Construction how to install an interior door. How to properly install an interior door: detailed instructions
One of the most last stages in apartment renovation - installation of interior doors. Usually people hire professionals for this, but knowing certain nuances and approaching the work with care, you can install the door yourself. As a rule, independent installation work allows you to save about 1500-2000 rubles. If you are determined to install on our own, then before that, read the instructions given in this article for installing an interior door.
To get the best results, you must have good tool. But this option can cost you a lot, so if you're missing something, rent it for the day.
For installation wooden door required:
- a circular saw or hacksaw with a miter box, for cutting parts at an angle;
- screwdriver – indispensable assistant, which should be in every home;
- an electric cutter or chisel to create indentations in the wood;
- hammer drill with adapter for drill, for installation work;
- hammer, level, pencil;
- hatchet for making wedges;
- yardstick;
- nails with small heads, dowels, self-tapping screws, construction foam, wooden beams for wedges.
Preliminary preparation
- Using an electric router or chisel, make recesses for the hinges on the door leaf. In this case, there should be a distance of 20 centimeters from the edge of the loop to the edge of the canvas above and below.
- Cut off door slopes at an angle of 45 degrees. Then place them on the door and mark the places where the hinges will be on the jamb. Use a chisel or router to make a recess for the door hinges.
- Place the hinges into the recesses on the door leaf and use a drill to drill holes for the screws to prevent the wood from cracking. The diameter of the drill should be less than the diameter of the screws. After this, screw the hinges to the door.
Handle fastening with latch lock
- Turn the door horizontally and drill with a drill at a height of 90 to 120 centimeters on the side opposite the hinges large diameter recess for installing a latch.
Latch insertion process - Insert the latch into the recess and trace its perimeter with a pencil. Using a router bit, make a recess for the face plate of the valve.
- Insert the valve body into the recess; it should be flush with the end of the door. If everything is in order, then pull it out.
Handle attachment process - On a surface door leaf Make marks for the holes for the handles and drill them.
- Insert the latch back into the finished recess from the end and secure it with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled the holes.
- Use self-tapping screws to secure the door handles and secure decorative overlays. They are usually secured using a hex key.
Box installation
Now let's figure out how to assemble the door frame.
- Trim the ends of the cross door frame circular saw or a hacksaw for smooth joining.
- A doorway made from slopes should be 4-6 millimeters wider than the canvas. The dimensions and thickness of the door frame can vary greatly, usually with a height of 2 meters, its width is 60-80 centimeters. With a height of 1.9 meters, the width is usually in the range of 55-90 centimeters. The thickness of the box is approximately 15 to 40 centimeters.
- Using a drill, make holes at the corners of the posts to connect the box.
Note! Some doors that come complete with slopes and platbands have ready-made fastenings. In this case, there is no need to drill anything; they are attached to each other using the included plastic pegs, which are driven into the corners.
- Then shorten the slopes to the size of the door leaf, while leaving the necessary gaps. Door installation technology requires 15 mm gaps between the floor and the door.
- Fold the box elements into a U-shaped structure on the floor and connect with self-tapping screws through pre-prepared holes.
- In the grooves where the hinge will be attached, make one through hole for attaching the box to the wall. Using a large screw or dowel, secure it only at the top for now.
- Level the box so that it is in a vertical position and secure it with a self-tapping screw from below.
The process of attaching the box to the wall - After fastening, there should be a gap between the jamb and the wall, into which wooden wedges are placed. After this, tighten the screws to ensure a rigid connection.
Note! Installation of doors in wooden house- especially difficult work, since the period of tree shrinkage after construction can reach 6 years! During the year, fluctuations in the height of the house can be up to 5 centimeters, so the doors often “lead” and do not close. To avoid this effect, you can use a removable casing on the side of the handle, which, if necessary, is removed from the door frame, increasing its width.
Hanging the door
- The next stage is installing the doors into the frame. The door is hung using self-tapping screws, while the hinges will hide the fastenings to the wall.
- After hanging, the door should not open and close on its own.
- IN top part drive wooden wedges into the box to secure it.
- Now you need to secure the striker plate for the latch. To do this, close the door and make a mark with a pencil opposite the deadbolt. Drill a hole of the required size in the jamb with a drill.
- Then you need to fix the second side of the box. Close the door and visually check the size of the gap; it should be equal along the entire length between the frame and the leaf.
- At the level drilled hole for the bolt, insert a wooden wedge between the wall and the frame and secure it through with a dowel or self-tapping screw to the wall.
- Then securely fix the box using additional wedges, and screw the locking bar into place, hiding the screw fastening with it.
Filling gaps with foam
- Cover all face strips with masking tape to avoid getting them dirty with foam.
- Moisten the gap with a spray bottle and fill all the gaps between the trim and the wall with foam. It is better to use industrial foam applied with a gun. It is denser and expands less when drying.
Advice! To prevent the structure from “moving” when the foam dries, we recommend inserting spacers into the gaps near the door leaf, or three wooden spacers between the side posts of the frame.
- Once the foam has dried, you can trim off the excess and remove the masking tape.
Fastening platbands
- The trims are joined together at an angle of 45 degrees; to do this, they need to be cut evenly with a circular saw or a hacksaw with a miter box (see).
- Cover the surface of the jambs where the casing will be attached with silicone sealant.
- Attach the cut trim and secure it with pins or small-headed nails.
- The grooves from the nails are covered with colored mastic to completely hide the fasteners.
This video demonstrates the installation of a door on an exhibition stand. It should be noted that installation for an exhibition differs from the actual installation of a door in an apartment or office, since an exhibition stand does not require high strength. Therefore, we do not recommend installing anchor bolts under the canopies and connecting the frame posts at an angle of 45 degrees, as shown in the video, because this leads to weakening of the structure.
If you have everything necessary tools(or you can rent them), and you also have a couple of hours, then it’s worth trying to install the door yourself. The main thing is not to rush, do it conscientiously and carefully check everything with a level before fixing it, then you will definitely succeed!
Almost any novice craftsman who has minimal experience handling a level and a hacksaw for wood. No special skills are required here. It is quite possible to install a door block in your home yourself. You just need to measure everything correctly before installation, and during the assembly process, make sure that no distortions occur.
Required materials and tools
Large set of tools and Supplies It is not required to install a wooden interior door. This is not a sewerage, electrical or plumbing installation in a private home. In the case of a door block, all consumables (anchor bolts, self-tapping screws, nails, handles and awnings) are already included with the product. Additionally, you only need to purchase polyurethane foam.
Installing doors yourself is not so difficult, but nevertheless this work requires attention and certain skills
to install interior door, the tools you will need are:
- fine-tooth hacksaw;
- building level;
- tape measure with pencil;
- screwdriver (screwdriver);
- chisel;
- hammer.
You will also need small thin pieces of wood for spacers so that the door does not jam after foaming. Polyurethane foam expands two to three times in air. To prevent the canvas and jambs from moving when applying it, you will need to first insert wedges in several places while the adhesive sets and hardens.
Step-by-step instruction
If the installed interior doors exactly fit the existing opening, then it is recommended to install them at the final stage of renovation of a cottage or apartment. Then, when the ceiling has already been whitewashed and the wallpaper has been hung. But if the doorway needs to be widened, then this work should be done at the rough finishing stage. A lot of dirt and dust is generated when breaking walls.
Step-by-step instructions for installing interior doors
Direct installation of interior doors with your own hands is carried out in six steps:
- Assembling the box.
- Installation of hinges.
- Door leaf canopy.
- Installation of thresholds and extensions.
- Fastening platbands.
- Installation of door fittings (locks and handles).
Box assembly
When studying which pipes are better for plumbing and easier to install, you have to consider many metal and plastic options. WITH door blocks much easier for interiors. Almost all of them are made from lumber. Structures made of plastic or aluminum are extremely rare in private homes. As a result, when installing interior doors, you only have to work with wood, which is not so difficult.
Types of door frames
There are two ways to assemble a wooden door frame:
- cutting the corners of the top crossbar and vertical posts at 45 degrees;
- connecting crossbars and posts end-to-end without corner cuts.
The first option looks more elegant. However, the second one is easier to cut yourself. Only with it you need to be very careful when cutting the side on the top crossbar so that the vertical bars fit smoothly and without gaps. At the same time, it is recommended to choose the method of assembling the external frame of the interior door depending on the interior design.
Required dimensions and tolerances for door frame assembly
To prevent the canvas from sitting too tightly in the box later, when cutting the crossbar, an additional 3 mm should be added to the left and right. Fastening horizontal and vertical parts It is done in the corners from above with self-tapping screws into the end of the racks from the outside. And so that when screwing in these screws the bars of the box do not crack, you must first drill into the holes with a thin drill (a millimeter thinner than the fastener).
At the same time, the supporting post, where the hinges will be, should not be pulled tightly to the end at this stage of door installation. It should only be lightly fixed in its intended place.
Installing hinges
The hinges are first hung on the canvas with an indentation of 200–250 mm at the top and bottom. Hinges for interior doors can be overhead (“butterflies”) or hidden. The first ones are enough to be attached to the end with the inner small part and secured with self-tapping screws. And for the second, you will have to pre-cut the grooves.
Necessary measurements for installing hinges
Next, the canvas is inserted into a box laid on the floor. And the places where the hinges are attached to the racks are marked. But first, between the end of the canvas and the parts of the box, you need to insert pieces of wood (pieces of fiberboard) 3 mm thick, so that there will be gaps there later.
Then the supporting post, which is not fully tightened, is unscrewed from the crossbar and the loops are screwed to it. And then it is put in place and finally fixed with self-tapping screws.
Door leaf installation
After the almost completely assembled interior door should be placed in the opening and adjusted vertically and horizontally using a level. To fix the block in the desired position, wedges and pieces of wood are used.
Sealing cracks, holes and installing extensions
Between outside block and the end of the wall, it is allowed to leave a gap with a thickness of 0.5 to 3 cm. But if the house is wooden, then this gap should be at least 1.5 cm in case of shrinkage of the log house.
Accessories options for interior doors
The box is secured anchor bolts, which are placed under the hinges and the lock plate. To do this, first vertical racks Holes are drilled on both sides to the wall. Then the block is removed and drilled by itself interior partition. If you use a drill without cleaning the box, there is a serious risk of accidentally damaging its decorative coating.
The box can also be secured with metal hangers. They are first screwed to the racks, and then, after bending them onto the wall, they are attached to it with dowel screws.
If the wall is thick, then you will need to install extensions (false slopes, additional beams). The box has a so-called coverage area. This is the interior space that needs to be decorated. Extensions are made from solid wood, fiberboard or MDF. After cutting under required dimensions they just need to be placed against the box and screwed to it with long self-tapping screws. Then, along the entire perimeter of the opening, spacer wedges and a spacer in the middle are also placed under them.
Instructions for installing the accessory
Then all that remains is to spray the mounting foam and leave the block closed for a while alone. It is recommended to continue installing the interior door the next day. The foam adhesive must completely harden and secure the door frame.
Installation of threshold and trim
The threshold and trim are installed after fixing the frame with anchors and polyurethane foam. The first is a metal strip with holes for dowel screws. It needs to be cut to the width of the opening, holes drilled in the floor and “nailed.”
Platbands for interior doors come in the following forms:
- semicircular;
- flat;
- teardrop-shaped;
- curly.
They are attached using lock connection(“tongue and groove”), nails or glue. Trimming them in upper corners doors are made at 45 or 90 degrees. In this case, the joints of the crossbar and vertical slats should be made as tight as possible. The slightest irregularities and errors during sawing will later be visible.
Options for arranging the threshold of interior doors
Installation of interior door fittings
At the end of the installation, locking fittings are installed. Moreover, usually for interior doors a two-in-one mortise product (handle + lock) is selected. Such a device can be of a rotary or push type. But in both cases the principle of operation is the same.
Installation mortise handle is done as follows:
- The canvas is marked at a height of about a meter from the floor.
- A hole is drilled for the fittings.
- A handle with escutcheons (sockets) is installed and bolted together.
- Opposite, a groove is cut out in the jamb beam for the tongue and a counter metal strip is installed.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a door arm
It is best to drill a hole with a crown of the appropriate diameter so that it turns out even. And the counter on the box and the mounting strip on the door leaf should be recessed so as not to interfere with the closing of the door.
To ensure that self-installation of interior doors does not end in failure, you should:
- Screw in all self-tapping screws only after drilling thin holes for them, otherwise the beam and canvas may crack;
- install the block strictly vertically (even if the slopes are crooked or at an angle);
- Properly dose polyurethane foam; a large amount of it can lead to distortion of the block;
- leave a gap of 10–15 mm between the canvas and the threshold to ensure natural ventilation.
Everything should be done carefully and without haste. Marking and cutting wooden parts should be performed only after two or three re-measurements. Removing an extra centimeter, much less adding it, won’t work here. This is cleaned and prepared for winter.
Interior doors can be used for years, but sometimes situations arise when they need to be replaced. The technology for installing interior doors has not changed since the invention of hinges. In order to install doors, their owners often turn to professionals for help, but this procedure can be carried out yourself, and the money can be spent on something more useful. Of course, you will need some knowledge, patience and work, but the result will be a worthy reward.
Of course, the door itself is not some kind of high-tech system, but it is also not a simple board closing the entrance to the room. The canvas should open and close easily, not creak, and be strong enough to “take a hit.”
To ensure the strength of the structure, the master must correctly assemble the box, which is the basis of the entire structure, install fittings on the canvas and the box - hinges, handles, latch, lock, fasten the box, hang the canvas evenly, adjust the mechanism as a whole, and complete the picture by installing extensions and trims. The first two steps can be performed in any order, but all other steps are performed sequentially. Depends on correct installation interior doors.
Installation procedure
Installation options may vary depending on the type of interior doors. Some are plastic as well metal-plastic doors are delivered to the buyer fully assembled. Let's not focus on them. An interesting option is when the box has not yet been assembled and consists of a series of wooden blocks of various lengths, the canvas is not decorated with fittings, and the trim strips are not cut.
Box assembly
The most complex and painstaking process- assembly of the box. Any errors and inaccuracies in the work may lead to subsequent difficulties in operation, and in the worst cases, the need to purchase a new product. You should not be lazy, be sure to pay due attention to all measurements - “measure 7 times, cut once!”
The installation of doors is fully regulated, good producers interior paintings always is detailed instructions for the procedure.
First of all, you should connect the box with the letter P. To do this, take bars (three pieces). If it is necessary to build a threshold, you will also need bottom beam plank In this case, the box will be four-sided.
The main task is to ensure the accuracy of measurements of the size of the opening, as well as the canvas, racks, lintel, taking into account all the gaps, even cutting of the bars at the points of their mutual connection, and high-quality assembly. It should be noted that the thickness of the beam should not be less than the thickness of the door leaf. Measurements should be taken using a tape measure, separately measuring the right and left sides of the opening and the canvas (they may not be mirrored). All the slightest deviations must be taken into account in further measurements.
It is imperative to leave a gap on the outer sides of the beam for mounting foam (at least 10 mm). WITH inside the gap may not be so significant, up to 5 mm. It is important to ensure there is clearance around the entire perimeter. In addition, you should leave a gap between the canvas and the floor, depending on the type of flooring. If it is linoleum - then about 10 mm, if it is carpet - 15 mm, for laminate - 10 mm.
The technology for installing interior doors requires cutting down timber for the frame. To make cuts correctly and evenly, you should use a special machine (trimming machine). If you don’t have a machine at hand (as happens in most cases of self-installation), a miter box with a hand hacksaw will do.
Let's look at two ways to connect parts of a door frame into one.
The first one was washed at an angle of 45 degrees. Not the easiest way for a non-professional. It requires increased attention to cutting accuracy. On the other hand, there is a reason to choose this option - a well-joined box, with this type of joint, looks great. In order to connect the components of the box, self-tapping screws are used, the holes for which are drilled through. It is necessary to drill perpendicular to the cut made. It should be noted very important nuance– holes are pre-drilled to prevent damage decorative surface. A drill is used, the diameter of which is equal to ¾ of the diameter of the screws. Cutting with self-tapping screws must be done along the entire length.
The second option is to cut at an angle of 90 degrees. It's very simple, but less aesthetic way. To complete the procedure, you can use a regular wood saw. For fastening, as in the first option, self-tapping screws are used. When calculating the size of the lintel crossbar, you should be aware that it is necessary to leave a distance between the false and hinged beams, which is equal to the sum of the width of the canvas plus 6mm for gaps. If the door has a threshold, the timber should only be cut at a right angle.
The box should be assembled on a flat horizontal plane (can be on the floor or in the entrance). Cardboard or plywood is placed on the floor covering.
Installation of fittings
The next step is to install the fittings on the canvas and the box. Rules fire safety suggest the need to open the doors outwards. Loops can be left or right, but most often universal ones are used. In our time high technology Hinge designs have appeared that do not require cutting off the part of the door surface necessary for their installation.
The space at the top and bottom is measured with a tape measure; it usually ranges from 15 to 25 cm. If the door is equipped with a third hinge, it is installed 50 cm from the top border of the door leaf. Also take into account gaps of 0.3 mm.
If necessary cut seats for hinges, you should know that the cutout should allow the flag to be installed flush with the box and canvas (flush). The cut is made using a milling cutter and finished using a chisel. If you don't have a router bit, you can finish the job using just a chisel.
The correct installation of hinges for interior doors is captured on video.
Most people find that it is much more convenient to secure the fittings at the initial stage, before assembling the box. Meanwhile, there is no particular difference in the order of these actions.
Where the door handle should be located is decided by the owner of the room. The standard distance used is from 90 to 120 cm from the floor. It is attached depending on its type and the presence or absence of a lock. Used in all cases fastening tool, which is included with the handle.
Securing the door frame
Three good screws are enough for fastening. Polyurethane foam will serve good addition to secure the structure more firmly. It must be remembered that before screwing in the screws, you should first drill holes for them.
It is better to secure the door frame with two people. It rises from the floor and is located in the opening, leaving the necessary gaps for the polyurethane foam. The door is leveled using wedges both horizontally and vertically. A level is used for measurement accuracy. If everything is correct and level, screws are screwed in to secure the box.
After installing the frame, the door leaf is hung and the door movement is checked. Uneven gaps and distortions are not allowed. The box is sealed with tape, and cardboard is inserted into the gaps around the canvas. Next, the door is closed, and used to fill the gaps polyurethane foam. You should not foam the entire space at once; it is better to approach it in several approaches.
Do not touch the door until the foam has completely hardened. If everything worked out, we can consider that the installation procedure is completed. Finishing touch– cleaning the space from construction waste and installation of platbands.
So, the procedure for installing interior doors is clear. Self-installation– great experience and savings Money. They value golden hands in any man and are proud of his skills and knowledge. Installing doors yourself is a way to prove your competence and skills to all your family and friends!
IN this material will be considered most important points, which you should pay attention to when installing interior doors. How to install an interior door yourself, which interior doors to install - this is a question that novice builders ask.
It should be noted that with great desire, minimal skills and a set of simple tools- this is quite real. Which interior doors to install is an individual matter, which depends on taste and financial capabilities.
Before installing interior doors with your own hands, you need the following tools:
- impact drill and drill bits for concrete;
- chisel;
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- building level;
- nail puller;
- axe;
- construction miter box;
- tape measure and pencil;
- goniometer
Removing the old door
Before installing interior doors, you need to dismantle old door(cm. ). To do this you need to use a nail puller. We lift the door and remove it from the hinges.
It is advisable to do this work together, as it is safer and easier. To remove old trim, you can use a nail puller or an ax. Thus we dismantle the old box.
Size matters
Before you install the interior door yourself, you need to decide on the width of the doorway. Standard width the door leaf becomes 600, 700, 800 and 900 mm.
You need to think carefully before you want to reduce it. After all, furniture will still have to be brought in or taken out through it.
If narrowing the doorway is necessary, then you need to prepare in advance wooden beam. The width of the beam should be equal to the width of the box. You need to insert it between the frame and the wall, securing it with dowels.
Installation steps
Box measurement
You need to start inserting an interior door by measuring the door frame.
- First we attach the top cross member to the top of the door. We measure the distance that needs to be sawed off.
- Next, we do the same with two longitudinal crossbars. We fasten them together with self-tapping screws.
- Two self-tapping screws at each mounting point will be sufficient.. In this process, the main thing to remember is that there must be a gap of 4-5 mm between the frame and the doors, so that the door can freely fit into the frame and there will be no rubbing.
Important. The distance between the floor and the door should be within 10-15 mm, and between the frame and the doors - 4-5 mm.
The next step in installing interior doors will be inserting the hinges. It's easier to do this when the box is already assembled.
So:
- First of all, we cut the hinges into the door leaf. To do this, you need to measure 200 mm from the top and bottom of the door.
- We apply the hinge to the door and draw an outline.
- Further along the contour, using a chisel and hammer, we make a notch depth equal to the thickness of the loops.
- Attaching the doors to the frame and we already outline the outline on the box with further cutting out the recess.
- We attach the hinges (see) to the doors and frame using self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in them. This is done to prevent the fabric from splitting.
- If we install interior doors, then you should remember that there are left-handed and right-handed loops.
Important. You need to understand which side of the door and frame to install the hinges on so that the interior door opens in the direction you want. Screw feet need to be lubricated machine oil or special graphite lubricant.
Installation of interior door frames
The next step on how to install an interior door is to install and strengthen the frame in the doorway.
So:
- To do this, place the box in the opening and carefully align and center it. This is a very important and responsible moment.
- We secure the box with wedges at the top and bottom. Using a drill, we make three holes in each post of the box. As a result, there will be six marks left on the wall along which we will make holes for attaching the box.
- We take out the wedges and remove the box.
- According to the marks on the wall impact drill with a concrete drill, we make six holes for dowels. Next, insert the dowels into the holes.
- We install the box and again center and level it using a level.
- We secure the box with long self-tapping screws, which in turn are closed with special caps to match the color of the door.
U installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!
You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in choosing doors and fittings, and help the craftsmen do everything efficiently.
Door opening dimensions
- Opening width
The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).
- Opening height
For all occasions correct height opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor., i.e. 206cm. Doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.
Here are some examples of correct openings:
- Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
- 70x200 - opening 79x206
- 60x200 - opening 69x206
- 60x190 - opening 69x196
With dimensions doorways you need to decide in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team yourself during the repair process.
Door widths for different rooms
If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:
- doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
- bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that the door can easily pass through washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58 cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
- The door leaf for the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with passage into the kitchen.
- V dressing room Usually they make the width 60-70cm.
When is it necessary to install extensions?
When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on the other side of the wall.
If you install it, it will be good decision, which will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the additions can be selected, for example, to match the MDF panel: 
The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more.
Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?
It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Typically, if your door opens into a room, the frame is flush with room wall, and the additional collection will be in the corridor.
If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.
Scheme for opening interior doors
Usually, if in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some open into rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the characteristics of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match.
This is what it looks like from common corridor a door that opens into the corridor, that is, onto us: 
This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward: 
It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.
Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.
In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.
At what height from the floor should the door be?
The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows don't forget to do supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.
Installation of interior doors during apartment renovation and the sequence of work stages.
In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity when carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do installation after ALL finishing works, including in neighboring rooms.
Early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper adhesive, especially plaster, dry quite quickly long time, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.
However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.
Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!
Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear connection of the platbands to the floor.
If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.
If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.
What to do if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?
A common mistake made by repair teams is openings that are too high, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, or better yet, 206 cm. from the floor covering.
Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.
Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.
Another option: if the platbands are flat in shape, saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from extensions that are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).
If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.
Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.
How to straighten a crooked doorway?
First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions, applying it to the wall long rule, additional or flat board. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.
To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.
Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.
If you understand that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons, placing them on vertical level and re-glue the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!
How to install a door in a crooked opening?
But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:
- Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
- Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
- Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling out the platbands from the grooves. This good decision problems, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will tear out the hinges.
The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.
What if the door is located close to the wall?
In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the platbands, we still spoil appearance doors, see photo: 
However, there are several other options to solve this problem:
- If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw a wooden beam with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
- Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
- During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..
Installing an interior threshold
The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covers the joint of the floor when closed door should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:
A common mistake made by repair crews is incorrect placement of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors.
Installation of interior doors in the bathroom
For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors with a height of 2 meters. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.
If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.
A common mistake is making a threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of the wet room are disrupted, and in the future, mold may appear.
Preparing interior door openings
Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.
If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.
If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening Necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening doors with self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counter part, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.
If inside metal profile the block is laid and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.
It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.
Preparing the opening for sliding doors
For those who want to install sliding doors opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.
At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.
Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment
If you don’t want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door, it surprisingly transforms the room: 
Preparing the flooring before installing doors
A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between floor covering and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.
A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.
Storing doors after purchase
To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.
Doors, trims and frames can change their sizes after changes in humidity. Due to the build-up of humidity after cold weather, it is necessary to store the door and molding indoors for several days before installation. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.
Which loops to choose?
- If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
- If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
- If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height
The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the hinge is 3 mm, then these are good hinges; a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. Most common door hinges There are several types:
- universal hinges- these are traditional mortise hinges familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.
- - not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design - both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. During the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.
- — time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening
How to choose locks and latches?
Locks and latches are best selected based on the most quiet operation mechanisms for opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very quality options. Don't skimp on them so as not to suffer later.
Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, so you should first ask knowledgeable people(not sellers), and do not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start making noise. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers know these models well.
You can buy classic latches/locks. It would be best to choose them with plastic tongues, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clank like metal ones.
Sometimes it happens that the new latch is difficult to operate. In this case, place a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.
Door handle height from floor
For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the design of the door, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.
Almost all models door handles The kit includes self-tapping screws that are too long, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw handles with their own self-tapping screws.
How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?
How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.
How to check the work of a door installation technician?
- Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps
- The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate without play.
- The canvas should evenly fit along its entire length to the rebate or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed by the canvas.
- The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
- The box is secured in the opening not only with construction foam, but also with fasteners
- The canvas should not close or open on its own.
- The fittings must rotate freely
- The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.
How to choose a door installation specialist? Basic methods.
1. The master must highly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (at a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and provide professional equipment: a miter saw, sawing table or manual Circular Saw, milling cutters, screwdriver, drill, hammer drill, hairpin gun with compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read