Installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. Self-leveling flooring on a wooden floor Do-it-yourself self-leveling flooring on a wooden floor

Most often, self-leveling floors are wooden floor found in houses wooden type. Perhaps these are village houses built a long time ago or large cottages built according to modern projects from a log house. In any such house it is possible to install a self-leveling floor. Perhaps someone will make a small discovery for themselves, but making a self-leveling floor in a wooden house today is not considered a particular problem. Modern polyurethane mixtures allow you to create any coating. The only and an important condition is the complete readiness of the wooden floor.

Modern elastic, fast-acting self-leveling flooring is considered an excellent replacement for expensive particle boards. Together with a special reinforcing mesh, a special universal primer, a system is created that helps overcome the stress experienced by a wooden floor that does not have cracks. The result is an absolutely smooth coating on which a variety of operations can be carried out. You can lay carpet, stick ceramic tiles, or simply paint it. A wooden floor must have a layer of self-leveling flooring with a maximum thickness of 20 mm. After 5 hours have passed after applying the coating, walking on the new floor is allowed. wooden floor after 12 hours, it becomes possible to carry out further work.

And, of course, in order for the installation to proceed efficiently, prepare in advance:

• empty containers;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• hammer;
• rule;
• level;
• roulette.

What kind of floors do wooden houses have?

Wooden houses, similar to residential premises, require special attention to the arrangement of the floor, since the rooms in such a house are usually located on the ground floor. That is why the coating must be absolutely smooth, look attractive and must be insulated.

In most cases, a wooden house has two types of floors. They can be concrete, or they use wood. Moreover, the concrete floor has the most advantages. This type of floor requires a small investment, there is much less fuss with it, and it does not require special professional skills to install such a coating. However concrete covering- this is the weight that puts increased pressure on the foundation of the building. Any vibrations of the walls can cause cracking of the base, as a result of which the thermal insulation ability of the material will be lost.

A wooden floor is more resistant to any vibrations of the walls, it meets all environmental requirements. Such a wooden floor can be easily processed, rotten boards can be replaced, and all work can be carried out even after the wooden floor has been completely installed. The negative side of such a floor is its high cost; the work of installing a wooden floor can only be done by professional workers, get absolutely smooth surface almost impossible.

Preparing the base for pouring mortar

How high the quality of the coating will be depends largely on the most important stage, during which the foundation is prepared. Failure to comply with step-by-step competent technology obtaining self-leveling floors will lead to cracking of the coating, it may begin to deteriorate, peeling will be observed, occurring before its service life. Only a reliable foundation made with high quality, can be quality collateral long-term operation flooring.

Sometimes a self-leveling floor is installed directly on an antique wooden floor. In this regard, the wood must be sanded using sandpaper to obtain a rough structure. Treated boards must be painted with a special primer. If the first layer is not very strong and monolithic, it is necessary to apply several more layers. The surface of the wood should be free of grease, varnish and oil stains.

The next step is to remove installed skirting boards fill any cracks in the floor with blocks. Wooden floors need to be cleaned very thoroughly using a scraper. When performing such an operation, you need to pay a lot of attention to the existing inter-board joints and expose all existing cracks. Using a vacuum cleaner, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the self-leveling floor and degrease it using cleaning powder.

After this, well-treated cracks must be sealed using building mixture, level the surface. Then lines are drawn along the entire perimeter of the room, the length of which is less than the length of the room. Screws are placed along each line, maintaining a step of 30 cm. With help laser level the highest point on the surface of the self-leveling floor is found.

The screws must be screwed in at the same level.

Moreover, they need to be screwed into the ends at an angle of 90 degrees along previously drawn lines. Place several pieces of alabaster near each screw.

The next step will be laying the beacons that are required self-leveling floor. They are installed directly on the screws. There should be no subsidence of the beacons; if this happens, they need to be cemented.

Some features

Before you begin installing the self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, it is necessary to lay a mounting tape along the entire perimeter of the walls. This will be a damper gasket; it will protect the surface in case of expansion as the temperature increases.

After all preparatory work you need to determine the air humidity and temperature in the room. Production technology very often requires that these parameters have certain values. This is especially true for self-leveling floors where wood is used.

The prepared solution is immediately poured onto an area equal to 2 square meters. m. The solution is leveled using beacons. To obtain uniformity, it is rolled with a needle roller. When carrying out work, it is necessary to ensure that the lift of the self-leveling floor is maintained in relation to installed beacons. The poured floor must dry thoroughly.

After the surface has set and completely dried, a finishing coating consisting of varnish and resin is poured. It will give the finished coating a magnificent glossy shine and improve its strength characteristics.

IN modern renovation Very often self-leveling floors are used to level the base and for the finishing coating. The main advantages of such floors are their durability, wear resistance, strength and ease of installation. In addition, one cannot fail to note their environmental friendliness and safety. Today, self-leveling floors have changed qualitatively very much compared to those that were presented on the market a few years ago. An example of this is 3D floors, which can be called real masterpieces, thanks to unique design with a three-dimensional image of any object.

Laying a self-leveling mixture on a concrete base does not cause any difficulties for anyone, but how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? After all, not everyone likes the prospect of dismantling the old plank floor. What if this a private house, where the floor was originally completely wooden? It's no problem. It is possible to lay self-leveling floors on wooden surface under certain conditions. It is important here that the old base is still sound, and the mixture for the floor is thin, so as not to reduce the height of the ceilings.

Preparing the base for pouring self-leveling floors

Since the self-leveling mixture must be poured onto a sufficiently prepared base, increased attention should be paid to this process. Any foundation requires careful preparation. This especially applies to old wooden floors. Let’s immediately make a reservation that this old floor should not be rotten, there should not be any creaks coming from it, not to mention the presence of loose boards.

First of all, all skirting boards in the room are dismantled. After this, using a scraping machine, carefully remove the top painted layer from the boards. Further grinder rub the base, revealing cracks that are sure to exist on any old wooden covering. These cracks, irregularities and gaps between the boards are covered with putty. For further work, wait until it dries well. Then, using coarse sandpaper, rub the entire surface. This technique will ensure better adhesion of the self-leveling mixture to the base.

The worn and smooth base is cleaned of dust and degreased using a vacuum cleaner. Then the surface must be primed. This guarantees excellent adhesion of the polyurethane mixture to the wood. This must be done in at least two layers. The composition of the primer should include sifted quartz sand. Grains of this substance create roughness on the surface of the base, which increases the adhesion area and creates its multidirectionality. In total, this gives greater adhesion of the polymer and wood.

Tools needed to perform the work

To prepare the wooden base and pour the mixture you will need:

• An ordinary nail puller, wooden wedges and a chisel for dismantling skirting boards.
• A scraper or a hand scraper.
• Sander.
• Coarse grain sandpaper or emery.
• Industrial or household vacuum cleaner.
• Roller or medium size brush for applying primer.
• A flat brush or short-haired paint roller to evenly distribute the polymer coating.
• Needle roller for removing air from a polymer coating.
• Squeegee and metal spatula.
• A construction mixer or drill with an attachment for mixing the polymer floor solution.

Don’t forget about such mandatory items as safety glasses, work clothing, gloves and respirators. In order to be able to move, if necessary, on a freshly applied layer of self-leveling floor without fear, you need to acquire shoes equipped with soles with spikes.

Self-leveling polymer floor technology

In itself, the technology of pouring a self-leveling mixture onto an ordinary plank floor is no fundamentally different from a similar procedure where concrete serves as the base. The differences are only in the initial preparatory stage, which we discussed above in sufficient detail.

Before pouring a polymer floor, you should very carefully read the instructions for preparing the solution, which are on the package. The solution must be prepared in strict accordance with it.

Take the dry mixture from the bag and pour it into a container convenient for mixing. A plastic bucket from water-based paint. The amount of water required according to the instructions is poured into the powder and mixed with a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, the finished solution is laid out on the prepared wooden base. They start doing this from the very beginning far corner rooms, gradually moving towards the door.

The poured mass is leveled as it progresses using a spatula to obtain a layer no more than 5 mm thick. This optimal size in the case of a wooden base. Final leveling and removal of air bubbles is done using a rubber needle roller. At the same time, you can move around the room using spiked shoes.

Self-leveling polymer flooring mixture hardens very quickly, so batches must be prepared quickly. The intervals between their fillings should be no more than 10 minutes. It is advisable to fill such a floor together, using two containers. While one person prepares the mixture, the second person pours and levels the previous batch. The joints between pouring batches should be rolled more carefully with a roller if you are making the floor alone and cannot ensure a continuous process.

15 minutes after the room is completely filled, the entire surface must be covered with film. This is required to prevent dust from settling on the floor, ruining the quality of the glossy surface. When the self-leveling floor is completely dry and can be walked on, it becomes possible to apply the finishing coating. It can be a polymer for three-dimensional floors, varnish or traditional options floor coverings.

Installation cost

The costs of installing self-leveling floors in a home are strictly individual. They depend on the selected type of self-leveling mixture, its manufacturer, costs decorative design. Floors in 3D format with an exclusive pattern cost an order of magnitude higher than ordinary floors. The technology for installing self-leveling floors on a wooden base is not particularly complicated, so you can do the work yourself. This will provide a significant reduction in the cost of all repairs.

Here are approximate prices for work performed by professionals by stage:

• Preparation of a wooden base for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor (average price 5 USD per 1 sq.m.).
• Primer of the prepared base (average price 3 USD per 1 sq.m.).
• Filling a wooden surface with a polymer self-leveling mixture (average price 6 USD per 1 sq.m.).

Thus, for the entire complex of work on pouring a self-leveling floor, for example, in a room of 20 m2, you will have to pay 280 USD. Agree that this amount is quite impressive. This is much more than the mixture itself costs. All these prices refer to ordinary sex which you can do yourself.

The cost of pouring decorative floors is usually calculated individually. If you decide to make a self-leveling floor in 3D format at home, then you will definitely need to use the services of a specialist. This will guarantee:

• High quality creation decorative covering.
• Guarantee for all work performed.
• Carrying out the entire installation cycle in accordance with accepted technologies.
• Using construction tools that are too expensive, but necessary in the process.

In case self-execution work should not be neglected practical advice professionals. This experience will help you avoid costly reworking of the coating later.

In any residential premises, it is recommended to use self-leveling mixtures only based on polymer resins. In rooms where high humidity is constantly present, it is necessary to use epoxy type self-leveling flooring, while the rest of the house has polyurethane flooring.

The technology for filling is provided for concrete base, but installation on a wooden surface is also allowed. At the same time, the labor intensity of the work increases, since it is imperative to carry out high-quality preparation of the base with a two-layer primer. The adhesion strength of the coating to the base wood depends on this.

Popularity of self-leveling floors in modern world everything is growing and gaining momentum. Today, many people are interested in the question: is it possible to install a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? This is what we will discuss in this material. Today, self-leveling floors meet the following indicators:

Durability;
strength;
moisture resistance;
environmental materials and safety;
not exposed to fire and negative temperatures.

Having an impeccable appearance, self-leveling floors attract the attention of buyers. Absolutely any covering can be laid on top of such a floor. The self-leveling coating is not afraid of falling heavy objects, temperature changes, or aggressive chemicals. Latest methods decoration and design are constantly changing and expanding, an increasing number of colors, three-dimensional images are appearing, various inclusions and inlays are being added.
Today, the quality of self-leveling floors has changed compared to its predecessors. As an example, a 3D self-leveling floor can be presented, which is a decorative element with an exceptional design and three-dimensional images.

If laying a self-leveling mortar on a concrete floor today does not raise any questions, then pouring a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor immediately implies difficulties during installation. Since not everyone likes to dismantle a wooden floor, and if it was originally completely like that in the house, doubts immediately arise regarding the installation self-leveling coating. However, if certain conditions are met, it is possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The main criterion for the work is the condition of the coating, which must still meet good standards of use, and the mixture must be made thinly so as not to greatly affect the change in ceiling height.

Preparing a wooden base for pouring

Since pouring a self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat surface, the wooden base must be carefully prepared for this process. The wooden floor must be in good working order, not rotten, there should be no loose boards, everything is fastened firmly and securely.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove all baseboards from the room. Then carefully sand the floor with a scraper to remove the varnished or painted layer of the boards. After this, it is necessary to sand all the cracks, which are almost always present on the old floor, with a grinding machine. Using putty, you need to cover and putty all the cracks and unevenness of the floor. And you need to wait until it dries completely. For the best adhesion of the mixture to the coating, it is necessary to sand the floor again using coarse sandpaper.

After cleaning the base, it must be freed from dust and degreased. The next step work is priming the floor, which guarantees good adhesion of the polyurethane solution to the wood. The main rule is that you need to do this at least twice. Particles of sifted quartz sand, which are included in the primer, create roughness in the wood, while increasing the degree of adhesion, including multidirectionality.

The main working tools for preparing wood and pouring a self-leveling floor are presented in the following list:

Nail puller, wooden wedges, and also a chisel;
machine or hand scraper;
Sander;
coarse sandpaper or emery;
industrial or domestic vacuum cleaner;
roller or brush for applying primer;
a flat brush or short-haired paint roller for even application of the polymer mixture;
needle roller to remove air when applying the solution;
squeegee or metal spatula;
construction mixer or drill with an attachment designed for polymer floors.

You will also need to use special clothing, glasses and, of course, spiked shoes, which are designed for walking on a flooded floor.

Self-leveling coating installation technology

What’s most interesting is the technology of pouring self-leveling mortar onto wood covering basically no different from its application to a concrete base. The main differences are presented only in preparing the basis for these actions.

However, before you start pouring the floor in the house, you need to lay a mounting tape around the entire perimeter of the room. You will also need to install special beacons that help maintain a certain floor level.
You should buy a high-quality flooring mixture from a trusted supplier. Before use, you must carefully study the instructions for preparing the mixture, which are always on the product packaging. In order for everything to work out correctly, you must follow all its points very strictly.

Usually they take the dry mixture and pour it into a container where it needs to be kneaded. Best suited for this process a large bucket of water-based paint. Pouring required amount water, which is reflected in the instructions, you can start mixing the solution with a mixer or drill with a special attachment. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, only then can it be laid out on the treated wooden floor. The main condition is that the mixture must be laid out starting from the farthest side of the room. towards the doors.

You need to level the mass to a thickness of 5 mm, and a spatula will help with this. This size is most optimal for rooms with wooden floors. To prevent air from collecting and to keep the surface smooth and even, go over the solution with a rubber needle roller. If necessary, you can move around the room only in spiked shoes. If necessary, level the mixture hard to reach places, a spatula is best. Since the coating is self-leveling, leveling basically occurs on its own, just as water spills over the floor.

Since the mixture solution hardens very quickly, batches must be prepared very quickly. The time interval between batches should be no more than 10 minutes. The optimal solution There will be two people making the floor, which allows one to pour the floor, and the other to prepare the next batch of mortar. But if this is not possible, then you need to pay attention Special attention pouring joints between batches must be handled with careful attention using a roller.

After completing work in the room, you must wait 15 minutes and then cover the floor with film. This is necessary to ensure that the surface remains glossy, free of dust and debris. After the floor has completely dried, when you can walk on it without fear, the final type of coating is applied. There is already enough imagination here. The floor can be a 3D polymer, varnish or other more standard coating options. If you want a colored floor, then you can use colored dyes in its top layer. Upper layer will give the finished coating a glossy shine, and also improve strength and other characteristics. Experts do not recommend performing other work on outdoor floor within a week after its installation.

All work costs associated with coverage are individual for each person. Most often they depend on the quality of the mixture, its manufacturer, and the format of the decorative coating. For example, 3D floors with an individual exclusive design will cost much more than regular ones. Professionals charge a lot of money for their services. However, you can save money. The technology for installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not complicated, and everyone can independently add a “zest” to their home, decorating it depending on their tastes and preferences.

Experts recommend using only a solution based on polymer resins in residential areas. If the floor was poured in a room with high humidity, then you need to use an epoxy type of flooring. In all other rooms it is better to use polyurethane flooring.

If the old wood flooring in your home has lost its appearance, has not rotted or broken, or you want to heat it, you may be interested in information on how to pour the floor over wood floors without dismantling them. So, concrete screed will be poured from above onto the existing base, for which you initially need to coordinate the height of the future coating with doorways and communication lines (pipes, radiators, etc.). In most cases you have to shorten door leaves, filing them from below. Sometimes they resort to installing new doors, and all the highways are laid in a new way; here the owners of the home make the decision.

To install a high-quality screed on an existing wooden floor, choose mixtures that are suitable for such purposes, otherwise there is a risk of destruction of the screed if the old floor is rotten or sagged from age. Bulk mixtures that are easily leveled and quickly harden are ideal here. For greater strength, such a screed should be strengthened by reinforcing it, and it is advisable to check the compressive strength 28-30 days after installation. Typically the height of the concrete layer is 10 mm.

Concrete as a screed: installation stages

Anyone who is familiar with construction knows that any such process begins with preparatory work, and the installation of the floor covering wooden house not an exception.

Preparing the base

The main task facing the craftsmen in this case is to ensure high strength screed after it has hardened.

If you are dealing with a very worn-out previous foundation in a concrete house, you will need to remove the peeling layer by grinding or milling. The grease, adhesive base, and old bulk mixtures that have accumulated over the years of long-term operation of the floor structure must be removed, as well as unevenness whose differences exceed 10 mm must be leveled. For such purposes, special cement-based mixtures are used, or, more simply, concrete. Final leveling can only be done after the mass that has filled the recesses has completely hardened.

When pouring on old wooden flooring in a house, all rotten and broken boards are removed, and new ones are nailed to the joists in their place. You also need to ensure that each board is securely fixed and does not wobble, which can be eliminated using ordinary self-tapping screws. Under no circumstances should there be any creaking or bending of the floor when exposed to its surface. If there are holes in the flooring through which concrete will leak, they are sealed with wood putty, which consists of wood dust and plastic components. You can also prepare this putty yourself: mix sawdust with oil paint in a ratio of 4:1. Water-soluble putties are not suitable for such purposes.

Step by step, before the main process, the subfloor is prepared as follows:

1. The baseboards are dismantled and planks are put in their place to cover the openings between the wall and the floor.
2. The gaps between the installed planks and the base are puttied. After removing the boards between the wall and the covering, ventilation underground space will be restored.

Padding

The wooden flooring in the house needs to be sanded, and then using a vacuum cleaner to remove all debris and prime it. The primer will significantly improve adhesion between the concrete and the old coating and prevent the appearance of air bubbles. Also, the soil will prevent the water contained in the solution from quickly being absorbed into the wood and will ensure that the mixture spreads evenly over the base. Dry flooring needs to be primed twice, and in the case of multi-layer leveling, each layer of fill is processed. Make sure that before applying the primer, the floor is not damp even to a slight extent, otherwise the result will not give the desired effect.

Reinforcement

For weak wooden foundations in the house, it is best to purchase a fiberglass-based mesh, which will strengthen the leveling layer. It is attached directly to the base using staples and a special stapler. The staples will prevent the mesh from floating after pouring the solution. The reinforcement system must be installed in the middle or slightly below a third of the thickness of the screed. When hammering in the staples, control the strength of their fixation to the flooring.

Mixing concrete

Special attention is paid to the preparation of the solution, because the final result depends on its quality. Basically, for such purposes, dry formulations are purchased in 25 kg bags. This amount of dry matter takes approximately 6.5 liters of water; if the required consistency is not obtained, you can gradually add another 0.5 liter of liquid. Do not overdo it, as it is difficult to pour a liquid solution and it will not have any properties. necessary properties strength. The mixing process itself is best done using a drill with a special attachment until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. The prepared solution must be used within 15 minutes after mixing, otherwise it will harden and be unsuitable for use. Also don't forget to control temperature regime in a wooden house and in mortar. The optimal value is considered to be no lower than +10C. If you are carrying out work in a new, unheated building, it will help warm water, the temperature of which should not exceed +35C.

Pouring concrete

Now that the wooden base and mortar are ready, you can install self-leveling floors in the house. The screed is poured continuously until its surface is perfectly leveled. Spatulas with steel or serrated blades are used for this work. 4-5 hours after wood flooring will be covered with a mortar mass, you can carefully step on it. 6 hours after the completed process, grinding the surface is allowed, if necessary. It is usually carried out for future painting or application of liquid floors. Before sanding, remove the boards that are temporarily installed instead of baseboards; they have completed their mission and are no longer needed.

Processing expansion joints

In the places where they were expansion joints(doorways) using a grinder with a diamond wheel, cut out a layer of screed. Perform this process only after self-leveling surfaces frozen and you can walk on them. Next, each seam needs to be filled special material, which is intended exclusively for such purposes. It is highly elastic and hermetically fills the holes in the screed. When you calculate the required amount of material for self-leveling floors, proceed from the following parameters: for a layer thickness of 1 mm, 1.5 kg/sq.m. is consumed. mixtures.

After finishing work, be sure to clean the tool before the solution on it hardens, which will complicate such actions. To do this, rinse the spatulas and rules with water, and clean off the hardened mass with a coarse brush or spatula with a flat blade. Now you know that in a house with an old wood covering you can install a screed made of concrete mortar, and are also familiar with the technology of such work.

A visual example of pouring a floor is shown in the video:

Lugato self-leveling floor is designed for wooden floors, including old floors that need to be updated and reused.

A fast-acting, elastic and self-leveling self-leveling floor for wooden floors can replace expensive and thick-layer alternative solutions (particle boards). In combination with a universal primer and reinforcing mesh, a system is offered that overcomes the stress of wooden floors without cracking. An absolutely flat surface is created for various subsequent works, such as laying carpets or gluing ceramic tiles, applying paint. For layers from 1 to 20 mm thick (wooden floors: 5 to 20 mm). After 5 hours you can walk on the base (wooden floors), and after 12 hours you can begin subsequent work.

Technical data for self-leveling floors for wooden floors Lugato NeuAufAlt:

Consumption, efficiency of the mixture depending on the thickness of the layer.

• Viability of the prepared mixture in a container: 15-20 minutes.
• Operating temperature: 5 - 30 °C.
• Time after which you can walk on the base: after 5 hours - wooden floor
• after 2-4 hours - other reasons.
• A break in work before gluing with LUGATO adhesives (mixture layer thickness up to 10 mm):
• 12 hours - gluing tiles
• 24 hours - gluing flooring, painting
• 3 days - gluing of PVC parts.
• The time refers to a temperature of 15-20 °C and a relative humidity of 65%.
• Temperature resistance: from 0 to 70 °C.
• Bending tensile strength/compressive strength (28 days):
• 4.7 N/mm2 / 15 N/mm2.
• Tensile adhesive strength (28 days): 2.5 N/mm2.
• Composition: standard and special cement, quartz sand, synthetic additives, spreading agent, antifoaming agent.
• Ecology: without fibers and quartz flour. Casein free. Contains little chromate according to TRGS 613. GISCODE ZP 1.
• Packaging: 20 kg bag.
• Shelf life: in original packaging about 12 months. Store in a dry place.

Preparing the base for Lugato NeuAufAlt self-leveling floor: