Self-leveling floor on wood. Self-leveling floors for wooden bases

Self-leveling floor wooden floor, wooden base, as a rule, found in wooden buildings. Often these can be old houses in villages, and modern cottages made from logs. Be that as it may, in each of these cases it is possible to install a self-leveling floor.

Types of floors in wooden houses

In wooden houses, as in any other residential premises, it is imperative to Special attention pay attention to the arrangement of the floor, since its rooms are located, usually on the first floor. Therefore, in addition to the obvious requirements for evenness and aesthetics, the coating must also be insulated.

IN wooden house There are two types of floors: concrete or wood. At the same time, it is precisely concrete base has more advantages. It takes less time and money, and in addition, professional skills for installing such a coating are not required. But at the same time, there is a significant increase in the load on the foundation, and vibrations of the walls can provoke cracking of the base and loss of the heat-insulating ability of the material.

The second option is still more resistant to wall vibrations and more environmentally friendly. In addition, they can be machined and parts can be easily replaced, even after installation. At the same time, their cost is quite considerable, work is required professional workers, and achieve it perfectly smooth surface almost unreal.

Materials and tools

Laying a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not so difficult process For self-execution, but at the same time it requires care and accuracy.

You will need the following tools and materials:

  • Construction aluminum rule with a length of at least 2 meters;
  • Needle roller;
  • Special dry mixture for self-leveling floors;
  • Construction mixer;
  • Laser construction level;
  • Alabaster;
  • Construction beacons - special slats with perforations with a thickness of 6 to 10 mm;
  • Large bucket 20 liters;
  • Putty knife;
  • Construction beacons in the form of special slats with perforations from 6 to 10 mm thick;
  • Stationery ruler;
  • Building mixture;
  • Self-tapping screws, screwdriver, dowels;
  • Vacuum cleaner and cleaning powder;
  • Triangular scraper;
  • Wooden blocks

Preparing the base before applying the mixture

Preparation of the base is important stage, from which by and large The quality of the finished coating depends. If you do not take into account the phased the right technology installation of self-leveling floors, the coating may crack, collapse and peel off ahead of time. Quality base is the key to durability flooring in your house.

In some cases, self-leveling flooring is done directly onto the old wooden flooring. Therefore, it is recommended to sand the wood and give it a rough structure using sandpaper. There should be no fats, oils, varnish or dirt left on the surface of the wood.

Now you have to remove all the baseboards and close all the holes that are in the floor with blocks. The floor must be thoroughly cleaned with a scraper, special attention should be paid to the inter-board joints, and all cracks must also be opened. Thoroughly clean the base of the future self-leveling floor using a vacuum cleaner and degrease it using cleaning powder.

Next, well-cleaned cracks and cracks need to be sealed using mortar, then the surface should be leveled. The next step is to draw a line along the entire length of the room at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule being used. Self-tapping screws are placed along these lines in increments of 30 centimeters. Now, using a laser level, you need to find the highest point on the base for the future self-leveling floor.

Remember that you need to add 6 mm - the thickness of the self-leveling floor and start screwing in the screws at the same level, while at the room ends the screws are also screwed in perpendicular to the pre-marked lines. Alabaster is laid out in small pieces near each screw.

The next step is to lay the beacons intended for self-leveling floors directly on the screws, while being careful that your beacons do not sag - they can be additionally cemented. The dry mixture is mixed with water using a mixer, in the proportion indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. The prepared solution is left for 5 minutes, then checked for fluidity and homogeneity.

The finished self-leveling floor solution is poured at a time onto an area equal to 2 square meters. The solution must be leveled using the beacon rule; also roll it with a needle roller to ensure uniformity. During the work, you need to ensure that the level of the self-leveling floor is level relative to the beacons. Leave the finished floor to dry thoroughly.

Additional Information:

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The technology for making a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor with your own hands is not at all that complicated, but it will require you to be careful and attentive.

Required materials and tools

Special dry mixture for self-leveling floors;

Laser construction level;

Construction aluminum rule (2 meters long);

Construction mixer;

Needle roller;

Putty knife;

Large bucket (20 liters);

Construction beacons (special slats with perforation), having a thickness of 6 to 10 mm;

Dowels, screwdriver, screws;

Stationery ruler;

Alabaster;

Building mixture;

Wooden blocks;

Triangular scraper;

Cleaning powder and vacuum cleaner.

Technology for pouring a self-leveling floor onto a wooden floor

Remove all baseboards and cover any openings on the floor with blocks. Clean the floor thoroughly using a scraper ( special attention pay attention to the inter-board joints), open all cracks.

Then clean the base for the future self-leveling floor with a vacuum cleaner and degrease it using cleaning powder. Now the well-cleaned cracks must be sealed using mortar, and then level the surface.

The next step is to draw lines along the entire length of the room at a distance slightly less than the size of the rule (about 2 m). Along these lines you need to screw in self-tapping screws in 30-centimeter increments.

Now with the help laser level find the highest point on the base for the future self-leveling floor. Don’t forget to add 6mm (this is the thickness of the self-leveling floor layer) and start screwing in the screws at the same level (at room ends, screws are also screwed in perpendicular to the previously “drawn” lines). Alabaster should be laid out near each screw (in small piles).

Now you can begin laying the beacons intended for self-leveling floors directly on the screws (you need to make sure that the beacons do not sag - they can even be cemented additionally). Mix the dry mixture to create a self-leveling floor with a mixer with water (in the proportion indicated on the pack), let the mixture stand for 5 minutes, then check it for homogeneity and liquid.

Start pouring ready mixture self-leveling floor (at a time - over an area of ​​approximately two square meters), then level the mixture using the beacon rule, roll it with a needle roller to ensure its uniformity. Always ensure that the level of the self-leveling floor is even in relation to the beacons. Give it done self-leveling floor dry thoroughly.

Quite often during repairs in Lately self-leveling floor systems are used, which are durable, wear-resistant and durable. Among their positive qualities are safety and environmental friendliness. Since the creation of such coatings, serious technical changes. For example, they are presented in a wide range color scheme, which is especially true. With their help, you can create real masterpieces of design.

Can wood be used as a base?

Quite often, craftsmen ask the question of whether it is possible to install a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor. The answer is yes, but before laying such a coating, it is necessary to analyze the rough base and determine whether it requires preparation. Realize installation work on wood is necessary only if it is well preserved, and it is recommended to use a thin mixture for arranging the finishing surface, which will not be able to increase the height significantly.

Preparatory work

The self-leveling can be installed not only on the type of rough foundation described above, but also on concrete. Before pouring, any surface must be prepared; the first step is to remove the baseboards and remove the fastenings from the walls. Then the master scrapes the surface; for this you should use the appropriate equipment. If the room has a small area, then it will be possible to cope with the help of a manual cycle. On next stage it is necessary to hide the cracks using an encryption machine. Such errors during operation in any case appear on wooden covering. The resulting irregularities and crevices are treated with putty, which after application is left to dry completely. Then the surface should be sanded with coarse sandpaper, which will improve the quality of adhesion.

The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will last a long time if the base is cleaned of dust after sanding. It is most effective to use for this. Before priming, the base is degreased. The primer is necessary to increase the adhesion strength of the material to the wood. The composition is applied in two layers; before carrying out work, you can add sifted quartz sand. This will ensure the most reliable adhesion between polymer coating and the basis.

Preparing tools

If you are wondering whether self-leveling floors can be applied to a wooden floor, then the answer will be clear. Such work is carried out quite often today. It is important to properly prepare the surface and ensure that you have the appropriate tools. To dismantle the skirting boards you will need wooden wedges, a nail puller and a chisel, but to process wood you need to prepare a sanding machine and a grinding device. You can finally prepare the surface using coarse sandpaper; cleaning the base will allow industrial vacuum cleaner. To apply the primer to the surface, you will need a brush or roller. Quite often these instruments are used in tandem, since not all hard to reach places can be processed with a roller. A short-haired roller and a flat brush will allow you to distribute most effectively. The craftsman will need a spatula and a squeegee. You can mix the solution for installing a self-leveling floor using a construction mixer or a drill. It is best to pour a self-leveling floor on a wooden base while wearing special clothing, wearing safety glasses, a respirator and gloves. To move on the surface you will need special soles with spikes. This will allow the master to move around the freshly laid layer.

Work technology

Laying a polymer floor on a wooden floor is no different from the procedure that involves using concrete as a base. Only the preparatory stage differs, which was discussed in more detail above. Before pouring the self-leveling floor, you should prepare the solution using the instructions. The dry mixture should be mixed with water until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting solution is laid out on the base, and it is necessary to advance from far corner rooms.

The self-leveling floor is poured onto a wooden floor, then leveled using a spatula until it is possible to achieve required thickness layer. If we are talking about a wooden covering, then the thickness should be five millimeters or more. As the most optimal and convenient tool a needle roller acts to level and combat bubbles. The intervals between pouring batches should not be more than 10 minutes, otherwise the joints will be clearly visible. But even in this case, the connection of the mortar strips must be carefully rolled with a roller. As soon as the pouring is completed, you should cover the curing surface with film; this must be done 15 minutes after completion of the work. This will prevent dust from settling. After applying the base layer and its hardening, you can begin to apply the finishing coating, which can be a varnish or a polymer.

Cost of work from specialists

The self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will hold quite firmly if you follow the instructions provided. This process can be called quite simple, and you can do it yourself. But if financial capabilities allow, it is recommended to hire a team of specialists who guarantee high quality executions, carry out installation according to technology, and also provide a guarantee for the work done. As a rule, specialists use expensive Building tools. All this adds up to the cost of preparatory, priming work and manipulations for pouring the mixture. In one square meter to prepare a wooden base you will have to pay 400 rubles, while applying a primer costs 200 rubles. per one square meter. Experts fill the surface with quick-drying liquid formulations for 400 rub. per one square meter.

If you want to make renovations in a residential area, it is recommended to choose mixtures based on polymer resins. If there are areas of high humidity, then epoxy filler should be used in them, while polyurethane flooring is suitable for other areas of the house. If you are wondering whether it is possible to pour a self-leveling floor, a wooden floor can be an excellent base. If there is a plank covering, it should be repaired and the peeling floorboards replaced. The fasteners are tightened, the cracks are filled with sealant or the latter is mixed with an equal volume of sawdust. Waterproofing should be laid on the wooden base. Do not neglect the need to apply a primer, two layers of which will facilitate the main work and increase the strength of the coating.

Secrets of using finishing mixtures

A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will look very good if the rough base does not have rough relief flaws. It is advisable to exclude them, since the thickness of the laid layer does not exceed 5 millimeters. Even though the bumps and depressions can be smoothed out by a leveling compound, there is a strong argument for eliminating the defects. Self-leveling floors will harden unevenly, and the strength indicator will vary.

It is also important to choose the right dry composition, the ingredients of which will determine the purpose of the future floor. For example, if the mixture contains cement as a binder, then this composition is suitable for pouring floors in bathrooms, kitchens, showers and bathrooms. If we are talking about mixtures with gypsum in the composition, then such a floor is best used for rooms with dry and low level humidity, it will demonstrate all its positive traits self-leveling floor A wooden surface can also be used for a base in which a heating system will be present. In this case, you should choose a leveling mass that has increased elasticity. It will expand and contract during operation without cracking.

Conclusion

Sometimes the self-leveling floor is separated from the wooden surface with oiled paper, which is covered with an overlap. In this case, the layer should be poured one or two centimeters thick. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor should be formed by treating the surface with waterproofing impregnation.

IN modern renovation Very often self-leveling floors are used to level the base and for the finishing coating. The main advantages of such floors are their durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, one cannot fail to note their environmental friendliness and safety. Today, self-leveling floors have changed qualitatively very much compared to those that were presented on the market a few years ago. An example of this is 3D floors, which can be called real masterpieces, thanks to unique design with a three-dimensional image of any object.
Laying a self-leveling mixture on a concrete base does not cause any difficulties for anyone, but how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? After all, not everyone likes the prospect of dismantling the old plank floor. What if this a private house, where the floor was originally completely wooden? It's no problem. It is possible to lay self-leveling floors on wooden surface under certain conditions. It is important here that the old base is still sound, and the mixture for the floor is thin, so as not to reduce the height of the ceilings.
Preparing the base for pouring self-leveling floors

Since the self-leveling mixture must be poured onto a sufficiently prepared base, increased attention should be paid to this process. Any foundation requires careful preparation. This especially applies to the old wooden floor. Let’s immediately make a reservation that this old floor should not be rotten, there should not be any creaks coming from it, not to mention the presence of loose boards.

