Textile fibers and threads. General characteristics and classification

Textile thread (thread) is a flexible and durable body with small transverse dimensions, having a significant length, used in the manufacture of textile fabrics and products. 12

All textile threads are divided into three types: original, primary and secondary. Depending on the structural elements they highlight classes, and in classrooms, by the shape of structural elements or by the nature of their arrangement - subclasses. In accordance with the homogeneity of structural elements, threads of subclasses are divided into groups, and depending on their nature - on kinds.

Each type combines many varieties of threads, differing in the characteristics of the raw material, manufacturing method, finishing, properties and purpose. For example, nylon threads can be shiny, matted, rough, or dyed in the mass.

The starting threads (Fig. 1.1) are the following: a) filaments And monofilament, molded from substances in a liquid or viscous-fluid state (solutions, melts, etc.) by pressing through holes of small transverse size various shapes; b) stripes, obtained by cutting thin flat materials(films, foil, paper, etc.).

Rice. 1.1. Classification of original textile threads

Elementary threads are those that cannot be divided in the longitudinal direction without destruction and that are used in the production of complex threads or tows.

Elementary chemical threads can be simple, that is, produced by molding using ordinary spinnerets with round holes, and profiled, i.e. receiving a special cross-sectional profile during the molding process.

Simple threads are homogeneous - formed by one type of polymer (for example, nylon, lavsan, acetate threads), and heterogeneous - formed by two or more polymers (for example, bicomponent acrylic thread). Profiled threads are homogeneous in their chemical composition.

Monofilaments are called single threads that do not divide in the longitudinal direction without destruction and are suitable for direct use in textiles. These are homogeneous chemical threads round section(nylon, polypropylene, polyethylene, polyurethane, etc.), as well as rubber monofilaments of a quadrangular cross-section.

Stripes They are a kind of monofilament with a rectangular cross-section. They can be glued together in several layers (duplicated) from strips of one or more varieties.

Primary threads are obtained by processing the original textile raw materials and are used for the manufacture of products, as well as for the production of secondary threads. They are combined into four classes: yarn, filament threads, flagella, split threads(Fig. 1.2).

Rice. 1.2. Classification of primary textile threads 14

Yarn called a thread consisting of fibers connected by twisting or gluing. Plain yarn has the same structure and color along its entire length. Yarn is homogeneous if it is obtained from a single type of fiber, for example flax (linen yarn), and mixed if it is obtained from a mixture of fibers of different types, for example flax and lavsan fiber (linen yarn). Depending on the method of spinning, dyeing or finishing, each type of yarn can have many varieties, for example, wet-spun linen yarn, dry-spun linen yarn, gray, dyed, bleached.

Complex threads- threads consisting of two or more elementary threads connected to each other by twisting or gluing. Natural silk strands are held together by gluing. Elementary chemical threads, which can be from one (homogeneous) or different (heterogeneous) polymers, are combined into a complex thread by twisting.

Flagella have the same structure as complex chemical threads, only they consist of elementary threads connected by friction and adhesion forces without twisting.

Split threads are obtained by twisting split strips and can be uniform or heterogeneous depending on the nature of the original split strips twisted together.

Recycled yarns are primary yarns that have been further processed.

Secondary threads are divided into classes: twisted, caned, reinforced, shaped And textured(Fig. 1.3).

Twisted threads consist of two or more primary or secondary threads connected to each other by twisting, and caned threads consist of two or more primary or secondary threads connected to each other by friction and adhesion without twisting. Spun threads are used mainly to produce twisted threads. Simple twisted threads, like simple yarn, have the same structure along their entire length. A twisted thread can be homogeneous if it is obtained by twisting threads of uniform fibrous composition, or non-uniform if threads of different natures are twisted.

Rice. 1.3. Classification of secondary textile threads

When two or more mixed threads are twisted, the twisted thread is also called mixed thread. If a twisted thread consists of mixed yarn and some heterogeneous thread (that is, one that has already been twisted), then such a thread is called mixed-heterogeneous. Twisted heterogeneous threads obtained by twisting threads of different classes (for example, yarn with a complex thread) are called combined.

Shaped thread characterized by various local effects obtained by changing the structure of the thread in certain areas of its length (for example, thickening or thinning, nodules, colored inclusions). Local effects in shaped threads are located regularly at a short distance from each other. Fancy yarn can be uniform or mixed. Shaped threads most often have a corkscrew structure and can be homogeneous, heterogeneous or mixed.

Reinforced thread is called a thread entwined along its entire length with fibers or threads. The reinforced thread has a layered structure in which the inner and outer layers perform different functions. Polyamide or polyester filament yarns are often used as the inner layer (core) to give the yarn strength, while the outer layer can be formed of cotton fiber, which provides the properties inherent in cotton yarn.

Textured threads- threads, the structure of which has been changed through additional processing to increase volume and elongation. Textured threads are made from thermoplastic filament threads: triacetate, polyester, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile. They can be single or twisted. Textured thread is characterized by a sharply increased volume due to the loose arrangement of the fibers. It can be homogeneous in composition and mixed (for example, from a mixture of high-shrinkage polyvinyl chloride fiber with viscose).

Textile fibers are flexible, strong bodies with small transverse dimensions, limited length, suitable for manufacturing textile products.

Textile fibers are divided into two classes: natural and chemical. Based on the origin of the fiber-forming substance, natural fibers are divided into three subclasses: plant, animal and mineral origin, chemical fibers are divided into two subclasses: artificial and synthetic.

Artificial fiber- chemical fiber made from natural high-molecular substances.

Synthetic fiber- chemical fiber made from synthetic high-molecular substances.

Fibers can be elementary or complex.

Elementary- a fiber that does not divide in the longitudinal direction without destruction (cotton, linen, wool, viscose, nylon, etc.). Complex fiber consists of longitudinally bonded elementary fibers.

Fibers are the starting material for the manufacture of textile products and can be used both in natural and mixed forms. The properties of fibers affect the technological process of processing them into yarn. Therefore, it is important to know the basic properties of fibers and their characteristics: thickness, length, crimp. The thickness of the products obtained from them depends on the thickness of the fibers and yarn, which affects their consumer properties.

Yarn made from thin synthetic fibers is more prone to pilling - the formation of rolled fibers on the surface of the material. The longer the fibers, the more even in thickness and stronger the yarn made from them.

Natural fibers

Cotton- These are the fibers that cover the seeds of cotton plants. Cotton is an annual plant 0.6-1.7 m high, growing in areas with a hot climate. The main substance (94-96%) that makes up cotton fiber is cellulose. Under a microscope, cotton fiber of normal maturity looks like a flat ribbon with a corkscrew crimp and a channel filled with air inside. One end of the fiber on the side where it is separated from the cotton seed is open, the other, which has a conical shape, is closed.

The amount of fiber depends on its degree of maturity.

Cotton fiber is inherently crimped. Fibers of normal maturity have the greatest crimp - 40-120 crimps per 1 cm.

The length of cotton fibers ranges from 1 to 55 mm. Depending on the length of the fibers, cotton is divided into short-staple (20-27 mm), medium-staple (28-34 mm) and long-staple (35-50 mm). Cotton with a length of less than 20 mm is called unspun, i.e., it is impossible to make yarn from it. There is a certain relationship between the length and thickness of cotton fibers: the longer the fibers, the thinner they are. Therefore, long-staple cotton is also called fine-staple cotton; it has a thickness of 125-167 millitex (mtex). The thickness of medium-staple cotton is 167–220 mtex, short-staple cotton is 220–333 mtex.

The thickness of the fibers is expressed in terms of linear density in hexes. Tex shows how many grams a piece of fiber 1 km long weighs. Millitex = mg/km.

The choice of spinning system (yarn production) depends on the length and thickness of the fibers, which in turn affects the quality of the yarn and fabric. Thus, from long-staple (fine-fiber) cotton, thin, even in thickness, with low hairiness, dense, strong yarn of 5.0 tex and above is obtained, used for the manufacture of high-quality thin and light fabrics: cambric, voile, volte, combed satin, etc.

Medium-fiber cotton is used to produce yarn of medium and higher average linear density 11.8-84.0 tex, from which the bulk of cotton fabrics are produced: calico, calico, calico, carded satin, corduroy, etc.

From short-fiber cotton, loose, thick, uneven in thickness, fluffy, sometimes with foreign impurities, yarn is obtained - 55-400 tex, used for the production of flannel, paper, flannel, etc.

Cotton fiber has numerous positive properties. It has high hygroscopicity (8-12%), so cotton fabrics have good hygienic properties.

The fibers are quite strong. Distinctive feature cotton fiber has an increased tensile strength in the wet state by 15-17%, which is explained by a doubling of the cross-sectional area of the fiber as a result of its strong swelling in water.

Cotton has high heat resistance - fiber destruction does not occur up to 140°C.

Cotton fiber is more resistant to light than viscose and natural silk, but in terms of light resistance it is inferior to bast and wool fibers. Cotton is highly resistant to alkalis, which is used in finishing cotton fabrics (finishing - mercerization, treatment with caustic soda solution). At the same time, the fibers swell greatly, shrink, become uncrimped, smooth, their walls thicken, the channel narrows, strength increases, and shine increases; the fibers are better dyed, holding the dye firmly. Due to its low elasticity, cotton fiber has high creasing, high shrinkage, and low resistance to acid. Cotton is used for the production of fabrics for various purposes, knitwear, non-woven fabrics, curtains, tulle and lace products, sewing threads, braid, laces, ribbons, etc. Cotton fluff is used in the production of medical, clothing, and furniture wool.

Bast fibers obtained from the stems, leaves or fruit shells of various plants. Stem bast fibers are flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, etc., leaf fibers are sisal, etc., fruit fibers are coir, obtained from the covering of coconut shells. Of the bast fibers, flax fibers are the most valuable.

Linen - annual herbaceous plant, has two varieties: long flax and curly flax. Fibers are obtained from fiber flax. The main substance that makes up bast fibers is cellulose (about 75%). Associated substances include: lignin, pectin, fatty wax, nitrogenous, coloring, ash substances, water. Flax fiber has four to six edges with pointed ends and characteristic strokes (shifts) in individual areas, resulting from mechanical stress on the fiber during its production.

Unlike cotton, flax fiber has relatively thick walls, a narrow channel, closed at both ends; The surface of the fiber is more even and smooth, so linen fabrics are less likely to get dirty than cotton fabrics and are easier to wash. These properties of flax are especially valuable for linen fabrics. Flax fiber is also unique in that, with high hygroscopicity (12%), it absorbs and releases moisture faster than other textile fibers; it is stronger than cotton, elongation at break is 2-3%. The content of lignin in flax fiber makes it resistant to light, weather, and microorganisms. Thermal destruction of the fiber does not occur up to + 160°C. The chemical properties of flax fiber are similar to cotton, that is, it is resistant to alkalis, but not resistant to acids. Due to the fact that linen fabrics have their natural, quite beautiful silky shine, they are not subjected to mercerization.

However, flax fiber is highly wrinkled due to low elasticity and is difficult to bleach and dye.

Canvas, fire hoses, cords, shoe threads are also made from flax fibers, and coarser fabrics are made from flax tows: bags, canvas, tarpaulins, sailcloths, etc.

Hemp obtained from the annual hemp plant. The fibers are used to produce ropes, ropes, twines, packaging and bagging fabrics.

Kenaf, jute obtained from annual plants of the mallow and linden families. Kenaf and jute are used to produce bag and container fabrics; used for transporting and storing moisture-intensive goods.

Wool - fiber from the removed hair of sheep, goats, camels, rabbits and other animals. Wool removed by shearing in the form of a single hairline is called fleece. Wool fibers are composed of the protein keratin, which, like other proteins, contains amino acids.

Under a microscope, wool fibers can be easily distinguished from other fibers - their outer surface is covered with scales. The scaly layer consists of small plates in the form

cone-shaped rings strung on top of each other and represents keratinized cells. The scaly layer is followed by the cortical layer, the main one, on which the properties of the fiber and products made from them depend. The fiber may also have a third layer, the core layer, consisting of loose, air-filled cells. Under a microscope, the peculiar crimp of the wool fibers is also visible. Depending on what layers are present in the wool, it can be of the following types: fluff, transitional hair, awn, dead hair.

Pooh- thin, highly crimped, silky fiber without a core layer. Transitional hair has an intermittent, loose core layer, due to which it is uneven in thickness, strength, and has less crimp.

Ost And dead hair have a large core layer, are characterized by great thickness, lack of crimp, increased rigidity and fragility, and low strength.

Depending on the thickness of the fibers and the uniformity of the composition, wool is divided into fine, semi-fine, semi-coarse and coarse. Important indicators The qualities of wool fiber are its length and thickness. The length of wool affects the technology for obtaining yarn, its quality and the quality of finished products. From long fibers (55-120 mm) combed (worsted) yarn is obtained - thin, even in thickness, dense, smooth.

From short fibers (up to 55 mm), hardware (cloth) yarn is obtained, which, unlike worsted, is thicker, loose, fluffy, with uneven thickness.

The properties of wool are unique in their own way - it is characterized by high feltability, which is explained by the presence of a scaly layer on the surface of the fiber.

The hygroscopicity of wool is high (15-17%), but unlike other fibers it slowly absorbs and releases moisture, remaining dry to the touch. In water it swells greatly, and the cross-sectional area increases by 30-35%. Moistened fiber in a stretched state can be fixed by drying; when re-moistened, the length of the fiber is restored again. This property of wool is taken into account during the wet-heat treatment of garments made from woolen fabrics for stretching and stretching their individual parts.

From fine and semi-fine wool, both in pure form and mixed with other fibers (cotton, viscose, nylon, lavsan, nitron), worsted and fine cloth dress, suit, coat fabrics, non-woven fabrics, knitwear, scarves, blankets are produced. ; from semi-rough and coarse - coarse cloth coat fabrics, felted shoes, felt.

Goat down is used mainly for the production of scarves, knitwear and some dress, suit, and coat fabrics; camel hair- for the production of blankets and national products. Lower quality fabrics, felted shoes, nonwovens, construction felt.

Natural silk in terms of its properties and cost, it is the most valuable textile raw material. It is obtained by unwinding cocoons formed by silkworm caterpillars. Silk is the most widespread and valuable silkworm, which accounts for 90% of world silk production.

The homeland of silk is China, where the silkworm was cultivated 3000 BC. e. The production of silk goes through the following stages: the silkworm butterfly lays eggs (grena), from which caterpillars hatch about 3 mm long. They feed on mulberry leaves, hence the name silkworm. After a month, the caterpillar, having accumulated natural silk, through the silk-secreting glands located on both sides of the body, wraps itself in a continuous thread of 40-45 layers and forms a cocoon. Winding the cocoon lasts 3-4 days. Inside the cocoon, the caterpillar turns into a butterfly, which, having made a hole in the cocoon with an alkaline liquid, comes out of it. Such a cocoon is unsuitable for further unwinding. Cocoon threads are very thin, so they are unwound simultaneously from several cocoons (6-8), connecting them into one complex thread. This thread is called raw silk. The total length of the unwinding thread is on average 1000-1300 m.

Of all natural fibers, natural silk is the lightest fiber and, along with its beautiful appearance, has high hygroscopicity (11%), softness, silkiness, and low creasing.

Natural silk has high strength. The breaking load of silk when wet is reduced by approximately 15%. Natural silk is resistant to acids, but not to alkalis, has low light fastness, relatively low heat resistance (100-110°C) and high shrinkage. Silk is used to make dress and blouse fabrics, as well as sewing threads, ribbons, and laces.

Chemical fibers are obtained by chemical processing of natural (cellulose, proteins, etc.) or synthetic high-molecular substances (polyamides, polyesters, etc.).

The shape of the holes of the spinnerets is usually round, and to obtain profiled threads, spinnerets with holes in the form of a triangle, polyhedron, stars, etc. are used.

When producing short fibers, spinnerets with a large number of holes are used. Elementary threads from many spinnerets are combined into one bundle and cut into fibers of the required length, which corresponds to the length of natural fibers. The formed fibers are subjected to finishing.

Depending on the type of finish, the fibers are white, dyed, shiny or matted.

Man-made fibers

Artificial fibers are obtained from natural high-molecular compounds - cellulose, proteins, metals, their alloys, silicate glasses.

The most common artificial fiber is viscose, produced from cellulose. For the production of viscose fiber, wood pulp, mainly spruce pulp, is usually used. The wood is split, treated with chemicals, and turned into a spinning solution - viscose.

Viscose fibers They are produced in the form of complex threads and fibers, their application is different.

Viscose fiber is hygienic, has high hygroscopicity (11-12%), products made from viscose absorb moisture well; it is resistant to alkalis; The heat resistance of viscose fiber is high.

But viscose fiber has disadvantages:

- due to low elasticity, it wrinkles greatly;

— high fiber shrinkage (6-8%);

— when wet, it loses strength (up to 50-60%). It is not recommended to rub or twist the products.

Other artificial fibers used include acetate and triacetate fibers.

Metal threads are monofilaments of round or flat sections made of aluminum foil, copper and its alloys, silver, gold and other metals. Alunit (Lurex) is a metal thread made of aluminum foil, coated on both sides with a protective antioxidant film.

Synthetic fibers

Synthetic fibers are obtained from natural, low-molecular substances (monomers), which are converted into high-molecular substances (polymers) through chemical synthesis.

Polyamide (nylon) fibers obtained from a polymer of caprolactam - a low-molecular crystalline substance that is produced from coal or oil. In other countries, nylon fibers are called differently: in the USA, England - nylon, in Germany - dederon.

Polyester fibers(lavsan) released under different names: in England and Canada - terylene, in the USA - dacron, in Japan - polyester. Availability of valuable consumer properties polyester fibers have led to their widespread use in textile, knitting, and faux fur.

Polyacrylonitrile fibers(acrylic, nitron): in the USA - orlon, in England - kurtel, in Japan - cashmilon. Nitron fiber in its properties and appearance resembles wool. Fibers in their pure form and mixed with wool are used to produce dress and suit fabrics, artificial fur, various knitwear, and curtains and tulle products.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), chlorine fiber is produced from a solution of polyvinyl chloride resin in dimethylformamide (PVC) and from chlorinated polyvinyl chloride. These fibers differ significantly from other synthetic fibers: as a result of their low thermal conductivity, they have a high thermal insulation ability, do not burn, do not rot, and are very resistant to chemical influences.

Polyurethane fibers. By processing polyurethane resin, spandex or lycra fiber is obtained, produced in the form of monofilament. It is characterized by high elasticity, its elongation is up to 800%. It is used instead of rubber core in the production of women's toiletries and high-stretch knitwear.

Alunite- metal threads made of aluminum foil, covered polymer film, protecting the metal from oxidation. To strengthen it, alunit is twisted with nylon threads.

Hardware cotton yarn- fluffy, loose, thick yarn obtained from short fibers, characterized by low strength.

Hardware wool yarn- produced using a hardware system from short-fiber wool and waste (spinning waste) with a thickness of 42-500 tex, loose, fluffy, uneven in thickness and strength.

Reinforced thread- a textile thread that has a complex structure consisting of a braided core, i.e. the axial thread is wrapped or tightly braided with fibers or other threads.

Asbestos fiber- mineral fiber found in rocks. The longest fibers (10 mm or more) are processed into yarn used for the production of technical fabrics, tapes, cords, used mainly for thermal insulation.

Acetate fiber- artificial fiber, obtained from solutions of partially saponified secondary cellulose acetate in acetate using a dry method (pressing through a spinneret and drying).

Viscose fiber- an artificial fiber produced from wood cellulose, converted by chemical transformations into a viscous liquid (viscose), which is pressed through spinnerets and reduced to cellulose hydrate.

Restored (regenerated) wool—an additional source of raw materials for light industry. It is obtained from scraps of yarn during spinning and weaving, from scraps of woolen fabrics and knitwear in clothing production and waste raw materials (used fabrics and knitwear). Used in small quantities (20-35%) in a mixture with regular wool and with the addition of 10-30% synthetic fiber to reduce production costs.

High bulk yarn- yarn, the additional volume of which is obtained by chemical and/or heat treatment.

Combed cotton yarn- thin, smooth, even-in-thickness yarn obtained from long-staple cotton is characterized by the greatest strength.

Combed (worsted) wool yarn- thin, smooth, produced from long-fiber wool using a combed spinning system, thickness 15.5-42 tex.

Coarse wool- heterogeneous wool, consisting mainly of guard hairs with a thickness of 41 microns or more. Obtained by shearing sheep of coarse-wool breeds (Caucasian, Tushino, etc.).

Jute, kenaf- fibers obtained from the stems of plants of the same names, reaching a height of 3 m or more. Dry stems contain up to 21% fiber, used for technical, packaging, furniture fabrics and carpets. The largest sown areas are in India and Bangladesh.

Crimped fiber- natural or chemical fiber with crimp.

Artificial fiber (thread)- chemical fiber (thread) made as a result production process from natural polymers through chemical processing.

Carded cotton yarn- a thick, uneven yarn obtained from medium-length cotton. Used for the production of cotton fabrics.

Combination thread- a textile thread consisting of complex threads or monofilaments, or complex threads that differ in chemical composition or structure, different in fibrous composition and structure.

Complex thread- a textile thread consisting of two or more longitudinally connected and twisted elementary fibers.

Crepe thread- characterized by high (crepe) twist. To obtain natural silk crepe, 2-5 threads of raw silk are twisted to 2200-3200 kr/m, and then they are steamed to fix the twist. Crepe from complex chemical threads is obtained by twisting one thread up to 1500-200 cr/m. Due to the high twist, fabrics made from crepe threads are characterized by significant elasticity, rigidity, and roughness.

twisted thread- a textile thread twisted from one or more textile threads.

Twisted yarn- a textile thread twisted from two or more yarns.

Linen- bast fiber obtained from the stems of a plant of the same name. Fiber flax with a long (up to 1 m) and thin (1-2 mm in diameter) stem is cultivated for fiber.

Bast fiber- long prosenchymal cells in the stems of various plants, devoid of part of the contents of the plant stem. Fibers from bast crops (flax, nettle, hemp, etc.) are used to produce yarn.

Wet-spun linen yarn- produced with a thickness of 24-200 tex from long fiber and tow, while the roving (a semi-finished flax product) - thin and uniform in thickness - is wetted before spinning.

Dry-spun linen yarn- produced from flax fiber and tow, uneven in thickness, 33-666 tex.

Lurex- a thread in the form of a shiny narrow metal strip covered with foil or a metallized film.

Copper-ammonia fiber— produced from a solution of cellulose in a copper-ammonia complex, its properties are close to viscose. Production is limited, as it is associated with significant copper consumption (50 g per 1 kg of fiber).

Multi-twist thread- a twisted thread of two or more textile threads, one of which is single-twist, twisted together in one or more twisting operations.

Modified thread (fiber)- textile thread (fiber) with specified specific properties, obtained by additional chemical or physical modification.

Mooskrep- double twist thread. Mooskrep from natural silk is produced by twisting a crepe thread with 2-3 threads of raw silk. Mooscrep from artificial threads is obtained by caning and subsequent twisting of crepe thread and flat twist thread. The second twist is made in the direction of the crepe thread at approximately 200 cr/m. The crepe thread is a core thread, and the raw silk thread or a flat twist thread is a surge thread that wraps around the core thread.

Muslin- thin thread of medium twist. Natural silk muslin is produced by twisting one thread of raw silk up to 1500-1800 cr/m, followed by steaming to fix the twist. Muslin from a complex chemical thread (viscose, acetate, nylon) is produced by twisting the thread up to 600-800 cr/m.

Maron (nylon), melan (lavsan)- tensile threads, obtained like high-tensile threads, by chemical treatment, but with additional heat treatment with some stretching. As a result of this, the spiral-shaped tortuosity characteristic of elastic turns into a sinusoidal one and is fixed in this state. The threads are soft, fluffy, elongation 30-50%.

Natural fiber— textile fiber of natural origin.

Natural silk- a product of the secretion of the silk glands of silkworm caterpillars - the protein substance fibroin - in the form of a thin continuous thread curled into a cocoon. At the moment the cocoon is formed, the caterpillars secrete two thin silks, which harden when exposed to air. At the same time, the protein substance sericin is released, which glues the mulberries together.

Heterogeneous thread- textile thread consisting of fibers of different nature.

Single thread- an untwisted, untwisted thread or an untwisted twisted thread that received a twist in one twisting operation.

Single twist thread- a twisted thread made of two or more single strands twisted together in a single twisting operation.

Uniform thread- a textile thread consisting of textile fibers of the same nature.

Uniform yarn- yarn consisting of fibers of one type.

Hemp— is produced from an annual tall hemp plant. Hemp is divided into filament hemp (thin), used for making yarn, industrial hemp (thick, coarse), from which technical fabrics are produced, and rope hemp, used for ropes.

Trace yarn- yarn with alternating thickening and thinning.

Film textile thread- a flat filament thread obtained by splitting a textile film or extruding in the form of a strip.

Polyacrylonitrile fiber (nitron)- a synthetic fiber formed from solutions of polyacrylonitrile or copolymers containing more than 85% (by weight) acrylonitrile using a wet or dry method. Produced under the following trade names: orlon, acrylon (USA), cashmilon (Japan), dralon (Germany), etc.

Polyamide fiber- synthetic fiber formed from melts of polyamides. It is made from polycaprolactam under the following trade names: nylon (Russia), nylon (Japan), perlon, dederon (Germany), amelan (Japan), etc.

Polyvinyl alcohol fiber- synthetic fiber, formed from solutions of polyvinyl alcohol, is produced in many countries under the following names: vinol (Russia), vinylon, kuralon (Japan), vinalon (DPRK), etc.

Polyvinyl chloride fiber- synthetic fiber formed from solutions of polyvinyl chloride, perchlorovinyl resin or vinyl chloride copolymers using a dry or wet method; is produced in the form of continuous threads or staple fibers under the following trade names: chlorin, saran, vignon (USA), roville (France), Teviron (Japan), etc.

Polynose fiber- a type of viscose fiber with a high degree of orientation of macromolecules in the structure and homogeneity of the structure in the cross section, as a result of which it has high strength and low elongation.

Polypropylene fiber- a synthetic fiber molded from a melt of polypropylene. Due to its low density, it is used for the manufacture of non-sinking ropes, nets, filter and upholstery materials; staple polypropylene fibers - for the production of blankets, fabrics, and outerwear. Textured (high volume) polypropylene fibers are used primarily in the carpet industry. They are produced under various trade names: Herculon (USA), Ulstrene (Great Britain), Found (Japan), Mercalone (Italy), etc.

Polyester fiber (lavsan)- synthetic fiber formed from a melt of polyethylene terephthalate (synthesis of petroleum distillation products). Technical thread made from polyester fibers is used in the manufacture of conveyor belts, drive belts, ropes, sails, etc. Monofilament is used to make nets for paper-making machines, strings for rackets, etc. High-volume thread is obtained using the “false twist” method.

Semi-coarse wool- consists of transitional hair fibers and relatively thin awn fibers with a thickness of 35-40 microns. They get it from fine-fleece-coarse-wool sheep (Zadonsky, steppe, Volga, etc.).

Semi-fine wool- uniform wool, consisting of coarse fibers, 25-35 microns thick, classified as fluff or transitional hair. Obtained by shearing semi-fine fleece sheep (precut, Kazakh, Kuibyshev, etc.).

Yarn- a textile thread consisting of fibers of limited length (natural or staple chemical), connected into a long thread by spinning (orientation and twisting of the fibers).

Yarn with neps- yarn with spun inclusions of fibers of a different color or type.

Rami- fiber produced from perennial grasses and shrubs of the nettle family, containing up to 21% of durable silky fiber in dry stems.

Fleece- a continuous layer obtained by shearing sheep, consisting of tufts of wool firmly held next to each other - staples.

Siblon- modified durable viscose fiber with uniform properties of both external and internal layers, achieved by cellulose regeneration at low temperatures of the precipitation bath and fiber flowing out at high temperatures (95 ° C).

Synthetic fiber (thread)- chemical fiber (thread), made from synthetic fiber-forming polymers (polyamide, polyester, etc.).

Blended yarn- yarn consisting of two or more types of fibers.

Spandex— polyurethane monofilament with high elongation — up to 700-800%.

Glass threads- threads obtained by pressing molten glass mass through thin holes. The flowing streams, cooling, turn into flexible threads. The main application is thermal and electrical insulation, filters.

Harsh yarn- gray-yellow yarn without any finishing.

Textile tape (roving)- a set of longitudinally oriented staple fibers of a given linear density without twist, intended for subsequent mechanical processing (pulling, twisting).

Textile monofilament thread (monofilament thread)- a filament thread used for the direct production of textiles.

Textile thread- a textile product of unlimited length and relatively small cross-section, consisting of textile fibers and/or filaments, with or without twist.

Textile fiber- a thin, flexible, extended body of limited length, suitable for making yarn and threads.

Textured thread- a crimped textile thread, the structure of which, through additional processing, has an increased specific volume and elongation.

Heat-fixed thread (fiber)- textile thread (fiber) subjected to heat or thermal moisture treatment in order to bring its structure to an equilibrium state.

Fine wool- uniform wool, consisting only of fluff fibers, up to 25 microns thick, with fine uniform crimp, soft, elastic, of the same length. It is obtained from fine-wool sheep (Merino, Tsigai) and is used for high-quality fabrics and knitwear.

Triacetate fiber— obtained from solutions of triacetyl cellulose in a mixture of methylene chloride and alcohol by a dry method.

Troweled thread- a textile thread consisting of two or more threads connected without twisting.

Shaped thread- a textile thread that has periodically repeating local changes in structure in the form of knots, loops and coloring.

Fibrillated film thread- a film textile thread with longitudinal cuts, having transverse connections between fibrils. Fibrils in this case are structural elements with a fineness of the same order as that of textile fibers.

Chemical fiber (thread)- textile fiber (thread) obtained as a result of a production process from artificial, synthetic polymers or inorganic substances.

Cotton— fibers from the surface of cotton seeds, an annual shrub that grows in warm climates. There are long-staple cotton (34-50 mm), medium-staple cotton (24-35 mm) and short-staple cotton (up to 27 mm).

Raw cotton- raw material from cotton gins, contains a large amount of cotton seeds, covered with cotton fiber, with admixtures of leaves, parts of bolls, etc.

Silk yarn— made from natural silk waste (scraping of defective cocoons), which is cleaned of impurities, boiled and split into individual fibers (up to 7 tex).

Silk base- double twist thread of 2-4 threads of raw silk. First, threads of raw silk are twisted to the left by 400-600 kr/m, and then 2-3 such threads are caned and twisted to the right by 480-600 kr/m. With secondary reverse twist, the primary twist is slightly reduced, resulting in a soft twisted thread.

Raw silk- a product of unwinding cocoons on special cocoon winding machines, where several (4-9) threads folded together are wound on a reel.

Silk weft- a flat twist thread obtained by twisting 2-5 or more threads of raw silk with a flat twist (125 twists per 1 m). The thread is soft, even, smooth, 9.1-7.1 tex thick.

Wool- hair fibers of various animals: sheep, goats, camels, etc.

Staple fiber- an elementary fiber of limited length, which is obtained by cutting a tow of chemical fibers.

Staple fiber in bulk- a random mass of elementary fibers of limited length.

Elastic- (from the Greek Elastos - flexible, viscous) highly extensible textured threads with high (up to 40%) elongation, spiral crimp and fluffiness. It is produced on “false twist” machines by imparting a twist of 2500-3000 kr/m to the thread and then removing the resulting internal stresses in a heat chamber (150-180 °C). As a result, the thread takes the shape of a spiral. Elastic is used to make hosiery.

Elementary thread (filament)- a single textile thread of practically unlimited length, considered as infinite.

Elemental fiber- textile fiber, which is a single, indivisible element.

Natural fibers depending on chemical composition are divided into two subclasses: organic (plant and animal origin) and mineral fibers of plant origin: cotton, flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, kendyr, ramie, rope, sisal, etc.

Fibers of animal origin: wool of sheep, goats, camels and other animals, natural silk of mulberry and oak silkworms.

Mineral fibers include asbestos,

Chemical fibers are divided into two subclasses: artificial and synthetic.

Artificial fibers are divided into organic (viscose fiber, acetate, triacetate, copper-ammonia, mtilon B, siblon, polynose, etc.) and inorganic (glass and metal fibers and threads).

Synthetic fibers, depending on the nature of the starting materials, are divided into polyamide (nylon, anide, enant), polyester (lavsan), polyacrylonitrile (nitron), polyolefin (polypropylene, polyethylene), polyurethane (spandex), polyvinyl alcohol (vinol), polyvinyl chloride (chlorine), fluorine-containing (fluorlon), as well as polyformaldehyde, polybutylene terephthalate, etc.

Man-made fibers

Viscose fiber is the most natural of all chemical fibers, obtained from natural cellulose. Depending on the purpose, viscose fibers are produced in the form of threads, as well as staple (short) fibers with a shiny or matte surface. The fiber has good hygroscopicity (35-40%), light resistance and softness. The disadvantages of viscose fibers are: a large loss of strength when wet, easy creasing, insufficient resistance to friction and significant shrinkage when moistened. These disadvantages are eliminated in modified viscose fibers (polinose, siblon, mtilon), which are characterized by significantly higher dry and wet strength, greater wear resistance, less shrinkage and increased crease resistance.

Siblon, compared to conventional viscose fiber, has a lower degree of shrinkage, increased crease resistance, wet strength and alkali resistance. Mtilan has antimicrobial properties and is used in medicine as threads for temporary fastening of surgical sutures. Viscose fibers are used in the production of clothing fabrics, underwear and outerwear, both in pure form and in a mixture with other fibers and threads.

Acetate and triacetate fibers are obtained from cotton pulp. Fabrics made from acetate fibers are very similar in appearance to natural silk, have high elasticity, softness, good drape, low creasing, and the ability to transmit ultraviolet rays. Hygroscopicity is less than that of viscose, so they become electrified. Fabrics made from triacetate fiber have low creasing and shrinkage, but lose strength when wet. Due to their high elasticity, the fabrics retain their shape and finishes (corrugated and pleated) well. High heat resistance allows you to iron fabrics made of acetate and triacetate fibers at 150-160°C.

Textile threads are flexible, strong bodies obtained from fibers with small transverse dimensions and an indefinitely long length.

Depending on the method of production, all textile threads can be divided:

For yarn obtained by spinning from fibers of limited length;

Chapter 2

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- threads obtained without spinning from fibers of unlimited

lengths (integral threads and monofilaments).

Integrated called a thread consisting of two or more elementary threads connected to each other by twisting or gluing.

A single thread that does not divide in the longitudinal direction without breaking and can be directly used in the production of textiles is called monofilament

Twisted thread is a thread obtained by twisting two or more filament threads, yarn, or both together.

Yarn called a textile thread consisting of short fibers twisted during the spinning process.

Spinning is a set of operations as a result of which yarn is made from fibrous mass. The fibers used for spinning are called spinning fibers.

There are three main methods of spinning; hardware, comb and card. The choice of spinning method, the type and properties of the resulting yarn depend on the length and thickness of the fibers used for spinning. Most Applications I found a carded spinning method, which processes cotton and produces yarn of medium thickness and fluffiness.

The main operations of carded cotton spinning are loosening and fraying the fibers, carding, straightening and drawing the sliver, pre-spinning and spinning itself.

The actual spinning is carried out on spinning machines and involves drawing the roving to the desired linear density, twisting it into yarn and winding the yarn. On ring spinning machines, the yarn is wound in a cob shape on a chuck mounted on a spindle.

IN Lately Spindleless spinning is being increasingly used, producing yarn that is more uniform in linear density and strength. Yarn with this spinning method is obtained in bobbins, which can be used without rewinding for warping and as weft in shuttleless looms.

Fine Staple Cotton Recycled combed way spinning, which in addition to carding operations includes an additional operation - combed carding. On combing machines, after carding, short fibers are combed out, resulting in a sliver consisting of only long fibers. This makes it possible to draw the sliver very strongly and produce a fine, uniform and smooth combed yarn. Spinning itself can be carried out on ring and spindleless machines.

Short staple cotton is recycled hardware method, in which carding is carried out on carding machines. The hardware method makes it possible to use short-fiber raw materials and obtain thick, loose, fluffy hardware yarn of uneven thickness. Spinning itself can be carried out on ring or spindleless machines.

In spinning wool There are combed (coarsely combed and finely combed) and hardware methods.

The longest and coarsest wool fibers, processed by coarse combing, produce dense and stiff yarn. Fine, medium-length wool is combed into finely combed, soft yarn with a slightly fluffy surface.

Short wool goes into machine spinning. At the same time, depending on the thickness of the fibers, the yarn obtained is fine-woven (thinner, softer, fluffy) or coarse-wool (thicker and stiffer).

In spinning flax has its own characteristics. While all other fibers are always spun dry, flax fibers can be processed either dry or wet. With the wet method, to obtain thinner and denser yarn, the roving is passed through baths with hot water, softening pectin substances and facilitating the process of drawing out the ribbon. There are two flax spinning systems: flax and bobbin. The flax system processes long fibers, the freely hanging bundles of which are combed on flax carding machines.

Textile goods

cars. At the same time, long technical fibers are crushed into increasingly finer ones, and short fibers, which are processed through the stripping system, are separated and combed out. The resulting comb yarn is usually thick and uneven.

Silk waste, obtained by unwinding silkworm cocoons are processed into yarn by combing, machine and stripping methods.

Yarn, unlike monolithic threads, consists of fibers of limited length, interconnected by twisting and held together by frictional forces. Yarn has the widest application for the manufacture of textile products for various purposes.

Yarn can be classified according to various criteria.

By fiber composition yarn is divided into homogeneous, consisting of fibers of the same name (cotton, wool, etc.), and mixed (heterogeneous), consisting of fibers of different names. The compositions of the mixtures are extremely varied. Two- and three-component mixtures are widespread.

By finishing and painting yarn is divided into gray (without finishing), bleached, plain-dyed, acidified, melange (from a mixture of colored fibers), mulled (from two or more multi-colored threads), fancy-dyed yarn and variegated. The latter is obtained on spinning machines while simultaneously processing roving different colors. Fancy-dyed yarn has a color effect obtained through the use of special dyeing or printing methods that ensure that the dye is applied unevenly to the surface of the yarn along its length.

By structure (design) yarn is divided into single-strand, caned and shaped. Single-strand yarn is produced on spinning machines by right- or left-hand twisting of stranded fibers. When untwisted, single-strand yarn breaks down into its constituent fibers. Spun yarn consists of two or more longitudinally folded threads, not twisted together, and is most widely used in knitting. Twisted yarn is produced on twisting machines.

By torsion method it is divided into single-twist, multi-twist, shaped, reinforced, textured and combined.

Single-twist yarn is produced by twisting two or three strands of equal length and has a smooth surface. To balance the twist, twisting is done in the direction opposite to the twist of the yarn.

Multi-twist yarn is formed by repeatedly twisting twisted yarn.

Fancy yarn - with a certain external effect, obtained by twisting threads of different lengths. During shaped torsion, the threads move with at different speeds. The thread located in the center is called the main or core thread, and the wrapping thread is called the surge or effect thread. To consolidate the resulting effect, the shaped thread is given additional twist (in the opposite direction) and twisted with the fixing thread. Chopper effect yarns may not have a locking thread. Knobby yarn is obtained as a result of local thickening of the turns of the entwining thread around the core. Spiral yarns are formed by varying degrees of tension on the core and effect yarns, or by twisting a roving with a single strand yarn.

Shaped yarns also include yarns with external effects (flyy or with the effect of coarse fibers) and with structural effects (altered shape), i.e. yarn with neps, with sections of threads, overfed. Floy yarn has clusters of fibers randomly located on its surface different color. Yarn with a coarse effect (flir) has individual or coarse colored fibers of high linear density (usually viscose) standing out on its surface. Yarn with neps has spherical thickenings. Trace yarn has thick and thin sections of varying lengths.

Reinforced yarn has a core of synthetic filament yarns, entwined along the entire length with cotton, wool or staple fibers.

Textured yarn has bulk, porosity, fluffiness, softness and high stretchability. like this

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yarn is produced in two ways: by spinning mixtures containing high-shrinkage fibers, followed by heat treatment of the resulting yarn, or by the aerodynamic method, in which the formation of yarn occurs under the influence of compressed air flows, loosening its structure.

Combined yarn can be stretchy and fleecy. Elastic yarn is twisted from two shaped wavy threads (elastic thread and cotton or wool tape) that have undergone heat treatment. Fleecy yarn (fluffy, high volume) is formed aerodynamically - under the influence of jets compressed air cotton or wool fibers are entangled with complex synthetic threads.

By thickness yarn is divided into three types: medium thickness (linear density 11-30 tex), small (less than 11 tex) and large thickness (more than 30 tex).

By purpose yarn is distinguished for weaving, knitting, carpet, thread and haberdashery (for making curtains, tulle, lace) industries; for technical products special purpose; for the production of rope products.

By spinning method cotton yarn is divided into hardware, carded, combed; wool - for hardware and combing; silk - for hardware, combing and combing from natural silk; flax - into dry-spun flax (l/s), wet-spun flax (l/m), dry-spun flax (o/s) and wet-spun flax (o/m).

Classification of textile threads

Monofilament is a single-strand thread that does not divide in the longitudinal direction without breaking, suitable for direct use in textiles.

A filament thread consists of two or more elementary threads joined together by twisting or gluing. A filament is a single thread that is integral part complex thread or tow. The filament cannot be used as a monofilament.

Yarn is a thread consisting of fibers connected by twisting or gluing.

Twisted thread is a thread twisted from two or more filament threads, yarns, or both.

Shaped thread - a thread that has periodically repeating local changes in structure (nodules, loops, thickenings, etc.) and color.

Reinforced thread is a special type of non-uniform threads obtained by wrapping a core component with forced threads or fibers.

Textured thread is a thread whose structure has been modified by additional processing to increase specific volume or elongation.

Based on the type of raw material used, yarn is divided into homogeneous and mixed, and threads into homogeneous and heterogeneous. Homogeneous threads and yarn consist of fibers of the same type of raw material, mixed yarn - from a mixture of fibers of different types of raw materials, heterogeneous thread - from threads of different types of raw materials.

Threads and yarn are made from natural and chemical (artificial and synthetic) fibers. Natural fiber is of natural origin (plant, animal, mineral). Chemical fibers are made from natural or synthetic high molecular weight substances. These include artificial fibers obtained from natural high-molecular substances. Synthetic fibers are made from synthetic high molecular weight substances.

Cotton, linen, wool yarn and natural silk are produced from natural fibers.

Cotton yarn is produced in gray, dyed and melange (obtained from dyed cotton).

Linen yarn is produced using a wet and dry spinning system. Yarn made from flax fiber, depending on the finishing method, can be raw, boiled, bleached and dyed.

Wool yarn is produced using combed and machine spinning systems. Depending on the linear density of the wool fiber, combed yarn is divided into fine-combed, coarse-combed and semi-combed, and hardware yarn is divided into fine-woven and coarse-woven. A significant portion of wool yarn is double-twisted.

Natural silk is obtained by unwinding the cocoons of mulberry and oak silkworms in the form of complexly glued threads (raw silk). In addition, they produce twisted natural silk with a different number of twists: with regular twist - up to 600 kr/m and crepe twist - up to 3200 kr/m. Silk yarn is made from waste obtained from processing natural silk.

Man-made fibers include viscose, acetate, triacetate and copper-ammonia. Artificial fibers are also used in pure form and mixed with natural ones.

Synthetic fibers, depending on the chemical structure, are divided into several types: polyamide (nylon, anide, enanth), polyester (lavsan), polyacrylonitrile (nitrone), polyolefin (polypropylene, polyethylene), etc., from which threads and staple fiber are made to produce homogeneous and mixed yarn. Threads made from synthetic fibers have increased strength, resistance to abrasion and repeated loads.

Polyamide and polyester fibers, which have low thermoplasticity, are more often than other fibers used to make textured threads, which are characterized by increased bulk, fluffiness and softness. The structure of textured threads has been changed mechanically(twisting, pressing, corrugating, knitting) and fixed by heat treatment. Textured threads include: elastic (spirally crimped), corrugated (flat crimped), ajilon (spatially crimped), taslan (looped), as well as melan, maron, etc.

The article uses materials from the textbook “Materials Science of Garment Production” (authors B. A. Buzov, T. A. Modestova, N. D. Alymennova)

Textile fibers are flexible, durable bodies with small transverse dimensions, limited length, suitable for the manufacture of textile products. Textile fibers are divided into two classes: natural and chemical. Based on the origin of the fiber-forming substance, natural fibers are divided into three subclasses: plant, animal and mineral origin, chemical fibers into two subclasses: artificial and synthetic.

Artificial fiber is a chemical fiber made from natural high-molecular substances.

Synthetic fiber is a chemical fiber made from synthetic high molecular weight substances.

Fibers can be elementary or complex.

Elementary - a fiber that does not divide in the longitudinal direction without destruction. Complex fiber consists of longitudinally bonded elementary fibers. Fibers are the starting material for the manufacture of textile products and can be used both in natural and mixed forms. The properties of fibers affect the technological process of processing them into yarn. Therefore, it is important to know the basic properties of fibers and their characteristics: thickness, length, crimp. The thickness of the products obtained from them depends on the thickness of the fibers and yarn, which affects their consumer properties. Yarn made from thin synthetic fibers is more prone to pilling - the formation of rolled fibers on the surface of the material. The longer the fibers, the more even in thickness and stronger the yarn made from them.

Natural fibers.

Cotton is the fiber that covers the seeds of cotton plants. Cotton is an annual plant 0.6-1.7 m high, growing in areas with a hot climate. The main substance (94-96%) that makes up cotton fiber is cellulose. Under a microscope, cotton fiber of normal maturity looks like a flat ribbon with a corkscrew crimp and a channel filled with air inside. One end of the fiber on the side where it is separated from the cotton seed is open, the other, which has a conical shape, is closed. The amount of fiber depends on its degree of maturity.

Cotton fiber is inherently crimped. Fibers of normal maturity have the greatest crimp - 40-120 crimps per 1 cm. The length of cotton fibers ranges from 1 to 55 mm. Depending on the length of the fibers, cotton is divided into short-staple (20-27 mm), medium-staple (28-34 mm) and long-staple (35-50 mm). Cotton with a length of less than 20 mm is called unspun, i.e. it cannot be made into yarn. There is a certain relationship between the length and thickness of cotton fibers: the longer the fibers, the thinner they are. Therefore, long-staple cotton is also called fine-staple cotton; it has a thickness of 125--167 millitex (mtex). The thickness of medium-staple cotton is 167--220 mtex, short-staple cotton is 220--333 mtex.

The thickness of the fibers is expressed in terms of linear density in hexes. Tex shows how many grams a piece of fiber 1 km long weighs. Millitex = mg/km. The choice of spinning system depends on the length and thickness of the fibers, which in turn affects the quality of the yarn and fabric. Thus, from long-staple cotton, thin, even in thickness, with low hairiness, dense, strong yarn of 5.0 tex and above is obtained, used for the manufacture of high-quality thin and light fabrics: cambric, voile, volte, combed satin, etc. From medium-fiber cotton produce yarn of average and above average linear density 11.8-84.0 tex, from which the bulk of cotton fabrics are produced: calico, calico, calico, carded satin, corduroy, etc. Short-staple cotton is used to produce loose, thick, uneven in thickness , fluffy yarn, sometimes with foreign impurities - 55-400 tex, used for the production of flannel, paper, flannel, etc.

Cotton fiber has numerous positive properties. It has high hygroscopicity (8-12%), so cotton fabrics have good hygienic properties. The fibers are quite strong. A distinctive feature of cotton fiber is its increased tensile strength in the wet state by 15-17%, which is explained by the doubling of the cross-sectional area of the fiber as a result of its strong swelling in water. Cotton has high heat resistance - fiber destruction does not occur up to 140°C.

Bast fibers are obtained from the stems, leaves or fruit shells of various plants. Stem bast fibers are flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, etc., leaf fibers are sisal, etc., fruit fibers are coir, obtained from the covering of coconut shells. Of the bast fibers, flax fibers are the most valuable.

Flax is an annual herbaceous plant, has two varieties: long-lasting flax and curly flax. Fibers are obtained from fiber flax. The main substance that makes up bast fibers is cellulose (about 75%). Associated substances include: lignin, pectin, fatty wax, nitrogenous, coloring, ash substances, water. Flax fiber has four to six edges with pointed ends and characteristic strokes (shifts) in individual areas, resulting from mechanical stress on the fiber during its production.

Due to its high hygienic and strength properties, flax fibers are used to produce linen fabrics (for underwear, table linen, bed linen), and summer suit and dress fabrics. At the same time, about half of linen fabrics are produced in a mixture with other fibers, a significant part of which is semi-linen underwear fabrics with cotton yarn at the base. Canvas, fire hoses, cords, shoe threads are also made from flax fibers, and coarser fabrics are made from flax tow: sack fabrics, canvas, tarpaulins, sailcloths, etc.

Hemp is obtained from the annual hemp plant. The fibers are used to produce ropes, ropes, twines, packaging and bagging fabrics.

Kenaf, jute is obtained from annual plants of the mallow and linden families. Kenaf and jute are used to produce bag and container fabrics; used for transporting and storing moisture-intensive goods.

Wool is a fiber from the removed hair of sheep, goats, camels, rabbits and other animals. Wool removed by shearing in the form of a single hairline is called fleece. Wool fibers are composed of the protein keratin, which, like other proteins, contains amino acids.

Under a microscope, wool fibers can be easily distinguished from other fibers - their outer surface is covered with scales. The scaly layer consists of small plates in the form of cone-shaped rings, strung on top of each other, and represents keratinized cells. The scaly layer is followed by the cortical layer - the main one, on which the properties of the fiber and products made from them depend. The fiber may also have a third layer - a core layer, consisting of loose, air-filled cells. Under a microscope, the peculiar crimp of the wool fibers is also visible. Depending on what layers are present in the wool, it can be of the following types: fluff, transitional hair, awn, dead hair.

Down is a thin, highly crimped, silky fiber without a core layer. Transitional hair has an intermittent, loose core layer, due to which it is uneven in thickness, strength, and has less crimp. The awn and dead hair have a large core layer and are characterized by great thickness, lack of crimp, increased rigidity and fragility, and low strength. Depending on the thickness of the fibers and the uniformity of the composition, wool is divided into fine, semi-fine, semi-coarse and coarse. Important indicators of the quality of wool fiber are its length and thickness. The length of wool affects the technology for obtaining yarn, its quality and the quality of finished products. From long fibers (55-120 mm) combed (worsted) yarn is obtained - thin, even in thickness, dense, smooth. From short fibers (up to 55 mm), hardware (cloth) yarn is obtained, which, unlike worsted, is thicker, loose, fluffy, with uneven thickness. The properties of wool are unique in their own way - it is characterized by high feltability, which is explained by the presence of a scaly layer on the surface of the fiber.

Thanks to this property, felt, cloth fabrics, felt, blankets, and felted shoes are made from wool. Wool has high heat-protective properties and is highly elastic. Alkalies have a destructive effect on wool; it is resistant to acids. Therefore, if wool fibers containing plant impurities are treated with an acid solution, then these impurities dissolve, and the wool fibers remain pure. This process of cleaning wool is called carbonization. The hygroscopicity of wool is high (15-17%), but unlike other fibers it slowly absorbs and releases moisture, remaining dry to the touch. In water it swells greatly, and the cross-sectional area increases by 30-35%. Moistened fiber in a stretched state can be fixed by drying; when re-moistened, the length of the fiber is restored again. This property of wool is taken into account during the wet-heat treatment of garments made from woolen fabrics for stretching and stretching their individual parts.

Wool is a fairly strong fiber with a high elongation at break; when wet, fibers lose 30% strength. The disadvantage of wool is its low heat resistance - at temperatures of 100-110°C, the fibers become brittle, stiff, and their strength decreases. From fine and semi-fine wool, both in pure form and mixed with other fibers (cotton, viscose, nylon, lavsan, nitron), worsted and fine cloth dress, suit, coat fabrics, non-woven fabrics, knitwear, scarves, blankets are produced. ; from semi-rough and coarse - coarse cloth coat fabrics, felted shoes, felt.

Goat down is used mainly for the production of scarves, knitwear and some dress, suit, and coat fabrics; camel wool - for the production of blankets and national products. Lower-quality fabrics, felted shoes, non-woven materials, and construction felt are produced from recovered wool.

Natural silk, in terms of its properties and cost, is the most valuable textile raw material. It is obtained by unwinding cocoons formed by silkworm caterpillars. The most widespread and valuable silk is the silkworm, which accounts for 90% of world silk production.

The homeland of silk is China, where the silkworm was cultivated 3000 BC. e. The production of silk goes through the following stages: the silkworm butterfly lays eggs (grena), from which caterpillars hatch about 3 mm long. They feed on mulberry leaves, hence the name silkworm. After a month, the caterpillar, having accumulated natural silk, through the silk-secreting glands located on both sides of the body, wraps itself in a continuous thread of 40-45 layers and forms a cocoon. Cocoon winding lasts 3-4 days. Inside the cocoon, the caterpillar turns into a butterfly, which, having made a hole in the cocoon with an alkaline liquid, comes out of it. Such a cocoon is unsuitable for further unwinding. Cocoon threads are very thin, so they are unwound simultaneously from several cocoons (6-8), connecting them into one complex thread. This thread is called raw silk. The total length of the unwinding thread is on average 1000-1300 m.

The scrap remaining after unwinding the cocoon (a thin shell that cannot be unwinded, containing about 20% of the length of the thread), rejected cocoons are processed into short fibers, from which silk yarn is obtained. Of all natural fibers, natural silk is the lightest fiber and, along with its beautiful appearance, has high hygroscopicity (11%), softness, silkiness, and low creasing. Natural silk has high strength. The breaking load of silk when wet is reduced by approximately 15%. Natural silk is resistant to acids, but not to alkalis, has low light fastness, relatively low heat resistance (100-110 ° C) and high shrinkage. Silk is used to make dress and blouse fabrics, as well as sewing threads, ribbons, and laces. Chemical fibers are obtained by chemical processing of natural (cellulose, proteins, etc.) or synthetic high-molecular substances (polyamides, polyesters).

The technological process of manufacturing chemical fibers consists of three main stages - obtaining a spinning solution, forming fibers from it and finishing the fibers. The resulting spinning solution enters the spinnerets - metal caps with small holes - and flows out of them in the form of continuous streams, which harden in a dry or wet way (air or water) and turn into filaments. The shape of the holes of the spinnerets is usually round, and to obtain profiled threads, spinnerets with holes in the form of a triangle, polyhedron, stars, etc. are used.

Artificial fibers.

Artificial fibers are obtained from natural high-molecular compounds - cellulose, proteins, metals, their alloys, silicate glasses. The most common artificial fiber is viscose, produced from cellulose. For the production of viscose fiber, wood pulp, mainly spruce pulp, is usually used. The wood is split, treated with chemicals, and turned into a spinning solution - viscose. Viscose fibers are produced in the form of complex threads and fibres, their application varies. Viscose fiber is hygienic, has high hygroscopicity (11-12%), products made from viscose absorb moisture well; it is resistant to alkalis; The heat resistance of viscose fiber is high.

But viscose fiber has disadvantages:

-- due to low elasticity, it wrinkles greatly;
-- high fiber shrinkage (6--8%);
-- when wet, it loses strength (up to 50-60%). It is not recommended to rub or twist the products.

Other artificial fibers used include acetate and triacetate fibers. Metal-containing fibers (threads) can be metallic or metallized (film with metal coating). Metal threads are monofilaments of round or flat cross-section made of aluminum foil, copper and its alloys, silver, gold and other metals. Alunit (Lurex) is a metal thread made of aluminum foil, coated on both sides with a protective antioxidant film.

Synthetic fibers.

Synthetic fibers are obtained from natural, low-molecular substances (monomers), which are converted into high-molecular substances (polymers) through chemical synthesis. Polyamide (nylon) fibers are obtained from caprolactam polymer, a low-molecular crystalline substance produced from coal or oil. In other countries, nylon fibers are called differently: in the USA, England - nylon, in Germany - dederon. Polyester fibers (lavsan) are produced under various names: in England and Canada - terylene, in the USA - dacron, in Japan - polyester. The presence of valuable consumer properties of polyester fibers has led to their widespread use in textile, knitting, and artificial fur production.

Polyacrylonitrile fibers (acrylic, nitron): in the USA - orlon, in England - kurtel, in Japan - cashmilon. Nitron fiber resembles wool in its properties and appearance. Fibers in their pure form and mixed with wool are used to produce dress and suit fabrics, artificial fur, various knitwear, and curtains and tulle products.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), chlorine fiber is produced from a solution of polyvinyl chloride resin in dimethylformamide (PVC) and from chlorinated polyvinyl chloride. These fibers differ significantly from other synthetic fibers: as a result of their low thermal conductivity, they have a high thermal insulation ability, do not burn, do not rot, and are very resistant to chemical influences.

Polyurethane fibers. By processing polyurethane resin, spandex or lycra fiber is obtained, produced in the form of monofilament. It is characterized by high elasticity, its elongation is up to 800%. It is used instead of rubber core in the production of women's toiletries and high-stretch knitwear.

Alunit is metal threads made of aluminum foil, coated with a polymer film that protects the metal from oxidation. To strengthen it, alunit is twisted with nylon threads.

Hardware cotton yarn is a fluffy, loose, thick yarn obtained from short fibers, characterized by low strength.

Hardware wool yarn is produced using a machine system from short-fiber wool and waste (spinning waste) with a thickness of 42-500 tex, loose, fluffy, uneven in thickness and strength.

Reinforced thread is a textile thread that has a complex structure consisting of a braided core, i.e. the axial thread is wrapped or tightly braided with fibers or other threads.

Asbestos fiber is a mineral fiber found in rocks. The longest fibers (10 mm or more) are processed into yarn used for the production of technical fabrics, tapes, cords, used mainly for thermal insulation.

Acetate fiber is an artificial fiber produced from solutions of partially saponified secondary cellulose acetate in acetate using a dry method (pressing through a spinneret and drying).

Viscose fiber is an artificial fiber produced from wood cellulose, converted by chemical transformations into a viscous liquid (viscose), which is pressed through spinnerets and reduced to cellulose hydrate.

Recovered (regenerated) wool is an additional source of raw materials for light industry. It is obtained from scraps of yarn during spinning and weaving, from scraps of woolen fabrics and knitwear in clothing production and waste raw materials (used fabrics and knitwear). Used in small quantities (20-35%) in a mixture with regular wool and with the addition of 10-30% synthetic fiber to reduce production costs.

High volume yarn is a yarn whose additional volume is obtained by chemical and/or heat treatment.

Combed cotton yarn is a thin, smooth, even thickness yarn obtained from long-staple cotton, characterized by the greatest strength.

Combed (worsted) wool yarn is thin, smooth, produced from long-staple wool fiber using a combed spinning system, with a thickness of 15.5-42 tex.

Coarse wool is heterogeneous wool consisting mainly of guard hairs with a thickness of 41 microns or more. Obtained by shearing sheep of coarse-wool breeds (Caucasian, Tushino, etc.).

Jute, kenaf are fibers obtained from the stems of plants of the same names, reaching a height of 3 m or more. Dry stems contain up to 21% fiber, used for technical, packaging, furniture fabrics and carpets. The largest sown areas are in India and Bangladesh.

Crimped fiber is a natural or chemical fiber that has crimp.

Man-made fiber (thread) is a chemical fiber (thread) made as a result of a production process from natural polymers through chemical processing.

Carded cotton yarn is a thick, uneven yarn produced from medium length cotton. Used for the production of cotton fabrics.

Combined thread is a textile thread consisting of complex threads or monofilaments, or complex threads that differ in chemical composition or structure, different in fibrous composition and structure.

Complex thread is a textile thread consisting of two or more longitudinally connected and twisted elementary fibers.

Crepe thread is characterized by high (crepe) twist. To obtain natural silk crepe, 2-5 threads of raw silk are twisted to 2200-3200 kr/m, and then they are steamed to fix the twist. Crepe from complex chemical threads is obtained by twisting one thread up to 1500-200 cr/m. Due to the high twist, fabrics made from crepe threads are characterized by significant elasticity, rigidity, and roughness.

Twisted thread is a textile thread twisted from one or more textile threads.

Twisted yarn is a textile thread twisted from two or more yarns.

Flax is a bast fiber obtained from the stems of a plant of the same name. Fiber flax with a long (up to 1 m) and thin (1-2 mm in diameter) stem is cultivated for fiber.

Bast fiber is long prosenchymal cells in the stems of various plants, devoid of part of the contents of the plant stem. Fibers from bast crops (flax, nettle, hemp, etc.) are used to produce yarn.

Wet-spun linen yarn is produced with a thickness of 24-200 tex from long fiber and tow, while the roving (a semi-finished flax product) is thin and uniform in thickness and is wetted before spinning.

Dry-spun linen yarn is produced from flax fiber and tow, uneven in thickness, 33-666 tex.

Lurex is a thread in the form of a shiny narrow metal strip covered with foil or a metallized film.

Copper-ammonia fiber is produced from a solution of cellulose in a copper-ammonia complex, with properties close to viscose. Production is limited, as it is associated with significant copper consumption (50 g per 1 kg of fiber).

Multi-twist thread is a twisted thread of two or more textile threads, one of which is single-twist, twisted together in one or more twisting operations.

Modified thread (fiber) is a textile thread (fiber) with specified specific properties, obtained by additional chemical or physical modification.

Mooskrep is a double twist thread. Mooskrep from natural silk is produced by twisting a crepe thread with 2-3 threads of raw silk. Mooscrep from artificial threads is obtained by caning and subsequent twisting of crepe thread and flat twist thread. The second twist is made in the direction of the crepe thread at approximately 200 cr/m. The crepe thread is a core thread, and a raw silk thread or a flat twist thread is a surge thread that wraps around the core thread.

Muslin is a thin thread with a medium twist. Natural silk muslin is produced by twisting one thread of raw silk up to 1500-1800 cr/m, followed by steaming to fix the twist. Muslin from a complex chemical thread (viscose, acetate, nylon) is produced by twisting the thread up to 600-800 cr/m.

Maron (nylon), melan (lavsan) are tensile threads, obtained, like high-tensile threads, by chemical treatment, but with additional heat treatment with some stretching. As a result of this, the spiral-shaped tortuosity characteristic of elastic turns into a sinusoidal one and is fixed in this state. The threads are soft, fluffy, elongation 30-50%.

Natural fiber is a textile fiber of natural origin.

Natural silk is a product of the secretion of the silk glands of silkworm caterpillars - the protein substance fibroin - in the form of a thin continuous thread curled into a cocoon. At the moment the cocoon is formed, the caterpillars secrete two thin silks, which harden when exposed to air. At the same time, the protein substance sericin is released, which glues the mulberries together.

Heterogeneous thread is a textile thread consisting of fibers of different nature.

A single thread is an untwisted, untwisted thread or an untroubled twisted thread that has received a twist in one twisting operation.

Single Twist Thread - A twisted thread made from two or more single strands twisted together in a single twisting operation.

Homogeneous thread is a textile thread consisting of textile fibers of the same nature.

Homogeneous yarn is a yarn consisting of fibers of the same type.

Hemp is produced from an annual tall hemp plant. Hemp is divided into filament hemp (thin), used for making yarn, industrial hemp (thick, coarse), from which technical fabrics are produced, and rope hemp - for ropes.

Overtrace yarn is yarn with alternating thickening and thinning.

Film textile thread is a flat filament thread obtained by splitting a textile film or extruding in the form of a strip.

Polyacrylonitrile fiber (nitron) is a synthetic fiber formed from solutions of polyacrylonitrile or copolymers containing more than 85% (by weight) acrylonitrile using a wet or dry method. Produced under the following trade names: orlon, acrylon (USA), cashmilon (Japan), dralon (Germany), etc.

Polyamide fiber is a synthetic fiber formed from polyamide melts. It is made from polycaprolactam under the following trade names: nylon (Russia), nylon (Japan), perlon, dederon (Germany), amelan (Japan), etc.

Polyvinyl alcohol fiber is a synthetic fiber formed from solutions of polyvinyl alcohol, produced in many countries under the following names: vinol (Russia), vinylon, kuralon (Japan), vinalon (DPRK), etc.

Polyvinyl chloride fiber is a synthetic fiber formed from solutions of polyvinyl chloride, perchlorovinyl resin or vinyl chloride copolymers using a dry or wet method; is produced in the form of continuous threads or staple fibers under the following trade names: chlorin, saran, vignon (USA), roville (France), Teviron (Japan), etc.

Polynose fiber is a type of viscose fiber with a high degree of orientation of macromolecules in the structure and homogeneity of the structure in the cross section, as a result of which it has high strength and low elongation.

Polypropylene fiber is a synthetic fiber formed from a melt of polypropylene. Due to its low density, it is used for the manufacture of non-sinking ropes, nets, filter and upholstery materials; staple polypropylene fibers - for the production of blankets, fabrics, and outerwear. Textured (high volume) polypropylene fibers are used primarily in the carpet industry. They are produced under various trade names: Herculon (USA), Ulstrene (Great Britain), Found (Japan), Mercalone (Italy), etc.

Polyester fiber (lavsan) is a synthetic fiber formed from a melt of polyethylene terephthalate (synthesis of petroleum distillation products). Technical thread made from polyester fibers is used in the manufacture of conveyor belts, drive belts, ropes, sails, etc. Monofilament is used to make nets for paper-making machines, strings for rackets, etc. High-volume thread is obtained using the “false twist” method.

Semi-coarse wool - consists of transitional hair fibers and relatively thin awn fibers with a thickness of 35-40 microns. They get it from fine-fleece-coarse-wool sheep (Zadonsky, steppe, Volga, etc.).

Semi-fine wool is a homogeneous wool consisting of coarse fibers, 25-35 microns thick, classified as fluff or transitional hair. Obtained by shearing semi-fine fleece sheep (precut, Kazakh, Kuibyshev, etc.).

Yarn is a textile thread consisting of fibers of limited length (natural or staple chemical), connected into a long thread by spinning (orientation and twisting of the fibers).

Nepsed yarn is yarn with spun inclusions of fibers of a different color or type.

Ramie is a fiber produced from perennial grasses and shrubs of the nettle family, containing up to 21% of durable silky fiber in dry stems.

Fleece is a continuous layer obtained by shearing sheep, consisting of tufts of wool firmly held next to each other - staples.

Siblon is a modified durable viscose fiber with uniform properties of both external and internal layers, achieved by regenerating cellulose at low temperatures in the precipitation bath and flowing out the fiber at high temperatures (95 ° C).

Synthetic fiber (thread) is a chemical fiber (thread) made from synthetic fiber-forming polymers (polyamide, polyester, etc.).

Blended yarn is a yarn consisting of two or more types of fibers.

Spandex is a polyurethane monofilament with high elongation - up to 700-800%.

Glass filaments are filaments obtained by pressing molten glass mass through thin holes. The flowing streams, cooling, turn into flexible threads. The main application is heat and electrical insulation, filters.

Raw yarn is gray-yellow yarn without any finishing.

Textile tape (roving) is a set of longitudinally oriented staple fibers of a given linear density without twist, intended for subsequent mechanical processing (pulling, twisting).

Textile monofilament thread (monofilament thread) is an elementary thread used for the direct manufacture of textile products.

Textile thread is a textile product of unlimited length and relatively small cross-section, consisting of textile fibers and/or filaments, with or without twist.

Textile fiber is a thin, flexible, extended body of limited length, suitable for making yarn and threads.

Textured thread is a crimped textile thread, the structure of which, through additional processing, has an increased specific volume and elongation.

Heat-fixed thread (fiber) is a textile thread (fiber) subjected to heat or thermal moisture treatment in order to bring its structure to an equilibrium state.

Fine wool is a homogeneous wool consisting only of fluff fibers, up to 25 microns thick, with fine uniform crimp, soft, elastic, of the same length. It is obtained from fine-wool sheep (Merino, Tsigai) and is used for high-quality fabrics and knitwear.

Triacetate fiber is obtained from solutions of triacetylcellulose in a mixture of methylene chloride and alcohol using a dry method.

Spun thread is a textile thread consisting of two or more threads joined without twisting.

Shaped thread is a textile thread that has periodically repeating local changes in structure in the form of knots, loops and coloring.

Fibrillated film thread is a film textile thread with longitudinal cuts, having transverse connections between fibrils. Fibrils in this case are structural elements with a fineness of the same order as that of textile fibers.

Chemical fiber (thread) is a textile fiber (thread) obtained as a result of a production process from artificial, synthetic polymers or inorganic substances.

Cotton is the fiber from the surface of the seeds of the cotton plant, an annual shrub that grows in warm climates. There are long-staple cotton (34-50 mm), medium-staple cotton (24-35 mm) and short-staple cotton (up to 27 mm).

Raw cotton is the raw material of cotton gins; it contains a large amount of cotton seeds, covered with cotton fiber, with admixtures of leaves, parts of bolls, etc.

Silk yarn is made from natural silk waste (scraping of defective cocoons), which is cleaned of impurities, boiled and split into individual fibers (up to 7 tex).

Warp silk is a double twist thread of 2-4 strands of raw silk. First, threads of raw silk are twisted to the left by 400-600 kr/m, and then 2-3 such threads are caned and twisted to the right by 480-600 kr/m. With secondary reverse twist, the primary twist is slightly reduced, resulting in a soft twisted thread.

Raw silk is the product of unwinding cocoons on special cocoon-winding machines, where several (4-9) threads folded together are wound on a reel.

Weft silk is a flat twist thread obtained by twisting 2-5 or more threads of raw silk with a flat twist (125 twists per 1 m). The thread is soft, even, smooth, 9.1-7.1 tex thick.

Wool is the hair fiber of various animals: sheep, goats, camels, etc.

Staple fiber is an elementary fiber of limited length, which is obtained by cutting a tow of chemical fibers.

Staple fiber in the mass is a disordered mass of elementary fibers of limited length.

Elastic - (from the Greek Elastos - flexible, viscous) highly tensile textured threads with high (up to 40%) elongation, spiral crimp and fluffiness. It is produced on “false torsion” machines by imparting a twist of 2500-3000 kr/m to the thread and then removing the resulting internal stresses in a heat chamber (150-180 °C). As a result, the thread takes the shape of a spiral. Elastic is used to make hosiery.

Elementary thread (filament) is a single textile thread of practically unlimited length, considered as endless.

Elemental fiber is a textile fiber that is a single, indivisible element.

Natural fibers, depending on the chemical composition, are divided into two subclasses: organic (plant and animal origin) and mineral fibers of plant origin: cotton, flax, hemp, jute, kenaf, kendyr, ramie, rope, sisal, etc.

Fibers of animal origin: wool of sheep, goats, camels and other animals, natural silk of mulberry and oak silkworms. Asbestos is a mineral fiber.

Chemical fibers are divided into two subclasses: artificial and synthetic. Artificial fibers are divided into organic (viscose fiber, acetate, triacetate, copper-ammonia, mtilon B, siblon, polynose, etc.) and inorganic (glass and metal fibers and threads). Synthetic fibers, depending on the nature of the starting materials, are divided into polyamide (nylon, anide, enanth), polyester (lavsan), polyacrylonitrile (nitron), polyolefin (polypropylene, polyethylene), polyurethane (spandex), polyvinyl alcohol (vinol), polyvinyl chloride (chlorine) , fluorine-containing (fluorlon), as well as polyformaldehyde, polybutylene terephthalate, etc.

Artificial fibers.

Hygroscopicity is less than that of viscose, so they become electrified. Fabrics made from triacetate fiber have low creasing and shrinkage, but lose strength when wet. Due to their high elasticity, the fabrics retain their shape and finishes (corrugated and pleated) well. High heat resistance allows you to iron fabrics made of acetate and triacetate fibers at 150-160°C.

Textile fibers and threads. General characteristics and classification

Man-made fibers

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