Installation of a sandwich chimney. Recommendations from experts

Proper installation of the chimney pipe through the attic floor, rafter system and roof is no less important than compliance with all other requirements when building the stove itself. The fire safety of the house, and therefore of everyone living in it, as well as the efficiency of the heating device, will depend on how reliably these components are equipped.

The passage of the chimney through a wooden ceiling must be especially reliable, since in this area the heated walls of the pipe are in close proximity to flammable materials. In order to protect the floor elements, various thermal insulation materials and special devices can be used - there is no shortage of them on the market today.

To be completed similar works must be handled with the utmost responsibility. Therefore, to understand these issues, you should familiarize yourself with the current requirements regulatory documents, consider the process of passing the chimney through the ceiling in order to carry out everything strictly according to the rules established by regulatory organizations.

What do building codes and regulations (SNiP) say about this?

SNiP 41-01-2003 “Ventilation, air conditioning and heating” regulates the main aspects related to the arrangement of various autonomous systems heating. Since this publication is devoted to the analysis design features passage of the chimney through the attic floor, special attention must be paid to section 6.6 - this is “ Stove heating", and its subsections.

In some cases, these existing rules become a real problem for owners of private houses when arranging their home heating system. Such difficulties arise due to the fact that some of the requirements for modern heating systems and materials used for thermal insulation are clearly outdated. However, despite possible obvious contradictions, regulatory organizations rely on this guidance and demand compliance with established standards.

It must be remembered that if a stove is installed in a newly built house, then it will be necessary to legalize its presence with the fire services, otherwise it will simply not be possible to register the property. Such a permit is issued on the basis of a document drawn up by an employee of the controlling organization who accepts the building. If during the inspection serious violations of current standards are discovered, then there is no escape - the mistakes will have to be corrected. Therefore, it is best not to immediately deviate from the established standards.

Not everyone likes the dry language of regulatory documents, and that is why they are simply afraid to look into them. Let's try to outline these rules for them in a few paragraphs:

The thickness of the walls of a brick chimney in the area of its passage through the floors, roofing or walls (partitions) must be greater than along the main height. This thickening is called cutting.

According to existing standards, the cutting thickness is calculated taking into account the thickness of the pipe itself. Craftsmen often use the colloquial term “from smoke” in this regard. So, the standard cutting size is:

- 500 mm if the pipe borders a building structure made of flammable material (which, of course, includes a wooden floor).

- 380 mm - for those cases when the materials of the building structure are protected from fire by a layer of plaster of at least 25 mm reinforced with steel mesh, or a metal sheet with an asbestos lining underneath with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

The height of the chimney cut must be at least 70 mm greater than the thickness of the ceiling. By the way, SNiP does not stipulate from which side these millimeters should “look out” - from below, on the ceiling, or in the attic. Judging by the forums, there is also no unanimity among the masters. But, as a rule, customers ask to fulfill flat ceiling in the room, therefore a 70 mm step can be located in the attic. However, if you read the forums again, you can come across cases where fire inspectors demanded a 70-mm “side” both at the top and bottom. And it was not possible to convince them otherwise.
It is not advisable to attach the chimney section rigidly to the floor materials or to rest it on any building structures. True, there is no categorical prohibition in this regard, but one should still adhere to such a recommendation so that the deformation of one element that occurs for some reason does not entail the destruction of another.
The space between the cutting and the building structure is filled with non-combustible materials. The list of materials is not specified, but in practice those that can be classified as thermal insulators are usually used - expanded clay, vermiculite, mineral wool.
If the pipe is cut through the opening of a wall or partition and flammable materials, then its thickness cannot be less than the thickness of the partition itself. In this case, the cutting must be done along the entire height of the wall.
When the pipe passes through the roofing, cutting is also often performed, which in this place is called “otter”. In any case, the distance from the outer walls to any elements roofing structure of combustible materials must be at least 130 mm for brick pipe, and 250 mm – for ceramic without thermal insulation (when using insulation with a heat transfer resistance of at least 0.3 m²×ºС/W – 130 mm). The roof section at the passage point should only be made of non-combustible material.
When constructing a stove and its chimney, it is important to maintain the distance to walls and partitions. This gap has its own name - retreat. The amount of derogation is also regulated by the requirements of SNiP:

Chimney wall thickness, mm	Indentation type	Distance from the outer surface of the furnace wall or chimney to a wall or partition made of combustible material, mm
		- surface not protected from fire	- surface protected from fire
120 (ceramic fired brick)	Open	260	200
120 (ceramic fired brick)	Closed	320	260
65 (heat-resistant concrete)	Open	320	260
65 (heat-resistant concrete)	Closed	500	380

The surface will be considered protected from fire if the requirements mentioned above are met - plaster required thickness or asbestos-metal “pie”. In this case, the dimensions of the area where such protection is made must be larger than the dimensions of the stove or chimney pipe by at least 150 mm in each direction.

These requirements are optional only for partitions made of materials with a fire resistance rating of REI 60 and higher (maintaining load-bearing capacity, integrity and thermal insulation properties during 60 minutes of direct exposure to fire) and zero flame spread limit.

When installing factory-made metal stoves, you must adhere to the recommendations given in the documentation from the manufacturer. If there are none, they act general rules.
It has important and the distance between the stove itself (its upper wall) and the ceiling. The following standards apply here:

A. If the furnace ceiling consists of three continuous brick rows, then this distance should be no less than:

— for unprotected ceilings - 350 mm with periodic firing, and 1000 mm - for long-burning stoves.

- for ceilings protected by a plaster layer or asbestos 10 mm + metal - 250 and 700 mm, respectively.

B. If the stove ceiling consists of only two continuous rows, then the above distances to the ceiling should be increased by one and a half times.

IN. For metal stoves, the clearance between their upper surface and the ceiling of the room should be at least 800 mm if the ceiling has the thermal protection mentioned above, and 1200 mm if it does not.

The passage of metal chimneys through any ceilings or walls must be done through sleeves made of non-hot material.

The sealing of gaps around chimney pipes must be done with non-combustible materials (class NG or, in extreme cases, G1), best of all - with the lowest possible thermal conductivity coefficient. This will provide the necessary fire resistance limit for the fences.

Wood used for installation rafter system and attic floors, belongs to group G3-G4 in terms of flammability. After treating it with fire retardants, it becomes more resistant to fire, but despite this, it remains flammable. It is naive to rely on the “magic qualities” of advertised impregnations, which supposedly make wood completely non-flammable. That is why you should adhere to the standards established by SNiP, correctly positioning the chimney and other parts of the stove at the specified distances from the structural elements of the house.

Independence in these matters, unauthorized deviation from existing rules, simply allowed negligence can lead to tragic consequences, since overheating of building elements adjacent to the furnace structure will most likely end in their ignition.

So, a poorly constructed chimney through a wooden ceiling can easily lead to a fire. To avoid tragic consequences, it is necessary to properly insulate the cutting, ensuring proper level fire safety.

To figure out how to carry out these actions correctly, it is necessary, keeping in mind the recommendations of SNiP, to consider the entire process step by step.

Since the chimney pipe can be metal or brick, it is necessary to separately consider the installation of both options

Penetration for a metal chimney pipe

Special devices and materials for sinking a metal chimney

Box-shaped ceiling-passage structures

Arrangement of the passage of a metal chimney through a wooden floor structure can be done using a ready-made ceiling-passage assembly, or one made independently, but in compliance with the standard dimensions.

If a ready-made version of such penetration is purchased, then its size is selected according to the diameter of the chimney pipe. The convenience of using a factory box is that its design already includes all the dimensions established by SNiP, so you don’t have to rack your brains about it. All that remains is to open an opening in the ceiling for penetration, and then strengthen its thermal protection of the surfaces.

You can make a box penetration yourself. It is made from different materials - it can be a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm, alone or in combination with mineralite, asbestos sheet, with mineral foil on one or both sides basalt wool. If the box is purchased or made of metal, then it will need to be thermally insulated with regular or foil-coated mineral wool, vermiculite, or expanded clay.

If you decide to make such a penetration yourself, then the diameter of the hole in its central part should be approximately 0.5 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe. This is done so that the metal pipe passes freely through the box, but at the same time, the gap between them is not too large.

To make a penetration, you can use the dimensions shown in the illustrations and presented in the table:

Letter designation of structural elements and size in mm
d - hole diameter	L - length of the side of the decorative panel of the box	G - width of the sides of the box	H - box height
205	580	370	310
215	580	370	310
255	580	450	310
285	580	450	310

If the passage box is made only from foil-clad mineral wool 50 mm thick, then cutting the elements for it is best done using pre-made templates. The parts are assembled into a single structure using heat-resistant foil tape. Having chosen this option for cutting, you must not forget that you will also need to purchase or manufacture one or two metal panels for it. One of them is attached to ceiling surface, flush with it, and the second (optional) covers the thermal insulation material from the attic side.

Another option for penetration could be a box made of metal sheet, insulated with the same foiled mineral wool. This insulation is cut into strips with a width equal to the height of the resulting box and laid along the walls at the end, with the foil side facing the pipe. The space of the box free from the pipe must be tightly filled with thermal insulator.
The box can also be made of mineralite (fiber-reinforced concrete slabs) 10 mm thick. Structural elements are also cut out using prepared templates and then fastened together using metal corners. A smaller box made of a metal sheet 0.5 mm thick is installed and secured into a casing made of this material.

There should be a gap of 10÷15 mm wide between the walls of the outer and inner boxes, which is filled with basalt insulation, and the space around the pipe can be filled with vermiculite, expanded clay of fine or medium fraction, or the same mineral wool. The holes through which the pipe will pass must have the same diameter in both boxes. To aesthetically design the penetration from the side of the living room, you can also use a metal plate, or leave the fiber cement board open. After finishing installation work, the slab facing the living space will be easy to paint to match the color of the ceiling.

Video - Making and installing a homemade box-shaped chimney penetration sauna stove

Heat-resistant materials for making penetrations

The characteristics of heat-resistant materials that are used to insulate the ceiling penetration deserve a few minutes of attention. They differ in some qualities from conventional insulation made on the same basis.

Minerite is an absolutely non-flammable material, which is also called fiber cement boards. It is often used for wall cladding in areas where stoves are installed and where chimneys pass through.

Minerite prices

This material is not only resistant to extremely high temperatures, but also moisture-resistant, has good mechanical strength, and does not contribute to the formation of mold and mildew colonies. Minerite is an environmentally friendly material, therefore at elevated temperatures it does not emit fumes harmful to human health.

Minerit LV panels are used to make screens installed in the grooves and on the walls around stoves and chimneys. In addition, such panels are also suitable for the construction of fire-resistant partitions.

Non-combustible slabs made of basalt wool and covered with aluminum foil, are used for fire protection of walls and passages around chimneys.

This material is made from environmentally friendly components and is highly resistant to aggressive biological and chemical influences. In terms of its thermal insulation properties, mineral wool is certainly many times superior to mineralite, but is inferior to it in mechanical strength and durability.

High-quality basalt slabs do not accumulate moisture, and they do not create a favorable environment for the settlement of rodents and insects, or the appearance of microflora colonies. This type of insulation belongs to the flammability group G1. (And this is only due to the adhesive layer that holds the foil covering, since in its “pure form” basalt insulation can be classified as a completely non-combustible material). Basalt slabs from different manufacturers may differ slightly in the upper limit of the operating temperature range. But in any case, it ranges from +750 to 1100 degrees, which should be more than enough for the chimney duct.

Prices for basalt slabs

basalt slabs

Installation of penetration for a metal pipe

Before installing the penetration into the window cut out for it in the attic floor, it must be prepared, additionally strengthened, if necessary, and insulated from high temperatures.

The first step is to additionally monitor the condition of the opening and its surrounding parts. ceiling structure. This is done to make sure that the box will be securely fastened in it.

The box penetration must be firmly fixed to the ceiling structure. It is, of course, positioned so that it is between the floor beams (it is clear that these issues regarding the placement of the stove in the room are always thought out in advance). Beams can become a reliable basis for fastening the penetration, located on the sides of it.

However, it often happens that the floor beams are located too far from each other and therefore the floor “pie” in the area where the pipe passes does not have the necessary rigidity and will need to be strengthened. Another option, exactly the opposite, is that the spacing of the installed beams is too frequent and does not leave enough free space to accommodate the box penetration.

In any of these cases, after removing the desired section of the coating, you can mount the frame in accordance with the dimensions of the box using wooden beam. The cross members of this frame are rigidly cut into the floor beams. If necessary, if the beams are too widely spaced, additional longitudinal support beams can be used in the frame. An example of creating such a frame is shown in the illustration.

Such checking and strengthening (revision) of the frame will be necessary if it is installed in an already built house. However, as a rule, the installation of stoves and, therefore, the installation of chimneys are planned in advance. And during the installation of floor beams during the construction of a building, such a frame is provided in advance for the subsequent installation of a box penetration.

Further, all wooden parts of the ceiling structure located around the perimeter of the cut window for penetration must be additionally treated with a special impregnation. The flame retardants included in the composition will increase fire characteristics the node being created. Further operations are carried out only after the treated surfaces have completely dried.

The next step is to install a penetration box into the cut opening from the side of the room. The edges of its bottom part are securely screwed onto the ceiling surface with self-tapping screws.

But this operation should be performed only after careful control of the location round hole for the chimney relative to the heating device. It is unacceptable for even a slight deviation to cause unevenness or a “kink” in the installed pipe. This will create unnecessary stress in its walls and may well lead to insufficient sealing at the joints.

It is best to accurately adjust the position of the box passage using a plumb line to ensure that the axis of the pipe being installed is vertical.

Next, the lower part of the chimney pipe is assembled, starting from the outlet pipe of the stove (boiler).

It is very important - whatever the distance from the stove to the ceiling, and whatever components are used, never, under any circumstances, the connection of two elements (pipes) of the chimney should fall on the ceiling. Moreover, the minimum distance from such a connecting unit to the surface of the ceiling (no matter from below, indoors, or from above, from the attic) must be at least 300 mm.

The requirements for the correct location of the interfaces of individual pipes are important, of course, from the standpoint of ensuring visual inspection. But the main predetermining factor of such a considerable (300 mm) distance from the ceiling is the continuing likelihood of a breakthrough of hot gases in these, let’s be honest, the remaining most vulnerable places of the prefabricated metal chimney.

The next stage of work can be carried out from the attic or living space, depending on how it is more convenient to install the next section of the pipe. If the work is carried out from the attic side, then the next part of the chimney pipe is passed through the hole and fixed to the lower, already mounted section.

When the pipe is brought into the attic, you can proceed to filling the penetration box with heat-insulating material. If one of the bulk thermal insulation materials is selected, and there are small gaps between the pipe and the border of the round hole, they can be sealed with basalt wool or plastic clay, and then the insulation can be poured on top.

It is best to choose expanded clay or vermiculite from bulk heat-insulating materials. Ordinary sand is used for backfilling only as a last resort, since it has too fine a fraction, is heavy and has excessively high thermal conductivity for such a function. swollen perlite sand It is not particularly convenient to use in such conditions due to its excessively high “volatility”.

The easiest way is to fill the box with heat-resistant basalt wool, since it has the lowest thermal conductivity. When using mineral wool mats, the box from the attic side should not be completely sealed in order to have free access to the pipe along its entire length. If the pipe goes to the second floor, then the hole in its floor with insulating material around the chimney can be closed with a metal sheet, screwing it to the floor.

The selection of photographs below demonstrates the installation of a homemade box-shaped penetration made from dense slabs of foil-coated basalt insulation.

— The first two fragments: this is a finished homemade tunnel from different angles.

— Third fragment: a window was cut out in the ceiling to install the penetration. Please note: to ensure maximum safety, the master also filled the resulting gap between the ceiling covering and the attic floor with mineral wool.

— Fourth photo: The penetration box is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed from below.

— Fifth fragment: After installing the section of pipe leading into the attic, the passage is closed from below with a metal panel. It is securely fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, completely covers the edges of the window of the passage unit, holds the heat-insulating box well in the ceiling and provides mechanical protection for the mineral wool panel, which is not particularly durable.

— Sixth photo: Continued installation of the chimney pipe. The gap between the pipe and the box will be tightly filled with mineral wool. Since the attic in this case is “inhabited”, the passage unit will be covered with a decorative metal plate.

And in the video below, the master did without creating a box-shaped structure at all.

Video: fire-proof fluffing of a chimney in a passage through a wooden ceiling

Passage of a brick pipe through the ceiling

A brick chimney is usually designed to protect the surrounding combustible materials from overheating. The section of the pipe that is laid out as it passes through the ceiling is itself a cutting and is called “fluff”.

This chimney design is traditional, long tested, and most often chosen by stove makers.

The “fluff” begins right at the ceiling in the living room (three to four rows of bricks before it) and passes through the entire thickness of the attic floor. Sometimes the fluff is raised to the clean floor of the attic, in other cases it is made flush with the subfloor. Both options can cause quibbles from inspectors - let’s remember the notorious “70 millimeters” already discussed above.

This structural element acts as the necessary thickening of the pipe walls, protecting the flammable materials of the ceiling from overheating.

In fact, the design of the “fluff” is directly influenced by precisely those SNiP requirements that were discussed in the first section of the publication. In order not to repeat ourselves, we can provide a diagram that clearly shows what dimensions must be observed and where:

Is it possible to lay a brick chimney yourself?

The work, at first glance, is not difficult, however, a lot depends on its quality, including the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. Detailed information You can read about it by following the recommended link - it will be easier to figure out whether it’s worth taking on this event yourself, or whether it’s better to invite specialists.

Another option for arranging the penetration of a brick pipe through the ceiling is carried out in almost the same way as a metal pipe. In this case, naturally, the chimney along its entire height has the same cross-sectional size, without increasing the thickness of the walls. However, all linear parameters established by SNiP are observed.

The hole in the ceiling can be covered with a metal sheet or a fiber cement slab. In the middle of the thermal insulation panel, a window is marked through which the chimney will pass. The length and width of this opening should exceed the similar parameters of the pipe by literally 3–5 mm.

When laying a chimney, approximately three or four rows up to the ceiling, a sheet with a prepared opening is placed on it, and then the laying is carried out further up to the height of the finished attic floor.

The next step is to lift the sheet placed on the pipe, press it and fix it to the ceiling in a way convenient for a particular case - with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Further, the work is carried out from the attic or second floor. Along the walls of the opening cut out for excavation, strips of basalt wool, pieces of asbestos or fiber cement boards are laid. This “frame” should cover the entire thickness of the attic floor. If necessary, the material can be fixed to the floor beams.

Thanks to these operations, a kind of box is created around the neck of the pipe, which will be filled with heat-resistant material. You can use basalt wool as it, which tightly fills the entire volume. If cotton wool with a foil layer is used, then it is turned towards the walls of the oven.

It is quite possible to perform similar thermal insulation of a pipe with expanded clay or vermiculite, but before backfilling it is necessary to seal the remaining gaps between the pipe and the edges of the opening, especially if fine-grained material is used.

Of course, you can do exactly the same as with a metal pipe, by putting a ready-made penetration made from a steel sheet onto a brick chimney. This option will probably be more reliable and convenient both in terms of its installation and reliable fixation, and when filling the box with thermal insulation material. True, such a box will cost significantly more. Whether it makes sense - decide for yourself.

Having filled the penetration with insulation, it is also covered with a metal or fiber cement sheet on top.

At this point, work on arranging a safe passage of the chimney through the ceiling can be considered completed.

Having familiarized yourself with the details of the arrangement of this area of the chimney pipe, you can come to the following conclusion:

That there are no particularly complex actions that can only be carried out by highly qualified specialists in this process. The main thing is to scrupulously follow the requirements established by SNiP, maintaining all the necessary dimensions and following the recommendations. If you do everything according to the rules, you can not only ensure safe operation of the heating device, but also avoid completely unnecessary problems with regulatory authorities.

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Author of the publication 28.10.2016

When installing a chimney of any type, the main thing is to follow fire safety rules. Any chimney is a possible source of fire, since the temperatures of the exhaust gases can be very high and the slightest violation in installation can lead to serious consequences.

Passage of a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling using polyurethane foam of various designs

To pass the chimney through wooden structures you can use ready-made ceiling passage unit(see photo). It is selected based on the outer diameter of the pipe. Before installation, this ceiling passage unit must be prepared: all surfaces that will come into contact with the wood of the ceiling sheathing, and all internal surfaces of the passage box, are lined with thermal insulation.

Usually basalt wool serves as thermal insulation, but it must be special: it can withstand high temperatures. When purchasing a material, make sure that it is designed for use at temperatures of 800-1000 o C. These materials have a higher cost, but it is unreasonable to skimp on safety. Cheaper options contain binders that sinter at high temperatures, causing the thermal insulation to lose all its properties, and this can lead to a fire. In addition, it is advisable to use foil heat insulator - this will make the structure even safer.

Having insulated the passage unit, prepare a place for its installation. Mark on the ceiling where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of a suitable size: slightly smaller sizes the front panel of the pass-through unit in such a way that it is convenient to attach it to the ceiling trim with self-tapping screws. Having cut a hole, cover its edges with the same heat insulator as the pass-through unit, or any other with similar properties. To increase the level of fire safety, metal strips can be strengthened on top of the heat insulator. Insert the prepared passage unit into the finished hole. It can be put on the pipe and installed with it. Having installed this structure in place, secure the panel of the passage unit with self-tapping screws (the holes can be pre-drilled).

After checking the vertical installation of the chimney pipe, proceed to complete this stage. The voids remaining in the passage unit are filled with thermal insulation. You can use pieces of the same basalt wool or fill the voids with expanded clay. In theory, you can use sand, but you shouldn’t. It is inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties to both expanded clay and basalt wool, in addition, sooner or later it will end up at the bottom, since there are cracks, and through them grains of sand will fall onto the stove.

Further actions depend on where you led the chimney: to the second floor or to the attic. But the main difference is in aesthetics and the availability of finishing. If you led the chimney pipe into the attic, the passage through the ceiling can be considered complete. If you brought the chimney to the second floor or into the attic, you put a protective metal screen on the pipe, which is now attached to the floor with the same self-tapping screws. After this you proceed to next stage- output through the next ceiling (this is if you are on the second floor) or through the roof, if in the attic or attic.

The chimney passage through the ceiling may also look like this. This is a ready-to-use option that consists of two boxes. The inner box is made of metal, the outer one is made of heat-resistant material (in this case, mineralite).

Between them there is air gap ensuring fire safety. According to the manufacturers, the remaining free space between the sandwich pipe and the cutting box does not require filling with a heat insulator. You can leave everything as it is, or you can, for greater reliability, still add heat-resistant thermal insulation. In such a case, such as a chimney passing through a wooden ceiling, it is better to be on the safe side than to put out a fire later.

The passage through the ceiling can be like this (see photo). In this case, sealing the edges of the hole in the ceiling is mandatory (remember, there is thermal insulation around the edge first, metal on top).

Pipe passage through a chimney without a factory passage unit

It is possible to remove the chimney without a passage device. In this case, the edges of the hole in the ceiling are also sealed with a fire-resistant heat insulator, and metal strips are placed on top of it. A protective plate made of non-flammable material, in which a hole is cut, is put on the sandwich coming from the oven. suitable diameter, and holes are drilled along the edges for fasteners. Traditionally this is a sheet of metal. Next, the sandwich is passed into a hole in the ceiling and fixed there using some non-flammable guides. For example, you can use drywall profiles or something similar. The main thing is to securely fasten the pipe and observe the basic rule of fire safety: there must be a distance of at least 36 cm from the edge of the pipe to the flammable material.

Important! When installing and securing the chimney, keep in mind that the pipe changes its size due to thermal expansion. It must be secured so that it can move relative to the roof.

Then the pipe is lined with non-flammable material from below (from the ceiling). From the attic or second floor side, the voids formed in the groove are filled with a heat insulator. The requirements for it are still the same: tolerance to high temperatures. Expanded clay may be the most budget-friendly. Actually, this completes the exit of the chimney pipe through the ceiling.

Passage through the ceiling of a brick chimney

Brick itself is a good heat insulator; however, for a brick stove, compliance with the rules for passage through flammable materials is also required: there must be a distance of at least 25 cm from the edge of the chimney duct to this material. To ensure this, stove makers make a special penetration on the pipe (see picture) increasing the thickness of the wall of the brick chimney at the point of passage through the ceiling.

If for some reason it is impossible to make such a penetration, you can cut a hole in the ceiling that will be 10 centimeters larger than the size of the chimney on each side. And then repeat the penetration of the round stove through the ceiling:

seal the edges with heat-resistant thermal insulation material;
cover it with strips of metal (minerite is also suitable if someone has it);
sew up the side of the room with a metal sheet;
Fill the resulting voids on the attic/second floor side with heat-resistant thermal insulation material;
if necessary, cover the ceiling cutout from the attic/second floor side with a sheet of metal.

With this option, the brick pipe is quite reliably insulated (just use heat-resistant heat insulating materials with a use temperature of 800-1000 o C).

Passage through the roof of a brick chimney

The passage of a chimney through the roof must be solved simultaneously by two not very simple tasks: Ensure fire safety and tightness. According to fire safety rules, in places where the chimney comes into contact with flammable materials, the temperature of the chimney walls should not be higher than 50 o C. For brick chimneys, this is solved by increasing the thickness of the walls. For this purpose, stove makers lay out a special penetration. There is no single solution here, since much depends on the angle of the roof. That’s why this option is not very popular today - it’s hard to find a person who can competently and safely make such a penetration through the roof.

How is the question resolved then? They simply make a square or rectangular pipe, which is taken out between rafter legs, transverse beams are installed above and below the pipe. The distance between the pipe and the wooden structural elements is 13-25 cm. If the distance between the rafters is greater, additional ones are installed. In this way, we minimize the damage that we will certainly cause to the hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof: in order to remove the pipe, we will have to violate the integrity of the films and membranes. When installing the chimney, it ends up in a separate box. The films and membranes inside this box are carefully cut. The cut geometry is similar to the geometry of a pipe or box, but smaller than the dimensions of the rafter box. In the corners, the films are cut at an angle (envelope), the edges of the films are folded and fixed with staples or clamping strips to the elements of the rafter system. The edges and entry points of fasteners are sealed with adhesive tapes or sealants. This operation should be carried out carefully - the durability and reliability of the roof depends on it.

There is another option. This is possible if the temperature of the pipe in the roof area is not higher than 50 o C. In this case, the edges of the films can be glued to the pipe with sealants or the same adhesive tapes (trying to seal everything as best as possible). Now there is free space between the rafters and the brick pipe. It is laid with a heat-resistant heat insulator.

Drainage of water from joints

It is most difficult to seal the joint between a brick pipe and a roof if a rigid roofing material is used.

First, a lower apron is installed around the pipe. It is usually made of tin and consists of four elements: two sides, a top and a bottom. How to do it, see the next video. Everything is told in detail.

A so-called “tie” must be placed under the lower apron. This is a section of roofing material, a sheet of tin or galvanized metal, which will drain water to the drain (the tie should be this long - extend slightly into the drain) if the chimney is located low or into the valley, if it is closer. The following video further demonstrates the technique for installing an internal brick chimney flashing and also shows how to install a tie and external decorative flashing.

In general, as many materials as there are, there are as many ways to install a pass-through unit. Another video that demonstrates another technique for waterproofing a brick pipe. Here they use modern materials, which are produced by Ondulin manufacturers.

It is much easier to waterproof the joint between the chimney pipe and the roof, if used soft tiles or other soft flexible roofing material. On a plastered pipe, coated with impregnation for better adhesion, this material is simply bent and trimmed. You can apply a layer of sealant along the edge of the curved roofing material and secure everything using a pressure strip. The place where the roofing material is connected, the pipe and the strip are also treated with sealant. This video demonstrates the technique of sealing a chimney using soft tiles.

Passage through the roof of a round pipe

The passage unit for round pipes through the roof can be either metal or soft - rubber or silicone. Metal roof penetrations are made of galvanized iron, sometimes they are coated with protective covering, similar in color and composition to the coating of metal tiles.

Often, metal tile manufacturers offer special penetrations: this is the same sheet of roofing material to which an elastic rubber cap is attached, which serves as an excellent insulator.

For other roofing materials, flexible penetrations can be used as a roof penetration unit. There are many of them on the market today. Different colors, compositions, for different roof angles, straight penetrations, with different types fastenings (for self-tapping screws, with applied adhesive, etc.).

Among all the flexible penetrations, Master Flash has the best recommendations. It is quite easy to distinguish: in addition to the company name printed on the back side roof penetration there are additional grooves that increase the degree of fit to any roofing material. On the outside, the base along the edge has a metallized coating, with which it is easy to achieve any desired relief.

To install a flexible penetration, part of the outer cap is cut off - the diameter of the resulting hole should be less than the diameter of the pipe. The penetration is pulled onto the pipe with force. To reduce resistance, you can coat the surface of the pipe soap solution. After the penetration is tensioned, the lower flange is given the required configuration. WITH back side it is coated with sealant, then pressed against the roof and fixed with self-tapping screws. This method of sealing a round pipe is not very labor-intensive, but quite reliable.

Silicone and rubber penetrations are used at pipe temperatures up to 100 o C. If the chimney temperature is higher, you will either have to make an additional layer of insulation between the penetration and the pipe or, more likely, use a metal skirt and glass. The following video shows what they look like and how to attach them. Everything was done there not entirely correctly, but the installation principle is clear.

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting - is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a bathhouse. This is due to the high frequency of fires due to the ignition of wooden structures near chimneys, and this is exactly what the floors and ceilings in baths are like.

Safety regulations dictate the need to avoid unprotected contact between a hot pipe and flammable materials. To comply with them, when installing a chimney in a bathhouse, you need to build a special ceiling passage unit in the form of a box using fire-retardant materials, and carry it out in strict accordance with the standards.

Fire safety standards and regulations

Any developer can become familiar with what chimney equipment is considered safe according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)

We are interested in clause 6.6.22, which dictates a setback of 130 mm in the area of passage through the floors for a brick pipe made with wood protection. It is known that brick and concrete pipes have lower heat transfer than modern metal pipes, which are most often used in baths. This means that when arranging the cutting of a single-walled metal pipe without thermal protection, you should be guided by other deviation numbers that are indicated in Appendix “K”:

500 mm to wood without thermal protection;

380 mm from the heated pipe to the flammable pipe behind a layer of thermal insulation.

These figures should be considered as distances from the smoke inside the chimney to the tree.

Manufacturers of stoves and chimneys provide documentation that necessarily indicates the possible value of the distances to the ceilings from various materials. They should be used as a guide when independently constructing a passage for a bath pipe through the ceiling.

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing polyurethane foam?

Both brick, ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that create a risk of wood fire. To reliably isolate the flammable elements of the ceiling pie, you need to make a gasket made of protective materials.

Material	Description
	Slab fireproof material based on cement with the addition of limestone, mica and cellulose. Withstands constant heating up to 150 °C. When exposed to higher temperatures, the organic mineralite filler burns out and it becomes brittle.
	This general name refers to fibrous insulation, consisting of molten threads of various inorganic natures. This can be either minerals (basalt, dolomite, etc.), or blast furnace waste, slag. Slag wool does not lose its properties up to temperatures of 300°C; in a hotter environment, sintering of the fibers occurs - binders and water-repellent additives are not as resistant to fire as the mineral component. As a result, thermal conductivity increases sharply. As a fire-resistant material, it is positioned as rigid mineral slab brand PZh-175. It is capable of maintaining insulating properties up to 1000°C.
	Available in thicknesses from 2 to 10 mm. This is a material that perfectly protects against fire; it not only does not burn, but also does not smolder. Harmfulness may be considered a limitation on its use - asbestos vapors are undesirable in a bathhouse. All asbestos gaskets on the steam room side must be covered with metal.
	A highly efficient and absolutely environmentally friendly heat insulator, which belongs to the group non-combustible materials. Its thickness is 5 mm, the thermal conductivity coefficient increases slightly with increasing temperature, and it operates reliably at temperatures up to 900°C.

These are materials that can protect wooden parts from charring and fire at high temperatures in a high-heat zone. But the primary cladding of the ends of the floor, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with flammability class G1 (low flammability).

Material	Description
	It has the designation GKLO, gray sheets with red markings. It differs from the usual one by the presence of internal reinforcement with a tighter adhesion of the layers. This prevents the penetration of oxygen into the thickness of the material, combustion is not supported and even in an open fire the material does not collapse within 20 minutes.
	Only products labeled as Premium class have fireproof properties of the NG degree. A sheet of the Standard class, which is not marked in any way, cannot be used to protect wood.

The choice of thermal insulator can play a decisive role. It should be remembered that ordinary mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used for filling the passage unit, sinteres when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - while remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and can no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, it is necessary to use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000°C.

It is also safe to lay mineralite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. There is also a time-tested budget option for thermal protection - sand was used for it (the passage box was filled with it) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with a flange.

Video - How to install a chimney yourself. Calculations and drawings

Features of using a “sandwich” chimney when passing through the ceiling of a bathhouse

Modern metal sauna stoves are often complemented by steel pipes made of ferrous or stainless metal. Wanting to reduce hard IR radiation and make more safe place contact between the chimney and the ceiling above the stove, bathhouse owners use a “sandwich” - a double pipe with a thermal insulation layer.

Important! In no case should the connection of the chimney elements be at the level of the ceiling passage.

Contrary to popular belief, the outer casing of a stainless steel sandwich is not much cooler than the main chimney. This pipe design, in principle, does not serve to protect the bathhouse from fire - the sandwich provides the best conditions for stable traction, which is precisely its main task. When considering fire protection measures, one should not hope that the use of a sandwich at the passage point makes it possible to reduce the distance of indentations.

It is known that due to the burning out of volatile compounds in the pipe itself, the temperature in it increases for some time as the altitude increases. If at the level of the furnace exit the gases have a temperature of 800°C, at a level of 1.5-2 m the measurements will already show 850°C. Under these conditions, the outer casing can be heated to 300°C, as evidenced by the tarnished colors on its surface.

Wanting to heat the bathhouse faster, overheating the stove, it is easy to exceed the optimal regime for the passage of combustion products through the pipe. According to the standards of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the temperature in stainless steel chimneys should not exceed 400°C; tests for certification are carried out precisely at these values. Most steam lovers far exceed these parameters. The metal quickly burns out due to overheating, and you need to understand that the sandwich can turn into a single-walled sandwich at any moment. The insulation with which the sandwich is stuffed also does not serve as a panacea for fire. If you assemble a chimney “for smoke” and not “for moisture”, the thermal insulator heats up during combustion, and after cooling it is saturated with condensate - as a result, over time it loses its useful properties.

All of the above leads to a certain conclusion - you should not frivolously reduce the recommended margins, hoping for a protective sandwich casing.

Important: when using metal stoves and stainless steel chimneys when installing a ceiling passage, the optimal distance from the smoke to the wooden structures is 380 mm!

Stages of ceiling cutting installation

The main tasks that the builder faces when arranging the passage of a chimney through the ceiling of a bathhouse are protection from fire of the ceiling and an even vertical installation pipes. The work takes place in three stages:

determination and arrangement of the location of the cutting unit;

installation of a ready-made or self-made protective casing;

final thermal protection gasket.

These are general rules, and specific methods of work depend on many factors - the allocated budget, preferences in the choice of materials, even whether the technologies were followed during the construction of the bathhouse.

The center of the pipe passage is determined using a plumb line. The cutout is made according to the markings, slightly reducing the size of the sides so that the future decorative panel completely covers it.

A self-made passage, as a rule, is decorated on the steam room side with a sheet of metal - galvanized or stainless steel, which also serves as a heat shield. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

A vertically positioned chimney will pass through both the ceiling and the roof. When marking the chimney, you should start from the highest point and use a plumb line;

When using ready-made polyurethane foam structures, they are guided by the hole sizes recommended by the manufacturer;

By passing the chimney through the ceiling independently, without an industrially manufactured unit, a preliminary calculation of the passage duct is made. Strictly above the passage of the pipe in the ceiling pie, it is necessary to make a through hole, the dimensions of which allow the required indentations to be observed. They are calculated as follows: for example, a pipe diameter of 120 mm, a sandwich with 50 mm insulation will pass through the ceiling. The resulting outer size is 230 mm. We find the permissible distance by adding two distances of indents with internal diameter, to the smoke. According to safety standards, this is 2*380+120=880 mm.

Important! It’s good if the exact location of the sauna stove and chimney is thought out while drawing up the project. In this case, it is easy to calculate the installation of load-bearing floor beams in order to provide the necessary space for the safe passage of pipes between them.

Otherwise, the first thing you need to start work with is changing the design of the ceiling above the stove. Part of the beam that is too close to the hot chimney is cut out and strengthened by installing jumpers firmly attached to the resulting ends. Then the ceiling is covered.

Installation of a finished cutting unit - feedthrough pipe

The advantages of using a factory design are the ease of installation and the obviously aesthetic appearance of the ceiling in the steam room.

It is assumed that a sandwich will be used as a chimney when inserted into the finished polyurethane foam. The dimensions of standard devices are small to ensure reliable insulation of a single-wall chimney.

Ceiling passage units of various configurations are available for sale. The design is based on a rectangular or round section, rigidly connected to a sheet that serves both for protection from heat from below and for decorative finishing. In the center there is a cutout for the pipe; the unit is selected according to its diameter. Ready-made walk-through structures are made of metal, most often stainless steel, and mineralite, with or without a thermal insulator gasket. The best in terms of their properties are combined ones, having an internal metal box and an external mineralite box with an air fireproof layer between them.

Install the floor passage unit in this way.

The ends of the hole cut in the ceiling are covered with a layer of heat insulation, beating wood around the perimeter.

Bottom sheet devices and all places of possible contact between metal and wood are laid with a layer of non-combustible sheet material. Good ones here: mineralite, asbestos and foil basalt cardboard.

The finished structure is placed on the elbow, which will be located in the passage unit, and brought to the hole cut in the ceiling. From the steam room below, the finished unit is fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws; usually the holes for them are provided in advance by the manufacturer.

The diameter of the bore hole is always greater than the diameter of the pipe. Rigid binding is unacceptable due to thermal deformations; a gap of at least 5 mm is required. Based on what material will be used as fire protection near the pipe, a decision is made on the advisability of insulating the gap. If necessary, the pipe at the junction is wrapped with asbestos cord.

From above, on the ceiling of the attic, additional thermal insulation is carried out. The box is filled with expanded clay or fire-resistant mineral wool.

In the attic, the cutting unit is left without external finishing. If the upper floor is residential, the passage structure is decorated with a metal sheet.

Homemade pipe passage through the ceiling of a bathhouse - step-by-step instructions with photos

Necessary materials:

tin for making cutting boxes;

stainless steel sheet;

sheet of gypsum board or basalt cardboard;

The material for filling the box is expanded clay, but dry clay can also be used.

The pipe passage in this example is carried out at the stage before finishing ceiling. This is not important; the sequence of operations does not change.

Illustration	Description
	A tin box is made - a board is taken as a template for the folds, the edges are fastened with rivets. The dimensions of the box correspond to the distance between the ceiling beams, if their location was thought out taking into account the future installation of the chimney. Indents are calculated according to the standards, 380 * 2 + the diameter of the inner pipe of the sandwich.
	Using a plumb line, the center of the pipe is determined. A point is marked where the weight dropped from the ceiling hits the center of the hole for the pipe. This will be the center of the chimney and the floor passage unit. A hole is cut above the pipe. When marking it, the mineralite layer that runs along the perimeter is taken into account. After laying it, the box should sit freely on the ceiling. The ends of the hole are laid with strips of mineralite; it is enough to provide thermal insulation along the edge, where the metal will come into contact with the ceiling structure.
	The tin box does not have sufficient rigidity, and to maintain its shape, galvanized profile spacers are installed.
	A stainless steel sheet is cut. Before removal protective film fix the exact location of the hole for the pipe. The cutout diameter leaves a gap between the pipe and the hole. Additionally, a decorative shield is prepared from the same material, which will cover the joint. Using metal scissors, carefully cut out the center of the resulting circle in sectors.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a ready-made sheet of metal. The tools you will need are a jigsaw.
	Start cutting the heat-insulating gasket under the sheet. The template for it is a ready-made sheet of metal. The tools you will need are a jigsaw. Insert the box into place and cover the hole with a stainless steel sheet. To make sure that the ceiling in the area adjacent to the box will not char or catch fire, this is done through a thermal protection sheet. The decorative overlay is attached to the sheet. As a result, a reliable and beautiful screen is obtained above the stove near the chimney.
	The last stage The work on constructing a passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse will be the thermal insulation of the pipe in the box. To do this, refractory material is poured into it to the very top. Experience shows that both sand and clay have been successfully used for these purposes. But since the dimensions of the box are not too small, preference should be given to lighter expanded clay.

To ensure comfort and safety in a room with a stove structure, it is necessary to correctly make the passage of the chimney through the ceiling. Fire safety is ensured by simple pipe installation rules. All work can be done with your own hands.

To exhaust the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a unit that provides the required distance from the ceiling materials to the pipe. These rules are regulated by a special document, which specifies certain recommendations:

The distance from the surface of a concrete or brick chimney to the battens or rafters must be at least 13 centimeters.
If the chimney is ceramic and without insulation, then the distance should be as follows: minimum 25 cm. And if there is a heat-insulating layer - 13 cm.

When installing beams, these rules must be taken into account. Their step should be about 60 cm. These recommendations apply to pipes with a layer of insulation.

The outlet pipe must have a diameter 11.5-12 cm. If a sandwich with a heat-insulating layer is laid through the ceiling, then the pipe should have a diameter of about 32 cm. On each side it is necessary to observe a distance of at least 13 cm. To calculate the distance between installed beams, you need 13 x 2 + 32, the result is 58 cm, which corresponds to the recommended 60 cm.

You can also calculate the distance of the pipe without insulation. If a pipe with an internal diameter of 11.5 cm., then the distance to the ceiling material should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there should be a distance between the beams 25 x 2 + 11.5, which equals 61.5 cm. This step is recommended for use when constructing a ceiling.

If the partition is protected from possible fire, then when chimney thickness 12 cm, the distance should be about 26 cm. If the pipe is 5 cm thick, then the distance is 38 cm.
If the partition is not protected from fire, then in the first case the distance can reach 32 cm, and in the case of the second option - up to 50 cm.

The document also states that you need to maintain a certain distance from the walls. Often the chimney pipe is installed near the surface of the wall, which over time can lead to a fire, since the temperature inside the chimney can be 500 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to lay a heat-insulating layer on the surface of the wall with your own hands, and then cover it metal sheet.

Types of nodes

The passage of the chimney through the wooden ceiling must be protected from high temperatures and the pipe must be secured in a special position. This is what cutting is intended for; its second name is “passage unit”.

It is recommended to use the device industrial production. It represents a special metal box, is attached to it on one side galvanized plate. There is a hole in the middle for inserting a sandwich. A special plate is installed on the side of the room, which covers the hole in the ceiling and acts as a decorative element. The plate also serves as a support for the heat-insulating layer, which is laid in the gap between the beam and the surface of the pipe.

Many experts claim that stainless steel cutting is the best option, since galvanized sheet under the influence of high temperatures emits harmful substances. Therefore, it is recommended to use stainless steel in a living room or bathhouse.

The ceiling unit is installed quite simply. If at the construction stage it was not planned to remove the chimney, then a hole of a certain size must be made between the beams so that the chimney can be installed. Then secure the heat insulator. To do this, you can use mineralite, stone wool or asbestos. Experts also recommend fixing metal strips.

A special device must be placed on the pipe in a straight section that passes through the ceiling. Then it needs to be raised to the required level and a thermal insulation layer secured around the edges. After this, the assembly is secured using self-tapping screws.

Products may have different configurations. In some cases, you may need a metal cylinder that fits around the hole and plate edges advocate for him a little. It should be noted that when installing such a device, the hole must also have square shape. The hole is closed using a plate. Should also be protected ceiling materials from high temperatures using a heat insulator.

The unit may be without a cylinder, but it is installed around the perimeter special sides made of mineralite or metal. The edges of the device must be covered with a thermal insulation layer. It is recommended to use mineralite, as it acts as a heat insulator.

Passage through the ceiling

When venting the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

There should be a metal pipe coming out of the oven without a heat insulator. Its length should be more than one meter, since the output is too high temperature. Above you can use a sandwich.
Where it passes through the ceiling, the pipe must have a protected sheath. To do this, you can use an industrial sandwich or insulate the walls yourself.
Joints are allowed only before or after the passage. Therefore, all connections need to be monitored.
The horizontal section can have a maximum length of one meter.
The entire chimney can have a maximum of three elbows.
It is prohibited to use a rigid fastening, since under the influence of high temperature the dimensions of the chimney change.

Selecting a thermal insulator

When the device is fixed to the ceiling, you need to go up to the next floor or attic to fill the distance between the beams and the chimney with heat insulation.

If the temperature in the pipe does not exceed 600 degrees, then you can use basalt wool as an insulator. However, some experts do not recommend using this option. They explain this by the fact that during the manufacturing process they use resins as a binder, and they release harmful formaldehyde under the influence of high temperatures. In addition, it forms in the chimney condensate, and when wet, the thermal protection characteristics of cotton wool deteriorate. Therefore, this option is not the best.

You can fill the gap with fine expanded clay. This is a lightweight and natural material that, if wet, quickly restores its characteristics.

Until recently, sand was most often used. But in this case there is one significant drawback: over time, the material spills out through small cracks, so the stove must be constantly cleaned and the gap must be filled again.

You can use clay. To do this, it must be diluted so that it acquires a paste-like consistency.

Some experts do not recommend insulating the unit at all and leaving it unfilled. This allows you to avoid burnout of the chimney and its overheating. But this option is not the best, since wood will dry out over time, and there is a risk of fire.

Every person who decides to build a bathhouse with his own hands must decide in advance how to install a pipe in the bathhouse through the roof - that is, a chimney. The structure of the chimney, its installation and other nuances will be discussed in this article.

Installing the exhaust pipe structure in a bathhouse does not require special skills, so this process There should be no difficulties, and even a novice builder should be able to cope with this. The main thing is to be very careful, patient, and not ignore the recommendations of experienced specialists while performing construction work, taking into account all the nuances.

Bath chimney design

Before installing a pipe in a bathhouse, you need to study in detail all the issues relating to the types of chimney pipes, their design and how to properly carry out the installation process, and then operate it.

Only if all these issues are studied can you be absolutely sure that the work done will be of high quality, and the chimney can last as long as possible.

Types of chimneys

Bath chimneys are classified according to the following two parameters:

Depending on the material used, chimneys can be made of brick or metal.

Brick chimneys are classified as traditional version, and are distinguished by the fact that they are very long and difficult to install, but the result is a fairly strong and durable structure with high thermal insulation characteristics.

A bathhouse equipped with a brick hood is best protected from accidental fires. The disadvantages include the fact that due to the presence of irregularities on the inside of the walls, soot accumulates over time, which impairs draft, which requires periodic cleaning of the chimney.

Unlike brick, metal pipe It’s easy to install through the ceiling and roof in a bathhouse. In addition, in this case you will have to spend less financial resources, since the material costs much less. The negative side is that condensation inevitably accumulates on a steel pipe, so thermal insulation of such a chimney is mandatory.

According to their placement, chimneys are:

The most common is considered internal type, the positive quality of which is the possibility of additional heating of the interior of the bathhouse. This significantly reduces the heating time of the bath, and also saves money on fuel. However, the internal type of chimney requires careful and labor-intensive maintenance, in addition, it is difficult to install.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling in a bathhouse of this type involves partial cutting of the ceiling in the bathhouse along with the roof, and further thermal insulation of the pipe. A number of disadvantages include the risk of fire and smoke in the interior of the bathhouse due to the appearance of a crack in the chimney.

The external option for installing a chimney originates from America, and is now becoming more and more popular. This type a chimney means venting it outside, which greatly reduces the chance of an uncontrolled fire, and maintenance becomes much easier.

TO negative aspects can be attributed to the fact that external installation will require organizing sufficient additional insulation. These measures will help preserve the transferred heat, avoid creating additional heating for the steam room and save some of the fuel.

What is a pipe

The design of the chimney is determined by the material of its manufacture and location. For example, if you plan to install a brick stove, then an exhaust pipe made of ceramic or brick will fit it. For steel furnaces Steel and ceramic pipes can be used.

To better understand how to properly remove a pipe in a bathhouse, you need to keep in mind that there are prefabricated stoves that are easy to maintain, and the process of installing them does not require special skills. As a rule, composite structures have 2-3 pipes, 2 elbows, a drainage system, gates, tees, adapters and deflectors. This design is attached support brackets and clamps.

The chimney insulation consists of a sandwich pipe and an adapter having a larger diameter than the main pipe. The insulation layers in such pipes consist of basalt wool or expanded clay.

Pipe structure and its features

Due to the design features of the chimney, before installing the pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances. Because the temperature in the bathhouse is very high, the bathhouse is made of wood, and sanitary standards must be adhered to, the list of installation work will depend partly on these factors.

The following rules must be observed:

It is prohibited to use aluminum or asbestos cement pipes as chimney pipes. Suitable: stainless or galvanized steel, ceramics or brick.
When deciding how to make a pipe through the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material. It must be non-flammable and environmentally friendly. Basalt wool, expanded clay, and reflective foil material are suitable.
It is worth making sure that all elements of the chimney structure have sufficient clearance with the wooden walls and roof. To ensure the best safety, it is worth taking care of metal cladding of all surfaces surrounding the structure, that is, the stove and boiler. A box for steel pipes is installed in the ceilings, which will subsequently be filled with expanded clay.
Quite often they use sandwich pipes, which have high fire safety.
To seal all the cracks between the pipe and the box and obtain reliable fastening, you can use aluminum tape or foil.

Chimney shape and dimensions

When assembling a chimney, it is very important to adhere to a number of rules that determine its shape and size. Most often, the smoke exhaust pipe is made in the shape of a cylinder. The most important thing is to choose the correct diameter and height of the pipe.

The diameter of the pipe is usually determined by the power of the installed furnace. For example, for a square or rectangular furnace with a power of up to 3.5 kW, the hole dimensions should be 140x140 mm, and for furnaces with a power of 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.

If the smoke exhaust passage is round, then it must correspond to the size of the hole in the stove or boiler.

It is worth noting that the pipe area should be 8 cm 2 for each kilowatt of power. This means that for a 20 kW stove, the chimney size should be 160 cm 2, or 140 mm in diameter.

The height of the chimney is determined based on the height of the structure and the type of roof. When designing a chimney, it is very important to correctly adjust the height of the pipe above the roof. For example, if the pipe is located 150 cm from the ridge, then the height of the pipe should not exceed 50 centimeters.

If the distance is between 150 and 300 cm, then the pipe can be level with the ridge, but if this distance is more than 300 cm, the pipe should barely rise above the ridge. If the roof is flat, then the height of the chimney pipe is 100 cm.

Work on installing pipes in a bathhouse

Before you remove the pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling, you should study the sequence of installation work.

The step-by-step instructions will be as follows:

Holes measuring 45x45 cm are cut in the ceiling and roof.
Next, two steel plates of 50 cm each are cut out - with their help the chimney will be fixed.
Holes for fastening are drilled in the prepared plates in the corners.
A round hole is made in the center of one of the plates.
The other plate is intended for fastening to the roof slope; an oval-shaped hole is made in it.
A galvanized casing is placed on pre-insulated pipes located indoors.
The ends are closed with rings, and the edges on the outside of the tube are folded.
The insulated lower end of the smoke exhaust pipe is inserted into the round hole of one of the steel plates, and the non-insulated end is put on the pipe.
The steel sheet is fixed to the ceiling, and it is important to ensure that the gaps on all sides are the same.
Using a pre-welded pipe, the upper pipe is placed on the lower pipe, securing them with a clamp.
A second steel plate is attached to the inside of the roof.
The space between the pipe and the wooden elements is covered with clay or filled with expanded clay.
Where the pipe passes through the roof, a moisture-repellent layer is laid and a seal is laid.
After this, a cap is placed on the pipe to protect it from precipitation.

Pipe cleaning methods

The degree of blockage of the smoke exhaust passage can be judged by the appearance of smoke and an unpleasant odor inside the room; in addition, draft deteriorates. At this point, it is highly recommended to clean the pipe yourself. Often, to do this, it is enough to heat the stove with a special type of firewood, or resort to using a special tool.

There are times when you need to resort to a mechanical cleaning method. You will need a special scraper and a brush with stiff bristles and a link handle. Cleaning the chimney begins from the roof, which entails the entry of a large volume of soot into the room. Therefore, experts advise covering the firebox with thick fabric, closing all doors and windows, and covering the furniture.

There is a simpler cleaning method - with aspen firewood. They generate a lot of heat, which increases draft - the pipe self-cleanses. It is recommended to clean such firewood once a year.

Cleaning can also be done with chemicals, but this, of course, can lead to environmental pollution.

In this article, we decided on how to make a pipe pass through the ceiling of a bathhouse. This process is very simple, but requires special attention and accuracy from the master. Ignoring shortcomings in construction work often leads to subsequent smoke entering the bathhouse and other troubles.

If you nevertheless decide to build a chimney with your own hands, consult with specialists first, so that, having acquired knowledge, you can install the pipe correctly and ensure the subsequent functioning of the bathhouse at the highest level.

How to install a pipe in a bathhouse: how to make a chimney pass through the ceiling, how to remove it through the roof correctly, installation, cutting the ceiling, photos and videos

How to make a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling: 4 important conditions

Proper pipe outlet through the ceiling is the key to the safety and longevity of your bath Many modern baths heated with wood or coal. In order for the smoke to escape unhindered, you need a pipe that will also allow you to get rid of other combustion products. You can build the furnace yourself. It is important to pay close attention to the pipe outlet. It must be safe and functional. How to make a pipe in a bathhouse through a chimney can be read in this article.

Drawing up a project: what you should pay attention to

Before proceeding with the manufacture and installation of the pipe, it is necessary to determine the required quantity of materials and their quality. Drawing up a plan will allow you to calculate the required number, and will also help you visualize the future structure. The pipe structure is quite complex.

There is an interesting technique for constructing a pipe: making a pipe in two parts. Cutting the pipe ensures its functionality.

It is recommended to install not a simple umbrella on the top of the pipe, but a deflector to enhance traction

In the future, this will help you easily replace the lower burnt part of the pipe with a new one, without completely disassembling the structure. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the stove outlet pipe to the ridge on the roof. Add 50 cm to the resulting size.

Measure the height from floor to ceiling.
Determine the overall height of the device.
Determine the middle of the attic.
Leave reserves for the bottom and top of the pipe.

It is important to remember that the chimney should extend beyond the ridge by half a meter. And the bottom of the pipe should have a margin of 10-15 cm. This will ensure the normal position of the pipe, taking into account the connection with the stove pipe.

Pipe outlet features

The exhaust smoke from the stove has a high temperature. This can be used to create additional heating in the room. However, you should follow safety precautions and make sure that the pipe does not overheat too much.

Overheating of the chimney can lead to a fire in the ceiling. This cannot be allowed.

When installing a chimney, it is important to choose the highest quality and proven materials

The lower part of the pipe should not be insulated. This will ensure that the air in the room is heated. But the upper part should be insulated with fireproof material.

It is important to ensure that safety precautions are not compromised in any part of the installation.
Pay special attention to the installation and insulation of the upper part of the pipe.
The pipe must be removed using the technique of installing two pipes.

It is important to be very careful when installing the pipe. It should be installed in such a way that you get maximum benefit from it, but do not expose yourself to a fire hazard.

How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling

The chimney assembly must be safe. This is a fundamental factor in pipe output. The chimney will function correctly if you install it responsibly.

Failure to follow instructions may result in the sauna catching fire, which can have catastrophic consequences.

After leaving the furnace, you need to install only a thick-walled metal pipe without insulation, the height of which must be at least a meter

To prevent a fire from occurring, and to help the chimney retain heat and remove smoke, you must follow professional advice. There are standards that all building owners must adhere to. Calculations must be made accurately, otherwise the pipe installation process may not be completed.

Rules for installing the structure:

The height of the pipe should not be more than 5 m.
The pipes should not be smaller than the passage of the steam chamber in the furnace.
The height of the stove should exceed the roof by 50 cm.

Horizontal and sloping areas the chimney cannot exceed a meter. The pipe must be equipped with a spark arrester. Such simple rules are not difficult to follow, but they will ensure the safety and functionality of the bathhouse.

Pipe insulation in the bathhouse ceiling

The chimney is a great danger, since a fire is constantly lit in the bathhouse. In order for the pipe to be safe, it must be properly insulated. You can insulate the pipe yourself.

Before you begin insulation work, you should study the rules and instructions from professionals to help ensure safety.

Teploizol perfectly withstands high temperatures and is suitable for insulating bath pipes

In order to insulate the pipe, clay, asbestos and other materials are used. Insulation material must be heat resistant. It should not ignite due to high temperature.

Materials for pipe insulation:

Metal sheets are not suitable for fire insulation. This is a common misconception that often leads to fires.
Red brick can be used as an option. However, it takes up a lot of space, which is not suitable for every area in the bathhouse.
Thermal insulation This is foamed polyethylene that can withstand high temperatures and does not ignite.
Folgoizol. This is an environmentally friendly material. It is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and high temperature.

All materials are of high quality and provide reliable protection from fires. The denser the material, the better it can withstand high temperatures. Folgisol is considered a very modern and high-quality material. It consists of foil, which helps keep the room warm.

The pipe in the bath should be done very carefully. Many factors that affect the functionality of the room depend on its quality. The pipe helps rid the room of smoke, while giving off additional heat. It is important to pay attention to the design of the pipe. Particular attention should be paid to the removal of the pipe from the ceiling. Poor quality pipe insulation can lead to fire, as it involves heating the material to very high temperatures. To prevent this from happening, the most modern fire-resistant materials should be used for insulation.

How to make a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling: how to remove and install it yourself, roof insulation, cutting and passage

Not everyone knows how to make a pipe through the ceiling in a bathhouse. The pipe in the bathhouse must be made taking into account fire safety techniques, and also create maximum draft.

What does installing a pipe in a bathhouse look like?

Before installation, remember one important nuance. There are certain installation standards and rules for constructing a box in the ceiling. They must be followed clearly and impeccably.

An incorrectly positioned pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling and roof is a serious violation of fire safety rules. The consequences can be different, even a severe fire. But if you provide good thermal insulation, visiting the bathhouse will become an absolutely safe activity. Due to numerous requests from readers, we decided to write an article about how to make a chimney and what standards must be followed. Let's start with useful tips.

What does a novice stove maker need to know?

Especially for you, we have made a selection of current recommendations that will give you an idea of do-it-yourself installation. So let's get started!

When you install a pipeline in a bathhouse, installing a stove ceiling box is a mandatory procedure. It promotes uniform distribution of heat that comes from the pipe, eliminating the possibility of fire.
Which the material is suitable for insulation? The use of mineral wool, foam glass, and expanded clay is allowed. Earth and sand are unlikely to work. Because of high coefficient heat capacity, the materials will retain heat, but in our situation this is not necessary.
It is desirable that the chimney in the bathhouse has a height of 4-5 meters when assembled. Usually it is placed closer to the wall of the room. Because the wood trim is very close, you should take care of a protective screen.
GOST rules are as follows. The distance from the pipe to the beam is at least 13 centimeters. The diameter of the pipe with additional insulation is 32-33 centimeters. The distance between the beams is from 60 cm. If you install a ceramic pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, the distance should be at least 25 cm on each side.
We always make a metal outlet from the stove made of thick, fire-resistant material. Even stainless steel will not work - it will not be able to withstand such prolonged exposure to high temperatures. Height – at least one meter.
Extraction of the chimney excludes the use of more than three elbows (bends).
Where the structure passes through the ceiling, we recommend using a sandwich pipe. The range of such products in stores is quite diverse. You can find products with insulation thickness from 3 to 10 centimeters or more. Take the “ten” - it’s reliable and safe.

Choosing a reliable material for thermal insulation

High-quality covering is impossible without the use of such materials:

Mineral or basalt wool. Withstands heating up to 600 degrees. The main disadvantages are that it contains formaldehyde and loses its protective properties after getting wet.
Expanded clay. Even when wet it retains its beneficial properties. Arrangement effective thermal insulation impossible without installing additional containers.
Minerite. Like basalt wool, it can heat up to 600 degrees, but does not emit harmful substances and does not lose its properties in a humid environment. Minerite contains cellulose, cement, and mineral fillers.
Asbestos. It is considered a good insulating material, although it can also release hazardous substances when heated strongly.
Clay and sand. They were used until more modern insulation materials appeared.

We can conclude that among the insulation materials listed above, mineralite is considered the most optimal.

Diagram of a typical chimney

The installation will become clearer when you know what elements the chimney consists of. There are usually nine of them:

Bake. It heats water, heats the room, and produces steam.
Minerite panel with stainless steel screen. Located behind the stove, it protects the walls from fire.
A convector chimney is located directly above the stove. It serves to remove heat.
Shiber. Regulates traction.
Starting adapter. Located at the top, it provides a transition from a single-wall pipe to a sandwich.
Now we've reached the ceiling. This is where the ceiling-passage assembly is installed with your own hands. It is a kind of passage through wall and ceiling coverings.
Chimney sandwich, which was already mentioned above. Protects the structure from condensation and serves as additional thermal protection.
Master flush. You can also build it yourself. Tightly seals the pipe passage through the ceiling in a rooftop bathhouse.
The final element of the chimney is the head.

How to avoid burnout?

Even with correct cutting, it is not always possible to avoid overheating. The pipe heats up to extreme temperatures, and the likelihood of burning increases.

There are several ways to protect the structure and minimize damage:

"Water jacket". It is done directly on the chimney. The heated water can be used for showering. Effective, but not easy to build. You will need to install a remote tank and water supply. But the temperature above the water jacket will be low, and any burnout is excluded.
Samovar type tank. A simplified option, thanks to which the water will also heat up. It is important to drain it in time or add cold water, avoiding boiling.
Mesh for stones. The advantage of this method is that the stones dry the air very well. Difficulties may arise only with finding reliable support, since the stones weigh a lot.

Using any of the above methods will significantly reduce the temperature of the pipe. However, you can try air cooling. The heat-insulated pipe will need to be fitted with the same one, but of a larger diameter. A grille is constructed at the top and bottom, ensuring free air inflow and outflow.

Ceiling cutting yourself: how to do it?

How to remove a pipe in a bathhouse with your own hands, without resorting to the help of specialists, without using factory components?

Let's look at the workflow step by step:

Prepare a stainless steel sheet to cover the hole. To do this you need to measure and cut right size. Please note that the metal circle should be approximately 0.2 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. If you plan to install a sandwich type chimney, the diameter of the circle is slightly larger outside diameter sandwich.
A hole is cut under the pipe in the ceiling area.
Along the perimeter, its edges are sealed with cotton wool, and metal in the form of strips is stuffed on top of the insulator.
Now we need to make a chimney for the bath through the ceiling. The first step is to install a single-wall pipe on the stove. You need to put a stainless steel square with a hole already cut on it, and then install the sandwich.
The removed piece of pipe is always positioned vertically. To secure it from the attic side, we recommend using metal strips. It is not difficult to secure them in the desired position. Please note that the strips act as guides, while the chimney itself does not need fastening. It is necessary that it moves freely, because as the metal cools, it will change its size.
The insulator layer is laid from the side of the room. The required amount of material is placed between the plate and the ceiling. Use self-tapping screws to secure the plate. We drill holes in advance: 4 along the edges, as well as 1-2 on each side.
We must insulate the resulting passage - and the cutting is ready.

A do-it-yourself version of a pipe in the ceiling of a bathhouse is not a fantasy and not an extremely difficult task. This procedure is available to everyone and will not cause difficulties. The main thing is to comply with all regulations and strictly follow the instructions.

Installing a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling and roof: diagram of the correct chimney

A common problem is that the ceiling has been installed, the stove has been purchased, but you forgot to install the holes. How to properly install a pipe in a bathhouse through a closed ceiling?

How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling with your own hands

When designing a bathhouse, it is important to provide a well-equipped chimney so that combustion products can easily leave the room without creating a danger for those steaming. How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling correctly with your own hands, step by step? We will consider this issue in this article.

One of the options for venting the chimney is to vent it through the ceiling space and roof. This option is more reliable and durable.

To make such a chimney, you can use different types materials, but, in any case, it is necessary to follow the rules of finishing technology.

Today, several types of chimney pipes are used:

pipe made of stainless steel or black metal sheet with thick walls;

double-walled pipe with a layer of fireproof insulation (sandwich pipe);

chimney brickwork.

Increasingly, people are beginning to pay attention to more expensive options for chimney finishing, preferring reliability and safety. Conventional metal chimneys can cause a fire in the room, while a brick pipe or sandwich chimney reliably protects the bathhouse from fire.

Rules for installing a chimney pipe

There are several rules that should be followed when installing a chimney:

Before installation, it is important to carefully plan its location;
the section of pipe located horizontally from the furnace to the insert should not be more than 1 meter;
a metal pipe must have a gap of at least 1.5 m to flammable finishing elements;
the chimney should be installed so that its cut does not fall on the leeward zone. This will significantly reduce the force of natural traction;
In the gas duct, provision should be made for cleaning the pipe, including from condensate.

Professionals also advise protecting the single-wall pipe with a layer of thermal insulation material.

Basalt fiber is most often used for this. From the outside, the insulation layer is covered with a casing made of galvanized steel. This will prevent condensation from forming and protect the attic from fire.

Stages of installing chimneys in the ceiling

Conventionally, the process of installing a chimney pipe in the ceiling space can be divided into several stages.

Stage 1: Design

First you need to draw up a detailed plan for the location of the chimney.

It is important that the chimney is located conveniently for steamers and is not located too close to load-bearing beams and rafters, as well as provide the necessary clearance to flammable finishing materials.

Stage 2: Purchase of a chimney and necessary materials

At the design stage, it is also worth deciding what type of chimney will be installed in your bathhouse. Once the choice is made, you can safely go shopping. Don’t forget to also check with the consultants in the store what Additional materials will be needed to install the chimney.

Stage 3: Marking the ceiling surface for the chimney opening

In order to correctly determine the location of the future chimney, you will need a construction kit, with which we mark the place where the pipe outlet from the stove should be located.

Stage 4: Cut a hole for the pipe

Using the markings made earlier, we make a hole in the ceiling surface for the future chimney. It’s not scary if the hole is a couple of centimeters larger than it should be.

WITH inside the gaps will be closed with a special box, and on the attic side it will be possible to insulate the gaps with stone wool or other suitable material.

Stage 5: Marking the roof for the pipe

This is an equally important stage of work, which involves marking the roof surface for the chimney. The fact is that the roof surface usually has a slope. Accordingly, the greater the roof slope, the larger the area of the hole cut for the chimney should be.

Stage 6: Preparing the hole in the roof

The hole in the roof is cut out in the shape of an oval, and the greater the slope, the larger the area of the oval. To close the hole from the street side, special rubber seals are subsequently used.

When choosing a sealant, it is very important to consider the slope of the roof.

Stage 7: Installation of the chimney

When choosing a metal chimney you must:

maintain a distance from wooden structures (40 - 50 cm) to avoid fire in the room;
in the area of the ceiling passage and in the attic space, the pipe must be wrapped in a sheet of asbestos, which can prevent overheating of materials close to the pipe.

The asbestos sheet is pre-moistened in water to avoid cracks and breaks when wrapping, and is also wrapped with wire on top to prevent the material from slipping.

In a steam room, the resulting hole is covered with a thin metal sheet or asbestos to reduce heat transfer between the chimney and the finish. On top of the metal sheet you can fill it with expanded clay or put basalt insulation.

A rubber seal is not suitable for closing a hole in the roof, as it will not withstand high temperatures. A sheet of metal should be used, which is laid over the hole, and the resulting cracks should be sealed with rope asbestos, generously soaked in cement mortar.

Sandwich chimney

The easiest to install would be a sandwich chimney, which is easy to install and ensures the fire safety of the building.

Sandwich pipes usually consist of several metal sheets, between which fire-resistant material is laid.

a unit is installed on the roof of the bathhouse to tightly fix the chimney pipe;
the pipe is installed in the prepared hole in the roof;
the space formed between the sandwich pipe and pipes of larger diameter is filled with sand or expanded clay;
if using a larger pipe is undesirable, you should use a box for sandwich pipes, the cavity of which is also filled with expanded clay;

It is important to maintain the interval from the sandwich pipe to the finishing materials. Under no circumstances should they touch each other so as not to create a fire hazard.

Brick chimney

The most reliable and preferable, but also quite expensive, design is a brick chimney. Before installing it, you need to carefully plan everything, not forgetting the fact that installing such a chimney in small baths is impractical.

a hole is made for the pipe, the diameter of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20 cm;
then the chimney is brought out through the roof surface and insulated with a metal sheet;
the structure is sealed by placing the edge of the metal sheet under the roof;
then to installed pipe a metal umbrella is attached to protect it from moisture;
The final finishing of the chimney is to apply heat-resistant paint to it, which will protect the metal parts from corrosion.

Having completed the installation outside, we proceed to installation inside the steam room.

First, the box is insulated with basalt and lined with foil insulator, and the first chimney element adjacent to the stove is installed.

Then the second chimney link is installed, and the box is filled with expanded clay. Afterwards, all remaining segments are fixed, and a metal umbrella is installed.

This completes the work on installing the chimney through the ceiling. As you can see, this is not such a complicated step-by-step procedure, which, however, requires certain theoretical knowledge and professional experience.

In any case, with a little desire, you can do this work yourself, without the help of professionals.

How to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling

A stove pipe for a bathhouse must not only remove smoke well, but also be designed in such a way that the likelihood of a fire is reduced to zero. In addition, a good chimney retains heat well - in this case, the high temperature in the steam room will be maintained for a long time, and you will be able to save on fuel.

How to make a pipe pass through the ceiling

The main types of chimneys for baths

Types of chimneys by material of manufacture

Internal and external chimneys

Brick chimney for a bathhouse

To get a high-quality brick chimney, it is very important to build the masonry correctly. This is a rather labor-intensive process that takes a lot of time.

However, a brick pipe has important advantages:

it is stronger and more durable than metal;
brick accumulates heat well and has excellent thermal insulation properties;
a bathhouse with a brick chimney will be better protected from fire.

Since a brick chimney has all these advantages, this option is still worth paying attention to. There is nothing truly complicated about building a brick pipe for a bathhouse.

Features of building a brick chimney

But you need to keep in mind that brick chimneys also have a serious drawback. Soot deposits settle on the inner surface of such a pipe, since it has roughness and corners. Due to the accumulation of this soot, the draft begins to decrease over time, and the bathhouse warms up worse. If the inner surface of the chimney is clogged too much, this can lead to smoke in the bathhouse, and soot inside the pipe can ignite.

However, solving this problem is quite simple - you just need to clean the pipe in a timely manner. The cleaning process does not take much time, and this procedure does not have to be carried out often.

Brick chimney - strengths and weaknesses

Features of a metal chimney

Metal chimneys, types

The best option for constructing a metal chimney is to use sandwich pipes. They are a three-layer structure:

inner pipe;
a layer of thermal insulation located on top of it;
outer pipe.

Sandwich pipe for chimney, structure

The sandwich pipe has two very important advantages:

it doesn't get too hot outside, so it can't spoil wooden floors, in addition, its use will reduce the risk of fire to a minimum;
thanks to the three-layer design with a heat insulator inside the chimney, condensation will not form in the cold season;
Also, due to the presence of insulation, the high temperature in the room is maintained much better, however, such pipes are significantly inferior in this characteristic to brick chimneys.

Sandwich chimney installation diagram

In general, the main advantages of a metal chimney for a bath include:

ease of installation - assembling such a structure will take much less time and effort than laying a brick pipe;
smooth inner surface - soot and soot will settle on it in minimal quantities, smoke will flow outward in a directed flow, and draft will be good;
low cost - especially if you do not use ready-made sandwich pipes, but make them yourself.

Condensation appears on the inner surface of a metal chimney in the event of a sudden temperature change. The use of sandwich pipes allows you to reduce this problem to a minimum. To further reduce it, you need to use pipes with as thick a layer of thermal insulation as possible.

Sandwich chimney sizes

Note! It is best to make a metal chimney consisting of two main parts. In this option, a regular single-layer pipe should extend from the stove; it will heat the interior space. Sandwich pipes are placed on top of it, and they are the ones that will go further out. An important advantage of this option is its low cost: the fact is that the pipe located near the stove heats up more, so it quickly becomes unusable. When this happens, it can be replaced without having to buy a new sandwich pipe.

Chimney for a bath

External chimney

In this option, the chimney does not pass through the ceiling - it is vented outside through the wall and then goes up. This design has significant advantages, including:

External chimney for bathhouse

During its construction, there will be no need to install isolated passages in the attic and roof. In this case, the risk of water getting inside the room will be minimized, since there will be no gaps between the pipe and the roof covering.

However, moisture condenses quite quickly in such a chimney. To minimize the problem, the pipe must be very well insulated. Another disadvantage of an external chimney is that, being outside the room, it does not warm up the interior of the bathhouse. As a result, fuel consumption increases significantly.

On the left is the internal chimney, and on the right is the external

Internal chimney

In this option, which we will consider in this article, the chimney rises from the stove to the ceiling and then goes outside. This design will be best for capital construction, which is designed for long-term operation. Making it a little more difficult, but it’s still worth doing if you want to really get good result. If the chimney is constructed according to all the rules, it will last for many years without any problems.

Internal chimney made of stainless steel

The pipe stores heat well and warms the interior space of the bathhouse and the attic, in addition, the stove cools longer, so you can save on fuel - this important advantage internal chimney. The only significant disadvantages of the design include the higher outer pipe for smoke removal, fire hazard. However, if everything is done correctly and all recommendations are followed, the likelihood of an emergency will be reduced to almost zero, and you won’t have to worry about a fire.

High-quality insulation will prevent accidental fire

Safety

When building a chimney in a bathhouse, you first need to think about safety issues. After all, if something is done incorrectly, wooden structures can catch fire very easily. The problem must be approached carefully, then the bathhouse will last a really long time, and there will be no risk to people’s lives.

All necessary requirements requirements that chimneys must meet are established by the relevant sanitary rules and regulations. They specify the distance that must be maintained between the pipe and flammable parts of the roof slabs. This value depends on the pipe parameters. If you are planning to make a chimney in a bathhouse, you should familiarize yourself with SNiP 41-01-2003, which approves the rules for the installation of ventilation, heating and air conditioning. In this case, pay special attention to paragraph 6.6.22, which contains all the necessary information.

SNiP 41-01-2003. File for download

To ensure that the chimney is completely safe, you need to use appropriate materials for thermal insulation:

Non-flammable mineral wool with long service life

Fire-resistant plasterboard and glass-magnesium sheet are also suitable for this purpose.

Fire-resistant drywall can withstand exposure to direct fire for about an hour

Glass-magnesium (glass-magnesite) sheet (SML), moisture-resistant, fire-resistant, frost-resistant, environmentally friendly

You need to pay attention to some other points. So, it is important to choose the right materials from which the chimney itself will be made - they must be resistant to high temperatures. For example, if you decide to use a metal pipe to construct a chimney, it must be made of non-galvanized material. The fact is that when heated to high temperatures, zinc begins to evaporate, and its evaporation is extremely harmful to health.

Brick chimney installation

If you do not have extensive experience in creating brick chimneys, it is better not to take risks and choose a simple, standard, time-tested design option.

Rules for constructing a brick chimney

Such a chimney consists of five main parts:

top pipe with valve - that part of the chimney that goes directly from the stove;
fluff - expansion of the chimney by 30-40 cm, which begins 5-6 rows to the ceiling;
riser - part of the chimney that goes into the attic;
otter - an expanded part that prevents precipitation from entering the cracks between the roof covering and the pipe itself;
neck with head - top part chimney.

You can install a cap or deflector on top of the neck, which will protect the pipe from rain, snow and debris. This design will also improve traction.

Elements of a brick chimney

Fireproof or ordinary solid bricks are suitable for constructing the pipe. They can be placed on a composition made from a mixture of cement and sand or cement and lime. In the area where the temperature will be highest, refractory clay should be used. To prepare such a composition, you need to take fireclay powder and dilute it with water and sand in a large container; a 10-15-liter tank is perfect for this. The consistency of the ready-to-use solution should be such that it does not flow from the trowel and does not stick to it, but slowly slides off without leaving marks.

Brick pipe laying

Brick chimney laying

Step 1. First of all, find or prepare it yourself detailed diagram masonry

Scheme for choosing the height of the chimney

Step 2. Then make a foundation for the stove from brick or reinforced concrete, and build the heater itself. The height of the foundation should be at least 30-40 cm, and the width should be 15-20 cm greater than the width of the chimney.

Step 3. After this, build the chimney itself, sequentially making all its parts - the top pipe, the fluff, the riser, the otter and the neck with the cap. In this case, you need to install a valve in the top pipe.

Chimney laying technology. Section, materials

Self-laying a brick chimney

Step 4. In areas where the chimney passes through the ceiling and through the roof, cut and lay one of the insulation materials listed above.

Brick pipe passing through the ceiling

Chimney on the roof

Step 5. If the chimney is located near a wall, it should be fixed to increase the reliability and durability of the structure. Fasteners can be installed every 30 cm.

Step 6. It is better to finish the inner surface of the pipe with plaster. Thanks to this, it will become smooth, as a result, much less soot will settle on its walls. Also, after completing the main work, you can whitewash the outside of the chimney.

Step 7 The last upper section of the chimney, which rises above the roof level, must be insulated and then installed finishing. For this you can use facing bricks.

To get a high-quality result, carefully monitor the thickness of the seams. They should be the same throughout the entire length of the pipe. Optimal thickness such a seam when constructing a chimney in a bathhouse is 15 mm. Experienced stove makers can do the job quite quickly, but there is no need for you to rush - carefully ensure that the laying proceeds brick by brick according to the pattern you found or prepared in advance. Walls good chimney must be perfectly even, all corners must be perfectly straight. To get this result, you need to use a plumb line, level and other tools. If you take your work seriously and take your time, you will succeed, even if you have never done such work before.

Choosing a metal pipe for constructing a chimney in a bathhouse

To choose a suitable metal pipe for constructing a chimney in a bathhouse, you need to pay attention to two main points:

If the diameter is too small, the smoke will not be drawn out well, and some of it will begin to enter the room. If you choose a pipe that is too wide, smoke and warm air will come out too quickly, resulting in the bathhouse cooling down. To buy a pipe of the appropriate size, you need to take into account the required length of the chimney and the number of bends. If the pipe will have two turns or more, a diameter of 110 mm is suitable.

The wall thickness must be sufficient for the metal chimney to last long years. If the pipe is thin, it will soon become unusable, because when heated, the metal quickly corrodes. This happens primarily in those areas where the chimney gets hotter. Therefore, the pipe that will extend from the stove must have thicker walls than the sandwich pipes located above it.

Installation of a metal chimney for a bathhouse

Assembling a chimney from sandwich pipes takes place in 7 main stages.

Stage 1. The first step is to cut a hole in the ceiling, which should be 15-20 mm larger than the outer diameter of the chimney.

Stage 2. You also need to make a similar hole in the roof.

Stage 3. A square is cut out of sheet metal that will cover the hole in the ceiling; in this square you also need to cut a hole for the chimney, and drill holes along the edges for fastening with self-tapping screws.

Preparation and installation of ceiling penetrations

The box is secured with self-tapping screws

Example of insulation with expanded clay and asbestos cardboard

Stage 4. The first single-layer pipe must be installed on the stove and a square of sheet metal must be placed on it, which will be fixed to the ceiling.

Stage 5. Then you need to insert the first sandwich pipe into the branch pipe of the single-layer pipe.

Stage 6. Thus, it is necessary to completely assemble the chimney, installing and securing one sandwich pipe after another.

Assembly of chimney elements “for smoke” and “for condensate”

Stage 7. A cap must be welded to the end of the last pipe, which will protect the structure from precipitation.

Installing a chimney through a roof penetration

Chimney insulation. Installation of a chimney on the roof

Heat protection gasket

To insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse near the pipe, any heat-resistant material will do. It can be:

Mineral wool should not be used - it absorbs water well, so it is not suitable for rooms with high humidity. If you leave the ceiling near the chimney without insulation, the room will quickly cool down, and the cost of warming it up will increase significantly, so you should not skip this step.

Making sandwich pipes with your own hands

How to make a sandwich pipe

If you don’t want to spend money on buying ready-made sandwich pipes to build a chimney in a bathhouse, you can make them yourself. Then they will most likely have a less presentable appearance, however, these pipes are just as suitable for removing smoke and protecting against fire. In addition, no one is stopping you from making your own sandwich pipes, which will look just as good as store-bought ones - everything is in your hands.

To make them, you need:

take two sheets of steel and roll them into pipes, the diameters should be different - one will be internal and the other external;
the inner pipe must be wrapped with thermal insulation;
then you need to put a larger diameter pipe on top and connect the entire structure together by rolling;
the next step is to cut clamps from the same sheet metal - strips 20 cm wide, their length should be greater than the outer circumference of the chimney;
These clamps connect the pipe from above and below;
thus, it is necessary to produce the required number of sandwich pipes for the construction of the chimney;
a square sheet of metal must be fixed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws, after which it is necessary to place thermal insulation on it;
a strip needs to be welded around the circumference to the end of one of the pipes to form a pipe.

Use basalt mineral wool to insulate the chimney

Another option is not to roll sheet metal pipes yourself, but to use ready-made ones. You can also purchase ready-made clamps in the store.

A simple way to install a chimney

There is a simpler way to install a metal chimney in a bathhouse, which will also cost much less. It involves the use of exclusively ordinary single-layer pipes that go up from the stove and exit through the roof to the outside.

Single-layer pipe for a bath

The main features of this design:

Self-tapping screws can be used to fasten various elements;
in the place where the pipe passes through the ceilings, it can be wrapped with any suitable insulation (for example, basalt wool) and asbestos cord.

Steel chimney for a bathhouse. Stainless steel pipe

However, such a chimney is neither durable nor fireproof, and if you want to get a high-quality result that will please you for many years, you should still use one of the options given above.

Brick and metal chimney maintenance

There are many different ways to clean a chimney. Perhaps the most popular of them is cleaning the pipe in winter using snow, which must be thrown from above. However, the effectiveness of this method is low. It is better to use one of the methods that bring much more noticeable results.

Chimney cleaning - photo

Washing and heating the furnace

To extend the service life of the chimney, it is necessary to periodically inspect all joints and check the general condition of the structure in order to notice problems that may appear in the early stages. As noted above, if you install a metal chimney in your bathhouse, its lower pipe will need to be changed periodically, since it heats up much more and therefore becomes unusable faster.

If you strictly follow the technology, a home-made brick or metal chimney will remove smoke well and retain heat well. In this case, the risk of fire is reduced to almost zero. Both metal and brick structures are very durable, so it will not be long before you feel the need to build or install a new chimney in your bathhouse.