Gas boiler AOGV 11.6.3 instructions. Heating systems for country and country houses

Review of gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Economy

The household gas heating boiler with a water circuit AOGV-11.6-3 Economy is designed for water heating of residential and office premises equipped with water heating systems (WHC).

The device runs on natural and liquefied gases. The manufacturing plant supplies devices with nozzles for natural gas. To operate on liquefied gas, it is necessary to replace the injectors for natural gas with injectors for liquefied gas.

These units can be installed in closed heating system with a membrane-type expansion tank. The pressure in the heating system in operating condition (at a water temperature in the heating system of 60 - 80 ° C) should be no more than 1.5 kgf/cm2.

A safety valve must be installed on the riser (outlet pipe), adjusted to operate at a pressure in the heating system of 1.8 ± 0.1 kgf/cm2. To control the pressure in the heating system, a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 0.4 kg/cm2 must be installed.

Rice. 1. Gas heating boiler AOGV-11.6 household Economy

1. Traction breaker; 2. Traction breaker door; 3. Casing; 4. Traction sensor; 5. Connection for installing a thermometer; 6. Thermal cylinder of the automation unit; 7. Door; 8. Traction sensor cable; 9. Coil; 10. Automation unit; 11. Gas tap; 12. Gas pipeline; 13. Igniter; 14. Thermocouple; 15. Shield; 16. Burner; 17.
Pipe for supplying water from CO; 18. Heat exchanger tank; 19. Turbulator; 20. Pipe for draining water into CO.

The device is made in the form of a cylindrical floor cabinet, the front side of which is closed with a door that provides access to put the device into operation and regulate heating modes.

Rice. 2. Boiler automation unit AOGV-11.6

1. Thermocouple union nut; 2. Start button; 3. Union nut for draft sensor; 4. Sealing washer; 5. Rod; 6. Adjustment nut; 7. Bushing;
8. Nut; 9. Screw.

The automation unit is an electromechanical device and consists of a block body, inside of which there are valves and a system of levers,
electromagnet, and serves to supply gas to the igniter and burner, regulate the water temperature and automatic shutdown gas supply at:

The igniter goes out.

Gas pressure in the network drops below the permissible level or gas supply stops;

Lack of draft in the chimney.

Draft breaker 1 (Fig. 1) is designed to automatically stabilize the vacuum value in the furnace of the apparatus, i.e. reducing the influence of fluctuations in the vacuum value in the chimney on the draft in the firebox of the apparatus. For successful operation, the draft breaker door 2 must rotate easily on its axis.

Automation gas boiler AOGV-11.6 water temperature control consists of a bellows-thermocylinder assembly 6 installed inside the apparatus tank and a system of levers with a valve located in the automation unit.

An adjusting nut 6 is attached to the block body (Fig. 2), by rotating which you can adjust the automation to a temperature from 50 °C to 90 °C. This temperature change is caused by the movement of the bellows together with rod 5 up (down) when the adjustment nut is rotated.

After heating the water to the temperature corresponding to the setting, the gas supply to the burner is automatically reduced and it switches to the “low fire” mode.

When the water temperature in the apparatus decreases (no more than 15 °C) as a result of heat extraction during heating or hot water, the gas supply to the burner automatically increases. The temperature of hot water in the hot water supply system during its intake should not exceed 60 °C.

The automatic traction system consists of a traction sensor 4 (Fig. 1) mounted on the tank lid and a cable 8 connecting the traction sensor to the magnetic box.

Fig.3. Ignition device of the boiler AOGV-11.6

1. Thermocouple; 2. Igniter

The ignition device (Fig. 3) is intended for attaching the igniter, thermocouple and igniting the main burner. The pilot flame should flow around the end of the thermocouple.

The safety of the gas boiler AOGV-11.6 is ensured by automation, which is triggered when:

The flame on the igniter goes out;

Lack of draft in the chimney;

Gas supply stops or gas pressure drops below the lower value.

In this case, the gas supply to the igniter and the main burner is automatically stopped.

Preparing the AOGV-11.6 boiler for operation

The room where the AOGV-11.6 boiler is installed must have free access to air from outside and ventilation hood near the ceiling and meet the requirements for the placement of thermal units intended for heating and hot water supply of single-family or
blocked residential buildings.

Installation of a boiler unit in a residential building is allowed only if there is a chimney with combustion products discharged from the device into it. The chimney must meet all requirements.

The chimney channel must have a “live” cross-section not less than the diameter of the connecting gas exhaust device of the apparatus, be strictly vertical, smooth, even, without turns or narrowings.

The outer surface of the chimney, located above the roof, must be plastered cement mortar. The part of the chimney located in the attic must be plastered and thermally insulated.

Below the point where the connecting pipe from the device is connected to the chimney, there must be a “pocket” in the chimney, at least 25 cm deep, with a hatch for cleaning. To ensure optimal operating vacuum in the chimney, we recommend that the chimney height be at least 5 meters.

The AOGV-11.6 boiler must be connected to the chimney using roofing steel pipes. The diameter of the pipes must be no less than the diameter of the device's draft breaker. The pipes must slide tightly into each other without gaps along the flow of combustion products by at least 0.5 of the pipe diameter.

The vertical section of the smoke exhaust pipe, located directly above the draft breaker, must have possible longer length, but not less than 0.5 m.

Laying connecting pipes through living rooms prohibited. It is necessary, if possible, to avoid long horizontal sections of the chimney pipe.

Total length horizontal sections of connecting pipes should be no more than 3 m. (B existing houses length allowed is no more than 6 m).

Pipe slope to the side gas appliance must be at least 0.01. Curvature radii should not be made smaller than the pipe diameter.

The AOGV-11.6 gas boiler is installed near fireproof walls at a distance of at least 15 cm from the wall. If the device is installed near a fire-resistant wall, its surface must be insulated with a steel sheet over an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick, protruding 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the housing.

There must be a 1 m wide passage in front of the unit. When installing the unit on wooden floor, the floor must be insulated with steel sheet over asbestos sheet 5 mm thick. The insulation should protrude 10 cm beyond the dimensions of the housing.

To improve the conditions of water circulation in the heating system, it is preferable to install the boiler as low as possible at the level of heating devices (radiators). The expansion tank is located at the highest point of the system. The heating system must be with overhead wiring.

Surface heating devices determined by calculation. To avoid high hydraulic resistance of the system, it is not recommended to underestimate the diameters of pipelines.

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OPERATION AND REPAIR OF BOILERS

Proterm Panther

The writing of this publication was prompted by a chain of events that forced me to try my hand at independently servicing a gas boiler. Let me note right away that this is not exactly an “exchange of best practices”, as it is usually presented, since some of the facts presented speak, on the contrary, about the initial complete inexperience of the user. But perhaps the information presented will help those who read it avoid such mistakes.

The fact is that with the seeming abundance of information on the Internet, I had to face the fact that there are no intelligible step by step instructions It’s not so easy to find - most often everything is limited to selective advice on forums. The factory instruction manual covers many problems rather dryly and does not provide much clarity, and some important aspects in general, it is practically omitted, which, in principle, led to the situation that will be discussed. So, what caused and how did you clean the gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3 with your own hands?

How it all began

B purchased own house we moved in in September 2002. The heating system was (and remains), but then it was organized according to the principle natural circulation. The boiler room is in a separate extension, equipped in accordance with all existing rules. An old cast iron boiler with gas burners was used as a heat generator, some, as I remember now, incredibly large sizes, also with “homemade” masonry from fireclay bricks inside. It was complete ruin: every month in our not-so-cold winters (Moldova, Transnistria) the meter added 800 cubic meters!

In a word, it was decided to carry out a replacement. We chose the AOGV-11.6-3-U, both for reasons of low cost and taking into account the weight good reviews about this model from friends. At the same time, it was installed circulation pump. The results were not long in coming - the next winter the house was much more comfortable, and the heat was distributed evenly throughout all rooms. And monthly gas consumption has dropped by more than three times! – we usually fit in 220 – 270 cubic meters.

