Extension to a house made of aerated concrete blocks. An extension made of foam blocks to a wooden house: pros and cons, stages of construction. An extension made of aerated concrete to a timber house.

Extensions to residential buildings from light blocks - a popular way to expand usable area without resorting to radical measures. This solution makes it possible to build on a relatively small areas all the necessary economic and support services, rationally mastering the few hundred square meters. An extension made of foam blocks is allocated for a garage, summer kitchen, bathhouse. Near the porch you can arrange a veranda or a mini-boiler room for an individual heating system.

It is important to correctly determine the type of foundation, because it is the one that will provide the connection with the main building. The height of the adjacent structure is selected so that its roof is at least 2-3 cm below the level of the main roof. Special attention pay attention to the walls if one becomes common. In this case, it is better to make a passage in the place of the old window, so as not to weaken the supporting structure.

Construction technology step by step

It is recommended that all elements except the very first row be laid not on thick layer solution, and fasten special glue. The thickness of its application is only 1-3 mm, so the geometry of the foam blocks must be perfect, and the surface of the first belt must be level.

1. The construction of the foundation is carried out according to the chosen technology: a strip foundation is poured into the formwork and reinforced with steel rods, a pile or column foundation is immersed in wells and aligned along the headbands in one plane.

2. The finished base is waterproofed with bitumen mastic or two layers of roofing felt. It would not be a mistake to combine the two methods. Insulation of the foundation of the extension is carried out if necessary, but most such objects usually do not need it.

3. Place several foam blocks at the corners level in 2-3 rows, carefully leveling them in all planes. It will be convenient to navigate them during further laying if you pull the cords.

4. After 4-5 rows are ready, longitudinal grooves are cut into them and reinforced with steel rods. The frame is filled with glue on top and the laying of blocks continues.

5. To cover a building made of foam blocks, light cellular or hollow core slabs or dry prepared timber. The latter is laid only on a layer of waterproofing.

6. The roof is laid separately and is not connected to the main roof.

Adding an additional room to a finished house is the same as building a new building. The only difference is that there will be more free space on the site.

Binding options

Two foundations can be attached to each other and rigidly connected only if several conditions are met:

• construction from blocks is carried out on soils that are not prone to heaving;
• the house has stood for several years and has undergone complete settlement;
• both bases have approximately the same depth.

If all points are fulfilled, a trench is dug along the old foundation and short reinforcement rods about 30 cm long are embedded into it up to the middle. The free ends are fixed in the second base.

Extension made of foam blocks to brick house can be fastened using metal rods 6-8 mm thick. They are driven into the old masonry every 2-3 rows to a depth of about 15 cm and the same amount is left for bonding with foam concrete. In the brick thickness, the reinforcement is additionally fixed cement-sand mortar. Such joining is performed only to a level of 2.5-3 m above the foundation, since it is not possible to calculate the difference in shrinkage above.

The situation is more complicated with dissimilar materials. For example, to wooden house You can add a kitchen or veranda from foam blocks, but you cannot make a rigid connection between them. Due to the difference in the properties and time of construction of objects, their shrinkage will occur unevenly, which will lead to rapid destruction of the walls at the connection points. Other methods apply here:

1. Sliding fixation is performed through longitudinal grooves cut into the blocks, ensuring free vertical movement of the walls relative to each other.

2. Insulated gap. As in the case of a connection between two foundations without reinforcement, there are no fastening points here. The house can be attached closely to the main one, and the joint can be filled with any insulation: cord, mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

The appearance of such dissimilar tandems leaves much to be desired, so subsequent finishing, for example, with siding, will hide the specific seams between the walls.

Cost of blocks and masonry

To estimate how much the extension will cost, you will need a plan with dimensions marked and a calculator. It is more convenient to make the calculation when you have already chosen the size of the foam blocks. Usually stones of 600x300x200 mm are used, but there are quite a lot of options. You will also have to take into account the brand - factories produce products with a density from D400 to D1000, but for an extension D600 will be enough. Their average price does not go beyond 3100-3200 rubles.

A house made of foam blocks can easily be calculated according to the project by calculating the area of ​​the walls from the foundation to the roof minus the openings. After this, the number of stones in the masonry and their total cost are determined. If you attach a kitchen or garage so that one of the walls is common with the house, costs will be significantly reduced.

You will have to spend money on reinforcement and adhesive composition. The consumption of metal rods will be determined by the height of the extension and the pitch of the reinforced belts. Each cube of foam concrete will require approximately 20 kg of glue (slightly less than a bag) - that’s another 240 rubles/m3.

Services professional builders will cost at least 2000 rubles/m3.

To increase the area of ​​a country building, an extension to a house made of foam blocks is perfect, which can solve a variety of functional problems: garage, living room, utility room, kitchen, veranda, terrace, dining room, etc.

The simplest extension.

Foam concrete blocks have many advantages over other building materials that are used for the construction of extensions: relatively low price, excellent thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics, high level fire resistance, no need to use additional insulation, light weight, sufficient strength characteristics.

Stages of construction of an extension from foam blocks to a country house

Before construction work it is necessary to clearly determine the location, overall dimensions future building, its functional purpose.

It is best to entrust the development of the project, if possible, to qualified specialists.

They can do everything necessary calculations, explore the soil conditions on the ground, and also take into account many nuances of construction, calculating optimal quantity building materials and additional elements. The project also necessarily indicates the areas for installation of communications (electricity, water supply, sewerage, ventilation system etc.), if required, as well as the location of window and door openings.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Foundation

As noted, foam concrete blocks have a relatively light weight, therefore powerful and thick concrete base they won't demand it. At the same time, the foundation must have the same design as the base country house, the same depth, and also completely coincide in all characteristics if it is planned to connect them.

If the area has non-heaving soils, then you can do it yourself with a rigid connection of foundations using metal reinforcement. If the ground conditions are difficult, it is erected with your own hands as an independent structure, so it is not connected in any way to the main building.

As soon as the foundation is ready, it must be processed using bitumen mastic and cover with suitable waterproofing material and additionally insulate. Upper part The foundation of an extension to a wooden house is covered with rolled roofing felt in 2-3 layers to ensure the proper level of waterproofing.

Wall construction

On waterproofing base The first row of foam blocks is laid out with your own hands. For their fastening, the usual cement mortar. There is nothing tricky about laying foam blocks - it is much easier than doing brickwork yourself.

At the same time, the second and subsequent rows of foam blocks must be placed on a special adhesive composition, which is selected depending on weather conditions. The upper part of each laid layer of blocks must be moistened with water, applying the adhesive composition to the lower part of each block. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a seam thickness of 2-3 mm. If it is necessary to make a more durable and rigid structure, then every 3-4 rows it is necessary to install reinforcing belts.

Installation of jumpers

Installation of lintels is carried out with your own hands directly on foam concrete blocks if the opening width is no more than 175 cm.

Window lintel.

If the opening is larger, then it is best to use sand-lime brick in such cases. Lintels can be made with your own hands using two methods: with permanent formwork, for which U-shaped blocks are used, or with removable wooden formwork.

Overlap

An extension of foam blocks to a wooden house is usually covered with hollow or gas concrete slabs. At the same time, ordinary pine timber is often used. If the choice was made in favor of wood, then you need to ensure that the timber is dry, planed, and treated with antiseptic compounds. The hemming is done by hand using plywood, chipboard or ordinary boards.

Roof rafter system

The most popular is the commonly found roof design, which turns out to be the most convenient in most cases.

How to attach an extension to a country house?

It is a common belief that only extensions that were built from wood can be attached to a wooden house. This is a misconception, because there are no particular problems when attaching an extension made of blocks, as in the case of brick. First you need to check the condition of the walls wooden house, if necessary, replace the deformed timber, analyze the condition of the foundation.

Attaching an extension to a wooden house begins at the stage of constructing the foundation, when we inserted reinforcing bars into the foundation of the building with our own hands and connected them to the reinforcing network of the base of the extension.

However, in the case of a foam concrete extension and a wooden house, it is not recommended to use rigid coupling of structures.

Preference is best given to a sliding coupling, which is performed through longitudinal grooves. If you are not confident in your abilities and are afraid that the coupling will be performed incorrectly, then you don’t have to do it at all, placing free space between the two structures using any suitable thermal insulation material(for example, mineral wool).

It is also worth considering the case of a brick country house.

If the foundations of the foam block extension and the building are of the same type (for example, both are strip), and were also laid at identical depths, then the heaving forces on both structures will be approximately equal. In such cases, the foundations are connected using reinforcing bars.

If the depth of the foundations differs, then in the case of a rigid coupling of the foundations, there is a high probability of cracks forming at the junction of the structures. To reduce the likelihood of cracking, you need to connect the foam concrete wall with a brick wall at a height of no more than one floor. At the same time, dressing is performed from reinforcing bars (the diameter of which should be about 7 mm) - they are laid every two to three rows.

What to do after completion of construction work?

If all construction work has been completed, then the only thing left to do is to fill out all the documents for the extension and obtain the appropriate permit. Of course, it is possible, and perhaps necessary, to collect all necessary documentation and take it to the appropriate authorities.

But, as you know, in our country, most homeowners go to register extensions upon completion of construction - this is permitted by law.

You can clarify the documents required to register an extension and obtain permission from the regulatory authority in your region.

Frequently purchasing ready house, there is a desire to increase its area or build additional functional rooms, missing from the main structure. For wooden buildings, this could be a bathroom or kitchen, and in this case, a block extension to a wooden house becomes the optimal solution.

Types and features

Today Construction Materials are presented in a wide range and have their own advantages and disadvantages. Despite the fact that it is advisable to make any extensions to an already finished building from the same material, in some cases it is possible and advisable to deviate from this rule.

For construction, the most popular are representatives of the so-called cellular concrete having pronounced differences:

• Foam concrete. Lightweight material with good thermal insulation. Installation is quick and easy with minimal labor.
• Gas silicate. It has the same quality at any point, unlike foam concrete. More durable and lightweight, retains heat better, and insulates sound well.
• Polystyrene concrete. The best option, has excellent waterproofing, maintaining vapor permeability, retains heat well, and is lightweight.

The choice of material depends on resources (financial and time), type of construction and personal preferences.

Extension stages

The construction of an extension from gas silicate blocks to a wooden house, from foam concrete or any other material has one sequence of work and consists of the following steps:

• Project. Having decided on the functional purpose of the premises, it is necessary to develop a project, prepare an estimate and purchase building materials.
• Foundation. Depending on the type of room and the material used, either a strip foundation or a columnar foundation is used. It is advisable to make the foundation similar to the main structure, but not necessary. The main thing is that they are on the same level.

Important! A special feature of the extension to a wooden house is the presence of an expansion joint, which compensates for the shrinkage of the structure.

• Walls. The construction of walls begins from the corners, performing mandatory reinforcement. During the on-site construction of window and doorways beams (floors) are installed.
• Roof. The final stage of construction work. The roof is either shared or autonomous, which is initially provided for in the project. It is erected using beams and rafters.

Even in ancient times, it became clear to humanity that air is the best heat insulator.

Layout of reinforcement for a house extension made of aerated concrete blocks.

People decided to take advantage of this property. And today, if available modern materials and the use of nanotechnology, this has not been forgotten. Is it just the methods of application? air insulation have changed.

Today, the most effective, from the point of view of thermal insulation, are materials that have a low density and contain many air pores inside.

This may include fiberglass or basalt, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, hollow brick(the more of these voids, the more heat-saving the brick is). Foamed concrete is considered the most effective of modern materials. We will talk about one of its varieties, namely, o. It is especially indispensable when you need an extension to the house, and not an entire building.

Scheme for adding an additional room.

Aerated concrete is considered environmentally friendly material, which, thanks to its porous structure, has strength, lightness and excellent thermal insulation. The combination of all this makes it more popular among all other types of building materials and allows it to be used both in the construction of entire houses and various extensions to the house. This could be a sauna, veranda, bathroom or heating unit. Easy, fast, no special extra costs. The main thing to remember is that before you start building an extension to your house, it would be a good idea to objectively assess the condition of the building itself. If it is new enough, then an extension makes sense. Perhaps it would be much more profitable to demolish an old house and build a new one than use this one inexpensive way expansion of living space.

The basis of any building

Scheme of connecting the new foundation to the old one.

Before you start making an extension to the building, you need to measure the corners of the future structure. Their diagonals should be at the same distance from the wall of the house and have the same length. Next you need to determine the thickness of the foundation, for middle zone 40-50 cm will be optimal. The depth should be 40-60 cm, which is due to the freezing of the soil in winter time. A metal belt is made according to the size of the dug trench. For this purpose, fittings are used. Then holes are drilled in the old foundation and a welded metal belt is attached.

Then the foundation itself is poured, for which a sand-gravel mixture is prepared and cement and pure water. You will need a lot of water: 125 liters for 1 cubic meter of concrete. You should also know that the strength of the cement used directly depends on its shelf life: the longer it is stored, the more of its strength it loses. After pouring, the foundation is given time to settle, about 2 weeks. Next, a brick base is laid out. And only after this the extension is made directly from aerated concrete.

Concrete foamer

An attempt was made to improve the properties of concrete using a foaming agent.

Device technology diagram columnar foundation.

As already mentioned, in modern conditions This is the most popular building material with greatest ability heat conservation, but there is another side to the coin: the lower the density of the material, the lower its load-bearing capacity. Concrete is known to be the strongest of modern materials and its load-bearing capacity is quite high. But the walls made of it are very cold, so the extension requires mandatory insulation. It is because of this that they came up with the idea of ​​foaming concrete. This is done using foaming agents (most often it is aluminum powder), then it is placed in molds and left to harden either naturally (foam concrete blocks) or in autoclave ovens (aerated concrete blocks). Thus, aerated concrete blocks are produced only industrially, while foam concrete can actually be produced directly on construction sites.

Naturally, this factor cannot but affect the quality and price. Modern manufacturers claim that a thickness of 30-40 cm replaces brick wall 1 m thick; it is also said that high vapor permeability of this material does not require the construction of ventilation in the room. Only to attach the blocks you need special fasteners, and in order to screw a self-tapping screw into the wall, you need anchor-type fasteners, otherwise nothing will work. Nails in such walls simply do not hold and fall out. Aerated concrete has another remarkable quality: blocks can be sawed with a hacksaw for metal and planed with a plane, like wood. To install the blocks from which the extension is made, it is better to use special glue.

Deformation of building materials

It must be said that deformation of any building materials is inevitable.

In fairness, it should be noted that no masonry, even 2.5 bricks, is completely airtight. Therefore, it is advisable to seal and coat absolutely all cracks, seams and joints on both one and the other side of the wall. For ventilation gaps between blocks and facing brickwork 20 mm will be enough. Bandaging blocks and facing masonry done using nylon fittings. It is indispensable when working with tension. In addition to brick, you can use other facade materials. Walls made of aerated concrete must be closed from the outside, since, having high absorbency, they will be extremely fragile. And heat loss in the cold season will be much lower, this is especially true for the middle zone. As practice shows, it is best to plaster a wall on both sides. Then the built extension will be warmer.

The decision to build an extension can be detrimental to the foundation of the main house. Often, due to inexperience, people lay the wrong foundation and after a few months cracks appear between the house and the extension.

The article describes the process of constructing an extension to a house made of foam blocks with all possible errors and tips on how to extend its service life. How to make window and door lintels and what danger awaits when planning an opening wider than 1.75 m.

Finally, you will find some ideas for decorating and using your extension.

Why are many house extensions made from foam blocks?

Most people, when choosing a material for an extension, are increasingly inclined to use foam blocks. They have both pros and cons, but there are more pros. The main advantages of the properties of foam blocks:

• Even a non-professional builder can handle the installation. Thanks to this, you can save on hiring specialists and complete the extension yourself from start to finish;
• Quick installation - the adhesive solution between the foam blocks dries much faster faster than solution made of concrete;
• The material is fireproof - does not support combustion and does not burn;
• Minimal settlement is ensured by the porous structure;
• Environmental friendliness - the composition is safe for nature;
• The porosity of the material also ensures low thermal conductivity - masonry made of foam blocks in 2 rows does not need to be insulated;
• The service life of foam block buildings reaches 50 years or more.
• The loose structure of the blocks allows you to cut them with a hacksaw, but it is better to use a circular saw;
• Strength of structures - a plastered wall made of foam blocks is difficult for intruders to break through;
• Due to its lightness, it can be used for construction on all types of soils and save on a powerful foundation;
• Low cost compared to brick.

Minor disadvantages of the material:

• The great influence of atmospheric influences on the material requires the construction of the structure in dry and warm weather and finishing or waterproofing after construction;
• Attractiveness appearance acceptable only for the loft style, which is not yet very widespread in the country.

Step 1: Planning

At this stage, the conditions for construction are studied: soil, material of the house and its age. An extension project is being developed taking into account the number of storeys, the number of windows, the presence of doors and stairs.

The composition of the soil determines the type of future foundation. For example, on clay soil with close location groundwater It is reasonable to make a floating foundation. Otherwise, a few months after construction, the extension will begin to move away from the house. On earthen or rocky soils it is sufficient strip foundation adjusted for shrinkage.

You can build an extension from foam blocks next to a wooden, brick or clay house. The construction process will differ in the way the mortgages are attached at the joint. Old houses sank deeper into the ground. Therefore, the age of the house determines the size of the expansion joint - the distance by which the extension must sag in order to be equal to the main structure.

desire to do two-story extension It is better to implement it partially from foam blocks - it weighs a lot and greatly affects the draft. In this case, the 2nd floor is made of particle boards (chipboards). An economical and safe option, but the final decision depends on an analysis of the construction conditions and the desires of the home owners.

Before construction starts:

• A project for a future extension is being developed;
• Designated expansion joint;
• The number of foam blocks, cement, consumables is calculated;
• A place for temporary storage of building materials is being prepared.

Step 2: Selecting the type of foundation

The main types of foundation that are used when constructing an extension from foam blocks:

• Tape- a strip of reinforced concrete along the perimeter of the building, used if a garage or basement is planned in the extension. For the construction of a one-story extension made of foam blocks, a shallow foundation with a depth of 50-70 cm is suitable. For a two-story building, a deep foundation laid 20-30 cm below the soil freezing depth;
• Columnar- a system of pillars in places of increased load on the ground, suitable for light panoramic extensions for the construction of immovable and non-heaving soils;
• Pile- a type of columnar foundation, but using large metal poles. Withstands a weight of 2-5 tons, used in construction on soils with high buoyancy;
• Slab — monolithic slab made of concrete as the foundation of the entire house.

In private construction, when constructing additional buildings, strip or slab foundations are often used.

Step 3: Pouring the Foundation

There are 2 options for connecting the foundations of a house and an extension: rigid, when the foundation of a new structure is adjacent to the old one, and using an expansion joint. Rigid is used for the recent construction of a house that has just completed its shrinkage period. Not used if the soil composition is dominated by clay. Making an expansion joint is simple, economical and suitable for inexperienced builders.

A rigid foundation connection is formed between the following types foundations:

1. "Tape-tape"— a part of the foundation of the house 1.5-2 m long is excavated, a sand cushion is laid, reinforcement 12-14 mm is driven in at a depth of ¾ of the base, and the frame of the extension is formed;
2. "Stove-stove"- used when there are protrusions from the base, which are made during the construction of a house from foam blocks. The base of the slabs under the house should protrude at least 30 cm - in this case, the reinforcement will be exposed and connected to the extension slab.

An expansion joint is more reliable and reduces the risk of destructive effects of precipitation. The extension is being built on a separate foundation next to the house. In this case, it is better to use a closed contour of the base. Sheets of roofing material are laid between the bases and along the perimeter of the new foundation. When using this option, settlement of the extension will not damage the foundation of the house.

The ideal option is if the foundation of the extension was laid when pouring the foundation of the entire house and temporarily with decking for waterproofing.

Step 4: Building the Walls

The placement of gas silicate blocks starts from the corners of the extension:

• The bottom of the foam blocks is moistened for better adhesion to the connecting solution;
• The first 2-3 rows are additionally protected with a waterproof compound to protect against capillary moisture;
• Before applying the next layer of solution, the top of the foam blocks is moistened;
• The first row is laid using a level; if there are small irregularities, the quality of the masonry will suffer;
• External masonry is usually done using an adhesive solution - the layers between the blocks are less than 2-3 mm, which reduces total area“cold bridges” and the weight of the extension is reduced. Internal partitions can be done using concrete mortar to save money;
• The preparation of the mixture is indicated on the glue packages; it is applied to the horizontal base of the block soaked in water, and then to the vertical one;
• The horizontal surface of the masonry is leveled by grinding with a float. Dust is swept away or removed with a construction vacuum cleaner.

Every 4 rows of masonry, reinforcement is laid in the corners to tie the structure together and prevent cracks. Using a circular saw, a square is made with sides 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm. The groove for laying the reinforcement is knocked out with a hammer and chisel. The space around the reinforcement is sealed with an adhesive solution.

Step 5: Lintels for Doors and Windows

The desire to make a panoramic veranda in an extension of foam blocks faces the problem of the maximum possible opening width of 1.75 m. The heavy load exceeds the tensile strength of the foam blocks. For such cases, construction uses sand-lime bricks or cinder blocks.

When calculating the height of the lintels, the thickness of the floor is taken into account - it increases due to the installation of heated floors, leveling, and creating tiers.

Jumpers are made with removable or permanent formwork.

The first option follows the instructions:

• Frames are made from reinforcement of the required length;
• Support bars are installed on both sides of the opening, and panels are attached to the horizontal formwork from the “magpie”;
• Foam blocks are sawn to length to line the inner surface of the formwork;
• A frame made of reinforcement is placed inside, with a side with a large number of rods located below. The structure is secured with spacers;
• The blocks are re-wetted for better adhesion, filled with a concrete solution with inside openings and compacted;
• The poured surface is leveled to the level of the masonry and smoothed.

When making lintels with permanent formwork, U-shaped blocks are used. This is a more expensive option, but it saves construction time. To install U-blocks, follow these steps:

• At the top of the opening, in the corners, a block is placed with a support cut out at 25 cm;
• Using a level, unevenness on the horizontal surfaces of the supports is eliminated;
• U-blocks are installed on a regular adhesive solution with the hole facing up;
• The reinforcement frame is laid on top, with a larger number of rods concentrated at the bottom. The structure is rigidly secured with spacers;
• Each layer of foam block masonry above the lintel is compacted using a trowel.

When installing windows, contact your nearest bank in advance to receive “warm credits”. The state will compensate part of the cost energy saving windows. Usually, the amount reaches 10% - for this money you can order a white shelter metal-plastic windows wood lamination.

Step 6: Reinforced belt to increase the load-bearing capacity of the walls

A belt made of reinforcement rods provides extensions with protection from wind loads and increases bearing capacity walls It is made during the construction process, directly on the walls due to its heavy weight. To mount the reinforcing belt, do the following:

• Reinforcement bars are placed in prepared wooden templates at the corners of the row. The frames are welded together and leveled;
• The reinforcing belt is lined with longitudinal strips of foam blocks, cut circular saw;
• The template is well wetted and filled with concrete mortar.

Formation technology reinforced belt resembles the installation of jumpers.

Step 7: Roof

The overlap is done a few days after laying the upper reinforced belt, when the strength of the concrete increases. For a foam block extension, slabs of aerated concrete or wooden frame. In the second option, all elements are coated with compounds to protect against fire, pests, and tribes.

Metal tiles are the most popular and attractive roof type, but slate is also used. For construction flat roof For warm extension follow the instructions:

• Installed along the perimeter load-bearing beams;
• A layer of boards is laid on top, roofing material or roofing felt is laid with an overlap of 15 cm;
• The next layer is a dense layer of expanded clay (porous reddish-brown pebbles), check that there is a slight slope in the direction of precipitation flow;
• Pouring the insulating layer with cement mortar;
• Treating the screed with a bitumen primer and laying roofing felt.

If the width of the roof for the extension does not exceed 6 m, timber with a cut of 15*10 cm is used.

To construct a roof made of monolithic concrete slabs, I-beams are used as supports. For a roof span of 5 m, beams of 15 cm are purchased. The recommended grade of concrete is 250.

To achieve the correct consistency of concrete, a concrete mixer is used. The composition of the solution is crushed stone with a grain size of 20 mm and cement PC-400. The solution is mixed in the following proportions: 3 parts cement, 4 parts sand, 2 parts water. If necessary, water is gradually added to the concrete mixer.

The boards are attached to the bottom of the beams, and roofing felt is laid on top. Next layer - reinforced mesh profile with a diameter of less than 1 cm and a cell size of 20 * 20 cm. To predict the future repair of a flat roof, the mesh rods in the places of the lining are secured with knitting wire. In some cases, glue may be used. The main thing is that the mesh does not slide off when pouring the screed.

Before the screed is formed, fine-grained crushed stone is poured under the mesh. This creates a gap of 4 cm to separate the mesh and the roofing material.

It is best to completely fill all parts of the roof in one day. It is not advisable to fill the roof in one or more stripes. This will improve the quality of work. After pouring, the concrete is compacted manually or using special equipment. During compaction, you need to carefully monitor the position of the mesh - it should not move, tear or slide off. At the final stage, the structure is covered plastic film. This will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the surface at elevated temperatures and preserve upper layer from cracks.

Concrete is kept under the film for 3 days. Completely dry concrete floor covered with a layer of insulating materials. The slope towards the sliding of future precipitation is taken into account. At the end, at the final stage, the final screed is done, the installation of the rolled carpet. If desired, the monolithic roof is additionally insulated before covering it with metal tiles.

Step 8: Exterior and interior decoration

At the end of the construction of the extension, it is insulated with foam panels. Insulation is carried out with outside so that the dew point does not end up inside the structure. The foam is laid in one or two rows around the perimeter of the extension using standard technology.

The outside walls are finished with plastering and painting, siding, block-high, and decorative stone.

The peculiarity of foam blocks is that during construction they produce enough flat wall and for her interior decoration Plastering and painting is enough. Some ideas for interior decoration of the extension:

Without use exterior finishing, you need to protect the extension with a waterproofing layer. Otherwise, the foam blocks will become saturated with moisture and begin to gradually deteriorate.

Conclusion

Extension made of foam blocks - economical option rapid expansion of living space. If desired, such a structure can be erected independently in 2-3 weeks. The main thing is to analyze the conditions for construction in advance and correctly draw up a project.