How to properly insulate a concrete ceiling in an apartment. How to insulate the ceiling of an apartment located on the top floor Insulate the ceiling in an apartment

Large heat losses in the room and cold air blowing from the ceiling are a consequence of incorrect or poor-quality thermal insulation. Heat loss through the ceiling can reach 20%, since the heated air rises, and if there is no obstacle on its way that can keep it indoors, it will be “blown out”, just like your budget. Ceiling insulation measures must be carried out during the construction of the house. But if for some reason this did not happen, or the old thermal insulation has become unusable, you will have to do everything again. What are the ways to insulate a ceiling, how best to implement them in this or that case, what materials to use - these are the main questions that arise for owners. At the same time, it is important to do everything correctly so that the insulation does not become damp, condensation does not accumulate on the surface, and mold or mildew does not appear. And for this it is necessary to understand the very essence of the work performed and the processes occurring in the insulation.

Why and how to insulate the ceiling

What is meant by ceiling insulation? If it blows from above, from the side of the ceiling, we say “we need to insulate the ceiling,” but what actions are meant by this? In fact, there are several technologies, and which one is suitable in each specific case depends on the starting conditions.

In a private house, the ceiling insulation is always done from the upper room: be it the attic, the next floor or the attic. Laying thermal insulation material on top of the ceiling or in the voids of the ceiling ensures heat retention inside the room. At the same time, the height of the insulated room does not decrease, additional finishing of the ceiling is not required, and there is no need to install thermal insulation directly above the head, because it is not so easy to fix, and particles will penetrate into the living room. But the most important thing is that the processes occurring in the ceiling and thermal insulation material ensure warmth and dryness of the room and materials, condensation does not form and the insulation does not get wet.

What is the principle of attic insulation? It's no secret that the best insulation is air. All modern thermal insulation materials are essentially air enclosed in one way or another in a form. But how can you use air for insulation without paying for it? Our ancestors acted very wisely when they built houses with a gable roof and an extremely cold attic, which had two windows in the gables. Our climate allows us to play this situation to our advantage. Gable roof It retains snow well, which is also insulation. A roof covered with snow retains heat so well that even if it is -25 °C outside, the temperature inside the attic is about 0 °C. The air trapped in the attic is an ideal insulator, the characteristics of which can be changed depending on the time of year or weather by opening and closing gable windows and ventilating the room. The attic floor was always insulated with bulk natural materials, together with the air, this made it possible to maintain the temperature inside the heated room at +20 - +25 °C. Another advantage of insulating the floor in the attic is that the material does not become damp and can be dried by ventilating the room.

Extremely important! In order for the attic to serve as a heat insulator, the roof slope cannot be insulated from the inside. This will cause the snow on the roof to melt and icicles to form on the eaves. In addition, the structure of a non-insulated roof is always open for inspection and repair.

Important! An attic that is insulated on all sides and has heating is no longer an attic. This is an attic, more suitable for the climate of warm countries Western Europe. The design and operation of the attic has its own rules.

In the apartment multi-storey building everything is a little different. It is not possible to insulate the ceiling or floor of the upper floor. And the problem of a drafty ceiling most often occurs among residents of the top floor. What to do? The only option is to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the room, although this is not recommended, there is no other choice.

When insulating the ceiling, it is important to remember this rule: each subsequent layer in the direction from the room must have greater vapor permeability.

Below we will look separately at ways to insulate an attic from the outside and inside.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside (from the upper room)

Insulating the ceiling from the upper room involves laying heat-insulating material on top of the ceiling or in its voids, if any. As mentioned above, this is done in private houses and cottages. The type of insulation material and the technology for laying it depend on whether the floor is wooden or concrete. For flooring on beams, which is wooden floor on joists, lightweight backfill materials or roll-type materials are suitable. But for insulating a concrete slab, dense mats or slabs, as well as heavy backfill materials, are used.

One of the most ancient and time-tested methods of ceiling insulation is insulating the attic with sawdust. In some regions, you can buy sawdust for next to nothing or even get it for free if there is a woodworking plant nearby. Quite often, the company itself does not know where to put the sawdust, so stop by and take it at least every year. It is better to add sawdust from above wooden floors.

The only drawback this method the fact that the sawdust burns. Therefore, several in various ways insulation with sawdust.

Method 1. All the cracks in wooden floor coat the attic with clay, a little liquid. Sprinkle sand on top. If the clay suddenly cracks somewhere, sand will immediately be poured into the crack, and the integrity will be preserved. To protect sawdust from mice, add a layer of slaked lime mixed with carbide. Next comes the main layer - sawdust. For different regions the thickness of this layer can be different, but the minimum is 150 - 200 mm, 250 - 300 mm is considered optimal. Since sawdust is a flammable material, a thin layer of waste slag is sprinkled on top of it, especially around hot communications - a chimney, for example. Nothing is laid on top. You can only lay out the boards for ease of walking in the attic.

Method 2. The floor surface must be protected from moisture. This can be done in two ways: the first is to lay a waterproofing film on the wooden floor that can allow steam to pass through from the side of the room, the second is to coat the entire floor with clay in the same way as in the first method. Then you need to mix sawdust with cement. To do this, take 10 parts of sawdust, approximately 1 - 2 parts of cement and 1.5 parts of water. First, sawdust is mixed with cement, then water is added. The sawdust must be slightly wet for the cement to adhere to it. The resulting mixture can be poured from above onto the attic floor or poured between the floor beams onto the subfloor. A layer of 200 mm will be enough. It is necessary to start doing all this work in the spring, so that the sawdust and cement have time to dry well over the summer (they take a long time to dry).

Important! It’s easy to check whether the sawdust has dried or not: just walk on it. Dried sawdust will not sag, but will slightly crunch.

Method 3. Similar to the second method. Only instead of cement, clay is used.

Method 4. Similar to the first method. There is no need to sprinkle slag on top. The sawdust can be spread on top with clay, only not very liquid, so that it does not spill deep inside.

Considering that expanded clay is a rather heavy material, it is not recommended to insulate wooden floors with it. There is too great a risk that wood flooring may fail. Ceilings with concrete floors are insulated with expanded clay.

First of all, the surface of the concrete floor must be covered with a vapor barrier film. It should be laid with an overlap, and the joints should be taped. An overlap is made on the walls, approximately 40 - 50 cm. Wooden rafters and the chimney also need to be covered with a vapor barrier film.

Next, crumpled clay is placed on the film. And already on top - expanded clay. For better thermal insulation, use a mixture of large and small fractions of expanded clay. Then the fine grain will fill the voids, and the backfill will be more uniform. For cold climates, the expanded clay layer should be 50 cm. The 15 - 20 cm recommended in some sources will not save the situation. It is precisely because expanded clay needs to be covered in such a large layer for high-quality thermal insulation that it is rarely used.

A light structure is installed on top of the expanded clay cement-sand screed layer 50 mm. The solution should be thick enough so as not to spill deep into the backfill. This way, the attic will have a fairly strong floor, and it can be used for storing something or as a boiler room. A big plus is also the complete fire safety and environmental friendliness of this method.

Clay - ancient construction material, the scope of which is diverse and multifaceted. Clay itself is not used in insulation, since for effective thermal insulation its layer must be simply colossal - 50 - 80 cm. It cannot withstand such a weight wooden ceiling, and such a backfill thickness is simply impractical, it’s better to choose modern material.

Therefore, to insulate the ceiling, clay is used in a mixture with sawdust.

First, the floor is covered with a vapor barrier film that does not allow water to pass through. Next, you can prepare a clay-sawdust solution. Water is poured into a large barrel, to which 4 - 5 buckets of clay are added. The clay is then mixed in water until the water turns a dirty color and the clay almost dissolves. Next, part of the resulting mixture is poured into a concrete mixer and covered with sawdust. As mixing progresses, more water is added. As a result, the solution should be neither liquid nor thick.

An excellent option for insulating the ceiling in the attic wooden house- mats made of reeds. Modern reed mats, tied with twine or wire, are simply laid staggered on top of the floors. It is better if there are 2 layers, the second of them will overlap the joints of the mats of the first layer, removing “cold bridges”. The disadvantage of this method is the fire hazard.

For those who want to insulate the ceiling with natural materials, seaweed is suitable. In coastal regions, this material can be bought for pennies, and if you really want, you can order delivery to another region. The advantage of seaweed ladders is that they do not harbor mice, they are hypoallergenic and even medicinal, as they are saturated with iodine and sea salt, the vapors of which are beneficial, and also do not support combustion and do not smoke. Insects and microorganisms do not grow in algae.

Seaweed is not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to vapor barrier the floor. The ladders are laid directly on the ceiling or floor in a layer of 200 mm. You can install a floor on top or lay boards for ease of movement.

Ecowool or cellulose wool is a modern material that is positioned as natural. To reduce flammability, it is treated with fire retardants or boric acid. Ecowool absorbs moisture, so there is no need to lay a vapor barrier film.

Ecowool is laid immediately on wooden or concrete floors. This requires a special blowing installation, thanks to which all the cracks are blown in, the insulation layer becomes monolithic and saturated with the air contained inside. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a layer of ecowool of 250 mm is sufficient, but in colder regions it is better to make 400 - 500 mm.

The technology for insulating the ceiling with ecowool sometimes includes spraying water. It is needed in order to speed up the process of lignin formation. Then after 1 - 3 weeks a crust appears on top of the ecowool. Due to this material tends to cake, it is always necessary to take a reserve of 5 - 15%.

Penoplex is a representative of the family of extruded polystyrene foams. This material is more durable than polystyrene foam, which means it can be used for insulation. concrete floors before pouring the concrete floor on top. A good option for insulating the ceilings of the first or second floor of a low-rise private house.

It is not recommended to insulate the ceiling with Penoplex if the floors are wooden. The fact is that EPS is absolutely not a “breathable” material. As a result, moisture will accumulate in wooden structures, which will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew.

Before laying Penoplex on a concrete floor, the latter must be checked for unevenness. First the surface is leveled, only then can it be laid vapor barrier material.

Then the Penoplex slabs are laid out. Be sure to take a running start. They are attached to the surface with special dowels with a mushroom cap. The joints between the plates are filled with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, a cement-sand screed with a layer of 50 mm is poured on top. It will serve as a durable floor for the attic or second floor.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool (Ursa)

The most popular modern material for ceiling insulation is mineral wool. One of the manufacturers of thermal insulation materials based on minerals or fiberglass is the Ursa company, whose product range includes both rolled items and rigid slabs.

Ursa mineral wool in rolls is good for insulating wooden floors; it is convenient to lay it between beams. But rigid mineral wool slabs are used for thermal insulation of concrete floors, although it can also be used for wooden floors.

Ceiling insulation with Ursa is carried out as follows:

For wooden floors. A vapor barrier material is laid between the floor beams. Its installation is mandatory, since mineral wool is afraid of moisture. The film is spread with an overlap, and the joints are taped, an overlap of 15 - 25 cm is made on the walls. Next, rolls of Ursa mineral wool with a thickness of 100 to 250 mm are laid between the beams, depending on heat loss calculations. The material must enter the space with force. To do this, it must be cut with a small margin of 2 cm more than the distance between the beams. Then there are two ways: the first - you can leave the mineral wool open, but then it will be impossible to walk on the floor, the second - you can make a wooden floor on top, leaving a gap of 3 mm between the mineral wool and the floor boards. The advantage of mineral wool is its fire safety.

For concrete floors. The concrete surface is leveled and then covered with a vapor barrier film. Mineral wool slabs are laid on top, always spaced apart. Next, a wooden floor or flooring made of boards, plywood, etc. is installed. It is not recommended to screed over mineral wool, since concrete has low vapor permeability, which means that the main rule of thermal insulation will not be observed.

Ceiling insulation with foam (polyurethane foam)

Polyurethane foam is a modern material that is advertised everywhere as the most ideal insulation for ceilings and attics. The advantages of this material are non-flammability, good adhesion, neutrality to microorganisms and insects, waterproofing and soundproofing properties, resistance to temperature fluctuations, and the absence of cold bridges. The disadvantage is complete vapor tightness; this has a bad effect on the microclimate of the room.

Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out only by an organization specializing in this. The material is sprayed under high pressure so that it is blown into all the cracks and envelops protruding elements - columns, etc. The layer is usually 10 - 12 cm.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

An extremely undesirable measure is to insulate the ceiling from inside the room. In addition to reducing the overall height of the room, there is an extremely high risk of heat-insulating material or its evaporation entering the room, as well as the likelihood of mold and mildew appearing in the insulation. But if there is no other way out, you will have to at least take into account a number of restrictions: do not use mineral wool and form a ventilation gap between the insulation and the ceiling finish.

Ceiling insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex)

EPPS - good option for insulating concrete ceilings. First, the sheathing is nailed onto which the drywall will later be attached. The height of the sheathing beam should be 2 - 3 mm greater than the thickness of the insulation. The pitch between the slats should be equal to the width of Penoplex minus 1 - 2 mm. Next, the insulation is stuffed between the sheathing; it must fit in with force. For greater reliability, it must be secured to the ceiling with dowels. Then plasterboard is attached to the sheathing and a suspended ceiling is obtained. Instead of drywall, you can install a suspended ceiling.

Penofol is foamed polyethylene, one side of which is foil-coated. Its thermal insulation properties are not that great, but if the heat loss is not too great, it may be sufficient.

It is necessary to fill the ceiling with a lath, to which Penofol is attached, with the foil side facing the room. It can be nailed to the sheathing. It is necessary to create a ventilation gap on both sides of this material, so another sheathing is placed on top of it, to which drywall is attached. A stretch ceiling option is also possible.

The second way to insulate a ceiling with Penofol is to use it in combination with Penoplex.

In addition to the Penoplex insulation method described above, Penofol is applied to the sheathing, and only then plasterboard.

Insulation of the ceiling with heat-insulating plaster mixtures

For some unknown reason, the option of insulating the ceiling with special thermal insulation plaster mixtures is not popular. But in vain. This is an excellent material for insulating concrete ceilings. Plasters are absolutely environmentally friendly, decorative, do not suffer from moisture and steam, do not burn and are not afraid of fungus or mold. Among the materials from UMKA there are items that can be used indoors.

Insulating the ceiling with white agglomerate of cork tree bark is an environmentally friendly natural method of insulation. It is convenient to use cork when installing an Armstrong-type suspended ceiling, attaching it to the sheathing. The use of a vapor barrier is not necessary, since cork is not afraid of moisture.

