Apartment renovation, wallpapering as best as possible. Wallpapering or pasting wallpaper how to do it right

Knowing how to hang wallpaper with one person, you can avoid conflicts and complete the entire amount of work in a short time.

Most often, it is two people who are engaged in wallpapering a room. One stands on a raised platform (stepladder, stool) and waits for the second to cut the required strip and spread it with glue.

Then the wallpaper is applied to the wall and combined with the previous strip. Next, one smoothes it out, removes unevenness, and the other watches the process.

Helpful information:

And everything would be fine, but in most cases such work is accompanied by disputes and often ends in a quarrel. Moreover, all stages of the process can be performed alone.

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the following set of tools:

• ladder;
• large container for diluting glue;
• cuvette for prepared glue;
• wallpaper ruler, tape measure, pencil, level;
• brush from 50 mm wide;
• paint roller (width 250 mm);
• rubber roller for smoothing wallpaper;
• rubber roller for smoothing joints;
• sponge, napkin for cleaning surfaces from excess glue;
• pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.

You will also need material to cover the floor. This can be cardboard or wide film. If the wallpaper is too heavy, you will need a cone-shaped roller with ribs. They smooth out the joints. When wallpaper requires particularly careful handling, the roller is replaced with a special wallpaper brush. You can purchase a plastic wallpaper spatula. It is used to form geometrically correct angles. If the wallpaper has a nasty texture, you can smooth it out with this spatula, replacing a regular roller.

How to prepare the surface?

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to carry out a certain set of works with the surface. No matter how fashionable and attractive the wallpaper is, general form It will not be ideal as long as there is an uneven surface under the finishing materials, replete with potholes and protrusions. That's why . Moreover, each layer requires a good primer. Such walls will last for many years, the wallpaper on them can be changed many times.

Photo 2 shows how to make marks using scissors. The alignment of the strip in the area where there is a cut is shown in photo 3. The bend is smoothed out by hand.

Next, cut off a strip of wallpaper using scissors. How to do this is shown in photo 4. The edge will be a little uneven. There is nothing wrong with this, because an allowance of 10 cm is left. It allows for more accurate and even cutting on the spot.

The strip that was previously used for marking must be put aside, but first you need to make a mark indicating the upper part. And put a number on it. How this can be done is shown in photo 5. Then the strip is folded as shown in photo 6.

It is more convenient to place the prepared strips near the wall for which they are intended. The vertical position will help save space. See photo 7.

Do the same with the next canvas. See photos 8, 9. This method of preparing wallpaper allows you to subsequently correctly join the pattern, quickly straighten the canvases, and save space and time.

At standard way Before preparation, strips cut to size are laid flat on top of each other. Next, the upper strip is smeared with glue, while the edges of the lower ones get damaged, get dirty, and then the overall picture deteriorates.

How can you mark the surface of the walls?

Marking the walls is an important stage. Usually the instructions say that you need to use a plumb line. But today the use of a plumb line is becoming a thing of the past. Use it. In this case, both a water level and a laser level are taken. Using this tool, mark where the first stripe from the corner should go. To do this, draw vertical lines. The level determines the direction of the position of the curb, which is attached horizontally, and coordinates the joining zones.

In photo 10 you can see how to use a water level. You need to pay attention to where the bubble should be. Experts recommend that when applying markings with a pencil, make light strokes without pressing on it. A clear bright line will appear through non-woven wallpaper and ruin appearance. Even if you take a different type of wallpaper, it can also become dirty with graphite particles.

It is necessary to leave a width tolerance. If after measurements it turns out that the strip of wallpaper is 53 cm wide, you need to step back from the corner by 54 cm. In this case, the mark will be constantly visible. This way, the person who is pasting the wallpaper will be able to constantly see the landmark and will not allow any failures or distortions.

How to apply glue and stick canvases?

If the preparation was successful, you need to begin the pasting process. While work was being done on the last stripes, the first ones were already well straightened out. The glue is diluted according to the instructions on the package. Regardless of the type of glue, prepare a clean cold water. The glue should be poured little by little, in a small stream. In this case, the composition must be constantly stirred.

There is no need to rush and pour 2 packs of glue into the bucket at once. The mixture will gradually begin to thicken, and the resulting lumps will interfere with your work. When choosing glue, you need to take into account the characteristics of the wallpaper. Each variety needs its own type of glue. Wide cardboard or prepared film is spread on the floor. Wallpaper is laid on it, base side up. For more convenient use, they are not molded a large number of glue into a ditch, into which the roller is then dipped. The most common application method is shown in photo 11.

When applying glue Special attention given to the edge part. Today they produce glue with an indicator. After breeding, it has a certain color shade, allowing you to know exactly where the glue has already been applied and where it has not yet been applied. If glue gets on the surface under the wallpaper, there is no need to panic. It can be easily removed later. When working, you need to make sure that the layer of glue is not too thick, and that the application itself is even.

When the glue is applied, the wallpaper is folded in half. You can see how to do this correctly in photo 12. The wallpaper should remain in this position for at least 3 minutes. This time is enough for the glue to be absorbed. You can increase the time to 5 minutes when the wallpaper is too thick. If the next section of the wall is smooth, without protrusions and various parts, you can immediately prepare the 2nd strip. But you shouldn’t get carried away with this. The number of prepared strips should not be more than 3. Otherwise they will begin to dry out and stick together.

When the strip is ready, it is unrolled, gradually ascending the stepladder. You need to hold the strip by the part on which there is a mark indicating that this is the top. When applying wallpaper to the wall, you need to take into account that you need to make an overlap on top. Its size is individual, depending on the characteristics of the room.

In photo 13 you can see where the pasting and fitting begin. First they work with top part. When everything is ready there, they come down from the stepladder and straighten it, applying the lower part. When everything is joined, you can start working with a smoothing roller, spatula or brush. Movements come from the top, from the middle. Then they go down. How to squeeze out the air can be seen in photo 14.

When the wallpaper is smoothed and the air has been removed, you need to roll the joints with a special rubber roller. However, seams do not like too active exposure. Therefore, you should not rub them or put pressure on this area. When excess glue appears, it is carefully removed with a sponge or napkin, and they are subsequently rinsed in water.

