How to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling: choose what to seal the seams between the panels, the work process. How to seal the seams between the slabs on the ceiling: quick elimination of the defect Sealing the seam on the ceiling

There will inevitably be seams between the floor slabs on the ceiling.

Do not combine old putty with new putty. The old putty has already dried, lumps have formed in it, due to which it will be impossible to achieve a smooth ceiling.

They do not decorate the interior of the room at all. To seal them, you need to do the following:

• expand by removing concrete aggregate from the joint;
• coat it with a primer;
• fill the seam polyurethane foam;
• cut off excess foam after it dries;
• level the surface using gypsum plaster mixture;
• perform final leveling of the ceiling;
• Use PVA glue to glue a strip of thin non-woven fabric or gauze to the joint;
• putty the seams;
• After the putty has dried, sand it with emery cloth or mesh.

Tools and materials

To perform ceiling repair work may need:

• spatula with an elastic flexible blade;
• dry gypsum putty (preferably Knauf, Uniflot);
• drill or hammer drill;
• masking tape;
• mixer attachment for drill;
• PVA glue;
• primer with deep penetration properties;
• fine-grain sandpaper or sanding mesh;
• construction pistol;
• acrylic sealant.

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Work order

Repairing irregularities in the ceiling can take place in the following sequence:

1. Expand the seam between the floor slabs using an electric hammer drill with a spatula-shaped attachment. Use a spatula or knife to remove pieces of old cement screed and filler.
2. Clean the ceiling surface and cracks from dust. Prepare the primer according to the instructions for use. Use a brush to coat the ceiling seams. The primer should penetrate well into the cracks. The primer layer must be dried.
3. Prepare gypsum plaster according to the attached instructions. Mix the mixture thoroughly with a construction mixer. A small volume can be mixed with a spatula. The prepared solution for sealing joints should have the consistency of very thick sour cream. It carefully fills all the cracks and unevenness on the ceiling. It is better to repair deep cracks in several steps. Each layer dries well. A seam of large width and depth can be filled with polyurethane foam. After drying, cut off excess foam with a knife. The sealing ends with the application of a leveling layer gypsum plaster, thoroughly rubbing it into the pores of the foam.
4. After the seams have completely dried, they are coated with PVA glue and sealed with a strip masking tape. The width of the tape should be 2-3 cm wider than the seams. A thin layer of putty is applied over the tape.
5. After the repaired seams have dried, another layer of primer and finishing putty are applied to the entire surface of the ceiling. It is better to apply it with a wide spatula as much as possible thin layer. Instead of finishing putty or plaster, you can glue the surface with painting fiberglass, prime and paint the ceiling. The sealing of the ceiling seams is completed.

Sealing seams is not very easy. The material hardens for a long time, the putty tends to fall down. You need to hold it with a spatula for several seconds. The main thing in this work is not to rush. Otherwise, you will have to redo all the work again.

The easiest way to hide unevenness and cracks in the ceiling is with stretch ceiling. Another option is to mount a suspended, possibly multi-level, ceiling made of plasterboard sheets. You can use fiberglass painting mesh and various dry mixtures. A fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm is laid over each seam between the floor slabs. It also masks the seams in plasterboard ceiling. On such a ceiling, they are first glued with paper tape, and only then reinforced with mesh.

You can seal the seam between the plasterboard sheets in the following sequence:

1. Joint and surface part plasterboard sheet coated with putty mixture in a layer about a millimeter thick.
2. Placed on the seam paper tape, pressed into the solution, smoothed with a spatula and covered with a thin layer of putty.
3. Excess putty mass is removed with a wide spatula.
4. Each seam is sealed in a similar manner.
5. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with emery cloth or mesh and primed.
6. A fiberglass mesh is attached to the surface of the entire ceiling. You can temporarily secure it with push pins. A layer of putty is applied over the mesh and then carefully smoothed. The putty penetrates through the mesh cells and firmly adheres it to the sheets of drywall. Excess putty is removed with a spatula.
7. After drying, the ceiling is sanded and primed again.
8. If necessary, apply a final leveling layer of putty. It should completely hide the traces of screws and seams, mesh and paper. The sealing of the seams on the ceiling is completed.

As a result, at least two layers of putty are applied to the ceiling surface. Using a grid adds at least one more. Between applying these layers, the surface is dried, sanded and primed. In order to save time, you should not reduce the number of these cycles. This preliminary work guarantees the quality and durability of the ceiling. Only after this the ceiling is ready for final finishing. You can paint it any color, cover it with wallpaper, tiles, and so on. The approximate consumption of dry mixture for putty is 1 kg per 3-4 square meters area of ​​plasterboard ceiling.

Any suspended ceiling, and the tensioner is no exception; after installation is completed, it needs decorative finishing along the perimeter. There is a gap where the ceiling meets the wall. Different suspended structures have their own preferred options for how to close this gap and give the structure a complete look. A stretch ceiling is a universal system, since it can use both a special plinth and a traditional decorative profile for any ceiling.

Therefore, there are two options for how to design the joint between the ceiling and the wall: use a special plinth (quick installation) or spend time and effort creating an exquisite finish.

Using stubs

A special plinth for installation on a suspended ceiling is a practical option. It will hide the gap between the two surfaces, but the frame itself will not stand out. This option is characterized by simplicity and laconic finishing. Externally, the ceiling will simply fit snugly against the wall.

Important! If the customer does not receive any wishes regarding the design of the perimeter, then the craftsmen themselves offer to install such a plinth on the suspended ceiling.

If the stretch ceiling is single-level, and it was installed in a room in ordinary apartment, then use either an F-shaped plinth or an L-shaped one. The latter is also called the wall corner.

IN large rooms They also use a dividing profile with a separating plug. This plinth differs from others in that it has a symmetrical profile: two locks and two shelves that cover the panel on both sides of the joint.

The L-shaped plinth has one edge with hooks, which is inserted into the load-bearing profile of the trim. It is made from soft types of plastic, so it is flexible and allows you to make a joint along a curved line.

F-shaped baseboards are rigid and are installed on flat surfaces, mainly tile or drywall. Due to its rigidity, it holds a straight line well, which is important for the overall impression of neat framing.

To install such a plinth, the owner will need a few minutes. Using the fastening rib, the corner is inserted into the profile and pushed through with pressure. To do this, use a blunt spatula.

Except quick installation, such a plinth has a number of other advantages:

• Repeated dismantling without damaging the baseboard itself and finishing materials. If you need to remove the canvas, the plinth is easily removed from the groove and inserted back.
• A soft L-shaped plinth will hide the joint in curved structures.
• Of all the options, this is the cheapest material.
• A laconic design may be the most harmonious solution for an interior in a minimalist style, where curly decorative details are not welcome.

An equally colorful assortment of decorative plugs is produced for a wide range of fabric and film materials. This is done not from an excess of imagination, but because it is advisable to select a plug of the same color for any canvas. The fact is that over a long span the decorative tape gives a wave, no matter how hard the master tries to even it out. A plinth of the same tone will only mark the smooth edge of the ceiling, and the wave will not be noticeable.

It is important to choose the right baseboard for the installed load-bearing molding. There are plugs that are used only for baguettes of the harpoon system; in others, the fastening ribs are designed for the baguette of the wedge installation technology. There is a difference between plugs for aluminum and plastic baguettes. Therefore, returning to the previous recommendation, rely on a master installer. If you have to buy masking tape yourself, then take a piece of the supporting profile with you so that you can select a suitable baseboard in the store.

Video of how the decorative plug is fixed:

The quality of wall finishing plays an important role when choosing a baguette for a suspended ceiling. If they are uneven, then it is better to abandon the standard masking tape and use a wide baseboard made of polyurethane or foam.

Decorative baguettes

Decorative plinth is chosen by those owners for whom the stretched canvas does not yet mean the end of the work on decorating the ceiling space. In this case, the plinth not only hides the joint, but also performs an important decorative function. Although it can be installed flush against the ceiling, more often it is mounted at a lower level. A stretch ceiling looks much more impressive with lighting, and lamps are installed in this niche.

Of all the variety of forms, a smooth extruded type plinth will be a win-win. The smooth baguette harmoniously combines with the glossy surface of the film in any setting. Imitation skirting board decorative stucco molding requires a balanced approach, taking into account the style of the rest of the interior.

Any baguettes made of polyurethane or polystyrene are used under the tension fabric, but with some installation features. Since the plinth cannot be glued to film or fabric, it is only attached to one side to a vertical surface. Hence some nuances regarding the selection and installation of decorative moldings:

• If the perimeter of the room is flat, then it is better to use light foam baseboard It is glued to acrylic liquid nails or regular finishing putty.
• For structures with curved lines, polyurethane is used because it bends well. But this material is heavy, so Special attention pay attention to preparing the base surface and the right choice glue for installation.
• To ensure that the baguette is held firmly, choose a profile with a vertically elongated cross-section and a wide mounting flange.
• The wallpaper is glued after installing the baguette, carefully trimming it using a wide spatula.
• When installed close to the film, a small gap is still left so that the film does not clap against the baseboard during vibration.

The disadvantages associated with the complexity of installation are obvious:

• Even in rectangular room with an even perimeter, you will need to trim the baguette in four corners, and not everyone can do this neatly. Even experienced craftsmen use a miter box for this.

• You will have to deal with putty or acrylic adhesives. To make the plinth monolithic, the joints in the corners and cracks are sealed.
• The plinth is painted several times. If the first layer is not difficult to complete, then when finishing painting the glued baguette you need to try not to stain the canvas.

Important! You won't be able to remove the baseboard without damaging it. If it is necessary to dismantle the canvas, the baguette is torn off and after installing the film in place, a new one is purchased.

If desired, you can install plaster stucco. In this case, we are talking about creating an entire cornice-type composition using elements of pilasters, curly moldings, and columns. Such decorations decorate complex multi-level structures, with a combined finish.

Wooden skirting boards are installed only in rooms decorated with wood, where other materials are inappropriate.

Decorative braid

IN Lately appeared new way designing the outline of the ceiling using a decorative cord. This element will not only hide the joint between the vertical and horizontal planes, clearly separate the canvas and the vertical surface, but will also become a bright detail that requires and special style throughout the rest of the interior.

The texture of the braid can be woven or twisted. It is installed in the same way as plastic skirting board: pressed into the profile groove. But at the same time it is necessary to control the straightness of the edging, so on straight sections they use long rule, and on curved ones they rely on eye and patience.

There are the following types of decorative cord for installation in a suspended ceiling:

• Cord with woven core. For elasticity, rubber veins are woven into the threads. Due to this, when pressed unevenly, the cord tends to straighten, thereby helping the craftsman obtain a straight edge.
• With metal amplifier. Allows you to get a smooth bend on bent lines.
• A cord with a single-color braid or with multi-colored threads.

As a rule, the interior always contains garlands and picturesque ornaments inherent in the classic, empire, and baroque styles.

How to seal or close a joint

Regardless of what kind of ceiling is installed in the apartment - suspended ceiling, plasterboard, whether it is covered with tiles or wallpaper, or simply painted, in order for it to look complete, it is necessary to carry out finishing touch- make a joint.

The gap where the ceiling meets the wall looks untidy, and the structure itself looks unfinished. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a way to decorate this area so that it does not stand out from the overall composition.

Methods for designing a joint

Having perfectly smooth surfaces of the walls and ceiling, additional design of the joint may not be required unless the style of the room requires it, when molding is simply necessary to maintain a special atmosphere. If not, then the joint looks natural and smooth, forming a clear right angle without gaps.

Sometimes, with a perfectly even joining seam, in order to create an optical illusion and “raise” the ceiling, top part the walls are painted.

If there are even small gaps, the use of special masking devices will be required at the joint. The instructions for use usually consist of simple manipulations and do not require special skills and tools, so this work can be easily done with your own hands.

Masking tape for stretch ceilings

The joint between the wall and the ceiling made of tension fabric is masked using a PVC plug in the form of a special profile or insert (read more). The junction of several levels and the junction of the structure with the wall acquire a finished, neat appearance.

To do this, you will need to place a plug in the baguette slot, where, during the installation of the canvas, the and, or profile is inserted. When flooded from above, such an insert can be easily removed, the canvas is dismantled and the water is drained, and then the product is installed in place.

There are several types of plugs for suspended ceilings:

1. To accurately connect the tension fabric and slightly curved walls, an L-shaped wall elastic profile is installed in their direction;

1. To design the junction of the tension fabric with a tiled or porcelain stoneware wall, T-type plugs are used. In this case, the color of the product can be chosen to match the ceiling or in contrast;
2. If it is necessary to combine fabrics of different colors and textures, use a profile that differs from the shape of the baguette. In this case, the plug masking such a profile is secured in a different way than described earlier.

A wide decorative border is used to contrast colors, creating a clear, noticeable boundary between the ceiling and walls.

Black or white inserts are usually used. White canvas most common due to the fact that its price is lower and universal White color allows you to visually increase the height of the room.

Using a white edging, the gap between the light-colored canvas and the same wall is masked. And with the help of black, the border between two planes will be emphasized. You can choose a colored plug to match the ceiling or wall.

Thanks to the fact that PVC manufacturing tapes are placed in reels of 100 meters or more; products of the required length can be purchased in the store.

Fabric cord

The use of thick fabric twisted cord is alternative solution when the question arises of how to arrange the gap between tension fabric and a wall. The product is pressed into the baguette slot.

With the help of this decorative element You can emphasize the transition between the ceiling and the wall, drawing attention to the structure, thanks to the expressive appearance of the cord. It looks especially impressive in combination with satin and fabric fabrics.

Important! It is necessary to ensure tight contact of the cord with the wall and the edge of the stretch ceiling. If necessary, it can be “seated” on the sealant, but this will create difficulties if you need to temporarily remove the product.

One of the advantages of the edging cord is its flexibility, which allows you to design curved elements of the hanging structure. And a wide choice color solutions and textures allows you to choose the design for any interior. Such a cord will look especially organic against the background of fabric wallpaper.

Fabric cords can be plain or multi-colored, consisting of several shades with embossed braiding. They may have metal threads or rubber veins as decorative inserts.

You can choose products with a pattern of the desired theme. For a rich classic interior, you can use lurex cords - imitation of silver or gold threads.

Ceiling molding

You can give a finished look to the ceiling - suspended, made of plasterboard or simple, painted white - with the help of moldings, which have long become familiar. They may have different widths, material of manufacture, color and texture.

Wide range of products offered by manufacturers ceiling decor products, allows you to select elements for decoration in any interior.

The term “molding” refers to various elements of stucco molding for decorating the ceiling and walls. For the overlay profile that decorates the joint, the name “ceiling molding”, “plinth” or “border” is used.

The material used to manufacture such products can be:

1. Wood;
2. Polyurethane;
3. Polystyrene;
4. Natural gypsum.

Wood moldings

With help you can give the room respectability. This finish is appropriate in classic interiors, as well as where wooden suspended or false ceilings are installed.

The price of such products depends on the type of wood that was used to make them. For medium skirting boards price segment spruce, poplar or alder are used. Expensive items include products made from oak, yew or mahogany.

The advantages of wooden skirting boards include the following:

1. Thanks to its natural origin, natural beauty and ideal environmental performance wooden skirting boards can be used in residential areas;
2. Natural wood can be treated with stain, varnish, enriching its natural pattern and shade, or painted in any color with paint;
3. If you paint the molding the same color as the walls, the ceiling will become visually higher and the room will acquire additional volume;
4. You can make the room more compact by painting the baseboard the same color as the ceiling.

Important! It takes special skills to install wood molding correctly.

Foam molding

Foam molding is the most budget option design of the joint between the wall and the ceiling. These products are easy to use, they weigh little and are easy to cut with ordinary scissors. But you should be careful not to accidentally damage the foam border, as it is quite fragile.

The disadvantage of this material, like the wood discussed above, is flammability.

Polystyrene molding

Manufactured by extrusion. Such products are distinguished by a clear relief and have a smooth matte surface. Such products are harder and more durable than their foam counterparts.

One of positive qualities This material is affordable.

The advantages of this material are that it does not contribute to the maintenance and spread of fire. Polystyrene is also easy to work with, it is easy to cut, but it is more resistant to mechanical stress.

Polyurethane molding

Polyurethane plinth is practical to use, it can be painted, and due to the presence of rubber in its composition, this material can bend without losing its integrity, which allows it to be used to design semicircular structures.

Such borders can have a smooth, even surface or patterned, with a clear pattern and maximum detailing of small elements.

Among the positive qualities of the material, the following can be noted:

1. Environmental friendliness;
2. The products do not have a specific odor;
3. The material is non-flammable;
4. The products are light in weight;
5. The material is easy to install;
6. Have a pre-primed white surface, which can be painted any color if desired. In this case, the paint is distributed evenly.

Plaster molding

Gypsum moldings, which are also used to decorate the ceiling where it meets the wall, can be considered an exclusive type of finishing.

Not only because all parts are manufactured manually and have a high cost, but also due to some unique properties gypsum:

1. Being natural material, gypsum and products made from it are 100% environmentally friendly. They do not release toxins and do not cause allergies;
2. Gypsum is an absolutely fireproof material;
3. Plaster does not conduct electricity;

1. Not afraid of temperature changes;
2. Gypsum is a hygroscopic material. It takes excess moisture from the air, and when there is a lack of it, it gives it away;
3. Each product is unique as it is created by hand. This allows us to produce moldings with the necessary, sometimes non-standard shape and width;

1. A drawing and relief created with one’s own hand can have precise rendering of voluminous small details;
2. With the help of gypsum cornices you can successfully disguise not only the joint between the wall and the ceiling, but also advantageously design various kinds technical holes, pipes, electrical wiring;
3. The finish is monolithic and seamless.

Gypsum stucco molding can be painted, patinated, acquiring an aged appearance, and it can be coated with gold.

The video in this article will tell you how to design the joint between the ceiling and the wall.

When renovating an apartment, one of the most difficult areas is the ceiling. Due to the shrinkage of the house, subsidence or soil movement, cracks of varying depths form between the floors. Create beautiful view interior with cracks in the ceiling will not be possible, therefore, the seams between the floor slabs will have to be sealed. The procedure can be done manually, but has a number of features.

Tools and materials

Sealing the seams on the ceiling will require the preparation of tools and materials. They should be prepared before starting ceiling works with slabs.

Spatula with flexible elastic blade

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs? This type of work requires:

• primer deep penetration, better . The primer is intended to improve adhesion concrete surface and the material with which it is planned to seal the cracks;
• cement brand NTs, it is used to eliminate deep recesses. The main difference from the standard composition is the ability to expand and fill holes during the solidification process;
• for wide cracks, thermal insulation material is useful; the filler is construction foam, polyurethane or polyethylene foam;
• putty with elastic material (latex);
• sealant;
• reinforced mesh with a width of 4-5 cm, if the width of the crack allows you to place metal base inside;
• starting and finishing putty.

When treating the ceiling, as well as the floor and walls, you will need basic electrical appliances. The type of tool depends on the seam sealing technology; usually it is enough:

• spatulas of various sizes;
• metal brush;
• spray bottle;
• construction knife;
• hammer drill, easy to replace with a drill with impact mode;
• sandpaper.

What tools will we need?

Before closing the joints of the slabs on the ceiling, you should take care of personal safety: eye protection glasses, a respirator, comfortable gloves and overalls.

