What to make a table with your own hands. How to make a country table

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distribution and dining tables; the remains of food and food have been preserved on them. In this article we will see how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen table completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial skills of carpentry, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and turn a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here a lot less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite available for making with your own hands, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, in which we will try to help the reader.

You can make a kitchen table in at least 15 different ways., including art forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will restrict ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the least labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular tabletops or with rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular one for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and it is necessary to serve it over the shoulder of the seated person. This already belongs to the category of parodies of the rules of good form. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards yourself or away from yourself? Answer: depending on what you want to shower, yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity wedging into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the dimensions of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m.However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested seductive forms on the cheek of the faithful just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table for the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, if only it is convenient for the eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm... For singles, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it in the "microkitchen" or in the kitchen area of ​​a small-sized odnushka wall-mounted folding, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

What to do

The traditional kitchen table is on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the table top can be freely applied to them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and more durable, but it is more difficult to bring in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the drawers are tightly fastened to the table top, and the legs are detachable. The table top in this case is needed strong and not of any suitable for the pre. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skidding / removal. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail later.

The table on the underframe can also be decorated, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - the chiseled shaped legs - are excellently obtained from commercially available handrail balusters (see below). The figured wash down of the tsar for a novice craftsman who knows how to handle a jigsaw is not a problem. Remains a hammer - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For her, you can rent a hand-held milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like, with it the very work of mouldering takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are beam-structure tables, pos. 3. They are even in the simplest version (2 options, see below) more attractive than tables with a base. However, to perform them in a high-end design (item 4), well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required. Beam tables require more material consumption, but their indisputable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing worktop without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest kind of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and the assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent production of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially made a splash due to its compact folded form and the ability to use it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the pivot support lock was the simplest, of a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the support thickness to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry on the tabletop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and on the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical latch turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, a very promising design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.

Wall folding tables, (pos. 7), are found occasionally in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their superiors. have all the disadvantages of book tables with little or no improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used on the farm much more often, but this is a separate class of pieces of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to only mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage when drying out: oak, hornbeam, wenge, chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack, even when impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. Hence, some features of its manufacture follow, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

Table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a ready-made post-formed countertop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard plate with rounded edges, finished with wood or other material. The advantages of postforming applied to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made of boards, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Joining the boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work, for this special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a kitchen countertop:

How to make a table top from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the look can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (pos. 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel joint, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to collect their first products on furniture euro screws - confirmations. It is more expensive, but does not require any special skills. the hole for the confirmation in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one run, see fig.

Details made of chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected by confirmations, last for many years. All structures described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first glance: for furniture slots for a hexagon, and for plumbing ones for a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the confirmation body without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1 / 5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The deepening of the threaded part of the confirmation into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmation.
• The hole (blind hole) for the confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use the main drill only with a twist drill for wood.
• It is imperative to thread the main drill into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmates with a main drill of diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmat on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult even for a perfect "teapot" to fulfill these conditions:

1. By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the confirmation body without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, you can determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open the pictures at the request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
4. We say: "I need so much of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put on them a detachable (freely superimposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a head and various types of corrugation on a long recessed and short protruding part are produced, see fig. on right. The first to be fixed are thick countertops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe, together with the legs (item 1 in the figure), are traditionally connected (assembled) on tenon-groove joints, which is quite difficult and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the head section of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters, the head is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection of self-tapping screws on wood obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer layers of the tsars should be 1.5 cm apart from the outer surfaces of the tops of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the side of the kitchen table is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws obliquely with diagonal ties at the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the tsars. If the tabletop is not supposed to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the laborious setting of it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the tsars and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The top of a classic table with detachable legs should be from 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or from 30 mm (solid wood). Countertops made of other materials, for example. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe at the same time with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between the modules of thermal expansion of them and the wood, the table will soon become loose.

Further, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary wood screws. they are without a neck that keeps the joint from displacement.

The next point - jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are required, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overhead. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the desk drawer are taken the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The structure of the furniture drawer is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble his tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front drawer of the table or enter it flush, it doesn't matter.

To install the box in the table in the longitudinal front sidewall, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross-section of the box tray, plus allowances on the sides of the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to fix the rails. They are attached to the longitudinal side bars from the inside using backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it from the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. parts of the guides, push the box into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross-section of the side bars is not less than 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Table top - any worktop weighing up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second one is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already beamed.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The table top is constructively any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with the solid wood table top. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, a beginner stumbling block may seem like a lower bandage (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for a wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How this type of beam kitchen table is made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components

The table, the drawings of which are below in the fig., Has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the countertop, and the most it can be glass, plywood with mosaics of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the countertop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So it is rustic or modern, it is a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without a tabletop

Factory kitchen tables without cupboards are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.

First, a table holder is still needed, made of a wooden beam from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 attachment points of the leg holder must be approximately the same, otherwise the attachment will loosen by itself. A strapping made of a bar expands the stress fan in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace a continuous strapping with corner overlays, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (pos. 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. laminated enough soft wood, the nests can, breaking the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the likelihood that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third is the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without table stands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like these tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a self-assembly kit at retail.

Books and cheburashka

The disadvantages of the book-table of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In fig. below is a drawing of the design of a book-table (only one swivel support without tabletop wings is conventionally shown), eliminating them in an amateurish way, but effectively. Quite simply, the width of the pivot support has been reduced by more than half compared to the tabletop wing span (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it became comfortable to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest lock (see above), the knees need to be lifted up so that it will be very inconvenient for yourself. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. If this is not the case, the pivot bearings must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was applied in the wall folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging from top to bottom.

The branded solution to the problems of the book table is the detachable legs stored in the cabinet. Putting them down is not much more troublesome than catching the clamp on the tabletop with a pivot support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no retainer, tk. he just isn't needed.

The next step in the evolution of a book-table is a design with a wider cabinet and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half as much, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).

Such kitchen tables were so popular with consumers that they have already been given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, we built, and finally we built it." A fold-out kitchen table, as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don't need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can eat on it too. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes outside the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-dimensional kitchenette in a bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9 meter kitchen of a brezhnevka. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table doesn't stand on its own. To plant eaters, you need to add 400 mm to it along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m "living space", and the table 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. It is very, very difficult to shove such a thick slice into a regular-sized kitchen without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is close at hand.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our belly, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometime there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

Even if the production of furniture is far from your field, making a country table with your own hands to get together with family and friends on warm summer evenings is quite a feasible task.

Its main advantage, in contrast to the purchased one, is undoubted savings. It is not necessary to make a table from scratch: simply by assembling the purchased parts, you will save 30-50% of the cost. If you manage to use the materials left over from construction or repair, the costs will be limited to the purchase of accessories.

To select a design, you need to decide where the product will be used.

Using cheap off-grade boards - substandard - for a country or kitchen table, you will receive advantages that are not available for mass production. Sounds dubious? But this is so: the knots, due to which the boards are rejected, have interesting decorative properties. If you succeed in highlighting them, you will become the author of a completely unique design product, which is a pity to leave in the garden in the rain.

Making a country table with your own hands to get together with family and friends on warm summer evenings is quite a feasible task.

To choose a design, you need to decide where the product will be used: on a grassy lawn under a tree, complement a gazebo, stand in a workshop or in a house.

The simplest country table can be mounted in a few hours with a minimum of materials, but it will not last long either. To get a product that will be really pleasant to use, you need to carefully prepare the boards and perform all technical operations with high quality at each stage.

Its main advantage, in contrast to the purchased one, is undoubted savings.

If you find a large tree stump in the forest, it can make an easy-to-make garden table. You just need to remove the bark from the stump, make an even cut along the top, grind it, treat it with an antiseptic and varnish it. It is enough to nail or screw the finished furniture board to the "leg" from the stump - and you're done.

Tabletops made of boards, fastened at the bottom with transverse slats, look good. If you prefer a glued countertop, you can make it yourself, but it will take a lot of effort.

If you succeed in highlighting them, you will become the author of a completely unique design product, which is a pity to leave in the garden in the rain.

It is difficult for a novice master to fix the legs securely, so try to choose a design, correctly assessing your skills and taking into account the cost of labor and time. The easiest way to make cruciform and L-shaped legs. To attach straight legs - you need to carefully connect the parts.

One of the most comfortable garden options is a collapsible table with benches that can be installed in a gazebo or on a veranda. It is not difficult to carry out it, the main thing is to choose high-quality materials and properly prepare them for work.

The simplest country table can be mounted in a few hours with a minimum of materials, but it will not last long either.

How to choose a tree?

For a garden or kitchen table, wood of many species is suitable, both soft (pine, spruce, cedar, fir) and hard (oak, birch, ash, walnut, maple, apple, pear, acacia, etc.) The exception is too soft species wood (poplar, alder, aspen, willow).

One of the main parameters of the suitability of wood for the manufacture of furniture is resistance to decay: the species listed above meet this requirement.

If you do not plan to do furniture work all the time or are just starting to practice, give preference to the most common types of wood - pine and birch.

Tabletops made of boards, fastened at the bottom with transverse slats, look good.

Various wood species can be used for the table top, frame and legs. At the assembly stage, dowels will be needed: they are usually made from acacia or boxwood. Birch wood has an inexpressive pattern and can significantly warp due to spilled liquid - it is better not to use it as a tabletop material, but thanks to the hardness of this breed, legs can be made from it.

The countertop is best made of oak or pine. If you know how to brush wood, the surface of the kitchen table can be a real work of art. Wood of soft types lends itself to brushing: wood is burned with a gas burner, and soft fibers are removed with an iron brush. It is better to work in the yard due to the large amount of dust. If you managed to burn the wood evenly, the result will delight you. Brush can be tinted with stains, stains, diluted with water, artistic acrylic paint. Of course, wood brushing is not necessary: ​​this is only a finishing option.

If you prefer a glued countertop, you can do it yourself, but it will take a lot of effort.

Selection of paints and varnishes and adhesives

Before proceeding with the installation, the boards must be protected from decay. The tree must be impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE): processing is carried out twice with an interval of 3-5 days. This is enough for the product to serve for a long time.

Some models require glue. Along with special carpentry adhesives (BF-2, etc.), you can use construction PVA: it is applied to both glued surfaces, dried until tack-free, then the parts are connected and kept under pressure for up to three days.

It is difficult for a novice master to fix the legs securely, so try to choose a design, correctly assessing your skills and taking into account the cost of labor and time.

The choice of paints and varnishes is determined by where the product is planned to be used: in the yard or indoors. For a garden table that is inevitably exposed to precipitation, alkyd, alkyd-urethane, nitrocellulose varnishes and oil paints are suitable. For the kitchen table, as well as for any furniture that is constantly in the room, it is better to use acrylic paints and varnishes: they are more environmentally friendly, do not have a strong smell. Varnishes marked with the blue angel are recommended for children's furniture and toys.

If you decide to cover the wood with wood stain, paint or just tinted varnish, this must be done before assembly. Consideration must be given to material compatibility. The varnish is tinted with a paint that is suitable for its composition: if the varnish is alkyd, the paint should be oil, if you use acrylic varnish, it can only be tinted with acrylic paint. First, a small amount of varnish is thoroughly mixed in a separate container with paint, and then the resulting mixture is added to a larger varnish.

One of the most comfortable garden options is a collapsible table with benches that can be installed in a gazebo or on a veranda.

What tools are needed

For work you will need:

• hacksaw,
• circular saw or jigsaw;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• hammer (if it is decided to use nails).

Many species of wood are suitable for a garden or kitchen table.

This list includes only the most necessary tools, but to make the work more comfortable, and the finished product looks aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to buy or rent a rotary miter box, an eccentric sander and a milling machine.

The swivel miter box makes it possible to make cuts at exactly the right angle. The eccentric sander allows you to prepare parts simply, quickly and efficiently: you will sand the boards in an hour, instead of doing it all day by hand with sandpaper. For high-quality processing of the ends, a belt sander is useful, and a milling machine allows you to select the wood for the necessary grooves and process the edges.

If you do not plan to do furniture work all the time or are just starting to practice.

Homemade pallet table

A spectacular, rustic-style table can be constructed from pallets (wooden pallets). If you are the lucky owner of such a container, especially a double-deck pallet, just disassemble it: there is no problem of purchasing boards!

Do you think buying new boards is always better? You probably have not worked with wood before: you cannot use raw wood (the product deforms after a few months), and dry boards are much more expensive. To dry raw wood boards, they are stacked in a well-ventilated area: this necessary process will delay your project by 4-6 months! A good option for the kitchen table can be the already mentioned rejected boards, also dry.

Various wood species can be used for the table top, frame and legs.

Let's go back to the pallets: they are disassembled. Now you have at your disposal sturdy boards with different patterns and colors, it is possible that from trees of different species. These features should not be considered as disadvantages: they will give the product a zest: you just need to create an interesting composition out of them, alternating boards of a similar shade.

The sides of the pallet will make an excellent frame, and the remaining planks will be used to assemble the countertop.

It is better to work in the yard due to the large amount of dust.

To make the legs, you will need a bar with a thickness of at least 5 cm.All details must be prepared: sand them strictly along the fibers with coarse sandpaper (No. 120-150), then with a finer grain (No. 400-600), carefully removing dust.

Some boards can be painted with acrylic or oil paint. Fans of the loft style can use stencils in the form of numbers or simple graphic symbols. Boards with a beautiful natural pattern are “stained” or simply varnished. After staining or the first layer of acrylic varnish, the soft fibers rise; sand them with medium-grit sandpaper and apply a new coat of varnish.

A spectacular, rustic-style table can be constructed from pallets (wooden pallets).

If a non-aqueous varnish is used, it is enough to apply 2-3 coats, and if acrylic, the number of coats can be up to ten.

Rejected boards, also dry, can be a good option for the kitchen table.

We fasten the boards of the countertop with strips, which we place at the joints of the boards. Using a drill, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we attach the boards to the planks (at the joints we use two self-tapping screws, on solid boards - one). The use of a drill is necessary so that the wood does not crack when screwing in the screws. We assemble the frame from the prepared pallet sides. Using a drill of a suitable diameter for self-tapping screws, we drill holes at the joints. We coat the joints with glue and fix with self-tapping screws. Install the legs: just screw the boards to the frame, screwing in the screws diagonally. To strengthen the structure, we make the jumpers at the bottom in a similar way.

To make the legs, you need a bar with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

Wooden table with glued top

For glued worktops, you need to choose boards of the same width. If the table is intended for a workshop and its appearance does not really matter, you can use old floorboards: there are already grooves there. To make the grooves yourself, you need a milling machine.

A flat surface is required to collect the countertop. We just coat the sidewalls with glue, join the boards without gaps and tighten the resulting structure with clamps. Depending on the glue used, the worktop should dry from 1 to 3 days. If everything is done correctly, you will get a worktop with a completely flat surface without gaps. It remains to work out the ends - first trim with a jigsaw, and then grind. In the absence of a belt sander, this must be done manually - with sandpaper, first coarse, then medium grit.

After varnishing the parts, you can proceed to the installation, which consists of several stages.

If you don't want to mess with glue and clamps, you can use a ready-made furniture board from a hardware store. Then the table top remains to be coated with a transparent or tinted varnish.

For a good result, you need to apply 5-7 (for acrylic varnish up to 10) layers. After every third layer, the working surface of the countertop must be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, carefully removing the dust with a damp cloth. At the stage of varnishing, it is important not to rush: each layer of varnish should dry well.

It remains to make the legs of the garden or kitchen table: let's dwell on the version with L-shaped legs. You will need boards with a thickness of at least 22-25 mm.

For glued worktops, you need to choose boards of the same width.

L-shaped legs consist of two parts, connected at an angle of 90. On the boards to be connected, it is necessary to make a sample, coat the joint with wood glue, and then install self-tapping screws.

When the glue dries, we cover the legs with varnish and, after drying, we simply attach them to the countertop with screws.

There are several options for connecting the legs to the table top.

Table with straight legs

To make straight legs, it is enough to saw a thick bar into pieces of the same length. There are several options for connecting such legs to the table top.

To ensure that the straight legs are installed securely, you can use a dowel connection at home. You can make them yourself from acacia wood or buy ready-made ones. To assemble the dowel joints, you need a fast-drying wood glue (BF-2).

To make straight legs, it is enough to saw a thick bar into pieces of the same length.

Table with X-shaped legs

Sequence of work.

1. On the inner side of the tabletop, we fasten two strips on each side with self-tapping screws.
2. To make the table look good, the edges of the planks must first be cut at an angle of 52.
3. We fasten the paired strips so that the legs fit, we make gaps of 2-3 mm on each side.
4. We put the boards on a flat surface, crossing them at the desired angle. We measure the distance between the ends of the boards: it should correspond to the width of the table.
5. We outline the intersection with chalk: here you need to choose half the thickness of the boards so that after assembly they lie in the same plane.
6. We coat the grooves with glue and place the parts under the press for 1-3 days. For greater reliability, the connection can be strengthened with self-tapping screws.
7. We varnish the legs.
8. It remains to attach them to the table top, placing them in the grooves formed by the slats - and the table for giving with your own hands is ready.

X-shaped legs are made of beams or boards with a minimum thickness of 50 mm.

Table with benches

The optimal solution for a gazebo is a dining table with benches attached to it. It is better to make such a structure collapsible in order to clean it up for the winter indoors.

For the table, you will need thick boards (from 32 mm), which must be cut into pieces according to the drawing. In this version, two benches are attached to the table. When all the parts are cut, they need to be sanded, paying special attention to the ends. We cover each board separately with varnish.

The optimal solution for a gazebo is a dining table with benches attached to it.

To connect the parts of the structure, we will prepare studs (length 160 mm), nuts and washers - 24 pcs. For the rest of the connections, we use self-tapping screws or nails of a suitable length. With the help of a drill, it is necessary to prepare all the holes for the fasteners.

According to the drawing, we assemble the tabletop and the upper parts of the benches. We cut the crossbars along the edges, the angle should be 45. It is convenient to do this using a rotary miter box.

We make and attach all the legs to self-tapping screws. We fasten the parts cut at an angle.

We cover each board separately with varnish.

We tighten the product with studs and bolts. The holes for the studs must be pre-drilled with a drill. When installing the stud, you need to put on washers on both sides and tighten the nuts using a wrench.

We tighten the product with studs and bolts.

We fasten the seat boards with gaps of 5 mm or more. When the seats are connected to the sawn-off supports, we attach them to the assembled base with 160 cm boards: you need 4 boards.

Install the remaining studs and enjoy the result.

With the help of a drill, it is necessary to prepare all the holes for the fasteners.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wooden table in the gazebo

50 photo ideas: how to make this table with your own hands

Let's take a look at practical tips that make it easier to assemble a table with your own hands and help you achieve the best results. The construction of a country house is divided into several stages. A serious step is the arrangement of the summer cottage. Furniture plays an important role in the comfort zone. A wooden table complements the overall interior and enhances the functionality of the room. But buying it may not always be successful, so we suggest considering a homemade option. It can be placed outdoors or indoors. Such furniture plays an important role in the arrangement.

We use either pallets or wooden boards as building materials. An unforgettable requirement for the material is the absence of moisture. With sufficient funds and desire, new boards will be very effective in construction. The quality and long service life of any furniture depends on the quality of the materials purchased for its assembly; how well they are processed before use. After successfully purchasing the necessary materials, and in this case, these are wooden planks, fold them into rows and leave them to ventilate. The longer this type of material will stand and ventilate, the better it will serve in the future.

Any furniture is primarily made only from dry wood.

As mentioned above, tables are suitable for a wide variety of places and complement furniture literally everywhere. Individual manufacturing methods are selected for each table. For example, you set out to decorate the gazebo with a wooden table. And this is quite convenient and correct, since spending time in the gazebo without a table in the summer is somehow uncomfortable. Homemade furniture just doesn't hurt. In the process of work, it is not necessary to glue the boards. It is enough to fix it with special fasteners. This approach greatly simplifies the manufacture of outdoor countertops. Or you can purchase them on the website https://stone-fortress.ru/. First, you don't waste a lot of time building. Secondly, it is quite possible to replace the glue with other effective means, which means that financial costs will decrease.

Pallets, like wooden parts, are highly distinguishable in color. Accordingly, you visually decorate the table the way you want. Pallets have side parts. They are used as a framework. True, before this, the material must be sanded properly. It is worth considering that all the material will not be used up. The remaining planks can serve as tabletop fastening elements. The bonding point is in the area of ​​the board joints. Only two self-tapping screws are needed to join the board. For the last one, one.

The sides and two planks will be used to build the frame. At the end we fix parts of the frame with self-tapping screws. The frame does not have to be attached with self-tapping screws, it is enough just to glue it. Since the length of the self-tapping screws is large, we drill individual holes.

Our table will be out soon. It remains to turn it over and start sanding. Use coarse-grit sandpaper at first, fine-grained sandpaper a little later. The next step is to install the legs. To do this, you need four boards with exactly the same size. If necessary, of course, you will have to correct the wooden boards in order to achieve an overall positive result. In this case, sanding is also an integral part of the job. Then each leg needs to be screwed on. To do this, you need two self-tapping screws, which are important to place diagonally from each other. The installation of a jumper will help ensure maximum stability. The distance between the floor and the lintels should be at least 10 cm. When everything is fixed, we begin to drill holes for self-tapping screws. Thus, we will fix the material so that it does not crack.

You now have a complete design. Naturally, it doesn't hurt to decorate it somehow. For example, start by painting. Of course, the first time there will be a hard pile. There is no need to be afraid, it is in the order of things. We grab the sandpaper again and start sanding the surface until it becomes smooth. Dust is definitely generated from this work. Accordingly, you will have to get rid of it. Then again we take up the varnish and cover the surface with it. It may be necessary to grind a third time, since the varnish will not lie flat the first time. In general, it all depends on the type of wood. So it is better not to neglect unnecessary grinding, but to provide your wooden product with a beautiful look. After completing all the listed necessary procedures, we get a beautiful handmade wooden table.

Let's say the option of making it from a newer material, if you do not want visible traces of nails or planks to scare you with their variegation. The table top is made in a variety of shapes: rectangular, square and round. The result depends on your personal preference.

Leftover table

Sometimes it happens that at the time of construction or the next renovation of the cottage, extra boards of various breeds remain. Instead of throwing them away, it is better to use this leftover material for larger tasks. Make the same table. To do this, we select pine boards that will go to the frame (25 mm thick, 50 mm wide). For the legs, we will leave planks 15 mm thick and 50 mm wide. As for the size of the frame, everything here is purely at your discretion. Such a table is well suited for a veranda. And since this room is not large, it is advised to make it narrow (60 cm - width, 140 cm - length, height - 80 cm). Of course, if the family members are not tall, it is perfectly acceptable to play with the size of the countertop.

Next, you need to assemble the frame and fix the boards, which act as legs. It is necessary to cut two boards 140 cm long. The width parameters are 60 cm. It is necessary to subtract twice the thickness of the used board - 5 cm. That is, the used bars should be 55 cm. Now fold the frame by twisting the self-tapping screws. How the bars were folded, you need to double-check everything. Noteworthy is the diagonal arrangement of the bars. If something does not converge, you should definitely transfer it, since in the future the very design of the tabletop will suffer.

Cut four planks and secure them inside the frame (80 cm long). Use four self-tapping screws for each board. The bottom shelf can be an additional element of the table top. To equip it, fasten the crossbar in the middle of the two legs. It will serve as a frame for the future shelf. In a similar way, work is done with other pairs of legs. In addition to giving the shelf more convenience, two lintels significantly increase the level of rigidity of the structure as a whole. The fastening of the jumpers should be carried out strictly at right angles (check with a special square).

Now the frame is ready, it remains to check it. If the structure is correctly made, the frame does not wobble. It remains to grind it. Next is the assembly work. Perhaps you still have boards of different colors. Why not apply them in the right direction. For example, arrange the boards on the surface in such a way that they alternate in color.

The last stage in the manufacture of the countertop involves fastening the boards with nails. We fix the shelf from below with nails or self-tapping screws. Again, you need to grind the assembled product. And in the end it remains to paint. But it so happens that you miscalculated with the choice of varnish or paint. And then what to do? If you want to change the look, you will have to re-sand the surface. Next, you need to re-start painting with a new color.

Glued table

The difference between the previous versions lies in the fact that the legs of this design go with the letter "G". They are assembled from boards of the same width and thickness (20 mm thickness). Since the volume of the legs here is larger than the previous ones, more self-tapping screws (5 pieces) will be required accordingly. In advance, you need to drill holes with a diameter of 1-2 mm (the hole should be less than the diameter of the self-tapping screw itself). The second time you need to drill a hole with a larger diameter. It is intended for a self-tapping screw cap, which is then closed with a furniture plug. In other cases, the rod is preferable to choose a furniture color.

Another great idea is furniture putty. Add wood dust to the mixture with which you will putty (take the rest of the sanding). When the putty is dry, hole marks will not be easy to find.

Working on the legs

When assembling the legs, care must be taken to ensure that the angle is 90 degrees. If there is no template, use a regular bar. To join two boards, coat one and the other with wood glue. Install self-tapping screws in the right places. When the glue is dry, cover each leg with varnish. But before that, do not forget to polish.

Assembling the countertop

As the legs were made, the turn goes to the top of the table. The table top is made of boards of the same thickness. We choose the sizes we want. Boards can be of different widths. It is important to maintain the organic appearance. It is important that the side parts of the boards dock exactly with each other without gaps. We also grease the side of the boards with glue. Then we lay them evenly on the surface.

To avoid possible gaps, tighten the boards with clamps. Leave the tabletop overnight. As the day has passed, remove the clamps - the tabletop is already ready. As before, sand the surface and smooth out the edges. Start trimming with a jigsaw or saw. Sometimes a grinder is also used, but in this way it is difficult to ensure the evenness of the line. And now the stages of grinding are over, and you get a completely flat tabletop of a diligent look.

Glued board tabletop

Use the above method to make a round, oval, or any other shaped countertop. Of course, you can achieve the evenness of the cut tabletop if you draw in advance the lines along which its shape is cut. Frames can give an attractive look, and make them better with your own hands. Take a thin strip and sand it. Secure according to the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails and glue are suitable for fastening (first of all, you need to process the strips with glue). The glue will dry, and the plank will need to be sanded at the joints.

There is no table without legs

The tabletop is ready, which means that it remains to put the table on its feet. A plank frame is required to attach the legs to the main body of the table. It is attached to the back with glue. But this is not enough, because it is necessary to secure it even from above, using confirmations. First, you need to drill holes on the tabletop with a diameter for the hat. And then mask them like the previous holes. Now the table frame is firmly secured, begin attaching the legs. The docking point should be inside the frame. For fasteners, we use ordinary self-tapping screws. The table is ready!

Table and benches in the garden

When making a table and benches, boards of different sizes can be used. To connect the benches with a table, 16 cm studs are used (in addition to them, washers and nuts). Other connecting fasteners are no longer than 80 mm. So, each part of the garden table is set in its right place. Then the through holes are drilled with a drill. And then, as you yourself already understood, the turn goes for washers and nuts.

It is best to use a wrench when tightening nuts with washers. Thanks to this approach, in winter, you can easily unwind the structure and take it to a warehouse, garage, shed or any other place for storing such things.

Each board should be carefully sanded and trimmed. To hold together the three planks, which are intended for the seats, you need to cut short pieces. We cut each of them at 45 degrees. The first step is to start assembling exactly that part of the structure, which is located below. We take one large board (160 cm in size) and attach small blocks to it. At the time of joining, they must be fastened in the middle of one big one. Now we add legs to this structure (fasten with nails). Add short boards again. All these elements need to be pulled together with studs, bolts and nuts. Thus, a support unit is obtained that secures the seat from below.

And it remains to attach the boards for the seats. By the way, if this structure is intended for the street, it is not at all necessary to make a narrow gap between the boards. At least 5 mm is enough. The planks are fixed to the sawn supports. We have formed two shops. It will not hurt to fix them with four boards 160 cm long. To fix all four legs, we use 2 pins for each leg. Install them either at the same level or diagonally.

Kindergarten table

The principle of assembling the table is completely different from the previous versions. The table top is held in place by planks that are cut at 52 degrees on the sides. The sawn supports must be positioned in such a way that the legs for the table can enter between them. Secure them with finishing nails. If you do not want to allow good visibility of the caps, drive them deeper. Just coat the surface with a special lubricant as a mask.

The legs of the table are not standard here, but look like crosses. To assemble them, take two boards and cross them in such a way that at the bottom the gap between the objects is 65 cm. In the middle of the boards, leave a mark for crossing the boards. The mark is drawn in the form of a square and half the thickness of the board itself. The same should be done on the other board. We get two materials of the same plane. The connection process takes place with four nails. By analogy, the second pair of legs is made.

Now we have to assemble the table as a whole. First of all, the most important thing is to fix two pairs of legs into the main structure on which the benches are located. We place the legs parallel to each other in the middle. Naturally, they need to be fastened with hairpins so that they do not fall off in the future. The table top is fixed in a similar way. If the studs are screwed in, proceed with sanding and painting. Paint the design in any color that suits you. In addition to this design, those options are acceptable that imply a separate table from the benches. The assembly of the structure is carried out in a similar way. Except for the seats, of course.

Making a wooden table with your own hands, as it turned out, is not so difficult. There are moments that require utmost attention to some things in the manufacture. If you follow the above guidelines, your table will be perfect. The choice of good materials and competent execution of the work will ensure the product has a long service life. The design will be able to impress with its functionality and decent appearance.

Video: DIY wooden table

Photo gallery: DIY table

It is no secret that furniture is used in the country, which has served its term in an apartment. The table is no exception. However, in suburban conditions, the furniture that served well at home may not always fulfill its purpose. We are talking about modern tables, made mainly of laminated chipboard. Such tables are not suitable for a gazebo, veranda, garden, and in a house with high humidity in the off-season, their service life is limited. In such conditions, a wooden table is necessary, but a wooden table is not a cheap pleasure. The solution to the problem is to make a table with your own hands. This is quite simple to do. In addition, this will significantly save money, including on delivery.

The simplest table design

The simplest table design is shown in the photo below. At the same time, such a design is the least expensive both in terms of materials and manufacturing forces.

Fig. 1.

Optimal table dimensions

One of the advantages of making a table for a summer residence with your own hands is that the table can be made of any size. Thus, the table can be easily adjusted to the dimensions of the gazebo, veranda or kitchen.

To make it easier to navigate in size, I will give a dimensional grid, which is most often used in the manufacture of tables. Dimensioning is based on the size of the countertop.

• 60x90 cm. A table with such dimensions is optimal for 3 people. It is convenient to dine at such a table, drink tea, etc. Due to its size, it will fit well into any small space.
• 80x120 cm. 4 - 6 people can sit comfortably at such a table. Usually a table with this size is appropriate for a large kitchen or veranda.
• More than 120 cm. Tables of this size are good for feasts. In the conditions of a summer residence and a limited space of a country house, such a table is mainly installed in a gazebo or under a canopy in the open air.

Naturally, when making a table with your own hands, the size can be made arbitrary, however, in order to be comfortable at the table, you should adhere to the recommendations given above.

Manufacturing procedure and table drawing

A drawing of the table is shown in the figure below.

Fig. 2.

The legs for the table are made of a wooden bar with a section of 40x40 mm and a length of 70 cm. If you want to decorate the table, you can use balusters as legs. They are carved and will make the design of the table more interesting.

The support for the tabletop can be made from a board with a section of 25x150 mm by sawing it lengthwise into two halves. For support, you need 2 boards with a length of 650 mm and 2 boards with a length of 1050 mm.

With the countertop, everything is much more interesting. The countertop can be made in a variety of ways. The easiest option is to purchase a furniture board of the required size. It can be purchased in building materials chain hypermarkets.

Fig. 3.

Following this path, it should be remembered that a furniture board is made by gluing small pieces of boards, and with constant exposure to atmospheric precipitation, it will quickly become unusable. Therefore, a table with a furniture board top must be varnished or painted to protect it from moisture.

Another option is a board tabletop. The boards can be used in any size. For example, with a section of 25x100 mm. This is a simple and cheap countertop option. This option is devoid of the disadvantages that are inherent in a furniture board.

Fig. 4.

However, without special equipment, it is unlikely that it will be possible to tightly fit the boards. Therefore, the table top will have gaps between the boards. This looks good for a garden table. But not very practical.

You can get rid of the gap mentioned above by using an unusual, grooved board. It will cost a little more, but you will get a smooth, even tabletop.

Fig. 5.

Euro floor boards can be used as grooved boards. They are easier to find in the store. It is only important not to forget to stitch them from the wrong side.

Assembling the table

Once all the elements of the table are ready, you can start assembling the table. The assembly of the table is carried out in a specific order.

First, the support for the table top is assembled and the legs are fixed to it. This is the most difficult part in assembling the table. As described earlier, the worktop support consists of 4 planks. They need to be connected together. This can be done in several ways.

The photo below shows how to assemble a tabletop support and fix a leg to it using a special tie.

Fig. 6.

This method is the perfect solution, except for that fact. Getting a special screed can be tricky.

Another way is to tighten the entire structure with a piece of wood.

Fig. 7.

Using this method, you need to pay attention to the fact that the bar must be sawed off at an angle of strictly 45 degrees. Otherwise, the table will not be rectangular.

In my opinion, the simplest and most affordable option for assembling the legs and support for the table top is the use of a metal general construction corner with a size of 50x50 mm. You can buy it in any store, and it has the correct geometric shape.

The last step in assembling a table is the installation of the table top. Depending on the type of worktop, it can be fixed in different ways. The furniture board can be fixed with corners or with glue. Separate boards with self-tapping screws and glue.

Fig. 8.

As you can already understand, making a table for a summer residence or at home with your own hands is quite simple. It's important to get creative. Such a table can be decorated with any paintwork. A handmade wooden table will delight you every day and will serve for many years.

Wooden tables and decoration ideas

Fig. 9.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

Fig. 12.

A great way to complement the interior of a house or summer cottage is to make an original and stylish piece of furniture. We are talking about how to make a table with your own hands in this article. Such a piece of furniture will become a real decoration of the living room, kitchen or study. It can be assembled at home from specially ordered planks and beams or from leftover materials. For this, the master will need drawings, tools and a little imagination. But the experience of making homemade furniture may be lacking. We offer you a very simple project for assembling a sturdy and stable table. Even a beginner can make furniture according to this scheme.

It all starts with an idea

How to make a table? You need to start work with the selection of a finished project of furniture for the living room or with drawing up your own diagram of the future product. You don't have to limit your imagination, but remember that the complexity of the drawings should correspond to your skill level. In the absence of sufficient experience, it is better not to try to assemble a very complex structure yourself.

The project of a table for a home can be drawn with a pencil on paper. First, you need to draw a structure of the desired shape, and only then designate its dimensions. Most often, a do-it-yourself table for a living room is made square or round, but for a kitchen or study (and any small room), a compact corner or adjustable table is suitable.

The dimensions of the table with your own hands can be absolutely any; when choosing the dimensions of the product, it is recommended to take into account, first of all, the dimensions of the room in which it will stand. Then, using the drawings, you can calculate the amount of material that will need to be purchased. It is recommended to purchase materials with a small margin (just in case).

If you are a beginner who assembles furniture for the first time at home, then you better give preference to soft wood (for example, pine).

Such materials are very malleable and do not degrade during assembly. If you are making living room furniture and aesthetics are important to you, then choose poplar. If the homemade table will be used outside the home, then it is recommended to choose treated wood or mahogany.

A wrought-iron table with a wooden tabletop will also differ in durability. A wood product decorated with wrought iron elements will add charm to your yard.

To assemble a simple table at home, you will need:

• edged or grooved boards, square beams (for legs) and rectangular beams (for the frame);

• white or yellow wood glue;
• screws (it is advisable to take self-tapping screws 4x60 in size);
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a set of clamps;
• sandpaper or sander.

Making the countertop right

We begin the work by describing the process of making the countertop. There are several ways in which you can solve this problem. What determines the choice of this or that method? First of all, from the skill of the furniture maker and the intended appearance of the table for the living room or country house. So, here are the main ways to make a homemade countertop:

1. Production from boards. This material is distinguished by its relatively low cost, excellent appearance and environmental friendliness. If you are a novice craftsman, then you can make a table with your own hands from grooved boards (that is, blanks with combs and grooves.

An experienced craftsman can assemble living room furniture from their edged boards. To do this, he will need dowels or a soil carrier of a small length. They will be used to connect the boards to each other.

1. Manufactured from a single piece of wood. In this case, you do not need to rack your brains at all over how to make a table with your own hands with a fairly durable and beautiful table top. The best option is to purchase hardwood plywood. However, such a product will be quite expensive.
2. Assembling a product from leftover materials. This is a very cheap way of making furniture for the home, but quite difficult to implement. It will be necessary to select pieces of wood that will harmoniously combine with each other and will not create problems during the installation and further use of the product. Combining leftovers is also not easy. In this case, you will have to use screws and a large amount of glue or create an underframe (stiffeners).

In the first case, the boards are layered on top of each other, connecting with screws and glue. Since all boards are of different sizes, it will be necessary to cut off protruding elements on the finished product and carry out a thorough grinding. The result is an original and comfortable table.

The second method involves fastening the remnants of materials in any convenient way (using glue, screws) with the subsequent strengthening of the structure by installing a subframe or stiffeners. Such a table with your own hands will be distinguished by stability and durability.

If the table will be located in the courtyard near the house or in a stylized living room, then you can order a forged frame with legs for it. This will add a special flavor and originality to the product.

When the countertop is ready, you can leave it overnight to dry properly. The manufacturing technology of this part of the table is approximately the same regardless of the chosen shape of the product. The main differences between projects in this case are in the shape that needs to be given to the edges of the boards or a solid sheet of wood.

If you are making an original corner table, then the edges of the boards will have to be made at an angle. It is very important to correctly calculate the degree of each cut so that the edges of the product are even.

However, if, as a result, irregularities are still formed, then the edges of the table will need to be properly sanded. You can also first fasten the boards, and then draw a triangle on the blank and cut the finished product.

If you are making a round table in the living room or a product with rounded edges, then it is recommended to fasten the boards of the future product, and then draw lines of future cuts on the blank with a pencil or chalk.

The finished worktop for such a project will look like this:

Frame as the basis for a robust table

The next step is making a frame for the living room table. The frame is a wooden square (for a square or rectangular table) or a polygon (for a round product), which is fastened to the table top and secures the legs.

Making a frame for a regular table is not difficult, even for a beginner. To do this, turn the table top upside down, measure the canvas, count a few centimeters inward and make marks. Then you can draw a rectangle or square from the marks.

After that, you need to cut off four pieces of wood of such dimensions that correspond to the drawings on the countertop. For the manufacture of the frame, it is recommended to take a rectangular bar. The plank frame may not be strong enough. Then the frame must be attached to the countertop with glue or self-tapping screws. The second option provides a higher reliability of the structure, however, on the surface of the tabletop, in this case, the caps of the self-tapping screws will be visible.

We make strong and reliable legs

At the next stage in the implementation of an unusual project, you need to make the legs of the table. First, you can cut one leg of the desired height (for the production of legs, it is recommended to use a square bar), and then, using it as a sample, cut off the remaining 3. If you are making a corner table, then there will be not 4 legs, but 3. After the cutting process is completed, follow clamp all the legs together and cut them so that they are the same length.

At the next stage of work, the legs need to be sanded with a grinder or sandpaper. But the top and bottom of the products should not be sanded, as you can spoil the correct cut angle. Then you need to attach the legs. To do this, the table can be turned upside down.

The first leg should be placed in one of the corners of the frame in such a way that the upper cut touches the table top, and the two sides of the leg are adjacent to the frame. Then, the contact lines of the parts must be liberally greased with glue and connected using fastening screws, which are screwed through the table frame. It is advisable to make holes for the screws in advance so that the screws do not split the wood during the screwing process.

It is better to refuse the use of nails and a hammer in the manufacture of a standard or corner table, since nails can split wood, and using a hammer requires special skill from the manufacturer. In addition, screws hold wood better than nails and can be removed from the product if necessary.

Be sure to ensure that the legs are attached to the table at the correct angle. One of the advantages of screws is that they are easily adjustable. Their position can be easily changed if necessary. Then the same operations should be carried out with the rest of the legs. It is also possible to screw the legs through the worktop, but in this case there is a risk of splitting the top of the legs. And the aesthetics of the living room table will suffer from this.

When the glue is completely dry, you need to check the product for stability by loosening it strongly. However, if you have made a corner table, then this step can be skipped. It will be in contact with two walls of the living room or study, and this will give it additional strength. Then all that remains is to grind the surface of the finished product and cover it with wood varnish or special paint. This concludes the work. Now you can complement the interior of your apartment or garden with a wonderful product.