The methods of ceiling insulation described above are the most common, but the general list does not end there. There are many other natural and synthetic materials that can be used to insulate the attic of a private home. When choosing this or that method and material, be sure to take into account the overall concept of your home. For example, insulating the ceiling of an environmentally friendly wooden house with Penoplex or Penofol is at least stupid. To keep the wood dry and give it the opportunity to “breathe,” you need to choose natural, vapor-permeable materials, such as seaweed, reeds, sawdust or ecowool. And for a house made of concrete, foam concrete or brick, EPS and polyurethane foam are perfect.

Premises, regardless of their functional purpose.

In order to keep the room warm, it is necessary to insulate concrete ceiling. Can be used for insulation special materials, which are produced specifically to retain heat.

But, in any case, in order to insulate a ceiling, including a concrete one, you simply need to attach a heat-insulating material (insulation) to its surface.

The difference lies only in the properties of the heat-insulating material.

The ceiling can be insulated with polystyrene foam. It is the cheapest and retains heat well.

One of the fastest and cheapest methods is gluing on ceiling surface foam boards, which can be easily purchased at any hardware store. The most important thing is that gluing such tiles does not require special construction knowledge or experience. In 1 day you can easily cover an area of ​​up to 25 square meters. m and thereby insulate the ceiling, for example, in the hall.

At the same time, insulating the ceiling with foam tiles in terms of heat retention quality cannot be compared with the same plasterboard or mineral wool mat. At the same time, the cost of work and the time of applying tiles are negligible.

But know that the better you insulate the ceiling, the more heat you will retain in the room. Therefore, to choose insulation material need to be treated with the utmost care. In any case, you will need:

• the insulation you have chosen;
• waterproofing material (glassine);
• wooden slats (beams);
• polyurethane foam (for sealing seams and gaps);
• nails or screws.

The first tools you need to have on hand are:

• bench knife, hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
• hammer and screwdriver;
• grinder and electric drill.

This set of materials and tools will be simply necessary for high-quality insulation ceiling.

Insulation of ceilings in a private house

Thermal insulation of a concrete ceiling in a private house allows not only to retain heat, but also to significantly reduce energy consumption. In order to insulate private homes, it is best to use materials such as: mineral wool, expanded clay, polystyrene foam, ecowool, penoizol, as they have not only heat-insulating, but also vapor recirculation properties.

A private house begins with laying thermal insulation material between. In order to securely attach the material, it is better to cut it into strips 5 cm wider than. After this, polystyrene foam is laid on top, and the resulting gaps are filled with polyurethane foam. Next, mineral wool is laid to the upper edge of the beam and finally boards are laid on top.

One more effective way, which is used to insulate the ceiling of a room, is the use of expanded clay. But to do this, you first need to lay a vapor barrier layer, on top of which a layer of crumpled clay is poured. Next it is poured from above cement strainer and the boards are laid.

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Insulation of ceilings in an apartment

Residents of the upper floors are mainly interested in insulating the ceiling in an apartment. But still, if your apartment is located on the lower floors, then insulating the ceiling will improve both noise and vibration insulation. Since those currently used practically do not prevent the penetration of sound and vibration from residents living on the upper floors. Therefore, when choosing materials, one of the main criteria, in addition to low heat transfer, is to ensure good sound insulation. However, for residents of the last top floor the problem with sound insulation disappears; they only need to use materials with good thermal insulation.

It is very important to know that with a large number of layers of insulation, the ceiling level decreases.

To insulate an apartment, you first need to install guides made of wooden beams or galvanized metal. The insulating material will subsequently be attached along these guides.

If, of all the methods of insulating the ceiling, you prefer to stick foam plastic, then there is no need to install guides.

If the thermal insulation of a private home is poor, it is primarily the budget and health of the family that suffer. It also happens that home insulation work is carried out independently and unprofessionally. In this case, the property owner often loses money twice as much. Materials are wasted and do not perform their function properly.

Today you can insulate a ceiling very efficiently, cheaply and different materials. The main requirement for them is environmental friendliness and good heat transfer performance. Insulation materials should allow the house to “breathe” and protect it from the loss of precious heat in the harsh Russian winters. However, the average person, as practice shows, pays more attention to pricing policy manufacturers.

If you properly understand this area, you can find any material at an affordable price and with good heat saving properties.

Peculiarities

If you understand the issue in detail, you can insulate your own ceiling in an apartment without purchasing special equipment, which is not cheap at all. The main thing is to know how to do everything correctly. The owner will always have the basic tools for this in a private home.

Ceiling insulation options top floor apartment building also many. All ceiling insulation work is carried out in the attic, so there simply cannot be any debris in the rooms. It is very convenient and does not distract from work.

Types and materials

One of the insulation options is a technology using extruded polystyrene foam, isospan or polystyrene foam. This option is very popular. Styrofoam makes it cheaper consumable part budget. The use of extruded materials provides a guarantee long service and good insulation. Polystyrene foam is easy to work with, it is light and convenient. Most often, a house is also insulated with penoplex, penofol or expanded polystyrene.

Materials you need to purchase:

• Styrofoam;
• glassine or vapor barrier membrane;
• polyurethane foam.

Now openoplast. Foam sheets 100 mm thick are best suited for ceiling insulation. As for density, 15 kg per cubic meter is enough. If there is such a possibility, then such foam can even be laid in two layers. But it should be remembered that in this case, each joining seam should not coincide (the principle of brick laying is used) in order to prevent cold air from penetrating. All cracks and joints are also “sewn up” with foam plastic.

It is simply impossible to “fit” foam plastic perfectly.

To seal the cracks, special mounting foam is used. For its installation, it is recommended not to save money; it is better to buy a professional gun. It will allow you to place foam even in the narrowest crevices, and it is also much more convenient to use. As for the vapor barrier, many roofers do not insist on its use. Wood does not need additional insulation. But even if you are going to save it, then use membrane materials. In this case, it is strictly forbidden to use film in order to protect the wood from rotting and the spread of fungus. It is very difficult to fight him.

The sequence of work on ceiling insulation can be summarized in the following algorithm:

1. lay foam plastic;
2. prepare the surface;
3. lay heat-insulating material;
4. we place a vapor barrier;
5. lay foam plastic;
6. fill all joints with polyurethane foam.

The entire technological workflow occurs according to the following principle:

• The entire working surface must be cleared of all kinds of debris and unnecessary objects. The space between the beams should not be wet. It must first be dried well (you can use powerful fan heaters).
• After cleaning, you should prepare foam sheets. Cut them so that their size is approximately 10 mm larger than the size of the element in which they will be mounted. This way the foam will fit tightly to all structures. For pruning, experts advise buying a special hacksaw. It will allow you to cut it faster and better.
• The next stage is laying a vapor barrier. It must be mounted with an overlap on a vertical surface. The vapor barrier is fixed using a construction stapler.

• Measure the frame of the structure accurately (it’s better to double-check than to spoil expensive material). The foam must be laid very tightly. If you decide to lay it in two layers, then top sheet The polystyrene foam should be laid offset (approximately half a sheet) so that there are no gaps. During installation, you should remember that foam plastic is a rather fragile material and can be accidentally broken. At this stage, do not rush and be extremely careful not to buy additional material.
• After all structures are filled with polystyrene foam, we proceed to “blowing in” the joints and cracks with foam. When it hardens, the protruding mass can be trimmed off stationery knife. To avoid unnecessary work, fill the gaps carefully so that the foam does not protrude out. If the attic will be used as an attic in the future, then additional foam protection is not needed. It simply does not need it and will perform an excellent thermal insulation function.

Granular polystyrene very similar to the foam described above. Only it is produced not in the form of sheets, but as small balls. But granulated polystyrene is used very rarely for ceiling insulation, although it is very easy to use. The balls do not burn, quickly and well fill the entire structure, and perform an excellent thermal insulation function.

The first thing you need to do when insulating the ceiling with polystyrene is rough preparation, cleaning the areas from various debris. Then polystyrene is poured into all structures and distributed evenly. It doesn't get compacted. Experts recommend spreading it in a layer of up to 20 cm. The material will not weigh down the structure, since it is very light.

The filled polystyrene is covered with a vapor-permeable membrane. You can use any other material that is capable of permeable air.

This is a necessary condition, since the balls can fly away when the slightest wind blows.

This technology is quite effective and provides a fairly high level of thermal insulation in a private home. Another argument in favor of granulated polystyrene is its price. You can purchase it at a price of 5,500 rubles per cubic meter. It is easy to calculate that if you insulate the ceiling with a layer of about 20 centimeters, then 1 cubic meter of polystyrene will cover 5 square meters of the ceiling.

Another option for insulating the ceiling is penoizol. This is the newest material. It is produced in liquid form. By pouring the structure, you can fill all the cracks and voids. The service life of the material is up to 30 years. The only negative is that you need special equipment, special knowledge and skills to install it. If you choose this material, you will need to attract specialists and additionally pay for their work.

But the specialists will do everything for you; your function is only to control their work. You only need to complete preparatory work– clean the insulated areas from various debris, remove interfering objects and things.

The next step is preparation and direct installation of the vapor barrier membrane. It protects wooden structures from moisture that will be released during the process of filling the ceiling with foam insulation. The membrane will create a barrier and release all vapors outside.

Now the specialists can get to work. They will apply penoizol in the required layer over the entire area. This work is done quite quickly. As for drying the material, this requires a certain time.

There is no need to cover (insulate) the surface insulated with foam insulation. Even if penoizol “protrudes” higher in some places, then this, if necessary, can be solved using a regular construction knife.

Now you need to figure out the cost of the material itself. One cubic meter of penoizol will cost you 1700-1800 rubles. This is a fairly reasonable price. As a result, you get the minimum headache and an excellent result.

Another option is ceiling insulation mineral wool. It can be noted that this is the most popular technology insulation of not only the ceiling, but also the walls and floor. The work can be divided into several stages.

Just like in all previous versions thermal insulation works, the area is cleaned and all debris is removed. Then a material is laid that allows steam and water to pass through. The hydraulic barrier is mounted using a stapler. In order for everything to be done reliably, it is necessary to make overlaps of up to 15 cm. Use tape to strengthen them.

Remember that a high-quality vapor barrier is an important stage of work with this technology.

When the vapor barrier is done, you can begin to fill the space between the beams with mineral wool. It is supplied both in rolls and in small sheets. The material is comfortable and light. If you bought mineral wool in rolls, you can easily cut it into the pieces you need and lay it between the beams. Fill the space between the beams so that there are no gaps. The materials must fit tightly to each other. In order for mineral wool to fulfill its purpose well, it must be laid with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Only under this condition can it properly fulfill its purpose.

When installing rigid slabs, you should pay attention to the fact that the sheathing must be continuous. It is very important to properly waterproof the entire surface. Only after this the slabs are laid. Also remember that hard mineral wool will protect your fireplace from heat loss much better.

When working with mineral wool, you must take care of your own protection. Purchase a respirator and gloves in advance. After all the insulation work, mineral wool will not pose a danger to you and your family members. But during the installation process, when the material needs to be cut and taken by hand, small particles of cotton wool will enter the lungs and irritate the mucous membranes, and if they come into contact with the skin of the hands, they will cause itching and redness.

Despite this minor disadvantage, mineral wool is great if you need to insulate the attic yourself, without hiring specialists.

Mineral wool insulation technology

The entire insulated surface must be covered with a special windproof membrane. It will also protect from moisture from the outside, ensuring the removal of excess moisture from the inside. Installation is carried out as standard - using a special stapler. All joints are securely secured with special tape.

The cotton wool then fills the space between the slings. The best option for material thickness is up to 20 centimeters. The cotton wool must be laid tightly, avoiding any gaps. Due to the fact that the attic is protected only by the roof, it needs to be insulated very well. Do not skimp on the thickness of mineral wool. In order for mineral wool sheets to hold tightly, they need to be well secured. You can use one of several methods for this procedure.

In the first case, you need to stuff the slats on top of the insulating layer. In another, stretch the twine on the surface. It will hold mineral wool perfectly, it won’t go anywhere.

Then comes the vapor barrier. The choice of this material is yours. Once it is attached, finishing can begin. Sheets of plywood are used; it is good to use plasterboard or lining for the attic.

The next technology for insulating the ceiling of a private house is thermal insulation sawdust. Very often this material is used in dachas.

If you don’t want to spend large sums of money to insulate such buildings, budget options are quite suitable.

What you will need to insulate the ceiling of a country house:

• Sawdust from any type of wood. It is important that they are dry and not rotten. Such material can be found at the sawmill. They will gladly sell them to you for pennies.
• You will definitely need lime. It is used to protect the material from mold and all kinds of pests. It is added in a ratio of 1: 10. Buy finely ground lime (fluffed lime).

• To make the composition strong, many experts recommend adding cement (one part cement and 10 parts sawdust).
• It is recommended to use copper sulfate as an antiseptic.

The work algorithm is approximately as follows:

• Take a container convenient for mixing that you have on hand. summer cottage. It mixes 10 parts of sawdust, part of cement and lime. It is necessary to mix everything so that the mass is homogeneous.
• After this procedure, add water. The water should already contain copper sulfate. It must be poured in carefully; the entire heat-insulating mass should not be damp or wet, but only slightly damp.
• Then you need to move on to the next stage - preparing the ceiling. The entire surface of the ceiling should be covered with a layer of glassine. Lay this material overlapping so that the next one overlaps the previous one by 15 cm. The glassine will perform a waterproofing function and will not allow moisture to penetrate into wooden structures. The already mentioned stapler is used to fasten the glassine.

• Next, the prepared mass of thermal insulation must be evenly distributed over the entire area. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is recommended from 10 cm. The material does not require compaction.
• It takes some time for the laid layer of sawdust to dry completely. As a rule (it all depends on the weather), drying takes up to two weeks. But you can speed up the process available means. While the sawdust is drying, make sure that the attic is well ventilated. You cannot walk on such thermal insulation. If you plan to use the attic for domestic purposes, you will have to invest in boards or plywood that will protect the insulating material.

Another available material for insulation is a mixture of clay and sawdust. This mass will perfectly protect the house from loss of precious heat. Another bonus is the absolute environmental friendliness of this option.

To work on insulation you will need:

1. directly the clay itself, which you can extract yourself with a shovel;
2. sawdust(use the services of a sawmill);
3. some cement. Buy it taking into account the consumption of 1:10.

You can prepare the sawdust-clay mass as follows:

If you have a concrete mixer, then you need to pour several buckets of clay into it, gradually add water so that the output is a liquid mass. Then sawdust is added. You need to add more until the solution becomes relatively dense. Make sure that the mixture is not very wet. This important point. When these conditions are met, cement can be added. It will thoroughly dry out such a composition.

Straw is also often used instead of sawdust. In this case, you will get adobe.

Next material, suitable for thermal insulation on the roof side – expanded clay It has fairly good thermal insulation properties, is quite lightweight and does not weigh down the insulated surface. It is easy to attach. It is also a fire-resistant material. In order for the use of expanded clay for thermal insulation to be effective, you need to make a layer of about 20 cm. Otherwise, there will be large heat losses. The roof beams should also be the same height.

Expanded clay is very widely used for thermal insulation. The technology for insulating a private house with it is quite simple. The surface under the backfill is cleared of foreign debris, and a vapor-permeable membrane is installed. The material is poured over the entire surface, covering the beams. To strengthen it you will need a stapler. Such work can be performed by any owner with a minimum set of tools.

Ecowool- another common way to insulate the ceiling of a private house. They started using it not so long ago. It's comparative new material for thermal insulation. Ecowool contains cellulose. Fire retardants and antiseptics are also added to it. They are needed to ensure that the material is non-flammable and safe. Due to the fact that ecowool has a capillary structure, moisture evaporates well from its surface. Additives in the form of an antiseptic prevent the appearance of mold and fungi.

Trust the specialists if you decide to use this insulation option.

Work algorithm:

No special surface preparation is needed. Cellulose is “friendly” with wood. It is necessary to clear the surface of debris and rid the room of unnecessary objects.

Ceiling insulation work can be carried out using both dry and wet methods. For the dry method, the material is applied under pressure to the surface to be insulated. With the wet method, wet mass is fed. After it dries, the adhesion of the material is very high quality. The wet method is more often used due to the fact that it increases the sound insulation rate.

Insulating the ceiling cannot be called a complex and time-consuming process. Thanks to this work, it is possible to significantly reduce heat loss through the ceiling. To make a room warmer, you can use various types of insulation, each of which has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Today we will talk about ways to insulate the ceiling, and also get acquainted with the recommendations of experts.

Peculiarities

Noticeable heat loss, as well as cold air emanating from the ceiling, are the result of incorrectly installed or low-quality thermal insulation. Heat loss through such a ceiling can reach up to 20%, since warm air rises and barriers are needed that will not allow it to leave the room.

It is recommended to insulate the ceiling during the construction phase of the house.. However, there are cases when owners for some reason do not carry out such work within the specified period. In addition, situations are not uncommon when old thermal insulation becomes unusable in an already built home. And in such conditions it will be possible to install insulation, but the work will be more difficult. On this moment There are several methods for thermal insulation of ceilings.

Many consumers are wondering why it is necessary to insulate the ceiling and whether such work can be neglected. To find out the answer to these questions, you should familiarize yourself with the main functions that insulation performs in this case:

• High-quality insulation materials have excellent sound insulation properties. Thanks to such elements, silence will always remain in an apartment or private house, even if there is rain and wind outside the window.
• Thanks to the installed insulating layer, the room will be warm in winter, since the heated air, rising upward, will collide with an obstacle and go down again.
• Ceiling insulation will also be useful in hot seasons. It will prevent hot air from entering the room, so it will remain comfortably cool.

It is also worth identifying situations in which ceiling insulation is necessary:

• Thermal insulation of the ceiling should be done if you have just started building a house. At this moment the ceiling consists of ordinary wooden beams. Then you can lay insulation between them and “sew up” it.
• You can also begin this work if the owners have already begun to settle in the house and ceiling it's been ready for a long time. This is necessary so that living rooms it was not cold in autumn and winter.
• Thermal insulation of the ceiling is simply necessary if no one lives on the top floor of the house. As a rule, such rooms are always cooler. In such situations, heated areas lose their heat to unheated ones.

You should not think that thermal insulation of the ceiling can only be done when arranging a private home. It is quite acceptable to carry out such work in apartment buildings.

In such dwellings, all actions can only be carried out inside, and residents are prohibited from repairing attics and roofs themselves.

Currently, they are used to insulate ceilings. various materials. Each of them has its own operational characteristics, based on which you should choose the appropriate option for certain conditions.

Insulation requirements

Ceiling insulation must meet a number of requirements:

• It must be environmentally friendly and safe. Otherwise, you risk harming the health of your household.
• The insulation must be fireproof.
• Due to the insulating layer, heat loss should be reduced, and not the circulation of steam occurring in the house/apartment.
• The insulation should not get wet.

Types of insulation: pros and cons

There are several types of insulation materials. Let’s take a closer look at them and consider what their pros and cons are.

Mineral wool

There are several types of mineral wool:

• Stone. This mineral wool is made from igneous rock melts.
• Slag. This insulating material is made from molten blast furnace slag.
• Glass. This mineral wool is created from molten glass.

Included stone wool There are ingredients such as gabbro or diabase, as well as blast furnace slag and batch. The mineral ingredients in basalt insulation include clay, dolomite, and limestone. These components are necessary to make the material more fluid. Formaldehyde in small quantities (2-10%) acts as a binding element in this composition.

Characteristic for slag fibrous structure. This insulation is made from waste metallurgical industry when smelting cast iron in blast furnaces. Slag fibers are distinguished by their small thickness and length.

In the process of creating glass wool, elements such as sand, dolomite, soda, lime, borax and broken glass are used.

Mineral wool can have different markings:

• P-75. This type of cotton wool has a density of 75 kg/cubic meter. m. This material is used to insulate horizontal non-external planes. This could be the attic or the roof. In addition, P-75 mineral wool is used for insulation of pipelines of heating networks, as well as oil and gas pipelines.
• P-125. Mineral wool under this marking has a density of 125 kg / cubic meter. m. It is used for insulating non-external bases located in any position. Material marked P-125 is also used for insulating floors and ceilings.
• PZh-175. This type of wool is used to process reinforced concrete or corrugated sheet floors.
• PPZh-200. Cotton wool PPZH-200 is used in the same way as PZH-175, but is more fire resistant.

Mineral wool has many positive qualities:

• It is distinguished by low thermal conductivity. Because of this, mineral wool is an effective insulation material.
• This material is recognized as fireproof.
• She is not afraid of temperature changes. Under conditions of overheating and hypothermia, mineral wool does not deform or lose its shape.
• Mineral wool is characterized by chemical and biological stability.
• Such insulation is distinguished by high vapor permeability, so it is “breathable”.
• Installation of mineral wool is quite simple and quick. It's easy to deal with House master, who does not have extensive experience in such work.

Despite its popularity, mineral wool also has some disadvantages:

• This material requires treatment with special water-repellent agents to reduce water absorption. By absorbing moisture, mineral wool loses its heat-insulating properties.
• Such insulation cannot be called light. Because of this, the cost of its delivery increases significantly.

Ecowool

As a rule, ecowool is impregnated with special compounds, such as fire retardants and antiseptics. These components are necessary so that the insulation is not afraid of insects and rodents.

