When to plant trees in the fall and how to do it correctly? When is it better to plant fruit tree seedlings in spring or autumn? How to plant a tree in the fall.

The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengerot in an article with the expressive title “Should I plant trees in autumn or spring?” put forward interesting arguments on this topic.

Wise thought

“Autumn planting works out better the earlier it can be done.”

A complicated matter

“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preference is for spring planting rather than autumn planting.

Although autumn planting cannot be considered impossible... A tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when the shoots that have grown during the summer have become completely strong and mature, i.e., from September to October (the further south you go, the earlier you can start transplantation; for example, in the Saratov province you can start already at the end of August); in the spring, now, when the ground has thawed, until the buds begin to bloom.”

The information is correct, but it is still unclear: autumn or spring? However, further the author talks about his experience “in the Baltic region and other northern provinces.”

Autumn wins

“Having been involved in gardening and planting trees for more than 25 years... I adhered to the following: I always gave preference to autumn planting, with the exception of those cases when I had to plant on extremely clayey, wet soil. If planting is done in early autumn, as already mentioned above, at a time when the tree, although it has stopped growing, the sap flow in it has not yet completely stopped, then before the onset of frost it will have time to produce young roots, as well as some root cuts swim. Such a tree will overwinter well and begin to grow quickly next spring. The later the transplant is carried out, the less time the tree has time to take root and in the spring it is slower to take root, and sometimes in winter some of it dies from severe frosts. Leaves of trees planted in autumn must be trimmed so that they do not evaporate reserve moisture, since the perception nutrients it stops until new roots appear.

True, in very cold areas and on damp, cold soils, they should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, subsoil water can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on wet soil spring planting has its downsides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then summer heat the soil soon dries out, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly received.”

Confirmation from the Volga region

“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely die in the first winter.

I did not believe this, and when, finally, in the fall of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens... To finally resolve the controversial issue, I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I covered them with dry weeds from the bottom to the very tops in a thin layer, and handed them over to the power of winter. In one garden, all the trees died, in the other, 2 apple trees and 2 pear trees died.”

And in the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. The following picture appeared to his gaze: “About 50% of the apple trees and the same number of pears looked healthy, about 10% of the apple trees and 50% of the pears died, and the remaining apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable.”

Based on materials from the magazine “Progressive Gardening and Horticulture”

* the article refers only to seedlings with an open root system

Personal experience

Prepare your sleigh in summer

Frost on bare ground is the nightmare of many summer residents. Especially for those who can only visit their garden on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!

Since during my time gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting the frost without snow with useless moaning and throwing, then in Lately I made it a rule to prepare for a possible cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.

Firstly, it is better to prepare plants that will have to be covered for the winter early, even if the aesthetics of the garden suffer from this. For example, bend it down and lightly sprinkle it with earth large leaf hydrangeas, lay climbing and shrub roses until their branches became brittle from the cold. It wouldn't hurt to throw on non-woven material: in the absence of snow, it, of course, will not protect you from frost, but it will help “soften the blow” when the temperature drops sharply.

Secondly, be sure to mulch the tree trunks of heat-loving trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of “sour” things, for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, pine litter, and sawdust. For others - compost, grass clippings, fallen leaves. This can be done in September or October, without rushing and without making a rush on the eve of severe frosts. In addition, I mulch the soil in flower beds with perennials. In case of sudden cold weather wet ground literally “explodes”, which often leads to damage to the root system. A thick layer mulch will protect you from this disaster.

Thirdly, it is worth preparing a “strategic reserve” of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak ones are best, but in the absence of such, you can use any that you have on hand. I usually take half an hour, rake leaves from under nearby trees and collect them in large garbage bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as insulation instead of snow.

S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region.

Planting fruit crops requires a responsible approach. Every nuance is important: the timing of planting fruit trees, the choice of site and seedling, and the preparation of the planting hole. Let's talk about the secrets of arranging an orchard.

Article outline

When to plant fruit crops - in spring or before winter?

Let us immediately outline the factors that influence the timing of planting fruit crops:

1. Type of fruit tree.
2. Weather phenomena of the current season.
3. Cultivation region.
4. Soil type.

All fruit trees are conventionally divided into stone fruit and pome fruit types. It is believed that the optimal time for planting pome crops in the regions of the middle zone is autumn, and stone fruits - spring.

Stone fruit crops, which include cherries, plums, apricots, cherry plums, and sweet cherries, are more thermophilic and do not always have time to take root in the fall before the onset of winter. winter cold. The best time to plant them is from mid-March to mid-April. More precise dates depend on weather factors and the region of crop cultivation.

Pome crops, the most common of which are pear trees and apple trees, are less demanding to care for and more resistant to cold climates.

They are usually planted in the fall, about a month to a month and a half before the first frost.

You can postpone the planting of pome trees to spring in case of early frosts and prolonged autumn precipitation. Pome trees are planted only in spring northern regions and in the zone of risky agriculture, where in the conditions of short summer and autumn no species of plants have time to take root.

But in the southern regions, any fruit trees are planted in the fall, since the first cold weather there does not arrive until November, and sometimes in mid-December. In addition, in the southern regions, dry weather sets in too early in the spring, which is not conducive to the rooting of seedlings.

Sometimes the planting of seed crops is postponed from autumn to spring, if garden plot heavy soil predominates. But planting holes are still prepared in the fall in order to adjust the structure of the natural soil.

Let's summarize when is the best time to plant fruit trees:

Selecting a location and layout of fruit trees

The main mistake gardeners make is increased attention to the type of soil and a completely ill-conceived planting scheme. The nuance is that the type of soil is not so important for fruit trees, since the structure and composition of the soil can be adjusted when forming planting holes. Illumination of plantings and good natural ventilation are important.

Trees planted close together lack nutrition and moisture, root system is constantly in a depressed state.

If the crown of an adult tree shades neighboring plantings, the risk of infection with fungal and viral infections increases on the site, the process of pollination flowering plants becomes difficult, and this will affect the number and size of the fruits.

Compliance with the planting scheme will ensure comfortable care in the future: pruning and spraying of trees. Before forming planting holes, the planting density is calculated and a plan for the future garden is first drawn up on paper. If single plants are planted, it is important to correctly determine their distance from the house, outbuildings, fences, and garden paths.

Distance of seedlings from each other and from economic objects when planting:

• seedlings of vigorous crops - at least 5 m - 6 m;
• medium-sized species – 4 m;
• low-growing (columnar and dwarf) trees – 2 m – 3 m.

Note! For rational use areas between fruit trees planted garden strawberries or currants.

The area for fruit crops should be illuminated by the sun for at least half a day. In the first years, young plantings must be protected from draft winds; the availability of water to the root system is important. Fruit crops consume a lot of moisture, so high-lying areas are allocated for them groundwater.

Selection of seedlings

The best thing fruit seedlings purchase from nurseries where trees are grown according to all the rules of agricultural technology. In the nursery you can get advice on planting and caring for a certain variety, and the likelihood of seedlings becoming infected with pests and infections will be almost zero.

Sapling with bare roots

To prevent your purchase from becoming useless, choose zoned varieties that are common in your region.

A healthy seedling with an open root system should have many branches, growths and Brown color On the cut there are signs of diseases.

The roots must be at least 25 cm - 30 cm in length, the trunk must not have visible damage.

Roots planting material Store wrapped in a damp cloth. If the tree does dry out, immerse the roots for a day or two in settled water, to which you can add growth stimulator Kornevin or special resuscitators for weakened plants.

Saplings with bare roots are cheaper than in containers and may take root less well, but you can visually assess the condition of the rhizome and the tree as a whole when purchasing.

Seedlings in a container

Planting material in containers has almost one hundred percent survival rate, but it is still necessary to check its viability.

Turn the pot over; strong roots will grow even through the hole for excess moisture.

Carefully lift the seedling by the trunk at the root part. If the tree can be easily removed from the pot, it means that it was transplanted a long time ago and has had time to develop its roots well. For recently transplanted plants in nurseries, the rhizome is usually trimmed to fit the size of the container.

Preparation of planting holes

The optimal option is when pits for spring planting of fruit species are prepared in the fall.

In cases where autumn gardening is planned, the pits are formed in the spring.

If the deadlines have been missed, planting holes can be formed in the current season, but no later than two weeks before planting the fruit plants. This time is necessary for the soil to settle and voids to form, which can lead to rotting of the root system.

Stone fruit and pome trees, as well as berry bushes differ in size at two and three years of age. Therefore, for seedlings with open rhizome dig a hole 60 cm deep and 90 cm - 100 cm in diameter. For seedlings of stone fruit crops and shrubs, the dimensions are slightly smaller: 40 cm - 50 cm deep and 75 cm - 80 cm in diameter. For seedlings with a closed root system, the holes are increased in depth and 20 cm in diameter.

Note! Fruiting occurs faster in seedlings planted in wide but shallow holes.

Wide holes with a diameter of 1 m are made in areas with heavy soil, but the depth is left no more than 60 cm - 80 cm. On dense soils, the main part of the nutrients is concentrated in the upper, fertile layer of soil. Excessive deepening of the root system will lead to nutritional deficiency and poor adaptation of the tree.

To make it easier to dig a hole, a support is driven into its center, a twine is tied, and a metal peg is attached to one end of it.

The peg will serve as a marker, which is used to draw an even circle on the ground with the required diameter, after which they begin to dig.

The soil from the pit is laid out in two piles: on one side the dark soil of the fertile layer, on the other side the lighter soil of the lower layer.

10 – 15 days before disembarkation fruit trees acidic soil is limed dolomite flour or chalk, fertilizers are applied directly to the planting.

How to plant fruit trees correctly

Under fruit plants either mineral-organic mixtures or chemical additives without adding organic matter are introduced.

If organic matter is used, nitrogen agrochemicals are no longer needed. In a hole with a meter diameter and a depth of 60 cm under the seed trees they bring the following fertilizers to choose from:

• 4 ten-liter buckets / 400 g (or 200 g double) / 200 g;
• 3 buckets of humus/bone meal 1 kg/simple superphosphate 200 g/potassium sulfate 200 g.

Potassium sulfate in the fall can be replaced with potassium chloride, and lovers of environmentally friendly farming can use ash 1 l/1 planting hole instead of potassium additives.

Note! In the pits underneath stone fruits, 40 cm deep and up to 80 cm in diameter, the amount of fertilizer applied is halved!

Planting bare-rooted seedlings

Half of the fertilizer is mixed with part of the top layer of soil and the nutrient mixture is placed in a cone at the bottom of the depression.

A seedling is placed on the resulting hill, the roots are evenly distributed around the circumference and the second half of the fertilizer is poured directly onto them.

In the process of adding fertilizers, the tree is slightly shaken to prevent air voids between the roots.

Next, water is supplied: 2 – 4 buckets/1 hole (depending on the age of the seedling). The hole is filled to the level of the root collar, using the remainder of the top layer of soil. The bottom layer is useful for forming a root hole around the perimeter of the trunk circle.

The tree is watered again, supplying water to the root hole, and then the trunk circle is mulched with leaves, straw, and mown grass. On alkaline soils, wood chips and sawdust can be used as mulch.

Note! Deepening the root collar of a seedling delays the first fruiting for several seasons. When planting, it is better to leave the neck slightly open. This deficiency can be easily corrected by simply adding fertile soil.

Planting seedlings with closed rhizomes

Planting plants with a clod of soil is much easier. Part of the fertilizer, as in the previous version, is mixed with half of the fertile soil and evenly distributed over the bottom of the pit.

Then a tree with a lump of earth is placed in the hole, the second half of the fertilizer is added along the edges, watered abundantly and the hole is sealed at the level of the top layer of the earthen lump with the remaining fertile soil, water and mulch the tree trunk circle again.

Caring for fruit trees immediately after planting

In the first two seasons fruit species need abundant and regular watering. Even those trees that were planted before winter are well watered; the water supply is stopped only with the onset of cold weather.

During the first flowering of a fruit tree, it is necessary to remove all inflorescences, since the seedling will begin to devote energy to fruiting and will stop the development of roots and crowns.

In the first three years, formative pruning and regular treatment against pests and diseases will be required.

In the winter, the tree trunk circle must be mulched so that the young plant roots do not freeze and the trunk is protected special materials against damage by rodents.

It takes a lot of effort to grow a fruitful garden. Careful care fruit crops is important at every stage of their development, and caring for the garden begins with determining the optimal time for planting, purchasing healthy seedlings and proper preparation landing pit.

Autumn - optimal time planting seedlings with an open root system or bare root. The time of planting without reference to climatic zones is from the moment the leaves fall naturally until the period of soil freezing. Having purchased seedlings with foliage, immediately tear off all the leaves to reduce moisture loss through them and drying out of the seedling itself.

What fruit trees are planted in spring?

Trees with open system non-frost-resistant roots (this includes some varieties of apple and pear trees, heat-loving apricots, peaches and some varieties of plums and cherries) are better. It is better to prepare holes for spring planting in the fall. Then you will begin planting seedlings immediately after the ground has thawed, while the soil is saturated with moisture. The period of spring planting of trees ends with the appearance of the first leaves.

The basic rule of planting is that the earlier you plant, the easier the seedling adapts and the more likely it is that it will take root well.

In conditions high humidity plant the tree on mounds prepared ahead of time in the fall. They are definitely planted in the spring.

Timing for planting seedlings with a closed system and in containers

The timing of planting seedlings with an earthen ball (closed root system) is more extended. In the spring, the planting period is extended until the onset of hot days if planting is carried out in cloudy weather, and the crowns of seedlings with leaves are shaded by throwing white gauze.

Seedlings with a closed root system need abundant watering for a month after planting.

In autumn, seedlings with a clod of earth can be planted as soon as the heat subsides, without waiting for the leaves to fall. The seedlings will require watering and shading. Another option is to cut off the leaves on the tree. Planting dates in the fall last until the onset of frost.
Time frame for planting seedlings in containers – from early spring until late autumn. On hot, dry days it is better to refrain from planting. The crowns of planted fruit trees are shaded, and the seedlings are regularly watered.

When to plant trees - in spring or autumn? There is hardly an absolutely unambiguous answer to this question: weather conditions vary from year to year, and the soils on each site are different, and any seedling, like any living organism, is distinguished by its individuality. Each season has a whole set of pros and cons that you need to consider when making a planting decision.







The natural truth is this: wood and earth are two parts of the indivisible. Therefore, you can reunite them - that is, plant a tree in the ground - at any time of the year (except for the period when the ground is not able to accept the root - when it is frozen). Another thing is the sum of other accompanying conditions. This is what determines how the seedling will take root and how it will develop further. Therefore, each plant has its own favorable time for planting and replanting. And since it’s autumn, let’s remember which trees should be planted right now (and why so).

As soon as they are completed autumn chores In the garden beds, in the hands of summer residents going to their plots, seedlings with carefully covered roots appear. A short but very important time for planting trees begins, and who is convinced of the correctness autumn choice, is not at all wrong.

• It's more profitable

It is much more profitable to purchase seedlings in the fall: both nurseries and private gardeners begin selling newly dug planting material - here big choice, affordable price and the opportunity to evaluate the quality of the purchase. Plants at this time are often sold with both the last leaves and fresh roots (which may indicate the health of the seedling). In addition, conscientious gardeners often demonstrate the fruits characteristic of this particular variety, which is very important for the buyer.

• It is easier

Autumn planting won't cause much trouble - you can limit yourself to just watering, and nature will do the rest. Autumn weather and rains will provide the seedling with the necessary soil moisture and comfort. The fact is that, despite the dormant period, the roots of the tree continue to grow until the soil cools to a temperature of +4°C. Plants planted in time before the onset of stable frosts will already have time to grow thin absorbent roots and in the new season they will begin to grow as much as two or even three weeks earlier than those seedlings that were planted in the spring.

• It saves time

Clean " human factor“- autumn planting of trees will free up the summer resident’s energy and time for other gardening chores, which in the spring will be “over his head.”



Autumn planting is especially favorable in the southern regions, where winters are “warm”. The ground does not freeze to the depth of the roots, and young trees are not at risk of hypothermia and freezing.

• Strong frosts capable of destroying immature trees.
• Winter is rich in stressful situations for seedlings: strong winds, ice, snowfalls and other weather troubles can break young plants.
• In late autumn and winter, seedlings are often damaged rodents.
• Well, during the absence of the owners, the seedlings at the dacha simply may be stolen other fruit tree lovers.

Experts strongly advise avoiding fall plantingnon-winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees and shrubs:

• Pears
• Apple trees
• Plums
• Apricot
• Peach
• Cherries
• Almond
• Cherries

Well, of course, it would be a mistake to plant in the fall in the northern regions those seedlings that were brought from more southern regions climatic zones- they simply will not survive frosts unusual for their homeland.



IN next video — practical advice what plants are best to plant in autumn

What trees and shrubs take root well when planted in autumn?

• Winter-hardy varieties of apple and pear trees
• Chokeberry
• Currant
• Raspberries
• Gooseberry
• Honeysuckle
• Birch
• Chestnut
• Coniferous trees

The optimal period for autumn tree planting is considered to be the end of September and all of October, and perhaps even the beginning or middle of November if the weather is warm.

• IN middle lane Russia autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October.

• IN northern regions- from early September to early October
• IN southern regions- from October to mid-November

The timing is dictated by the weather. Each year the boundaries may “float” and differ significantly from the dates of previous years. There were years when it was possible to plant trees even until the last days of November.

• Important condition-guideline

The most best time for planting (transplanting) any seedlings - this is their periodbiological rest. Its onset is evidenced byend of leaf fall.

It also happens that it was not possible to plant a seedling in the fall. Maybe, at the very end of the season, you successfully found a sale of seedlings at bargain prices, or you managed to get a wonderful desired variety that cannot be planted in the fall... what should you do in this case?





All you need to do is take care of preserving your seedling until spring, so that you can plant it on the site. Based on practice, the three most common methods are used for this:

• storage in a cold, damp basement (cellar)
• snowmaking
• digging in the ground

In the next video, Evgeny Fedotov and Roman Vrublevsky will tell and showhow to bury seedlingsfor storage from autumn until spring planting.

• Basement storage

If you generously moisten the roots of the seedlings and lower them into a container filled with peat, sawdust or sand, then at temperatures from 0°C to +10°C and a relative air humidity of 87-90%, they will be perfectly preserved in the basement until planting. These seedlings in the basement only need to be watered once every 7-10 days.

• Snowmaking

This is storing seedlings outside: properly packaged, they overwinter under a sufficient layer of snow, using its magical power to prevent the temperature around the living stems from dropping below the “life level”

In conditions Middle zone, Ural And Siberiafor autumn planting it is best to choose zoned ones, and if necessary - winter-hardy varieties, which are acclimatized and quickly take root. Thus, fruit trees of Siberian and Ural selection - pear and apple trees, rowan, mulberry and cherry plum - tolerate planting in autumn quite well.



For gardeners southern regionsIt is better to plant trees in autumn. In these parts, autumn is long, warm, with periodic rains, which is “just right” for seedlings. But spring here can too quickly give way to hot summer.



Saplings thatdug up ahead of schedule(before natural leaf fall) most often have immature shoots and almost always freeze slightly.



If you bought a “beautiful tree” with leaves for planting, you risk getting not only immature, but alsooverdried seedling, because the main loss of moisture occurs through the leaf plate.







The main thing is to remember: Nature will lend its hands to any of its offspring, and we must try to “hand over” healthy, mature seedlings with a good root system to her in the nursery at the most favorable time. Then the young tree will not have to sit on “sick leave” for years and receive “disability” by the time it reaches adulthood. If everything is done correctly, no matter what season we plant - autumn, summer or spring - the tree will respond with cheerful growth, excellent development and a rich harvest.

Many experienced gardeners Fruit trees are planted with equal success in both autumn and spring. It is believed, however, that autumn planting of fruit trees is suitable mainly for the southern regions, for Siberia and the Urals (there freshly planted plants from severe winter frosts protected by solid snow cover). For northern and central regions Spring planting is more suitable - as a last resort, the trunks of the seedlings are strengthened, hilling them up for the upcoming wintering.

When to plant?

The main rule of planting is that it should be carried out during the dormant period. In spring, this is the time from soil thawing to the beginning of active sap flow, in autumn, after leaf fall, during preparation for winter sleep. The second dormant period lasts longer, and this is already a point in favor of autumn planting.

In spring, this is the time from soil thawing to the beginning of active sap flow; in autumn, after leaf fall, during preparation for winter sleep.

But usually the choice of gardeners is influenced by the fact that in the fall the range of seedlings offered by nurseries is much richer than in the spring, and the prices are usually more attractive. But buying seedlings in the fall and leaving them in storage until spring doesn’t make much sense - the climate in last years unpredictable, and abnormally warm, and abnormally Cold winter could be fatal for such a winter.

toliam1 FORUMHOUSE Consultant

Both my clients and I plant everything only in the fall. Winter is far away, the seedlings have time to get comfortable in the soil, warm winter Root growth is also possible. And in the spring we immediately “go into battle”. When planting in spring, one season is lost.

What to plant?

Planting trees in autumn has its own characteristics. For it, it is better to choose 1-2 year old seedlings with mature shoots - this increases the likelihood that the plant will survive the winter better. The shoots of the seedling along the entire length should be lignified, with fully formed buds.

Three-year-old seedlings are sold less frequently, but this is for the better: at this age, the apple tree already has fairly decent roots, and when the plant is dug up for sale, they have to be cut down heavily. That is, serious wounds are inflicted on the tree, and it takes root much worse.

LuLyu User FORUMHOUSE

The older the apple tree, the longer and thicker its roots, the more wounds are caused during digging.

Zoned and winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees, for example, Siberian and Ural selection, are suitable for autumn planting.

How well the plant takes root depends on the condition of the root system. Unfortunately, many have encountered the fact that plum or cherry seedlings froze even during transportation to the dacha, because their absorbent roots do not tolerate temperatures well, already +3 - +4 degrees. Unlike seedlings with ACS, seedlings with a closed root system practically do not suffer during planting (in essence, this is the same transshipment, and often the plants hardly even notice it). But seedlings with ZKS must be of high quality: the root system is tightly held in a coma of earth, but does not entwine it around, the seedling is not removed from the container easily and freely. Unfortunately, it also happens that the seller does not grow the seedling in a container, but places it there before planting.

Tatuniki User FORUMHOUSE

When buying a seedling with ZKS, you should check whether it grew in a pot or whether it was pushed there before selling.

If you are not sure of the quality of such a seedling, it is better to buy a good seedling with OKS.

The optimal time for autumn planting of a fruit tree is two, or better yet, three weeks before frost. Depending on the region, this could be either the end of September or the end of October. During the “dormant period,” the above-ground part of the tree stops growing, but the roots grow as long as the soil temperature is higher than +4 degrees. It turns out that if you guess the planting date, then before the onset of frost, the new trees in your garden will have time to grow absorbent roots. This means that in the spring they will begin to grow earlier than those planted in the spring, and they will meet the traditional spring vagaries of the weather already stronger.

If the roots of the seedling are dry, you will need to keep them in water for a day before planting.

How to plant?

User FORUMHOUSE Tamara Nikolaev plants fruit trees according to all the rules of horticultural science: with an assistant, in well-prepared holes measuring 1.5x1.3. On average, the sizes of planting holes are usually as follows:

For trees on vigorous rootstocks:
120x80 cm (apple and pear trees),
100x60 cm (plums and cherries).
For semi-dwarf and dwarf:
80x50 cm.
The pit for a seedling with a ZKS should be twice as large as the container.

To protect against spring waterlogging, Tamara pours 30-40 cm of expanded clay at the bottom of the pit and prepares the soil in advance:

-3 buckets of rotted manure;
- 1 bucket of “native” soil;
- 2 buckets of good plant soil.

Any trees can be planted in such soil, and in the first year there will be no need to feed them. When preparing the soil, we must forget the phrase “nitrogen fertilizers” - but we remember that they include chicken and other bird droppings. In general, fertilizers must be applied very carefully when planting, as they can burn the roots. You can separate them from the roots with a layer of neutral soil, or you can not add them at all - wait until the trees “come to life” and add them to the punctures. Sometimes it is recommended to add peat - FORUMHOUSE experts say that it acidifies the soil, so before adding it, it will definitely need to be deoxidized.

Tamara does the planting this way: she pours expanded clay onto the bottom of the hole and levels it out; Add the prepared soil to a third of the hole on top, compact it, pour it with water, pour the dry soil into a mound, and carefully spread the roots over it.

The root collar of the planted seedling should be located exactly at soil level, not deeper or higher. .

Place a board on top of the hole and check the level of the root collar - it should be located EXACTLY at the level of the board. That is, the root collar of a planted seedling should be located exactly at soil level, not deeper and not higher. .

LuLyu User FORUMHOUSE

Look at the place where the trunk ends and the roots begin. This transition point between the trunk and the roots should be at ground level. Strictly.

If the root collar is located high, the roots will be exposed, and over time the apple tree will dry out. If you bury it, it will constantly get wet and rot. Such a tree will turn green and even bloom, but you will not get fruit from it.

After checking the level of the root collar, an assistant fills the hole with prepared soil and compacts it, then, regardless of the weather (let the soil settle quickly), the tree is well watered, tree trunk circles are formed and mulched with peat.

Let's go back to the root collar again. Beginning gardeners often confuse it with grafting. There is a gardening trick: take a damp cloth and rub it on the seedling where the root meets the trunk. You will see a place where the brown root meets the greenish trunk. This is exactly the place we are talking about.

When planting seedlings, it is important how the groundwater level is located on your site and what the composition of the soil is. If the groundwater level is close, the roots of your young trees may end up in the water. In principle, this can be avoided.