How to make a wall from plasterboard. Plasterboard partitions in modern apartments: ease of design (52 photos)

Modern choice finishing materials allows you to easily carry out repairs of any complexity in own apartment or home. The main thing is that you have the necessary set of tools and detailed instructions.

Delineating space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy to process material. It has a lot of advantages and virtually no disadvantages.

Light weight.
Low price.
Ease of processing.
Good sound insulation.
No “wet” or dirty work during installation.
Variability of finishing of the outer layer.
A frame that allows the laying of any communications.

Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. Use wooden structure frame is impractical: wood rots, deforms over time, working with it requires additional effort and availability special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is no lower than a metal profile.

Other required materials

Sealing tape.
Reinforcing tape for fastening seams.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Self-tapping screws with press washer.
Dowel nails.
Putty for sealing seams between sheets of drywall.
Acrylic based primer.
Plasterboard sheets 12-14 mm thick.

What types of profiles are there for drywall?

Ordinary and familiar ceiling profiles for siding cannot be used for installation of plasterboard structures. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guide hardware is used to attach drywall to the ceiling or walls. There are 4 markings for guide profiles, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest are 50 by 40 mm, the widest are 100 by 40 mm. The length for all sizes is the same - 3 meters.

Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 by 50 mm to 100 by 50 mm. As can be seen from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. The length of the rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. The rack profile from which the vertical frame of the plasterboard partition is formed is not recommended to be increased in length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.

Tools required to construct a plasterboard partition

After everything necessary tools and materials have been purchased, you should carefully consider the future design of the partition and its location in the room.

Exactly the same marks are made on the second wall. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markings as follows: you need to draw a straight line along the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines coincide, then the markings are applied correctly. Along these lines the plasterboard partition will be attached to the wall and to the floor.

Marks on the ceiling are measured in the same way. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not tilt or skew in any direction.

Once the markings have been applied, you can begin installing the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. The guide fittings are screwed onto the ceiling. A rack profile is attached to the walls and floor.

A sealing rubberized tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is designed for tight mating of load-bearing wall structures with a partition. The sealing tape also plays the role of a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which the plasterboard structure may shrink or expand slightly. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.

To get into a room fenced off by a partition, you need a passage under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert a door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be strengthened. This can be done in several ways.

Insert the rack profiles into each other and fasten them together.
Insert a wooden beam inside the profile.
Reinforce the profile with a steel frame.
Place two rack profiles side by side.

According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the proposed door is made of lightweight materials and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier ones door leaves It is recommended to purchase a special reinforced rack profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.

You need to leave the required width (leaf size) under the doorway and add another 8 cm to the existing size for the door frame.

After the door profile is positioned, the top lintel is positioned and fastened between them.

The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway, a vertical sheathing is made from fittings, from floor to ceiling, step - 40-50 cm. After completion of the work, a kind of cage is obtained, with a vertically attached profile.

It is important to know

Mounting rack profiles is required in a certain order: The stiffener should be directed in the direction from which the frame will begin to be covered with plasterboard. This is due to the fact that the first sheets of drywall need to be attached from the edge side, the subsequent ones - to the remaining part of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended technology for covering the frame, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.

If you plan to lay communications ( electrical wires, computer and television cables), It is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.

If you plan to hang a picture or a lamp on the partition, then you need to install a crossbar from the profile in advance into the metal frame. The location of the jumper must be marked in order to later attach the accessory to the profile using self-tapping screws.

The width of the partition can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If you need stronger and reliable design, then the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, it is possible to improve the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition.

Cladding the erected profile frame with plasterboard

Rules for cutting sheet material

When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet should be less than the height of the walls and spaced 1 cm from the floor. When cutting the facing material, make sure that the cardboard and gypsum core are cut off special knife for cutting drywall. This will protect the material from cracking and breaking during cutting into the required size fragments.

It is advisable to process the edges with a roughing plane, then using an edge plane, a chamfer having an angle of 20-22 degrees is cut out at the ends.

It is worth knowing that sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, so when cutting drywall, you should take into account the spacing between the rack fittings.

The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long. Screws must be screwed to the profile after 15-20 cm; at jumpers and joints of sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm. Also, screws cannot be attached near the very edge of the sheet , optimally - 15 mm from the edge.

When attaching the facing material, you do not need to embed the screw heads into the drywall too much, maximum - 1 mm. The sunken caps can be puttyed later.

After one side of the partition is lined with plasterboard, you can begin installing soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.

Communication wires are routed through special holes in the metal profile.

For sound insulation, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, and isover. Each type of material has a whole set of useful properties, for example, polystyrene foam can be used in rooms with high humidity.

To soundproof a partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside sections of the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not stick out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can begin lining the second side of the partition.

After erecting the gypsum board structure, it is necessary to give it a presentable appearance. To do this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.

After priming, the drywall is puttied, smoothing out all the unevenness, hiding the fastener heads and seams. Putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, until it dries, a reinforcing tape is attached to the top of the putty and pressed down using a spatula.

Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house

It is worth knowing that if a plasterboard partition is to be covered with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely puttied. This is due to the fact that seams can show through thin wallpaper and spoil the entire appearance of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while it will be impossible to remove it. You'll have to put new wallpaper on top of the old ones.

Facade putty cannot be used for interior work. This material may release toxic substances and be harmful to health.

To erect partitions in places with unstable humidity and temperature conditions, it is recommended to use special sheets of plasterboard. They are painted in green color and have good moisture resistance. You can lay tiles on this material.

Video - Installation of a partition made of plasterboard from KNAUF

The main task of renovation in apartments and houses is to bring the walls into normal condition. Just a few decades ago, practically no one had heard of perfectly smooth walls. They leveled it out based on the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: delete old plaster and re-plaster along the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time-consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls using gypsum boards (plasterboard sheets).

The second problem that is most often solved in the process repair work, is a redevelopment. Old partitions are removed and new ones are installed in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using plasterboard. This article will talk about how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands: photos, videos.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when there is a need to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching plasterboard sheets to walls:

On a base made of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, but is attached directly to the wall itself. Too much big differences it is much more difficult to compensate; first you will have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cramping the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fastenings on wooden blocks is that if they are used insufficiently dry (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they may “lead” during drying, and therefore the entire structure will become warped. There is also a possibility of wood destruction by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since prices for lumber are much lower than for profiles.

Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to obtain a perfectly flat surface at any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps from which the frame is assembled so that front part the lintels and racks lay in the same plane. Since the gypsum boards are located at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of a profile frame is the possibility of installing a sound absorber and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without insulation it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

Installation of plasterboard sheets directly on the walls.

In other words, installing gypsum boards with glue. Use “liquid nails” or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with minor differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in piles if there are differences, and in strips if the walls are smooth), then the sheet is mounted in place, leveled using a level, secured with supports and wedges.

The latest technology, placing drywall on glue, is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. There is not glue under the sheets everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you have previously planned to attach something to the wall, install a mounting beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences; the surface is not perfectly flat (a difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the “pieces” of glue, the gypsum board bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos

So, when gluing a sheet to a wall, no fasteners are required; we will mainly talk about metal frame. The screws for fastening to wood are exactly the same, they just use special screws for wood.

Purpose of plasterboard sheets and their sizes

A few words about how to lay gypsum boards on walls and what sizes they come in. The standard sizes are: height – 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones, a little shorter in length. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

6 mm and 9 mm – designed for curved surfaces.

12.5 mm – universal material for ceilings and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling-grade. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer markets thin sheets, such as those used for finishing uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be turned indoors.

How to join sheets

If there is a need to join plasterboard sheets in height, try to position the joints so that a long line does not form; they are laid offset or staggered, preferably so that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By moving the seam, with almost a hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed with a shift of half the width (60 centimeters).

Rules for installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photos, videos

During installation, plasterboard sheets are pressed against the frame and secured using special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 screws (25x3.5 millimeters), in stores they are called “for drywall.” Color – white or black (more often broken), length – 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, similar-sized screws with a flat head are selected.

It is very important when installing fasteners to tighten the self-tapping screw desired depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, without tearing the cardboard; it should also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, thus reducing the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each plasterboard sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls in the middle of the profile.

Having made an indent of 10-12 millimeters from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be shifted or placed above one another. The installation step is 250-300 millimeters. Fastened along the middle profile and along the perimeter.

Another very important point is the height of the installed sheet; it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Do-it-yourself partition for a plasterboard wall: photo, video

Installing a partition is a little more complicated, so we will describe the process step by step.

Marking.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This straight line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If you don’t have a laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level ( High Quality). Then, using a level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting straight line should be located strictly above the line on the floor; this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on this.

Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the intended line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW – load-bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6*60 or 6*40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is no more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the supporting profile will determine how thick soundproofing material or insulation can be placed there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase bearing capacity, make it tougher. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the supporting one; they must be identical. It is between them that the insulation is installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in several ways. The first one is mainly used professional builders. They work with a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides and fastens two parts. During independent repair work with gypsum boards, amateurs attach them to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill into the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no holes need to be drilled). The racks are secured on each side with two self-tapping screws.

An important point: if you are installing a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the joint of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent squeaking. During walking, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the profiles; as a result, the profiles rub and a creaking occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided for, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width plasterboard sheet, which is usually equal to 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If the gap is still more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or the sheet will sag and wobble in this area. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is secured with self-tapping screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are set and secured, the structure is given rigidity using jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are placed at the height of the junction of two sheets; they must be secured. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, place 80 cm, if small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are prerequisite when covering gypsum boards. It is also advisable to reinforce them with a wooden block.

Laying communications, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying electrical wiring and communications. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses/apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, the use of polypropylene corrugated hoses from non-flammable material(marked “NG”).

Sheathing with heat/sound insulation and plasterboard.

After laying communications, they begin to install plasterboard sheets. They are installed exactly as for cladding. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with gypsum board on the other side. For partitions and walls, conventional insulation is used.

Expanded polystyrene. One of the types of polystyrene foam. It is distinguished by closed-shaped cells, due to which it has better characteristics: fungi do not develop, rodents do not like it, it dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, it is more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and can be easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. The downside is the high price.

Styrofoam. To obtain excellent thermal and sound insulation characteristics, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg/m3) is applied. It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burned it emits hazardous substances and rodents love it.

Mineral wool. This stone wool(basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt ones are considered the most environmentally friendly because they do not contain formaldehyde. They are quite easy to work with, hold up well, are easy to cut, are less afraid of moisture, and do not require protective equipment during installation. respiratory tract and skin. Their disadvantage is their high cost. The most affordable option of these insulation materials is slag wool, glass wool has an average price, and, of course, stone wool is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other insulation, but the above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When covering walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. This will require stationery knife, a long, level object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you need to cut the sheet.

We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

DIY plasterboard walls: photos, video tutorials

Unfortunately not all features this process can be described, some are better seen with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of a frame from profiles. Since this is truly one of the most labor-intensive works, and how smooth the partition and wall will be depends on how correctly the frame is formed.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This non-standard way frame assembly, but the racks turn out to be really rigid. This method must be used if you are building a full-fledged partition between rooms from gypsum plasterboard, in which case reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: corrugated or smooth?

On the market there is various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of metal, it is stiffer. How good he really is, look at the video.

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche from plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only technical aspects installation, but also the characteristics of the material itself.

Peculiarities

Drywall sheet is lightweight and flexible material, with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material you can either build a wall or build an ornate interior structure.

The structure of plasterboard sheet (GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached using glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

allow you to create perfectly smooth surfaces vertically and horizontally;
allow the construction of curved structures, as well as individual elements of the various shapes and complexity;
have good breathability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor microclimate;
differ in sound insulation;
characterized by high thermal insulation;
made from environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in case of fire;

are light in weight;
easy to install, do not require professional skills or special equipment for cladding;
the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
a coating made from this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work; for example, a partition made of plasterboard can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar structure made of brick will require two or more days.

Like any building material, plasterboard has some disadvantages that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

And attaching anything to such a covering is quite problematic - only dowels and screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf on it. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy; this will cause the wall to collapse at any moment.

Types of structures

Using plasterboard, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

walls that divide the room;
partitions of any shape;
complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made from gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made from other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Partitions made from plasterboard fiber are produced in a short time, their cost is much lower than options made from brick or wood. The false wall remains hollow inside, which makes it possible to lay the necessary utilities and provide additional insulation.

The material is light weight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience work with familiar tools that are found in every home.

There are a great many options for gypsum plasterboard partitions. The following are distinguished:

by profile type: regular and arched;
By functional purpose: temporary or capital;
by design type: solid or with an opening for a door or window;
by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls made of gypsum plasterboard differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are installed in order to hide flaws in the room and cover heating radiators. They do not require serious fasteners and are often supplemented stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models that have a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify general form premises, contribute to its division into different zones and add additional functionality to finishing elements. Such walls and partitions are installed frame method and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
cladding made from gypsum plasterboard sheets is used for walls or partitions;
The wall filling is glass wool or mineral wool, which contributes to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the technical characteristics There are several types of drywall:

Wall gypsum board It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives and is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
Ceiling gypsum board has a thickness of 9.5 mm, width is 1.2 m, length - 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification is widely used in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in ceiling cladding. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

GKLV– This is a moisture-resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of the wall version, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length can be 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and showers).
GKLO- This is a sheet of plasterboard with fire-resistant parameters. It has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber contains active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all this is enhanced by special fire-prevention impregnations. The material is widely used in areas where high demands are placed. fire safety, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering of all types of gypsum boards is fire resistant. This material does not burn, and at most only chars. But the core resists flame only in GKLO.

