How to sheathe a plasterboard ceiling without profiles. How to level a plasterboard ceiling without a frame - technologies and stages of work Smooth plasterboard ceiling

Owners of both old and new apartments face the problem of uneven shelves. And everyone decides it different ways. Some people don’t see the point in doing this at all, believing that uneven ceiling does not cause any inconvenience, since you do not walk on it with your feet. But still, most owners want to see the ceiling in their home beautiful. The easiest way to level the ceiling yourself is with plasterboard, which will hide all the unevenness that catches your eye.

Work order

Plasterboard ceiling cladding is done in stages:

Prepare the base.
They make markings.
Mount the frame.
Drywall is cut according to measurements.
Install gypsum boards on the ceiling and fix them.

Some people don’t bother preparing the base before covering it with drywall, considering it a waste of time. They think that if they hide all the irregularities under the skin, they will not have any problems in the future. But if you decide to cover the ceiling with your own hands, it is better to do everything as the masters advise.

Of course, you shouldn’t bother with leveling, but you definitely need to put the surface in order.

To do this you need to do the following:

If possible, remove the previous finish;
Remove mold and mildew and treat the surface with antiseptic compounds;
Seal all cracks;
Make the wiring to the installation locations of the lamps.

Before starting work on preparing the foundation, you will need to remove pieces of furniture from the room and, at worst, cover them with cellophane.

Cleaning old decoration The work is dirty, so it is better to do it with gloves, goggles and a respirator. Of course, you shouldn’t tear off tightly glued wallpaper; it’s enough to make notches on the paint surface, but it’s better to get rid of cracked plaster. Areas with mold and mildew will need to be cleaned with a stiff brush and then treated with compounds with an antibacterial effect.

On a reinforced concrete base, it is worth sealing the joints of the slabs, and even small cracks, this will improve sound insulation. In addition, it is advisable to coat the surface with a primer. deep penetration with antiseptic additives. The wooden ceiling must be carefully examined for the presence of rotten boards that will need to be replaced.

This stage has great importance for covering the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands. The final result depends on the accuracy of the marking, since the profiles to which the gypsum boards will be attached are mounted along it. The marking sequence is as follows:

determine the expected level plasterboard ceiling, for this we find the lowest point ceiling surface;
we make the necessary indentation, guided by considerations of practical expediency: how the lamps will be installed, which pipes will be hidden behind the structure. You should also make a reserve of a couple of centimeters, otherwise the finish will turn out unattractive;

Important! For a chandelier, it is enough to retreat 5 cm from the base, but if you plan to install built-in lamps, then the deviation should be at least 10 cm.

along the luminous line laser level make markings on the walls;
We apply a so-called grid onto the ceiling with a pencil, which will be convenient for orientation when installing PP profiles and hangers. When drawing the grid, we maintain a 60cm step between the lines for ease of fastening the plasterboards.

Correct markings will simplify installation frame structure. Installation Operations structural elements are made in the following order:

We measure the walls to determine the required length for the guide sections;
use metal scissors to cut profiles;
We attach the guides to the walls along the perimeter of the room, making sure to align them according to the markings; the lower edge of the profile should be aligned with the line;
At the intersections of the longitudinal and transverse lines of the grid, we fasten the suspensions with dowels;
we lay out wires to the places where lighting fixtures are supposed to be installed;
in accordance with the measurements taken, we cut the ceiling profiles;
We insert the longitudinal profiles into the grooves of the guides, and attach them to the hangers with fleas.

For greater rigidity of the suspended structure, transverse profiles are mounted at the joints of the gypsum boards. Upon completion of the frame assembly, you should make sure that the supporting profiles are installed correctly in the plane. To do this, it is better to use the two-meter rule, which should be placed perpendicular to the profiles; the gap between them can be up to 1.5 mm. If it turns out to be very large, you will need to re-twist the fleas on the hangers.

Since gypsum boards are produced big size, then they will almost certainly need to be cut. This process consists of the following operations:

First, the sheet is marked using a tape measure and a pencil;
Connect the given marks by applying a rule to them;

By the way! Do not make markings with a marker or pen, marks that will be difficult to hide during finishing

. Next, set the rule along the drawn lines and draw along them stationery knife with a little pressure. Ease of use of the rules when cutting plasterboard sheets lies in the fact that its guide bar prevents the blade from leaving the line;
you will need to put gypsum board on wooden block or on the edge of the table so that the cut is in the air, now lightly hit the hanging part, press and break along the cut.
after that all that remains is to turn the sheet over to the other side, cut through the cardboard and separate the fragments;
It is advisable to clean the cuts with sandpaper or a plane.

Attention! For those who doubt their “breaking” abilities, the craftsmen advise cutting the cardboard on both sides, driving the knife blade as deep as possible and only then, gently tapping it to break the sheet. This is how very small pieces are cut.

It is necessary to begin installation of the casing after all communications have been arranged and wires have been laid to the lamps that are supposed to be located behind suspended structure. Now it's time to start screwing down the drywall.

Since the sheets are not small in size, you will need an assistant to install them. The prepared sheet is placed on the frame so that one edge is in contact with the wall, and the other lies in the middle of the supporting profile. If the length of one sheet is not enough, it is joined to another gypsum board. In these places, a chamfer of 2-3 cm is removed to make it more convenient to putty the joints. You can remove it with a special plane or knife.

They are fixed with metal screws 25 mm long, the caps of which are screwed with a screwdriver flush with the surface of the sheets. It is important to avoid tearing the cardboard, as this weakens the fastening site. The screws are tightened after 20-25 cm. When all the sheets are attached to the frame, the heads of the screws and plasterboard seams will need to be puttied. In addition, you should make sure that the hinged structure is installed correctly. It is enough to apply the rule in different directions; ideally, there should be no gaps between it and the ceiling.

Some apartment owners have to look for alternative way alignment of walls and ceilings for the reason that drywall requires a frame, and its arrangement is a costly and labor-intensive matter. But installation of gypsum boards is possible without a frame - the easiest way to level the ceiling. It can be considered a worthy replacement suspended ceilings, and such finishing is much cheaper.

Conditions for using the frameless method

Leveling the ceiling surface with plasterboard using a frameless method is only suitable for small rooms in which the ceiling height does not exceed 2.5 m. Frameless cladding can only be used if there is a slight difference in the level of the ceiling surface at different points. But even in the presence of these conditions, if you plan to place lamps on the ceiling, then you cannot do without arranging the frame.

Before covering the gypsum board ceiling using the frameless method, it must be prepared in exactly the same way as was described in the method of attaching them to the frame. In addition, additionally prime the surface. It's faster and easier to do this with a roller.

By the way! If you extend the handle of the roller and put it on a stick, you can apply the primer directly from the floor.

There are two ways to attach plasterboard sheets to the ceiling without a frame in order to level it:

Fixing the sheets with self-tapping screws and foam.
For glue.

When choosing the first method of attaching gypsum boards, you must keep in mind that they can be fixed in different ways. There are two options for fixing the material on the ceiling surface:

insert polyurethane foam through the holes;
Apply the foam mixture to the back of the sheet.

When choosing the first option in the gypsum board you will need to drill 8-9 through holes. After securing the material using self-tapping screws with washers, a foam mass is introduced into them. It penetrates under the gypsum craton in small quantities, and after swelling its excess protrudes through the holes. Dried pieces of foam that have come out are cut off with a knife. The washers are removed from the screws and re-screwed flush with the surface of the sheet.

The second fixation option is to apply polyurethane foam directly to the sheet with back side. Usually it is distributed over the surface in zigzag patterns. Leave for 5 minutes, when the foam mass begins to increase in volume, the sheet is raised to the ceiling and pressed. At the same time, it is important to maintain uniform pressure, avoiding strong changes. For a successful result, the gypsum board will need to be screwed with long self-tapping screws until the foam mass sets.

Fixing plasterboard with adhesive composition

Important! This method is only allowed to attach moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets to fairly modest-sized ceilings.

The adhesive used for frameless installation of plasterboard on the ceiling must meet the following requirements:

The adhesive composition must have a minimum setting time;
When curing, the composition should not shrink much;
The prepared solution should be plastic and homogeneous for ease of application to the sheet with a spatula;
Since gypsum-based glue has a short shelf life, it is important that the mixture is not expired at the time of preparation.

The German dry mix Knauf-Perfix meets all these requirements to a greater extent. The gypsum in its composition is enriched with plasticizers, which ensure the necessary adhesion of the adhesive solution to the drywall.

It is more convenient to apply adhesive “blobs” in strips 10 cm wide with an interval of 20 cm. Do not apply glue to the edges of the sheets, as it will come out when fixed. Next, the gypsum board with glue is lifted and pressed to the ceiling. Supports are placed under it, a board under the plane and racks. After the glue has hardened, it is advisable to additionally secure the casing with self-tapping screws in the projection of the glue strips.

Upon completion of the installation of drywall, you will need to seal the joints with putty and further finish it.

Video instructions for the order of installation of a plasterboard ceiling

Almost always, covering the ceiling with plasterboard is preceded by the construction of the frame. This is not a very fast process, requiring certain skills and the use of profiles and more. You cannot attach drywall directly to the wall using only simple fasteners. In this case, pressing even minimally on the wall will cause injury at the attachment point.

Thus, the drywall is attached only to wooden wall, but these situations are rare. You don't see a wooden ceiling very often. And yet there is a way out - dry profileless plaster. If the ceiling is made of gas block, this method is the only correct one.

Leveling comes down to the fact that after attaching the plasterboard sheets you will get a perfectly flat surface. Naturally, it must be perpendicular to the floor, so installation is carried out based on the largest unevenness on the wall.

Attention, if the unevenness of the ceiling is such that it exceeds 5 cm, you still cannot do without profiles and framing. Don't take risks.

If the difference is acceptable, proceed further:

Choose one of the sheet fastening methods. The first is by lighthouses. The installation of the beacons itself takes time, but working with drywall is easier later. The second is without beacons, the work itself will begin faster, but you will have to tinker with each sheet.
A compromise solution is to install beacons on large area, and abandoning them on a small one.

Prepare the ceiling surface - clean it thoroughly, cover it with a primer layer. Next, decide how to fix the sheets; most often you just need to glue them.

Installation of drywall with glue without frame (video)

Attaching plasterboard to the ceiling without a frame: installation

So, the surface is prepared, grease stains are removed, old plaster is removed (if there was any).

Marking the ceiling at fastening points;
Attaching the sheet to ceiling slab, drilling marks in 8 places;
You remove the sheet, drill holes according to the marks, insert dowels or wooden choppers into them;
A piece of foam rubber is glued to the sheet 10 cm from drilled holes, foam plays the role of a regulating spring;
The sheet is applied to the ceiling, screwed with screws, and washers are first put on it;
Use the level to adjust the alignment;
A five-centimeter hole is drilled near the screws, 3 mm are removed from the screw;
Polyurethane foam is pumped into this hole, which plays the role of a retainer; regulate the foam supply process;
All sheets are fixed with foam, leveling is controlled;
After drying, the screws are removed and the holes are filled with putty.

After drying, the ceiling is completely ready for finishing.

Drywall on a wooden ceiling without a frame: does it make sense?

It involves attaching sheets directly to the ceiling. This is a method that requires a minimum of costs, both financial and time. At the same time, the height of the room is maintained.

But what are the disadvantages of such a mount:

A high-quality initial foundation - this condition is not always available before work, and without it such fastening will not be reliable;
Not all wood “loves” hardware; some wood simply does not stick;
The natural movement of wood causes drywall to deform.

In the latter case, the seams may come apart. In a word, this method is only good for a flat ceiling made of very good wood. GCR can be glued to the ceiling or attached to self-tapping screws. But in most cases, when making such repairs, they still tend to use the frame method.

Fastening gypsum boards to the ceiling using mastic

This method is far from the most common. You can't do it this way multi-level ceiling, just as you won’t be able to hide communications under it. But gypsum mastic is still used, and in some cases it is a pretty good solution.

When working with mastic, remember:

To make it more convenient to attach the sheet to it, you will have to cut it into 2-3, and sometimes into 4 parts;
You need to apply mastic in small portions, first of all at the edges, and only then in the center;
Without preliminary preparation The ceiling surface cannot be avoided here either - and this is cleaning and priming.

And yet, these methods are possible in rare cases; if the ceiling is significantly leveled, they are impossible.

Plasterboard ceiling without profiles (video)

You can do without building a frame if you use the dry plaster method. This is fixing sheets of drywall directly to the ceiling by drilling a hole, screwing in fasteners, and pouring foam. Sometimes the slabs are attached directly to glue, or to gypsum mastic.

If a home renovation is planned, leveling the ceiling is inevitable. In some cases, the ceiling is so distorted that no amount of plaster will help. Then most often they resort to leveling the ceiling with plasterboard.

Not many people know how to level a ceiling with plasterboard. But in fact, this process can be completed independently, without turning to specialists for help.

The technology for leveling the ceiling with plasterboard is reliable and simple. It has the following advantages:

1. Drywall installation has minimal lines.

2. There are no wet processes.

3. It is possible to use the space between the base and the mounted plasterboard ceiling (laying sound insulation and communication networks).

4. The ability to implement any design solution.

5. No special tools are required for installation.

6. Waste is minimal.

Repair to level the ceiling consists of two main stages - the stage of constructing a metal frame and the stage of sheathing with plasterboard.

ALIGNING THE CEILING WITH YOUR OWN HANDS: PREPARATORY STAGE

Leveling the ceiling with plasterboard should begin with the calculation of materials. Calculation of materials will minimize the percentage of waste. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the position of the sheets. It can be longitudinal or transverse. Cross connections are not allowed!

Repair (leveling) of the ceiling begins with the construction of a metal frame. First you need to make markings. The plane of the future frame is marked using a level. From the very top you should measure the specified size (usually a few centimeters), then attach a level to the wall and draw a line with a pencil. This procedure must be done along the entire perimeter of the repair area. If the starting line exactly matches the ending line, then the job is done perfectly.

Then, you need to screw screws into the resulting lines and tighten the cords. This will be a kind of plasterboard ceiling level. Instead of cords, you can immediately install a metal guide profile around the perimeter of the room.

Then the supporting profiles are installed. Bearers metal profiles inserted into the guides, observing a step of 40 cm. It is very important to observe their location in relation to future sheets of plasterboard. Simply put, the profile should be located along the length of the plasterboard sheet.

To prevent the ceiling leveling repair from having to be redone, jumpers should be installed. This will prevent the seams from cracking, and will also make the frame more rigid, and therefore more reliable. Jumpers are installed around the entire perimeter of the room in increments of 50 cm. They are fastened using cross-shaped connectors.

Then the entire frame must be fixed to the floor slabs. This can be done using brackets, boots, and quick hangers.

Before you begin the next step, “leveling the plasterboard ceiling,” check whether the metal carcass electrical wiring, communications, air ducts, as well as insulating material.

ALIGNING THE CEILING WITH YOUR OWN HANDS: INSTALLATION STAGE

Having calculated all the materials, decided on the location of the plasterboard sheets, and installed the metal frame, you can begin to solve the problem of how to level the ceiling with plasterboard.

Leveling the ceiling with plasterboard is the easiest, most uncomplicated job. The installation stage is as follows: you need to lift a sheet of plasterboard to the ceiling and secure it to a metal frame using self-tapping screws. To level the ceiling with plasterboard, a sheet of gypsum must be fixed both along the supporting profile and along the guide, observing a step of 15 cm.

Repair (leveling) of the ceiling is completed by masking the joints. To make the seams invisible, they must first be secured with assembly gauze, onto which a layer of putty is then applied.

Thus, this article reveals the question of how to level a ceiling with plasterboard, what materials are needed for this, and what sequence of work is necessary. Using this step by step instructions, it is possible to level the ceiling with plasterboard on your own.

Probably everyone knows how crooked the ceilings in our apartments can be. If the differences between the floor slabs are insignificant, then they can be successfully leveled using a thin layer of plaster or putty. But in the case of large curvatures, when we are talking about differences in slabs exceeding 3 cm, the plaster will not the best way solutions to the problem - such layers of solution may one day simply fall on your head. The only way out of this situation is to level the ceiling with plasterboard. It is this question that we will consider today on the “Dream House” website. Having studied all the intricacies of this work with the help of this master class, we will learn how to install a flat plasterboard ceiling with our own hands.

Leveling the ceiling with drywall is not so complex process, and you can completely try to do this yourself. For convenience and a more correct understanding of the entire technology, we will divide it into two main stages - the construction of a metal frame and the subsequent one.

How to level the ceiling in an apartment with plasterboard: assembling the frame

When approaching the question of how to level the ceiling yourself, you should understand the importance of correctly assembling the metal frame for plasterboard - the reliability, durability and evenness of the structure as a whole depends on it. The frame assembled from profiles is 80% of the work done.

At the first stage of constructing the frame, it is necessary to mark the level of the position of the future ceiling. The plane is set using a hydraulic or laser level. There is no other way - if you get attached to existing walls or floor slabs, you will get a curve.

To avoid fiddling around with marking the ceiling for a long time, use a level to mark the plane of the frame in all corners of the room. After this, we arm ourselves with a tapping thread and connect all these points with horizontal lines.

The ceiling plane is set, now you can proceed to further work. On next stage Leveling the ceiling with your own hands involves installing uv guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels or self-tapping screws relative to marked lines along the entire perimeter of the room. For ease of use, guide profiles should be placed above the marked line.

How to level the ceiling

We move on, and at the next stage, solving the question of how to properly level the ceiling with plasterboard involves installing load-bearing cd profiles. The principle of their installation is quite simple - they are inserted into guide profiles with a pitch of 400mm. The direction of their installation must correspond to the position of the drywall sheets. Let's just say they should be located along the length of the sheet. If the length of the supporting profiles is not enough, then, if necessary, they can be extended using CD connectors.

When wondering how to level a ceiling with your own hands, you should understand that installed load-bearing profiles will not be enough. And in order to give the frame rigidity and prevent cracking of the seams in the future, it is additionally necessary to install jumpers. Their installation is carried out in 500mm increments along the entire plane of the future ceiling.

The jumpers are fastened using crab or cross-shaped CD connectors. It is better to install them in advance and secure them with self-tapping screws in all provided places (and these are 8 attachment points).

Once the crabs are in place, the jumpers can be cut and installed. As a result of all efforts, a metal frame should be obtained with a lathing pitch of 400 by 500 mm at the centers of the profiles.

We move on and fix the ceiling to the floor slabs. There are quite a lot of fasteners used to level the ceiling with plasterboard yourself - the frame can be hung on U-shaped brackets, boots made from ud guide profiles, or, as in our master class, quick hangers. The latter are used when there is a large distance between the floors and the frame. By the way, quick hangers are very convenient - with their help, leveling the frame in a plane is not difficult.

So, we install quick hangers with a pitch of 600mm along the entire length of each profile. The hangers are attached to the ceilings with dowels through a special eyelet located on the spoke of this product, and in the profile they are simply wedged with a turn.

How to properly level the ceiling

The next step in solving the question of how to level an uneven ceiling will be its leveling - the frame must be installed in accordance with the plane marked at the initial stage of work. For this purpose, either a long level or threads stretched across the supporting profiles are used. Adjusting the hangers is very simple - the spring with which the quick hangers are equipped is compressed by hand, after which the profile is set to the required position. Here you need to try very hard and achieve an almost ideal position of the cd profiles in the plane - none of them should be higher or lower than the guides fixed to the walls.

Leveling the ceiling with your own hands

How to level a ceiling with plasterboard: covering the frame

Sheathing the frame with sheets of plasterboard is the easiest task in solving the issue of leveling the ceiling. The only difficulty that arises when covering the frame is the dimensions of the plasterboard sheets - here you will need an assistant. In principle, it is quite possible to cope with this task together. We lift the plaster sheet to the ceiling and fasten it with metal screws ø3.5mm and 25mm long along all installed profiles without exception. The gypsum must be fixed both along the supporting profiles and along the guides with a pitch of 150mm.

If you look at the sheet of drywall, you will see that the factory edges are made a little thinner than the entire body. This is done for subsequent high-quality sealing of seams. Keep in mind that all hand-cut drywall edges must be hemmed, i.e. cut the chamfer. Only in this case, when sealing the joints, they will not crack during the operation of the ceiling.

This is how you can level a plasterboard ceiling yourself. Difficult? Judge for yourself. In any case, the information presented above will be useful. Even if you are not going to level the ceiling yourself, but consider it necessary to hire specialists for this work, you will always be able to control their work.

A perfectly flat ceiling, on which there is simply nothing for the eye to catch on - isn’t this the dream of many residential property owners? Many of us place increased demands on premises, and appearance The ceiling here is far from the least important. One solution is a plasterboard ceiling. In this article, we will install a plasterboard ceiling step by step without the help of professional repairmen.

GCRs are used for ceilings for many reasons. They allow you to create a perfectly flat surface and hide all cracks or irregularities on the base ceiling from prying eyes. Moreover, such material allows you to effectively hide communications, from the pipeline to the wiring. We just have to figure out how to attach it to the ceiling.

Variety of ceiling designs

In fact, the use of plasterboard sheets opens up the world to us limitless possibilities. With this simple and affordable finishing material you can realize your wildest fantasies. Thanks to it you can make single-level or two-level ceilings, effectively install spotlights that will not only become a practical component, but will also add their own zest to the design of the room. Having decided to use it to level the walls and ceiling, it is better to leave the installation of drywall on the walls “for second”.

Naturally, for different rooms fits different material: for residential premises - regular gypsum board, for “wet” - gypsum board, i.e. moisture resistant. So, for most premises in suitable for apartment regular material, but if you want to make a ceiling in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet, then it is better to choose moisture-resistant material for these purposes.

Self-installation of sheets with an existing frame takes a few hours. The whole difficulty lies in creating the maximum solid foundation, different high strength. Otherwise, our drywall will sag over time, forming cracks at the joints - not a pleasant sight. Therefore, let’s think about how and with what to attach the plasterboard frame to the ceiling (read more about this design here). A lot here depends on what building materials the ceiling is made of. If this wooden floor, then we use wood screws as fasteners, and dowels for concrete.

Required tools and materials

To do this, we will need a hammer drill, a screwdriver, dowels, screws for wood and metal, a level, a tape measure, a pencil, metal scissors, hangers, a set of profiles (starting, supporting, longitudinal) - from these we will assemble a frame onto which the fastening will be carried out finishing material, gypsum board with parameters 2500x1200x9.5 mm (or width multiple of 400 mm), plane, cladding cutting knife, putty.

Plasterboard for ceiling

Depending on the purpose, material thicknesses range from 6.5 to 12.5 mm. If the first type is mainly used in the manufacture of curved surfaces, then the second is most often used when leveling walls. As for sheets for finishing the ceiling, it is better to choose a material with a thickness of 9.5 mm. As a rule, this is what is called “ceiling”. It is quite possible to get by and wall material, only it should be taken into account that it is heavier, therefore the requirements for the frame are more stringent: more fastenings and profiles.

Ceiling markings

The first thing you need to decide is the indentation of the future ceiling from the base one. You may need to hide some communications, then increase the width of the opening accordingly. Usually 100-200 mm are left between the ceiling and the ceiling. Considering that not all ceilings can boast of matching the horizontal, we determine its lowest corner, and from there, taking into account the difference in height, we begin to measure the distance from the base ceiling. As a result, our premises must be outlined along the perimeter, the horizon of each area must be ideal and verified. After this, you can begin attaching the guide profile according to these marks. It is advisable to maintain a spacing between fasteners of no more than 400 mm. If we need a box on the ceiling, then we need to foresee its presence in advance and attach an additional guide profile in the selected location.

Next, you need to mark the ceiling for installing hangers. To do this, parallel lines are drawn with a pencil across the room in increments of 400 mm. After this, marks are made on the first line in increments of 500 mm, on the second line the first mark is made 250 mm from the wall, and then at intervals of 500 mm. On the third line, marks are again made in increments of 500 mm, etc. The marks should be staggered. This is done in order to ensure maximum rigidity and strength of the frame, which will be attached to the ceiling in these places. When the markings are finished, you can build the frame.

Frame installation

Important! In fact, the technology for fastening the frame at home allows for a lot of deviations. So, instead of hangers, you can use the same guide profile, curved in the shape of the letter “L”. The distance between profile sections in the frame can also be different. The most important thing is that the frame for the ceiling is strong, and everything else is trifles.

At the marked points on the ceiling it is necessary to secure the suspensions. This can be done using the same self-tapping screws or dowels - it depends on the surface. Next, the supporting profiles must be adjusted to the width of the room and the so-called starting frame previously fixed around the perimeter. To do this, measure the width of the room, measure approximately the same length (but 10 mm shorter) supporting profiles and cut required amount elements. After this, you can make the ceiling: the supporting profiles are inserted into the hangers and attached to them with metal screws. At this stage, it is very important to control the strict horizontality of the supporting profile. Otherwise, the ceiling will not please us with a perfectly flat surface. Correction of the horizontal position of the profile is carried out by changing the fastening positions. For greater accuracy when checking the horizontal position of the profile, it is best to use a laser level.

Transverse profiles alone will not be enough to securely fasten the trim. To enhance the rigidity of the frame structure, it is necessary to further strengthen it with longitudinal elements. The same guide profile is used, cut into pieces 400 mm long. They are attached to the transverse profile at a distance of 500 mm from each other using special crab fasteners. Instead of the latter, you can use small pieces left over when attaching the starting frame (the one that goes along the perimeter of the room). The location of the longitudinal profile must be such that the edges of the mounted sheets fall in the middle of the guide profile. Let's move on to solving perhaps the simplest question: how to sheathe the ceiling?

Attachment to frame

When the frame is ready and its horizontalness has been checked more than once, you can begin installing the sheets. For this procedure, you will need at least two people: one to fasten it, the other to hold it in place. The sheets must be installed close to the walls, butt to each other, across the longitudinal profiles. If necessary, they are cut into pieces in accordance with the parameters of the frame. This is done using a knife, and the cut is additionally processed with a plane. The gypsum board must be secured to the frame with metal screws for every 200 mm of the profile. The screw caps should not be deeply recessed into the material, because in this case the rigidity of the fastener is lost. There is very little left: puttying of the surface finished with plasterboard, or rather the joints and fastening points of the trim and frame, as well as finishing.

Ceiling putty

To ensure maximum adhesion between the putty and the cardboard surface, it is best to use self-adhesive tape. It is glued to the places where screws are screwed in, as well as to the joints between sheets. After this, they begin to putty. How to putty such a surface? Just like any other - carefully and leaving no chance for unevenness: apply the composition with a wide spatula, wait until the putty dries and sand it with fine sandpaper. After this, you can paint the ceiling, glue wallpaper on it - here everyone chooses what their heart desires. If everything is done in good faith, then such a ceiling will serve you faithfully for many years.

Are your ceiling design issues resolved? It's time to take care of floor insulation. In one of the following articles we will examine this problem in detail.

Cost of making ceilings

Name of works	Cost of work per 1 m2, rub.	Cost of materials per 1 m2, rub.	Total, rub.
Plasterboard ceilings
with 1 layer covering, on a metal frame	420	300	720
with 2-layer sheathing, on a metal frame	500	370	870
Prices for elements of the second level of the ceiling
Box rectangular section on the ceiling (size 500 mm*500 mm)	from 370		after measurements
Curvilinear ceiling element (or the end part of a straight ceiling)	from 400	depends on size and design	after measurements
Ceiling cornice (element with hidden lighting)	from 500	depends on size and design	after measurements
Possible works
Soundproofing mineral wool, thickness 50 mm	50	70	130
Painting work (preparation for painting, painting)	400	220	640