Is it possible and how to properly lay tiles on a foam block? Facing an aerated block with ceramic tiles Laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom.

After the walls of the house were built cellular concrete Care should be taken to ensure that the tiles are laid on the foam blocks correctly. For all its attractiveness, lightweight concrete has a number of features that determine the specifics of internal and external finishing work. Therefore, before answering the question whether it is possible to veneer foam and aerated concrete, you should learn more about physical and chemical properties these materials.

Cellular concrete is lightweight, porous in structure construction material, made on the basis of traditional cement and sand, but with the addition of a specialized foam and gas former.

The most popular varieties lightweight concrete for monolithic and classic housing construction are:

  1. Foam concrete - cement or cement-sand mortar, into which a foaming agent (SDO, adhesive rosin foaming agent) is introduced at the mixing stage. After hardening and shrinkage, foam concrete has a porous structure of concrete mass and many closed bubbles. Modern technologies make it possible to significantly improve the quality of foam blocks by supplying foam to a still dry mixture using a foam generator or by producing the material under conditions of excess pressure.
  2. Aerated concrete - concrete mixture, into which a gas-forming agent is added at the stage of mixing the dry ingredients. The formation of spherical pores communicating with each other occurs during chemical reaction with the release of hydrogen when lime water is added to the mixture.

Cellular concrete is strong, but at the same time easy to process, cheap, heat-resistant, has low mass, and has good thermal insulation properties. These advantages make it possible to create a favorable, environmentally friendly microclimate for living in a house built from foam blocks.

However, porous concrete also has a drawback: high moisture permeability. At the same time, aerated concrete, due to its structure, has higher hygroscopicity rates than foam concrete. Moistening of cellular concrete and subsequent exposure negative temperatures leads to rupture of the structure of the material and loss of its structural properties. At positive temperatures, water entering the pores reacts with carbon dioxide, released by residents, which leads to carbonization shrinkage and destruction of walls. For these reasons, before laying tiles, the surface of porous concrete should be protected from moisture penetration.

Interior decoration

The internal ones are carried out first. Finishing work. If the walls of the room are smooth, clean and dry, the tiles are laid as follows:

  • create a barrier to the penetration of steam and moisture by applying a special waterproof primer to the wall deep penetration(acrylic, polyurethane, polymer waterproofing mastic);
  • after the first layer of primer has completely dried, the procedure is repeated;
  • lay the cladding on aerated concrete using waterproof elastic glue.

If the vertical wall of foam blocks has deviations of more than 0.5-1 cm, it should be leveled before cladding. In this case, the following sequence is performed:

  • a wall made of cellular concrete is covered in several layers with waterproofing paste (with each layer completely drying);
  • gypsum, lime or cement-sand plaster is applied;
  • The wall is leveled, after which decorative trim can be laid.

Renovations in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet often involve tiling with tiles. After carrying out the necessary waterproofing measures, the tiles can be glued onto a durable sand-concrete mixture.

If it is necessary to drive fasteners for furniture or plumbing into foam blocks, the wall should be strengthened as much as possible. In this case, experts recommend:

  • prime the porous concrete 1-2 times with protection from steam and moisture;
  • using dowels, fix fiberglass or metal mesh, making sure that it fits as tightly as possible to the surface;
  • Apply cement mortar to the mesh.

On a wall reinforced in this way you can using standard methods lay tiles.

Exterior finishing of a house made of foam blocks is best done in summer period when the probability of precipitation is minimal. This will prevent water from freezing in the concrete bubbles and ensure that any moisture that accidentally gets into the pores dries out.

Laying tiles on porous concrete on the outside (facade) side of the house should ensure:

  • attractive appearance homes;
  • protection of walls from precipitation and negative impact different temperatures;
  • effective ventilation.

Natural vapor permeability and diffusion (removal) of water vapor from outside foam blocks is ensured by the creation of a ventilated facade.

Correct external finishing walls made of foam blocks includes the following steps:

  • prime the surface with a good waterproofing agent;
  • insulation of cellular concrete with “breathable” material (fiberglass or basalt wool in the form of slabs with a vapor barrier layer applied to them);
  • installation of an aluminum frame that provides the necessary ventilation;
  • attaching plasterboard sheets to the frame;
  • finishing installation of façade decorative finishing for sand concrete.

Cellular lightweight concrete is wonderful construction material. More and more families are choosing to build comfortable housing from foam blocks. In such a house it will be warm, dry and not stuffy. And correctly laid on porous concrete decorative tiles will only enhance these benefits.

Correctly laid tiles on a foam block or aerated block can increase the strength and moisture resistance of the structure. And such work is most often performed on the walls of bathrooms and kitchens, also providing decoration for their interior.

Foam blocks are a building material characterized by high heat and sound insulating properties, lightness and a relatively affordable price. That is why they are increasingly used for housing construction. However, in addition to its advantages, the material also has a small drawback - the need for finishing that can preserve its characteristics and increase its service life. Internal surfaces of blocks in living rooms require plastering and painting. And sometimes it becomes necessary to lay tiles on a foam block - both in order to protect the enclosing structures from high humidity, and to decorate the interior.

Possibility of installation

Homeowners who are renovating a foam block house often have a question about whether it is possible to lay tiles on a foam block. The answer to this is positive - however, due to the increased fragility of such a base, pieces of material may begin to fall off along with the tile over time. This situation is prevented by first using a primer and then plaster or special tile adhesive.

Most often, the need to lay tiles on foam blocks arises when finishing the enclosing structures of a bathroom and kitchen. Indeed, in addition to the fact that the humidity here is noticeably higher than in other rooms, there is a possibility of water getting on the foam concrete and, as a result, destruction of the blocks and the appearance of mold. It is worth noting that ceramics can also be laid on the floor in such rooms, however, work with foam blocks is carried out only when finishing the walls.

Tile selection

An important nuance when laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom or kitchen is the right choice finishing materials and finishing areas. So, giving preference to the option with ceramic cladding up to the ceiling, you can visually make the room smaller, creating the illusion of more low ceiling. Therefore, in small bathrooms or kitchens it is advisable to lay tiles, leaving up to ceiling no less than 30–40 cm. And choose smooth materials in cool colors. For a large bathroom and kitchen area excellent option For facing the foam block, the tiles will be tiles in warm colors.

The dimensions of the tiles should depend on the filling of the premises with furniture and other items ( household appliances and plumbing), their area and height:

  • if there are a lot of interior elements, you should choose large tiles or a plain light mosaic;
  • for a small bath in a minimalist style (installing only the essentials, without washing machine and wall cabinets) perfect option– small square tiles measuring 100 x 100 mm;
  • for low rooms, a vertical one is suitable rectangular tiles, for low rooms - square-shaped products.

Glue selection

Before purchasing tile adhesive, you should pay attention to its increased elasticity. And when choosing a method for laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom, pay attention to such a characteristic as resistance to high moisture. For the work wall in front kitchen stove You should give preference to tiles that can be used at elevated temperatures.

Compositions based on conventional cement-sand mixture type SM9. And among special options tile adhesive, there is a separate mosaic adhesive, intended for sticking to mosaic walls. Due to the presence of white cement in the composition, this material does not have its own shade and provides increased strength of the cladding.

Preparation for installation

Before preparing foam blocks for tiles, you should evaluate the evenness of the wall surface. If the foam concrete laying was done correctly, practically no additional finishing is required. If there are significant irregularities, the contractor will have to do serious work to prepare the foundation and.

Since the foam block strongly absorbs moisture, it is ideal for wet rooms to produce

Applying primer under plaster.

Next stage– priming of blocks. For this, specialized materials are used and a wide range is available. When finishing bathrooms, it is worth doing additional work; in the kitchen such work is not required. Having finished with the preparation, they move directly to the question of whether it is necessary to plaster the foam block under the tiles - as a rule, they choose the option with plaster, which is more expensive, but also provides increased strength to the walls. Tile adhesive is quite suitable for these purposes. , on which the tiles will be laid, proceed to the main part of the work.

Main stages of work

The first stage of laying tiles on a foam block or aerated block (the principle of gluing ceramics to both materials is the same) is preparing the solution. To do this, add dry glue mixture and water, mixing them using a hammer drill with a special attachment. Mixing proportions are usually indicated on the glue packaging.

Despite the instructions for preparing the adhesive mixture, it is advisable to independently control the mixing process. The finished substance should not be too liquid and without lumps, but also not very hard, so as not to impair the adhesion of the tiles and the wall.

Continuing work, you should:

  1. Apply the prepared adhesive mixture using a notched trowel;
  2. Place the first tile against the wall and press firmly;
  3. Check the horizontality of the material with a level and, if necessary, level the tiles. It takes no more than 10–15 minutes to level the tiles after applying the adhesive. If this time is over, the glue should be removed and reapplied;
  4. Repeat the same steps for next tiles. In order to leave tile seams of equal thickness, plastic crosses are used;
  5. If it is necessary to cut tiles, use a tile cutter, running the cutting part of the tool along the marked surface of the tile;
  6. Placed in the corners of the room plastic corners, with the help of which smooth seams are ensured. And to bypass the water, gas and heat supply pipelines, they are cut out in the tiles.

After laying all the tiles and drying the material (about 24 hours), the crosses are removed, and. The material for these works is selected to match the tone of the tiles. Excess grout is removed with a sponge. And after 2–3 hours, the lining is wiped again, removing traces of the grout mixture. This completes the tiling of the foam block.

By deciding whether it is possible to glue tiles onto foam blocks, and by giving preference to this option, you get high-quality finished walls, the repair of which may not be done for many years. At the same time, the surface of the enclosing structures is reliably protected from external influences both with the help of plaster and thanks to tiles. And such a result can be achieved only with the help of a responsible attitude to work and strict compliance with all requirements.

One of the options for cladding buildings made of foam concrete, which combines practicality and accessibility for any category of citizens, is clinker or ceramic tiles. Such tiles are laid on a foam block quickly and do not require additional reinforcement of the entire structure or foundation.

Foam concrete is considered one of the most popular materials for the construction of residential buildings; it has high thermal insulation and strength, but, unfortunately, does not tolerate moisture well, so walls made of foam concrete require mandatory protection.

When choosing the type of cladding for a foam concrete surface, the following aspects must be taken into account:

  • Resistant to moisture and temperature changes;
  • High frost resistance;
  • Durability and resistance to mechanical stress;
  • Aesthetic appearance.

The tile meets all these qualities; it is made from various materials, which are suitable for both indoor and outdoor use.

Ceramic tiles or mosaics are most often used for interior decoration. Manufacturers offer a wide selection of shapes and colors of products that will suit any interior.

For façade cladding they use the following types tiles:

  • Facade ceramic tiles;
  • Porcelain tiles;
  • Clinker tiles.

At making the right choice material and compliance with all the subtleties of laying tiles on foam concrete, it will be possible to note an increase in the strength and durability of the structure.


The facing tiles will protect the surface from water, precipitation, mechanical damage and other adverse influences. Let's take a closer look at the features of laying tiles on foam concrete, find out what to look for when choosing a material, and how to install the tiles yourself.

Features of laying tiles on foam blocks

Consumers who chose foam concrete for building a house, final stage construction workers are thinking about choosing the right material for surface finishing. They often opt for tiles and here's why;

  • Laying tiles does not require special equipment or skills; all work can be done independently;
  • Wide range of colors and textures;
  • Strength and water resistance, resistance to mechanical stress;
  • Availability.

Tiles are used for various purposes; with their help you can not only protect the surface of the wall, but also create interesting decorative elements, which will give the room an individual character.

Laying tiles indoors

For interior work Ceramic tiles are used, they are mainly used for finishing in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, toilet or kitchen.

But ceramic products are not only practical way protect walls made of foam blocks, but also a way to add zest to the interior of any room. Manufacturers every year create new collections of tiles and tile mosaics that can satisfy every taste.

Glue selection

When choosing an adhesive solution for installation important point is the location of the work and the type of tile.

When laying in dry rooms, you can use the most simple types glue, for example, cement-sand mortar, but when working in the bathroom it is important to use glue that is resistant to water and dampness.

It is also worth paying attention to the elasticity of the solution. The higher this indicator, the stronger the finished surface.


Depending on the type of tile, the color of the adhesive is selected. If the products big size, color does not play a special role, but if mosaic is used, you should give preference to a solution based on white cement. It does not have a pronounced shade and is not noticeable under the details of the mosaic, this is especially important when the mosaic has a translucent surface.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is necessary to clean the surface from dust and dirt, and also check it for evenness.

If the wall surface has no deviations, then preparatory work don't take much time. It is enough to prime the surface twice.

For foam blocks only deep penetration primer is used.

It is worth noting that when working in the bathroom, it is necessary to use solutions with a waterproofing effect in order to avoid future destruction of the surface and the occurrence of mold or mildew.


The most commonly used compositions are based on:

  • Acrylic;
  • Polyurethane;
  • Polymer.

After the primer has dried, you can begin the main work of laying the tiles.

If the wall is uneven, you will need to pay attention to preparation. more attention. First of all, the wall is primed and covered with waterproofing paste. Next, level the walls using plaster. For walls made of foam blocks, plaster based on gypsum, lime or cement is used.

If you plan to install plumbing in the future or hanging furniture on the wall, then, before plastering the surface, a reinforcing mesh is pre-fixed - metal or fiberglass. It will distribute the load and strengthen the structure.

Before starting installation, experts advise applying markings to the wall, this will make the work easier.


Execution of work

After the prepared surface has dried, the main work on installing the tiles begins.

  • Prepare the adhesive solution - mix the dry mixture and water in a dry container of sufficient size, according to the proportions indicated on the glue packaging. The solution is thoroughly mixed until smooth using a construction mixer or a hammer drill with a special attachment.
  • Using a notched trowel, apply adhesive to the wall;
  • Take the tile and press it firmly to the surface;
  • Using a building level, check the evenness of the tiles and level them if necessary;
  • Place special crosses around the perimeter of the tiles, which help control the width of the tile seam;
  • Continue laying this and the next rows of tiles in the same way, not forgetting to check the horizontalness of each row.

Leveling is possible only within 10-15 minutes after applying the glue.

After completing the tiling work, the solution will need 24 hours to dry completely. After this time, it is necessary to remove the mounting crosses and grout the tile joints.

Laying tiles outside

Work on finishing the façade of a building made of foam blocks begins only upon completion of the internal work, best time for this it is summer season.

The finishing of the outer surface of the wall should ensure:

  • Aesthetic appearance of the building;
  • Protection of walls from precipitation and temperature changes;
  • Effective ventilation and the possibility of natural air exchange between indoors and outdoors.

Tile selection

For external cladding work, products are used that have high performance in the following characteristics:

  • Frost resistance;
  • Water resistance;
  • Durability;
  • Sun resistance;
  • Ease.


Most often, tiles based on clinker, ceramics and porcelain stoneware are used for work.

Execution of work

Before laying the tiles, a number of preparatory steps are performed:

  • Priming the surface with a waterproofing compound;
  • Insulation of the wall - for this purpose fiberglass or mineral wool is used;
  • Installation of a frame from aluminum profiles— it provides the necessary ventilation of the entire structure and serves as a frame for finishing;
  • Fastening plasterboard sheets to the resulting structure.

Foam concrete is primed twice.

After this, work on installing the tiles begins; the laying process is similar to the work that took place indoors.

Aerated concrete is a fairly convenient material to work with, as it has large dimensions and is light in weight. However, when laying it, it is still necessary to follow a certain technology, otherwise the structure will not be strong enough and durable enough. Therefore, next we will look in detail at how to lay aerated concrete with your own hands.

General information

IN Lately is very popular due to the cost-effectiveness of such construction. Price of this material significantly lower than, for example, brick.

In addition, aerated concrete has many other advantages:

  • Possibility of arranging a lighter foundation;
  • High speed of wall construction;
  • The blocks have an exact geometric shape, which allows you to lay them almost close to each other (when using glue).
  • Environmental friendliness;
  • Good thermal insulation properties;
  • Vapor permeability;
  • Durability – a structure made of aerated concrete does not lose its properties for at least 100 years;
  • Fire resistance;
  • Frost resistance;
  • Resistance to biological influences - this material does not have the ability to accumulate mold, fungi or other microorganisms.

As for the shortcomings, of course, they exist, like any other materials, however, builders have learned to deal with them:

Glue or solution

There are two ways to lay aerated concrete:

  • For ordinary cement mortar;
  • With special glue.

As a result, builders often face a question of choice. It should be noted that the thermal conductivity coefficient is cement mortar and glue is higher than that of blocks. Accordingly, the thermal conductivity of the walls will depend on the thickness of the seams.

When using cement mortar, the thickness of the joints is at least 6-10 mm. When using glue, the thickness of the seam can be 1-3 mm.

Of course, the cost of glue will be higher, so at first glance it may seem that when using it, the cost of laying aerated concrete blocks will also increase significantly. However, due to its insignificant consumption, the costs actually practically do not increase, and the structure turns out to be warmer. It follows that it is more advisable to use special glue than cement mortar.

Wall masonry

The easiest way to build walls is to invite specialists. However, the cost of laying aerated concrete blocks is quite high. Therefore, it makes sense to do the work yourself, having first familiarized yourself with all its nuances.

So, the laying is carried out in several stages:

  • First of all, the foundation is prepared;
  • A solution (glue or cement) is made;
  • Blocks are laid.

Now let's take a closer look at all these stages.

Foundation preparation

First of all, it is necessary to ensure a flat foundation surface. If there are serious bulges or irregularities, they must be eliminated. In some cases, even cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels can be used.

As mentioned above, before laying. To do this, you can use waterproofing polymer-cement compositions or rolled bitumen materials.

Advice! When preparing the foundation, it is necessary to make holes for communications. If they were not provided for when pouring, you should use diamond drilling holes in concrete.

Preparation of the solution

To prepare cement mortar you will need M300 cement and sand. First, the dry ingredients are mixed in a ratio of 1:4, and then water is added to the mixture and the composition is thoroughly mixed.

If glue is used, then water is added to the dry mixture and mixed thoroughly with a mixer. Detailed instructions instructions for making the solution are on the packaging.

Laying blocks

So, the construction of masonry from aerated blocks is carried out in the following order:

  • First of all, the material must be cleaned of dust, dirt, snow, etc.. Blocks with loose areas should be set aside. They can be used as additional elements by cutting them with a regular hacksaw.
  • The laying of blocks begins from the corners and is carried out in rows along the entire perimeter. To do this, glue or mortar is applied to the base using a trowel, after which the block is installed. If the wall is plastered on both sides, then the vertical seams between the blocks are not filled, but if at least one side is dry finished, the seam is half filled with mortar.

When laying blocks, it is necessary to ensure that the rows are horizontal using building level. You can also stretch the thread horizontally, which will serve as a guide.

In the photo - reinforcement of aerated concrete masonry

  • The second row is performed with dressing, the displacement should be 8-12 centimeters.
  • Every 3-4 rows of aerated concrete should be reinforced with two reinforcement rods with a cross-section of 8 mm. To lay the rods in the blocks, grooves should be made. It must be said that at the corners the rods should not bend at a right angle, but with a rounding; accordingly, the grooves should also be made rounded.
  • After the box is ready, the walls are finished. There are a lot of options, for example, you can lay tiles, plaster or use “dry” technologies.

Finishing - laying tiles on aerated concrete

Advice! If it is necessary to make stiffening belts, for example, under window openings or ceilings, you can use U-shaped blocks, into the tray of which reinforcement is inserted and then the solution is poured.

Here, perhaps, are all the main nuances of laying aerated concrete.

Conclusion

The technology for laying aerated concrete blocks is quite simple, however, it requires strict adherence. Therefore, the most important thing when building with aerated blocks is accuracy and adherence to the above sequence.