GKLVO is a moisture- and fire-resistant material that combines all the advantages of gypsum boards and gypsum boards.
Arched gypsum board used to create exquisite wave-like designs and rounded interior elements. Its width complies with the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, results in increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a fairly high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes Finishing work more expensive.

Design

Drywall has found application in covering surfaces and creating decorative elements indoors.

Ceiling

Today, plasterboard is one of the most popular materials for cladding ceilings and constructing multi-level suspended structures. Drywall is necessary for design in the following situations:

when the ceiling is uneven;
if necessary, hide utility lines laid on top - pipes, massive ventilation ducts, unsightly cables and others;
for the implementation of original interior solutions.

Ceiling finishing using gypsum plasterboard can be carried out in rooms of any type and purpose.

Walls

Almost any interior work for interior decoration are associated with the installation of drywall. It is used to create a perfectly even coating, arranging all kinds of niches and shelves, as well as constructing other elements designer design. In addition to its decorative function, gypsum boards also have a practical purpose - creates enhanced sound absorption and room insulation. Gypsum fiber sheets are mounted directly on the wall using glue or on a pre-assembled frame; as a rule, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used for this. Sometimes, to ensure greater structural strength, gypsum boards are laid in two or three layers.

Plasterboard lining is carried out in any room; it is most effective for cold walls facing the street, which freeze in the winter.

A plasterboard wall with thermal insulation helps to insulate the room, preventing the accumulation of dangerous condensation and the appearance of fungus. The final finish of a plasterboard wall can be anything.

Floor

Drywall can also be used to finish the floor using the dry method. Of course, for this purpose, exclusively especially durable sheets with increased abrasion resistance and resistance to mechanical damage are used. This coating is applied in two layers, then covered with any standard topcoat - parquet, linoleum, carpet, tile or laminate. The advantages of this method are obvious - the high speed of work and its cost-effectiveness.

In design, gypsum boards are often used to construct multi-level compositions, for example, podiums and ledges, which effectively mask unaesthetic pipes and other communications.

Partitions

When creating partitions, plasterboard is the number 1 material. It is most often used to divide a room and create a stylish and functional zoning space. Some structures can be built on the basis of a metal profile frame, which is fixed to the walls and ceiling, and then sheathed directly with gypsum fiber plates.

Built-in niches

Shelves with drawers look very impressive in the interior. plasterboard structures, and in houses with small children they are simply irreplaceable, because the baby will not be able to hit the sharp edges of the hanging elements. Niches are used to place small decorative elements in them that make the room cozy. These could be photographs, small souvenirs or books. The shape of such niches can be very different. As a rule, they are equipped with lighting, which makes the interior unusual and spectacular.

Tip: when installing niches Special attention You should pay attention to the weight of the products that are stored in the niche. Drywall can only support lightweight objects.

Frame

Most often, work on covering the surface with plasterboard is carried out using a frame method; for this purpose, wooden or metal sheathing. It is very important to apply the correct markings, since the strength and evenness of the future false wall largely depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

To do this, first mark the place on the floor where the mounting of the supporting panel will begin, the resulting indicator is projected onto the ceiling - this is the length of the frame. The distance between the wall and the marking is its width. Markings for rack-mount metal profiles are applied perpendicular to the floor on a nearby wall. The markings are presented in the form of vertical lines with a pitch of 50–60 cm; in the future, when attaching drywall to the plank, the edges of the sheet will be located along them.

When facing walls, it is important to remember that one wall is finished first, starting with the installation of guides and ending with the installation of gypsum boards, and only then does the transition to the next surface take place.

The work is carried out in several stages, namely:

the marks on the floor and walls need to be connected, and then guides are mounted along them;
the installation of hangers is carried out at a distance of 60–70 cm, their center must certainly be located along the line;
Rack-mount metal profiles are fixed into the guides so that their middle groove coincides with the upper and lower marks, and then they are connected to each other;
The building level controls the verticality of the base and shelves, after which you need to make the final fixation with self-tapping screws.

Application area

Drywall is used for various options performances such as:

ceiling finishing;
installation of partitions;
giving the walls perfect evenness;
construction of interior compositions of various arches, shelves, plinths;
masking unaesthetic and damaged surfaces;
repair of old coatings;
giving surfaces relief;
creating multi-level structures;
insulation, soundproofing of cavities and openings.

Drywall with increased moisture resistance is usually used for finishing bathrooms and kitchens. Fire-resistant modifications are widespread when lining communication shafts and air ducts, when telephone and Internet cables, plumbing systems and heating pipes, and ventilation devices. Drywall is used in both wooden and brick houses.

Drywall installation

The installation technology is quite simple. First, the sheet is cut. To do this, use a regular construction knife with a spare block of replaceable blades. The sequence of actions is described by instructions according to which the following actions must be performed:

the sheet is laid on a clean, flat surface;
markings are applied with a pencil;
using a knife, cut cardboard with outside;

The gypsum board is installed on the edge of the support, the sheet is carefully broken along the cut line;
the plasterboard panel is returned to its original position, placed on its edge and bent;
the cardboard from the inside is also cut through, but the blade should not pass through;
the sheet is turned over on the inside, placed again on the support and finally broken.

After the sheet has been prepared, you should begin directly assembling the installation with your own hands in accordance with the step-by-step instructions.

You need to do the following:

Guides are attached along the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor; self-tapping screws are used for this;
a sealing tape is placed under the fixed profile;
Planks are mounted to the profile along vertical markers, all work starts from the corners and leads to the center;
The stiffening ribs are fixed to self-tapping screws;

then communications, wires and cables are carried into the cavity, and they are also filled with mineral wool;
a sheet of drywall is attached directly to the frame;

the edges of the sheets are covered with putty or a reinforcing mesh is applied, then sanded;
A primer is applied over the panels and the finishing is carried out.

It is worth paying attention to the following points when installing gypsum boards:

the sheet is attached to metal profiles using 3.5x35 mm self-tapping screws;
First of all, the edges of the panel are attached, and then central part. Self-tapping screws are placed in increments of 10–25 cm;
the self-tapping screw is screwed in so that the caps slightly “sink” into the drywall; under no circumstances should they stick out above the surface;
If possible, before starting cladding, you should watch a master class on how to install drywall.

Drywall is a very popular material, so it is widely available in construction stores. At the same time, it absorbs moisture well, so if it is stored improperly in a warehouse, its consumer parameters can be significantly damaged. To avoid problems and purchase the highest quality product, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

try to purchase the product only in large stores that have established themselves as a reliable and stable seller, avoid dubious points of sale;
evaluate the conditions in which the plasterboard was stored, the cleanliness of the room and the level of humidity in it;

Personally inspect each purchased sheet of plasterboard; there should be no chips or deformations on it. On the product of proper quality No crooked bends, dents or scratches are allowed. Any violation of integrity will entail the breaking of the entire sheet in the damaged area;
You need to carefully monitor loading and unloading operations. Even if a sheet of drywall was purchased in perfect condition, this does not guarantee that it will arrive in the same condition. If the product was purchased and paid for, but defects were discovered later, then the warranty will not apply to it;
If possible, you should not purchase the entire batch with the required quantity at once. To start, you should buy one sheet to test it. For example, you can cut a sheet into strips; a high-quality sheet should have a strictly uniform core, a cut without inclusions, and the knife should move evenly and smoothly when cutting;
If you decide to buy a product from a dubious supplier, but at a very attractive price, then it is worth remembering that the stingy always pays twice. Handicraft products can not only crumble and break, but also be unsafe for health.

To protect yourself from counterfeits and defects, you should give preference to products from well-known brands.

About 70% of the Russian construction market is occupied by products of the German concern Knauf. This giant has production facilities all over the world. There are about 10 factories producing construction materials in Russia alone. The Knauf company is associated by many with high quality, reliability and practicality. About 10% of the market is accounted for by other European brands – Lafarge, Gyproc, Rigips.

Gyproc is a Scandinavian brand that has successfully established itself as one of the leaders in the global plasterboard market. In terms of production volumes in 2002, it took first place, leaving all its main competitors far behind. Distinctive feature GCR of this brand is highly environmentally safe, confirmed by the “Leaf of Life” and “Ecomaterial” certificates. In addition, Gyproc has released drywall that is 20% lighter than products from other manufacturers. However, its price is slightly higher than the cost of Knauf products.

Lafarge is a Polish manufacturer that has established production of drywall throughout the world. Even Knauf is inferior to this concern in terms of the number of production workshops. This allows you to reduce the cost of production, which is why Lafarge plasterboard has a fairly affordable price. It was this company that, at the beginning of this century, made a real revolution in the production of drywall, bringing to the market semicircular sheets, all edges of which were covered with cardboard. This type of panel processing has become unique business card companies.

About 20% of the market belongs to domestic companies. From the leading Russian manufacturers the following can be distinguished:

"Gypsum" (Volgograd)– produces drywall under the famous Volma brand. The products of this brand are distinguished by excellent performance characteristics and reasonable price.
Gifas (Sverdlovsk)– produces products of exceptionally high quality, which in terms of performance parameters are not inferior even to popular European brands.

Abdullingips (Kazan)– has established the production of conventional gypsum boards and gypsum boards, which are distinguished by their low price compared to other Russian analogues.
"Golden Group Gips" (Tolyatti)– produces sheets of plasterboard using equipment from the French concern Lafarge. The products are distinguished by exceptional quality and competitive prices.

It happens that you need to make zoning in a large room, sometimes it is necessary to separate part of a spacious room for an office or a nursery, in general, situations are different, but there is only one solution - installing plasterboard partitions. It is not at all necessary to make a wall that completely cuts off the space to be separated; sometimes a small partition, a hint of a partition, is enough, especially since this option will be much cheaper.

Why is installing plasterboard partitions better than walls made of other materials?

The main advantage of this material over others used in the construction of walls is the price. If you choose brick, you will have to buy quite a large number of building blocks, cement and sand (cheap materials in volume also affect costs), primer, Decoration Materials. To ensure that the technology for installing plasterboard partitions does not have any flaws, a few sheets of this material and a certain number of metal profiles, as well as a couple of kilograms of screws, are enough. We will talk about this in more detail below.

A number of other advantages can be listed at once, since all these advantages relate directly to working with the material. Firstly, the installation can be done by one person, and even without haste, the partitions will be assembled in a short time. Secondly, the process of assembling the frame in particular and installing plasterboard partitions in general is not too labor-intensive and does not involve a large number of construction waste(and generally with dirt). And thirdly, this material opens limitless possibilities for your creativity, in the sense that the designs can be given, the result is a smooth wall on which almost any finish can be applied.

The undoubted advantage of lightweight frame partitions is the ability to change their configuration literally on the go. That is, if additional sockets or switches are needed, it is easy to dismantle part of the structure, install additional wiring and install the elements necessary to supply electricity to the apartment. Two advantages immediately follow from this: the convenience of laying various communications inside the partitions and the ease of their dismantling if necessary.

How to make an estimate for the installation of plasterboard partitions?

To ensure that during the process of assembling the frame it does not become clear that there is not enough material, or that subsequently there is no surplus left, which would be enough for another structure, the consumption of profiles and drywall should be calculated. Also, before making a frame for the partition, you need to calculate the amount of accompanying materials. First, we measure the room and determine what kind of partition it will be. If it is continuous, across the entire room, then we simply take the necessary measurements without taking into account the doorway and estimate the number of CW and UW profiles, based on the fact that they are installed in increments of 60 centimeters, and their lengths are 2.75, 3, 4, 4.5 and 6 meters. Measuring the wall is even easier.

The cost of installing frame plasterboard partitions directly depends on their area. As a rule, sheet sizes are 1.2x2.5 or 1.2x3 meters. It is logical that if the ceiling height is 2.5 meters, the first option is preferable, and if it is higher, then the second, in order to eliminate horizontal seams, which are inevitable in high-ceiling apartments. The sheet area is either 3 or 3.6 square meters. Now all that remains is to divide the previously recorded area of the partition by the square footage of a unit of drywall and get the number of sheets, which should be multiplied by two, since the sheathing will be double-sided. And add a reserve 10%.

Concerning additional materials, then you will need mounting brackets, the total number of which can be calculated based on the fact that they are mounted on the walls with an interval of about 50 centimeters. You can attach profiles directly to walls, ceilings and floors. Installation of the profile around the perimeter of the future frame is carried out with self-tapping screws, with or without dowels, every 30-50 centimeters, and for fastening drywall, about 60 screws per sheet are required. It is better to take damper tape or serpyanka with a reserve. The amount of mineral wool for sound insulation corresponds to the area of the partition made in one layer, and for a multi-layer construction you will need 2 times more wool.

It is advisable to lay serpyanka or damper tape at the junction of a metal profile or wooden beam with sheets of plasterboard, this will significantly increase the sound insulation of the structure.

Step-by-step installation of interior plasterboard partitions

So, the materials have been calculated and purchased, profiles, plasterboard sheets, damper tape, screws and dowels, corrugated pipes, as well as soundproofing material are available.

However, before making a frame partition, you need to prepare the necessary tools. We will need an electric drill with a hammer drill function, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a construction knife, metal scissors, a plumb line, a level, a measuring tape, a tapping thread, and a pencil.

Installation of plasterboard partitions - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking the room

Depending on the size of the area, you may need more than one partition.

Let’s consider just this option, and, for simplicity, a single-layer one. First, we measure the required distance from the wall parallel to which the structure will be installed, and make marks.

We transfer it to the wall and ceiling using a plumb line, which we hold exactly above the line, placing pencil dots at small intervals until the markings for the guides cover the room with a vertical belt.

Step 2: Installing the Guides

So, the lines cover the vertical perimeter of the room everywhere where the partitions should go, installing guides for which we will now proceed. To begin with, we glue damper tape onto the profiles; it will serve as vibration insulation for structural parts fixed to the floor, walls and ceiling.

We lay the profile exactly along the line, down with the tape, drill a hole if, then use a screw with a dowel, and fix it on wooden surfaces with self-tapping screws.

We mark doorways in advance and do not install profiles in their place.

Step 3: Frame installation

Depending on the length of the purchased profiles, we cut them off or extend them, focusing on the height of the ceiling, and insert the finished elements into the guides at equal sixty-centimeter intervals.

It is not necessary to fasten them immediately; only profiles require fixing them with screws to the guides doorways, and you need to especially carefully check their verticality.

Step 4: Forming Openings

For the lintels, we cut off pieces of profiles, the length of which should be 6 centimeters greater than the width of the openings. Along the edges, we cut out 3 centimeters in the shelves of the bases of the resulting parts, leaving the sidewalls, after which we fix them clearly horizontally with screws at a height of 207 centimeters.

As an additional fastener, we use a vertical piece of profile (cut at the edges in the same way), connecting the lintel to the upper rail.

For greater strength of the doors, we install additional vertical profiles at a distance of ten centimeters from the “jambs”.

Step 5: Preparing the Drywall

Let's start installing drywall. If the sheets are slightly larger than the height of the room, cut them to the required size using a construction knife. To do this, make a deep cut, after which we carefully bend it along it until the fragment to be separated breaks off, then along the fold of the second cardboard side we finally cut off the excess piece. You can use a saw, but there will be more dust. If the sheets match the height of the ceiling, we immediately begin installation.

Step 6: Installation of the first side of the partition

The step between the screws in the process of fixing the sheets is kept to no more than 20 centimeters.

If, after marking, it turns out that the partition will need several whole sheets and one halved one, and the drywall is planned to be laid in two layers, we start the first layer with half, finish it, and start the second layer with a whole sheet.

It may turn out that the sheets are shorter than the height of the room, then you will have to supplement them with small fragments.

In this case, frame interior room partitions made of plasterboard can be assembled with your own hands according to a simple scheme. When laying the coating in one layer, we move each sheet in relation to the previous one up or down so that the horizontal seams are either at the floor or at the ceiling.

For two-layer coating bottom sheets we lay it so that the horizontal seams run along the floor, and we install the top sheets with additional fragments laid along the ceiling.

Step 7: Difficult areas of the structure

Fixing the drywall to doorway, we go around the frame and with back side make a cut in the sheet with a construction knife inside the opening, along the profile itself, then take a saw and cut out the entire rectangle of the door. By extending the sheets with additional strips, it is not enough to attach the latter only to the frame, so from the inside we put profile scraps on the seams and fasten them with outside screws.

If the structure is mounted in the attic, you will definitely be faced with the need to give the drywall the appropriate shape.

We make all measurements of the bevels using a plumb line and a tape measure directly on the frame, after which we make the corresponding marks on the sheet and cut it with a construction knife, as mentioned above.

The filler will hold perfectly if one edge is inserted into the profile and the other is rested against the base of the adjacent frame post.

Step 9: Installation of the second side of the partition

Before installation is complete interior partitions made of plasterboard, namely, installation of sheets on the other side of the frame, it is necessary to outline in advance where the sockets and switches for lighting fixtures. For them, as well as for light wall lamps, you should immediately, using a special crown-shaped attachment on a drill, cut holes and lead the wires into them. Only after this we fix the drywall in the same way as we did before.

To make a room unique and original, designers use methods of zoning rooms. One of these methods is interior partitions. There are many types of partitions ( brick, wood, glass etc.), but the most optimal choice- This is a partition made of plasterboard. It is light, durable, does not take up much space, and most importantly, you can build it yourself. Let's find out how to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands - step-by-step instruction this process will make your task easier.

Plasterboard partition in the interior of the house

During construction, houses are most often not provided internal partitions, but only load-bearing walls. This is done so that the owners themselves decide what size rooms they want and where to place the partitions. To implement various ideas, you can use a material such as drywall. It is not heavy, bends easily and will help fulfill any designer’s imagination.

Plasterboard partitions can be used to zone space, complement furniture, a television area or an aquarium, create beautiful niches and simply beautiful decorative partition. With its help, you can create beautiful shaped elements that will move from the partition to the ceiling or adjacent walls, create interesting lighting (all cables will be safely hidden inside the structure), or create niches for storing books, favorite trinkets and paintings. It all depends on the flight of fancy of the owner of the premises. And such a wonderful material as drywall will help bring this beauty to life.

Note: The main advantage of such structures is easy dismantling. For example, if your life changes, you can easily remove such a partition during renovation and make a new one in another place, or simply expand the space in the room.

How to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands? Step-by-step instruction.

Making a partition from plasterboard yourself is not difficult. Let's look at how to do this. To carry out the work you will need:

Screwdriver and hammer drill.
Guide and rack profile.
Self-tapping screws and dowels.
Plumb, level or laser level.
Drywall.
Tape measure and marker.
Construction knife.
Metal scissors.
Hammer.
Reinforcing tape.
Primer, putty and spatula.

In addition, if the partition has switches or lighting, you will need:

cables;
sockets;
switches and lamps.

To begin with, we select a place for the future structure and, using a level, draw the exact location of the guide profiles along the perimeter of the partition.

Tip: For more accurate markings, it is better to use a laser level. But since this is an expensive item, it can be rented from the appropriate organizations.

On next stage measure the required size of the profiles and cut it off. You can start installation. We apply the profile to the wall along the mark and drill holes for the dowels with a hammer drill. The distance between the holes is 30 - 40 cm. The perimeter of the partition is mounted in this way.

Next, the rack profiles are mounted. We measure the height of the room using a tape measure or other measuring devices and cut the profile 10 mm smaller. First, profiles are installed at the location of the opening. The horizontal jumper is cut out the right size and is secured with self-tapping screws on profiles installed in the location of the doorway.

Tip: If you plan to install a door in an opening, the profiles should be strengthened with a wooden beam inserted into the middle.

After this, the remaining profiles are placed at a distance of 60 cm or at the rate of 3 profiles per 1 sheet of drywall.

Rack profiles are attached to the guides using self-tapping screws. Now you can install the drywall sheets. To do this, the height of the sheet must be less room by 10 mm. If the sheet is larger than the required size, it can be cut using a construction knife.

On the cut edge we make a chamfer at an angle of 300 for convenient filling of the wall. The drywall is attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, first to the middle profile, and then to the outer ones. The distance between the screws is 25 – 30 cm.

After covering one side of the partition, we lay the cables for future wiring through the holes in the profiles. Now you can lay soundproofing material and sew up the structure on the other side. After attaching the drywall, the joints and screw locations should be treated with a primer. Next, apply putty to the joints, glue the reinforcing tape and putty again. To install lamps or switches, we make holes using a cutter. The partition is ready. For a more aesthetic appearance of the partition, the entire surface of the drywall should be puttied.

To know detailed information For installation of a plasterboard partition, see the video:

Where would a plasterboard partition be appropriate?

As you know, a partition is a lightweight version of a wall, the main function of which is to divide space. But there are also partitions that serve as a decorative element in the room and are decoration. For example, a plasterboard partition will fit perfectly in the bedroom for highlighting the dressing area or emphasize sleeping area in a studio apartment. She can serve in one-room apartment for visual zoning and dividing a room into several separate rooms. In its cavity you can hide various communications(cables, pipes, installations for wall-hung toilets).

It's also possible beat the aquarium, which will be visible from two rooms or television zone. Using a partition you can hide built-in furniture and give the room lightness and space. A highlight openings using arched structures is now available to everyone, since these building materials are not expensive. Can make a partition with shelves for books and other little things needed in the household. And decorative lighting will give the room lightness and airiness.

Do not stop at the proposed options; any idea you implement will add comfort and individuality to your home.

Photos of interior partitions

As can be seen in the photographs of interior partitions presented on various sites on the Internet, everything that was described earlier is a small part of what can be done using plasterboard partitions. Such designs can be presented in various architectural styles and directions in design. Below are photos of some original ideas for plasterboard partitions.