The ideal workbench. Homemade wooden workbench: description, drawings, photos

Every master should have his own workplace. You can make a workbench with your own hands in order to save not only money, but also free space. Industrial equipment It has standard sizes, which may cause difficulties with its placement, and a homemade workbench will have dimensions that will completely satisfy the home craftsman.

Design Features

If you plan to carry out carpentry work, then you can make a workbench from wood with your own hands. Otherwise, preference should be given to metal structures. Having decided on the size of the equipment, you should pay attention to some design features:

Design stage

Manufacturing work mechanic's workbench do-it-yourself projects begin with drawing up a project. There are two ways it can go House master- make equipment on site or according to a pre-drawn plan. In the first case, the legs of the workbench are immediately attached to the floor and the main structural elements are welded to them.

You can also start making a metal workbench with your own hands from the wall to which the main structural element is attached. One of the positive aspects of this method is the ability to quickly make design changes.

However, there is also a drawback - the lack of a pre-thought-out plan can lead to the creation of a less-than-thought-out design.

The second method is to draw up a drawing of the future workbench and, in accordance with them, select materials. In such a situation, the cost of the equipment may be higher, but the design will be well thought out. Only the master decides which path to take.

And now directly about how to make a workbench with your own hands. The design and dimensions are selected individually. If desired, you can even make a folding workbench, but in most cases you should limit yourself to a stationary one. For the frame, it is better to choose a corner 5 mm thick, the side of which has a width of 35 mm. This material is able to provide sufficient structural rigidity.

The tabletop should be made from boards and covered with sheet metal 2 mm thick. Here, special attention must be paid to the wood, which must be well dried so that in the future the surface under the metal does not begin to bend.

The frame of the shelves and other non-strength structural elements can be made from a 20x20x3 mm corner. The power shelf is made of wood about 20 mm thick, after which it can be sheathed with steel sheet. To make the remaining shelves you can use plywood.

Blanks of the required length are cut from the corner and then connected by welding. Support plates attached to the legs can make the structure quite stable.

However, they can be attached to the floor using anchor bolts or hex head screws.

Fasteners are selected depending on the floor material. The final stage Manufacturing the bed involves treating it with paint.

The following materials will be required for the countertop:

  • Metal corner 20x20 mm.
  • Board 50 mm thick.
  • Steel sheet 2 mm thick.

Before starting to assemble the tabletop, wooden elements It is worth covering with a fire-resistant compound, which can protect the boards not only from sparks, but also from bark beetles. When the boards are tightly laid, the tabletop is covered with a sheet of iron and leveled.

After this, a 20x20 corner is laid along the contour of the workbench and secured with bolts to the base. For ease of operation of the equipment, it is worth using fasteners with countersunk heads.

To make boxes, sheet metal is cut in accordance with the drawing, and it is given the required shape. After this, the structure remains to be welded at the corners and inserted into the workbench guides. When all work on its manufacture is completed, you can begin to install additional attachments.

A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds metal and wood work in a short period of time. Various tools and small parts are stored here. In simple terms, it is a special table on which you can do turning and metalwork.

In addition to the tabletop, there may be multi-layer structures of shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.

Making a universal workbench is quite simple. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings of the future product. During the creation process, it is necessary to observe the order of each action.

Self-manufacturing of such a structure will save a decent amount. Besides, individual project helps you make a design based on the parameters of your room.


Types of workbench

There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristic features. In turn, they are divided into:

Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of this product is made of a high-strength metal alloy. This is necessary for safety. While working on iron, sparks may be present.

In addition, the use of lubricants may leave marks on wooden surface. The iron base does not require special care.

Carpentry. Its surface is made of solid wood. Carpentry workbench used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike metalwork.

The universal table has a metal and wooden tabletop in its design. The drawing of the workbench shows the structure of the carpentry work area.

What is included in the design of the workbench?

If the product is made independently, then it is important to think through every little detail. Additional shelves and spacious hanging containers will help you use this product efficiently. Standard model contains many drawers for storing large tools.


A homemade table can have both metal and wooden system storage An additional metal shield allows you to store small hanging tools here. Now the hacksaws and hammers will be located in one place.

How to make a workbench with your own hands?

We bring to your attention detailed instructions on how to make a workbench. The production of a carpentry table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.

For this you will need:

  • hacksaw;
  • a screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
  • carpenter's square;
  • level;
  • bolts;
  • nuts;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • detailed drawing of the product;
  • wrench.


From the materials you need to prepare:

  • bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. During the selection process, it is necessary to pay special attention to the condition of the wood. There should be no cracks or knots here;
  • plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
  • boards for the frame.

When all the necessary items are prepared, you can proceed to the work process. It includes the following steps:

The initial step will be to construct a lower frame in which the tools and bench will be located. To do this, the boards are sawn off to the required level. Next, they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. The end result should be a rectangular shape.

A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future it will reduce resistance finished product During the work process you will need a small wooden board.

The supporting legs of the table are fixed with bolts. To do this, in the plane of the frame they make through holes. For reliability, it is recommended to make 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.

To give rigidity to the product, it is necessary to make a bottom shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked. Then long ones are attached here wooden planks. Subsequently, they will be fixed on their surface. Chipboard panel. It will act as a base.


When the main part of the frame is completed, begin installing the top tabletop. You will need a hacksaw here. She removes excess parts of the board.

Hardboard will help protect the surface of a wooden tabletop. This is a durable material that is designed for the work area.

You can increase the storage system using an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. Through holes are made in the support boards. After this, the metal base is secured with bolts. The photo of the do-it-yourself workbench shows the sequence of each action.

Photos of DIY workbenches

A garage is not only a building for storing a car and various utensils. It can repair cars and other products. In this case, you cannot do without a good metalworking workbench. You can assemble it with your own hands, but it is important to understand the features of its design and take into account the mistakes that are often made when assembling such structures. This article will cover the requirements for a good workbench and provide ideas for self-assembly.

Build errors

It is important to have a good understanding of what not to do when designing and building a metal workbench. The first thing you should pay attention to is the place where the bench will be installed. Often when pouring a floor in a garage, they are guided by the rule “it will do.” But this leads to large differences in the plane, which negatively affects the metalworking workbench. For example, some craftsmen who decide to make a workbench for themselves with eight or six supports are faced with the fact that after installation, half of the supports are in the air, and the workbench itself is thrown from side to side.

Working at such a bench is very inconvenient, and small parts are constantly lost. A way out of this situation could be the construction of adjustable supports. In this case, powerful bolts are installed in the lower part, which will allow you to level the bench in a horizontal position. Another option would be preliminary preparation surfaces. To do this, remove part of the screed that has already been poured and pour in a new one, which is clearly leveled along the horizon. In this case, there will be no need to manufacture additional parts for the metalwork table supports.

Another solution to this error is to reduce the number of supports to 4 pieces. This will make it easier to achieve the correct position even on an uneven surface. With proper design and construction of the frame, there should be no problems with the stability of the entire structure. Additionally, a shelf or several shelves are built at the bottom of the bench for storing consumables and tools. One of them should be as close to the floor surface as possible. In this case, a heavy tool that can be placed on it will act as a balancer for the entire frame.

Design nuances

There is always an opportunity to avoid assembling a locksmith table yourself. In this case, you can buy cheap consumer goods or a product that was used by a craftsman. But each of these options has its own significant disadvantages. In the first case, there is no guarantee that such a workbench will last a long time, since cheap options are assembled from production waste, and not quality material. Used products may offer excellent durability and attractive designs, but may not always meet the specific needs of the garage where they will be installed. That's why the best way We will assemble our own design according to the developed drawing.

There are several factors that allow you to assemble the most convenient design for your needs in plumbing work. When designing, it is important to consider:

  • height;
  • width;
  • depth;
  • strength.

The first and one of the most important factors is correct selection heights for the future plumbing structure. If the workbench turns out to be lower than required, then there will be a greater load on the back, since you will have to work in a bent state. If the height of the bench is too high, you will have to strain your legs and arms to reach the parts. The ideal option is when the tabletop is at the level of the navel. In this case, the forearms and hands lie perfectly on the plane and there is no need to strain your back.

There are no strict rules regarding the width of a bench. It all depends on what products will be placed on it. IN classic version The width is adjusted to the height of the person. In this case, standing in the middle, you can reach any point on the workbench. The depth of the product should be such that you do not have to bend over to reach an object lying in the depths. Usually 50 or 60 cm is sufficient. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the strength of the structure. It is impossible to overdo it with this indicator, because on a mechanic’s workbench you have to work with heavy tools and sometimes apply strong blows on details.

Advice! The construction of a workbench for metalwork should be made only of metal. Wooden structures are not able to withstand the required load, even if you select hard wood and sheathe them with metal.

DIY making

As a sample for making your own, you can take a table with two side tables. This table has four supports. In place of one cabinet, you can build shelves for easy access, and on the other, install drawers in which you can easily store small items. To implement the entire project you will need the following material:

  • profile pipe with size 6×4 cm;
  • corner 5x5 cm;
  • sheet metal for countertops.

From profile pipe it is necessary to prepare horizontal beams. You will need three or four of them. The length will depend on personal needs, but two meters is usually sufficient. Vertical posts are selected in accordance with your own height, as described above. They are made from the same profiled pipe; you will need four pieces. The wall thickness of the profiled pipe should be at least 2 mm.

Additionally, ten blanks are prepared for the metalwork table frame for shelves and drawers. You can use the dimensions given above as a guide. To strengthen the structure, you will need jibs that will be fixed in the corners. From the purchased corner, vertical posts are prepared on which the stand for hand tools. You will need four of these racks. Their height is usually 2 meters.

Note! To complete the entire workbench project, you will need approximately 225 meters of square pipe. Corners for racks will require 8 meters, and tires with a thickness of 4 mm and a width of 40 mm will require approximately 10 meters.

A square pipe by itself does not have the required fracture toughness. That is why it is welded around the perimeter of the workbench metal corner. Thanks to correct location corner it turns out to be a frame into which it will be easy to lay a metal sheet, which will act as a tabletop. The workbench tabletop does not have to be made of thick sheet metal, since its cost can be quite high. Another option would be to lay strong boards that are covered with thinner sheet metal. This design better absorbs sound during impacts and has less recoil.

Advice! Additionally, between the board and the metal sheet of the workbench tabletop, you can lay a layer of rubber, which will act as a shock absorber.

Frame assembly

Assembling the structure of a mechanic's workbench is not difficult if you have the skill to work with a welding machine. Thanks to the prepared parts, everything becomes simple and clear. The best solution would be to use a semi-automatic machine rather than arc welding. In this case, the material is heated to the required temperature and does not burn out from the electrode. The seams are neat and durable.

The first thing you need to do is make a rectangular base for the construction of the bench. To do this, you will need two blanks, the length of which is equal to the depth of the table, and two blanks, the length of which is equal to the width of the workbench. The ends are cut with a grinder at an angle of 45 degrees to ensure an ideal junction. The workbench blanks are laid out on a flat horizontal surface. Initially, they need to be fixed with small tacks and trimmed if necessary. Next, a full suture is applied to the structure. In this case, it will be necessary to make penetration on the other side.

The next step is to install the four bench posts. They are welded to the prepared frame. They must be positioned vertically. After this, the lower strapping is performed on three sides. At the same stage, vertical stands are welded under the stand for the tool, which will be located above the bench. The next step is the installation of frames for drawers and shelves, as seen in the photo above. In this case, an additional crossbar is fixed between them, but it is welded offset to the middle, so that it is convenient to stand behind the bench.

Final work

When the frame is ready, you can weld a corner for the bench top on top. The board is cut to the dimensions obtained and placed in the grooves. Before this, it must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardants so that it does not catch fire while working on the workbench. This is especially true in cases where two parts are welded on a bench or a tool is used that causes sparks to fly. After laying the board, you can place a metal sheet on the workbench, as seen in the photo. Sheets of plywood are screwed to high vertical posts, in which holes for tools are drilled.

To prevent the instrument from spilling out on the sides, it is necessary to sew up the walls using plywood or other suitable material. In the bedside table on the left, holders are built for partitions that will act as shelves. On the right in the workbench, according to the drawing, drawers are planned, which can be assembled from a board that was placed under the workbench table top.

The metal is corroded by moisture, so the surface must be protected with paint. Before painting, it is necessary to clean the frame of the bench. grinder and degrease. After this, a layer of primer is applied. After complete drying, the workbench frame is covered with finishing layer enamels. It should be paint that is resistant to temperature and mechanical stress.

Typically, a bench is equipped with a vice and a small anvil. An additional base can be provided for them. Such modules are mounted on the left hand side of the bench so that they are easily accessible and do not interfere with the main work. One more important device for a mechanic's workbench is lighting. It should be installed on top so that it is not blocked by the master’s head and hands. Can be used as light sources for a metalworking bench led spotlights. Several of them are installed permanently and several must be moved along the plane of the workbench. In this case, it will be possible to choose the best lighting angle.

Before starting work on a new bench, it must be loaded to its maximum to ensure stability, as discussed above. Some owners additionally fix the supporting legs to the concrete base using anchor bolts. A video showing the assembly of another version of the locksmith table is below.

Summary

As you can see, the design of the locksmith table can be assembled independently. Assistance may be required when carrying out welding work, as this requires special skills and abilities. A second person can help during assembly when there is a need to hold the parts being welded.

A garage equipped with a bench and associated tools turns from a place to store a car into a full-fledged workshop. Using this equipment you will be able to perform a variety of repair and maintenance work, repair household appliances and design furniture.

In this article we will talk about how to make a workbench with your own hands. Their varieties and design will be considered, a list will be given necessary tools and materials, and also presents step-by-step instruction for the execution of work.

1 What is a workbench?

A workbench is a table designed for manual or instrumental processing of parts made of wood and steel, on which electromechanical and any types of installation work. To expand the functionality, the workbench can be equipped with auxiliary devices - a vice and stops; the presence of compartments (shelves, drawers) for storing tools and accessories is also useful.

The standard height of a workbench varies between 90-100 cm (depending on the height of the master), the width is 70-80 cm, the length is from 120 to 150 cm. There are also adjustable work tables, the height of which can be changed in the range of 50-150 cm - They are more convenient, but it is quite difficult to make such a workbench with your own hands.

There are 3 types of workbenches:

  • carpentry;
  • carpenter;
  • metalworker

Homemade workbench metalwork type consists of a frame (made of profile square section) and a wooden tabletop 25-30 mm thick. A powerful tabletop is a mandatory attribute of a metalworking workbench; for additional protection, it is advisable to cover it with a sheet of galvanized metal 1-2 mm thick. In this case, the table cover can easily withstand hammer blows and other mechanical impacts.

Other types of workbenches are radically different from the design considered - a carpenter's table has longer length(up to 6 meters), it is equipped with special stops for fixing the workpieces being processed. The dimensions and structure of a carpenter's workbench are similar to a metalworker's, however, its tabletop is designed to handmade and does not imply the possibility of various fastening of workpieces, which limits the variability of the use of power tools.

1.1 Guide to making a workbench (video)


2 Making a workbench for the garage with your own hands

Since a mechanic's workbench is the most versatile and compact option, it makes sense to use it for installation on a balcony or in a garage. Typical designs There are quite a lot of such tables, some diagrams are given in this article, but the dimensions and design of the table are best selected individually. When drawing up a drawing, take into account what work will be carried out on the table and what dimensions of the workbench will be optimal for their implementation.

To make a metal workbench with your own hands you will need the following materials:

  • corner 50×50 (thickness 5 cm) - length 6.5 meters;
  • corner 60×40 (3 mm) - 25 m;
  • corner 40x40 (4 mm) - 7 m;
  • metal strip 4 mm - width 45 mm, length 8 m;
  • sheet for table top 2 mm - dimensions 220*75 cm and board of similar dimensions 40 mm thick;
  • guides and plywood for drawers 15 mm thick (size depends on the number of drawers);
  • self-tapping screws, screws, bolts;
  • acrylic paint.

The above materials are designed for a homemade workbench with a length of 220 cm and a width of 70 cm. These dimensions allow you to optimally distribute equipment on the tabletop - a vice and circular saw so that they do not interfere with each other during operation.

For power tools, you will need a grinder, a jigsaw, a drill, a screwdriver and welding machine. Also prepare a level, tape measure, sandpaper, paint brushes and a metal brush.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench - step-by-step instructions:

  1. We cut according to the drawing steel profile and a strip into pieces of the required sizes. The corner will be used to construct a power frame, the strip will be used to install guides for fastening the side panels of the table.
  2. Using a welding machine we connect power frame, initially welding the upper rectangle of the tabletop - for this, two pipes with a length of 220 and 70 cm are used. Inside the rectangle, transverse stiffeners are welded in increments of 40 cm, and a corner is fixed at the upper end in which it will be placed wooden table top. Next, side legs 90 cm long are welded to the upper part, which are reinforced with belts coming from the central jumpers.

  3. After the base part of the frame is ready, it is necessary to weld the panel for the power tool; it can be made folding, but the fixed structure is more reliable. As load-bearing elements for the panel, a corner 220 cm long and four segments of 95 cm are used. Two of them are fixed in the central part of the frame, two more - along the edges, after which a long corner is welded along their upper contour.

  4. It remains to bring the frame to mind - to load-bearing elements you need to weld strips for further plywood sheathing, then you will need to strengthen the frame with jumpers in its corner parts.

  5. When making a workbench for the garage with your own hands, you cannot neglect the installation of drawers, since their presence will make the table more convenient to use. The boxes are made of 15 mm plywood, which is cut to size and connected with screws; guide elements are fixed on the side walls of the structure.

  6. Before laying the tabletop boards, the wood must be coated with an antiseptic, which will significantly extend its service life. The boards can be laid along or across the frame (depending on their length), after which the surface of the tabletop is sanded and covered with a steel sheet, which is fixed with self-tapping screws and painted.

  7. Next, we install the drawers, securing them with guide bolts screwed to the table. On the opposite side of the table you can make several open shelves; they are quite practical and convenient.

A mandatory attribute of a metalworking table is a workbench vice, which is placed in one of the corners of the tabletop. The vice is fastened with anchor bolts; it will be useful to place a 1-2 cm thick steel plate between the vice and the table top for more reliable fixation of the tool.

The functionality of such a workbench with a vice can be further expanded by installing a circular or miter saw, a stationary jigsaw or a drilling machine. Like a vice, each of the tools is mounted in the corner of the workbench.

2.1 Requirements for a homemade workbench

A mechanic's workbench is a structure designed to work with cutting power tools and other potentially dangerous equipment, so it can only be used if the following safety requirements are met:

  • when making a mini-workbench for installation in a small garage or on a balcony, it is necessary to ensure maximum stability of the structure; if necessary, the table is rigidly fixed to the flooring;
  • there should be no sharp edges or protrusions at the corners of the tabletop;
  • when installing a vibrating tool, it is necessary to use vibration-damping rubber gaskets;
  • The workplace should be regularly cleaned of chips and oil stains.

The workbench design described in the article, when properly manufactured, can withstand a load of over 200 kg. More requirements for desktops can be found in regulatory documents GOST 20400 and GOST 22046.

If you are not confident in your skill and the instructions provided seem too complicated, the best solution There will be a purchase of a ready-made factory workbench. The world's leading manufacturer of such products is Workbench (Germany), which supplies the market with a wide range of products, which includes large-sized, compact and collapsible workbenches for plumbing, carpentry and carpentry.

The cost of Workbench desktops varies in the range of 7-20 thousand rubles, depending on the size and functionality. For household use The Worckbench 110 model is best suited - it is a collapsible aluminum table with pull-out elements for fixing power tools and auxiliary equipment, which has proven itself well among masters all over the world.

The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition of industrial prototypes in a design for one’s own use, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years, is one of typical mistakes development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “game” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations have a particularly strong effect on workbenches on a metal frame.

The third - repeat carpentry or metal workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your needs. Meanwhile, workbench designs for home/hobby work of different nature a lot. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary, made from scrap materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper, in accordance with the range of needs and/or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from scrap trash, at home for small precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” factory-made workbench

This is a wrong decision not only because the wooden tabletop is damaged by carpentry work. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. A different approach to designing the tabletop (board, lid) of a universal workbench is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.

Work bench

In the West, amateur/home workbenches with stacked table top, framed by a side. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the fitter, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad.

The bench workbench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then a garage and a mechanic's workbench. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

Workbench composition

A workbench of “our” type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately establish its origin) consists of:

  • A bench (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in metalworking benches), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
  • Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
  • Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
  • An apron on which the tool is hung. An apron is not a necessary accessory for a workbench; it can hang on the wall or be replaced with a cabinet, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the installation location and type of work within the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

The lid and shelf are most often made at the same time, one-piece, and are simply called a lid, a workbench board or a tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on a base (bed, substrate) made of wood. In a metalworking workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpentry workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twists, etc. defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) also serves as a shelf; in a workbench for the home, for the sake of simplifying it, without sacrificing quality, it is possible to have 2 -layer construction, see below.

The traditional design of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the carpentry shelf. This comes from the master craftsmen of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed/bench that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over those on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood used is seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops in a factory? And the overall strength and stability of the home workbench frame will be fully ensured by commercial coniferous wood of ordinary quality.

The design of a wooden workbench frame made from 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load – 150 kgf; dynamic vertically downward for 1 s – 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on 6x70 self-tapping screws in a zigzag (snake) pattern with a distance from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are carried out in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel angles on self-tapping screws; the edge ones - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the tenons of the posts and, on the outside, with corners.

If timber 150x50 or (180...200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. The load-bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from timber 150x150, 150x75 and (180...200)x60 you can build a frame capable of bearing 450 kgf in static conditions and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: Any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Under the joinery, a box-shaped lid is placed on it (see below), and under the fitter, a tray from a 60x60x4 angle with welded 4-mm strips above the intermediate beams is placed. A wooden cushion is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding work for its manufacture, can be made according to the following scheme. rice. The “trick” here is the tabletop, glued together from 75x50 lumber and fastened with ties. If the timber is oak, then permissible load– 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts – timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and welding is available. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials – corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes are made of galvanized steel. Disadvantage - it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs; the structure will lose its ability to bear dynamic loads.

For a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the diagram at the top right made of corrugated pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (others) is suitable vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120...150)x40.

Shelf – steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x(30...35) self-tapping screws, a pair at each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - in increments of (60...70) mm. Only in this design will the workbench show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: the lid is turned over under the joinery wooden side up or adjust as described below. A bench vise is mounted on a wooden pad, but is not secured with a clamp. A collet anchor for an M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice pad from below, and a through hole is drilled in the cover for it. A 60x2 washer is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.

For carpentry

The cover of a carpenter's workbench, unlike a metalworker's one, is tightly attached to the bench and is box-shaped for overall rigidity. The optimal fastening option for a non-dismountable workbench is steel angles and self-tapping screws. The underbench can also be a steel frame from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench works is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it on pos. B. The bench board (in this case it is a separate device) is used to work with long pieces. The support in its groove is made from a wedged piece of board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and secure it into the sockets with bolts with conical heads. The traditional design of a carpentry bench is shown in pos. G, but – see above.

It is possible to reduce the cost of the carpentry workbench cover by making it 2-layer, pos. B. Then quality boards solid wood Only needed for the shelf. They lay it by laying the boards with “humps” of annual layers, alternately up and down, to avoid warping. The shelf flooring is first glued together with PVA or carpentry glue, tightly compressed with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow using the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately using glue and through tenons (inset in pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Carpentry vice

Solid wood carpenter's vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are necessary here.

First, you need to place 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the cushion (wood 4x4x1 cm). Secondly, if the nut is not custom-made or purchased, then at least temporarily acquire a set of taps for the thread you are using. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is quite enough.

The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to recess it into the clamp pad, this way there is less chance that the nut will break off when clamped. But welding will cause the thread to go ugly; you can’t get rid of it with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete pattern, as when cutting: first tap - second - third (if included in the kit).

Note: The nut welded to the base must be allowed to rest for 2 hours before passing the thread so that the residual deformations “settle down.”

Vise and joinery for mechanics

The vice on the bench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure) so that as much as possible most of dynamic loads during metal processing fell vertically on the corner post. Location of cross beams and intermediate vertical racks It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vice slightly asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with the vice. The vice is also installed starting from the corner:

  • A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under an installation bolt, and a tall nut or threaded bushing is welded into a metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
  • If the fastening unit is welded, the threads are threaded with taps, as in a homemade nut in a carpentry vice, see above;
  • Place the vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark the holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
  • The vice is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
  • Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
  • For fastening to bolt 4, place a jib U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to secure the jib, but it must rest from the bottom against the upper frame (frame) of the bed, but not against the table top!
  • Finally attach the vice to bolt 4.

Note: Stationary power tools are also secured in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; plugs from plastic bottles, they endure a tight fit many times.

Workbench for garage

It is impossible to make a workbench in a garage with an optimal width for the ergonomics of the workspace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car parked in it do not allow it. Long ago, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined to be 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor removed for rebuilding) turns out to be unstable, so it is attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench “resounds” stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

A diagram of the structure of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. This design uses an ingenious method of additional vibration damping: cells of the lid frames and the bottom shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The installation accuracy of the crossbars is +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the lid and bottom shelf are made of 32 mm thick laminated chipboard and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work its durability is sufficient; can be easily replaced.

Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Recess into a stone wall is 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already wall-mounted, and the wall-mounted one is on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling machine” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the shavings fall directly onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench cabinet with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; It is also suitable for fine work in the home (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cardboard. To fold, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, perhaps a folding workbench box would be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box


Home station wagon

At home they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, model making, watchmaking, artistic sawing from plywood, etc. For small, delicate work, a universal workbench is suitable, drawings of which and its accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the tabletop is covered with linoleum. The bench vise for this workbench needs to be small, with a screw clamp fastening.

More about plywood

In general, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because... she calls back well. If the board cushion of the bench is made from plywood, then to its underside you need to glue a frame (frame) also made of plywood to its underside, see fig. Then it is advisable to first cover the upper (working side) with linoleum without a lining, and then lay the steel on it.

The younger shift

Another case when making a workbench board from plywood is justified is a student workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not beat him too much in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, masters of the past deliberately gave their students bad instruments.

Workbenches for the dacha

When country house or other lung wooden structure It’s still just under construction, there’s no time for bench-widths, you need at least something on which you can carry out simple carpentry work. For such a case a quick fix you can put together a carpentry workbench for a summer house from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we make good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on arranging the dacha, a mini-workbench will be useful, on the right in Fig. At minimum consumption material and extremely simple design, it is sufficient for ordinary carpentry work and is stable in all respects, because the middle of the bench board is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed along with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha inhabited permanently or all summer, with a craftsman owner, by the way, you will need a more complex but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.