Let's get acquainted with the advantages characteristic of ecowool:

• It is environmentally friendly and safe for health.
• Ecowool is a “breathable” material that allows air to pass through perfectly. A room insulated with such material is comfortable even in hot summers.
• Ecowool does not rot and does not become moldy. Of course, such insulation will not rot if it is not oversaturated with moisture. Otherwise, ecowool may be seriously damaged.
• This type of insulation is durable. Even after many years, it does not lose its beneficial qualities.
• Ecowool can be supplemented or compacted.
• It is not a flammable material and easily extinguishes in case of fire.
• This type of insulation is easy to use, especially when it comes to insulating a horizontal plane.
• Many people choose ecowool insulation, as it is homogeneous - it has no seams or joints.

The main disadvantage of this insulation is that the dry backfill cakes and settles over time. Because of this, it must be laid on the bases in a thick layer.

Styrofoam

This type of thermal insulation material is used everywhere. It is inexpensive and quite easy to install. Its structure is a special foamed mass, in which the main volume is gas. Because of this feature, the density of the foam is quite low.

For insulating the ceiling can be used foam boards different densities. However, it is worth considering that not very dense materials require additional protective measures , since they cannot boast of sufficient strength characteristics. As a rule, loose materials are installed using a frame method.

Polystyrene foam is not an ideal insulation material; it has its drawbacks, which you should be aware of if you decide to use this material:

• This insulation has limited mechanical strength. After installation, it needs additional protection from external damage.
• Polystyrene foam is not a breathable material. It practically does not allow air to pass through it.
• This material quickly becomes unusable under the influence of nitro paints and other paint coatings with such a basis.

Penoplex

Insulating the ceiling with penoplex has its pros and cons. First, let's take a look at its strengths:

• Penoplex has low vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, this material does not absorb moisture.
• Penoplex is also characterized by low thermal conductivity.
• It can easily withstand significant loads, which indicates its compressive strength.
• Penoplex boasts a long service life (up to 40 years).
• Installation of such insulation is simple and affordable.
• Penoplex is relatively inexpensive.

The disadvantages of penoplex include:

Penofol

Another popular insulation material is covered with foil. As a rule, it is used indoors and reflects heat.

Let's get acquainted with the advantages of penofol:

• It has a small thickness, but at the same time provides high-quality thermal insulation living space.
• Easy to install. For such work, special and expensive tools are not required.
• Penofol does not crumble or break.
• It is an environmentally friendly and safe material.
• Waterproof.
• Fireproof.
• It has excellent noise and waterproofing properties.
• It has an affordable price.

The main disadvantage of penofol is its soft structure. You can easily press on it, after which it will definitely bend. For this reason, finishing this layer with plaster or wallpaper will be impossible.

Perlite

Perlite or perlite sand is a popular material with best properties everyone effective insulation materials. It is very durable, inert and lightweight. Perlite raw materials differ in that they contain from 2% to 5% bound water. This material is inert, which is due to its chemical nature origin.

The main properties of perlite include:

• high thermal conductivity;
• sound absorption;
• water absorption.

Now it’s worth considering in more detail what advantages perlite sand has:

Sawdust

Sawdust is the cheapest and most accessible insulation material. They are used for both residential and commercial buildings.

Sawdust is the waste that remains when wood is processed. They are ordinary shavings or fine dust. Previously, such materials were widely used for insulating homes, but with the development high technology they faded into the background and began to be considered obsolete.

But do not think that sawdust is no longer used for insulating buildings; they are still used for these purposes. This is due to the effectiveness of sawdust, as well as its incomparable durability.

As for the disadvantages of sawdust, these include:

• easy flammability;
• sawdust may harbor insects or rodents.

In addition to sawdust itself, other materials that are produced on its basis can be used to insulate a home:

• wood concrete;
• sawdust concrete;
• sawdust pellets;
• blocks.

Expanded clay

You can insulate your home not only with cheap sawdust, but also with expanded clay. This material is enviably popular in our country, as it is inexpensive and has excellent performance characteristics.

Expanded clay consists of tiny granules with little mass. The granules contain pores, which make these elements as light as possible.

Let's get acquainted with the positive qualities of this insulating material:

• Expanded clay is inexpensive and is available material– you won’t have to look for it for a long time in different retail outlets.
• A characteristic feature of expanded clay is its high thermal conductivity.
• This material is lightweight, so it is very easy to work with; it does not put any noticeable load on the base.
• An insulating layer consisting of expanded clay can serve without any problems for a long time(up to 50 years old).
• Expanded clay - environmentally friendly pure material, which does not emit hazardous substances.

This material also has its own disadvantages:

• Using expanded clay, it is very difficult to achieve complete soundproofing of a room. To do this, you will have to form a half-meter thermal insulation layer.
• Such insulation will require additional investments from the owners to protect it from moisture.

Due to this drawback, using expanded clay for insulating old and damp buildings is strictly not recommended.

Clay

You can insulate the ceiling with clay. This material is inexpensive and environmentally friendly. It perfectly protects spaces from heat leakage. In addition, with such insulation the room will remain cool if the weather is hot outside.

Clay is easily diluted with water, and after drying it becomes very hard and retains heat well. Most often, this method of thermal insulation is used when treating large areas.

Let's figure out what advantages this environmentally friendly insulation has:

• It is inexpensive, and therefore has no competitors among analogues.
• It is a fireproof material - does not burn, does not support combustion.
• Insects or mice do not live in such insulation.
• The solution for ceiling insulation is diluted from fairly light fillers, which significantly reduces the load on the floors.
• Clay does not contain harmful impurities.
• This material is easy to work with. To do this, it is not at all necessary to hire professionals.
• The dried mixture can be used again. To do this you just need to wet it. Thanks to this feature, you can avoid a large amount of waste after completion of all work.
• After adding water, the clay becomes very plastic and easily penetrates into any voids present in the base.
• After complete evaporation of moisture, the clay becomes hard. For this reason, there is no need to lay out flooring for walking on the attic floor.

However, at present, clay has been replaced by more modern thermal insulation materials.

There are several good reasons for this:

• Clay insulation is considered not the most effective. As a rule, this material is used only as an addition to the main insulation.
• To properly prepare a clay solution, you need to very carefully maintain all the required proportions. Otherwise, the heat-insulating layer may simply collapse or will not perform its main functions.
• Ready-made clay mixtures are heavy, so they should be laid only on stable floors that can withstand significant loads.

Installation methods

You can install the insulation yourself. This work is done in two ways. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

From inside the room

Experts do not recommend insulating the ceiling in the interior of the home. With such work, you will not only reduce its height, it can also lead to the insulation material itself and its fumes entering the room. In addition, in such cases, fungus and mold may appear on the insulating material.

If you have no choice, then you should consider some restrictions:

• do not use mineral wool to insulate the ceiling indoors;
• leave short period between the insulation and the finishing coating of the ceiling.

To insulate the ceiling in the interior of the room, penoplex or penofol are perfect.

According to experts, working with penoplex is quite easy. First you will need to nail the sheathing onto which you will then attach plasterboard sheet. Pay attention to the height of the sheathing beam. It should be 2-3 centimeters greater than the thickness of the insulation.

There should be a step between the slats equal to the width of the insulation (approximately 1-2 mm). After this, you need to lay an insulating coating between the sheathing. It should fit in the right places with light effort. In order for the insulation to adhere well to the ceiling, it should be attached using dowels.

At the end of the work, sheets of plasterboard are attached to the sheathing. Thus, a kind of suspended ceiling is obtained. If you don't want to install regular drywall, then you can turn to installing a tension structure.

To install penofol, it is also necessary to prepare the frame. Next, you will need to put insulation on it (with the foil side facing the inside of the room). The insulating material can be nailed to the frame structure. Gaps should be left on both sides for ventilation, so you will need to install a second sheathing on top - sheets of drywall will be attached to it. In this case, you can also turn to a suspended ceiling.

Outside

Ceiling insulation with outside premises involves laying insulation not from below, but from above the ceiling (or into voids, if any). In this case, the installation technology largely depends on the base material.

For example, for wooden floors it is better to use light bulk options, and for concrete slabs More impressive insulation materials with greater weight are also suitable.

Let's take a closer look at how to properly install insulation on the outside using mineral wool as an example.

For wooden floors

For concrete

In this case, the base needs to be thoroughly processed and leveled, removing all bevels and potholes.

• Then you need to attach the vapor barrier film.
• The mineral wool will be hemmed on it.
• Next comes the fastening finishing material(cardboard, plywood, wood).

Choosing insulation for a cold roof should be based on several criteria:

• Room type. For different conditions fit different insulation materials. For example, for a loggia and balcony, mineral wool, penoplex, isolon or polystyrene are more suitable, and for an attic or attic - basalt insulation or polyurethane foam. For spaces with high levels of humidity, it is worth choosing moisture-resistant insulation, otherwise they will quickly become unusable.
• Base material. For wooden floors, you should buy lighter insulation materials. For concrete foundations, you can purchase materials that can bear heavy loads.
• Environmental friendliness. Experts recommend purchasing only environmentally friendly and safe types insulation materials.
• Fire safety. Select non-flammable insulation materials that do not support combustion.
• Manufacturer. Contact only well-known manufacturers, producing high-quality and durable products.

If you decide to install ceiling insulation in your home yourself, then you should listen to the advice of experts:

• Do not neglect the installation of waterproofing when laying insulating material. This will avoid the formation of condensation on the base, which can then reach the insulation.
• If you need to insulate the first floors of a low-rise private building, then you should use penoplex for this.
• It is possible to insulate the ceiling on the top floor only from the inside of the home, despite the fact that this method is not recommended by professionals.
• If you decide to use sawdust for insulation, then you will need to check whether they are dry or not. To do this, you should walk over them before installation. Dry material will bend and crunch.
• An attic that is insulated on all sides and also equipped with heating is not an attic, but an attic. Acceptable Materials insulation for such areas is indicated above.
• If you are installing penofol, then you should not use fasteners that need to be nailed, this method can negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of this material. It is better to purchase insulation with an adhesive backing.

• After laying the insulating material (especially if it is tiled) on the base, you should always seal all the cracks and joints. Most often, polyurethane foam is used for this.
• If you work with mineral wool, then you definitely need to use protective equipment - gloves and a respirator. Once fixed, this material will be safe, but during the process of laying and cutting it, tiny particles may become airborne, which will irritate the mucous membranes and also cause itching on the skin.
• The insulation must be fixed as securely and efficiently as possible. To do this, use various fasteners, slats and twine.
• Insulation in the form of slabs can be attached to the ceiling using glue. To do this, it is permissible to use a reliable cement-based composition. Home craftsmen leave good reviews about this installation method, as they find it easier and faster.

Many people are concerned about the question: “How and with what to insulate the ceiling in a living room?” And not just insulate, but make sure that the insulation doubles as a decorative material - and there are many such options. Our article will discuss how to choose the best option for thermal insulation material, and how to properly insulate the ceiling in a particular room.

Ceiling in the apartment

Insulation of ceilings in an apartment may be necessary only in one case - if it is on the top floor. And it doesn’t even make much difference whether the house has an attic or not. Even if there is, it is still not heated. Unless, in this case, the likelihood of your ceiling getting wet if the roof leaks is reduced.

• But it also happens that after a good rainfall or melting snow, the ceiling in your apartment is wet. And where there is dampness, it is cold - and such a nuisance, alas, is not uncommon, especially in old houses.

• And if this does happen, you shouldn’t despair. Simply, before insulating the ceiling in an apartment, you need to perform a number of manipulations. Of course, you need to get rid of it first, and our website has detailed articles on this topic. But if it hasn’t come to this, then the main thing that needs to be done is to block the moisture.
• To do this, you will need a waterproofing repair compound such as Aquastop, Kalmastop, Gidroizol. These are penetrating soils that can not only block incoming moisture, but also displace existing moisture from the thickness of concrete.

• These compositions are effective even in cases where there are cracks in the slabs (see), open up to three millimeters. At the same time, the structure being processed does not have to be dry. If there is a seam on the ceiling formed by the joint of the plates, and it is large enough, you will need a joint compound, which, when crystallized, forms an insurmountable barrier for water.

Advice! After treating the seams and corner joints of the ceiling, they can be strengthened by gluing self-adhesive fiberglass insulating tape around their perimeter.

Having finished processing the joints, you can begin applying waterproofing primer over the entire ceiling area. We insulate the ceiling after the coating layer has dried. If you have waterproofed it using the technology we described above, your ceiling is now safe.

You can decorate it in any way convenient for you. But you still need to install the insulation, and this requires a frame. If the height of the room is quite low, and you don’t want to take away another 12-15 cm, it’s worth considering options for frameless insulation.

Thermal insulation plaster

And here is your first idea on how to insulate the ceiling on the top floor. One of the frameless options for insulation, not only of the ceiling, but also of the walls, is warm plaster.

What is it:

• These are dry mixtures composed of porous fillers and plasticizing additives. The binder base of mixtures used for interior work is the same gypsum.
• Different kinds heat-insulating plasters They differ from each other only in the type of filler. Depending on the manufacturer, the following can serve as filler: granulated expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, foam glass or silicon, vermiculite or perlite expanded sand.
• Cheaper options use sawdust, but this is not the best option for an apartment. We will not dwell on the properties of each type of warm plaster. Let's just say that they all have good adhesion to various surfaces, are resistant to dampness and mold, and have a low thermal conductivity coefficient.

• For residential premises, it is best to use plasters with fillers of natural origin. They are applied to the wall without prior leveling, in one layer. In this case, there is no need to install reinforcing mesh. Some of the thermal insulating plasters do not even require finishing.
• For example: foam glass mixtures. They are so plastic that they even allow you to create a relief on the surface of a ceiling or wall, or form decorative elements similar to stucco. Such plaster itself, due to the coarse filler, creates a coating with an interesting texture.
• Naturally, this material is the most expensive compared to other warm compounds. On the other hand, the thermal conductivity coefficient of foam glass-based plaster is 30-40% lower than that of mineral wool.

By the way, foam glass can also be used. There are aluminum acoustic panels coated with foam glass.

They are very light, rigid, and have excellent sound insulation. The panels come in various formats and can be used not only for suspended ceilings, but also for wall cladding.

Cork agglomerate

How and how to insulate the ceiling in order to do without leveling and installing the frame, and even better - without finishing? We offer another, environmentally friendly option for ceiling insulation.

• This is the covering of its surface with cork agglomerate. The cork is not at all afraid of moisture, it is very light, and can be mounted either with glue or on lathing. The installation method will depend on which coating you prefer: roll or in the form of slabs.
• This material is made from the bark of a certain type of oak tree called cork. White agglomerate is used as decorative coatings for walls and ceilings.
• It is obtained by molding and pressing granules in an organic binder: gelatin, coal-stone pitch, resins. Polymers are not used in the production of cork coverings.

• A huge advantage of this material is its varied texture and colors, the possibility of painting, drawing, or stenciling. Cork covering perfectly hides small unevenness and defects in the ceiling, so it does not require preliminary leveling of the surface.
• The only condition for gluing cork is a cement base. That is, if there was previously a plaster screed on the ceiling, it will have to be removed. From figures and elements cut from cork different color, you can create applications, panels, and entire paintings on the ceiling.
• We talk about the ceiling because it is the topic of our conversation. Naturally, everything we talk about is also relevant for other surfaces. For finishing floors and walls cork coverings are used even more often.
• By the way, flooring made of cork, designed for installation with glue, can also be used for the ceiling. It is glued either to the base ceiling or to the surface of the slab insulation, as shown in the photo below.

And if you need to decorate and insulate the entire apartment, why is the ceiling worse than the floor or walls? Cork is often used in the design of the entire room.

Cork is hypoallergenic, so cork flooring is ideal for children's rooms and bedrooms. Such a room will not only be warm, but also perfectly insulated from noise. Why don’t you decorate your apartment like this?

Needless to say, all materials mounted on the frame are good when it is necessary to insulate the ceiling. And this is not only cork or solid wood, but also any sheet and modular options: plasterboard, MDF panels, even plastic - because insulation can be placed inside the structure.

Eco panels and foam tiles

How can you insulate the ceiling in order to also create a design worthy of decorating the interior of the living room? Continuing the topic of decorative materials, which are excellent insulation, we cannot help but mention eco-friendly panels. This is a relatively new material that has a three-dimensional surface, for which it received 3D status.

• The three-dimensional surface of volumetric panels is perceived differently, depending on the lighting. By using an eco panel for ceiling cladding, you can insulate the ceiling and get a chic design. Just look at this variety! Shown here are options that already have finishing, and those that can be painted.
• Eco panels are produced from natural raw materials plant origin: loose cellulose, crushed bamboo, reed, straw, or the same cork. The binder is organic resins. Due to this, this material is referred to with the prefix “eco”.
• Such panels are mounted using glue - everything is very simple. To ensure that the ceilings in all rooms do not look the same, you can use panels with different textures, or you can use your own insulation option in each room.

You can also use small-format, glue-mounted and polystyrene foam or fiberglass tiles to obtain a beautiful and insulated ceiling. The latter, however, is more often installed on a frame, using a cassette ceiling system. However, additional insulation can be installed in such a structure.

We insulate the ceiling in a private house

Speaking about ceiling insulation in a private house, it should be noted that it may be needed in two cases. The first is if the house has a basement or ground floor. The second is the attic ceiling, or attic floor.

If area basement corresponds total area at home, it is more convenient to carry out insulation from the upper rooms - that is, in the process of installing the floor of the first floor. If, of course, the floor design allows it.

If the floor is concrete

It is carried out simultaneously with their installation. All the nuances of this technology are described in detail in one of the articles on our website.

We will consider the option when in brick or block house used reinforced concrete slabs ceilings So, smooth and smooth surface slabs are an ideal base for tiling, laying parquet or laminate.

In this case, it is unlikely that it would occur to anyone to do insulation from this side. Therefore, it is better if the insulation is laid on the ceiling during the finishing of the basement floor.

First, the entire ceiling area is treated with waterproofing impregnation - it will not allow condensation to accumulate. Then, depending on the selected decorative covering, an aluminum frame or wooden sheathing is mounted.

• Board materials can be used as insulation: polystyrene foam, various types of mineral wool, expanded polystyrene foam. Roll insulation, in this case, is not very convenient to use.
• There is practically no need to cut the slabs. The main thing is to choose their size so that the width matches the pitch of the profile, or is one or two centimeters wider. Then the insulation will fit tightly into the cells and will not fall out during installation. Facade dowels with a wide head are used as insulation fixation.
• Attaching the insulation to the ceiling can also be done glue method. Then, not used as a waterproofing layer roll material, but an absorbent primer of deep penetration.
• After allowing the ceiling to dry after applying the impregnating waterproofing, they mount the frame and, after applying glue to the desired area, press the insulation board against it. To perform this process, there is a special type of glue.

When the installation of the insulation is completed, plastic film or foil is glued over it. This is a vapor barrier layer. If you buy a more expensive one modern insulation, the front side of which already comes with foil cladding from the factory, all you have to do is lay the slabs with foil inside the room.

Here, in fact, the process of insulating the ceiling is completed. Next, a decorative surface is mounted on the frame: plastic or MDF panels, plasterboard, lining, etc.

If insulation boards are installed without a frame, then a fine-mesh fiberglass mesh is fixed on top of them and plaster is applied. Most often, the same warm plasters that were mentioned at the beginning of the article are used for insulation. But this is on the façade. And in the case of the ceiling, you can use either liquid wallpaper or decorative putty.

Ceiling on basement and attic floors

To insulate the basement, it is quite possible to use another method: covering the surface of the ceiling, and indeed the entire room, liquid polyurethane foam. But for this you will have to turn to specialists, because you will need special equipment, which makes no sense to buy for a one-time job.

• However, if the basement is residential, you can apply the same types of insulation mentioned above. In such cases, suspended ceilings are most often installed, since they are built into lighting and ventilation.

• When the house has two or three floors, it will be necessary to insulate the ceiling only on the last one. If there is an attic on top, the easiest way is to insulate the floor from the side of this room. There you can use all types of insulation, even polymer.
• The most convenient, and cheaper, would be to use bulk insulation: expanded clay, vermiculite, polystyrene foam granules or penofol. Ordinary sawdust is also often used for this purpose, although it must be remembered that sawdust is highly flammable, just like foam plastic.

• To backfill the insulation, wooden logs are mounted on the floor surface, previously covered with roofing felt. The logs must be treated with an antiseptic in advance. Bulk insulation, especially if a flammable option is used, it is better to fill it with liquid cement mortar.
• Expanded clay or vermiculite may not be poured. But, if the floor is made in the attic, which will be used as a residential attic, these types of insulation are not only filled with mortar, a reinforcing steel mesh is also embedded in it.

After the concrete has set, a self-leveling floor is installed on the floor surface. The result is a strong and even base on which you can lay any floor covering.

Conclusion

Another scenario is also possible. In a house that does not have an attic, the roof slopes serve as the ceiling. This, in fact, also applies to the attic ceiling. Then the insulation is installed between the rafters. It may not be necessary to do lathing - it all depends on the design of the roof.

The technology of work here may not differ from that used to insulate the basement ceiling. When the internal surfaces of the walls and roof slopes are so well insulated, there is no need to insulate the ceiling either. Moreover, if the attic floor is heated, like all other rooms in the house.

We hope that we have helped you figure out how to insulate the ceiling. For clarity, we also suggest watching the video in this article.