Ventilation ducts in private. How to calculate the diameter and length of ventilation pipes

This article will discuss ventilation in a private house. Namely, how the correct supply ventilation of the house and the correct exhaust ventilation of the house are arranged. In addition, the ventilation scheme of a house with recuperation and the types of air ducts for the ventilation system of a private house will be discussed in general terms.

Ventilation in a private house is installed according to the following algorithm: first we calculate the air exchange and select the cross-section of the air ducts, select the type of ventilation system. Then a ventilation scheme in a private house is drawn up - we determine the installation location of the ventilation equipment, the places where fresh air is taken in and exhaust air is discharged, and the places where the air ducts will pass.

Ventilation system - natural or mechanical

For a person’s comfortable stay in the house, it is important not only the presence of fresh air and its temperature, but also the speed of air flow. And the smaller it is, the more comfortable it is to be in the room. The air exchange in a room with mechanical supply and exhaust ventilation (supply and exhaust fans) is greater than in a room with natural ventilation. This is due to the different normalized volumetric speed of air movement in the ventilation system for them. For mechanical ventilation it is 3-5 m 3 /hour, and for natural ventilation no more than 1 m 3 /hour, that is, 3-5 times less. Therefore, natural ventilation of the house creates more comfortable conditions for a person.

But there is one “but”, because of which it is sometimes impossible to do without mechanical ventilation. The fact is that the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the larger its cross-section is needed. Those. in order to pass the same amount of air - the cross-section of the ventilation duct natural ventilation will be more than mechanical. For example, if we talk about hood, then in order to pass 300 m 3 /hour of air you will need a channel of 250x400 mm (or 350 mm in diameter) with natural air movement, or a 160x200 mm channel (or 200 mm in diameter) with mechanical hood. It is not always possible to place a large natural exhaust duct in the wall, and move it outside the wall - under the ceiling or along the wall (as in office premises) is not always aesthetically pleasing residential buildings. Therefore, with large areas of the house and correspondingly large figures for the required hood, it is often necessary to resort to mechanical hood. The flow of air into the room is also not always possible to achieve only in a natural way, more about this later.

Air flow

Scheme of organizing flow in a ventilated space

1 - air flow zone; 2 - air flow zone; 3 - air exhaust zone.

Whatever the type of inflow and exhaust (natural or mechanical), in order for the air to move freely throughout the house from air supply devices to exhaust, you need to install transfer grilles in the doors along the path of its movement. The flow of air is considered to be organized correctly if the most polluted room in the chain of air movement is the last. That is why the hood is usually installed in the kitchen and bathroom.

Door with overflow grille

Or leave a gap between the bottom of the door and the floor, at least 20 mm across the entire width of the door.

Gap under the door for free air movement

If there is no such gap in the doors, then the entire ventilation system in the house can be considered not working. In addition, you will hardly be able to open doors without ventilation grille leading to a bathroom with a running exhaust fan (due to overpressure).

Air flow

What causes the air flow, how to understand whether there is enough air in your home and what measures to take to increase the amount of supply air we will consider further.

As already mentioned, air flow can be carried out naturally or forcefully.

Infiltration is a natural influx through leaks in external barriers (windows, external doors and walls of the house).

Natural air flow through leaks in window and door openings

As is known, ordinary wooden windows old-style ones have quite high air permeability (about 10-20 kg/hour*m2). With a small house area, about 100-140 m2, the volume of supply air penetrating through the cracks and the leakage of such windows is usually sufficient to ensure the necessary inflow. In addition, it is also added to, not so significant, but nevertheless, the flow of air through the leaks of the external doors, as well as the flow through the walls.

Natural influx through ventilation

Ventilation through an open window or crack when the folding frame of a metal-plastic window is slightly opened

Metal-plastic windows in ventilation position

Resulting in large heat losses;

As a result of such ventilation in winter period is cooling down window unit and adjacent slopes, up to the formation of condensation on them;

Air exchange ( complete replacement old air to new) is carried out in 30-75 minutes.

Ventilation with fully open windows

Ventilation with fully open windows

Fast air exchange in the room - only 4-10 minutes;

There is no cooling effect on structures.

Ventilation with windows and front door fully open

Ventilation by opening all windows and the front door

Dangerous draft;

The fastest air exchange is 2-4 minutes when all windows of the house and the front door are opened.

Note: If it is necessary to ensure a single air exchange in a room (Table 4 DBN V.2.2-15-2005 Residential buildings), this means that within an hour in this room a complete exchange of air for new air must be carried out. And if ventilation is the only source of fresh air in your house (for example, the walls of the house are insulated with airtight foam insulation or EPS and are airtight metal-plastic windows), then to ensure a microclimate that is comfortable and safe for your health, you must ventilate this room every hour using one of the methods described above. If you see this option as inconvenient or simply impossible for you, then consider installing supply valves, which will be discussed further.

Natural inflow through supply wall and window valves

In the last decade, the installation of windows made of metal-plastic has become very popular, one of the features of which is tightness. And the technology for installing such windows does not provide for leaks to remain. Thus we are deprived of natural influx. The air permeability of metal-plastic windows is no more than 0.1 kg/hour*m2, i.e. practically zero. What to do in such a situation? The solution is simple. Firstly, when choosing and ordering windows, we recommend considering the option of window units with an already built-in adjustable ventilation slot in the upper part window box- supply window valve.

Window with supply valve

If the windows have already been selected, purchased and installed, you can install an air infiltration valve - a supply wall valve.

Wall supply valve

The supply wall valve is a round pipe, which is mounted into the wall (through and through), and is closed with grilles on both sides. The internal valve grid is adjustable from fully closed to fully open. It is advisable to install this valve near window openings, then they can be masked with tulle, and the incoming air will also enter the radiators that are located under the windows.

Air flow in the radiator coverage area

For the same purpose, you can install a valve directly behind the battery, then the incoming air will immediately warm up.

Installing a supply valve directly behind the radiator

Valves can be equipped with filters, as well as humidity and temperature sensors. It is recommended to install dampers in the bedroom, hall and dining room in order to maintain the direction of air movement from clean areas ( living rooms) in household (kitchen, toilet, bathroom).

The same valves often have to be installed in houses insulated with vapor-proof insulation, such as polystyrene foam or EPS. The walls become vapor-tight, and accordingly the amount of supply air in the house decreases.

Most supply valves supply 50 or 100 m3/h of fresh air. In order to select the required number of valves, you need to make a calculation required quantity supply air (L pr) using the calculation given in the article.

House with installed wall inlet valve

Forced inflow using suction fans

There are cases when the required air flow is so great that it is necessary to install supply valves under almost every window in the house, but you don’t want to do this, for example, for aesthetic reasons. Then a forced air system is right for you.

The supply system consists of ventilation equipment and a ventilation network. Equipment includes: air valve, filter, heater, fan and silencer. And the network includes the air intake grille, air ducts and air distribution devices (grills, diffusers, anemostats). A set of supply ventilation equipment is shown in the figure below. A filter in the supply ventilation system is necessary to remove large dust particles that are present in the street air. Heater - for heating air during the cold season, they are not available in all systems, they are installed at the request of the customer and can be water or electric. When using water heaters, the ventilation system must be additionally equipped mixing units(hydraulic piping of the heater), which in turn increases the cost of the system.

Scheme of a set of equipment for supply ventilation

If the house has mechanical not only air supply, but also air exhaust, then it makes sense to install air recovery system in order to save electricity for heating the supply air. The recovery system will be discussed in more detail a little later.

Air extraction

If the cottage is being built from scratch, then it is necessary to provide for ventilation ducts in interior walls bathrooms, toilets, kitchens. Channels should be made from brickwork in internal walls (as a rule, they are designed in the architectural section of the project).

Brick ventilation duct

Therefore, exhaust ventilation in a private house is planned before the construction of walls begins. If it is not possible to place ventilation ducts in the wall, then they can be made in the form of attached shafts.

Types of ventilation ducts

a - placement of ventilation ducts in a brick wall;

b - ventilation ducts;

c - suspended ventilation duct;

d - output to the roof of the ventilation shaft.

Natural exhaust

If the amount of air that needs to be removed (L out) is small, and the cross-section selected according to the diagram exhaust duct fits in the wall (or does not fit, but you are ready to make an additional channel), then you can get by with a natural hood. The channel from inside the room, in this case, is simply closed with a ventilation grill.

Various types of ventilation grilles

Mechanical hood

If the channel cross-section at natural exhaust is too large, then it can be reduced if the hood is made mechanical by installing exhaust fans in bathrooms and toilets.

Exhaust fans

There are many types and types of exhaust fans for bathrooms and bathrooms on the ventilation equipment market. The most popular are wall fans, which are mounted on the wall and go directly into the ventilation duct. And fans hidden installation, they are mounted in the ceiling space and are also discharged into the duct through an air duct. We select the fan based on the pre-calculated exhaust flow rate (L exhaust), taking into account pressure losses when air moves through the air ducts. Those. the fan is not selected specifically for the L out figure, but with a margin for pressure losses, which sellers of ventilation equipment can usually calculate if you tell them the length and material of your air ducts.

The control of a mechanical hood for bathrooms is often connected to a light switch. Such hoods can be delayed in time, for example, by 50 seconds, after they are turned on (a person has time to wash their hands) or with a delay of 50 seconds after turning off the light. Bathroom fans can be equipped with humidity sensors, i.e. work until normal humidity is established in the room. These hoods are a little more expensive than regular ones.

A completely silent fan, of course, can only be in the off state, but there are fan models that are quieter than others, for example those equipped with noise-reducing rubber-metal bushings. They dampen noise and vibration from engine operation.

Supply flow implementation scheme exhaust ventilation in a buiding

1- exhaust fan; 2 - air flow through leaks window opening; 3 - air flow through the supply valve; 4 - flow grille in the doorway.

Air movement on the floor

Ventilation systems with recovery

IN Lately became very popular air handling units with energy recovery. This is explained by the fact that when fresh supply air enters the house during the cold season, we spend great amount thermal energy for heating it. Recuperation systems allow you to save about 50% of heat due to partial heating of the supply (cold) air with the exhaust (warm) air. Partly because the heat from the exhaust air is not always enough to warm up the cold supply air up to +20 ºС. Therefore, in severe frosts, the supply air is heated by a heater built into the recuperator. In such a system, both the supply and exhaust are mechanical, since air is supplied and removed forcibly by supply and exhaust fans, as can be seen in the figure below.

Operating principle of the recovery system

If the house has air conditioning systems, then summer period the supply air will be partially cooled. This in turn will reduce the load on the air conditioning systems. The operating principle is as follows: the exhaust air cooled by the air conditioning system, passing through the recuperator, cools the warmer supply air.

Location of recovery system equipment

In cottages with large area air exchange sometimes exceeds 800m 3 /hour. Consequently, the dimensions of mechanical ventilation units will be large. It is best to determine in advance their installation location; this could be a technical room in ground floor or attic space. If an attic is selected, it must be insulated to prevent freezing of the coolant and damage to ventilation equipment (if equipment for indoor installation). Below, the figures show examples of the location of ventilation system equipment with recovery in the attic (a) and in the technical room (b).

Figure a. An example of supply and exhaust ventilation in a house with ventilation equipment placed in the attic

Figure b. An example of supply and exhaust ventilation in a house with the placement of ventilation equipment in a technical room

Types of air ducts

With the forced ventilation option, air ducts are used to distribute supply air throughout the house and remove exhaust air (for example, as in the air recovery system in the figure above). Which is better to use an air duct: round, rectangular or flexible?

Round duct

In round air ducts with a perfectly smooth surface, the most low resistance air movement, more in rectangular ones.

Rectangular duct

In flexible air ducts, the air resistance is the greatest, due to the uneven corrugated surface. But they are the only ones suitable in cases where the channel turns several times over a short section or when, for example, a kitchen hood needs to be connected to the main (main) channel.

Flexible duct

For example, the wiring of air ducts at home can be done as follows: the main air ducts can be made rigid (galvanized), and the branches can be made with flexible corrugated air ducts. Air ducts from the intake grille to ventilation unit(or up to the heater with a dial system) must be insulated to prevent condensation.

Kitchen hood

Kitchen hood

Often, when configuring a home ventilation system, the question arises: is it taken into account when calculating ventilation that part of the air is removed by the kitchen hood? No, it is not taken into account. This is due to the fact that kitchen hood It turns on only occasionally and you simply cannot count on it when it is idle. After all, a kitchen hood is designed to remove odors, steam and, above all, harmful substances in the place of their formation - above the slab.

In this article we looked at possible options ensuring proper inflow and exhaust in the cottage. I hope they will help fill the walls of your home with fresh and clean air.

The secret dream of many of our compatriots is a beautiful country house. Professionals know that at the design stage it is necessary to provide for every little detail, especially communication solutions for the future building. And few people know how to make ventilation in a private house in such a way that it is comfortable to live in at any time of the year.

Competently organized system the influx and removal of air masses in the living space can provide:

• additional protection of premises from fungal and mold spores, dampness;
• circulation of oxygen in each room;
• comfortable conditions for work and relaxation at home.

Show all

Which rooms require ventilation?

Without access to clean air human body unable to function normally. In a residential building, it is necessary to ensure the flow of oxygen primarily in the nursery, bedroom and living room. Don't neglect the kitchen and bathroom. In these small spaces often records a high concentration of humidity, as well as characteristic odors (most of them not very pleasant), which require release to the external environment.

note! A properly implemented ventilation device in a private home will eliminate the likelihood of dirt, accumulation of dust, condensation, stuffiness, and will also prevent mold and harmful microorganisms from spreading throughout the home..



Features of the implementation of the air exchange system

Traditionally, experts distinguish two types of implementation of air exchange systems in residential buildings:

• natural;
• mechanical (forced);
• mixed (the first type is supplemented with a forced exhaust device).

From the technical side of the issue, home ventilation systems are classified into the following categories:

• functional purpose;
• method of moving air masses (ducted, ductless);
• device that moves air.

But how not to make a mistake in choosing? What kind of cottage ventilation provides comfortable conditions for those who live in it? Note that each option has both obvious “pros” and obvious “cons”. To better understand the problems of the issue, we should dwell on them in more detail.



Natural ventilation of a residential building is determined by the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. The entire process is based on physical laws and does not require human intervention. Its essence is as follows:

1. 1. Since the air temperature indoors is higher than outside, the air becomes light. Due to this, it moves through the ventilation duct to the street.
2. 2. A partially rarefied mass is formed inside the room, facilitating the influx of fresh oxygen through small openings located in the structure of the object.
3. 3. The received masses are heavier in structure. They are located in the lower part of the premises, which is why floor ventilation in a private house is so important and is an integral part of the air exchange system.

note! As the temperature rises, the exchange through the wall occurs faster, especially if it is supplemented by wind.

Modern residential buildings are practically devoid of cracks and small holes, so natural ones, as a rule, do not work in a private house. Inflow is possible exclusively through small valves built into walls and windows.

System advantages:

• No emergency situations. Structural simplicity eliminates the slightest breakdowns or malfunctions.
• Economical. Ventilation in country house carried out automatically, optional equipment(and with it financial costs) are not required.
• Flexibility. The device can be easily complemented with air conditioning and filtration solutions.
• Silence.

Natural ventilation in a private house

The natural ventilation system of a private house is not able to provide a forced flow of air, which greatly increases the risk of the formation of fungi, mold, and unpleasant odors. Such “neighbors” not only destroy the building, but also harm people’s health. It is not surprising that in the 21st century they are practically not used. Forced ventilation of the cottage is much more effective.



Forced ventilation system

Photo of forced ventilation

A mechanical system through which air masses are set in motion artificially - through injection devices (compressors, pumps, fans). Such ventilation in a cottage is much preferable. Forced air exchange has the following advantages:

1. 1. Oxygen can be pre-humidified and heated, thereby creating a comfortable environment.
2. 2. Ventilation country house autonomous and in no way dependent on the environment.

As for the shortcomings, they are obvious:

• To organize such a system, additional equipment is required, implementation at the design stage, and electricity costs;
• regular maintenance during operation.

Mechanical ventilation in a private house can be implemented using several methods. Experts distinguish the following types:

• exhaust - “old” air is removed from the room using appropriate mechanical solutions;
• inlet – a private house is saturated with air from the street forcibly;
• supply and exhaust - supply and removal of air masses is carried out mechanically.

Ventilation of a private house. Forced ventilation(general review).

If we are talking about a fairly large area brick house or cottage, it is advisable to choose a mixed type option. Its main advantage is the excellent combination of forced and natural systems.

Proper organization of ventilation in suburban housing

So, how to properly make ventilation in a house and is it possible to carry out all the activities yourself? Competent organization the air exchange process will improve the microclimate in the living space, as well as maintain the integrity of all structures. Regardless of the room, do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a private house is carried out in several stages:

• determine the amount needed clean air to ensure compliance with accepted sanitary standards;
• calculate the diameter and cross-sectional size for the air duct system - this value will determine the atmosphere in the living space;
• choose optimal scheme ventilation in a private house (carefully weighing all the advantages and disadvantages of each of them);
• prepare a plan diagram for air channels (a competent approach will ensure effective operation);
• determine where ventilation will be installed in a private house;
• the next step is to install zones for the influx and removal of air masses;
• build the system itself for multi-apartment living space.

Deciding on the optimal system

Photo of a typical project

Professionals emphasize that in a private home it is customary to start at the stage of preparing documentation for future housing. Qualitative criterion of any modern project– availability of all communications necessary for comfortable life of people. And in this context, the presence of fresh air is an important component of harmonizing the surrounding space.

note! Not only the ventilation itself in the house is important, but also the speed of movement of the oxygen itself.

Many cottage owners do not perform any preliminary calculations, but equip their homes with powerful mechanical systems. In this case, fans can forcefully cool the interior space. Experts emphasize that exhaust hood in a private home should be natural if there is no need for additional air exchange. Due to its natural nature, it guarantees a natural humidity regime for everyone within the living space.

Proper ventilation in a private house is created with your own hands based on a given norm of volumetric air velocity. If we are talking about a mechanical solution, the corresponding value can vary from 3 to 5 m 3 /hour. The natural system provides a run of up to 1 m 3 /hour. The difficulty is that if housing has basements, then you can’t do without a compulsory system.

note ! To pass 300 m 3 /hour of fresh air, you will need a channel with dimensions of 250x400 mm, which corresponds to the standard d 350 mm. However, if you equip a mechanical system, you can stop at a channel of 160x200 mm or d 200 mm.

The video below provides information on how the ventilation system in a country house works:

Ventilation in a private house: calculated data

Ventilation of a private house is based on careful calculations. The determining factors for this approach are:

• object area;
• number of permanent residents;
• volume of air in each room.

Advice! Professionals strongly recommend taking everything into account Appliances And technical means, operating in living rooms, since they actively absorb clean air.

Installation of ventilation in a cottage is possible only if all the listed factors are taken into account. For proper calculations, you should use special tabular data and diagrams. The easiest way to equip a hood in a private house with your own hands is to carry out calculations by taking into account the area of ​​a specific object.

This method is most often used for residential properties. In accordance with the standards for such premises, each “square” must have at least 3 m 3 /hour of clean air, and this does not take into account people. To calculate this value, it is necessary to calculate the air norm per area of ​​the object.

Example ! How to make a hood in a private house with an area of ​​90 square meters? The air exchange rate value is set using the following formula: 90x3 = 270 m 3 /hour. This will be enough for living space.

Ventilation duct and its cross-section

Having calculated the optimal level of oxygen exchange, select best scheme ventilation in a private house for DIY implementation, count the ventilation ducts. Regardless of where such a system is planned to be installed, in the underground or in the ceiling area, there are only 2 types of air ducts with a rigid structure - round and rectangular.

Provide average speed air exchange at a level of 5 m/s, if we talk about branches - no more than 3 m/s. IN natural system the specified value does not exceed 1 m/s.

You can read about the pros and cons of plastic pipes for ventilation in the article: Plastic pipes for ventilation

To organize effective ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to decide on the optimal cross-section of the channel. To do this, use a special diagram that takes into account the flow of air masses and the speed of their passage. Before making ventilation in the house or carrying out installation activities, please note that normative meaning air exchange is 360 m 3 /hour for systems forced type. Therefore, the optimal value for air ducts will be d200 mm or 160 x 200 mm.

Plastic air ducts rectangular section in the video below

Ventilation in the house, plastic air ducts - installation and installation

When thinking about how to ventilate a house, many of our compatriots forget that their homes have metal-plastic windows, whose design is absolutely airtight. In this case, care should be taken to ensure that the frame of metal-plastic solutions contains supply valves, through which air masses flow into the interior space.

note! If there is no hole in the windows, you can make one in the wall. We are talking about a standard pipe having round shape, which is placed in the hole made. On both sides it is covered with protective metal grilles with a small cross-section.

Ventilation of the basement of a private house is carried out in a similar way. Enough to stick simple recommendations and creating a favorable microclimate within the living space will not be difficult. In such a room, every person will feel as comfortable as possible.

is a system in which there is no forced driving force: a fan or other unit, and the flow of air occurs under the influence of pressure differences. The main components of the system are vertical channels starting in the ventilated room and ending at least 1 m above the roof level. The calculation of their number, as well as the determination of their location, is carried out at the design stage of the structure.

The temperature difference at the lower and upper points of the duct causes the air (it is warmer in the house than outside) to rise upward. The main indicators that affect the traction force are: the height and cross-section of the channel. In addition to them, the efficiency of the natural ventilation system is affected by the thermal insulation of the shaft, turns, obstacles, narrowing in the passages, as well as wind, and it can either contribute to the draft or reduce it.

Such a system has a fairly simple arrangement and does not require significant costs both during installation and during operation. It does not include mechanisms with electric drives, it operates silently. But natural ventilation also has disadvantages:

• operational efficiency directly depends on atmospheric phenomena, so it is not used optimally for most of the year;
• performance cannot be adjusted, the only thing that needs to be adjusted is air exchange, and then only downward;
• in the cold season it causes significant heat loss;
• does not work in hot weather (there is no temperature difference) and air exchange is possible only through open vents;
• If work is ineffective, dampness and drafts may occur in the room.

Performance standards and natural ventilation channels

The optimal location for the channels is a niche in the wall of the building. When laying it should be remembered that the best traction will be when it is level and smooth surface air ducts To service the system, that is, cleaning, you need to design a built-in hatch with a door. To prevent debris and various sediments from ending up inside the mines, a deflector is installed above them.

According to building regulations the minimum performance of the system should be based on the following calculation: in those rooms where people are constantly present, the air should be completely renewed every hour. As for other premises, the following should be removed:

• from the kitchen - at least 60 m³/hour when using an electric stove and at least 90 m³/hour when using a gas stove;
• baths, toilets - at least 25 m³/hour, if the bathroom is combined, then at least 50 m³/hour.

When designing a ventilation system for cottages, the most optimal model is one that involves laying a common exhaust pipe through all rooms. But if this is not possible, then the ventilation ducts are laid from:

Table 1. Ventilation air exchange rate.

• bathroom;
• kitchens;
• storage room - provided that its door opens into the living room. If it leads to the hall or kitchen, then only a supply duct can be installed;
• boiler room;
• from rooms that are separated from rooms with ventilation by more than two doors;
• if the house has several floors, then starting from the second, if there is entrance doors From the stairs, channels are also laid from the corridor, and if there are none, from each room.

When calculating the number of channels, it is necessary to take into account how the floor on the first floor is equipped. If it is wooden and mounted on joists, then a separate passage is provided for air ventilation in the voids under such a floor.

In addition to determining the number of air ducts, the calculation of the ventilation system includes determining optimal cross section channels.

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Channel parameters and ventilation calculations

When laying air ducts, both rectangular blocks and pipes can be used. In the first case, the minimum side size is 10 cm. In the second, the smallest cross-sectional area of ​​the air duct is 0.016 m², which corresponds to a pipe diameter of 150 mm. A channel with such parameters can pass a volume of air equal to 30 m³/hour, provided that the pipe height is more than 3 m (with a lower value, natural ventilation is not provided).

Table 2. Ventilation channel performance.

If it is necessary to increase the performance of the air duct, then either the cross-sectional area of ​​the pipe expands or the length of the channel increases. The length, as a rule, is determined by local conditions - the number and height of floors, the presence of an attic. In order for the traction force in each of the air ducts to be equal, the length of the channels on the floor must be the same.

To determine what size ventilation ducts need to be laid, it is necessary to calculate the amount of air that needs to be removed. It is assumed that outside air enters the premises, then it is distributed into rooms with exhaust shafts and is exhausted through them.

The calculation is made floor by floor:

1. The smallest amount of air that should come from outside is determined - Q p, m³/hour, the value is found according to the table from SP 54.13330.2011 “Residential multi-apartment buildings” (Table 1);
2. According to the standards, the smallest amount of air that needs to be removed from the house is determined - Q in, m³/hour. The parameters are specified in the section “Performance standards and natural ventilation channels”;
3. The obtained indicators are compared. The minimum productivity - Q р, m³/hour - is taken to be the largest of them;
4. For each floor, the height of the channel is determined. This parameter is set based on the dimensions of the entire building;
5. According to the table (Table 2), the number of standard channels is found, and their total performance should not be less than the minimum calculated;
6. The resulting number of channels is distributed between rooms where air ducts must be present.

Residents of high-rise buildings who decide to move to the private sector expect that closeness to nature and the desire for privacy will immediately appear in all their glory. There will be no dull urban landscapes in the window, no noise will be heard from the windows big city, there will be no odors that inevitably appear from transport and the fruits of the life activity of many people living compactly. You can breathe clean natural air, and enjoy life. But imagine the surprise of new households when the windows in their country home fog up, the air turns out to be very humid, which is very difficult to breathe, and at the same time it can carry with it the “aromas” of the basement. And in this case, beautiful landscapes will not be so pleasing to the eye. And this phenomenon is far from uncommon. The diagnosis here is clear - problems with ventilation.

What would any normal person do if he finds himself in a similar situation? Naturally, he will try to contact specialized organizations that professionally deal with ventilation. And the likelihood that the problem will be solved is very high, since there are now enough specialists, and there are no problems with the equipment either. But we encourage you to first study this issue a little on your own, and then decide whether to apply or not. Is it possible that the problem is trivial and can be resolved on its own? In our article: “Ventilation in a private house: diagram and installation,” we will try to tell you everything we know about these issues. And we are going to do it in such a way that it is understandable to everyone, and not just to those who are not familiar with engineering.

When developing a project and building an individual home, it is necessary to construct many utility networks: electrical, water supply, sewerage and, of course, ventilation. The comfortable indoor microclimate largely depends on the latter. Therefore, the installation of ventilation ducts in a private house must be carried out in strict accordance with existing standards and the rules discussed below.

The need to install ventilation

Owners of their own cottages recently faced the problem of installing an effective room ventilation system. Previously, a small ventilation duct in a private house coped well with the tasks assigned to it. After all, the brick walls and wooden windows perfectly let in the air that was necessary for ventilation.

But in modern construction for the most part“non-breathable” materials are used:

• polymer windows that prevent the appearance of cracks and cracks;
• frame structures protected by polyethylene membranes;
• roofs equipped with steam and wind protection films.

All of the above building elements completely block natural air flow. Consequently - high humidity air, which leads to condensation on the glass, moisture on the walls and mold in the corners of the rooms.

Note!
Similar problems are faced by residents of old houses, who replaced their existing wooden windows with plastic ones with their own hands and did not take care of designing the supply ventilation ducts.

Ventilation network elements

Central exhaust duct

The instructions regulating the process of construction of individual dwellings state that duct ventilation for the house should be provided at the stage of drawing up project documentation. If for some reason this was not done, you can arrange an air intake and removal system in finished house. For this purpose, ready-made ventilation ducts are used.

Note!
The cost of installing ventilation in an already constructed building can be much higher than constructing this utility network directly during the construction of the house.
In the vast majority of cases, the mentioned method is used to equip an old, but thoroughly renovated house with supply and exhaust ducts.

By installing ventilation ducts, and possibly additional mechanical equipment (fans, heat exchangers, filters, etc.) you can avoid negative consequences described in the previous section.

Before starting the installation of central and peripheral air ducts, it is necessary to decide on the type of air exchange system:

• natural - in a modern private house it is not very effective, since it is sealed window systems prevent the flow of fresh air, and temperature changes during the cold season reduce the efficiency of traction;
• supply air - suitable for private houses with an area of ​​up to 300 square meters;
• supply and exhaust - the most effective system, which allows, in the presence of a recuperator, not only to ventilate all rooms, but also to create a comfortable temperature in them.

All of them, with the exception of small nuances, are designed according to the same principle, therefore the features of installing ventilation ducts for the supply system will be discussed in detail below.

Note!
In addition to ventilation of residential and auxiliary premises, sewer ventilation is also necessary in a private house.
For its manufacture, special types of air ducts are used.

Installation of mechanical ventilation

The system for the forced supply of fresh air and removal of contaminated air masses is designed according to the following principles:

1. Two ventilation ducts are installed on the roof of a private house (usually in the kitchen area), which will serve as the basis for the entire future system. One of them serves to suck in air, the other to remove it from the premises.
2. An electric fan equipped with an electronic on/off system is installed on the exhaust air duct. Operating modes are switched based on information received from external sensors that monitor humidity and temperature in the rooms.
3. The entrances of ventilation ducts indoors must be installed so that the incoming air enters the living spaces (bedroom, living room), passes through the corridor, kitchen and sanitary block, where he ended up in specially equipped hoods.

As a result of this organization of air flows, moisture and unpleasant odors generated in the kitchen are prevented from entering other rooms of the house.

Air supply system

As mentioned above, laying ventilation ducts in an already built house is very problematic. In this case, you will either have to punch holes in the walls, and this is impossible in some cases, or install air ducts open method, which will have an extremely negative impact on the interior.

The best option is to construct a system of air ducts in the attic, and arrange their outlets on the ceiling, masking unsightly openings with decorative grilles.

The material for arranging ventilation is ready-made plastic or metal-plastic ventilation ducts of a suitable cross-section.

They are:

• round;
• rectangular.

The latter type is preferable as it is easier to install on site.

In addition, you will need:

• grids;
• valve;
• connectors;
• gratings and so on.

To ensure that the installed ventilation ducts work with maximum efficiency, it is advisable to follow the following tips when installing them:

1. It is better to make two supply channels in each living room, which will allow pumping a larger volume of air.
2. The cross-section of the air ducts and the power of the fans must be calculated based on the area of ​​the premises.
3. Incoming air ducts should be present only in residential premises, while in auxiliary premises they should be installed exhaust system.

Outgoing air channels

The central channel, through which polluted air will be removed from the premises, is installed on the roof in the kitchen area. The fact is that, unlike supply air ducts, the exhaust system should be as short as possible. This will avoid the formation of condensation and other problems leading to disruptions in the functioning of the ventilation network.

Note!
This arrangement of the air removal pipe is also due to the fact that a stove is installed in the kitchen, which, as a rule, is a source of the largest number harmful impurities.

You should also know that the air removed from the premises is warmer than the air masses located outside. Therefore, it is imperative to take care of the insulation of the outlet channels, otherwise moisture will condense inside.

In addition to the central pipe, peripheral pipes are installed. Their entrances are mounted above the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

To increase the efficiency of exhaust ventilation, it is recommended to install a fan in the system. Hood over gas oven and the heating boiler pipe must enter the air channel after it (inserts are used for this).

Air ducts in the boiler room

One of the features of a private house is the presence of a boiler that heats the premises. Often it is installed in the kitchen, but sometimes a special room is allocated for it - a boiler room. It must also be equipped effective system removal of air contaminated with combustion products.

When manufacturing a boiler room ventilation system, the following rules should be followed:

1. The room is equipped with two ventilation ducts leading outside. One of them will serve to remove combustion products, the second will purify indoor air.
2. There is no need to install a fan in the duct intended for smoke removal. It will constantly fail.
3. The gas mixture that is discharged through the ventilation duct is much hotter than the surrounding air. Therefore, moisture can constantly form on the pipe walls, which negatively affects the operation of the boiler. To avoid this, the pipe must be insulated with mineral mats.
4. A ventilation duct designed to ventilate a room, on the contrary, should be equipped with a fan that can rotate in both directions. This will increase the volume of incoming and outgoing air.

Ventilation for fireplace and stove

If a fireplace or solid fuel stove is installed in any of the living rooms, additional measures should be taken to ensure the supply of clean air to this room and the removal of combustion products.

This will allow you to create the most favorable conditions for complete combustion of wood or coal, because, as you know, flames cannot exist without oxygen.

In addition, if work is ineffective ventilation system and lack of oxygen, it is released during combustion carbon monoxide and others dangerous products, which, when accumulated indoors, can cause harm to health and even lead to death.

Many people do not install separate air ducts into the room, preferring to open the window. But in this case, you will be faced with inefficient use of heat, because most of it will evaporate during slot or burst ventilation.

Installation of air ducts on the roof

The most problems arise when arranging the outlets of ventilation ducts through the roof covering.

In order not to make unnecessary holes in the tiles or slates and to avoid rainwater getting into the attic, when installing air pipes, you must adhere to the following tips:

1. Before constructing a ventilation network, it is advisable to draw up a plan indicating the locations of all air ducts, including their exit points through the roof.
2. To arrange the ventilation ducts in question, it is necessary to use special parts. As a last resort - a stainless steel pipe with insulation.
3. Before installing the central duct, it is advisable to make all the necessary holes in it in advance, which will simplify further work on assembling the entire ventilation system.
4. Places where the pipe is adjacent to certain structural elements should be sealed. Any silicone compound or cement mortar will do.

Advice!
After processing the joints, it is necessary to suspend ventilation installation work until complete.
The central air channels must be strictly vertical, otherwise there is a danger of moisture forming on the inner surface of the pipes.

Disadvantages of forced ventilation

Despite obvious advantages, mechanical ventilation It also has some disadvantages that you should be aware of:

1. filtering air quickly becomes clogged with dust, which requires constant maintenance.
2. Electrical equipment (fans, heat exchangers) consumes electricity, increasing utility costs.

Advice!
If technical specifications allow, it is advisable to focus on the design of natural ventilation, the performance of which is sufficient in most cases.

Conclusion

The correct selection and installation of ventilation ducts in a private house is the key to effective and uninterrupted operation ventilation system. You can learn more about the arrangement of ventilation systems from the video in this article.