First of all, all skirting boards in the room are dismantled. After this, using a scraping machine, carefully remove the top painted layer from the boards. Further grinder rub the base, revealing cracks that are sure to exist on any old wooden covering. These cracks, irregularities and gaps between the boards are covered with putty. For further work, wait until it dries well. Then, using coarse sandpaper, rub the entire surface. This technique will ensure better adhesion of the self-leveling mixture to the base.

The worn and smooth base is cleaned of dust and degreased using a vacuum cleaner. Then the surface must be primed. This guarantees excellent adhesion of the polyurethane mixture to the wood. This must be done in at least two layers. Sifted quartz sand should be added to the primer composition. Grains of this substance create roughness on the surface of the base, which increases the adhesion area and creates its multidirectionality. In total, this gives greater adhesion of the polymer and wood.

Tools needed to perform the work

To prepare the wooden base and pour the mixture you will need:

An ordinary nail puller, wooden wedges and a chisel for dismantling skirting boards.
A scraper or a hand scraper.
Sander.
Coarse grain sandpaper or emery.
Industrial or household vacuum cleaner.
Roller or medium size brush for applying primer.
A flat brush or short-haired paint roller to evenly distribute the polymer coating.
Needle roller for removing air from a polymer coating.
Squeegee and metal spatula.
A construction mixer or drill with an attachment for mixing the polymer floor solution.
Don’t forget about such mandatory items as safety glasses, work clothing, gloves and respirators. In order to be able to move, if necessary, on a freshly applied layer of self-leveling floor without fear, you need to acquire shoes equipped with soles with spikes.

Self-leveling polymer floor technology

In itself, the technology of pouring a self-leveling mixture onto an ordinary plank floor is no fundamentally different from a similar procedure where concrete serves as the base. The differences are only in the initial preparatory stage, which we discussed above in sufficient detail.

Before pouring a polymer floor, you should very carefully read the instructions for preparing the solution, which are on the package. The solution must be prepared in strict accordance with it.
Take the dry mixture from the bag and pour it into a container convenient for mixing. A plastic bucket from water-based paint. The amount of water required according to the instructions is poured into the powder and mixed with a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, the finished solution is laid out on a prepared wooden base. They begin to do this from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the door.
The poured mass is leveled as it progresses using a spatula to obtain a layer no more than 5 mm thick. This optimal size in the case of a wooden base. Final leveling and removal of air bubbles is done using a rubber needle roller. At the same time, you can move around the room using spiked shoes.
Self-leveling polymer flooring mixture hardens very quickly, so batches must be prepared quickly. The intervals between their fillings should be no more than 10 minutes. It is advisable to fill such a floor together, using two containers. While one person prepares the mixture, the second person pours and levels the previous batch. The joints between pouring batches should be rolled more carefully with a roller if you are making the floor alone and cannot ensure a continuous process.

15 minutes after the room is completely filled, the entire surface must be covered with film. This is required to prevent dust from settling on the floor, ruining the quality of the glossy surface. When the self-leveling floor is completely dry and can be walked on, it becomes possible to apply the finishing coating. It can be a polymer for three-dimensional floors, varnish or traditional options floor coverings.
Expert advice

In any residential premises, it is recommended to use self-leveling mixtures only based on polymer resins. In rooms where there is constant presence high humidity, nessesary to use epoxy type self-leveling flooring, while the rest of the house has polyurethane flooring.

The technology is intended to be poured on a concrete base, but installation on a wooden surface is also allowed. At the same time, the labor intensity of the work increases, since it is imperative to carry out high-quality preparation of the base with a two-layer primer. The adhesion strength of the coating to the base wood depends on this.

In modern renovations, self-leveling floors are often used to level the base and for the finishing coating. The main advantages of such floors are their durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, one cannot fail to note their environmental friendliness and safety.
Today, self-leveling floors have changed qualitatively very much compared to those that were presented on the market a few years ago. An example of this is 3D floors, which can be called real masterpieces, thanks to their unique design with a three-dimensional image of any object.
Laying a self-leveling mixture on a concrete base does not cause any difficulties for anyone, but how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? After all, not everyone likes the prospect of dismantling the old plank floor. What if this is a private house, where the floor was originally completely wooden? It's no problem. It is possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden surface under certain conditions. It is important here that the old base is still sound, and the mixture for the floor is thin, so as not to reduce the height of the ceilings.
Preparing the base for pouring self-leveling floors
Since the self-leveling mixture must be poured onto a sufficiently prepared base, increased attention should be paid to this process. Any foundation requires careful preparation. This especially applies to old wooden floors. Let’s immediately make a reservation that this old floor should not be rotten, there should not be any creaks coming from it, not to mention the presence of loose boards.
First of all, all skirting boards in the room are dismantled. After this, using a scraping machine, carefully remove the top painted layer from the boards. Next, the base is rubbed with a grinding machine, revealing cracks that are sure to exist on any old wooden covering. These cracks, irregularities and gaps between the boards are covered with putty. For further work, wait until it dries well. Then, using coarse sandpaper, rub the entire surface. This technique will ensure better adhesion of the self-leveling mixture to the base.
The worn and smooth base is cleaned of dust and degreased using a vacuum cleaner. Then the surface must be primed. This guarantees excellent adhesion of the polyurethane mixture to the wood. This must be done in at least two layers. Sifted quartz sand should be added to the primer composition. Grains of this substance create roughness on the surface of the base, which increases the adhesion area and creates its multidirectionality. In total, this gives greater adhesion of the polymer and wood.
Tools needed to perform the work
To prepare the wooden base and pour the mixture you will need:
An ordinary nail puller, wooden wedges and a chisel for dismantling skirting boards.
A scraper or a hand scraper.
Sander.
Coarse sandpaper or emery paper.
Industrial or household vacuum cleaner.
Roller or medium size brush for applying primer.
A flat brush or short-haired paint roller to evenly distribute the polymer coating.
Needle roller for removing air from a polymer coating.
Squeegee and metal spatula.
A construction mixer or drill with an attachment for mixing the polymer floor solution.
Don’t forget about such mandatory items as safety glasses, work clothing, gloves and respirators. In order to be able to move, if necessary, on a freshly applied layer of self-leveling floor without fear, you need to acquire shoes equipped with soles with spikes.
Self-leveling polymer floor technology
In itself, the technology of pouring a self-leveling mixture onto an ordinary plank floor is no fundamentally different from a similar procedure where concrete serves as the base. The differences lie only in the initial preparatory stage, which we discussed above in sufficient detail.
Before pouring a polymer floor, you should very carefully read the instructions for preparing the solution, which are on the package. The solution must be prepared in strict accordance with it.
Take the dry mixture from the bag and pour it into a container convenient for mixing. A plastic bucket from water-based paint can work very well. The amount of water required according to the instructions is poured into the powder and mixed with a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, the finished solution is laid out on a prepared wooden base. They begin to do this from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards the door.
The poured mass is leveled as it progresses using a spatula to obtain a layer no more than 5 mm thick. This is the optimal size in case of a wooden base. Final leveling and removal of air bubbles is done using a rubber needle roller. At the same time, you can move around the room using spiked shoes.
Self-leveling polymer flooring mixture hardens very quickly, so batches must be prepared quickly. The intervals between their fillings should be no more than 10 minutes. It is advisable to fill such a floor together, using two containers. While one person prepares the mixture, the second person pours and levels the previous batch. The joints between pouring batches should be rolled more carefully with a roller if you are making the floor alone and cannot ensure a continuous process.
15 minutes after the room is completely filled, the entire surface must be covered with film. This is required to prevent dust from settling on the floor, ruining the quality of the glossy surface. When the self-leveling floor is completely dry and can be walked on, it becomes possible to apply the finishing coating. This can be a polymer for three-dimensional floors, varnish, or traditional flooring options.
Expert advice
In any residential premises, it is recommended to use self-leveling mixtures only based on polymer resins. In rooms where high humidity is constantly present, it is necessary to use an epoxy type of self-leveling flooring, while in the rest of the house a polyurethane floor is used.
The technology is intended to be poured on a concrete base, but installation on a wooden surface is also allowed. At the same time, the labor intensity of the work increases, since it is imperative to carry out high-quality preparation of the base with a two-layer primer. The adhesion strength of the coating to the base wood depends on this.