Prices for gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3

gas boiler AOGV-11.6-3

To the credit of the manufacturers, it must be said right away that over the past 13 years there have been absolutely no problems with the operation of these purchased devices. Even in cold winter 2008-2009, when the next “gas war” was going on, and the pressure in the gas supply pipes was reduced to a critical minimum, the boiler coped with the task quite well - the house was not hot, and we were not in danger of freezing. To be honest, it was even strange for me to read on the forums that many people at home have a gas valve button permanently connected to them - no problems with the automation have simply appeared during the entire period of operation.

Inspector visits gas industry in our city they are held regularly. There have never been any particular complaints about the operation of the equipment. The only remark was the year before last - to replace the corrugated section of the chimney (before inserting into the main pipe) with one made of galvanized steel. The deficiency has been corrected.

This year the cold snap came a little early, and already at the beginning of October it was decided to start the boiler at the very minimum power. But a problem emerged - the igniter wick did not want to light up, and if it did, it was with such a tiny flame that it was barely visible. Naturally, such a torch did not provide heating for the thermocouple, and the automation did not work.

A similar situation (but on a smaller scale: the torch lit up immediately, but was weak) was observed a year earlier. The igniter nozzle was clearly clogged, and last year it helped that I (at my own risk) managed to spray this “jet” with a can of carburetor cleaning fluid through a long curved tube. After the liquid had evaporated, I tried to light it - everything worked, and last winter, throughout the entire heating season There were no more problems.

Last year we managed to do without any disassembly - the nozzle was cleared of such carburetor fluid

But this year, such a measure turned out to be insufficient - the effect was even the opposite. The igniter stopped lighting altogether.

I really didn’t want to completely remove the entire gas assembly with burners (and at that time I didn’t even know how accessible it was). I tried unscrewing the gas supply tube to the igniter from the magnetic valve block and blowing it out using a car pump. Useless. There is nothing to do - I had to think about how to remove the entire burner block in order to carry out mechanical cleaning ignition nozzles.

The boiler is, of course, tied up, the system is full. Access from below is minimal, since the boiler is still standing in a special pit. All this was very scary at first - how to dismantle the gas unit? Sound advice I didn’t find it, but I came across a hint on one of the forums - this node rotates about the central axis - the input gas pipe.

Since operations of any significant scale were not expected, I did not take photos at that stage. The operations shown below were carried out later, when the boiler was disassembled again. But the essence remains the same.

So, if you try to look at the boiler from below (for the initial examination of the “situation” I initially used a mirror placed underneath), something like this appears:

The burner block itself is mounted on the bottom cover. Arrow pos. Figure 1 shows the entrance of the gas supply pipe to the main burner. Pos. 2 is the input of the igniter and thermocouple tubes. And this entire assembly, in addition to the rigidity of the gas pipe, is held on the flange of the cylindrical casing of the boiler by three hooks. They are located along the edge of the bottom plate on the tops regular triangle. The blue arrow shows one of them, the one located slightly to the left of the ignition window.

The second hook is closer to the back of the boiler on the left (if you stand facing the ignition window).

The third is almost exactly under the automation unit, at the level of the vertical tubes going down to the pan.

Prices for gas boilers

a gas boiler

After a thorough inspection of the entire bottom part, I did not find any other fastening or fixing elements. This means that there must be grooves through which these protrusions can be removed from engagement with the casing flange. As a result, it turned out that there is only one groove, and it is located in the area of the third hook (as shown). To get to it, the pallet must be turned slightly clockwise. In the illustration, the direction of rotation is shown with a green arrow. By the way, the opening unpainted section of the casing is also clearly visible - you can see how the pan moves.
I figured out the principle of fastening. But in order to rotate the pan and remove the burner block, naturally, it is necessary to disconnect the gas pipe, igniter tube and thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit.
First of all, I checked again whether the gas supply from the home wiring was shut off.

Then he carefully unscrewed the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

1 – gas supply tube to the igniter torch. Key for 12.

2 – tube with thermocouple contact. Key for 12.

3 – gas supply pipe to the main burner. The key is 27.

The paronite gasket on the main gas pipe was removed. Checked it - excellent condition. On the flare tube, the gasket remained on the tee fitting, but it is also clear that it is not worn out and will still serve quite well.

After disassembling this unit, the pan turned quite easily, and through the groove closest to the tubes, the holder came out of engagement with the casing. Now, supporting the pallet from below, we slightly push it towards ourselves - and the other two holders also come out of engagement. We lower the entire assembly to the floor, and then carefully pull it out between the legs of the boiler.

The photo shows the removed pan, but I’ll make a reservation once again - the photos were taken later, during the secondary disassembly of the boiler. The first time the picture was much “cleaner”. Further, in the text it will be clear why so much attention is paid to this.

I checked the condition of the main burner - it was completely clean, without signs of any deformation. There were no complaints about her work.
Then he moved on to the “culprit” of this whole undertaking - the ignition torch nozzle. I unscrewed the two screws holding this assembly (wick plus thermocouple) in the assembled position. The screws, however, resisted at first, but after treatment with WD-40 they still worked. I removed the box-shaped casing from the pilot burner and got to the nozzle.

The brass nozzle itself was covered on top with a light white coating (like scale), and this was removed very quickly, without effort, with fine sandpaper. The nozzle itself, yes, was overgrown, barely “drawn” even visually. It’s also okay - I took a thin copper strand from the loose cable and cleaned the hole. To guarantee, I also blew it under pressure with a pump from the side connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit. All task completed!

At the same time, while there is free access, I very carefully cleaned the bend of the thermocouple tube with “zero” sandpaper: there was a very light layer of oxide there - it had accumulated during the summer period of inactivity.
I carefully reassembled all the components in the reverse order. I struggled a bit with reinstalling the pallet, but then I got the hang of it.

You must first progressively, without distortion, lift this entire block so that the burner goes inside the housing, and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not cling to the casing flange. Then, standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push this entire assembly towards you, give a slight downward tilt so that the opposite edge of the pan rises slightly (literally a couple of degrees!). Then, when moving the pallet forward, you should simultaneously put on two distant hooks so that they fit onto the casing flange. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut-out groove, and when it fits into it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The magnitude of this rotation will be visually indicated by the position of the pipes - the gas pipe will be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit, as it was during disassembly.

I installed all the tubes in place, having first checked the presence and correct fit of the gaskets. Tightened the nuts on the gas supply pipe and on the igniter tube with a wrench. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, I very carefully, literally barely touching it, cleaned the contact pads with a “null” pad. This nut, in accordance with the recommendations I read, was tightened not with a wrench, but by hand, using only finger force.
I checked the tightness of the connections - I brought a sponge from the kitchen with detergent, opened the gas supply, “washed” the joints of the gas pipes - everything is fine, there are no signs of leakage.
I tried to start the boiler. The wick lit up perfectly - with an even flame, “washing” the bend of the thermocouple. Literally after 15-20 seconds - it worked gas valve. I waited a couple of minutes, then turned on the gas supply to the main burner - it burned smoothly, without a pop. I experimented - I closed and opened the supply to the main burner several times: everything is fine - the wick burns evenly, does not go out, the burner ignites just as normally.

That's it, I set approximately the desired heating level, closed the flap on the ignition window, and left, full of pride for the job successfully done.

Little did I know then that my “adventures” were just beginning!

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Unexpected problem

For several days the operation of the boiler did not cause any complaints - it did not go out, the heating system worked well. However, about a week passed, and it seemed to me that a previously unusual smell appeared in the boiler room - it was not the smell of gas in its pure form, but rather the “aroma” of burnt gas. In addition, the impression began to emerge that, according to the feelings of those at home, there was a lack of warmth.

A couple of times the boiler went out at night - without any visible reasons. Well, then - more. About a week later, when I entered the boiler room, I saw an eerie picture - the burner flame was trying to “get out” through the ignition window covered with a shield. A fairly large section of the metal casing above the window was almost red-hot, the paint on it was completely burnt down to “pure” metal.

Naturally, the boiler was immediately extinguished. After it cooled down, I tried, as an experiment, to ignite it. The wick works fine, the automation also works well. But when the main burner is ignited, then, firstly, the flame has pronounced orange ends of the flames. And secondly, the “crown” of the flame is not directed completely upward, but also tends into the gap between the heat exchanger and the outer casing of the boiler.

I see - this is a clear sign the fact that inside the boiler the flow of hot gases encounters some kind of resistance, in a word - the channels are overgrown with soot. There is soot everywhere, even on the edge of the ignition window - I have never before gotten my hands dirty when igniting, but now black spots appear on my fingers, which, by the way, are very difficult to wash off even warm water with soap.

But the question remains unclear - why? After all, in so many years we have never encountered such a problem.

I went back to the forums to look for the reason. And on one of them I came across useful advice– this picture is characteristic of incomplete combustion of gas, without the supply of additional air. I began to understand more closely the design of my boiler, and discovered something that I simply had not paid attention to before. This is a clamp-shaped valve at the entrance of the gas pipe to the boiler, from below, right at the pan. There on the pipe there are two diametrically opposite holes, which are covered by this damper.

I ran to check: it’s true – the damper almost completely covers both holes. Poor knowledge of the “material parts” led to the fact that I completely did not pay attention to this nuance. And in the process of disassembling the burner block, apparently, he accidentally moved this damper to a position in which the air supply was blocked.

I tried to open these windows and ignite the boiler - yes, the flame immediately changed color and became more even. But the “crown”, naturally, still tends to the space between the casing and the heat exchanger, that is, the reason found does not save me from cleaning the boiler.

Cleaning the boiler

It is clear that to carry out cleaning I need to disassemble again - also dismantle the burner block, and plus, remove the top cover of the boiler.

I had to struggle a bit with removing the umbrella that goes into the metal part of the chimney. The fact is that the boiler room itself is made of brick, of the original type, installed on a foundation, and two pipes are built into it - from the boiler and, higher up, from the gas water heater.

I embedded the boiler pipe myself, did it in good time, and it “fits” very tightly. I had to make an effort to achieve a slight backlash. But in the end it worked - we managed to lift it enough to have enough clearance to remove the umbrella from the pipe. The picture that emerged was very colorful.

Deposits of soot are visible under the umbrella itself. And if you look at the umbrella from below, then on the hemispherical divider-condensate collector there is a soft, loose layer of soot about 10 millimeters thick.

To remove the top cover of the boiler, you must first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor. It is held on the lid by plates, which are screwed with two self-tapping screws (shown by blue arrows in the illustration above). But no matter how much I twisted these screws, they turned in place without moving upward even a millimeter. In the end, I gave up on the matter and decided to remove the cover along with the sensor. To do this, first use a 14mm wrench to unscrew the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.

I immediately checked the paronite gasket - it was “alive”, remained in place, and therefore decided not to disturb it.

Then, it would seem, everything is simple - the lid is fixed to the boiler casing with three self-tapping screws.

The self-tapping screw, which is located on the front side of the boiler, came out quite easily.

But the other two showed “fierce resistance.” They simply did not want to budge. Neither powerful screwdrivers, nor WD-40 treatment, nor tapping helped - they stood motionless.

In the end, the slots for the screwdriver began to “lick” - but still with the same zero result. There was only one way out - to cut off the heads of the screws with a grinder, fortunately, they were not made “under countersunk”.

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self-tapping screws

No problem - I cut it very carefully. Looking ahead, I will say that I subsequently replaced these mounts with roofing screws with a hexagon head - in case of future boiler cleaning. It holds even better, and unscrewing it won’t be a problem.

The lid fit tightly, and I even had to tap it a little from below - resting a wooden block against the lower edge. After that, she took off smoothly.

On back side The lids clearly show traces that remain due to improper passage of combustion products. They found their way between the heat exchanger and the boiler casing, then converging towards the central opening of the chimney.

Naturally, there is no need to talk about any efficiency of the boiler in such a situation - it rather heated the boiler room rather than giving off heat to the system. It is better to remain silent about the safety of such functioning.

The water heat exchanger of the boiler is covered with a lid on top. It is fixed and pressed tightly to it using special fasteners - metal wedges (they are shown in the illustration above with yellow arrows). These fasteners are very easy to remove.

I thought they were spring - nothing like that. These wedges are made of ordinary mild steel, and their antennae are bent in the same way as ordinary cotter pins. They are easily brought to the center, and then the wedge is removed from the slot.

In the same way, removed all the stoppers and then removed the cover. And I was horrified...

This small gap between the heat exchanger and the lid, in which gas flows from three channels must be combined into one central one to exit into the chimney, is tightly clogged with soot.

Now it is necessary to remove the gas flow turbulator inserts from the heat exchanger channels. They gave way up without much resistance when I picked them up with pliers.

The picture turned out even worse than I could have imagined - the layer of soot on the turbulator blades is impressively thick!

At the same time, I immediately look at the condition of these vertical cylindrical channels. The picture matches...

Naturally, even if we “bracket out” the draft problems, there is no question of any efficiency of the boiler operation with the heat exchanger so overgrown on the outside.

Next, I removed the boiler pan with the burner block - I have already described how this operation is performed above.

That's it, you can proceed directly to cleaning all nodes. For this operation, an ordinary plastic brush for bottles was purchased from a hardware store - it will be suitable for vertical channels. Tied it with duct tape wooden slats to go through the channels along their entire height.

I know that it’s a “classic” for home creativity is blue electrical tape, but I only had white :)

And to clean other parts and surfaces, I purchased a flat brush with soft brass bristles.

I start cleaning from the top plane of the heat exchanger - I clean and sweep down all the soot deposits. It turned out as shown in the illustration above.
Then I move on to cleaning the channels. The soot comes off the walls quite easily - it has not yet had time to “harden”. Characteristically, it is very oily.

After cleaning the boiler itself, I move on to the removed parts and assemblies. In order not to spread excess dirt in the boiler room, I move all this action to the yard.

The burner itself was clean this time too, except for the soot that attacked from above - it was easily brushed off. At the same time, I immediately lightly clean the thermocouple tube with a “zero” - it won’t hurt.

After completing the cleaning operation, I proceed to reassembling the boiler. First, I installed the burner block in place - this has already been described above. I immediately connected all the tubes, checked the gaskets and tightened the nuts.

And here I immediately focused my attention on the position of the air channel valve. When cleaning, I removed this clamp from the pipe (I don’t know why, though), but when reverse installation It turned out that it was made of mild steel and did not have any springing properties. After installation, it began to dangle and simply slide down. I had to make a small improvement - drill holes in the “ears”, and after putting the flap on, tighten it slightly with a long M5 screw. It turned out fine - now the clamp is securely held in the given position, but moving it is not difficult.

The illustration shows that the air holes are half open.

The next step is to put the turbulators in place.

Installation of turbulators is very simple, and it is simply impossible to make a mistake here - they are inserted into the channels and held in them due to the widening of the central metal plate located on top. I insert them so that this plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be located approximately tangential to the circle.

The next step is to replace the heat exchanger cover. The lugs for the clamps fit into the slots in the cover.

I insert metal cotter pins into the eyelet slots and lightly tap them from the back so that the lid fits as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. After that, I spread the antennae with pliers - that’s it, the lid is securely fastened.

Next, I replace the top cover of the boiler. The holes from the only self-tapping screw that came out normally help you to navigate with its correct position. In my case, the traction sensor was not removed - it is already in place, and all that remains is to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut.

I complete the assembly by installing the cap. I slide it under the pipe, put it on its socket (it fits very tightly), and then carefully put it in place. The three protrusions on the cap should fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler lid, and the cut out semicircular window will be placed above the passing temperature sensor tube.

Naturally, after this all connections were checked for leaks.
I move on to the long-awaited moment - starting the boiler. The wick lit up immediately, and within 15 seconds it worked magnetic valve. So far so good.

I open the gas supply - the burner ignites easily, the fire burns with an even crown, with the same height of the flames, and they do not look to the sides, but are directed clearly upward, which is what needed to be proven!

I tried to “play” with the air damper. As a result, I had to open it a little more - I achieved an even blue flame, practically without any admixtures of red or orange shades. The experimental shutdown and gas supply (simulation of boiler shutdowns and starts) was successful - the pilot flame is stable, and the burner lights up immediately and almost silently.

Two weeks have passed since then - there have been no complaints about the operation of the boiler! Winter is ahead, and I hope that the heating system will not give us any unpleasant surprises.

And for myself I decided the following:

Be more attentive to the details of any design - everything has its purpose, and ill-considered actions can lead to emergency situations.
The cleaning process has been mastered, it is not so complicated, so I will carry it out regularly - before the start of each heating season, at least for prevention.

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The author is aware that similar works, in general, should be carried out by appropriate specialists. Therefore, this article should not be regarded as a guide to action, but only as a narrative about what happened - about how one very small mistake, inattention, led to serious problems and demanded their urgent removal. I hope that the information received will be useful to someone.

In Russia and throughout the post-Soviet space, along with the old “Soviet” AGV heating boilers, they are widely used and have different reviews gas boilers or Zhukovsky. These devices run on gas, which is known to be the cheapest type of fuel today. Besides, AOGV boilers They are quite unpretentious and do not require any special conditions for their operation.

In this article we will try to understand AOGV boilers, what they are, consider the technical characteristics of non-volatile gas heating boilers AOGV-11.6, disadvantages, prices and draw up instructions for use.

AOGV what is it

Many of those who are puzzled by the purchase of an AOGV gas boiler may at first find this name of the boiler incomprehensible. It's actually simple.

AOGV is an abbreviation, its meaning is Gas Water Heating Apparatus. The number that appears after this abbreviation indicates the power of the gas boiler. For example, the decoding of the abbreviation AOGV-11.6 indicates that this gas heating device has a power of 11.6 kW, AOGV-17.4, respectively, 17.4 kW, etc.

Let's look at AOGV boilers using the example of popular boilers produced at the Zhukovsky plant, produced by ZhMZ.

Boilers AOGV-11.6-3 series Comfort, Universal and Economy

AOGV-11.6 boilers and their technical characteristics

Non-volatile gas boilers are designed for heating a private house, garage or other premises. Available only in floor-standing version. Household versions of gas boilers range from 11 to 29 kW of power. The main type of fuel for the AOGV boiler is natural gas.

Water is heated using a gas burner located under the heat exchanger tank at the bottom of the boiler. When replacing a gas burner, it is possible to use the boiler with liquefied gas. The boiler body and heat exchanger are made of steel. The heat exchanger for heating water has a tubular structure, which contributes to its fairly high efficiency.

The inlet and outlet fittings for connecting the coolant are located on the back of the boiler body. The diameter of these fittings is 40 mm or 1 1/2 inches. At the bottom is the “return”, at the top is the “direct”. Smoke channel is connected to the upper part of the AOGV boiler body, the chimney diameter must be at least 120 mm.

Boilers are produced as single-circuit and double-circuit: under the name AKGV-11.6-3. The latter are intended for both heating and hot water supply.

Boiler design AKGV-11.6

The structure of a double-circuit gas boiler is almost identical to a single-circuit one, only a steel coil for running utility water is additionally built into the heat exchanger. If you want to buy a double-circuit with good hot water performance, then you have to choose a device with a thermal power of at least 23 kW.

Double-circuit gas boilers AKGV with a power of 11 kW will give you 4-5 liters warm water in a minute. This, of course, is enough, for example, to wash your hands or dishes, but no more.

What is the difference between floor-standing gas boilers AOGV

So, in everyday life the most common heating boilers are AOGV-11.6-3 of the Economy and Universal series. The main difference between these series is the types of automation installed on the boilers.

Gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 Economy have domestic automation. The operation of this boiler is controlled using the thermostat knob and solenoid valve, to which the draft sensor and thermocouple are connected.

Boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Economy

Thermocouple for gas boiler AOGV

The thermocouple is an important element of the automation of the AOGV gas boiler. It is made of copper, shaped like a thick rod. Serves to control the presence of flame on the igniter. If the draft level decreases, the draft sensor is activated and the solenoid valve shuts off the gas supply.

Automation of boiler AOGV-11.6-3 series Economy

Boilers AOGV-11.6 of the Universal series are equipped with Italian Sit automatic equipment. This device has an automatic thermostat and piezo ignition. The boiler starts at the touch of a button. At the same time, there is absolutely no dependence on electricity.

Boiler AOGV-11.6-3 Universal with automatic Sit

Boilers AOGV and AKGV of the Comfort series are equipped with American Honeywell automation, which also has a built-in piezoelectric element, but a slightly different design.

Advantages of AOGV-11.6-3 boilers

— ability to work in systems with natural and forced circulation

— compatible with any material from which the heating system is made (steel, cast iron, polypropylene, metal-plastic)

— energy independence

— ability to work on natural and liquefied gas

Disadvantages of AOGV boilers

- outdated automation on Economy series boilers

- it is difficult to find spare parts if they need to be replaced in case of malfunction

- quite high price compared to

Boilers AOGV-11.6: product price

Today, the purchase of a single-circuit gas boiler of the Economy series will cost 11-12 thousand rubles, the Universal series 13-14 thousand. The price is as of September 2014.

In this article we have compiled instructions for boilers AOGV-11.6-3, analyzed the principle of operation, the main advantages and disadvantages, as well as technical characteristics and prices. And finally, let's see short video review.

In the territory Russian Federation and other post-Soviet countries, old water heating units are known. Along with them, models such as the AOGV 11 6 boiler are widely used - devices produced by factories in Zhukovsky and Rostov. The device runs on natural gas - the cheapest modern fuel. The boiler is unpretentious in terms of operation and maintenance.

Fuel for this unit is cheap

Features of AOGV

The abbreviation AOGV simply stands for gas-fired water heating apparatus. The number after the letters indicates the power of the model, that is, the AOGV 116 boiler is an 11.6 kW unit, respectively.

The technical characteristics of AOGV 11 6 3 indicate that the boiler is intended for heating a private residential house, garage or small utility room. The model is presented only in a floor-standing version; household units have a power ranging from 11-29 kW. The fuel used to operate the device is natural gas.

At the bottom of the boiler there is a heat exchanger, under it there is gas-burner. This is what heats the water. The unit can be converted for the use of liquefied gas. Steel is used to make the device body High Quality. The heat exchanger is made of tubes, which provides high coefficient useful action devices.

In this video you will learn how to light a boiler AOGV 11.5

On the back there are two fittings for inlet and outlet. The top one works with a straight line, the bottom one with a reverse line. Top part the housing is attached to the chimney, its diameter must exceed 12 cm. Manufacturers produce two types of boilers - single- and double-circuit boilers. The latter are intended not only for heating, but also for heating water.

Distinctive characteristics of boilers

The Universal and Economy model boilers are especially popular among buyers. There are significant differences in the technical characteristics of AOGV 116 of these series. The Economy version is manufactured using Russian automation; this unit can be controlled using a solenoid valve and a temperature control knob. A draft sensor and a thermocouple are connected to them - one of the most important elements of the device.

The part looks like a thick rod made of copper. It is necessary to control the fire on the igniter. When the draft level decreases, the sensor is triggered, and the valve must shut off the natural gas supply at this time.

Boiler AOGV 11.6 series The station wagon is produced on the basis of Italian automatics. The unit is distinguished by the presence of an automatic thermostat and piezo ignition. The device can be turned on by pressing just one button, and there is no connection to electricity networks.

There is another series of units - Comfort, it is equipped with American parts. These models also have a built-in piezo ignition, but it has a different design.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among all the characteristics of the AOGV 11.6 boiler, its main advantages and disadvantages are highlighted. There are several main advantages:

the possibility of using natural and liquefied gas as fuel;
energy independence;
compatibility with any system material;
uninterrupted operation with natural and forced circulation.

The unit can be connected to any heating system. It can be made of cast iron, metal-plastic, polypropylene or steel. That is why such boilers are considered universal. There are also some disadvantages of the devices:

the Economy series is made using outdated parts;
in the event of a breakdown, it is difficult for craftsmen to find suitable parts;
Compared to other units, this version has a fairly high price.

Since Economy boilers are produced using elements made according to samples of Soviet engineers, they are very difficult to replace during repairs. It's better not to buy the most cheap options , but opt for the Universal. Although, in the case of purchasing models with imported parts, difficulties also arise, since they are not available on the domestic market. You will have to order replacements for damaged elements directly from the manufacturer. average cost boilers costs 11-17 thousand rubles, which significantly exceeds the price of units from other manufacturers.