How to properly build a wooden house from logs. Modern technology for assembling a log house from rounded logs

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, a log is also suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His topic collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

• Eco-hut.
• Preparation.
• Foundation.
• Box.
• Roof.
• Interior work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 User FORUMHOUSE

The dream of building has long crept in wooden house– environmentally friendly, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other “benefits” of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable home, suitable for winter driving and year-round residence, therefore, shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of the past centuries were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the design:

• Pile foundation.
• Box made of hand-cut logs.
• Metal roofing.
• Sawdust with and sawdust with lime are used as insulation for floors.

Preparation

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden cabin and toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman set his sights on a one-and-a-half-story log house, 8x9 meters, with five rooms, but as he began to think about it, a completely different design emerged. I refused the second floor, even though it was an attic, both due to my reluctance to do staircase fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with the planned stove heating there will be a large temperature difference between the levels. Plus, it’s problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with a ceiling and a cold attic it is much easier. Next it was the turn of quadrature, and the result of the selection optimal layout became a project for a 6x6 meter log house, with a set of functional rooms.

The vital meters needed for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings on operation by reducing heating costs, and the specifics of a dacha - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping.” However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned log cutting into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, but a seven-meter log is much more expensive, and only a few people work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but the “dovetail” with a crossover is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.

Foundation

Preference screw piles was given due to the desire to try the “ultra-modern solution” and save money, as well as due to the speed and relative simplicity installation A total of nine piles were screwed in - three points of support for each load-bearing beam, pile diameter 108 mm, thickness – 4 mm. Despite some problems when installing piles and the flimsiness of the coating, which is positioned as durable protective layer, but in fact, it can be easily removed with a fingernail, and the craftsman is pleased with the choice. Moreover, perhaps the bathhouse will also be placed on stilts, although he admits that a tape or slab “will be more reliable.”

Box

The frame was collected using moss that had been ordered in advance from another region; before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since when it was delivered it was still fresh and had not dried out much during the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. Making log partitions turned out to be problematic due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team delivered and in another day assembled just a box, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely all over the walls, it took significantly less than planned, as practice has shown - they obviously did not report it.

To dry the log house, they cut out ventilation holes size 30x30 cm, with grill. To everyone who is just in the process, mike099 advises making more of them. Curling ( primary caulking cutting the log house with moss) was already working on his own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, cutting off the excess with a stationery knife.

Roof

From popular now soft tiles the craftsman refused for several reasons.

mike099

I rejected the soft roof immediately, due to its less environmental friendliness and higher price. The binders, the basis of soft tiles, are far from natural materials. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a smooth flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore I preferred metal tiles, imitating a ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of sub-rafter elements there is a central supporting ridge beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50×50 mm), lathing with pitch to match the covering profile (35 cm). As planned, the eaves overhangs are 70 cm long; in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the frame “under the roof”, I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary flashings made of waterproofing along the ends, cracks of the flashings and at the junction of the frame and trim. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemicals, I had to treat the imitation timber gables with protective impregnation.

Interior work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the timber; I wanted to maintain the style, but processing a log now is not a cheap pleasure, just like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board, 50 mm thick, covering the cracks unedged board 25 mm thick, all lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. To avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two support logs go through the ceiling.

I made some of the openings myself, as specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The frame was made simple, rough T-shaped: the grooves in the log were marked with a saw, the main cutting was done with a milling cutter. I laid a 50x50 mm dry block with linen tape (insulation) and attached a box of 200x50 mm boards to it with self-tapping screws.

Another relief in favor modern materials – steel door and two plastic windows, wooden Euro windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows himself, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory quality, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal despite the high labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. The foundation under the furnace is 1.7 m deep, reinforcement cage, two m³ of concrete.

As the subfloor dried, it showed cracks; I had to cover them with strips; before adding sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Before laying, the sawdust was flavored with lime and carefully compacted. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman installed communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warping of the floor after drying for just one day and the falling out of knots. The result is the opening of the coating and re-installation, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with an insulated underground - metal carcass along the perimeter of the base, to it, XPS, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn on the site was right under the log house, and the base was later lined basement siding under brickwork.

Sanding logs mike099 started on my own, first with the help of an eccentric grinding machine. It turned out to be rather weak, so we replaced it with a grinder, first I used a wheel with 80 grain, the second pass - with 120-150 grain. The vacuum cleaner alone collected 200 liters of waste, but it was worth it.

Over the past decades, construction has become the most widespread wooden houses from logs. At first glance, installing such houses is not difficult, but this is not so. In fact, the process requires that the technology for assembling a log house from rounded logs be followed.

A log house is a wall structure made of horizontally connected logs.

Basically, log houses are assembled in winter time years, and by spring the walls will be ready. The house should be ready by autumn natural shrinkage, which requires a warm period. Well, then you can start finishing work.

Main characteristics of assembling a log house from rounded logs

In construction, a log house is a structure of walls made of horizontally connected logs. One laid row is called a crown. The lowest row is a frame crown, and subsequent crowns are mounted on it. For the very first row, it is best to use larch wood, as it has the greatest strength and is the best option for these purposes.

A rectangular log house consisting of four walls is called a four-wall building, and if the walls are complemented by a partition, it is called a five-wall building. In a design without partitions, the frame is tied only at the corners, and the five-wall structure also has an internal T-shaped connection between the partition and the outer structure.

The base of the log house, made of rounded logs, is mounted in a horizontal position from coniferous or hardwood wood. For construction, it is recommended to use wood harvested in winter and freshly cut, since such material will contain little water and is easy to process, and also has the least shrinkage, deformation and is less susceptible to rotting. If the choice was made in favor coniferous species, then the best option would be pine wood rather than spruce, since pine logs have a long service life and have less resin content.

The most difficult thing is to bandage the outer corners. There are two main types of dressings:

• with the remainder. In this case, the ends of the logs protrude beyond the corners (into the “bowl”);
• without a trace (in the “paw”).

Basically there is no difference between the masonry. In current buildings, the most common method of installation is “in a bowl”.

Required Tools

• axe;
• plane;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• square;
• hammer;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaw, chainsaw, etc.

Principles of assembling a log house from rounded logs

Before starting work, it is necessary to sort the logs, and the following must be observed: temperature regime. If in winter period the temperature is not lower than -30 °C, then logs can be used with a cross-section of 22-24 cm, and in regions with a more severe climate - 26 cm or more.

When choosing logs, it is important to ensure that there are no rotten areas or similar defects. Logs with visible deformation should not be used. If the logs are short, they are spliced ​​using a vertical ridge. To do this, the connecting ends of the logs are cut perpendicular to the axis.

A groove is marked on the log, and a ridge is marked on the second log, knocked out with a chisel. The dimensions of the groove should not exceed one third of the cross-section of the log. It is recommended that the bottom row and the top crown be selected to the required length; if this is not possible, then they are fused with a tooth at a right or oblique angle.

It is necessary to re-check the length of the logs. The partition inside the log house is connected to the outer wall by a vertical ridge, which is usually called a “frying pan”; it has widened ends. In logs outer wall special grooves must be cut out. When one side of the comb is made at a right angle, it is called a "half-fry" and is usually used in a cross joint.

On the finished foundation, it is necessary to lay a board impregnated with bitumen, which has a thickness of 5 cm and a width of 15 cm. A flashing crown is pressed onto the board from the bottom side. The following crowns are laid, which must be adjusted if necessary. When laying logs, you need to periodically check the horizontality and verticality of the logs.

Marking and cutting down the log house “in the paw”.

The crowns must be fastened with wooden dowels, observing a checkerboard pattern, which have a cross-section of 2 cm, with a pitch of about 2 m between them. At least 2 dowels are installed in the walls. with an interval of 20 cm, starting from the edge of the wall.

When installing crowns, do not forget about window and doorways, according to the drawing. When laying the covering crown, the opening is sawed down using a plumb line. The ends are processed and end with a vertical ridge. Mounting into doorways and window boxes, you need to leave about 5 cm on top for shrinkage. It is important to remember that in the opening, the logs both below and above should not have a ridge.

Once the house is installed and the walls are fully assembled, caulking is carried out. To do this, use tow, hemp, flax or felt. Modern technology assembly involves the use special materials, placed between the logs during assembly. Thanks to this, it is possible to better insulate the seams between logs.

Once the log house made from rounded logs is fully installed, it is not touched until it shrinks for about six months. During this time, the log house can shrink by about 12 cm.

It is important to know that the dowels and tenons should not reach the bottom of the socket 15-20 mm; this is necessary for proper shrinkage of the rounded log frame.

But by introducing modern technologies, it is possible to reduce the shrinkage time of the structure. You can mount a flashing crown through which all the studs pass, with a cross-section of 12 mm and a length of about 1 m. They are lowered to the ground. At the bottom of the stud there is a washer, 3 mm thick, and a nut. But it is necessary to take into account that the stud should not come into contact with the foundation. Subsequent crowns are laid. The stud must be raised tightly, and nuts are screwed onto the protruding part - couplings no less than 6 cm long, into which subsequent studs are screwed. After the topmost crown is mounted, using wrench All studs around the perimeter are tightened.

If you measure the height of the log house before and after tightening, you can make sure that shrinkage has occurred with the logs.

After this, you can continue to assemble the log house. Such a house will be durable and will not fall apart even during an earthquake; therefore, such an assembly is used in seismic zones.

How to avoid mistakes when installing a log house from rounded logs?

Many people cannot imagine what the technology of assembling a log house is, all the nuances of the process. This is important for monitoring the installation, since the consequences of poorly performed work can bring a lot of trouble, including the unsuitability of the log house for habitation.

It is important to know:

After building a log house, there are uncleaned areas of bark left on the logs, which will begin to darken over time, so the log house must be sanded.

1. The permissible moisture content of the material should not exceed 20%. But there are cases when log houses are assembled from logs with high humidity, which is above 60%, this means that the forest was practically only cut down. Such material can lead to deformation and severe cracking of the logs, as well as to the appearance of inter-crown cracks and gaps in the locking part. Humidity leads to rotting and the formation of mold and fungal deposits. Checking the moisture content of the material is not difficult; you just need to purchase a moisture meter. Its price is not so high compared to the losses that may arise when building from low-quality material.
2. An important factor is the processing of all wooden structures antiseptic, bioseptic and fire retardant, since mold will subsequently be very difficult to fight, and fungus can turn a building into dust in a short time.
3. Before installation, it would be useful to check the logs for straightness. The sag should not exceed 3 mm; if it exists, then it is better to discard this material, since it will be difficult to join the crowns. The first crown must be firmly connected to the base, into which steel pins are first placed, and the crowns are tightened together with dowels. If the technology is not followed, cracks will form and the frame may become loose.
4. The rims must not be allowed to touch loosely over the entire plane. To correct this flaw, you will subsequently have to dismantle the entire frame; therefore, it is necessary to check the installation from the first rows.

A few words in conclusion

The assembly of a log house from rounded logs has a decent interior appearance, and therefore the houses do not require additional decoration. Wood material can be covered thin layer varnish that will perform protective function from influences environment and emphasizes the naturalness of wood.

Technology for assembling a log house from rounded logs.

Technology Withconstruction of houses from rounded logs combines both time-tested techniques and the latest achievements modern science, and has its own characteristics. That's why assembly of a log house should be carried out by specialists with experience in wooden house construction.

After constructing and waterproofing the foundation, antiseptic backing boards are laid (see photo below).

Sbo arch of the log house walls should be carried out according to assembly drawings ( development of wall elements). Before laying the logs, inter-crown insulation is attached to the longitudinal groove - jute fabric 5 mm thick and 200 mm wide, bending the edges of the jute inward and straightening it on the cup (Fig. 2). Jute fabric contains lignin (20%), this practically corresponds to the lignin content in wood. During the construction of a house, the walls shrink, compacting jute fabric, which, when gluing fibers with lignin, acquires the required density and solidity, as well as increased resistance to moisture.

Log crowns fasten together wooden dowels in a checkerboard pattern every 1-1.5 m, which ensures the strength of the structure and prevents the logs from moving relative to each other (Figure 3). Section dowel there must be square shape, which provides a smaller contact area between the dowel and the hole in log and protects the log house from hanging logs.

Splicing of logs along the length is done in splits, fastening the joint with steel staples or pins. This nuance may not be noticeable to the Customer, but if this is not done, then after shrinkage, cold bridges - gaps - will form between the logs in the joints, which can lead to a loss of thermal conductivity resistance.

After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of floor beams is carried out. The cross-section and pitch of the floor beams are selected depending on the span length and load. Floor beams are cut into the wall (Figure 4) or secured with special metal supports, pendants.

During installation rafter system must be taken into account design features wooden buildings- their “mobility” and shrinkage (Figure 5).

September 1, 2017
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

Construction technology

The process of building a log house can be divided into five main stages:

Stage 1: project preparation

Designing a log house, in fact, does not contain any nuances. At this stage, as with the construction of any other house, you need to clearly imagine what the building will be like and then draw it on paper.

If you can’t decide on a layout, take it as a basis finished projects houses on our portal.

When the dimensions and layout of the future house are known, you need to decide on the type of roof. I can personally recommend building mansard roof. This will allow you to expand at least one and a half times usable area home with virtually no increase in construction costs.

When the project is ready, count the amount of materials and draw up a diagram.

Step 2: Which log to use

Before purchasing materials, beginners are usually tormented by the question - which log is better to build a house from, rounded or chopped? The rounded log has an exact shape and diameter; in addition, there is a groove in the lower part, which simplifies the laying of logs and prevents the formation of gaps between the crowns.

A chopped or debarked log has a bottom layer of bark. Thanks to the resin that coats it, it is more resistant to moisture and rot. But on the other hand, the shape of such a log is less even, which somewhat complicates construction. So does it make sense to build a house from chopped logs?

It's up to you to decide, of course. The only thing I note is that currently there are all kinds of protective impregnations, which make any wood moisture-resistant and resistant to negative biological influences.

Keep in mind that to build walls, in addition to logs, you will need other materials:

• Pins for connecting the crowns of the house to each other;
• Mezhventsovy thermal insulation material.

Stage 3: building the foundation

The construction of a strip foundation usually takes about a third of the total budget allocated for the construction of a house. Besides, strip foundation takes at least a month of time, or even more. Since wooden housing is light in weight, in most cases it is more advisable to build a columnar foundation.

Its principle is to erect block or brick columns on a sand-crushed stone bed. The distance between the posts, which are installed in rows, is one and a half to two meters. From above, all the columns are connected by a grillage (beams).

For unstable soils and uneven areas better use pile-screw foundation. The principle of its design is even simpler - metal drill piles are screwed into the ground, which are connected on top by beams.

The price of these foundations is an order of magnitude less than a strip foundation. However, they have one significant drawback- do not allow you to make a basement or cellar under the house. Therefore, to build an underground room, you will still have to make a strip foundation.

No matter what kind of foundation you build, be sure to produce it horizontal waterproofing to protect walls from moisture.

Stage 4: building walls

After preparing the foundation, we proceed to the main stage - the construction of the log walls. The instructions look like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Laying the first crown: Prepare a log along the length of the future building; Cut the log lengthwise into two equal parts; Place the two halves on the foundation on two opposite sides; Make sure that the halves are laid strictly parallel to each other, and secure them to the foundation with studs or anchors; Then prepare two whole logs, make bowls (grooves) in them for the longitudinal halves of the logs and lay them across the transverse halves; Secure the logs to the foundation with anchors; The first row of internal partition logs can be laid immediately; Also at this stage the floor beams are cut into place.
	Laying subsequent crowns: Now you need to lay the logs onto the longitudinal halves with your own hands, cutting out bowls for the transverse logs. Thus, alternating the laying of transverse and longitudinal logs, crown after crown is erected, and the walls are raised to the required height. The only thing is, do not forget to lay inter-crown insulation between each crown; After laying the third transverse row, drill holes in the logs along the diameter of the dowels with a depth to the middle of the first crown. Make the hole spacing about one and a half meters. Then insert dowels into the holes. After laying the fifth crown, install dowels in the longitudinal logs in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the diagram. Thus, install dowels in transverse and longitudinal logs through a row. The dowels should fit into the holes freely enough so that they do not get “bitten” when the house shrinks.
	Cutting openings: Mark the location of all openings; To the left and right of the openings, temporarily fasten the crowns with boards so that they do not fall apart; Cut out the openings chain saw as shown in the photo; Secure the logs in the openings with boxes and remove the temporary boards.

At this point, the construction of the walls is completed.

Stage 5: erecting the roof

Now you need to lay the floors and install the roof. Work should begin with the gables, which are built from logs in a “pyramid” manner according to the same principle as the walls. To connect them and give rigidity to the structure, several purlins should be used.

Further work is carried out as standard, i.e. as with the construction of any other houses.

Conclusion

We figured out the main points of construction timber house, otherwise you shouldn’t have any problems. The only thing I recommend is to additionally watch the video in this article. If you haven’t found the answer to any of your questions, leave it in the comments and I will be happy to answer you.

September 1, 2017

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Despite the abundance building materials, many developers during the construction own home prefer traditional natural materials- timber, log. However, it will not be possible to install a house from ordinary untreated logs without the help of specialists. Another thing is the construction of houses from rounded logs, here you can do all the work yourself if you have minimal skills in handling carpenter's tool. In our article we will look at the features and sequence of installation of a rounded house.

Preparatory stage

It is better to order the project from the appropriate organization, since even at the design stage it is necessary to take into account many nuances, from the shrinkage of the house to the calculation of the thickness of the walls, taking into account the climate.

For a log house it is very important to choose quality material. It is better to buy logs prepared in a factory. There are several reasons for this:

1. Blanks that have undergone special testing chamber drying, will give minimal shrinkage (up to 1%), while the shrinkage of products natural humidity can reach up to 10%.
2. Moreover, factory blanks undergo special treatment with antiseptics and fire retardants, so you will not need to do it on site before installation.
3. It is quite difficult to perfectly accurately make a mounting longitudinal groove on your own. For factory products, this groove is cut on a machine, so it has correct sizes and shape.

To log house was warm, beautiful and durable, when choosing a material for the construction of a log house, you should pay attention to the following points:

• Wood shade - elements should be yellow or deep yellow.
• There should be as few knots as possible on the surface of the workpieces and a complete absence of resin pockets.
• The permissible crack size is no more than 1/3 of the diameter.
• Elements must be smooth throughout, without deformations or bends.
• When cut, the log should be quite dense and even, the core of the wood should occupy no more than ¾ of the diameter.

Advice: it is best to purchase winter wood. It has minimal humidity, so it is least susceptible to shrinkage and deformation.

• Give preference to logs made from coniferous wood growing in the northern regions of our country.
• To make embedded crowns and bindings, it is better to use larch or aspen blanks. It is the most durable, resistant to negative impacts wood.

On average, you will have to pay from 300 USD/m² to build a house from cylinders. The final price depends on the materials used, the complexity and dimensions of the building, as well as the diameter of the logs used. How larger diameter, the higher the price of the material.

Construction technology

We begin the construction of a house from rounded logs by preparing the site. The construction area must be cleared of debris and green spaces that interfere construction process. It is also necessary to allocate a site for unloading and storing the central bank, and provide access roads. A small free area should be near the future structure so that logs can be prepared and lifted up.

The most favorable time of year for building a wooden house is winter. The thing is that in winter the air is driest, so wood absorbs less moisture. As a result, a house built in winter will experience minimal shrinkage. The exception is the process of arranging the foundation. It is better to complete it before the onset of cold weather.

Attention: winter construction is beneficial only for those regions where low humidity and prolonged subzero temperatures are observed in winter.

If in your region the winters are not so severe, there is sleet and rain, then you need to equip a special shed for storing logs.

Foundation

Choosing the type of base to suit your needs wooden house should be done taking into account the characteristics of the soil, groundwater level and climate. Typically, a house made of wood is lightweight, so you can use one of following types grounds:

• shallow-buried strip structures;
• pile-screw foundation;
• strip-pile foundations;
• columnar structures;
• shallow slab foundations.

We carry out foundation work in the following sequence:

1. First of all, we carry out the markings. To do this, we use surveying tools, cord and pegs. To check the correctness of the angles (they must be 90 degrees), you need to measure the length of the diagonals. It should be the same.
2. Next, we dig a trench or pit. The depth of the foundation can be 50-100 cm; to install pile-screw and columnar structures, you need to go 1.5 m deeper.
3. At the bottom of the trench or ditch we make a cushion of a mixture of gravel and sand, which we carefully level and tamp.
4. Next, we make formwork from boards, moisture-resistant plywood or special panels. At this stage, do not forget to lay the pipes in the formwork, which will then serve as vents.
5. We make a reinforcement frame. Before installing it in the formwork, pour concrete in a layer 5 cm high. We install the frame on hardened concrete. At the same time, we make sure that the reinforcement does not approach the formwork more than 50 mm.
6. We pour the concrete and compact it.
7. After 28 days, the formwork can be dismantled and further installation work can be carried out.

Important: the height of the base must be at least 30-50 cm to protect the logs from getting wet and subsequent rotting.

Walls

Before building a house from rounded logs, you need to perform horizontal waterproofing of the base. To do this, we lay two layers of roofing material on the surface of the base. bitumen mastic. If the work will be carried out in winter, then after removing the snow, the surface of the base is warmed up with a heating pad. The waterproofing layer should protrude beyond the boundaries of the foundation on each side by 30-50 mm.

Stages of building a house made of rounded logs:

1. We make the bottom trim from wooden support beams. It is better to use blanks made from aspen or larch. Before installation, we subject the elements antiseptic treatment. We fix the beams to the base using reinforcement pins. To top it all off, we coat these beams with bitumen mastic.

Important: before final fixing the beams, you need to check their position. The difference in height can be no more than 5 mm.

1. Now we lay the embedded half-logs. The base of these elements should fit as tightly as possible, without gaps, to the support beam. That is why the lower part of the logs of the embedded crown is cut so as to ensure the tightest possible fit. First we lay two elements on opposite walls, then the other two parts. In the corners for tying the logs in the upper elements we make a groove. Place corner connection We additionally fix it with steel brackets, and fasten the logs using dowels to the support beams.
2. The sequence of laying the remaining crowns is the same as that of the embedded crown. That is, all elements are mounted on top of each other. In this case, tape insulation is attached to the longitudinal groove. The elements are connected to each other by wooden dowels, which are installed in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 1-1.5 m. Fastening element should pass through the entire upper crown and go halfway into the lower element. Before drilling holes for the dowels, the logs are temporarily connected with nails. The optimal diameter of the dowel is 20 mm. To drill holes, we use a drill 5 mm smaller in diameter than the cross-section of the dowel.

Floor and ceilings

When building a house from rounded logs with our own hands, we make wooden floor on the joists. To do this, follow the following sequence of actions:

1. Even at the stage of laying the first crown, it is necessary to cut recesses in it into which the logs can be laid. Typically, the lag pitch is 60-70 cm. The depth of the groove should be such that the lag can rest freely on the base.
2. The joists also need to be impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
3. After this we attach the lag to the bottom cranial bars. We can lay roughing boards on them.

Important: sometimes, for additional strength, support columns are made of logs, bricks or concrete under the lag beams. They go with a certain step.

1. After this, a waterproofing film is laid on top of the boards and joists. It is attached with brackets to the beams.
2. Next, thermal insulation material is placed in the spaces between the joists.
3. The entire structure is covered from above vapor barrier membrane.
4. Subfloor boards are laid.

If the house has an attic or second floor, then the floor arrangement is carried out in a similar way, with the only difference being that thermal insulation material is needed to dampen noise, and vapor and waterproofing are not used. The insertion of interfloor beams is done so that 90% of them are in the groove of the upper log and only 10% in the lower one.

Roof

When arranging the roof log house The last crown beam acts as a mauerlat. The rafters are fixed in a special way. To do this, a cutout is made in the Mauerlat at an angle, equal to the angle rafter inclination. The rafter is attached to the cutout using special metal fasteners, which can easily slide during the shrinkage of the house, maintaining the strength of the connection and the angle of inclination.

The roof assembly proceeds in the following sequence:

1. First pair rafter legs rises up and joins at the desired angle above the first gable. The pair is attached to the Mauerlat.
2. The procedure for installing the second pair of rafter legs above the second gable is carried out in a similar manner.
3. A cord is stretched between these pairs of rafter legs. All subsequent pairs of rafters are installed along it in increments of 800-900 mm.
4. All rafters are connected to each other by ridge beams.
5. Waterproofing is laid on top across the direction of the rafters. It is fixed to the rafters using a counter-lattice.
6. Next, continuous or thinned sheathing is performed. The selected roofing covering is laid.
7. WITH inside the roof needs to be insulated. To do this, thermal insulation material is laid between the rafters. The entire structure is covered with a vapor barrier membrane on top. The bottom of the roof is lined with plasterboard, clapboard or OSB.

The process of building a wooden house from rounded logs is shown in detail in the video below: