Homemade radiator: features of registers, convectors, oil radiators, heaters from car radiators. What homemade heating radiators can be made - design options

Purchasing heating batteries nowadays is not a problem at all, because the market offers a huge range of such products of various capacities, configurations and materials of manufacture. However, in some cases it is advisable to use homemade radiators heating, which we will talk about later in the material. Although in a residential building such batteries will not the best solution, a workshop or garage can be heated with such a device.

Homemade radiator design

To create a battery from pipes with your own hands, you will need products with a cross-section of 100 mm and a length of 2 m. Their end parts will need to be closed with plugs and welded, and on the surface of the pipe, welded pipes for the coolant inlet and outlet from the heating system will need to be welded.

Required tools and materials

To make a radiator from a pipe with your own hands, you will need the following consumables and equipment:

pipe 2 m long and 10 cm in diameter;
VGP pipes 30 cm long;
sheet steel 3 mm thick, size 10×60 cm;
bends of a given diameter;
Bulgarian;
welding machine with electrodes.

Now you can get to work.

Method for creating a battery from pipes

We offer detailed instructions on how to make a battery from pipes with your own hands, which will help you avoid mistakes in operation.

So, first of all, a long and thick pipe is cut into three equal sections. To make it smooth, you need to apply markings to the pipe in advance.

On each segment, with an indentation of 5 cm from the ends, two holes with a cross section of 2.5 cm are cut, located at 180° to each other. In this case, you need to use a welding machine. At the end of the work, scale should be cleaned from the pipes.

6 round plugs with a diameter of 10 cm are cut out of a sheet of steel, and the end parts of the pipes are closed with them using welding.

A thinner tube is cut into two parts with a grinder and welded to the previously made holes of 2.5 mm in diameter on the large pipe.

On last stage Weld the bends onto the inlet and return circuits. At this point, the assembly work can be considered complete.

To check the reliability and tightness of a home-made heating radiator made from pipes, you need to shut off one outlet and then pour water into the structure. This way, you can check whether the radiator is leaking, and if so, where exactly. If imperfections are found in the structure, you need to drain the water and re-weld all the seams where leaks were found.

It is worth noting that installing heating pipes without radiators will cost significantly less than purchasing industrial batteries.

Some nuances

Before you begin to implement a plan for arranging heating from metal pipes without radiators, it is worth considering some subtleties. First of all, you should take care of the procurement of materials and select its configuration. It shouldn't be difficult to get the material. Best to buy steel pipes large section.

You can additionally save on materials if you look for pipes the right size and diameter at the scrap metal collection point - there will definitely be something suitable there.

As for the main characteristics of materials, the most important of them is heat transfer. Based on this parameter, the power of the heating device is determined. For further calculations, we will use data typical for standard cast iron radiators.

radiator weight;
mass of coolant in the battery;
surface area of the heating device;
thermal conductivity of the material.

Comparing the parameters of cast iron and steel, we can conclude that they are not much different.

However, one of the main differences between factory radiators is that industrial products larger area heating surface. However, this difference is compensated for by the slightly greater heat transfer of steel compared to cast iron.

Real calculation example

To demonstrate how to calculate the size of a homemade radiator, here's an example. For the calculation, we will take an industrial cast iron radiator with 10 sections. The volume of each section is 1.5 liters of water with a power of 160 W. If we compare such a battery with a homemade radiator, it turns out that its volume should be at least 14.5 liters of water.

To assemble heating from pipes without batteries, a standard steel pipe with a cross-section of 10 cm and a wall thickness of 3.5 mm is usually used. Then its internal diameter will be 9.5 cm, and its cross-sectional area will be almost 71 cm.

If we divide the total required volume of liquid by the cross-sectional area, we will obtain an approximate value of the length of the pipe, which will allow us to obtain the required thermal power. In our example, it will be 2 m 5 cm. Therefore, to assemble one radiator, you will need a steel pipe of exactly this length.

Radiator installation

To install heating radiators from metal pipes with your own hands, it is important to have some practical skills and a certain amount of basic training. In addition, it is worth taking care of the availability in advance complete set tools that you may need during your work so as not to be distracted and make mistakes.

Tools required for work:

adjustable wrench;
spanners for installation;
drill with drills;
level, tape measure and a simple pencil.

Having prepared your workplace and equipment, you can begin installing homemade radiators. Naturally, if you plan to replace old appliances with new ones, then the failed heating batteries should first be dismantled.

In short, the technology for installing radiators will look like this:

First of all, you need to decide on the location of future radiators and make markings for installing fasteners under them.
After the brackets are secured, you can hang homemade batteries on them.
On next stage a homemade heating system for a private house with pipes without radiators is equipped with shut-off elements - plugs and taps.
Then a head with a tap is installed, which will be required to activate the entire system.
At the final stage, newly installed heating devices from pipes are connected to the general heating system.

To avoid mistakes, we will provide more detailed instructions on how to make heating from metal pipes.

So, before starting work on installing heating pipes around the perimeter of the house, all areas where heating devices will be located must be prepared - plastered, painted or lined with some material. Once the batteries are installed, this will no longer be possible.

If there are old radiators in the heating system, all devices installed behind the heating boiler must be dismantled.

It is worth noting that when installing a heating system without pipe radiators, technological clearances must be observed. There should be at least 3 cm from the wall to the surface of the heating device, and at least 10 cm between the pipe and the floor.

To avoid mistakes during the battery installation process, it is advisable to first draw up detailed plan, in which to indicate the places where they will be located. Then the diagram will be before your eyes, and you will see what needs to be installed and when.

At the next stage, couplings must be installed on the incoming and outgoing flows. Then, to remove from the pipes air jams As a result of the launch of central heating lines, a Mayevsky tap must be installed on a homemade radiator.

The next step is to prepare the thermal head. It is necessary to install a special tap and valve under it. Please note that the valve should be located at the inlet to the radiator, and the tap should be on the return circuit. During operation, all connection points must be sealed with sealant or FUM tape so that leaks do not occur during operation of the batteries.

At the end preparatory activities You can proceed directly to the installation of a heating system without radiators.

In cases where the heating system will contain several heating batteries at once, you will need a water level to operate. He will help mount the system in such a way as to achieve the correct pressure in the line.

Now you can fill the heating system in a private house without radiators with water. To do this, you need to open the taps to remove air pockets. Then water is poured into the circuit using expansion tank or supply pipe. Please note that when pouring water into the pipe, a low power pump will be required.

What errors may occur during the installation process

Very often, during the installation of heating devices from pipes, workers allow technical errors, which may subsequently affect the performance of the system. Here are the most common ones.

If the radiator was installed lower than 7 cm from flooring, this can significantly complicate cleaning underneath them, and will also lead to disruption of heat exchange in the room. But in cases where the radiator hangs further than 15 cm from the floor, significant temperature changes will be felt - your feet will be cold.

In addition, installing batteries close to the wall can also affect the quality of heat transfer, since the level of heat loss will increase. Installing additional screens or decorative grilles in front of pipe radiators will also reduce their heat transfer.

Replacing old radiators

If you decide that old heating devices need to be replaced, then dismantling and updating them should be done in the summer. Since the heating system is turned off at this time of year and is not filled with coolant, removing and installing homemade or industrial radiators will not be difficult.

Replacement of old equipment may be necessary in cases where they are too worn out and do not provide sufficient quantity heat, or residents want to reduce or increase the number of sections in radiators. In case of execution installation work the surface of the walls behind the radiators can also be updated.

But remember that all work on the wall surface - plastering, painting or cladding - is carried out before installing the radiator.

Factory heating devices

It is worth noting that heating batteries are produced from pipes and industrial enterprises. As a rule, this is equipment that includes two collectors - upper and lower. They are connected to each other by vertical tubes installed in two or three rows. At the same time, these devices do not have fins, which would increase the area of the heat-transfer surface, as in standard cast iron radiators. Heat exchangers on such batteries are made of pipes with a cross-section of 2.5 cm, and collectors with a diameter of 5 cm.

The maximum pressure level that such batteries can withstand is 12 atmospheres. They are resistant to corrosion because the inner surface of the pipe is galvanized. The wall thickness of steel pipes is 1.5 mm.

The layout of the radiator in relation to the collectors can be:

with parallel heat exchanger;
with a perpendicular heat exchanger.

Considering technical features heating radiators made of pipes, they can be successfully used both in public institutions and residential urban buildings. The products have an attractive appearance and fit harmoniously into any environment. Moreover, the absence of sharp corners on tubular radiators makes it possible to install them in kindergartens and primary schools, as well as hospitals and clinics.

Another positive point is that cleaning such a radiator from dust will not be difficult, since there are no fins on it.

We hope that this material will be useful for you and will help you avoid mistakes when making and installing a homemade radiator from pipes.

Heating devices are an essential element of any water heating system. They are usually the most expensive part. A good opportunity to save money would be to use homemade radiators. They are made from smooth round steel pipes or from profile pipes. The latter option is somewhat more expensive, but allows you to reduce the depth of the device and get a more aesthetically pleasing appearance.

Usage profile pipe for the manufacture of heating registers has a number of features. When starting to work with your own hands or deciding to buy a “homemade” product, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons. Studying the basic rules by which heating registers are made from a profile pipe will help you avoid mistakes when independent work and will make it possible to make a competent choice of the necessary parameters.

Design of heating registers

Heating devices in the form of registers are a structure of several vertical or horizontal pipelines connected to each other using jumpers. In this case, the connecting elements may have different shape and size. Depending on their location, classification is performed.

Register structure

For the manufacture of heating registers, smooth carbon steel pipes with a round cross-section, as well as square and rectangular ones, are used. Their combined use is possible. Good materials for registers there can also be stainless and galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, brass, but they are much more expensive and more difficult to process with your own hands.

Heating registers made of steel profile pipes are considered the simplest to make. They can be made in two main configurations: sectional type and coil type (S-shaped).

In a sectional type register, several sections of profiled metal with capped ends are arranged in parallel and connected to each other by round tubes of smaller cross-section. The jumpers ensure that the rows of the device are filled with coolant from both sides simultaneously. Moreover, the closer to the edge the transition pipes are installed, the higher the heat transfer of the device.

In a coil register, the liquid passes in an S-shape through rows of profile pipes, gradually cooling. To add rigidity to the structure, additional blind jumpers are used. Horizontal rows are connected in pairs by a snake using tubes of a smaller cross-section, like in sectional models, or sections of the main profile. The latter option is preferable due to lower hydraulic resistance and greater heat transfer.

Connecting pipes are made with threads or welding. Most effective option connecting the heating device is a diagram from top to bottom. For low models and in the case of forced circulation of coolant, entry and exit from below may be justified.

The design of the register must include a Mayevsky valve or an automatic air vent. It is located at the end of the top row on a threaded fitting to allow replacement. A prerequisite for installation is to maintain a slope of 0.05% in the direction of coolant movement.

Registers can be either stationary or portable. The first ones work as elements common system heating, the latter perform the task of local heating. The heat source for a separate mobile register is a heating element with a power of 1.5-6 W, mounted in the housing.

Important! The distance between register rows significantly affects heat transfer. The closer the pipes are to each other, the greater their mutual influence, which reduces the efficiency of the device. It is recommended to place the rows at a distance of at least the height of the profile pipe, increased by 50 mm.

In addition to large horizontal registers, small vertical models are also in demand. If you carry out the work carefully, you can get homemade cheap heating radiators from profile pipes that are almost as aesthetically pleasing as modern sectional radiators.

In some cases, steel registers may be good addition to the heating devices already installed in the room. Despite the lower heat transfer than radiators of a similar size, their use may be more appropriate due to their lower cost.

High vertical registers are very convenient for high rooms or near high window openings. They can successfully fit into the interiors of rooms with unusual design solutions. By experimenting a little with color and shape, you can get a creative decoration from simple heating devices.

Advantages and disadvantages of profile pipe

Most often, heating registers are made of smooth water and gas pipes round section. They are cheaper, have better hydraulic characteristics for transporting coolant, and greater tensile strength with a small wall thickness. What is the reason for the use of profile pipes for the manufacture of registers?

Heating radiators made of square and rolled metal rectangular section have a number of important advantages:

compactness of the device in depth;
the ability to give an attractive appearance;
greater surface area than round pipe the same height;
additional opportunities for creative design non-standard premises;
They are relatively easy to make with your own hands and do not rotate during operation;
can be made from pipe scraps left over after construction work.

However, there are also plenty of disadvantages:

the profile pipe is not intended for transporting liquid;
lower resistance to water hammer and high pressure;
The length of the welds is longer than that of similar round pipe registers, which increases the likelihood of leaks and reduces the overall reliability of the device.

Thus, before deciding on the advisability of using registers made of profile pipes, you should evaluate all possible options, carefully analyze the operating conditions and requirements that heating devices must meet in each specific case.

Selecting parameters

The heating register parameters are determined based on the required heat output. The most exact values gives a detailed thermal engineering calculation of heat loss through the enclosing structures, but since it is quite labor-intensive, we will consider alternative options.

Very approximately, for a typical insulated room with a height of no more than 3 m, you can take 1 kW of thermal power per 10 m 2. More accurate values can be determined from the table below, depending on the quality of thermal insulation and the volume of the room.

Heat dissipation 1 m.p. profile pipe is determined by the formula:

Q=K ·F · ∆t,

K- heat transfer coefficient, W/(m 2 0 C), for single pipe K= 11.3 W/( m 2 0 C);

F– pipe surface area, m 2, F = 2 (a+b) l,

Where a And b are the dimensions of the cross-sectional sides, and l– pipe length, respectively, m;

∆t– temperature pressure, 0 C, ∆t= 0.5·(t 1 + t 2) – t to,

Where t 1 And t 2– temperature of the coolant at the inlet and outlet of the device; t to– temperature in the room.

The required pipe length is calculated by dividing the required thermal power by the heat output of 1 m of pipe. The number of rows is determined by rounding up and is determined by the availability of free space and the configuration of the room. For the obtained number, the heat transfer value is specified taking into account the mutual irradiation of the pipes using a reduction factor of 0.9 for each row.

The length of the register can be taken structurally, taking into account the characteristics of the room and the location of the equipment. For example, if there is a large window, then it is desirable that the length of the threads be no less than the size of the window, creating a wide thermal curtain for cold air.

Advice! In some cases, it makes sense to take the length of the register across the entire width of the room. This will ensure the most even heating of the room. For objects such as greenhouses, this is especially important.

The section of the profile pipe is taken either based on the available material, or is selected by trial calculations and finding optimal combination cross-sections and row lengths of the heating register. The most commonly used pipes are 60*40, 60*60 and 80*60 with a wall thickness of 3 mm. Large cross sections are not desirable, since the increased volume of coolant will create additional load on the boiler.

On a note: It’s better not to skimp on wall thickness. The thicker the pipe wall, the longer the heating device will last. It will be able to withstand large pressure surges and is more resistant to corrosion.

Based on the calculations carried out, the final selection of heating register parameters is made and a drawing is drawn up. Order according to accepted sizes heating device or you can make the register yourself.

Making registers yourself

Steel registers have a fairly simple design and do not require much skill to create. Almost any person who has experience working with a welding machine can make homemade heating radiators from a profile pipe. Unlike round ones, they are conveniently fixed in place, which makes welding easier.

Required materials and tools

Before starting work, you need to stock up on everything you need. Let us consider in detail what is required for the simplest three-row register.

Materials:

Profile pipe in accordance with the design parameters. Dimensions can be from 30x30x3 to 80x80x3 mm.
A round pipe with the same wall thickness with a diameter of 25 or 32 mm depending on the cross-section of the profile pipe.
Steel sheet 3 mm thick.
Branch pipes with external or internal threads in accordance with the diameter and type of connection – 2 pcs.
Steel coupling with internal thread with a diameter of 15 mm and Mayevsky tap.

Tools:

Welding machine.
Drill.
Bulgarian.
Hammer.
Marker or metal rod.
Roulette.

Preparation of materials:

The profile pipe is cut into pieces of the required length in accordance with the drawing.
The round pipe is cut into 4 pieces of 10 cm each.
From sheet metal 6 plugs are cut out in accordance with the size and shape of the profile pipe. They should be 3-5 mm smaller than the cross-section of the pipe. This will allow you to neatly hide the weld in the gap.
The pipes are laid on a flat horizontal surface strictly parallel at a distance of 10 cm. You can use two wooden beams for support. The ends are aligned in one line. Marks are made for the holes at a distance of about 5-10 cm from the edge.
Using a cutter or drill, the intended holes are cut in accordance with the diameter of the jumpers.

Work order

The jumpers are fixed in place and secured by welding at 2-3 points.
Having positioned the structure vertically, the jumpers are finally welded. It is recommended to first make a thin seam at low current, which will allow the gaps to be filled well. Next, a thick main seam is performed at increased current.
The internal space of the register is cleared of metal debris and slag.
The plugs are applied, tacked and welded to the ends of the profile pipes.
Processed welding seams. The protruding parts are knocked down with a hammer, then each seam is cleaned with a grinder.
Holes in the register are drilled depending on the selected connection diagram. In this case, it is better to place them not in the center of the ends, but slightly higher or lower.
Connecting pipes are welded to the holes.
The seams are cleaned and all holes except one are plugged. The register is filled with water under pressure and the welding quality is checked. The seams must withstand pressure up to 13 atm.
The outer surface is cleaned, degreased and painted with heat-resistant paint.
A fitting is welded to the top row and a Mayevsky valve is installed.

Sometimes supports are welded to the register, but devices without them are more versatile. If necessary, you can always use a stand, but the weight is less and you can still mount it on the wall.

Conclusion

Homemade radiators made from profile pipes are well suited for heating large premises. Mains-powered devices are convenient to use at sites of periodic use: construction sites, garages, workshops, cottages. Stationary registers find their application in production workshops, greenhouses, warehouses and other technical facilities.

They have a fairly simple design, which makes them relatively easy to manufacture. This allows you to make steel registers yourself, which provides significant cost savings. If you wish, you can be more sophisticated and create analogues of modern designer models, which can become not only effective sources of heat, but also interior decoration.

The installation or reconstruction of a heating system involves the installation or replacement of heating devices. Good news The idea is that, if you wish, you can handle this yourself without the involvement of specialists. How heating radiators should be installed, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and Supplies. The set of necessary materials is almost the same, but for cast iron batteries, for example, the stubs go big size, but they don’t install a Mayevsky faucet, but instead, somewhere at the highest point of the system, they install an automatic air vent. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - they come with brackets, and on the back panel there are special arms cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This is a small device for releasing air that may accumulate in the radiator. Placed on the free upper outlet (collector). It must be on every heating device when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is significantly smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so you will also need an adapter, but Mayevsky taps usually come complete with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connection dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be placed on radiators, but they have a slightly big sizes and for some reason they are produced only in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

The side-connected radiator has four outputs. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they install a Mayevsky valve. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves that can be adjusted. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repairs, replacement during heating season). In this case, even if something happens to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the disadvantage is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it less), and they look better externally; they are available in straight and angular versions, so the harness itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can use the coolant supply after ball valve install a thermostat. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of a heating device. If the radiator does not heat well, you cannot install them - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different thermostats for batteries - automatic electronic ones, but more often they use the simplest one - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

if there are no more than 8 sections or the length of the radiator is no more than 1.2 m, two mounting points on top and one on the bottom are sufficient;
For every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

You also need fum tape or linen winding, and plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (preferably a level, but a regular bubble one will do), and a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cut off the cold from the window. To prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heating device must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It must be installed:

How to install correctly

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation(if there is a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole is drilled in the wall suitable diameter, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can support even lightweight aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or covered with plasterboard, it is required floor installation. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators They go straight on legs, but not everyone is satisfied with their appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, the lower collector is secured with an arc to installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height and some with a fixed height. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Options for piping heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators involves connecting them to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

saddle;
one-sided;
diagonal.

If you install radiators and bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with a side connection ().

Strapping with one-sided connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be double-pipe or single-pipe (the most common option). Still used in apartments metal pipes, therefore, we will consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on pipes. In addition to pipes of suitable diameter, you need two ball valves, two tees and two bends - parts with external thread on both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. At single pipe system a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or draining the system. You cannot put the tap on the bypass - you will block the flow of coolant through the riser, which is unlikely to make your neighbors happy and, most likely, you will be fined.

All threaded connections compacted with fum tape or linen winding, on top of which packaging paste is applied. When screwing the valve into the radiator manifold, much winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except cast iron. When installing all the others, please do not be fanatical.

If you have the skills/opportunity to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

At two-pipe system no bypass needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower entrance, taps, of course, are needed.

At bottom wiring(pipes are laid on the floor) this type of connection is done very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly, it is much better in this case to use a diagonal connection.

Strapping with diagonal connection

Installation of heating radiators with diagonal connections is the most best option from a heat transfer point of view. In this case it is the highest. With lower wiring this type The connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - the supply on this side is at the top, the return on the other is at the bottom.

A single-pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look as good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With bottom wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and least noticeable.

With a saddle connection and lower single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed; if necessary, you can remove the radiator and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeegee (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen rarely - the heat losses are too large (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators

Installing a heating system in a private home is the main task of any person who wants a comfortable and safe life. Stove heating is not relevant for a large room, since the coefficient useful action designed for only 20-30 m2.

The radiator system is a significant expense, so savings are the main aspect to pay attention to. Why spend a lot of money on something you can do yourself? Savings on metal parts and fittings are about 90% of market value finished equipment.

Advantages of homemade radiators

The main advantages of do-it-yourself radiators:

An opportunity to express yourself, your imagination and give the room an interesting look.
Independent assessment of heat loss or heat transfer, drawing up an individual installation plan, according to the characteristics and purposes of operation of the residential premises.
Use of available materials, spare parts and equipment.

In order to make a battery with your own hands, you will need:

welding machine (not necessarily powerful);
electrodes;
sheet of stainless steel of special strength (from 3 mm), size 100x500 mm;
steel pipes: grade VGP Du-25, 20 cm long; length 2 m, diameter 100x3 mm;
squeegee brand Du-25, length 100mm x 2 pcs.;
plug brand DN -25 x 1 pc.;
grinder with a circle for metal (grinding machine).

Note: It is best to use cast iron: although it is heavy, it is much cheaper than, for example, aluminum. The disadvantage of cast iron is its fragility, so you will have to work with it carefully.

Let's start making a homemade radiator

Let's look at the progress of the work point by point:

To cook load-bearing frame, steel pipes are required. For greater efficiency and heat transfer, it is better to use pipes large diameter. Scrappings or scrap metal will do - the main thing is that they are in good condition and are not covered with rust. If the pipe has threads or other metal elements, then they need to be cut down. All pipe edges must be smooth, without burrs.
Calculate the power of the future radiator system. In order to correctly distribute batteries around the house, you need to record the square footage of the living space.

Expert advice: feel free to take calculations for standard cast iron pipes, you can't go wrong!

For example:

We measure the primary indicators: outer diameter of the pipe = 12cm; internal diameter of the pipe = 9.5 cm; thickness of the outer wall of the battery = 3.5 cm; cross-sectional area = 7.8 cm.

You can add your own nuances to the design of the battery: if you often experience airing of pipes, freezing of water or heating fluid, or water hammer, then install a special swivel-type valve. At the right time, you can easily restore pressure in the system.
The battery can have any number of sections. It all depends on the type of room where it will be attached:

in a large room (more than 30 m2), it is advisable to install a three-section radiator;
for a bedroom, office or children's room, a two-section is enough;
for basements, storage facilities, storerooms, where it is necessary to maintain a minimum positive temperature at any time of the year, you can install a single-section radiator.

Before you start working with the angle grinder, clear some space around you. Make sure the extension cord is at a safe distance .

Specialist's note: Remember safety precautions when working with power tools!

Take a large diameter pipe and cut it into 3 equal parts.
In each part, make holes at an angle of 180 degrees and a diameter of 2.5 cm, using a power tool with a ballet-shoe attachment. Pay attention to the distance between the holes: they need to be made by measuring 5 cm from the end on both sides. As a result, you will get a design in which the holes are located both in the lower and in the upper parts of the pipe.
Clean pipes and sharp edges of holes with coarse grit sandpaper from metal shavings.
Next, take a thin pipe with a diameter of 20 cm and measure it in the middle. Then cut with a grinder to make 2 pieces of 10 cm each. Weld these pieces of pipes to the structure of large pipes, so as to form a cross-shaped water circulation system.
Cut thin rods and weld them to the opposite side of the structure made of large pipes. Thus, you will get a rigid and stable frame that can withstand strong water pressure.
To secure the resulting frame, install the brackets: one bracket is welded to the inlet hole, and the second to the outlet.

Good to know: In order to check the radiator for leaks, it is necessary to close the lower outlet with a plug. Fill the upper outlet with water and observe: if there is still a leak, then drain the water, dry the radiator and weld the gap.

If you have central or steam heating, you can make a battery from ordinary plastic water pipes. They are light weight, low price and quick to install.

To increase the temperature in a living room or apartment, a pipe structure is welded to a ready-made profile battery. These manipulations are subject to approval by the chief engineer of the housing and communal services and registration with state utility services.

The danger of carrying out this type of work by an incompetent specialist is that the registers will record a decrease in pressure and such “work” will lead to airing of the water supply system of the entire residential building. To avoid trouble, you must completely turn off the water supply and block the inlets.

It is important to know: Under no circumstances should you embed homemade structures without the presence of a specialist. A sharp water hammer can lead to depressurization of a welded radiator.

As practice has shown, 15-16 battery ribs are needed per 20 m2. This is quite enough to support optimal temperature at +20 degrees Celsius.

Watch the video in which a specialist explains how you can make a heating radiator with your own hands:

Homemade radiators, welded from large-diameter pipes, are used to heat industrial and utility rooms, which do not have special requirements for design and beauty. They have good efficiency and are inexpensive. What do you need to make a heating radiator with your own hands? This is exactly what we will tell you about in our review.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade radiators

Homemade heating radiators are complete heating devices. They will be an excellent solution for heating warehouses, production workshops, corridors, basements and other non-residential premises. For their manufacture, large diameter pipes are used, welded together with jumpers and fittings. Some varieties are welded from bent pipes, resulting in radiators with a serpentine design.

Radiators of a serpentine design do not require jumpers, but it is necessary to use fittings to strengthen them.

The large area of the pipes used provides fairly good efficiency and good heating. In order to improve heating, the pipes are made long - up to the point that their length reaches the length of the room itself. What are the advantages of homemade heating radiators?

Absolutely simple design– every person who knows how to work with tools and a welding machine can make a heating battery with their own hands;
Minimum costs for materials – purchasing inexpensive or used pipes will provide significant savings;
Ability to work in systems with natural and forced circulation;
Possibility of installing a heating element with a thermostat for autonomous operation.

Not without certain disadvantages:

The need to own a welding machine - if you have never done welding, then it is better not to take on such work;
The need to comply high quality welds - finished radiators must withstand high pressure;
Low efficiency when compared with factory batteries - here they lose a little.

The construction of homemade heating radiators is recommended in cases where the installation of a heating system is carried out under conditions of a limited budget. Also, their use will be justified if cheap or completely free materials are available (for example, if there are free pipes or the opportunity to purchase them at a bargain price).

The main disadvantage is that pipe radiators cannot be used in apartments. They do not meet safety requirements and are cumbersome. Therefore, they are recommended for use only in non-residential premises.

Design features

How to make a heating radiator with your own hands from pipes? First you need to decide on the design of the radiator. Sectional varieties are the most widespread. They consist of several large-diameter pipes connected to each other using jumpers made of smaller-diameter pipes. Increased structural rigidity can be ensured by welding small sections of reinforcement.

The most popular types of radiators for self-production.

The number of pipe sections can be any. To heat large rooms, long sections are used, almost the entire length of the wall - often they consist of only two pipes. If compactness is needed, then the sections are shortened and their number increased to the required limits. Connecting jumpers in such radiators are installed near the ends, which ensures good passage coolant.

Sectional radiators have a simple design, but the use of pipes of different diameters prevents the normal passage of coolant - high hydraulic resistance affects it. Therefore, as an alternative, you need to consider radiators in the form of coils. Here are their advantages:

Easy to assemble - you just need to find the bent elements;
Low resistance provides more efficient heating;
More durable and reliable design.

The coils are welded from separate elements, straight and bent, ensuring the unhindered passage of coolant through the radiator. To give the structure increased strength, lintels made of durable reinforcement are used.

Making a homemade radiator

Let's see how to make a heating battery with your own hands using an example sectional radiator. We will be heating a large room, so we need a large radiator three meters wide, consisting of four pipes. For assembly we will need:

Four sections of pipe three meters long (diameter 100-120 mm);
Sheet metal for the construction of plugs;
Ordinary metal water pipe for jumpers;
Fittings – since the radiator is large, it is necessary to give it additional rigidity;
Threaded fittings.

The tools you will need are a grinder (angle grinder) and a welding machine (gas or electric).

We cut off plugs, jumpers and pipes of the required length. Then we cut out the holes for the jumpers and weld them. The last step is to weld the plugs.

If the pipe was intact, cut it into four three-meter lengths. We process the edges of the pipes using a grinder so that the cutting is smooth. Next, we cut eight plugs from a piece of sheet metal - we will cut fittings into two of them later. We cut the water pipe into pieces, the length of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipes used (by 5-10 mm). After this, we begin welding work.

Our task is to connect four large pipes with each other using jumpers. To add additional rigidity, we add reinforcement jumpers. We place the pipe jumpers near the ends - here you can retreat 90-100 mm. Next, we weld our plugs to the end parts. We cut off the excess metal on the plugs using a grinder or welding, whichever is more convenient for you.

When carrying out welding work, you need to pay attention Special attention the quality of welds - the reliability and strength of the entire radiator depends on this.

1. Lateral connection;
2. Diagonal connection;
3. Bottom connection.

Next, we proceed to install the threaded fittings on the side plugs. Here you need to decide how the coolant will flow - Based on this, you can choose a diagonal, side or bottom connection scheme. At the last stage, we carefully clean all our connections with a grinder so that the radiator acquires a normal appearance. If necessary, coat the radiator with paint - preferably white.

When everything is ready, you can start testing the radiator - to do this you need to fill it with water and inspect it for leaks. If possible, you should supply water under pressure, for example, connect a radiator to the water supply. When the check is completed, you can begin installing the radiator into the heating system.

Today heating systems are laid using small-diameter plastic pipes, using circulation pumps to move the coolant. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure high-quality fastening of the radiator so that it does not break the pipes. It is best to hang it on several metal pins driven into the wall, or mount it on metal floor supports.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in building a heating radiator with your own hands - you just need to get the necessary materials and handle their welding. When selecting materials, carefully inspect them for defects. Pipes must be intact, not thinned, with a minimum of traces of corrosion. If the metal is too thin, then it is better not to use such a pipe - the wall thickness should be from 2.5 mm. To subsequently protect the radiator from corrosion, it is advisable to degrease, prime and paint it.