DIY siding fasteners. Siding, instructions for self-installation and necessary tools

Siding is simple, anyone can install it. Such and similar statements can be found on the Internet almost every step of the way. But as practice shows, questions remain. In addition, there will definitely be a couple of little things that will turn out to be important, but for which there is no place in the piggy bank general advice. The purpose of today’s material is to cover the question as fully as possible: how to properly attach siding? So let's get started.

There would be a wall, but we would find something to strengthen it

What do you want to see when looking at own house? Certainly smooth walls, elegant design, and let’s also remember such an important element recent years How about energy saving? Fortunately, all this is real.

Usage vinyl siding, like in a fairy tale, solves all problems. It is moisture resistant, it can withstand temperature changes, it is easy to care for, visually attractive and durable. You can also lay insulation between it and the wall, which solves the issue of saving heat.

In terms of price, vinyl siding is a finishing material with a moderate cost, which makes it quite affordable for the majority of the population of our country. In terms of price-quality ratio, siding certainly outperforms other finishing materials.

Correct and qualified installation will save you from the problems of processing and painting walls for a long time. Professional installation this is good, but how sometimes you want to do everything yourself, so that you can then proudly say: “look, I did it myself!” It is for such self-taught craftsmen who want to do everything with their own hands that our instructions are offered.

When purchasing siding panels

Just as a theater begins with a hanger, so construction begins with a selection quality material. High-quality siding is the key to the future beauty of your structure.

Note! The main indicator of siding is the functionality of the device called the “lock”. With its help, the panels are combined and fixed, and that golden mean is important here. The “lock” should not be tight, but it should not be loose either, and when the panels are inserted into each other, a characteristic click should be heard.

Tool selection

What is important in any construction work? This is, of course, a correct and precise fit of parts.

Therefore, the second important preparatory stage is the selection of tools.

• a hacksaw with fine teeth for metal (an angle grinder with a cutting wheel for metal is also suitable);
• screwdriver, and let’s not forget about the curved screwdrivers,
• metal scissors,
• hammer, screws for metal or wood;
• tape measure, folding meter, square
• building level;
• ladder, stepladder or any strong ladder of sufficient height (ideally scaffolding is used);
• hammer drill, if work is carried out on brick, stone, etc. walls.

We can start

What will we attach the siding to? This is not an idle question.

And now we will try to cover as much as possible all possible mounting options:

1. If the wall is wooden and absolutely smooth, then you can attach it directly to the wall.
2. If the building is wooden, but old (there are visually detectable irregularities), then sheathing is indispensable. In this case, sheathing with wooden slats is suitable. The same option applies to adobe houses. And finally, the option of insulation without lathing is very problematic.
3. For brick houses, panel houses A metal profile lathing, with a pitch of no more than 40 centimeters, is suitable, which is erected using special fasteners called “U-shaped”.

I think the question “what is the siding attached to” can be closed. For a more complete picture of metal profile lathing, look at the following photo

Note! A lot depends on the sheathing. In its design, precision and accuracy are not just important, but very important. Therefore, it is advisable to build this structural element by professionals, or with their help.

One more thing. Before installing the siding, you can and should install insulation.

The choice of this product does not cause any problems, the price range - plus or minus the ruble - is not decisive. The photo shows an insulated facade and general scheme insulation. In general, look.

Related articles:

Finally

Now let's move on to solving the issue of laying His Majesty's siding. But before that, we will still give you one piece of advice.

Note! Although siding installation work can be carried out at any time of the year, the use of metal shears is not recommended at temperatures below -10°C. This can be explained very simply - in the cold the siding becomes brittle, and under the influence of scissors it will simply crack.

Well, let’s fix the siding!

The first element in a siding structure is drainage. His role is difficult to overestimate. Removing excess moisture is important.

In this case, the choice of drainage will be yours. This could be a siding drain strip, or a galvanized corner, or a metal-plastic corner. Choosing a color is also not a big problem now.

And one more piece of advice.

Note! The drainage system is positioned perfectly horizontally using a level. No distortions are allowed. By setting the drainage system, you immediately eliminate all issues related to fixing the siding at level. And another drainage system is installed around the entire perimeter of the house.

It's more clear this way.

How to attach siding. Now let's get started. We attach the starting rail to the drainage drain. You remember that the ideal horizontal level has already been established by drainage.

You can, of course, set the horizontal level using the staff. But from experience I can say that it is easier to set the horizontal on a hard component than on a soft one. And here's another piece of advice for you.

Note! The material used in the manufacture of siding is subject to thermal expansion and contraction, so “rigid” fastening of the material is not recommended.

And two questions immediately arise: how to attach the siding?, and how to attach the siding correctly? And like this.

The siding is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws, leaving a gap of 1-2 millimeters to control the “slump” (i.e., expanding and contracting) material.

Then comes the standard operations. One panel is inserted into the other until the lock clicks; the panels are fastened with self-tapping screws into the grooves. And so on until the wall is completely built up to the roof.

Window and corner trim are also important stage in siding installation. In this case, the window rail and the structures of the external and internal corners will provide invaluable assistance in aligning all structural elements.

Installation of corner structures will give the lines of the house a finished look, and will also protect the house from the flow of water, winds and snow drifts. However, there are a few more installation features to keep in mind.

The corner structures overlap the wall siding by 10 millimeters. A tight fit is undesirable; due, again, to the phenomenon of thermal lability of the material, it is recommended to leave a small gap.

When approaching the roof, a finishing strip is installed at the end of the wall, to which the siding itself is not attached. This rail gives the structure a finished look with edging. And finally, the last element installed when decorating a house is the soffit.

Sometimes they save money on this element and install it from scraps of wall siding, but soffits differ in that they are perforated. Holes in the spotlights allow air to circulate, preventing moisture stagnation and premature deterioration of the product.

How to fix the siding, how to fix the siding correctly is no longer a question. In this material, we tried to cover as fully as possible all the steps in installing siding structures.

In conclusion, we once again present the appearance and places of application of various siding components. And to fully consolidate the material, we inserted video material. Now everything will be clear to you.

One of the most reliable building materials to protect the entire construction site from any external influences is siding. However, no matter what qualities this material has, if the installation of siding is not carried out according to technology, then its protective properties may be reduced to zero. And, despite the fact that this material, by its structure, should protect the structure from precipitation, exposure ultraviolet radiation, noise and other unfavorable phenomena, the slightest violation during installation leads to the penetration of harmful substances into the premises.

In this article we will talk about installing siding with our own hands, we will give detailed instructions for dummies, and will also accompany all photos and video materials.

To cover any building with siding, you need tools and some equipment. First of all, these are screws and nails.

For cutting and fastening you will need a hammer, a level, a tape measure, a plumb line, a square, hammer drill pliers, a hacksaw and a circular saw with fine teeth. If we are talking about installing metal siding, then you also need to purchase metal scissors to trim the panels in the corners. When installing vinyl siding, a sharpened ordinary knife is used for cutting in the transverse direction, and for transverse cutting - circular saw. To protect your eyes, experts recommend wearing safety glasses.

Instructions

Below we will describe the work processes for laying vinyl siding step by step. Following simple tips and recommendations, you can do this work without being a specialist.

The first stage is the correct cutting of the material in order to use it as economically as possible and avoid mistakes when laying out the panels. To do this, make a plan (drawing) that allows you to correctly distribute the material over the entire surface to be laid.

Siding base

Before installation of the panels begins, sheathing is installed on the façade of the building. This is done in all cases, except when they are faced with panels. wooden building. For the manufacture of sheathing, wooden blocks, edged boards, and metal profiles are used.

The effectiveness of installation depends on the correctness and thoroughness with which the sheathing will be filled, that is, how strong the resulting base will be.

So, the installation of basement siding (as, indeed, any other) will be carried out correctly if all the unevenness of the wall or sheathing is smoothed out. The fact is that in the final version, the siding will only highlight all the irregularities and flaws in the preparation. For best quality work, horizontal cladding of panels is carried out on a horizontal sheathing, and vertical installation perform vertically accordingly.

If the cladding is carried out using insulation, then as heat insulating material It is recommended to use roll insulation, and the use of loose materials contributes to surface deformation.

The basic rule that the installation instructions require is the formation of a gap between the panels, since siding is subject to thermal expansion and contraction, and if this condition is not met, the facade may swell and warp. The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails through appropriate rectangular slots.

The nails should not be driven very tightly into the middle of the holes, in which case the fastening of the panels will be strong and reliable. Installation by driving nails directly into the panels will destroy them and is therefore not recommended.

After securing the panels, they should “move” freely in the horizontal direction. Installation is carried out with an overlap of approximately 25-30 millimeters.

To begin with, all panels must be left outside for two to three hours so that they “get used” to the outside temperature. When installing siding in cold winter months, the gap between the panels must be increased at least twice, that is, it should be about 10 millimeters. In this case, the linear expansion coefficient of the siding will be maintained, and the panels will create strong and reliable protection for buildings and structures.

The first step required by the instructions is to install the initial elements. These are starting profiles, internal and external corners, and special J-profiles. After which you can begin the actual installation of siding.

The starting profile is the element that begins the laying of all panels, and to which all other panels are attached. For fastening panels in hard to reach places For example, at the junctions of cornices with walls, along the perimeter of window and door openings, J-profiles are used. With the help of this profile, facades can be given any, even the most bizarre, look, since it allows fastening taking into account all design features structures. Another element used to improve facades is the finishing strip. The facades in the top row are sheathed with it, thanks to which the surface looks smooth and neat.

When attaching panels in a vertical direction on the outer corners of the building, the installation technology involves finishing with the so-called external corners, this allows you to ensure a neat appearance of corner joints.

The same role is played by the internal corner, only it provides carefully disguised joints of the internal corners of buildings.

Siding

The paneling begins from those places where the maximum load is expected to be applied to them. These are doors, gates, window openings etc. This allows all other connections to be isolated from these places. All regular siding panels are attached using a lock joint. That is, the lower lock of the previous panel (upper) must be fastened to the upper lock of the subsequent panel (lower). Vertically, the cladding is overlapped, thus having the ability to adjust the size of the sections, both in height and width.

Basement siding

The work of installing basement siding is not difficult, so you can easily do it yourself. First you need to carry out preparatory work. The final result depends on their quality.

Standard size plinth panel is 500×1200 mm. Their fastening is carried out in the same way as regular siding on the sheathing. Other sizes may also be available, for example, 220x3000 mm. Such dimensions require the installation of exclusively vertical sheathing.

In some cases, decisions are made to cover the entire facade of the house with basement siding. Additionally, the wall can be insulated.

The principle of making the frame is as follows:

1. The sheathing for the plinth is best made from a metal profile. A wooden beam close to the ground can become damp and, as a result, become unusable.
2. Based on climatic conditions, you independently determine the height of the base. If you live in an area where the ground freezes heavily, then the sheathing should be raised from the ground level by 150 mm. If it does not freeze, then you can begin installation directly on it.
3. When making the sheathing, both horizontal and vertical guides should be installed. So, the pitch between vertical ones is 900 mm, and between horizontal ones is 450 mm.

When assembling the sheathing frame, be sure to use a level. Otherwise, the installation of basement siding will not proceed smoothly.

When the sheathing is completed, you can begin installing the basement siding. The work is the following sequence:

• The starting bar is mounted horizontally.
• Internal/corner elements are installed at the corners.
• For fastening, self-tapping screws with a press washer 4–5 cm long are used.
• There should be a gap of up to 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. This play will allow the panel to move without difficulty when expanding.
• At the joints in the corner of the building, thermal gaps of up to 10 mm should also be left. To make them invisible, they need to be covered with a trim corner.
• Siding installation begins on the left side. So, if there is an imitation on it natural stone or brick, the panel must be trimmed on the left side so that a smooth edge is obtained. After this, the cut edge is inserted into the trim corner and placed on the starting profile. Each subsequent panel fits strictly into the groove. When it comes to the opposite corner, the right edge of the element is also trimmed and inserted into the trim corner.

To increase the thermal insulation qualities of the house, siding can be installed with insulation. Let's look at the features of façade insulation using an example: wooden house. By installing siding with insulation, you can achieve 3 goals simultaneously:

1. Updated facade.
2. Thermal insulation.
3. Moisture protection.

But for insulation to be truly effective, the selected material must meet the following criteria:

• Easy to install.
• Preservation of the primary form.
• Resistance to chemical and biological compounds.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Long service life.
• Low thermal conductivity.

The choice of insulation for siding is also influenced by two factors: air humidity in your area and wind rose.

Types of insulation

There is a wide choice thermal insulation materials for the facade of a wooden house. For example, if you select roll insulation, then the layer should be from 3 to 20 mm. Its fastening is carried out using special glue. You can also use mineral or basalt fibers, which are produced in slabs. Mineral wool and polyethylene foam are very popular. Polystyrene foam is also often used. The strength and effectiveness of this material has been tested by time.

Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the facade under the siding. This material retains its original shape and is ideal for any type of siding. Mineral wool is produced in slabs of the following sizes:

• 600×1200 mm.
• 500×1000 mm.

When choosing mineral wool for facade insulation, make sure that its density is more than 80 kg/m3.

Before laying the insulation, it is mandatory to lay a layer of vapor barrier (usually polyethylene or roofing felt). It is necessary to prevent condensation between the insulation and the wall.

A vapor barrier is not needed when laying mineral wool. This insulation allows steam to pass through and does not absorb moisture.

When laying insulation, it is important not to leave a single crack or gap. It should envelop the entire façade of the building. The insulation itself is fixed on the already manufactured sheathing. After this process, you can begin installing siding, the technology of which was written about in this article.

• When installing any siding, it is necessary to avoid excessive tension on the panels when connecting each subsequent row to the previous one. Otherwise, this is fraught with swelling, deformation of a separate panel and damage to the surface of building facades.
• The very last row of panels is laid after the finishing strip is installed.
• Paneling is carried out from the bottom up, and is completed under the eaves of the structure.
• To install siding in places where objects, such as pipes, are located, holes are cut in the panels that are approximately 6 millimeters wider than the object.
• When covering the openings with siding using J-profiles, it is necessary to install the upper and lower edges above and below them, respectively. First, J-profiles are installed, and the edges are installed in them.
• When installing siding above the eaves, first install two or three finishing slats, joined to each other (the lower gap is maintained within 3 millimeters).

Video

We invite you to watch a video about installing siding.

Photo

Below in the photographs you can view the options for finishing houses with siding:

Scheme

The diagrams show some details of siding installation:

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How to properly attach siding

Let's get busy external finishing building. It would seem, what a problem it is to choose siding and cover a house with it: the main thing is that you like it and last a long time. I went to the store, bought materials, necessary tools and started finishing.

In reality, it turns out to be a little more complicated: it’s easy to make mistakes in calculations, when choosing cladding or when installing finishing panels. Before you buy the siding you like, you need to decide what material you will use to cover the house. For finishing, vinyl and acrylic panels, wood, metal and fiber cement plates are used.

Vinyl and acrylic panels are most often used to decorate a building (photo No. 1)

We will tell you what material to choose, how to attach the siding so that it lasts a long time, does not crack or fade. In addition to siding, you need to choose the type of sheathing and insulation. It's worth insulating your house if you live in it all year round, and not just in the summer.

You can do all the work yourself or hire an installation team. If you hire workers, you will control the finishing process and point out errors during installation. If you decide to install the siding yourself, you will need tools.

Tools that may be needed to attach siding (photo No. 2)

Selecting the necessary tools

You will learn how to attach siding to a wall from the outside and what tools you will need for this:

Construction tape. The length of the finishing panels is 3 meters or more (there are panels measuring 3.10 and 3.66 meters). If you install the planks yourself, you will need a tape measure of the appropriate length (for example, 5 meters);

Building level. How to fasten siding so that it does not break or deform? To do this, you need to install the sheathing and secure the panels strictly level. It is advisable to have two levels: for short areas use a tool 70-100 cm long, for long surfaces - from 150 cm. Vertical and horizontal laying accuracy is measured;

Screwdriver. You will have to tighten a lot of screws, so it is better to avoid using a screwdriver. To install the panels on a wooden sheathing, you can use nails, then instead of a screwdriver you will need a hammer;

To attach the siding to the frame, a screwdriver is most often used (photo No. 3)

Drill. If the walls of the house are made of brick, concrete or foam blocks, to install the sheathing you will need to drill holes and install dowels in them;

Hacksaw for metal. Vinyl and acrylic siding Convenient to cut with a hacksaw. For these purposes, a jigsaw with a metal blade is also used;

Cutter knife. To give the planks the desired shape, use a knife-cutter or stationery knife with a thick blade (a thin one may break). A figured cutout can also be made with a jigsaw.

Punch. The trim and window trim often have to be trimmed. Cut off the part on which the mounting hooks are located. To make new holds, professional installers use a punch.

To make new hooks on the bar, installers use a punch (photo No. 4)

Ladder. For installation on the upper floors and on the gable, you will need a ladder. You can use an extension or folding ladder. To avoid damage to the sheathing, do not lean the ladder against vinyl or acrylic siding.

Types of lathing

Let's move on to installation and start with choosing the sheathing. The sheathing is made from:

• wooden beams;
• profiles for fastening drywall;
• metal U-shaped profiles for siding;
• plastic structures designed for the installation of vinyl and acrylic panels.

Before installing the sheathing, inspect the surface. If there are cracks, crevices and other defects on it, they need to be repaired. In case if old cladding crumbles (for example, paint or plaster), it must be removed. If there are strong differences and unevenness on the walls, they should be smoothed out. Otherwise, the geometry of the wall will be disrupted and the siding may crack or deform.

After eliminating the unevenness, you need to treat the walls protective coating. To protect the walls of a wooden house, use an antiseptic and a fire retardant: the first will cope with moisture and rot, the second will prevent fire. Treat concrete walls with a deep penetration primer. It will prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.

Wooden sheathing for siding (photo No. 5)

The sheathing is mounted perpendicular to the siding panels. In other words, if you want to lay the siding horizontally, then the sheathing frame must be made vertical. And vice versa. Step between wooden beams or metal profiles should be 30-50 cm.

Hydro-wind insulation is laid under the sheathing. It protects the building from wind and moisture. Thanks to the presence of the lathing, a ventilation gap is formed between the walls of the house and finishing panels. The gap prevents the appearance of condensation harmful to the walls and cladding. To keep the house warm, you can lay insulation between the sheathing. For this purpose they use mineral wool and expanded polystyrene foam.

Let's take a closer look at each lathing option.

Wooden sheathing. It is made from beams 4 cm or 5 cm thick. When choosing beams, pay attention to the smoothness of the surface and the absence of cracks. Before installation, you need to dry the wood and cover it with solutions that protect the wood from rot and fire.

If you are faced with the question of how to attach siding to wood, then there are 2 options: with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws or with a hammer and nails.

Metal sheathing of walls and plinth (photo No. 6)

Profile for fastening drywall. If the goal is to save money, then profiles for interior work are used to install siding. Most often, sheets of plasterboard are attached to such structures. Manufacturers do not recommend using drywall profiles outdoors. Due to the thin zinc coating, corrosion occurs on them when exposed to moisture. They are intended for indoor use and are not suitable for attaching siding.

Metal U-shaped profile. To attach the siding, a durable metal profile 1 mm thick is also used. This design is more reliable than lathing with a plasterboard profile, but will be more expensive. If you use heavy cladding panels (for example, basement or metal siding), then you need to use street profiles.

Alta-Profile polymer façade fastening system. Polymer profiles are not subject to rust and rotting, they do not need to be further processed or created special conditions storage If you choose vinyl siding to clad your building, you need to take into account that it expands in the hot summer and contracts in winter. Polymer profiles prevent deformation cladding panels due to sudden temperature changes, they have the same coefficient of expansion as siding.

Plastic profiles are not subject to rust and rot (photo No. 7)

How to attach starter siding strip

After installing the sheathing, we move on to attaching the siding. If you do not have finishing experience and do not yet know how to attach siding, start from the back of the building - possible mistakes will be less noticeable. To attach the siding, auxiliary elements are used: mounting strips and profiles. They are starting, corner and connecting.

To attach the siding, auxiliary elements are used: finishing strips and profiles (photo No. 8)

Siding installation begins with the installation of a starting strip. To do this, determine the bottom mounting point and move 1-2 cm up from it. Next, using building level, chalk or marker, mark a horizontal line. To hold the structure more firmly, a rigid base, for example, a metal corner, is attached under the bar.

The plank is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. Use galvanized fasteners; they are not subject to corrosion. The plank expands under the influence of temperature, so do not tighten the screws (do not drive nails) all the way, leave a small gap (1-2 mm). The further installation of the sheathing depends on the accuracy of installation of the starting strip. After installing the starting strip, install the corner and window elements.

Expert advice. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle of the oblong hole. The fasteners should not press the bar to the frame.

How to attach window siding strip

To secure the siding to the window, use a window strip or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window. The window can be located flush with the wall or equipped with external slopes.

If the window is flush with the sheathing, use a J-profile. First, secure the slats to the sides of the window opening (vertically) so that they do not protrude beyond the window. After this, install horizontal slats: above the window and below the window.

Cut horizontal J-rails not flush with the window, but with a margin of 6 cm on each side. The cutting angle can be made straight or 45°. Do not forget about temperature changes, leave a small gap between the joints of the profiles.

To secure the siding to the window, use a window strip or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window (photo No. 9)

To finish a window opening with slopes up to 22 cm wide, near-window (or wide near-window) strips are used. Installation of the window structure takes place in two stages: first, finishing strips are installed around the perimeter of the window, after which window strips are installed on them.

Slopes whose width exceeds 22 cm require integrated approach for installation. On the perimeter side of the window, a J-profile is installed; on the outer part, a structure is mounted from the outer corner into which the siding panels are inserted.

Installation of door strips

For installation around doors, J-profiles and window strips are used. When installing, it is important to remember the thermal deformation of the elements and not install them tightly to each other.

Attaching the finishing strip

To install the last siding panel, use a finishing strip. Most often it is used at the top of the wall under the eaves. The plank, prepared to size, is attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws (leaving a gap of 1-2 mm). After this, the top part of the siding is placed under the bend of the finishing strip. The last panel may need to be trimmed. To secure the trimmed panel in the finishing strip, make new hooks using a punch.

To install the last siding panel, use the finishing strip (photo No. 10)

How to attach siding to a wooden house

Finishing panels are installed on any type of building. It doesn’t matter if the house is built of brick, foam blocks, concrete or wood, it can be finished with siding. We will tell you how to attach siding to wooden house and other types of buildings.

Expert advice. Check the accuracy of the siding installation every 3 rows. Do this with a building level in the vertical and horizontal direction or use the Alta-Profile facade fastening system in order not to monitor the level.

Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and fire retardant (photo No. 11)

Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and fire retardant. To install the sheathing, you can use nails or self-tapping screws; there is no need to make additional holes.

When finishing concrete and brick buildings, the walls are covered with a primer; to install the sheathing, holes are drilled for dowels into which self-tapping screws are screwed.

Attaching basement siding to the foundation

Basement siding is used to cover the foundation. For this purpose, high-strength vinyl panels are chosen. Such panels are resistant to damage and any temperature changes. The structure and shape of façade panels offers a wide variety of options. The design of façade panels is done “stone-like” and “brick-like”.

Base panels are resistant to damage and any temperature changes (photo No. 12)

You can decide for yourself which panels to choose and how to attach the basement siding to the foundation. First, measure the foundation and calculate the required volumes. As with regular siding, take 10-15% more, so you will have a supply of panels in case of defects.

Plinth panels are thicker and heavier than usual, so for their installation they choose a metal U-shaped profile for siding or ready-made polymer solutions “Alta-Profile” (facade fastening system). Otherwise, the installation of basement siding is the same as the installation of standard panels.

Conclusion

We told you how to properly attach siding, explained how to install sheathing and select materials. If you decide to cover your house with siding yourself, first of all check that you have the necessary tools and calculate the required volumes of materials.

Prepare the walls, choose the type of lathing, insulation materials and insulation. When installing, do not forget that siding expands under the influence of temperature. Leave small gaps to avoid deformation of the panels.

All modern materials, which are intended for finishing the facades of houses, must not only protect its walls from ultraviolet radiation, snow and rain, but also highlight the house with different color solutions, interesting details and outfit. Proper installation of siding with your own hands will allow you to protect and decorate your home, while providing it with important performance characteristics.

Preparing the wall surface

Vinyl will look great on almost any facade. It is quite easy to work with it; the main thing is to carefully study all the available technical documentation.

First you need to thoroughly prepare the surface of the walls:

1. If you have wooden walls, then you need to replace all the rotten boards and nail down any loose ones.
2. If the walls are plastered, then you need to remove old plaster from those places where it has peeled off or does not hold securely on the wall.
3. Next, you should remove the existing moldings from the walls, drainpipes and mounting lights.
4. It is also advisable to remove all protruding ebbs and window sills.

On next stage it is necessary to make a sheathing of wooden slats or metal guides on the surface of all walls.

For arrangement wooden sheathing You can use bars of different sections made from coniferous wood. And for metal sheathing You should use a profile designed for installing drywall. This profile is made from rolled galvanized steel by stamping.

When installing siding horizontally, sheathing bars must be installed vertically every 40 cm. In addition, metal guides or bars must be secured around doors and windows, at the top and bottom of the siding area and at all corners.

If planned vertical installation siding, then the sheathing should be done horizontally, and everything else is done in the same way as with vertical sheathing.

The sheathing frame must be attached to the wall as follows:

1. Each siding panel must be attached to at least two bars located along its edges.
2. The edge of each siding panel should lie completely on the front surface of the bars.
3. The sheathing bars must be attached to the wall very securely.
4. The front parts of the bars to which the siding panels will adjoin must be in the same plane, without distortions.
5. The plane formed by the sheathing bars must be strictly vertical.

During installation of the sheathing, you need to be careful, trying to mark as carefully as possible and then check vertical plane using long rules-levels and plumb lines. If you don't do this, you may end up with uneven, wave-like façade cladding.

If you want additionally, you can fill the space between the sheathing bars with insulation, but the thickness of the insulation layer should be equal to the thickness of the sheathing bars. Therefore, when choosing the thickness of the bars, you need to think in advance about the insulation that you are going to use. This is very important to create a smooth surface.

As insulation under vinyl siding, you can use mineral wool in rigid rolls or slabs. It is not recommended to use loose insulation, as it may become deformed during operation.

Insulation should be performed in the following sequence:

1. First you need to install insulation boards between the sheathing bars.
2. Then a diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer should be secured on top of the insulation using special perforated membranes.
3. You also need to provide a small gap for ventilation by filling bars with a cross section of 4x2 cm.

Installing siding with your own hands is necessary in compliance with certain rules:

• When temperature changes, vinyl siding can change its size, so during installation it is necessary to leave a small (7 - 10 mm) gap between the panels;
• When installing siding, do not forget that the panel should move freely within the perforations;
• Do not nail the nails too tightly; it is advisable to leave a small (0.9 mm) gap between the surface of the panel and the nail head;
• fastening the siding panels must begin from the center and then move to the edges;
• the fastener must be located in the center of the perforation hole;
• It is necessary to ensure that the fasteners are perpendicular to the plane of the wall.

Panel cutting

In order to cut strips and panels of vinyl siding, you can use the following tools:

1. A power saw with an abrasive wheel.
2. Jigsaw.
3. Metal scissors.
4. Cutter knife.

The panel should be cut from the top edge, where the perforations are located. You need to work very carefully, trying to avoid chipping the surface of the panel.

• first you need to determine where the lowest level is on the wall and hammer in a temporary nail slightly above this point;
• then you also need to hammer in nails at the corners of the house at the same level. Then, using a painter's cord and blue or chalk, you need to beat off a straight line between the nails on the wall;
• these actions must be done on all walls of the house;
• and at the end, you should install the starting strip so that its upper edge is on the previously marked line, and nail it to the bars.

Corner strips

At the joints of the walls, it is necessary to install external and internal corners. These parts should be secured by driving nails into the upper holes of the panels. Next, the nails should be driven in the center of the holes at a distance of 30-40 cm. If the length of the corner is not enough, then you can join them.

This is done as follows:

1. First you need to cut off the side parts from the top edge (about 2.5 cm), without touching the central part.
2. The next corner piece must be placed on top of the previous one with a small (0.5 cm) gap so that the corner can breathe during thermal expansion.

Window edging and doorways can be done using the J rail in the following sequence:

1. First you need to install the side rails exactly along the window opening.
2. Then you need to cut and bend an eye in the bottom of the window (top) rail, and then bend it down.
3. This must be done at each corner of the window.

This strip is used to connect siding panels. It is installed in the same way as the corner elements.

The finishing strip is mounted flush with the cornice at the very top of the wall. Subsequently, the edge of the last panel will snap into the groove of the finishing strip.

Panel installation

After all the connecting and corner strips have been installed, you can begin installing the siding panels themselves. According to the installation instructions, work should begin from the rear of the building, and then move from there to the facade.

The bottom edge of the first panel must be inserted into the starting rail, and then its top edge must be nailed to the wall. Next, the sheathing is done by joining the parts with an overlap (about 2.5 cm). Be sure to remember that the very last nail was located on the panel 10 cm from its edge.

Conclusion

Vinyl siding is very versatile and can be used to decorate any facade, as it can give a building a special chic and decorate old walls.

Siding can be used even in frame housing construction, where the walls are a kind of layer cake in which inner side it is sheathed with some kind of panels, the outer one is covered with siding, and insulation is used as a filling.

Currently such frame houses are becoming very popular, since they are erected very quickly and are at the same time very warm (meter brickwork replace only 15 cm of insulation).

Installing vinyl siding will not cause any difficulties, and its price is quite affordable. During installation, siding panels are easily snapped into place and then secured with self-tapping screws, screws and nails, so installing siding with your own hands is reminiscent of playing with a construction set. But the result of such finishing will delight the owners of the house for many years.

Currently, finishing with metal siding is a fairly popular way of decorating and insulating facades. The advantages of this material include the fact that it allows you to work very quickly and without loss of quality, even with large areas.

There are more and more people who want to decorate the facade of their house with metal siding, and this is despite the rather high cost of both the material itself and the work on its installation.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the advantages of metal siding are:

1. After finishing the house with metal siding, its facade can withstand almost any temperature. The insulating layer will work in the temperature range from +50 to -50 degrees. And even if there are sudden temperature changes, the facade will not suffer any deformation of the structure or any cracks.
2. Most metal siding manufacturers guarantee that their products will last about 50 years. But in order for metal siding to serve without problems for so many years, two conditions must be met - you must purchase high-quality siding and finish the house strictly according to technology.
3. Siding panels do not rust or burn.
4. This material has a fairly durable surface, so even if in the future it is subjected to occasional mechanical impacts from time to time, this will not lead to the formation of scratches.
5. Thanks to the presence of such facade system, the walls of the house and their insulation layer can breathe, which prevents the accumulation of condensation and the process of rotting, and this significantly extends the life cycle of the building.
6. In addition, if you decorate the walls with metal siding, you will not have to periodically paint it, because high-quality siding will not fade in the sun and will not lose its external luster. If it gets dirty, it can be very easily cleaned with plain water.
7. Thanks to the assembly technology, all fasteners are hidden under the panels, which gives the facade a more attractive appearance.
8. And the most important thing is that this material is environmentally friendly.

Among the shortcomings, only a couple of points can be noted:

1. Many manufacturers' technology for installing siding is such that if one element of the facade breaks, you will have to dismantle almost the entire wall to replace it.
2. But if you have experience, there is no need to carry out such large-scale work; everything can be done quite quickly.

For example, you can use an ordinary brick house, which you need to cover with siding and insulate yourself. In order for the work to be completed at the proper level and for you to work comfortably, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need during the installation process.

To install metal siding yourself, you will need the following materials and tools:

• the siding panels themselves;
• guide profile;
• steam or hydrobarrier (there is no difference between them);
• mineral wool;
• timber or profile for the frame;
• umbrella fasteners for insulation, metal screws and quick installation;
• hammer drill, screwdriver and grinder;
• scaffolding;
• metal scissors, plumb line and square;
• good screwdrivers and hammer;
• rule with a level, tape measure and pencil.

Once you have prepared all the materials listed above, you can begin to work.

First stage. Frame assembly

The profile must be attached vertically to the wall, and for this you will need to mark several marking lines.

• Using a tape measure and a pencil, you need to mark several horizontal points at the top of the wall (every 50-70 cm). Then you need to apply a plumb line to each point and mark the lowest point. After this, you should connect the upper and lower points to get vertical lines. To make things go faster, you can use not a pencil, but a special upholstery cord with paint.
• Next you need to fix the profile to U-shaped fastenings, which must be screwed to the wall, along each vertical line.
• The U-shaped fasteners should be located vertically from each other at a distance of approximately half a meter, for which points should be marked in advance. In order to increase the speed of installation, points can be marked only on the extreme verticals, and then use the same upholstery cord.
• When all the points are marked, you can start drilling and then fixing the U-shaped fasteners using quick installation.
• After this, you need to place the profile or beam against the wall, inserting it into the U-shaped fasteners, and fasten them together. This is best done with a screwdriver and special screws, using a stretched thread as a beacon to get a flat surface.
• You can also use the rule attached to two profiles for alignment. All profiles that fall between them should be fastened according to the rule.

When all the work described is completed, your frame will be ready.

Second phase. Installation of ventilation layer and insulation

It is best to use good mineral wool as insulation rather than polystyrene foam, since the wool will not block condensation from the wall surface and will allow the wall to breathe.

Sold both in mats and in rolls. Mat in mats has a higher cost, but it is more convenient to work with.

Its installation should be done as follows:

• first it must be cut into strips of the required width;
• then you should put cotton wool between the profiles;
• after that, using a hammer drill and long drill you need to make holes for the dowels;
• Next, you need to insert umbrellas into the holes and nail them.

After all the insulation has been secured, you will need to carefully check whether there is any free space between the insulation. If everything is in order, then you can begin installing the vapor barrier film:

• First you need to roll out the roll and cut off the required piece of film from it, which should be applied horizontally to the bottom of the wall and screwed at the points of contact with the profile. For attaching the film, screws with a wide head are best suited, since thanks to them the film will not come off.
• If you used timber for the sheathing, it will be much easier for you to attach the film, because you won’t have to screw it in, but you can fasten it with a stapler.
• It is necessary to start attaching the film from bottom to top so that the next strip overlaps the previous one. Thanks to this, there will be no cracks and even if water gets on the panels, the insulation will be reliably protected from it.
• For greater reliability, you can seal all seams with special tape, since in this case you can prevent snow from getting in even in strong winds. But if you purchased high-quality siding, then it will be very difficult for snow to get under the facade.
• After fixing the entire film, it is recommended to screw small wooden planks, whose thickness can be about 2 cm. This will allow you to organize a ventilation space between the siding and the film.

This is the simplest stage, since the most labor-intensive stages (insulation and leveling) are left behind.

• First you need to attach guide strips to the walls using a screwdriver, into which the panels will then be inserted.
• Siding is most often assembled from the bottom up. This is done so that there are no gaps between the panels due to overlap. But there are some brands of siding that have a universal edge. This siding does not care about the order of assembly.
• After the panel is inserted, you need to screw it at all points to the profile, and only then insert the next one. All panels need to be screwed in the same sequence.
• You may have difficulty with the last panel, as sometimes you have to use a grinder to make it very narrow and then insert it into the top track.

Conclusion

As can be seen from what was written above, installing metal siding with your own hands is not too difficult, so if you wish and carefully carry out all the work, you will get an excellent result.

Is it possible to install basement siding yourself? Manufacturers are constantly improving this finishing material, so it is quite possible to install it yourself. To do this, you just need to take into account some of the features of this material and adhere to a certain sequence when performing work.

Before you begin installing basement siding, it is necessary to prepare the surface of all walls, install load-bearing frame, as well as a layer of hydro- and thermal insulation, if necessary.

Preparation of the foundation, plinth and walls

First, you need to look at how smooth the walls of the plinth are, since when installing siding, the permissible difference in unevenness between the walls and the plinth should not exceed two centimeters. If there are large irregularities, they will need to be leveled in advance using cement mortar.

The base on which the basement siding will be installed must be clean and dry. It is very important that the moisture content of the foundation and plinth does not exceed four percent at a depth of three centimeters. This is very important for the installation of almost any curtain facades, because high humidity may negatively affect the quality of the facing material, that is, in the future, the siding may become deformed under the influence of moisture. All your work will be in vain and you will have to start all over again.

In addition, it is advisable to treat the base with an antiseptic primer, which can penetrate deeply and prevent the formation of fungal and mold infections.

Frame installation

Self-installation of basement siding must be carried out on a load-bearing sheathing, which must be well fixed to the wall.

It is best to make the frame of the sheathing from a galvanized metal profile, which can be purchased at any hardware store along with the siding itself. According to the installation instructions for basement siding, the frame must be strictly vertical. It is for this reason that it is necessary to begin installation by aligning the upper and lower supporting profiles to the water level.

After this, you can install corner supporting profiles, which must also be leveled using a level or plumb line.

Of course, you can make the frame from wood, but for this purpose you need to use coniferous wood, since it is least susceptible to rotting processes. According to the instructions, the frame should be made of dry wood, which has been treated in advance with some kind of antiseptic, and its humidity should not be more than 20%.

The standard sheathing pitch when installing basement siding should be 46 centimeters, which is determined by the size of the panel of cladding material.

If the building has absolutely flat walls, then basement siding can be attached to them without sheathing. The main thing is not to forget to leave ventilation gaps between the material and the wall so that the walls and foundation do not absorb moisture.

But anyway the best option is a frame that is able to provide the necessary ventilation between the wall and the panels. In addition, with the help of the frame it will be possible to waterproof and insulate the base of the house and the foundation.

To fasten the frame, it is best to use galvanized nails with a hidden head, the length of which is at least three centimeters. When installing the frame, it is necessary to make a strapping around the door and window openings.

You should also take into account the location of drains and other engineering structures:

• exit of conditioned basement systems;
• location of ventilation holes;
• location of electrical wiring.

Thermal insulation and waterproofing

If the groundwater is quite close to the site or the site is located in the northern regions, it is recommended to install an additional layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing material before installing the basement siding.

Most often, a special type of waterproofing is used. polyethylene film, but in addition to the film, you can waterproof the foundation and plinth using a special mastic based on artificial and natural water-repellent resins.

The following materials can be used for the thermal insulation layer:

• natural insulation made of jute and flax;
• natural damask insulation;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene, which is the most common insulation for foundations and basements.

Installation of basement siding

Before you begin installation, you must carefully study the videos and photographs that are presented on the Internet, where the entire process is described step by step. There are several types of basement siding and there are some nuances when installing each. Most often, instructions for its installation are included with the siding itself.

The basic requirements for installing basement siding with your own hands, compliance with which will allow you to achieve a good result:

• All panels must be stored on their edges, in the direction of the arrows drawn on the reverse side;
• if installation work will be carried out in cold weather, then it is necessary to keep the material for about ten hours in a warm room so that the panel has time to acquire flexibility during this time;
• Installation of panels must begin from the bottom row. Sometimes installation can begin with the upper supporting profile, but this is only applicable for basement siding, which is attached using the “pin-groove” method;
• at self-installation It is best to begin installation of siding on the left side of the building, gradually moving to the right. But there are materials that need to be mounted on the right. You can clarify this parameter in the instructions;
• You cannot attach the panels to the frame rigidly; you must leave a small gap between the panel and the fastening head, which is necessary so that the fasteners do not damage the siding during thermal expansion;
• siding panels expand when heated, so the gap between the panels in cold weather should be approximately 10 mm, and in warm weather - from 6 to 9 mm;
• It is imperative to drive the fastening nails into the middle of the mounting hole, since otherwise the siding may burst when heated;
• produce self-mounting basement siding is necessary only with the help of galvanized fasteners, since subsequently the fasteners may become rusty under the influence of moisture, which will negatively affect the appearance facade.

Having detailed information and carefully studying all the instructions, you can easily decorate your house with siding.

In order to quickly and with minimal costs To repair the façade of a building, we choose a material whose installation can be done without the involvement of specialists. This material is siding. Its varieties and how to work with it will be discussed further.

The choice of such material for wall cladding is supported by its positive characteristics.

1. Environmental safety: siding is chemically resistant, does not emit harmful substances and environment substances.
2. Fire safety. Wood siding treated with fire retardants, vinyl does not support combustion.
3. Resistant to fungi, mold and rot. Antiseptic treatment increases the service life of wood siding.
4. Siding is not afraid of temperature changes and does not deform if installed correctly.
5. Aesthetic appeal: siding successfully imitates wooden frame. After cladding, the walls become perfectly smooth. Behind the panels you can hide electrical cables and water pipes. A wide palette of colors and shades allows you to choose a material that matches other objects located in the garden area.

Manufacturers offer siding various colors and sizes

What is needed to cover walls with siding?

The following types of siding are distinguished:

• vinyl;
• metal;
• fiber cement;
• wood.

All of the listed materials are attached to the sheathing, mounted from wooden slats or metal profiles.

Advice: it is better to choose a metal profile for the lathing. It allows you to create a stronger and more durable frame. This profile is easier to mount to the wall.

If the choice of material for sheathing is wooden slats, it is necessary to exclude wood with the following defects:

• cyanosis;
• curvature;
• traces of damage by insects;
• rottenness;
• material delamination and cracks.

Before installation wooden slats treated with an antiseptic.

In order to hide all the unevenness of the base, the sheathing is attached at some distance from it, using hangers.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing made of metal profiles

The technology provides the following actions.

1. Let's prepare the base. It is necessary to dismantle the façade finishing elements that have become unusable: wooden shutters, platbands, falling off plaster and facing tiles. This is necessary so that the sheathing is attached to a solid base.
2. We apply markings to the base at the places where the vertical sheathing elements are attached.
3. The hangers are attached to the base using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws (selected depending on the base material).
4. Installation of vertical guides after marking. Vertical wooden slats or metal profiles are screwed to the hangers with self-tapping screws. We install the lathing with an installation step of 0.5 m.

Scheme of lathing from wooden slats

Guides are installed subject to the rules.

1. Installation begins from the corner - on both sides at a distance of 50-70 mm. This is necessary for installing the corner profile.
2. The position of the guides is controlled by a level: it must be strictly vertical. Small (up to 3-5 degrees) deviations to the sides are allowed.
3. A guide is also installed near the corners of window and door openings, as well as arches and niches.
4. We additionally install guides for gutters.

Fastening the rail to hangers

Here's a video about how walls are insulated.

Installing a starting profile for siding installation

In order to secure the lower panels, we mount jprofiles (starting). They must be positioned strictly horizontally, since the quality of the wall surface depends on this. The work is being carried out in stages.