If not applied to the seams unnecessary impact, they will look almost perfect after drying.

How to cover areas with sockets and switches?

All sockets, switches, and other parts that violate the geometry of the walls must be removed before wallpapering. Firstly, this will allow you to later easily change them to smaller models. Secondly, the appearance of the switch installed on top of the wallpaper is more aesthetic and modern.

Some people advise cutting the part of the wallpaper that remains under the socket or switch crosswise and then bending the paper to the sides. This is unsafe in case of fire. It is better to make a cutout that matches the shape of the device, only smaller. This can be seen in photos 16, 17.

The slots are made immediately after gluing the corresponding strip. Firstly, you can later make a mistake with the place. Secondly, after drying the wallpaper will stretch, so making cuts will be more difficult. Before removing sockets and switches, you must turn off the current, and carefully insulate all contacts and put them inside the installation box.

How to trim off excess?

Here you will need a flexible ruler; this is a plastic tool 60 cm long; a stainless steel strip is built into its body. It is flexible, so the ruler can be pressed firmly even on an uneven surface. What such a tool looks like and how to use it can be seen in photo 18.

The peculiarity of using a wallpaper knife is that after each cut you need to break off a small fragment of its blade. In this case, it will always maintain good cutting abilities. When the excess is cut off, the surface is wiped. Photo 19 shows exactly this moment.

From photo 19 you can see that despite the wet state of the wallpaper, the cut surface is smooth and does not have any lint or fibers. Such accuracy can only be achieved through the use of a flexible ruler.

How to cover the area where heating radiators are installed?

The installation location of heating radiators is considered the most difficult for the wallpapering process. To complete all the work efficiently, you will have to make every effort. In new buildings there are fewer problems; there you can find radiators that can be dismantled and, after pasting, installed in their original place. Photo 20 shows how radiators are dismantled. After its removal, wall fasteners and floor outlets equipped with American-type connections remain.

In this case, the pasting will not be big problems. However, the process of removing the battery and then installing it will take time. Before disconnecting, you need to turn off the water supply, then the return line, and drain everything that is inside the radiator. At the same time, we must not forget about pressure. It is reduced by unscrewing the shut-off screw located on the drain valve.

If the situation is such that it is impossible to remove the radiator, you will have to insert strips about 15 cm under it. If the battery is working, you need to additionally coat the surface under it with glue.

Video of wallpapering alone

1. A stepladder is better than scaffolding and “goats”, which often damage the surface of the walls.
2. or with fiberglass, glue must be applied directly to the wall. Therefore, there is no need to cut the wallpaper into separate strips in advance.
3. A small allowance (1 - 2 cm) on the slopes will allow you to get a neat edge. You just need to wait until the wallpaper is dry, and then trim off the excess evenly.
4. Joining the panels at the corners is impractical. Most often, a transition is made from one wall to another, leaving a large allowance equal to the vertical deviation of the wall. The second canvas is glued onto the first one with an overlap, guided by the level indication. Then both sheets are cut through and the excess is removed.
5. It is better to lay the flooring after pasting the walls. The exception is tile and parquet.
6. The parquet is covered with cardboard before pasting. You cannot put film on cardboard.
7. While working, you need to keep your hands clean. They are periodically wiped with a napkin, which is rinsed thoroughly from time to time.

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The condition of the walls of a living room has a strong influence on its visual perception. Therefore, every owner tries to give them an aesthetic appearance and create decent comfort in their home. Quite a lot of construction methods have been developed to solve this issue.

One of them - the method of sticking wallpaper on the walls of a room with your own hands when renovating an apartment - is shared with readers of the site experienced builder Dmitry Chernov.

His advice will help you understand the secrets of this method and master them in full, including the steps:

• choosing wallpaper and glue;
• selection of working tools and materials;
• wall surface preparation;
• treating wallpaper with glue and directly gluing it onto the surface of the building structure.

Rules for choosing wallpaper

The optimal choice of wall covering should not only be based on color and pattern, but also taking into account:

• the material of its manufacture;
• roll dimensions;
• indoor operating conditions.

Coating material

We offer a wide variety of wallpaper coverings for sale:

• paper, as the most common and cheapest. They are made: one layer - simplex or two - duplex;
• vinyl or acrylic coverings with a paper or non-woven base made of semi-synthetic, paper-like or non-woven materials. They are treated with polyvinyl chloride - vinyl or synthetic fabric - acrylic;
• natural materials from:
• fabrics: silk, linen, cotton;
• wood processing products: cork, veneer;
• as well as plant materials: straw, jute, bamboo or reed.

The basis for all coatings is usually paper.

Main sizes of wallpaper rolls

Typical dimensions are shown in the table. They are convenient to use to calculate the covered area.

However, in practice, rolls of other sizes may be encountered. Pay attention to this question.

Compatibility with walls and operating conditions

When choosing wallpaper, you first need to pay attention to the conditions for its further operation, which depend on a number of factors:

• indoor air humidity;
• placement locations on the inner or end surface of the wall;
• condition of the wall covering.

Wallpaper compatibility table

How to choose glue

Adhesive mixtures are selected after the final selection of wallpaper.

Light paper blanks can hold any glue composition well, and for all others, grades have been developed that can hold even heavy blanks.

For luxury vinyl, acrylic and natural materials, manufacturers indicate recommended adhesive compositions.

Preparing tools and work area

Before directly applying the sticker, you need to prepare:

• the space in which the work will be performed;
• tools and materials for cutting and stickers.

The workplace and tools must meet

An ordinary table or a flat section of floor slightly longer than the height of the wall will allow you to work with a roll. You can also use a smooth fiberboard sheet or chipboard.

Tools you will need: tape measure, metal ruler 55 cm long, paper cutter, brush or roller, glue container, plastic wallpaper spatula or rag, plumb line, pencil.

The floor surface must be washed from dirt and dust. Even small grains of debris can damage the front surface decorative material. The workplace covering should be periodically wiped with a damp cloth to remove any adhesive residue and kept as dry as possible.

Rules for preparing the wall surface

In most cases of apartment renovation, the walls are already covered with old wallpaper or paint. They should be cleaned.

Paint removal technique

The painted surface must be sanded to create a rough surface that will be well saturated with glue. Then it is washed soap solution for degreasing and rinsing with clean water.

Method for removing pasted coatings

Old wallpaper material must be removed from the wall. This can be done by treating with a liquid to remove glued paper or with regular warm water.

Apply the liquid to the wall area with a brush or sponge and leave for 10–20 minutes.

This time is usually enough for it to be absorbed into the base material and to be detached from the wall surface.

Then use a spatula to separate the paper from the wall, moving it from top to bottom. You should work carefully so as not to damage the surface of the building coating on which the sticker will be applied.

If the impregnation of the base material was done efficiently, then almost all the wallpaper should come off. You don't need to scrub too hard with a spatula to completely clean the surface. This procedure will not only damage the wall putty, but will also take a lot of time. The remaining pieces of paper that have not been removed should be re-treated with liquid, wait a while and remove.

This “wet - wait - tear off” method is well suited for paper bases. But with vinyl or acrylic coatings you will have to tinker a little. Their upper layer practically does not allow water to pass through.

To remove such wallpaper, you must first remove the top layer. In principle, it can be easily removed: just grab the corner of the coating material and pull it down. And then treat the remaining part with liquid to remove the lower base.

Rules for preliminary wall preparation

In most cases, after removing the old wallpaper, places of chips and cracks on the wall are revealed. They should be cleaned and puttied. When the putty dries, it is treated with sandpaper for the final

If there are sockets, switches and baseboards on the wall surface, then it is advisable to dismantle their covers, and the bare ends electrical wiring mandatory - reliably insulated for

A completely cleaned wall surface must be treated with a layer of a special primer or a weak solution of the selected adhesive with the consistency indicated on the packaging. He will create protective film coatings that provide good adhesion of the material.

Wallpaper technology

Selecting a starting point

Every House master When renovating an apartment with your own hands, you must determine where to start gluing. The answer to this question depends on the method of joining the blanks at the edges:

1. end-to-end;
2. overlapping method - laying sheets on top of each other.

Nowadays the first coating method is usually used. It allows you to start gluing from almost any place and work sequentially.

The second method has often been used in the past. To do this, a control strip ran on each side of the wallpaper roll. To make the overlaps invisible, the sheets were glued away from the window so that the light emanating from it would hide the connecting seams rather than highlight them.

• the most complex node, where there is vertical interference in the form heating pipes and various hanging structures;
• or from the most visible (large) angle.

Roll marking

First, it should be placed on the wall near the location of the selected corner, removing its distance less than 2÷3 cm of the width of the wallpaper. For example, if the roll has a size of 53 cm, then you need to measure 50 or 51.

Use a tape measure to measure the required height of the wall from floor to ceiling. Then unroll the roll on the prepared workplace and transfer the tape measure to it, creating a margin of 5 cm.

From the resulting point on the workpiece, draw a line perpendicular to the side. It is convenient to draw it using a construction square or simply fold the roll in half, aligning its edges. Using this marking, the workpiece is cut using scissors or a sharp mounting knife along a ruler or fold.

The marking of the next roll blank depends on the pattern on the wallpaper. If it does not require precise joining, then you can cut several strips at once, applying the cut piece as a template.

When it is necessary to combine a pattern, the consumption of wallpaper will be increased. To mark a new workpiece you will need:

• lay out the cut template fabric front part up;
• unroll the roll and match the pattern on it and the prepared workpiece;
• Mark the required length on the template and cut it from the roll from the bottom and top.

If you take into account the arrangement of the pattern on several rolls, you can reduce the length of unused sections and save material. Each workpiece should be numbered with reverse side or cut it off before impregnating the previous one. This eliminates the possibility of them being mistakenly pasted onto the wall in an arbitrary manner.

Rules for applying glue to wallpaper

The adhesive mass must be prepared according to factory instructions, following the technology and allowing time for the mixture to mature. Only in this case will it work effectively.

The strip prepared and cut from the roll is laid out face down on the work table, and the wrong side is treated with glue using a roller or brush. After impregnation, it is folded in half using the accordion method, placing two edges in the middle. The layers are pressed lightly, but do not put pressure on the fold. In this position, the strip is left for 5–15 minutes, necessary for the glue to be absorbed into the pores of the paper and its structure to be well impregnated.

If you use colored adhesive compositions, it will be easier to visually assess the uniformity of its distribution over the surface of the wallpaper material, which will reduce the likelihood of creating unglued areas.

All wallpapers with paper base swell from moisture, increasing their size. So that this process does not have different influence on the quality of the sticker, you should observe the same time of impregnation with glue.

The order of placing wallpaper on the wall

Let's look at an example modern way end-to-end stickers of blanks. It is convenient for him to arrange them sequentially in a circle, using, for example, a clockwise direction.

Take the prepared strip with glue impregnated by the upper edge and apply it to the top of the line near the ceiling so that the side of the workpiece strictly adheres to the drawn vertical line on the wall.

Press the wallpaper with a dry rag or rubber spatula, creating a slight pressure on the glue using the herringbone method. Using movements from top to bottom and from the center to the edge, rub the surface of the base, achieving a tight fit to the wall and removing the air cushion.

If swellings with air bubbles have formed on the surface of the workpiece to be glued, then they need to be pierced with a thin needle in the center and excess air or glue should be released in a circular motion from edge to center. This must be done because the resulting cavity will not allow the wallpaper to stick securely to the wall.

After gluing the first strip, proceed to the second and then, moving clockwise, glue each subsequent blank to the opposite corner of the wall.

The joints between the strips are carefully smoothed so that they are less noticeable.

When gluing wallpaper above sockets and switches, small holes are made in them with a cutter, which serve as marks for the locations of electrical switching devices.

On the next wall, the entire sticker stage is repeated from the moment of marking a vertical line near the adjacent corner for the width of the roll. The first strip is glued along it, and the rest are sequentially distributed to the opposite corner.

Features of wallpaper stickers on wall corners

Workpiece strips on internal and external corners glued so that one edge of the workpiece overlaps the adjacent wall, and the next strip is glued with a slight overlap of up to 2-3 cm.

Features of wallpaper stickers near window openings

At the side surface of the window, measure a strip of wallpaper that will need to be glued. An incision is made on it at the place where the window sill and slopes protrude. The workpiece is impregnated with glue in the usual way and pressed against the wall.

Measurements are also taken above and below the window opening, and strips are cut according to them and glued to the wall.

Features of wallpaper stickers near radiators

The wall plane behind the radiators has difficult access and limited space. Wallpaper is usually not completely glued to it. They are placed only at the edges.

To do this, just cut off an extra piece from the workpiece, place it over the edge of the battery and press it with a spatula.

Important reminder: after finishing working with glue, pour the remaining glue into a hermetically sealed container, for example plastic bottle with lid. They will soon be needed for gluing defective areas.

How to properly dry pasted wallpaper

To ensure reliable adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall, it is necessary to withstand the drying technology of the adhesive composition. It must harden simultaneously on the building structure and inside the fibers of the impregnated paper.

To do this, it is necessary to ensure stable conditions of temperature and humidity:

• close all windows and doors in the room to prevent drafts;
• disable heating devices to prevent temperature changes;
• limit the access of people to the premises as much as possible.

Final work on the sticker

Normal glue drying usually lasts 18-24 hours, and with high humidity it increases up to two days. It is important to maintain this period and only after its completion is it allowed to cut off excess pieces. You cannot cut wallpaper that is in a semi-moist state. Their wet structure is very fragile. It will not allow you to smoothly remove unnecessary parts.

Excess pieces are cut off with a cutter, and a straight spatula with a blade length of 20 cm or more is used as a guide.

A layer of glue is reapplied to the loose edges with a small brush and the surfaces to be glued are pressed tightly.

Sometimes in hard to reach places or on a curved surface you have to glue the wallpaper using the overlapping method. Their appearance can be improved in the following ways:

• a metal ruler is placed in the middle of the gluing;
• cut through both layers with a cutter;
• remove the cut pieces from both sides;
• re-coat the surfaces with glue and smooth the joint with a soft rag.

Closing covers on sockets and switches

Marks are found on the wallpaper, indicating places for the covers of sockets and switches. They probe the outline of the switching device housing under the finishing material and cut out an extra piece of the workpiece along it.

After this, all that remains is to remove the previously installed insulation layer and screw the protective decorative cover to the front panel.

In conclusion, we recommend watching Andrey KMV-Stroy’s video “How to glue non-woven wallpaper.” For general development look at the questions to him and his answers right under the video.

Among the extensive list finishing works, which you can do at home with your own hands, wallpapering takes one of the first places. However, the question: how to glue wallpaper with your own hands raises many questions. Since childhood, everyone has seen how wallpaper is glued, and by adulthood, they have tried to do it on their own at least once and know which wallpaper is best to glue, how to calculate, how many rolls will be needed, whether one person can handle the job.

But the construction and finishing materials industry is moving forward inexorably. Old “grandmother’s” techniques, when newspaper was used instead of putty, no longer meet the new quality standards. When we glue wallpaper with our own hands, we should know and follow modern technologies plastering and painting works.

Where to begin?

The question of which wallpaper is best to glue should be approached with all seriousness, if this type of finishing is not a “firefighting” measure to hide wall defects in a rented room, but a way to give the apartment a cozy and modern look, the interior of which will not change for at least 2 years. 3 years.

You should start by preparing the walls, removing everything that will interfere with work. Remove ceiling (foam) and floor skirting boards. Remove all nails, screws, and anchors from the walls. Remove the covers of sockets and switches. Electrical wires are carefully insulated. No matter how smooth it may seem, the wall should be cleaned of old wallpaper and layers of paint or lime.

To do this, use wallpaper removers (produced by well-known brands: Metylan, Quelid, Kleo, Staratel, etc.). Using a wallpaper remover will significantly reduce the time.

old water-based paint or whitewash can also be successfully soaked with these products. Due to the presence of surfactants (surfactants) in their composition, the liquid penetrates deeply into the old paint, making it loose and easier to clean off with a metal spatula.

After cleaning from old paint or wallpaper, the wall must be swept with an ordinary broom or mop to free it from dust and pieces of old wallpaper (paint). After that - process acrylic primer. To do this, use a paint roller with a long handle.
One person can carry out the preparatory work.

Alignment of walls

Visually it is very difficult to determine how level the wall surface of the house is. For testing, use an aluminum rule with a length of at least 1000 mm. In places where the wall has unevenness, make marks with a bright construction pencil. After this, they begin to level the walls.

Rough alignment is carried out gypsum plaster(Rotband, Prospector, etc.) If there are no differences on the wall of more than 5 mm. You don’t have to plaster the wall, but putty it directly. The trade offers a large selection of both ready-made (paste-like) putties and dry mixes for home use. Most good choice There will be Vetonit LR gypsum putty (for dry rooms), very flexible and easy to use.

After the putty has dried, the wall is cleaned with an abrasive mesh wrapped around a sanding block. Dust is swept from the wall with a broom.

The wall is treated with an acrylic primer to give the putty density and moisture resistance.

Cutting out the wallpaper

Before starting work, thoroughly clean the floors of your home. The room should be free of debris and dust. If you need to go into another room while working, take off the shoes you are wearing. The slightest pebble or sliver stuck to the surface of the wallpaper can lead to irreparable defects.

Rolls of wallpaper should be checked against the batch numbers indicated on the packaging. Sometimes there may be a mismatch in the warehouse, and wallpaper from different batches may not match in pattern or tone.

If you find a roll of wallpaper from another batch, do not open the plastic packaging! A printed roll cannot be exchanged in the store.

Each manufacturer gives recommendations for gluing on the back of the wallpaper label. Follow these recommendations carefully. This is especially true for the choice of glue recommended by the manufacturer and the time required to saturate the base with glue.

Plain wallpaper should be cut strictly in accordance with the height of the room. Make allowances of more than 20 mm. do not do it. When the wallpaper gets wet, it stretches a little, and when the excess dries, it can lead to warping and peeling off the wall.

Wallpaper with a pattern requires special attention. After you have cut the first strip, you should lay it with the pattern up and applying the roll to it on the side to ensure that the pattern on the next strip completely matches.

For cutting wallpaper, it is best to use a long, well-sharpened kitchen knife. At the cut point, the wallpaper is bent and the folded area is ironed with force. After this, with light movements of the knife along the fold, they are cut off. Using scissors is awkward and never achieves a perfectly straight edge.

It is advisable to cut out all the wallpaper at once. After cutting, the wallpaper is stacked, face down. The edges are aligned as much as possible. This work is easier to do with two people.

Preparation of glue

Preparing glue is not difficult. The glue you choose is dissolved in a container of water, following the manufacturer’s recommendations on the packaging. You should not reduce or increase the amount of water. Pour as much as specified by the manufacturer.

Never use warm or hot water to make an adhesive solution, unless you are going to use homemade paste for the sticker.

Modern adhesives based on modified starch contain a large number of additives that prevent mold from forming and being eaten by insects (termites, cockroaches). IN hot water these additives are destroyed and the effectiveness of the fungicidal (antifungal) properties of the glue is reduced. In addition, starch in hot water can form lumps, which, when applied to wallpaper, will inevitably form defects after the wallpaper dries on the wall.

You should always pour the glue into the water, and not the other way around! The water in the container (bucket, basin, keg) is strongly rotated with a long stick and glue is poured into the resulting funnel in a thin stream. It is necessary to use the entire volume of dry glue. You cannot add glue to the prepared solution. Immediately after stirring, the glue has a flaky structure - swelling of the starch grains occurs. Therefore, this glue cannot be used directly after dissolution. It should be allowed to brew for at least 30 minutes. After this, mix thoroughly again. The glue should have a uniform translucent (like jelly) structure without lumps or flakes.

If you notice them, leave them for a while longer for the starch to completely dissolve.

Wallpapering

When we glue wallpaper ourselves, we usually work together. It's easier. This saves not only time, but also energy. But with certain skills, one person can glue wallpaper.
First apply glue to the wall. In corners, along the ceiling and floor, it is better to do this with a wide paint brush from natural hair. Having coated a section of the wall around the perimeter, approximately equal in width to the strip of wallpaper, the remaining surface is treated with a paint roller. This speeds up the process significantly.

The glue is also applied to the wallpaper strips with a paint roller. How much glue is applied is not important; its excess is removed during the process of smoothing it to the wall. When dry, it becomes transparent and invisible.
After applying glue to a strip of wallpaper, it must be folded in such a way that the lubricated surfaces are in contact with each other. Especially thick wallpaper.

It is more convenient to fold the wallpaper in such a way that each edge falls approximately in the middle of the length of the wallpaper strip. It will be easier to straighten the strip before gluing. After this, the wallpaper is rolled into a loose roll and left for 10-20 minutes so that the glue is well absorbed into the base.
There is no need to be afraid that the glue will dry out or the wallpaper will stick together. Usually at least 1 hour passes before setting begins.

Wallpaper should always be glued away from the window. The first strip is placed on the wall along a line made using dry-dyed cotton thread. To do this, use a construction plumb line. You can use a long (at least 1000 mm) building level or a laser tool (level) that allows you to build vertical lines.

One person holds the top of the strip of wallpaper, while the other aligns it from the bottom. After that, the person at the top smooths them out using a wide plastic wallpaper spatula. First in the center of the strip, and then, with smooth movements from the center to the edges, trying to completely remove air bubbles and squeeze out excess glue.

When gluing, both workers should have large, clean, dry rags with them to wipe off excess glue.

You should not smooth the wallpaper with rags - you can damage the top layer of wallpaper, smear unstable paint or erase the metallic pattern.

In corners, around heating pipes, in places adjacent to door jambs or wallpaper frames should be trimmed. To do this, it is best to use a retractable construction knife with replaceable blades or a special device for cutting wallpaper in the corners. To cut round holes, use scissors.

At the junction of wallpaper strips, if the edges do not match, the strips are glued overlapping (50-70 mm). After this, a metal ruler or rule is taken, applied to the junction of the wallpaper and two layers of wallpaper are cut through construction knife. Then the strip that is inside is removed. The resulting strips are perfectly aligned with each other. The joint area, as in other places when gluing wallpaper end-to-end, is rolled with a special wallpaper roller (not wide 40-50 mm, rubber, with rounded edges), especially thick wallpaper.

If the wallpaper has dropped below the wall and lies on the floor or on the door trim, you should immediately trim it. Otherwise, when drying, they will warp and fall away from the wall.

When gluing wallpaper and during drying, it takes from 24 to 72 hours, windows and vents in the room must be closed, and the room must not be ventilated.

Is it possible to glue wallpaper horizontally? Of course you can. But it’s better to do this in hard-to-reach places: behind heating radiators or above windows if the wallpaper is without a pattern.

Let's sum it up

Pasting wallpaper is not difficult, and even interesting. Although it requires certain skills. If you have the appropriate tools at hand and follow the technology, this is not a problem even for a person taking on this task for the first time. For some, this activity is even interesting in terms of self-affirmation.

One of the most popular types interior decoration - wallpapering. But in order for the result to please you, you need to know how to glue wallpaper correctly. Eat sufficient quantity nuances that affect the quality of finishing.

Preparatory stage

First, everything in the room that can be removed is removed, including door frames and baseboards, if possible. They also remove sockets and switches, closing the boxes with wires with plugs - plastic or wooden.

Turn off electrical outlets

When working with electricity, we de-energize the room and do not turn it on until we are finished. It is advisable to carry out all work, including wallpapering, with the power turned off. The work is “wet”, and water or glue can get on the wires and short out. If the wiring is done according to all the rules and there are protective circuit breakers, this is not a big deal. They'll just turn off the power and that's it.

If the wiring is still done in the old way, it can be dangerous. The worst part is that in this case there is often no way to turn off the power in a separate room. Only in the entire apartment or, in best case scenario, in her half. Then the solution is to remove the power wires from the sockets and switches (with the power off, of course) and carefully insulate the ends, then hiding them under plugs. Then you will have to unwind them and put them back in place, but it will be safe.

Lighting during work is temporary - extension cords are pulled from other rooms and portable lamps are turned on. Once you have dealt with electricity, you can move on.

Sealing irregularities

Here you will first have to assess the condition of the walls. First you need to remove all the nails and screws, remove chips and repair cracks. Then examine the results. If the walls are more or less even, there are only small defects, you can get by with occasional leveling. Only cracks, dents and chips are repaired. You can cover them up finishing putty. Just before leveling, completely clean the wall of dust and pieces of wallpaper, and then cover it with a primer (with a wall roller and a brush in the corners).

If the wall has been “treated” with a hammer drill, you cannot do without full putty of the entire wall. Mostly today they use gypsum putty. First, apply a layer of primary or starting. It has a coarser grain and the layer can be up to 3-5 mm. This composition is used to level out the main unevenness, trying to achieve a smooth surface. After drying, they pass through a special mesh, removing any unevenness or sagging that may exist.

After being used finishing putty. It is very flexible and can be applied thin layer- up to 1-2 mm. After this, the wall becomes smooth (after the irregularities have been smoothed out with a mesh, only with a smaller mesh).

Primer of walls

The second layer of primer is applied after puttying. It forms a film on the surface that reduces the absorption of the glue and also improves adhesion. For wallpapering, you can use a thinner wallpaper glue as a primer. Each pack has a table indicating the amount of water for gluing and priming. We dilute the glue in the required proportion, wait for it to be ready (also on the package) and cover the walls with the composition. The priming technique is the same: first go over the corners with a brush, then with a roller on smooth surfaces.

In the video, for some reason, the use of primary putty is called plaster, but otherwise the sequence of actions is presented correctly.

Rules for gluing

When wallpapering there are several rules that must be followed. The technique varies depending on the type of wallpaper, as does the glue, which is necessary for a quality result. the difference is mainly in when and where to apply the glue. You don't have to guess. Everything is on the insert, which is included on each roll of wallpaper. there in graphical form it is depicted, and in some it is written, which part should be coated with glue: only the wall or only the wallpaper, or maybe both at once.

But some things remain the same. For example, applying a starting strip.

Where to start

In reality, the starting location is not that important. It is important that the first strip is glued strictly vertically. Therefore, the choice is yours.

If the room has a perfectly designed corner: smooth and exactly vertical, you can start from there. You can start from a door with a perfectly aligned jamb. If there is nothing like that, draw a guideline for yourself. Take a building level, mark a point on the wall and draw an exact vertical line through it. Inexpensive building levels household class, which we usually use during repairs, sometimes give a significant error. And since it is important for us to stick the first strip strictly vertically, check the accuracy of the line using a plumb line. He never lies, pointing straight down. If everything is fine, you will align the edge of the strip along this line.

If you still haven’t decided where to start gluing wallpaper and this is your first experience in this area, start with the wall that is least visible. For example, the one along which there is a closet. The first couple of pages will be difficult for you, but then you will better understand what’s what and there will be fewer flaws.

How to glue wallpaper on a wall

If glue, at the request of the manufacturers, is applied to the cut fragment, the smeared strip is folded so that the coated side is inside. To do this, fold the edges towards the middle, then fold them several more times. The folds are not pressed. Let them remain round. This is necessary so that all layers are saturated and the canvas fits well on the wall and also sticks without bubbles.

If you need to apply glue to the wall, coat an area slightly larger than the width of the wallpaper. The area under the ceiling, in the corner and near the floor is coated with a brush. Then the rules are general.

Take the cut strip and climb up the stepladder. Place the top edge a few centimeters on the ceiling, then align one of the edges along the drawn “start” line. Since wallpaper today is glued end-to-end, it doesn’t matter which edge.

Strictly attaching the side edge to the line, moving from this line to the other edge, glue the wallpaper in the ceiling area. Then, gradually moving down, you go down a little lower.

Extra centimeters on the ceiling are cut off. It is more convenient to do this with a paper knife and a large spatula. Press the paper well against the corner by running your hand. Then apply a spatula. Run a knife blade along its edge.

Trimming under the ceiling and near the baseboard

When gluing the canvases, movements are made from the center of the strip to the side and slightly downward, expelling the trapped air to the edges. Previously, this was done with a rag, but it works better and faster with a roller with an elastic nozzle (it is usually yellow color). There are practically no bubbles when working with it. But if the wallpaper is structural, with an embossed pattern, you can crumple it with a roller. Then take a wallpaper brush. It is wide and flat, with hard pile.

Wallpaper brush for quick pasting

Having reached the place where the strip is not yet glued, unroll the rest tightly and proceed according to the same pattern. First, you expose the edge, then use a roller or rag to expel the air, achieving a flat surface.

The second strip is glued in exactly the same way, with the only difference being that the canvas already on the wall will serve as a guide for gluing the edge. That’s why it’s important to glue it evenly, otherwise everyone else will also be mowed.

Secrets of pasting corners

The most difficult part to glue wallpaper correctly is in the corners. But this is only until you know the secret. You can try to do it simple at first. Wrap one of the parts onto the adjacent wall by 1-2 cm, and cut the second at the corner.

It’s not difficult to do, this method looks good. But on some wallpapers this stripe is very visible. For such a case, there is another way. Glue the canvases on both sides of the corner so that they wrap at least a little on the other side (2-3 cm is enough). Press well so that they fit exactly. to the walls and corner.

Then take a special cutter or large spatula. Press it in the corner, cut the wallpaper along its edge with a sharp knife. It is necessary to cut both sheets at the same time, so considerable effort may be required. To ensure a continuous cut, do not tear off the knife. Having stopped, move the spatula, which you rest against the blade and then continue the cut.

Having cut everything off, remove both cut strips and join the remaining strips in the corner. If the wallpaper was pressed well before trimming, the match is perfect, without any discrepancies.

How to glue wallpaper on outside corners? Almost in the same ways. In the first case, one of the stripes is wrapped around the corner by one or two centimeters (for thicker wallpapers, 2 cm is better, for thin ones, 1 cm is enough). The second strip is glued strictly along the corner. If this overlap is visible (usually on non-woven wallpaper), you will need to cut along the entire strip. In this case, we wrap more and cut vertically using the same spatula and knife. We remove the cut and glue the joint.

Meter-long wallpaper in the corners is glued in the same way as narrower ones. It happens that a narrow strip is needed in a corner, and the rest is cut off. If the wallpaper is without a pattern, it can be used somewhere, at least in another corner. With patterned canvases, sometimes it is also possible to attach them somewhere, but this is more difficult to do. That’s why they take patterned ones with a decent supply: just for such cases.

How to glue vinyl wallpaper on paper, how to remove imperfect corners in this video.

How to glue wallpaper near doors and windows

If the door or window is flush with the plane of the wall, problems usually do not arise. Wallpaper is cut lengthwise door frame or along the edge of the platbands. The canvas is cut at an angle of about 45° to the corner of the casing or frame. The cut parts are wrapped along the opening, bent and then cut off with scissors or a knife. It’s smoother and faster using a knife and spatula.

How to glue near the door

The option that causes more difficulties is when it is necessary to cover the slope of a door or window. When using paper wallpaper, the principle is again simple: glue the strip onto the slope, extending it 1 cm onto the wall. We glue a piece on top exactly along the cut of the window opening.

But this method will not work with wallpaper on non-woven fabric: the “overlap” is too visible. In this case, the strip is cut along the window opening with a small margin. Another fragment is glued on top with an overlap, cutting them exactly along the cut of the window opening. The glued piece is wrapped inside, onto the slope. Then they join as before.

It's difficult to explain in words. It’s more accessible in video. By the way, it also contains a story about the design of wallpaper for arched openings.

How to make joints invisible

Care must be taken to ensure that the joints of the canvases are invisible during gluing. You need to connect the canvases so that there is no gap between them, but also so that they do not overlap one another even by a millimeter. A perfect match must be achieved.

Because it's perfect smooth walls Unfortunately, we don’t see them very often; it turns out that the seam either creeps in a little or diverges. Your task is to move the canvas so that it becomes perfect and invisible. You can move the canvases with your hands - they can slightly stretch and contract. Due to this, you achieve the required match. If the resulting defect is too large and nothing can be achieved by shifting, the strip is peeled off to this place and, having corrected it as necessary, is glued again. Sometimes, if the seam is sticking out a little, rolling it with a special tapered roller can help.

With this technique, it turns out that first the edge is glued, which is joined, and then, from it, they begin to smooth out the rest of the surface of the canvas. If you have examined the seam and are satisfied with the result, take a clean rag and wipe it off any excess glue that may have come out during all these actions.

To learn how to glue meter-long vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven backing and how to make the joint invisible, watch the video.

Eliminating shortcomings

If there is a lack of experience, it may happen that bubbles appear on the walls after or during drying. You can remove them with simple steps. Take a large syringe, fill it with glue, pierce the bubble and inject some glue into it. Vinyl wallpaper, acrylic, paper - the top part is unimportant. The actions vary depending on the basis. If the wallpaper is paper-based, wait five to seven minutes; if it is non-woven, act immediately.

How to remove bubbles from wallpaper

Seams come apart quite often. Wallpaper may peel along the thread or baseboard. There are two ways to glue them. Use a brush and the remaining glue or buy a special one for seams. It comes in a tube and is applied precisely. And again, the procedure depends on the base. After wetting the paper, wait a while, then glue it, making sure the edges match.

Wallpapering walls is, without a doubt, one of the most popular ways of decorating rooms. Draping rooms with fabrics and tapestries has been known since ancient times - even in the Middle Ages, there were entire communities - workshops of artisans and upholsterers, whose skills were highly valued and were constantly in demand. Over time, natural fabrics were mostly replaced by cheaper paper trellises, that is, they acquired approximately the appearance that we are accustomed to now.

Certainly, modern wallpaper are no longer produced only from paper - polymer components and various natural materials are actively used. But the most important thing is different: a convenient form of their release, good adaptation to various building structures, established gluing technologies, high-quality adhesive compositions - all this significantly facilitates the process of such finishing, and for this it is not at all necessary to be a professional craftsman. If there were any statistics on this matter, then, of course, it would show that the vast majority of families wallpaper their walls themselves. Naturally, not everyone succeeds in doing this right away - everyone has errors, and sometimes even damaged sheets, at first. But it’s good that there is the Internet - you can always find a hint on how to glue wallpaper correctly, avoiding the most common mistakes.

Which wallpaper should you choose?

Main types of wallpaper

The modern range of wallpaper is extremely wide. The buyer has the opportunity to choose a finish to suit every taste - according to material, color and relief design, in terms of operational and environmental characteristics and, naturally, in terms of affordability. Let's take a brief look at the main types of modern wallpaper:

• Paper wallpaper is the “old-timer” among finishing materials. They attract with their low price, wide variety of designs, and relative ease self-gluing. True, they do not differ in durability, as well as in resistance to moisture and, even more so, to wet cleaning, so they are more suitable for residential premises and are not recommended for finishing the walls of kitchens, hallways, bathrooms, etc.

One of the main advantages of paper wallpaper is the environmental friendliness of the material and good vapor permeability - the wall remains “breathable”.

However, paper wallpaper may vary. The simplest ones are single-layer wallpaper, or, in other words, “simplex” type. They are usually thinner than multilayer ones and are less resistant to all external influences, and when gluing them, special care is required - paper soaked in glue is easy to tear.

Two-layer (“duplex”) wallpaper is of higher quality. The bottom base layer is responsible for reliable fixation of the finish on the wall, and the top layer provides the necessary decorative effect. Such wallpapers are denser, the quality of printing on them is higher, with greater detail, and often they have, in addition to being colorful, also a relief embossed design.

Pasting such wallpaper on the wall is much easier, since it will not “creep” when wet or change its linear dimensions greatly.

Paper wallpaper can be smooth, have the already mentioned embossed embossing, or have structural surface. During the production process, crushed wood waste, which gives the surface a chaotic structural pattern. Typically, such wallpaper is produced in monochrome (most often white) and is intended for pasting walls for further painting. This approach is convenient because if the battles are pasted well, then the owners will have the opportunity to change the color that has become boring over time - the coating can withstand several cycles of repainting.

In addition, paper can be the base layer for other types of wallpaper - this will be discussed below.

• Non-woven wallpaper. Relatively recently, non-woven paper has become a serious “competitor” to ordinary paper. In fact, these two materials are “relatives” since both are made on the basis of natural cellulose, and the only difference is in the technology of its processing. Thus, non-woven fabric is also considered completely environmentally friendly, and is even used in medicine.

On that non-woven material Paint also applies easily, printing designs can be applied, and it can be embossed, although in terms of variety of designs, non-woven wallpaper is still inferior to paper wallpaper. Due to the fact that the material is less hygroscopic and much less susceptible to soaking and accompanying deformation, it has become an excellent basis for the manufacture of wallpaper. We can say that among all types of wallpaper, non-woven wallpaper is the easiest to apply, and even an inexperienced master should be able to cope with the task.

In other words, non-woven wallpaper, while maintaining the main advantages of paper wallpaper, is still a “step forward”, as it has many advantages, including greater durability and resistance to external influences. The only thing they seriously lose in is availability, since their price is already significantly higher.

Another one important feature, which can be considered both as a disadvantage and as an advantage. Non-woven wallpaper has a translucent structure, so that the background of the wall surface can even be seen through purely non-woven wallpaper. This is not always a good thing, but on the other hand, why not take the opportunity to give the wall an interesting shade!

Like paper, non-woven fabric can be used as a base layer for other types of wallpaper.

To be more precise, these are two-layer wallpaper on a paper or non-woven basis, with an external decorative coating made of polyvinyl chloride.

The outer polymer layer is not dangerous high humidity, abrasive loads, so the finished wall can be subjected to periodic cleaning, including the use of detergents. This, in principle, determines the scope of application of such wallpaper - they are ideal for the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, hallway. But for residential premises, especially for a bedroom or a child’s room, it is better not to use such finishing - the walls will not “breathe”, condensation may appear on them, and many may not like the light characteristic “aroma” of PVC.

Vinyl wallpaper is quite heavy, so a special composition is required for gluing it - this is always indicated on the packaging.

In terms of design, vinyl wallpapers are very diverse: from textured patterns with deep relief to multi-colored bright canvases, including those with photo printing or with a very reliable imitation of stone, wood, and other natural materials.

• Fabric wallpaper, also on paper or non-woven backing, is quite an expensive pleasure, although, we agree, it gives the walls a very unusual design. They can be made from linen, silk, jute textiles, felt, velor.

Fabric wallpaper gives the room a special coziness, and adds insulation and sound insulation to the walls. However, this finish attracts dust well, which can become firmly lodged between the fibers, so cleaning with a vacuum cleaner will have to be carried out with enviable regularity.

Pasting such wallpaper is the domain of experts, and beginners should not undertake such an activity - there is a high risk of ruining a very expensive material.

There are other, more “exotic” types of wallpaper - based on fiberglass or fiberglass, natural materials - cork, bamboo or palm fibers, quartz and metallized (foil) decorative coverings. We will not dwell on them, since the scope of application of such finishing is not wide, and independent sticker without relevant experience is simply impossible.

Many have heard about " liquid wallpaper" But this is already on a different plane altogether, and the finishing technology is closer to plastering work, rather than sticking sheet material.

What is “liquid wallpaper”?

This technology gives a very interesting effect of decorating walls. , and even how to make the material necessary for this with your own hands - read in the special publication of our portal.

Before purchasing wallpaper, owners must clearly decide which performance qualities of the material should prevail.

For residential premises, especially bedrooms and children's rooms, emphasis should be placed on the environmental friendliness of the material - it is necessary to maintain a healthy, breathing-friendly atmosphere and completely eliminate the possibility of allergic reactions. At the same time, it is a good idea to choose a material that can still be subjected to light wet cleaning at least occasionally.

But the kitchen requires coatings that will have to be washed frequently - greasy fumes from the stove will inevitably fall on the walls. For cramped hallways, wear resistance will probably come to the fore, for a bathroom - the hydrophobicity of the outer layer.

If there are a lot of people in the room sunlight, you should pay attention to wallpaper that is resistant to fading, otherwise ultra-violet rays will quickly ruin the original appearance of the finish. Pets can also make their own adjustments - for example, cats often show obvious indifference to the soft, pliable surface of vinyl wallpaper.

The style of decorating a room with wallpaper is a personal matter for the owners, although there are certain recommendations in this regard. They can be found on the pages of our portal.

When decorating rooms with wallpaper, you must adhere to certain canons

For example, decorating a room for sleeping requires a special approach, so it is important to know how to do it correctly. If desired, you can create an exceptionally cozy one. And another article from the portal will be useful to those apartment owners who want a wall in the room.

When buying wallpaper, you should not only listen to what the sales consultant tells you, but also independently read the labels on the packaging of the rolls. There must be pictograms that carry a lot of extreme useful information. Examples of such markings are shown in the table below:

Type of marking icon	Decoding the meaning of the icon	Type of marking icon	Decoding the meaning of the icon
	Low moisture resistance, only for the period of wallpapering		Wallpapering does not require matching the pattern
	Regular wet cleaning of wallpaper is allowed.		Symmetrical arrangement of the pattern to be combined when sticking, horizontal alignment
	Wallpaper with increased resistance to moisture, unlimited quantity wet cleaning.		The pattern to be combined when sticking requires shifting the sheets by half the repeat, diagonal placement of the pattern
	Wear-resistant coating that allows wet cleaning with a brush.		Repeat - the vertical step of the pattern (numerator) and the amount of displacement of the sheets to align it (denominator)
	Increased wear resistance of the wallpaper surface, unlimited amount of wet cleaning using brushes and detergents.		The wallpaper is glued overlapping and leveled by cutting through both layers
	Low resistance to ultraviolet sunlight.		Glue is applied to the wallpaper
	Wallpaper of satisfactory light fastness.		Glue is applied to the wall
	Good resistance to ultraviolet rays.		Wallpaper with an applied adhesive layer, which is activated by soaking
	Wallpaper with high UV resistance.		TO this species wallpaper can be offered accompanying Decoration Materials- borders, cornices, curtains, etc.
	Wallpaper with maximum resistance to ultraviolet puddles.		Duplex wallpaper with a paper base and an embossed top layer
	Wallpaper with increased surface resistance to mechanical stress (impact, scratching, etc.)		Wallpaper is removed entirely, dry.
	All sheets of wallpaper are glued in one direction.		The wallpaper peels off when removed from the wall.
	Reversible wallpaper - each sheet is turned 180°.		Removing wallpaper from the wall requires moisture.