How to remove seams on the ceiling: preparatory stage

Before sealing the seams on the ceiling, it is important to carry out the coating preparation stage. The surface should be durable and primed. It is better to remove any coatings with weak fixation: old putty, paint, wallpaper, cement, lime, etc.

It is better to seal the seams of floor slabs in clean room(after wet cleaning). To achieve better adhesion and normal mineralization of the working solution, the room must be dry. Primer is applied on top of the cleaned ceiling surface.

Before proceeding to apply the next layer, it is important to wait until the previous one has hardened. The amount of time depends on the temperature and type of material.

Working with a wide, shallow joint

If there are shallow cracks between floor slabs with a width of 3 cm or more, it is better to use filler, polyurethane foam.

Repairing a seam is quite a labor-intensive job that must be done scrupulously, otherwise the bad work will be visible later

How to seal a seam between ceiling tiles using foam? For this:

1. Insert into the recess mounting gun and fill the hole with foam.
2. Wait for the foam to dry, usually takes about 2-4 hours.
3. All protruding parts are removed with a construction knife; it is better to make a recess of a few millimeters for better grip, but the depth should not exceed 5 mm.
4. The recess is treated with elastic putty. It is convenient to use the material using 2 spatulas: narrow and wide. On wide instrument the mixture is stored, and the putty is applied with a narrow spatula.
5. Cover the seams on the ceiling with a wide spatula, removing excess and other defects.

Working with a wide joint of great depth

If you have to seal a seam between tiles on a ceiling with a width of more than 3 cm and a relatively large depth, you should not use foam.

Work algorithm:

1. Filling the Notch thermal insulation material. Foamed polyethylene and polyurethane foam are suitable for this purpose.
2. Fixing the insulation using a sealant with maximum resistance to moisture.
3. After sealing the crack, the gap is sealed with NC cement, but a small groove with a depth of up to 5 mm is left.
4. After the cement has completely hardened, a latex type of putty is applied on top, and the plane of the slab is leveled with it.
5. Using a spatula, remove the excess layer of preliminary putty and level it as much as possible.

Instead of foam for sealing deep cracks, you can use glue for ceramic tiles

Working with deep and narrow joints

It is better to seal narrow but deep seams between floor slabs using the same method as in the previous case.

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs? The sequence of work is as follows:

1. A sealant is applied to a piece of insulation and placed inside the groove. The material should be pushed firmly into the recess.
2. After high-quality compaction with insulation, there should be about 1 cm of depth left for adding NC cement. It is important to leave a 5mm recess.
3. To the frozen cement mortar apply latex putty and level it with a spatula.

Next steps

Sealing the seams between the panels is not completed in the previous steps. It is important to carry out the entire processing complex so that defects do not appear in the future. Otherwise, when the soil and the base of the building move, the floor seams will crack again, and all work will be in vain.

The reason for the appearance of cracks may be incorrect calculation of the load on the structure or neglect of construction technology, which causes the building to shrink. It is important at the stage of building a house to take into account the weight of the house insulation and lay the water supply system in advance to prevent destruction load-bearing walls and the foundation subsequently.

Latex putty. This kind of putty is more suitable for sealing seams.

Protection of joints between floor slabs from destruction is carried out in stages:

1. Wait for the latex putty to harden; complete drying takes about 2 days.
2. Preparation for reinforcement of the recess. Apply a starting layer of putty, it is laid with a small protrusion beyond the edges of 4-5 cm.
3. A reinforcing mesh is pressed into the material; a roller or narrow spatula will do.
4. Use a spatula to run along the putty to remove excess.
5. After the material has hardened, the surface should be treated sandpaper with fine or medium grain.
6. Reapplication starting putty will help create an ideal plane; sanding is done with fine-grained sandpaper.
7. A finishing putty coating is applied on top.
8. After hardening, re-treat with sandpaper.
9. The final stage is painting or gluing the ceiling.

Plastering

If, parallel to the damaged seams, there is a significant slope in the ceiling in any direction, it should be leveled. The best way is plaster compositions, their installation is preceded by the installation of the mesh. The entire working surface is covered with concrete contact soil; it contains hard, large particles to improve adhesion to concrete. To cover the ceiling, a mixture of cement and gypsum is prepared.

The seams on the ceiling are most often sealed simultaneously with the repair of the entire ceiling

Closing the hole

Due to being ignored building codes A defect may appear on the ceiling, one of the most dangerous is a hole. Sealing ceiling joints between slabs is done using one of two methods.

First way:

1. Use a brush with an extended handle to clean the hole from the inside.
2. It is important to remove loose dust, creating a strong adhesion; to do this, thoroughly spray the entire surface with a spray bottle containing soil.
3. Polyurethane foam is blown inside.
4. After complete hardening, cut off areas with excess material using a sharp knife.
5. Cut out a cone-shaped recess with a height of 4-5 cm.
6. The recess is sealed with NTs grade cement and the material is allowed to harden.
7. The surface is leveled with a layer of putty, and a sickle mesh is placed inside.
8. Subsequent operations are no different from sealing the seams on the ceiling between the slabs.

There is a second method for sealing the joints of floor slabs with holes:

1. An improvised frame is created that fits flush into the hole, and it is placed inside the defective area. Any metal wire can be used.
2. The frame is fixed using sealant; it is better to use one intended for repairing plumbing fixtures and walls in wet rooms. If the purpose of the material is damp walls, use for ceiling repair often leads to better results.
3. After hardening, a lattice is formed in the cavity; it will ensure strong fixation of the solution.
4. Prepare a mixture of NC solution; you can use the classic composition, but it is better to add an additive that will improve the setting of the solution. To prevent the cement from falling out, it is supported from below with a piece of plywood.
5. The plywood is secured from below with a support; it will hold the cement in the required position until it dries.
6. The wooden board is removed only after hardening, then finishing is carried out.

The most important thing is to strictly follow the sequence and be careful

Joint between wall and ceiling: sealing methods

Characteristically, there are not only noticeable defects in the joints between the floor slabs, but also in the walls. It will not be possible to properly finish the surface without eliminating cracks.

• construction foam;
• gypsum mortar;
• synthetic putty;
• putty for exterior use.

The simplest and efficient material- foam that expands during the hardening process and fills voids.

If the joints are quite large, it is worth taking care of further protection against cracking. Reinforcing mesh and alternative materials - cotton, linen fabrics that are soaked in an adhesive solution will help prevent the appearance of cracks. The fabrics are laid over the hole. At the final stage, a layer of plaster is laid.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final leveling of the surface

Regardless of the method used to remove defects, it is important to create a high-quality finishing coating. Abrasive mixtures are used to level the surface.

Application process latex putty

To create a perfectly smooth and even surface, it is recommended to use non-woven fabric. It is glued to the ceiling up to the finishing layer of putty. The material helps eliminate small irregularities.

It is important to cover the ceiling with primer after the final leveling layer; this will help prevent the destruction of the coating and increase the durability of the putty layer. Now you can paint the ceiling, paste it over or whitewash it.

Constructing a building and creating an attractive appearance is a complex task that requires taking into account many factors:

• creating a reliable foundation will prevent cracks from appearing at corners and between floor slabs. Before doing so, it is important to carefully preparatory work: soil research, studying the level of soil freezing, creating the correct markings and compaction of the surface. provides a service life of up to 150 years only if the installation technology is followed;
• To maintain heat in the room, it is worth eliminating the leakage of thermal energy through the floor. One of the best ways - ;
• in multi-storey buildings, it is better to first study the plan of the floor slabs, this will help to identify potential vulnerabilities of the structure and eliminate them at the repair stage;
• When building housing, it is better to use composite concrete, it has high technical characteristics and absolutely safe for health;

• working with concrete in the cold season with a standard cement composition is unacceptable by the manufacturer, but not all companies are ready to stop construction for the winter. So is it possible to pour concrete in winter? – Yes, but you will need to add special mixtures to the composition or electrically heat the concrete;
• if you plan to build a house from aerated concrete, be sure to reinforce it every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement is placed inside the block recesses that are created by the wall chaser for aerated concrete;

Holes various dimensions can be sealed if the technology is followed correctly. It is recommended to choose one of existing methods eliminate ceiling defects, they are easy to use and durable.

Does not require special skills. Laminate board - inexpensive and reliable coverage, which fits into almost any interior. The only thing that needs to be done when installing laminate flooring is to seal the joints. Since the basis of the laminate is fiberboard, when moisture gets under the panel it swells and becomes deformed. Required condition when installing laminate boards, this is sealing the joints. In this case, it is important how to close the laminate joints.

Sealant for processing

A sealant is a special gel that is used to seal seams, gaps and joints. In this case, there is no gluing of the joints, which is a big plus when you need to replace the panel.

It is best to choose a sealant that contains silicone. This silicone-based product has very good performance properties:

• reliability;
• long service life;
• the ability to use a sealant at any temperature.

In addition to silicone, the sealed gel includes the following components:

• additives: quartz flour, chalk;
• antifungal substances;
• dyes;
• and substances that reduce the viscosity of the gel.

If the question of how to seal the joints of laminate flooring has been resolved, now you need to prepare the tools and materials for processing them.

Tools and materials

Before using the sealant, you must read the instructions for use. If the sealant is used in residential premises, carefully study its composition for the presence of harmful chemical components.

1. Silicone based sealant.
2. Rubber hammer.
3. Ruler, pencil.
4. Jigsaw.
5. Latch.
6. Spacer wedges.

Before you begin laying laminate flooring, you must carefully prepare the floor on which the laminate panels will be laid. The smoother the base, the less time it will take to process the joints.

Features of laying laminate panels

1. The base for installing laminate flooring must be dry, clean and level. Surface differences should not exceed 3-5 mm per meter. Otherwise, the interlocking joints of the panels will quickly become loose and become unusable, which will require additional time and material costs for dismantling and installing the laminate.
2. If the differences in the base are more than 5 mm per meter, it is advisable to make a new screed and only then lay the laminate panels. A smooth surface of the base will allow you to correctly lay the underlay under the laminate in order to protect the floor covering from moisture.
3. The first row of panels must be laid with a deformation gap of 8 mm. This gap should be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. This is done so that when the temperature environment in the apartment (room) changes, the laminate “breathes” and moisture does not accumulate under it.
4. When assembling the panels, it is necessary to coat the joints with a sealant. Excess gel must be carefully removed with a sponge or wet cloth. All other panels are mounted in the same way. After finishing laying the laminate, everything locking connections will be sealed.
5. The gaps that remain in doorway, can be decorated with elements such as baseboards or thresholds. How to coat the joints between the laminate and the baseboard? You can use the same silicone-based sealing gel.
6. If the laminate board is joined:

• with linoleum - cover the seams with a plastic threshold;
• with tiles - close the seams with an aluminum threshold;
• With stone surface– it is advisable to cover the joints with cork plates.

1. Silicone-based sealant does not bond laminate flooring. The gel prevents excess moisture from penetrating under the floor covering, so, if necessary, you can easily replace several panels.
2. If expensive high-quality laminate is used for the flooring, then there is no need to use sealant. The joints of this laminate are already treated with a water-repellent agent.
3. If a heated floor system is installed in the living room, then adhesive laminate cannot be used. Since this covering is not removable, and if the floor heating system breaks down, you will have to remove the entire laminate. This means that it will take time to lay a new floor covering and there will be material costs for the purchase of new laminate panels.
4. Laminate flooring must be laid along doors, windows or verandas, that is, along a natural light source. Otherwise, the falling shadow will emphasize the joints of the panels, which will make the room less aesthetically pleasing. If there are several windows in the room, then installation should begin from the large window diagonally. This method is more expensive, but the most effective.

Video

This video shows how to install a plinth with different types fastenings:

This video is about installing a flexible profile: