Dahlias are perennial. Perennial dahlias: planting and care Bush perennial dahlias
In colloquial Russian the flower is called “dahlia” (masculine), but in more scientific circles the feminine “dahlia” has taken root.
Chichipatl, acocotle, cocoxochitl - this is what the Mexican Indians called the dahlia. When translated into Spanish, it means "flower with a hollow stem" and also " water pipe" It is believed that the Indians used the plant to install a water supply system, for example, to bring water from a distant source to a more convenient place.
Of course, you can’t make a water pipe from the dahlias that we see in our gardens. But if you remember that the height of some wild species reaches 6 m and their stems are thicker, the statement becomes similar to the truth.
Dahlias were first brought from Mexico to Madrid by traders in 1784. They hoped to surprise the Spanish king with a new... vegetable. The fact is that the Mexican Indians ate the underground part of this plant as potatoes. It contains a substance similar to starch. But the monarch did not like the new “vegetable”, but he was delighted with the flowering. Since then, dahlias have been grown in palace gardens.
The dahlia came to Russia at the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries and quickly became fashionable. It is known that more than 200 varieties were presented at the autumn exhibition in 1844!
Classification of dahlias
More than 15 thousand varieties of dahlia are already known and new ones are constantly appearing.
To make it easier to navigate such diversity, they are divided into sections (groups), most often taking into account the characteristics of the inflorescences: structure, size, doubleness, shape of reed flowers, etc.
The classification has undergone a number of changes over the years and has become a little more complex, even confusing. Long-time fans of dahlias, out of habit, use the old version, because it is this one that is presented in carefully preserved books on floriculture and in some magazines. But you can learn something interesting by reading the modern classification.
Habitual classification includes the following groups of dahlias: non-double, collared, anemone-shaped, peony-shaped, decorative, spherical, pompom, mixed, cactus and semi-cactus.
In one of the new versions, non-double ones are called single-row, or simple.
The cactus group is sometimes divided into straight cacti and cacti with curved petals. Even nymphaeal and orchid dahlias appeared.
There is a classification of dahlias based on color. The key feature is the color that predominates on the front side of the reed flowers. Coloring back side usually not taken into account. An exception is made only for certain groups of dahlias, for example, pompon ones.
According to the American classification, there are two subgroups in the group of single-row, or simple, dahlias: Single and Mignon Single. The only difference between them is the size of the inflorescences (minions are smaller).
Now let's talk about all this diversity in a little more detail.
Single row, or simple (Single)
The inflorescences of dahlias in this group are flat, with one outer ring of marginal reed flowers that frame a well-defined central disc of tubular flowers. “Petals”, or rather reed flowers, with rounded or pointed ends. The diameter of the inflorescence is about 10 cm, and the height of the plants is on average up to half a meter. Simple, but cute, elegant and almost problem-free, so single-row dahlias have countless fans!
The varieties are well known to lovers of the simplest dahlias. This is snow white Anna-Karina(Anna-Karina),
orange with a slight hint of pink Happy Kiss(Happy Kiss)
Dahlia Happy Kiss
bright red variety Romeo(Romeo) 
dahlia Romeo
dark purple Dark Desire(Dark Desire). 
dahlia Dark Desire
Anemone
An inflorescence with one or several outer rings of marginal flowers, and in the central part the “petals” are shortened and tightly collected, their tips are often dissected. Dahlias from this group really resemble anemones and look very elegant!
What varieties of dahlias do you prefer? The question is complex, rely on your taste. You might like Boogie Woogie(Boogie Woogie) and Honey(Honey) with bright yellow-pink inflorescences. 
dahlia Boogie Woogie 
Dahlia Honey
Charming in creamy pink tones Lambada(Lambada) and also Mambo(Mambo). The latter variety has pink lower “petals”, and the lush center of the inflorescence is yellowish-pink. 
dahlia Lambada 
Dahlia Mambo
Spectacular plum-red will not go unnoticed in the flower garden. Purple Puff(Purple Puff). 
Dahlia Purple Puff
Pay attention to other shades, in light color scheme. For example, on white and yellow Paso Doble(Paso Doble) and Toto(Toto). 
The dahlia variety Polka looks unusual. It is creamy yellow, with white reed flowers with a thin crimson border and strokes. 
Dahlia Polka
Collar or Cuff (Collerette)
The outer row of large “petals” in varieties of this group, closer to the center, is edged with smaller, thinner and almost always contrasting in color. The center of tubular flowers is clearly defined and seems to be framed by an openwork collar.
Two rows of elegant white and soft crimson “petals” with a subtle lilac tint against the background of bright yellow stamens make it easy to recognize Alpen Mary Lloyd(Alpen Mary Lloyd). 
Dahlia Alpen Mary Lloyd
U La Gioconda(La Gioconda) the outer circle of the inflorescence is made up of large dark red reed flowers, the inner circle is made up of small asymmetrical ones with a very light cream color. 
dahlia La Gioconda
Night Butterfly(Night Butterfly) is similar to the previous variety, but the “collar” of this dahlia is white and pink. 
dahlia Night Butterfly
One of the most popular varieties- raspberry-lilac with white tips Impression Fabula(Impression Fabula). 
dahlia Impression Fabula
A worthy competitor - bright, memorable Fashion Monger(Fashion Monger) in creamy white and red-raspberry tones. 
dahlia Fashion Monger
Nymphaeaceae, or Lotus (Water-lily)
The name of the group sounds very tempting, and for good reason, because the dahlia varieties included in it are considered one of the most beautiful. The comparison with the queens of quiet pools is not accidental; the blossoming inflorescences have wide, strongly curved, slightly curved or completely flat “petals”. The center is tightly closed by three inner rows of reed flowers. The diameter of double inflorescences is 15-20 cm, and sometimes this is not the limit.
Without exception, all nymphal dahlias are beauties! They are planted in the front corners of the garden and grown for cutting.
When choosing a variety, focus primarily on color.
Lovers of romantic colors will certainly add this variety to their collection. Seduction(Seduction). From a distance, the inflorescence appears purple, but it’s worth taking a closer look to understand that the main background is white, thickly covered with a purple coating, and along the edge of each “petal” there is a thin purple edging. 
In the photo - dahlia Seduction
Moray Susan(Moray Susan) pink-red, 
Dahlia Moray Susan
Kens Flame(Ken's Flame) and Pat Howden(Pat Howden) orange-yellow, 
Dahlia Ken's Flame
Cream Beauty(Cream Beauty) creamy white, 
dahlia Cream Beauty
Jerry Hoek(Gerrie Hoek) soft pink with lemon yellow visible at the base of the petals. 
dahlia Gerrie Hoek
Enchantress Siberia(Siberia) - almost like a real nymph, snow-white, with a light creamy tint in the center. 
dahlia Siberia
Decorative
These large beauties are all terry, consisting of well-developed flat and wide, sometimes wavy or slightly deformed “petals”. They are of the same length, slightly curving towards the edge of the inflorescence. Some varieties from this group are easily confused with nymphaeums.
The height of plants is usually 0.9-1.5 m, but two-meter ones are also found. Suitable for group plantings and for cutting.
The colors of the varieties are very diverse.
Karma Siren(Karma Serena) white with a greenish center, 
Karma Serena
Zorro(Zorro) bright red,
Barbarossa(Barbarossa) intense crimson red, 
Barbarossa
Bonaventure(Bonaventura) bright yellow. 
Bonaventura
The dahlia will demonstrate your refined taste Vancouver(Vancouver) with purple “petals” edged with white. 
Vancouver
Do you want something completely unusual? Try to find a variety on sale Arabian Knight(Arabian Night), in which black and bright scarlet merge, so the inflorescence in certain lighting appears almost black, like Arabian night!
Arabian Night
Several bushes of the variety Procyon(Prosuon) will turn the corner where you plant it into bright decorations a la the Brazilian carnival, because gorgeous inflorescences This dalia is made up of many yellow “tongues” with red tips. 
Procyon
Orange-yellow will create a similar mood Motto(Motto) and red-yellow Caballero(Caballero). 
Motto 
Caballero
Do you prefer calm colors? Place it in your garden Blue Boy(Blue Boy). Of course, this variety is not blue, rather lilac with a bluish tint, but no less impressive for that. 
Blue Boy
A dahlia with truly French charm will look good next to it Jean-Marie(Jean-Marie) with soft lilac oblong “petals”, at the tips of which there are milky white “drops”. 
Jean-Marie
Lavender-pink will also organically fit into this company. Lavender Perfection(Lavender Perfection). 
Lavender Perfection
Ball and Pompon
The dahlias included in this section delight summer residents and city dwellers with fully double inflorescences of a spherical, slightly flattened shape. “Petals” with rounded tips, as if half twisted into a tube.
Pompon dalias have inflorescences with a diameter of up to 6-7 cm, while spherical ones are much larger, up to 10-16 cm. At the same time, quite high bush(about 1 m) can bloom up to 25 pieces. Funny “balls” and “pompoms” last a long time in bouquets!
Pom pom and spherical dahlias look great together, so varieties can be combined. The main thing is that they harmonize in color. Choose a main variety and then provide it with a “support group”.
Take a closer look at the peach dahlia with a burgundy center Vine Eyed Jill(Wine Eyed Jill) 
Wine Eyed Jill
deep dark purple Rocco(Rocco) 
Rocco
deep lilac variety Franz Kafka(Franz Kafka) 
Franz Kafka
golden yellow Golden Scepter(Golden Scepter). 
Golden Scepter
Very effective Marble Ball l (Marble Ball) with a marble pattern of snow-white and plum-purple lines and strokes. 
Marble Ball
Or maybe bet completely light shades? There are also quite a few of these, for example, white with a hint of lemon in the depths between the “petals” Snowflake(Snowflake) 
Snowflake
milky white with pale lilac peeking through Evelyn(Eveline). 
Eveline
There are other almost or completely white varieties: Boom Boom White(Boom Boom White) Petra's Wedding(Petra’s Wedding). 
Boom Boom White 
Petra's Wedding
Cactus, or Needle (Cactus), Semi-Cactus
Large double inflorescences of cactus dalia consist of elongated pointed “petals” rolled into narrow tubes, almost needles.
In semi-cacti (they are also double), the reed flowers are wider at the base and are rolled into a tube only half or a third of the way. This group can be called transitional between cactus and decorative dahlias.
Ordinary summer residents do not need such a division, so we will tell you about them all at once, presenting you with several interesting varieties.
Beautiful and unusual Hayley Jane(Hayley Jane) The milky-white, needle-shaped “petals” at the base become pastel yellow closer to the middle, and the tips are contrastingly colored lilac. 
Hayley Jane
Dahlia variety Alauna Claire Obscurus(Alauna Clair Obscur) will attract you with its noble burgundy color with a plum tint. Another “trick” of this variety is the white tips of the dissected reed flowers! 
Alauna Clair Obscur
Tsuki-Yori-No-Shisha(Tsuki-Yori-No-Shisha) will make you doubt whether this is a white chrysanthemum or an aster with a special “shaggy” quality, because according to one of the overly confusing classifications this variety is considered fringed. 
Tsuki-Yori-No-Shisha
Dalia can be called unusual, even bizarre Hollyhill Slider Woman(Hollyhill Spider Woman) with long and thin petals that curl in different directions and resemble the legs of a spider. 
Hollyhill Spider Woman
Simpler cactus dahlias with a monochromatic color are also good. Due to this, the inflorescences look very graphic both against the backdrop of garden greenery and in bouquets.
It's white and surprisingly tender Mai Love(My Love)
deep yellow Kennemerland(Kennemerland) 
Kennemerland
yellow-orange, one might say radiant Gold Crown(Gold Crown) 
Gold Crown
starfish-like pastel yellow Shooting Star(Shooting Star) 
Shooting Star
noble dark red Chat Noir(Chat Noir). 
Chat Noir
Other subgroups
As a rule, dahlias, which for a number of reasons did not fall into the main, easily recognizable sections, are combined into another complex in composition. These are different, or mixed (Novelty), dahlias.
The company in the group was diverse. Terry, semi-double and non-double, single-color, two-color and variegated. There are even star-shaped and orchid-shaped subgroups. It is quite possible that you will find your favorite dahlia right here!
(Article based on materials from Gardener's World magazine)
Every year, more and more new varieties of dahlias go on sale, but not all of them are worthy of attention. On my site, I grow only those samples that have proven themselves over many years in order to select, preserve and distribute the most the best varieties. My collection includes many varieties of old Soviet, Russian, European, Dutch selection and some especially worthy new items.
1. Tie up dahlias
It is advisable to tie up all the dahlias, otherwise gusts of wind easily bend tall plants: the stems and flower stalks are broken, and the bush may die. Therefore, dahlias must be tied up immediately upon planting.
2. Remove faded flower stalks
Fading inflorescences must be removed, because seeds have already set in them, they have been pollinated and take over the nutrition of the tubers (after all, the efforts of parents are primarily aimed at raising and raising offspring). Therefore, the flower stalks are removed so that the tubers spend less energy on fully ripening the seeds. If we want the tuber to grow larger, we need to reduce the number of inflorescences on the bush so that the tuber has a larger supply of nutrients. In addition, cutting stimulates the growth of new inflorescences, thus we extend the flowering period and increase the number of flowers.
Red varieties of dahlias
Red varieties of dahlias from my collection include: Veltmeister with needle-shaped petals, Volcano , spherical Zorro . Babylon Red And Spartacus They are distinguished by a lush cap of inflorescences. Interesting among the red varieties are fringed Kenora Macob , Paul Robson with dancing petals. Conventionally, varieties with red inflorescences, but with a contrasting border along the edge, can be classified as red: Caballero , Maksim , Manhattan .
Vulcan
An old variety, one of the most interesting among red dahlias. Externally, the variety is similar to Veltmeister, but at the same time it has advantageous differences: it produces strong long peduncles, is very resistant to disease, strong, healthy, suitable for cutting. I have an interesting story connected with Vulcan. There lived in Moscow a breeder known throughout the Soviet Union. Somehow the Vulcan variety disappeared from him, and he asked me to send him this variety to renew the collection. I was flattered by his request and proud that I managed to keep this variety in my possession.
Manhattan Island
A new Dutch variety from the group of decorative dahlias. The plant is medium-sized, up to 90 cm, with flowers from 15 to 20 cm. The color of the pointed petals is bright red with yellow tips.
Babylon Purpur
Dutch tall decorative variety. Translated, the name of the variety sounds like “Babylon Purple.” The flowers are large, lush, slightly curled, looking like purple caps.
Babylon Red
Continuation of the “Babylon” series in red design. Large inflorescences like sunflowers can reach up to 30 cm in diameter if the plant is well fed.
Needle varieties of dahlias
Needle dahlias, or cactus dahlias, are an original variety with an unusual pointed shape of petals, dissected at the tips. The inflorescences are quite large, double, even “disheveled” and slightly “disheveled”; the plants themselves are tall. Examples of cactus varieties include bright Exotic , red Veltmeister And Volcano , spectacular Kenora Macob , unusual Paul Robson , ornate Tsuki Yori , spectacular Shooting Star , impressive Ambition .
Exotic
Exotic refers to tall needle-shaped dahlias. They are distinguished by the unusual shape of the petals: they are long, narrow, sharp, as if rolled into a tube. Exotica's flower is not large, but beautiful: white with crimson tips, it looks very decorative in a bouquet, there are 5 pieces in a vase - just lovely. I loved him from the moment I first saw him at the exhibition. In honor of this variety, which amazed us so much, we named it, which is led by.
Veltmeister
Also refers to tall, needle-shaped varieties. Weltmeiter's inflorescences are quite large and bright red. This variety is old, but one of the best, although it is rather capricious: the tuber does not preserve well in winter. Veltmeister immediately produces long peduncles, so it is very convenient for cutting, which is what it is famous for. I met him more than 30 years ago, when enthusiasts were selling cuttings at the central market. I was lucky - I managed to grow and preserve the variety.
Paul Robson
The chrysanthemum-shaped variety with double inflorescences and dark red velvety petals also has an unusual shape. The old variety is named after an African-American singer who had an enveloping bass voice and sang the song “Wide is my native country” in Russian.
Kenora Macob
The completely unusual shape of the lacy dissected petals gives this American cactus variety a special value. Dark cherry petals, whimsically twisting in the inflorescence, seem to be dancing to exotic motifs. Tall, up to 130 cm, the bush differs from others in the structure and color of the buds. Looks impressive even in single plantings.
Shooting Star
A tall variety with abundant flowering belongs to the group of cactus (needle-shaped) dahlias. Large lemon-colored flowers with a lilac-pinkish tint along the edges. The petals, pointed towards the end, make the variety look like a chrysanthemum.
Tsuki Yori
One of the most spectacular dahlias with a fringed dancing edge. The white, lush, extravagant caps of this tall variety with dense double flowers make Tsuki Yori the center of any composition. Petals weird shape more reminiscent of seaweed, set in motion by the gentle play of waves.
Ambition
The medium-sized Dutch variety looks impressive thanks to the dissected shape of bright crimson flowers. The richly colored needle petals make this variety a favorite among other bushes.
Nenekazi
A tall decorative variety, bred in the late 90s. It is distinguished by its unusual color and shape of the inflorescences: pink-yellow petals, fluffed at the very tips, give the flower a special splendor and airiness.
Snowy Rus'
A cactus-like variety of Soviet selection with snow-white, wedding-style inflorescences. One of the few included in the State Register as a variety suitable and recommended for cultivation in the country. The flower caps are so large and heavy that they often break when exposed to wind or rain. Always keep an eye on it, tie it up and cut off the fabulous flowers on time.
Globular varieties of dahlias
Among the interesting spherical varieties in my collection you can highlight the red variety Spartacus , Lady Darlene , Tartan , Zorro etc. The variety that stands out the most in this group of dahlias is Pagoda , having an impeccable ball shape, no matter which way you look at it.
Spartacus
A very decorative variety, distinguished by its original spherical shape and large inflorescence size. The slight corrugation of the petals gives the variety a special value. Do not confuse this variety with another similar in name - Spartak, this is a separate variety.
Tartan
Tall decorative variety. It appeared in my collection about 30 years ago from Moscow breeders. Blooms early, good for cutting, one of the most colorful and attractive varieties. The only drawback is that the tips of the petals burn in the sun.
Lady Darlene
The tall decorative variety amazes with its bright yellow-raspberry color and lush spherical shape of the inflorescences. The petals are slightly wavy and attract the eye with a “delicious” combination of colors.
Zorro
Belongs to the group of decorative dahlias; it grows more than 1 m in height and has large flowers, up to 25 cm. Terry inflorescences of a juicy wine-red color look truly luxurious and will decorate the garden in single and mixed plantings, and a bouquet of such dahlias will not leave any obstinate beauty indifferent!
Pagoda
An unusual, powerful, tall variety with large inflorescences. smart White flower has an impeccable spherical shape and looks equally decorative from all sides: back, front, side, top and bottom.
Kelvin Floodlight
Large-flowered, spherical lemon-yellow variety with long flowering. The terry lush bud reaches up to 30 cm in diameter.
Fleurel
The variety is notable for its incredible size of spherical inflorescences. Numerous snow-white curled petals form a heavy, elegant hat, so the dahlia must be tied up and the buds taken care of.
Beautiful varieties of dahlias
To the very beautiful varieties Dahlias include decorative double varieties, which are distinguished by the original color of the petals and the shape of the inflorescences. The varieties in my collection are particularly decorative Exotic , Spartacus , Tartan , Nenekazi , Lady Darlene , Bristol stripe , Kids Climax , white lush Snowy Rus', spherical Pagoda and etc.
Bristol Stripe
In Russian style, I call this variety Bristol strip. Decorative variety, tall, with large flowers. The petals seem to have visible veins and stripes that differ in color from the main color. You need to carefully monitor this variety: flowers can cross-pollinate, change color and lose their decorative effect. The petals themselves are pinkish-purple and gently curl and look very playful.
Thomas A. Edison
Decorative frost-resistant unpretentious variety, known since 1929. Has a long abundant flowering from July to October. It reaches a height of 130 cm. The pleasant purple color of the petals creates an effective contrasting spot in flower arrangements.
Kids Climax (Kidd's Climax)
An ornamental New Zealand variety bred in 1940. Lush large inflorescences with delicate yellow-lilac leaves with a bluish tint and slightly curled petals. The plant reaches 110-120 cm in height.
My dream
The flowers of the variety are very delicate, do not stand out with lush caps of inflorescences and bright saturated color, but attract the eye with delicate lilac petals, onto which it seems as if an artist has applied dark purple strokes with a brush. The tips of the petals curl slightly outward, as if reaching out to the hands, which is why the flower looks open and friendly.
Caballero
The bright circus color immediately distinguishes this variety from many others. The glowing red-orange petals look festive. The flowers look good cut, last a long time in a vase and remain fresh.
Color options for the variety Caballero may differ slightly.
Maxime
Decorative Dutch variety, relatively new, with bright but small (10-15 cm) flowers. Externally, the variety is very similar to Caballero. The same ceremonial red-orange color of the leaves with a sunny border along the edge makes them the center of everyone's attention. The inflorescences, like bright lights, glow both in the flowerbed and in the bouquet.
Rebecca, Rebecca's World
A spectacular variety with variegated contrasting crimson-white petals. In this case, the color of the inflorescences may differ. The petals are either purple with a white border, or white with dark red tips. Thanks to this contrasting combination, when white sugar petals imperceptibly turn into dark raspberry jelly, the variety looks very decorative and elegant.
Festival
Decorative medium-sized variety up to 90 cm high. Valued for the special delicacy of the color of the inflorescences. The petals, pale lemon in the center, gradually acquire a pinkish-lilac hue towards the edges.
Vancouver
A chrysanthemum-shaped, medium-growing Dutch variety, known since the late 90s. The dark purple petals have a delicate cream border that adds playfulness to the lush inflorescences.
Le Baron
Decorative medium-growing Dutch variety. The lush caps of the inflorescences are richly colored lilac. Delicate petals are slightly curled into tubes, which creates a 3D effect, which is why the inflorescences look like a contrasting spot and place the right accents in any compositions and hedges.
Motto
An ornamental Dutch variety with a plant height of up to 100 cm and a flower size of 15-20 cm. The rainbow-colored inflorescences lift your spirits even on the cloudiest day. Yellow-orange petals, slightly curling at the edge, look perky and playful.
Babylon Bronze
Another variety from the Babylon series. Dense inflorescences with orange petals that look like flames will warm you up on cool evenings.
Edinburgh
Decorative tall variety, bred in the middle of the last century in Great Britain. Withstands low temperatures, blooms until late autumn. The purple petals at the tips are painted pure white, as if they had been carefully dipped in white paint. The inflorescences are collected in voluminous balls. Edinburgh planted along the fence will serve as an incredibly beautiful hedge.
Vladimir Mazurin, amateur florist
General description Types Planting Care
general description
General description:
Dahlia is a perennial plant with tuberous thickened roots (root tubers) from the Asteraceae family. Its tall, erect stems (depending on the variety from 30 to 280 cm), branching from the base or middle, are hollow and woody at the base. The leaves are opposite, large, dissected. The inflorescence is a basket consisting of a large number of tubular flowers in the center and ligulate flowers at the edges. Nowadays there are more than fifteen thousand varieties of dahlias. Breeding of this crop is aimed at developing stable, viable varieties. They differ from one another in the size and structure of the inflorescences, the color and shape of the reed flowers (petals), and the color of the leaves.
Kinds
To facilitate the work of gardeners and breeders, an international classification of dahlias was adopted in Brussels in 1962. According to this classification, all varieties of dahlias are divided into several groups or classes: non-double, anemone-shaped, collar-shaped, peony-shaped, decorative, spherical, pompom-shaped, cactus, semi-cactus, chrysanthemum-shaped, orchid-shaped, nymphal and mixed.
Dahlias that feel so comfortable in our flower beds and decorate our front gardens continuous flowering for almost three months, grow wild in the mountains of Mexico and Guatemala. It was from there that at the very end of the 18th century they came to Europe, where they received two names - dahlia and dahlia. The plant was named dalia in honor of the famous Swedish botanist A. Dahl, and dahlia - in honor of the professor of the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences Johann Gottlieb Georg. The name “dahlia” was established only in Russia, where these plants appeared in the middle of the 19th century, and firmly became part of the Russian language, and in Ukraine the name “georgina” is consonant with it. According to the international nomenclature - only “dalia”.
Today, dahlias are one of the most common and favorite ground flowers, which have no equal in the variety of colors, shapes and sizes of inflorescences, as well as the duration of flowering. Among lovers of this relatively young culture, which is a little over two hundred years old, there is an opinion: if dahlias were given a scent, they could compete with roses. Although this statement is not entirely correct: the plant has a specific “dahlia” aroma, and the root tubers contain a very valuable substance - the polysaccharide inulin, which is widely used in medicine in the treatment of patients with diabetes.
Good to know:
Selection of planting material
Flower growers usually sell dahlia planting material in the spring - divisions with awakened buds or rooted cuttings. The situation is different with dahlia root tubers - they are sold in many flower companies in special packaging. Root tubers begin to be sold in winter, when the buds of renewed growth are at rest. When choosing a tuber, pay attention not only to its size. The buds of renewed growth are often located not on the tuber itself, but on the thinned part of the stem - the root collar. So it should be dense, not rotten and not overdried. You need to see whether the tubers and the rest of the stem form a single whole or hang on “thin threads”. Even if the tubers are very large, but hang, it is better not to buy them. In this case, the buds are unlikely to hatch in the spring. Don't be upset if the flower that blooms in your flower bed looks a little different or completely different from the one on the colorful packaging. Believe me, sometimes pleasant surprises happen. When choosing dahlia varieties for your garden, you should take into account the biological characteristics of these plants, as well as the fact that there are tall varieties (100-120 cm), medium-sized varieties (40-50 cm) and small varieties (20-35 cm). For those who are going to grow this crop for the first time, we recommend planting varieties that have a high ability to vegetative propagation, resistant to diseases and pests, with tubers that are shelf-stable during winter storage. Among them are bright red Adjutant, dark cherry General Vitruk, dark burgundy with white tips of the petals Edinburgh, dark purple with white Tartan, red with white tips of the petals Friculet, pale pink - Severina, white with lilac tips of the petals Evelyn, light -pink - Sudarushka, hot pink Harry Hawk, lilac - Barbara, among white varieties - Zhuravushka, Pagoda, Perla, Lancress, etc. These varieties have stood the test of time, they will not disappoint you and will not let you down.
Perhaps the most important thing is to find the optimal place to store dahlias in winter. Over time, every gardener acquires personal experience working with this crop and, of course, everyone has their own favorite varieties, their own preferences. Selecting a site and preparing the soil When choosing a place for planting, you should take into account some features of the plant: dahlias are very thermophilic, they are damaged even by short-term frosts, fragile herbaceous stems need to be tied to stakes, and in dry periods they need good watering. Therefore, for planting, a flat place with the most suitable microclimate is chosen: the area should be protected from northern winds or have a slight slope to the south or southeast. Lowlands are not suitable for growing dahlias: cold air stagnates in them and the first frosts occur much earlier than at higher elevations (even slight ones). Dahlias do not grow well near large trees, in shady places with poor air circulation. In such conditions, dahlias bloom poorly, elongate excessively and form weak, poorly preserved tubers. The soil in the area intended for planting dahlias must be structured, moisture-absorbing and at the same time breathable.
Soil structure can be improved by adding organic matter: rotted humus, compost, peat. On sandy soils Peat and clay taken from the upper layers of the soil can be added to the lower layers. Dahlias prefer slightly acidic and neutral soils. Loamy and heavy clay soils are dug up and fertilized in the fall, and light soils in the spring. Two to three weeks before planting the dahlia, the area must be dug up again.
Landing
Landing:
On heavy soils, ridges 15-20 cm high are made, and on light and sandy loam soils, dahlias are planted on flat areas. Dahlias are placed on the site so that during full development they do not crowd each other and that each bush has access to care for the plant. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the varieties: each plant must be harmoniously combined with its neighbors. Thus, root tubers of dwarf varieties are planted in a row at a distance of 50 cm, medium-sized ones - 60-70 cm, and powerful tall ones - at a distance of 80-100 cm from each other. Planting holes are dug of such a size that they can freely accommodate dahlia tubers or an earthen ball with a rooted cutting, that is, about 30-35 cm in diameter. It is advisable to add 50-70 g (2-3 tablespoons) of wood ash to the bottom of the hole. 10-15 nitroammofoski.
If the area is not previously fertilized, you can put humus at the bottom of the hole and mix everything thoroughly with the soil. Root tubers are planted so that the root collar is buried 3-5 cm. When planting, cuttings are buried down to the first pair of leaves, preferably at least 5 cm; germinated cuttings are also planted to the same depth. This planting depth ensures best conditions for the development of roots and is quite sufficient to protect the root collar from the first autumn frosts. Root tubers are planted in well-warmed open ground in May, cuttings - in late May - early June (when the threat of frost has passed).
Care
Dahlias need to be watered regularly and abundantly. The frequency of watering is adjusted depending on the temperature and humidity. Plants especially need moisture in the first week after planting; at this time it is advisable to water the flowers daily, then less often, but in such a way that the soil under the dahlias is always slightly moist. The soil under planted plants should be kept loose and free of weeds. Usually the soil is loosened after abundant watering and fertilizing.
Fertilizing contributes to the good development of dahlias. It is recommended to carry out at least three feedings, regardless of the application of fertilizers during planting. The first feeding (15-20 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. m) is done at the end of June, when the dahlias take root and begin to grow. In mid-July, the plants are fed with slurry (1:10) or infusion of chicken manure (1:20). The solution consumption rate for liquid feeding is 1-1.5 liters per dahlia bush. The last time dahlias are fed is in early August: the feeding consists of slurry (1:10), superphosphate and potassium sulphide (15 g for every 10 liters of water). You can feed dahlias with nitroammophoska - 30 g (1 tablespoon) per 10 liters of water. The plants are fed with microelements at least once: for 10 liters of water, half a tablet of the “Pokutie” product; or 1 teaspoon of Sudarushka fertilizer (for flowers); or other means. Late feeding - after mid-August - is undesirable: it negatively affects the keeping quality of tubers.
Most tall varieties of dahlias require tying the stems to supports: stakes, slats, etc. To do this, use twine, braid and other materials that do not cut into the shoots. At the end of August, the bushes are hilled to a height of 15-17 cm to protect the root collar from the first autumn frosts. Hilling can be carried out several times during the growing season - this promotes tuber formation and increases the resistance of shoots to breaking out.
Bush formation
For dahlias, it is recommended to leave 2-3 strong shoots and remove all the rest as early as possible. Multi-stemmed bushes do not produce high-quality flowering and produce weak root-tubers that cannot be stored in winter. To speed up flowering (and in large-flowered varieties to increase the size of inflorescences), plants are pinched, that is, the side shoots that appear from the leaf axils are removed. Stepchildren (side shoots) should be removed as soon as they appear, and as close as possible to the stem (especially in the lower part). This is done regularly, starting from planting in open ground and until buds appear in the leaf axils of the main stems. The lower leaves should also be removed to a height of 25-30 cm. This prevents excessive thickening of the stems in the lower part of the trunk - root tubers with thick stems are worse stored.
Propagation by seeds
This method is used in breeding work and in growing annual dahlias, which are usually called “fun guys” for their abundant, continuous and long-lasting flowering, lightness and ease of care. Now breeders have developed a number of terry varieties, which, when propagated by seed, retain their decorative qualities, including terry size, color of petals and leaves, height and shape. Of course, these seeds are usually a little more expensive than our old favorites. Dahlia seeds are sown in March - April directly into the ground or seed boxes with light soil mixture prepared from humus, compost soil, sand and peat in equal quantities, close up shallowly - 0.5-1 cm, water with room water. When the first true leaf appears, the seedlings dive into boxes with nutritious garden soil at a distance of 4-5 cm from one another. Plants grown from seeds in open ground develop somewhat more slowly and bloom a little later - in early or mid-August, but they have a more powerful root system.
Reproduction by dividing tubers
Dahlia root tubers are divided, even if there is no need to propagate them, because dahlias grow and bloom well only if the bush consists of one to three stems. This is done when the buds on the root collars can be clearly distinguished. Typically, the dormant period for dahlia tubers ends at the end of February - beginning of March or a little later. If at the time of division the root tubers are still dormant, they are laid out on damp sand, peat or soil, kept at a temperature of about 20°C and ensure that the substrate is constantly moist. Severely dried out root tubers are completely covered, leaving only the root collars uncovered. First, multi-stem nests are dissected into single-stem parts by hand, then the planting material is divided into small sections with a knife, which must have part of the root collar, one or two buds and at least one root tuber. The divisions can be planted in pots or greenhouse soil for growing, or division can be carried out immediately before planting in open ground. It is advisable to sprinkle all cuts with wood ash.
Propagation by cuttings
If dahlias are propagated for many years only by dividing the root tubers, this can lead to degeneration of the variety. Therefore, along with this method of propagation, many gardeners use cuttings. Dahlias obtained from cuttings are in no way inferior to those grown from root tubers and usually bloom profusely. For this propagation method, root tubers are covered with peat, soil or sawdust so that the root collar is open, and the root tubers themselves are in a moist (but not wet!) substrate and are well lit. The sprouts are separated from the root tubers when they reach a height of 6-8 cm. Cuttings rooted best are those separated from the root collar with a part of the ring formation at the base of the sprout, the so-called heel. They develop strong roots, ensuring good growth and abundant flowering. After removing such shoots, dormant buds awaken on the root tubers, from which new shoots are formed, suitable for further cuttings.
Cuttings are cut at the end of March - beginning of April, when they take root well and without the use of root formation stimulants. From such cuttings powerful plants develop. You can root cuttings in different conditions: in greenhouses, on greenhouse shelves, under plastic film, in a room in pots under cut glass jars plastic bottles etc., that is, wherever it is possible to create and maintain relatively high air humidity around the cuttings. For this, some gardeners use a sealed cuttings, which is a box enclosed in a cover made of polyethylene film supported by a wire frame. The neck of the cover is tightly tied, and the soil is usually sterilized. In this case, the cuttings do not need watering. The cuttings are planted in cups with a nutrient substrate consisting of leaf soil and sand, and watered frequently. Most favorable conditions for rooting - temperature 18-22°C and good lighting.
Excavation and storage
Digging up root tubers and storing them for winter storage is a very important stage in the agricultural technology of this crop. The main reason for damage to dahlia tubers during winter storage- rotting of the root collar. To prevent this from happening, the basic conditions must be strictly observed. Dahlias are dug up before the onset of constant autumn frosts or immediately after the first frosts, when most of the dahlia leaves are damaged. Otherwise, renewal buds will begin to grow, which will use the nutrient reserves from the tubers. This will significantly worsen their shelf life during storage. First, they cut off part of the stem with a knife, then dig up the tubers (very carefully, preferably with a small garden fork), clear them of soil, and cut out the damaged and very old parts. If water has accumulated in the cavity of the lower internode, it must be removed. To do this, carefully pierce the partition with a sharp knife, lightly split it to the base, then turn the nest of root tubers over with the stump down and pour out the water. The stem is shortened to the bud girdle, leaving a small stump (2-4 cm), the sections are treated with a lime solution or sprinkled with wood ash. Each tuber is marked with a label indicating the variety. Tubers can be disinfected in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 10-15 minutes, and then for about 20-30 minutes in a solution of a fungicide, such as foundationol (10 g per 10 liters of water).
Before storing dahlias that have been dried for 24 hours, it is advisable to keep them in a room with low above-zero temperatures and high relative humidity for about two weeks. Under such conditions, the skin of the tubers will cork, and they will not dry out during storage. Some experienced flower growers To prevent rotting of the root collar of poorly stored varieties, succulent hemp tissue is removed. To do this, a circular cut is made on the stem above the bud girdle down to the woody tissue, and then the succulent hemp tissue is scraped off 5-7 cm above the neck. The optimal mode for winter storage of tubers is 3-6°C at a relative air humidity of 60-70%. You can keep the tubers on racks or in boxes, sprinkled with sand, moss, sawdust or ash. Dahlias are stored in basements or cool, frost-free rooms (pantries) with sufficient moisture. During the winter, root tubers are inspected several times, discarding damaged material.
Dahlias in landscaping
Dahlias look very impressive on lawns, where they are placed in groups of three to five plants. Low-growing plants are planted around them to cover the stems of dahlias that lose their lower leaves in midsummer. Along the paths, dahlias can be planted in two rows: in the foreground they are placed low-growing varieties, and in the back - tall ones. Dahlias are also widely used for landscaping balconies. In this case, varieties are selected that are low and medium-sized, abundant and early flowering, with a bright, stable color. Dahlias are also planted in mixborders, i.e. in multi-group mixed plantings ornamental plants, located in natural groups near the walls of buildings, along the edges of higher plantings. Here they are placed in small groups between plants, which lose their decorative effect by the time dahlias begin to bloom. The basis of mixed plantings are perennials with the addition of biennials and annuals. In large open sunny areas or areas with sparse groups of trees and shrubs, you can arrange a good dahlia garden - a flower bed or garden of dahlias of various varieties and groups. Varieties are arranged according to growth and color so that they are in harmony with each other, and the inflorescences of any variety can be seen at close range.
). The genus contains about 40 species. In the wild, these flowers are found in Mexico and Guatemala. About 15 thousand varieties are used in culture. Read below about the intricacies of growing dahlias in open ground.
Perennial dahlias
The dahlia is a plant with a hollow stem that can reach a height of 30 to 250 cm, and a large, powerful root system in the form of tubers. The size, shape and color of the flowers of the plant are very diverse. They can reach a diameter of 3 to 35 cm.
Depending on their shape, they are distinguished:
- simple;
- nymphaeal;
- semi-cactus;
- terry cactus;
- pompons;
- spherical;
- decorative;
- peony-shaped;
- collar;
- anemone-shaped.
The leaves of the flower also vary in shape and color - they can be from pale green to almost black.
Perennial dahlia flowers are distinguished by a long flowering period, which lasts from July to November, more precisely until the first frost. At this time, they delight their owners and passers-by with a variety of colors - there are only varieties with blue and light blue buds.
Despite its fabulous beauty, the plant is absolutely unpretentious in care. Most often it is planted outdoors in flower beds, but some varieties are suitable for growing in containers. used in discounts.
Did you know? The dahlia received its name from the famous Russian ethnographer Johann Georgi in 1803. The flower inherited the Latin name Dahlia from the name of the Swedish botanist Andreas Dahl in 1791.
Growing conditions
The main conditions for successfully growing dahlias are:
- selection of location in accordance with requirements;
- providing the necessary;
- regular ;
- properly carried out fertilizing;
- bush formation activities.
Lighting
In principle, dahlias can grow in any light. The only thing is that in areas they will be smaller and will shorten the flowering time - the flowers will grow smaller and dimmer. The most beautiful plants will be those that grow in light partial shade. If there is no such area, then they need to be planted in an open sunny area, but protected from the winds.
Weather
Since wild dahlias are native to warm countries, the plant is thermophilic. It should be planted when there is no threat, in well-warmed soil.
It is precisely because of the heat-loving nature that closer to winter, the entire above-ground part of the plant dies off, only the tubers remain alive, which must be dug up and stored until.
Soil characteristics
In terms of soil, dahlias are also unpretentious - will grow to any, however, the best decorative properties are shown when grown in chernozem, loam and sandy loam.
In heavy soil, it is important to add a mixture consisting of leaf humus, peat and sand. This way you can achieve greater breathability.
A prerequisite is the presence of good. Expanded clay or broken bricks are used for it.
Wetlands and areas with close groundwater are not suitable for planting dahlias. It is strictly not recommended to plant them in lowlands.
Features of planting perennial dahlias
To plant dahlias, you need to buy planting material. The stores offer seeds, root tubers, cuttings, and seedlings. When choosing, it is best to focus on tubers and seeds. With the help of the former, landing is easier and faster.
How to choose the right tubers for planting
When choosing perennial dahlia tubers, it is necessary, first of all, to pay attention to their quality and the availability of the necessary successful landing and care of elements: 2–3 cm piece of stem, root collar with buds, 1–3 nodules. All elements must adhere well to the root neck and under no circumstances dangle from it. 
Tubers should be chosen that are elastic, healthy in appearance - not wrinkled, not dry, without rot or spots.
If the tubers were purchased long before the planting process, then they need to be stored in the same way as in winter. ABOUT proper storage you can read below.
Preparation of planting material
Before planting dahlias, it is necessary to germinate the tubers after winter or, if they have just been purchased, to prepare them for planting in open ground. This must be done in April-May. Dry roots are removed from them.
Then they are planted in containers filled with nutrient substrate or peat. The tubers are not deeply buried in the soil - about 2–3 cm should remain on the surface. The containers are placed in a bright room and left there for 10–14 days at a temperature of +18–22 °C. During this time, sprouts should appear. Then the tubers are divided using a knife so that each part has a bud and a root collar. One tuber usually produces up to five such parts.
The parts are returned to containers with germination substrate. Before planting them in open ground, it is necessary to remove 10 cm of side shoots. Planting in open ground occurs after the sprouts reach a height of 10–15 cm.
Important! Parts of the tubers can be planted directly in open ground, but in this case the flowering period of dahlias will be reduced.
Landing rules
It is advisable to add small quantities of lime and ash into the holes in which the tubers are planned to be planted. The organic matter should be sprinkled with soil on top to avoid burning the tubers.
The hole should be bayonet deep. Then the tubers are carefully placed at the bottom of the hole and sprinkled. In this case, the root collar cannot be deepened too much - this is fraught with rotting.
At two to three years of age, dahlias will need to be planted by division. Otherwise, their flowering will become smaller every year.
How to water plants
The soil under the plant should always be slightly moist. After planting, for 7–10 days, dahlias daily. In the future, this should be done less often - a maximum of twice a week. Excessive is fraught with rotting of tubers and their poor tolerance to the winter period.
When the first buds appear, add and under the flowers. Dahlias are not needed.
The last fertilization procedure must be performed at the end. Otherwise, the tubers will survive the winter worse.
Features of bush formation
The formation of a bush consists of regular cutting faded buds and removing side shoots from below tall plants. If the buds are not cut off in time, they will inhibit the appearance of the next buds and, therefore, will delay flowering.
You can achieve large inflorescences by leaving only three buds on each.
Immediately after planting, with the main shoots clearly identified, it is necessary to select the two strongest ones and remove the rest. This way you can avoid unnecessary snacking.
Side shoots are broken off before buds form. All shoots up to the fourth pair of leaves from the ground are removed. The tips of the shoots from the fourth pair of leaves are pinched, removing the main growth point.
Later, such pinching is carried out on the side shoots.
Excavation and storage in winter
Starting from the end of September (it can be later, depending on the climatic conditions of the region where dahlias grow), when the stems die, the tubers must be carefully removed from the soil and placed in the necessary conditions for the whole winter, so that with the onset they can be planted in the ground again. It is important to know that dahlias should not be planted in the same place for more than three years in a row. The stems are cut 10–15 cm from the ground. Tubers are dug up in dry weather. First they dig in at a distance of 30 cm around. For digging, you should use a pitchfork - they use it to pry up the tubers and pull them out of the ground.
Then they need to be shaken off, washed to remove soil and dried for 4–5 hours in the sun or two days indoors. It is also advisable to pickle the tubers. For this procedure, potassium permanganate or products such as “Maxim” or “Vitaron” are suitable. After dressing, the tubers also need to be dried.
Well-dried tubers should be stored in a room with a temperature +2–7 °С or in the refrigerator. They are placed in a box or plastic bag with peat and sand. You can also wrap it in cling film. 
Tubers need to be periodically ventilated and inspected for rot.
Important! When tubers germinate during storage, they must be removed from a cool place and planted in a container with soil, for example, in a regular flower pot. The roots should not be deepened, just sprinkled with a little soil.
By planting beautiful dahlias of different varieties and colors in any corner of your garden or cottage, you can create a unique style for your yard
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