From the video in this article you can get Additional information on this topic.

Foam concrete is an excellent heat and sound insulating material; blocks made from it are light, pliable in processing, and easy to lay. Internal partitions in the house can be built from blocks with your own hands without special effort and financial costs.

A bathroom and toilet made of foam blocks will be no worse than a cast sanitary cabin made of asbestos cement, partitions made of brick or plasterboard, but the performance qualities of the premises in terms of noise insulation will far exceed those of other materials.

In the article we will talk about brands of foam blocks for interior work, the technology for constructing partitions and methods of protecting bathroom walls from moisture.

Advantages of foam concrete blocks

You can build partitions in the house (see), separate the bathroom from the living area, and properly organize the space in the apartment using various materials. But foam blocks are in special demand due to their unique technical and operational properties(cm. ).

What attracts builders so much in this material:

  • Light weight Compared to other materials, it does not exert much pressure on the ceiling.
  • The dimensions of the blocks can significantly reduce the construction process time.
  • Due to the ease of processing foam concrete, it becomes possible to create architectural forms of various configurations (niches, arches, etc.).
  • Partitions made of foam concrete are easy to redevelop.
  • High sound insulation qualities.
  • Complete fire safety.
  • Affordable price.

The disadvantages include:

  • The material has high moisture absorption; therefore, a number of measures will have to be taken in the bathroom to protect the walls from moisture.
  • Due to their porosity and softness, foam blocks have some restrictions on load, that is, hanging heavy cabinets on the walls is quite problematic. But this issue is easily resolved using a special one.

How to choose the right material

In order for the foam block laying in the apartment to be of high quality, even and reliable, you need to choose the appropriate material.

For partitions, blocks of the following sizes are used (length x height x width):

  • 600 x 300 x 150 mm.
  • 600 x 300 x 100 mm.
  • 600 x 200 x 75 mm.
  • 600 x 200 x 50 mm.

Since the partition for the bathroom is self-supporting, that is, it is not subjected to any loads from above (ceiling, roof, etc.) and only holds its own pressure, foam concrete grade D400–D500 with strength class B2.5 is usually used for such structures.

Important! The thickness of the blocks is taken equal to or greater than the width door frame, later it will be easier to get door slope, than to think about how to refine the jamb protruding from the wall.

It is believed that for internal partitions the most optimal ratio price and quality is a block 100 mm thick, this will be quite enough to prevent noise washing machine in the bathroom or the sound of running water could not be heard from the room. Between the bathroom and the toilet you can lay a partition 75 mm thick.

The foam block must meet the following characteristics:

  • Accurate geometric and linear dimensions.
  • A homogeneous surface without dark spots, various inclusions, etc.
  • No cracks, chips, dents or bulges.
  • Light gray color, partial or complete change of which indicates violations in the technological process.

We must remember that the smoother the surface and more precise the dimensions, the easier it will be to finish the walls (see), so you should select high-quality blocks.

Adhesive for foam blocks

Since the amount of work is not large, it will be better if the laying of foam blocks in the apartment is carried out not with cement-sand mortar, but with special adhesive mixtures (see), which include:

  • Cement.
  • Fine sand.
  • A modifier that keeps the mixture from premature cracking.
  • A plasticizer that penetrates deep into the pores of foam concrete and ensures reliable adhesion of the blocks to each other.

The composition of the mixtures is similar to the structure of foam concrete, and after the glue has completely set, the wall acquires strength and solidity.

The seam between the blocks is made up to 3 mm thick, no more, so for 1 m2 of masonry, depending on the brand of the mixture used, the glue consumption will be approximately 2 to 6 kg, which is 4–6 times less than when using cement-sand mortar.

Important! When mixing the glue, the preparation instructions must be strictly followed, otherwise the adhesive properties of the solution will be impaired, which can lead to a weakening of the strength of the partition.

Key points of partition masonry technology

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the location of the partition on the floor and wall, then, to lay the first row, install beacons along the marking to prevent the blocks from shifting during work.

Can be used as guides metallic profile for drywall:

  • First row of blocks.

If the wall is placed on a cement base, then it is enough to cover it with a primer and lay a layer of mortar under the blocks; when the floor is wooden, then to firmly fix the first row, it is recommended to screw in anchors or pins. We must remember that how accurately the first row lies, the partition will look even and aesthetically pleasing.

  • Subsequent rows.

Since the thickness of the partition is relatively small, the foam block masonry in the bathroom every 2-3 rows should be reinforced with a masonry mesh or separate rods (see), the ends of which should be drilled into load-bearing wall no less than 100 mm. In addition, securing the reinforcement will tie existing wall and a new partition into a single structure and will eliminate the risk of wobbling, shifting or, in the worst case, collapse of the partition under possible mechanical stress.

The doorway is also covered with two reinforcement rods or a corner, on which the blocks are then laid. If possible, you can use a standard jumper.

  • The last row.

If, when bringing the masonry to the ceiling, a small gap remains, then it is sealed with polyurethane foam.

  • The junction of two partitions.

If planned separate bathroom, then the partition separating the bathroom and toilet is also reinforced and the ends of the rods are laid between the blocks of the first partition and drilled into the load-bearing wall, thus creating a reliable connection.

That's all there is to it technological process masonry partitions. But there are a few subtleties that you need to know when working with foam concrete:

  • The laying of foam blocks in the bathroom must be carried out with mandatory bandaging of the seams, that is, the seams of each subsequent row should not coincide with the underlying ones, the shift is made by about half a block.
  • Foam concrete absorbs moisture well, so in order to avoid moisture absorption and premature drying of the adhesive mixture, the blocks must be moistened with water before laying it.
  • Due to the thinness of the partition, when laying several rows in a row, the wall may shift in plane, so it is recommended to let the glue set after each row.
  • After finishing the work, you need to putty the seams, various defects that have arisen during the laying process, clean the surfaces from excess glue and allow the partition to dry thoroughly. After this, cover the wall with two layers of waterproof deep penetration primer, wait until it dries completely and begin further finishing work.
  • All electrical and plumbing work is carried out after the glue has completely set; curing times should be looked at on the packaging with the mixture. Since foam concrete lends itself well to drilling, it will not be difficult to install pipes or install wiring.

Protection of foam concrete from moisture

The bathroom is considered the dampest room in the house, so the foam block masonry must be reliably protected from moisture penetration into the concrete body.

This is done in several ways:

  1. Plastering walls followed by coating with waterproof compounds (paint, varnish, etc.).

Since foam concrete is quite soft material, then before applying plaster mortar It is recommended to attach fiberglass reinforcing mesh to the walls. This is necessary for better adhesion of the solution to the surface of the foam blocks and obtain a better coating.

  1. Moisture resistant cladding decorative panels or slabs (siding, PVC panels And so on).

It is produced using a frame or frameless method. In the first case, a frame is mounted under the panels, on which the panels are hung; in the second version, the slabs are glued directly to the wall.

With this finish, the foam block masonry in the bathroom will be especially susceptible to dampness, so it is necessary to place a frame or facing material fix on the walls vapor barrier membrane, which will not allow moisture to penetrate inside the masonry, but will bring it out.

In a separate toilet, it is not necessary to take such measures, but still experts recommend laying a vapor barrier at least pointwise, in problem areas– around pipes, ventilation holes, doorways, where condensation may occur.

  1. Decorative cladding ceramic tiles.

In this case, the tiles will perfectly protect the foam concrete from dampness; only it is advisable to make the seams between the tiles as thin as possible and caulk them with a special grout containing moisture-resistant components. When using a simple mixture, mold or mildew may develop. But for perfect styling It is advisable to level the wall tiles and impregnate them with special deep penetration compounds.

In conclusion, it must be said that the use of foam blocks for laying bathroom and toilet partitions is the fastest and most profitable option, which even a non-professional can handle. And with proper protection from moisture, a bathroom made of foam concrete will last for many years without repair.

If something remains unclear, we suggest looking at the photos and videos in this article, which will give a more complete picture of this topic.