Pie of floor insulation in a wooden house. Rules for arranging a ground floor pie on wooden beams Correct floor pie on joists

Today we will look at one of the most popular schemes for installing an insulated floor in a wooden house. The review will raise key questions about the preparation and construction of the floor substructure, the insulation layer and its protection, as well as the correct installation of natural plank flooring.

Requirements for the load-bearing floor system

High-quality insulation wooden floor requires that the configuration of its subsystem (joists, supports, jumpers) correspond to the existing dimensions and form factor of the insulation. Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool are considered the most suitable for insulating wooden floors; bulk granular fillers such as ecowool or perlite chips are less commonly used. The design of the load-bearing floor system must allow the insulation to be securely fixed, ensure its immobility and at the same time maintain its strength and functional purpose.

The key to installing a reliable and durable insulated floor is to secure the joists well and provide strong support for them. If the floor is laid on the ground, it is necessary to place a number of supporting pedestals made of brick or cast reinforced concrete. To simplify installation, the edges of the joists rest on the protrusions in the strip foundation. They can be made with a hammer drill and an angle grinder, and then sealed cement mortar, or provide for it at the stage of formwork assembly. Between the end of the beam and the entire foundation there should be a compensation gap of about 1/4% of the length of the log.

1 — strip foundation; 2 — support pillars; 3 - waterproofing; 4 - floor joists; 5 - waterproofing lag

It is also necessary to make sure that the moisture contained in the stone elements of the structure - the foundation and supporting pedestals - will not migrate into the wood. To do this, use linings of 2-3 layers roll waterproofing. You should pay attention to wood processing before starting installation work. All lumber must be thoroughly soaked in antiseptics and, if necessary, fire retardants, and then dried in a stack.

Joists and counter-lattice

When installing logs, they are placed in increments corresponding to the format of the insulation used. To avoid frequent installation support pillars, you can use a cross-lagged system. In this case lower bars have a cross section with equal sides and perform the main load-bearing function. The top row has frame device: boards placed on edge form longitudinal cells, convenient for laying insulation of a certain width and fastening flooring boards.

If the house is located on slab foundation, then the supporting floor system has a simple structure. The logs are formed by one frame row, which is secured with anchors to the concrete base. The plane of the monolithic base forms the bottom for the cells under the insulation, ensuring its reliable fixation.

When constructing a floor on the ground, there is no such support plane. One of the options for arranging it is to fill it with light porous material, such as expanded perlite or expanded clay, to the lower level of the joists.

Otherwise, the logs that form the cells for the insulation are equipped with longitudinal stops. A block of approximately 25x25 mm is screwed with self-tapping screws at the bottom of each joist, forming parallel ledges. A mesh of shingles or a thin edged board is laid on them, which provides support for the insulation.

1 - cranial block; 2 - floor joists; 3 - mesh; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - floor board

It is important to know that since the stuffed bars “eat up” the space of the floor cells a little, the remaining height may not be enough to accommodate insulation of the thickness that is provided thermotechnical calculation. In this case, bars of the same size are stuffed over the ribs of the frame system. They can be located parallel to or across the top row of joists; in the latter case, additional clearance is provided for ventilation of the insulation.

Laying insulation

The width of the cells for laying mineral wool mats should be 1-2% smaller sizes insulation. Due to the tight fit, excess ventilation of the floor is eliminated and possible shrinkage of the wool is compensated over time. When laying mats, they must be carefully and evenly compressed across the plane, placed into the cavity and then straightened inside. It is desirable that after installation the wool forms a small hump protruding upward, which will be pressed against the boards. If foil wool is used, it is positioned with the reflective surface facing up.

In the case of expanded polystyrene, which is practically incompressible, minor gaps may form. They are eliminated by blowing out summer polyurethane foam upon completion of filling all cells. In order to reduce foam consumption, gaps that are too thick can be eliminated with thin cut inserts made of PPS.

To fill the insulation into the space between the joists, it is necessary to localize the cells by lining the bottom with a vapor-permeable membrane with a fold over wooden beams. In the very simple version You can use geotextiles or a vapor barrier to protect roofs. To prevent the membrane from shifting when filling in insulation, it is recommended to attach it with staples to the wooden elements of the floor system.

How is thermal insulation protected?

Various insulation and ventilation schemes may require limited air circulation in the space under the floor. This is especially true for houses on a pile-grillage foundation, where the insulation is in contact with street air and must be protected from getting wet.

To prevent mineral wool from losing its heat-saving properties when saturated with moisture, it is covered with a vapor barrier on top. The protective membrane is spread over the joists and insulation, then fixed to the wooden blocks with small nails or staples. The joints must be carefully glued on both sides; it is better if they are located exactly on the edges of the supporting floor system.

In those rare cases when the dew point may move above the insulation with the formation of condensation on the vapor barrier, it is necessary to provide ventilation under the board flooring. Needs to be stuffed on top frame joists, covered with a vapor barrier, a counter-lattice made of boards of the same width as the logs themselves. The thickness of the vent usually does not exceed 20-25 mm, and the counter-latt itself does not in any way affect the quality of fastening of the board flooring.

Laying a tongue and groove board

The insulated frame floor system has solid wood elements that serve as excellent cold bridges. To prevent heat loss, you can cover the floor frame system with heat-insulating and moisture-resistant material, such as GVLV or MGL, and then lay the boards, having previously marked the position of the joists.

For an insulated floor, it is recommended to use a tongue-and-groove board with compensation grooves on the reverse side. Such flooring will not creak when walking, it is less susceptible to uneven shrinkage and warping. Thanks to the tight joining of the boards, any kind of blowing between them is eliminated. If limited air circulation is planned under the floor, then the openings for air flow will be 10-15 mm distance gaps near the walls, which also serve to compensate for the linear expansion of the wood.

When laying, the ridge is cut off from the end of the first board, and the groove is oriented towards itself. Fastening is carried out in each joist at one or two points. The boards are fixed with rough nails, which are driven obliquely into the groove and finished off by inserting a steel bar. To ensure high-quality joining of the boards, a beam is temporarily attached to the joists 20-30 cm in front of them and the loose floorboards are pressed away from it with a lever or a car jack.

The last board from the set is cut according to the size of the remaining gap, taking into account the curvature of the walls. It is pressed from the wall using a mounting tool through a lining made of a wooden block, and then attached to the joists right through the surface. The marks from fastening with nails are subsequently covered with plinth.

A finished wooden floor is laid on joists different ways. Which technology is optimal in a particular case depends on many factors, including the financial capabilities of the owner, geological and climatic features. The basis of all technologies is always taken classic method. What options for flooring in a wooden house are most often used, their design features will be discussed in this article.

By lags we usually mean timber rectangular section, but in fact this concept includes several design solutions at once:

The thinnest part of a log has a cross-section of at least 150 mm;
A log hewn on both sides with a cross-section of at least 150 mm;
Boards joined in pairs with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 25 mm;
A rectangular beam with different sections depending on the future load. The cross-section of the floor joists is calculated depending on the load and step width. In accordance with GOST, the minimum applicable section is 100x150 mm in increments of 60 cm;
Metal I-beam channel;
Laths used during dry leveling and insulation;
Long-dimensional plastic elements used to complete screeds in the factory.

Method of laying lags

Any logs made from various materials have one functional purpose: securing and installing the finished and subfloor in a wooden house.

According to the installation design, beams are divided into:

Laying on wooden beams;
Laying on slabs;
Laying on a support pole;
Laying on prepared soil.

The relationship between floor design and groundwater occurrence

The proximity of groundwater and the design features determine whether or not there will be a subfloor. How less distance from the logs to the ground, the less labor-intensive the installation. The design is distinguished according to GOST according to the level of seasonal location of groundwater, they also dictate the type of construction:

If the groundwater is low, then you can make the most simple design floor without subfloor. This option can be observed in country construction or in garden houses. For the southern regions and central Russia, this method is advisable in residential construction if the base of the house is higher than 1 m.
If groundwater is close to the soil surface, then the wooden floor and joists must be protected from harmful effects. In this case, support columns are laid out from sand-lime brick or concrete.

You can find out the groundwater level in the area and determine which floor structure is most suitable for construction on a map from the local weather service.

Classic floor design

As we have already said, all floor designs are divided into: with and without underground space. Without an underground device, it is cold and needs to be insulated. Several methods have been invented for this. Floors with subfloors are more interesting. They are made thermally insulated or not. Thermally insulated ones are divided depending on the location of the insulating part: between supports or joists. Among the wider variety, the simplest is a cold floor device.

Features of installing a classic cold floor

Laying on dry soil is carried out in several stages:

Soil preparation: the soil-vegetative layer is removed and the earth is compacted,
The second stage is to fill the sand cushion; to save money, you can use construction garbage mixing it with sand or crushed stone with sand. This pillow is again carefully compacted. You can compact layers hand tools, which is made from a heavy block and bar. which is attached from above across.
The frame for the floor is made from another layer of sand or clay or slag. This layer should have a thickness of 2-3 times the cross-section of the timber used as a lag. The main thing is that this layer is dry enough and protects the wooden floor from moisture. This layer is filled flush with the joists of the future floor.

The most economical option construction is considered to be the use of slag, but it needs to rest before use, so you need to purchase it a year before installation.

Since wood is susceptible to fungi and mold, before laying wooden logs in finishing layer need to be coated with an antiseptic and dried. The logs are laid in increments of 60-65 cm, this is enough for a structure made of tongue and groove boards 35-40 mm wide. If you use a wide board for the floor in a wooden house in a cold way, then over time it will warp. Do not forget that such a tan must have ventilation. Ventilation acts as an exhaust hood; it must be done in the form of holes in the baseboards on both sides.

An important point when laying floor joists is their location. Each board is cut from wood that has annual rings, and you should focus on them. The laying should be such that the pattern is directed in opposite directions for each subsequent board, so they will not allow each other to warp.

Features of installing an insulated classic floor

This option for installing a floor in a wooden house is laid on a kind of pie according to wooden beams. The construction of a pie is intended for hydro- and thermal insulation of a wooden floor. The main layers of the cake along the beams are carried out in stages:

A pit is dug, the bottom of which is lined insulating material, for example, roofing felt or bags of lime or cement. If bags are selected, they are laid out in 2 layers.
The next step is to pour a black cushion 8-10 cm thick and carefully compact it and fill it with a lime solution (5 parts water x 1 part lime).
All this is covered with a waterproofing layer, for example from roofing felt. The joints are glued with bitumen solution.
The next layer of the cake consists of fiberboard. The slabs are taken with a thickness of 30 mm.
An expanded clay cushion of fine fraction material 8-9 cm thick is poured onto the fiberboard.
The very final layer of the pie will be poured from concrete, the main part of which is sand.
Then logs are laid in increments of 60 cm, onto which the floor is attached.

These are diagrams of a classic floor design without an underground with insulation. But for residential buildings this option is not the best. For wooden house in urban areas it is better to use a structure with an underground, where insulation occurs along the beams from above, which we will discuss below.

Classic floor design with underground

For this design, soil preparation is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first two cases. The most important difference in the design is that instead of a sand cushion, in this case they use laid out pillars or solid concrete ones. The pillars are laid on a pre-filled foundation, each one has its own or is common to all. The width of the foundation structure should be 5-6 cm wider than the column.

In a floor structure with an underfloor, the finishing boards must be laid “in a cross” with joists. It is good if the direction of the wooden floorboards is parallel to the light falling from the window in the room. If the floor does not have a sheathing on top for additional insulation, then the logs are mounted across the direction of the boards. All measurements are carried out starting from the central axes of the columns and joists. The top of the columns is covered with a layer of roofing felt waterproofing. The first joist is mounted with a gap of 10-20 cm from the wall, and the same is done with the opposite final joist.

Underground cold design covered with a cushion of expanded clay or slag. But you should always leave 5-6 cm up to the joists unfilled, this will be a ventilated gap. To ensure better ventilation of the underground space, holes are made in the baseboard. According to GOST, ventilation for an area of 15 m2 requires 2 holes. To ensure better ventilation, they are made on opposite sides of a wooden house. And in order to prevent rodents from getting into the ventilation, they install metal mesh.

There are more modern way ventilation device, when the main pipe is taken underground and under the influence natural traction ventilation is carried out.

The main difference between a heated floor with an underground and a cold floor is the additional lathing on the joists along the beams, not from the underground side, but from the side of the house where the insulation is installed. For this design, a strip is nailed on both sides along the beams, which will hold the sheathing. Waterproofing made of ordinary PVC film is laid on the sheathing, on top of which mineral wool is laid or expanded clay from a fine fraction is poured. But there should be a ventilated gap between the top point of the log and the insulation. To ventilate the underground space, in this case, ventilation is done in the basement of the house in increments of 5-6 m. winter time years, the odors in the base are closed, the easiest way to do this is with polyurethane foam, in the spring you can simply cut it out with a stationery knife.

These are the main design options for the classic floor model in a wooden house, which are complemented by various components. Wooden floors in the house are environmentally friendly and beautiful, but after installation various problems may appear, such as squeaking. We'll talk about how to deal with this later.

How to deal with squeaky floors

To understand how to eliminate a squeak, you need to find its cause. And there may be several of these: the board rubs against a nail, creaks itself batten, logs creak, baseboards are installed incorrectly, ventilation is not provided and the floor gets wet, etc.

If the reason is in the logs, you need to carefully examine the logs of the wooden floor and, if there are any unevenness, they should be trimmed. If the creaking does not stop after this, then the joist needs to be replaced.

If the reason is the board, you need to carefully examine how the boards move when a person walks along them and see if they rub against each other. To solve the problem, you can try pouring talc between the boards or pouring PVA glue. In fact, there are many ways, but there are several traditional ways combating creaking wooden floors:

A wooden wedge is driven into the gap between the creaking boards.
If this does not help, a screw is driven between the boards, the head of which is bitten off, and the hole is filled with putty and painted over.
This is the most labor-intensive method using pins. The joints of the floorboards are shot with holes of 10-15 mm in increments of 15-30 cm. Round pins are made from wood and carefully coated with PVA glue and driven into the holes. The surface is sanded and painted.
The floorboard in creaking areas is additionally screwed to the joists with hardened self-tapping screws in increments of 50 mm.
Thin strips are cut out of felt, laid out along the length of the floor in increments of 40-50 mm and covered with fiberboard.

Any of the methods is considered effective against squeaking, but when correct installation wooden floor on joists, even a structure made of ordinary boards will be quiet.

We bring to your attention an analysis of the most popular variations in laying floors in wooden houses, their features, and material characteristics. You will also learn how to make log floors with your own hands. We will tell you about the commonly used types of floor heating in log houses, their pros and cons.

According to the method of laying, floors in log houses are divided into wooden and concrete. made from several types of materials and stacked one on top of the other. Can be laid between layers structural elements warm floor.

Do-it-yourself floors in log houses are often installed on logs or pillars. Most often this is done if the house does not have concrete base. makes laying out the floor much easier.

Types of floors in a log house and methods of laying them

Before you start laying the floor in a log house, you need to take care of ventilation between the layers in order to avoid. High humidity- the main enemy of wood.

Subfloors provide good ventilation and add strength to log floors. They resemble a rigid frame that holds the entire structure.

The next stage of work on laying the floor in the log house will be. This can be done using a blind area, using roofing felt, and waterproofing materials. Joists, lower crowns with antiseptics or recycled machine oil.

By accepting subfloors as the foundation of the surface, builders are to some extent mistaken. Often the bases are made with using chipboard, plywood and other boards for construction, which are laid on logs.

Such substrates are used to level the surface of the foundation, for horizontal laying of floor coverings, as well as to distribute a uniform load on the floors.

The easiest way to lay a floor is to install it on skull blocks, followed by laying insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

Mineral wool is the most best material for insulating the floor in a log house.

After the vapor barrier layer has been laid, you can begin laying the finished floor. To do this, use tongue-and-groove boards and chipboards. Next is the turn for the selected floor covering. This is at the discretion of the home owner.

When laying the floor, it is very important to remember that the temperature difference between the rooms and the floor cannot exceed 2º C, so its insulation is very important point work. In any case, walking on a cold floor is not very pleasant, especially in the cold season.

For waterproofing they take: isoplast, polyethylene film, PVC membranes. When the materials for insulation are selected, you can begin work on laying the floor in the log house on the logs.

Finish floor

Quite affordable and quality material For laying the finished floor, a milled board is used. Modern market building materials brings to the attention of developers boards that have tenons in the grooves for connection. Their size is 28 – 44 x 98 – 145 mm. The dimensions of the vents on the reverse side are 20 mm. Ventilators are needed for natural air circulation.

Also, for the finished floor, folded boards with tongue-and-groove slats, sectional, trapezoidal and straight tenons are used. The disadvantage of this material is that it has no air. Therefore, it is necessary to control their contact on the joists. After finishing laying the finished floor, you can begin finishing.

Laying the boards should be done with orientation towards tree rings wood, which should “look” at different sides.

The technology for laying concrete floors is quite simple.

To do this, you need to knead it in the correct proportions and supplement it with reinforcement.

The undeniable advantages of concrete floors are strength, quality and durability.

For improvement performance characteristics concrete, you can use self-leveling mixtures.

On such a floor you can lay any covering, laminate, porcelain tiles, and wonderful quartz vinyl tiles, with which there is no hassle at all.

Concrete floors are laid in two ways: on joists and on the ground. We have already considered the option of laying on logs. Now let's determine the features of laying on the ground.

First you need to determine the level of the floor in a house made of timber, mark it with a rope and pegs. Concrete foundation can be poured to a level of up to 10 cm, then it is covered with gravel at the level of the driven pegs and compacted. The concrete floor is left to dry for a period of about 3 months. Next, apply to the foundation mounting screed or liquid concrete.

Water floors in a log house

The gasket in a log house must be laid in a concrete screed.

Construction of a water floor in the house:

thermal insulation layer 20 – 100 mm;
concrete foundation on the ground;
reinforcement mesh;
heating system pipe, which is attached using clamps to the reinforcement cells (step 10 - 30 cm);
flooring underlay;
flooring to choose from.

A water floor is simply irreplaceable for a bathroom or nursery.

Installing an electric heated floor in a wooden house is quite simple task. It can be mounted on joists and screeds, as you wish.

The technology for installing such a floor is similar to the technology for a water floor. If the floor is installed on joists, then it is necessary to create a layer of air. The cable is distributed over the fittings, gaps 5 cm high are made in the logs, with a distance between each of them of 5 cm. The gaps are insulated with foil, heating cable stretch in these spaces, crossing the logs according to the principle reinforcing mesh made of metal.

Such coatings are considered the most environmentally friendly and durable. They are also quite convenient to use. This is an old classic that will bring comfort and coziness to your home, and also make the interior attractive and interesting. Wooden floors in log houses The best decision, because it will immediately fit into the overall composition of the premises and will not be conspicuous as something alien. Flooring technology wooden floors improving every year.

When constructing wooden and frame houses standing on a reinforced concrete “ribbon” or piles, it is important not to make a mistake in the design of the subfloor and to properly insulate it. Not only the comfort of living, but also the durability of the building directly depends on this.

First floor floor design option

The floor of the first floor, which does not have support along the entire plane, must be strong enough to bear the entire load. In addition, it must be reliably insulated, otherwise in cold weather the house will freeze through the “sole”, and ventilation of the subfloor must be organized. Otherwise, due to stagnation of air, the wooden beams will become damp and rot. How to comply with these difficult requirements?

First of all, the strip foundation of the house is covered with cut-off waterproofing, on top of which a frame assembled from timber with a cross-section of 75×100 mm to 200×220 mm (depending on the expected loads) is laid.

When creating a floor on joists, it is necessary to use a fine-mesh metal mesh to protect against rodents

The next stage is installation beams. For these purposes, boards or timber with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of 150 mm are usually used. They are inserted into grooves cut into the strapping beam. The pitch between the lags can be 40, 50 and 60 cm.

Next we proceed to subfloor device, which serves as the basis of the “pie”. Today, many builders prefer to use the technology of laying subfloor boards on cranial bars, which are fastened on both sides of each log, and boards, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood are laid on them.

Installing skull blocks is a relatively easy job, and the builders' desire to make their lives easier is understandable. But there is one very important point: the thickness of the floor’s thermal insulation layer directly depends on the height of the joists. For middle zone In Russia, the minimum insulation layer is 150 mm, the recommended one is 200 mm. The size of the cranial bars is 50x50 mm, which means that the thermal insulation automatically becomes 5 cm thinner. You also need to subtract the thickness of the subfloor boards - 25 mm. All this leads to the need to do more thin layer insulation or, in the case of mineral wool, press down the slabs so that you can lay a vapor barrier and lay the floor covering. But the higher the density of the insulation, the lower its efficiency. In addition, in such a design it is no longer possible to create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

Without proper air exchange, the subfloor “suffocates,” which inevitably leads to condensation and rotting of the wood

In an effort to minimize the problem, some manufacturers use bars measuring 40x40 mm or even 20x40 mm. But this also has its downsides. The thinner the block, the less load it can bear. This means that the pitch between the beams has to be narrowed. This, in turn, leads to an increase in the total number of lags, and, as a result, to additional costs.

The second option for creating a subfloor is to install a continuous flooring made of one-inch boards or moisture-resistant plywood, OSB-3 boards with a thickness of at least 16 mm, screwed with self-tapping screws along the bottom plane of the joists. Installing such a “carpet” is quite labor-intensive, but the result is worth the effort. Indeed, in this case, you can make a layer of insulation of the proper thickness and not be afraid of freezing even in the most severe frosts. In addition, it should be taken into account that this option involves carrying out installation work from the underground side, and this is only possible when technological manholes are provided in the foundation.

As for the subfloor material, it is necessary that it be well dried. Permissible humidity - no more than 20%. Before installation, the subfloor boards and the logs themselves should be soaked with an antiseptic twice at intervals of at least 5 hours to reliably protect them from moisture, rot and wood-boring insects. The choice of antiseptic should be taken seriously, since the beams will be hidden under the flooring. The owners of the house will only find out that they are rotten after the fact, when the floor begins to sag, or even collapse altogether.

When choosing an antiseptic for the subfloor, you should not save money by purchasing dubious products from little-known manufacturers

There are two main groups of antiseptics. Organic based preparations penetrate deeply into the wood, but exude a sharp and bad smell, which, however, disappears quite quickly. Treatment with these chemicals is best done by dipping, but if this is not possible, application with a roller or brush is allowed. Water-soluble products have no smell. They do not penetrate into the thickness of the material, so they need to be rubbed vigorously with a brush until foam appears. It indicates that the drug has entered into a chemical reaction with the wood, which means that the antiseptic treatment is proceeding as it should.

Another key element"pie" of the floor— waterproofing. The tree must be protected from moisture. Many people use simple plastic film, based on considerations of economy. But it should be borne in mind that this material does not tolerate negative temperatures. In a country house that is not heated in winter, as well as in a house with a cold cellar, such protection will not last long. However, for cottages designed for year-round living, polyethylene is quite acceptable. Still, it would be wiser to use special waterproof membranes.

Correct installation of insulation

Now it's time to talk about insulation. IN temperate climate Expanded clay poured between the beams is sufficient. But for central Russia, mineral ( stone wool). In this case, the step between the lags should be about 55 cm. The fact is that the slabs are 60 cm wide and they are laid spaced between the lags, thus eliminating the appearance of cracks and the formation of cold bridges in the future.

The slab insulation should be laid in two layers, with the seams staggered to prevent the formation of through gaps

More affordable (but less efficient and durable) Styrofoam can also be used as insulation. In this case, it is advisable to cover all joints with polyurethane foam to create a continuous thermal insulation layer without thermal breaks.

Some construction companies they prefer to insulate subfloors with so-called ecowool - a relatively new material for us, the basis of which is recycled paper. This heat insulator has been used for many decades in Europe and the USA and has gained well-deserved popularity there.

Cork agglomerate also performs well. It is an almost eternal material that is not afraid of water, cold, or heat. But unfortunately, it is very expensive, so it is rarely used in private housing construction.

Floor “pie” with ventilation gap

Ventilation gap. To prevent the insulation from getting wet and, as a result, rotting wooden elements designs need to be done air gap, more precisely, a gap measuring 50 mm, which will ensure the removal of steam. It is usually created using bars with a cross-section of 50×50 mm, nailed to the beams.

Subsequently, when it comes to laying the finished floor, you will need to ensure a flow of fresh air into underground space. To do this, just make a small gap between the flooring and the wall and cover it with a plinth. As an alternative, you can install ventilation grilles in two or three places.

The next layer of the “pie” is vapor barrier membrane . It serves to prevent water vapor from entering the insulation. There are many more of them formed in the house than you can imagine: the use of taps and showers, hanging laundry after washing, houseplants, human breathing, etc. Without a vapor-permeable coating, the heat insulator will accumulate this moisture. And when wet, it loses all its properties.

The vapor barrier should be laid with overlapping sheets of 20-30 cm. For greater reliability, the seams are taped with special tape

And finally, the final stage of work is installation flooring under the finished floor. This can be moisture-resistant plywood, fiberboard, gypsum fiber board, edged board and chipboard. The thickness of the material is selected based on the distance between the beams. And it is important to comply with these standards, otherwise the flooring will sag, which will inevitably lead to damage to the finishing coating.

The thickness of the subfloor depending on the pitch of the beam

Finally, after laying the flooring, you can begin finishing floor, and if everything is done correctly, the structure will last for many decades. If parquet or PVC tiles are used as the finishing coating, the flooring should be two-layer. In this case, the slabs, of course, need to be laid staggered. One more thing important requirement. In chipboards, the formaldehyde emission content must be extremely low. Only materials of groups E0 or E1 are allowed. Failure to comply with this condition is fraught with unpleasant odors in the room and, in the long term, damage to the health of residents.

The desire for environmental safety is driving city dwellers closer to nature. And more and more often building material becomes a tree. And this is understandable. A wooden house has numerous advantages compared to a stone one or one built from artificial materials. modern technology. One of the most important parts of your home is a properly installed floor.

When building a house, they care not only about its beauty, but also about making it warm and cozy. Insulating the walls is only half the battle. The house must be protected from the cold from below. The tree is natural material susceptible to rotting, therefore reliable insulation from moisture is also important. And finally, it should look nice and fit interior decoration premises. In order for all goals to be achieved, it is not enough to lay the boards on a concrete base.

The floor in the house should be smooth, warm, beautiful and durable. All these qualities are achieved by laying the floor in several layers:

base;
heat and vapor barrier;
rough floor;
fine coating.

Looks like a layer cake, doesn't it? That's why it's called floor pie. Its proper arrangement will help to avoid:

high energy costs for heating the house;
excessive moisture, which will inevitably lead to the appearance of mold and mildew;
rotting of internal wooden structures.

Types of floors and their features

Homes may have different designs. It must be taken into account when arranging floors. Laying the floor on the first floor depends on whether there is ground floor, or it will be laid directly on the foundation. Reliable thermal and steam protection is needed here.

For interfloor ceilings Sound insulation is more important, since the main load of heat conservation and protection from moisture is borne by the lower and upper floors.

The attic space must also be separated from the living space by an insulated floor to avoid heat loss through the ceilings of the upper floor.

Floor options

The floor can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends on the desire of the owner and technical capabilities.

Wooden flooring - advantages and disadvantages

It would seem that the answer is simple - a wooden house should have a wooden floor. It’s easier, cheaper and faster to do without resorting to services professional builders. The structure will be light enough and any foundation will support it. Again, this is an environmentally friendly option and fits well into the interior.

However, there are a few "buts". A wooden floor will last a maximum of 10 years. Wood tends to rot, no matter how much you protect it from external influences. In addition, wood-boring beetles will also do their job. For a wooden floor, constant humidity in the house is important - no more than 60%. Otherwise, the floor will begin to deform and rot. Laying a wooden floor must be done with special care so that it does not warp or creak later.

Concrete floor

Its main advantage is durability. You can put any finishing coating on it - laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles. However, this is a rather heavy structure that not every foundation will support. Concrete is used only for laying the floor of the lower floor.

Modern wooden cottages, as a rule, have a ground floor where a boiler room, workshop or other utility rooms are located. For the overlap between the basement and first floor it is better to use concrete plates. This is a more expensive option than wooden logs, but more reliable.

Selection of thermal and waterproofing

You can choose several materials for thermal insulation. The most environmentally friendly is expanded clay. It is inexpensive, non-flammable, does not rot, and mold does not form on it. But its thermal insulation qualities leave much to be desired.

Another environmentally friendly pure material- this is sawdust. You can get them at sawmills almost free of charge. They have low thermal conductivity and are suitable for insulation attic floor. Disadvantages include their ability to decrease in volume over time, susceptibility to moisture and, as a result, the formation of fungus. These risks can be reduced by using additives - clay, cement, lime or boric acid as an antiseptic.

Mineral wool (or glass wool) - also a budget option. It does not burn, retains heat well and has high sound insulation properties. But its installation requires adherence to a certain technology, in addition, it can cause allergies and skin irritation.

Polystyrene foam is one of the most convenient options in all respects. It is cheap, has good thermal insulation qualities, and is easy to install. You can use it to make a dense reinforced screed. From the same series - extruded polystyrene foam, it is more resistant to moisture.

Waterproofing

This is no less important component floor pie. The simplest option is plastic film.

The second option is pasting roll materials, consisting of waterproof material with a bitumen-polymer composition applied to it. Its use is justified where groundwater comes close to the surface. Most often, roofing felt is used for this purpose.

The most technologically advanced and most expensive option is a membrane coating. It is a self-adhesive film consisting of three layers - rigid plastic film, bitumen-polymer and anti-adhesive layer. It is convenient to use for creating waterproofing in rooms with complex configurations.

Wood floor pie

The basic principles of creating a wooden floor pie are accurate calculation and verification of all parameters. No less important wood selection. Typically the following types are used in construction:

pine can only be used if the board is not very resinous. This floor will bring a very pleasant pine smell into the room;
oak is the most reliable and durable material;
maple is easy to process and moisture resistant;
larch is comparable in strength to oak and has natural protection from insects. The most expensive option.

The tree must be treated with an antiseptic against rotting and a fire retardant, which reduces its flammability.

Floor installation

Laying down wooden structure onto the foundation, it is tightly fastened to it and to load-bearing structures walls The disadvantage of this method is that in case of deformation general design(and this is inevitable under changes in temperature and humidity) can also warp the floor.

Laying on beams

If the house is seasonal, you can make a single-layer floor. For a residential building, a two-layer one is more suitable - rough and finishing.

The beams are leveled and fastened to the foundation. The distance between them is 2.5-3 meters. To create a double floor, logs are laid on top of the beams - bars 5-6 cm thick. The laying step is 60-70 cm. A rough flooring is made on them from unedged boards. It needs to be planed and sanded. There may be small gaps between the boards, which will be covered with hydro- and thermal insulation. The bars are again laid on the insulating layers, serving as the basis for the finishing layer. Their height should be no more than 2-3 cm, this will ensure ventilation between the layers. You can choose the finishing coating according to your taste - wood, laminate or linoleum.

Laying on support posts

It would be more acceptable to lay the floor on posts. In this case, there is no adhesion between the floor and the walls; a gap is left between them. This design is called “floating”. It is suitable for houses where there is no basement floor.

Work order

Marking for posts (60-70 cm increments) and removing about half a meter of soil. Moreover, there is no need to select all the soil over the area of the house, so as not to fill it back up to a certain level later so that there is no draft under the floor.
Filling and compacting the bottom under the posts - it must be rigid.
The columns are made of baked bricks or filled with concrete. In the latter case, you need to make formwork. Their top part verified by level.
Filling with a thermal insulation layer (expanded clay, sawdust), about 25 cm should remain to the top of the columns.
After the solution has completely hardened, the beams are laid.

It is more convenient to place the supports first around the perimeter, and only then in the middle. On top of them are laid two layers of waterproofing - roofing felt. Logs made of timber or timber are laid along the supports. Further assembly of the floor is carried out in the same order as installation on beams. The space between the added soil and the subfloor is filled with thermal insulation material, leaving 5 cm free for ventilation.

Floor pie on concrete base

The concrete base can be laid on the ground. There are practically no contraindications for installing such a floor - neither the seismicity of the area, nor the height of the groundwater, nor the level of freezing matters.

The layers of the pie are arranged in the following order.

Step 1. Clearing the site from the fertile layer of soil, leveling and compacting the soil.

The photo shows soil compaction

Step 2. Backfill – sand and crushed stone. First, sand is poured out in a layer of 8 cm; you can use any sand. The layer is also compacted. The crushed stone must have a fraction of at least 30-50 mm, the height of the bedding must be 7-10 cm. The crushed stone layer must be leveled. It doesn't have to be compacted.

Step 3. On top of the poured layers it is done rough screed made of concrete. The height of the mortar layer is 5-7 cm. You can make a reinforced screed. To do this, before pouring, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the crushed stone.

Step 4. Waterproofing is laid on the screed. To do this, use roofing material or film. The strips are laid overlapping and secured with construction tape. The waterproofing material should extend 20-25 cm onto the walls.

Step 5. Thermal insulation slabs or strips are laid end-to-end; they must be pressed tightly against each other.

Step 6. The film is again spread over the insulating layer. Double protection of the thermal insulation layer from moisture penetration from below and from above will prevent its premature deterioration.

Step 7 The next layer is a reinforced finishing screed. For final and perfect alignment Beacons are placed on the floor. The screed mortar is made from fine - 5-10 mm - crushed stone and river sand. Reinforced with wire mesh with 3-4 mm rods, layer thickness - 7-10 cm.

Construction of a wooden floor when laid on a concrete base

Step 9. Flooring could be anything.

You can safely place floors on such a pie interior walls in the house. That is why reinforcement must be done with a mesh and not with separate reinforcement.

Features of a concrete floor

You need to start making a floor pie no earlier than the walls of the house are built.
The concrete screed must be poured at once, otherwise the floor will be of poor quality.
During the week after pouring, it must be constantly shed with water to avoid the formation of microcracks.
Full operation is possible no earlier than two weeks after filling.

Video - Concrete floor on the ground

Floor pie

It will not be so multi-layered; its main task is to reduce audibility between floors. On the other hand, the floor must be strong to support the weight interior partitions, engineering equipment and furniture.

The most convenient would be a beam structure. By the way, it can be played in the interior of the first floor. In any case, a double floor is required - rough and finishing.

In order for the structure to be strong, the cross-section of the beam must be at least 15 cm. The length of a beam made of solid wood is from 2.5 to 3.6 m, from laminated veneer lumber – from 4.2 to 6 m.

The gap between the insulation and waterproofing will improve the characteristics of the “pie”

Step 5. The finishing layer is laid on top and then the floor covering.

The beam ceiling is convenient because the space between them can hide all engineering communications - cables, pipes, etc. Such coverings are the best option for a wooden house.

A beautiful, smooth, warm, dry floor is not just aesthetically pleasing. This means warmth in the house and the health of its residents.