The starting profile is attached to the vertical guides

1. We determine the horizontal line from which the installation of panels will begin. We set aside 5 cm from it and put a mark with a marker on the vertical guide.
2. Using a building level, we make the appropriate marks on all corners of the house.
3. We stretch the cord between the marks and make marks along the entire perimeter of the house.
4. On the vertical guides we mark the position of the corner connecting profiles. To do this, temporarily install the profile at the mounting location and outline its boundaries with a marker.
5. We set aside 6 millimeters from each border of the corner profiles to the sides or cut off the nail strips (they are located at the edges).
6. Adhering to the designated boundaries, we attach the starting profile to vertical elements frame.

Installation of starting and corner profiles

Attention: to avoid deformation of the profiles as a result of temperature changes, a gap of 10 mm must be left between adjacent elements.

Installation of corner profiles

The work is performed in the following order.

1. We determine the level of fastening of the roofing sheathing (soffits). This is necessary to indicate the upper limit of the corner profiles.
2. Stepping down from the 3 mm line marked with a marker, we install the corner profiles and fix them in the upper part to the guides with self-tapping screws. We mount the outer corner profiles so that their lower edges fit into the groove of the j-profiles.
3. Using a level or plumb line, we adjust the position of the corner profiles: it must be strictly vertical. We screw the screws into the nail strips of the profiles along their entire height. The distance between the screws is about 20 cm (but not more than 40 mm).
4. We extend the profiles if the height of the corners exceeds 3 m. To do this, we cut the nail strips of the lower profile so that the upper profile overlaps it with an overlap of 25 mm. Trimming is done with metal scissors.

Extension of corner profile

Tip: for economic reasons, the corner profile can be replaced by joining two j-profiles. Loss of tightness is eliminated using a roll of insulating material, which is glued in the corner.

We mount internal corner profiles by analogy with external elements. We screw in the screws in increments of 20 mm and always in the upper and lower parts (at the edges).

How openings are framed with siding

Openings in the same plane as the facade are designed in compliance with the following technology.

1. Waterproofing material is laid.
2. We install frames of openings using j-profiles.
3. We connect profiles.

Design of openings

To ensure that the corners of the openings are designed with high quality, we do the following.

1. On all sides of the upper profiles we cut off the vertical sections so that horizontal sections remain (the width of the profile).
2. We bend the horizontal sections down: it will close the hole in the lower profile and prevent the penetration of rain moisture.
3. We cut off sections of plastic on the side profiles so that they do not interfere with the connection with the platband or window frame.
4. Connecting profiles.

The connection of profiles with casing (window frame) in the lower part of the opening is carried out in a similar way.

It is allowed to finish the corners of openings and arches using a starting profile

If the openings are recessed into the facade, we use similar techniques when designing them. It is important that the folding bridges block the path of rain moisture to the inside of the cladding elements.

Advice: it is recommended to decorate the slopes of windows, deepened by no more than 200 mm, using window strips.

Siding installation technology

Rules for installing the first siding panel

Using the advice of siding experts, we begin work by covering the wall that is most hidden from view. This is necessary to learn how to fasten the material correctly and avoid further mistakes. We adhere to the following rules.

Installation diagram of the first panel

1. We insert the siding panel simultaneously into the groove of the corner and starting profiles. It is important that the panel does not rest against the grooves, but is secured with a gap of 6 mm.
2. The gap size may vary depending on the ambient temperature: during summer installation 6 mm is sufficient, in winter a distance of at least 9 mm is required.

Continue installation of siding

We install the rest of the siding in the same way as the first panel. In doing so, we comply with the following rules.

1. Periodically, using a level, we check the position of the panels: it must be strictly horizontal.
2. We cut off excess areas when facing walls with openings.
3. We use a punch and hooks to securely connect the panels.
4. We install the finishing strip at the bottom of the opening, lying in the same plane as the wall.

We install the panels from bottom to top, controlling their horizontalness

How to splice siding panels

In the event that it is necessary to use siding scraps for cladding less critical walls, we build up the panels using any of the methods indicated below.

Options for splicing siding panels

1. We use an H-profile. We select panels of the same length in such a way as to join them with a common connecting H-profile. When installing siding panels into the groove, leave a minimum compensation gap of 6 mm.
2. We overlap. To do this, it is necessary to cut the panel fragments (fastening frames and locks) so that when two elements are joined, an overlap of 25 mm is formed.

It is advisable to join the panels on an inconspicuous area of ​​the wall.

Installation of siding panels under the roof

Installation of siding under the roof is associated with the problem of designing the edge of a panel cut to the width. The top panel is installed using the technology described below.

Installation of the top panel under the roof

1. We attach the j-profile horizontally to the roofing sheathing with the groove down.
2. We measure the distance from the key groove of the reinforced penultimate panel to the top of the j-profile.
3. Subtract 2 mm from the result obtained.
4. According to the final size, we cut the top panel from the side of the lock connection.
5. To ensure that the cut edge of the siding holds well in the groove of the j-profile, we cut it in several places and bend it about 10 mm at a right angle. Such hooks should be every 200 mm along the entire length of the panel.
6. We install the prepared panel into the lock of the lower element and, slightly bending it, insert it into the upper profile.

Facing the gable with siding

We install the pediment according to the following algorithm.

1. We attach the starting or j-profile around the perimeter. If the filing is also decorated with siding or vinyl soffits, in the upper part of the gable the starting or j-profile can be replaced with a corner one.
2. By trimming the left and right edges of the panels at an angle to match the angle roof slopes, we install them using the above technology. We install self-tapping screws in the middle of the slots. We follow the rule regulating the size of compensation gaps.
3. We fix the top of the last (top) panel using a self-tapping screw directly through the material. We close the self-tapping screw with a plastic plug, selected by color.

Panel installation diagram for finishing the pediment

General rules for installing siding

Regardless of what type of siding and what material it is made of, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules during installation.

1. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the holes of the fastening strips.
2. Do not tighten the screws tightly so as not to deform the panel and maintain the ability to compensate for thermal expansion.
3. The panels are mounted from bottom to top.
4. A compensation gap is left between adjacent elements to prevent temperature deformations.
5. To fasten wood siding, zinc-coated hardware is used. This is necessary to avoid wood rotting.
6. Cladding the walls of newly constructed buildings is carried out after they have settled.

Here's a visual demonstration technological process- video on how to install vinyl siding using expert advice.