Water supply at the dacha under. Year-round water supply

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Let us dwell in detail on a country water supply system made by ourselves, which can operate uninterruptedly both in winter and in summer. Before installing a water supply, you need to select a source drinking water. The simplest and cheap way fresh water supply - construction of a conventional well.

The depth of the well depends on how deep groundwater lie in this area.

But the well mainly supplies water in small volumes - 100-200 liters per hour, and well water can have various impurities: heavy metals, nitrates, bacteria.

It is best suited, or with the help of specialists, to a depth of up to 30-40 meters. From such a well you can pump out about 1.5 m 3 of water per hour, which for a small country house and the area is quite enough.

A sand well is drilled using an auger method, that is, the rock is brought to the surface. Drilling a well can take 3-7 days and will require the installation of special filtration equipment to filter the water. The life of a well can be fifty years or more.

Term winter water supply does not mean that its use is limited only to winter. This means that the water supply is intended for constant off-season operation, and its operation is permitted in both winter and summer.

To get water from a well, . Do-it-yourself installation of a winter water supply system in a dacha involves connecting the pump to a constant power source, so it is possible to combine the laying of cables and water pipes in one casing. Typically, plastic sewer pipes are used for this.

Pipes protect communications from mechanical damage and from freezing.

For installation, you can connect plastic pipes using soldering or plastic fittings. A special electric soldering iron is used to solder pipes. You don’t have to buy such a soldering iron, but rent it.

Connections on fittings do not require any special tools except for wrenches. For winter water supply, you can use plastic pipes Ø20 mm or Ø25 mm.

Pipe fittings

To install a water supply system with your own hands, you can use or. Installation of the water supply system should be carried out at a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in the area. The simplest solution to avoid determining the freezing depth:

1. A plastic pipe, which is laid to a depth of 60 centimeters, is covered with a layer of insulation made from foam chips, coal slag or expanded clay 20-30 cm thick. The main condition for backfilling is that the insulation must absorb moisture poorly and be strong enough not to compact under soil pressure.
2. The water supply system is insulated with special thermal insulation and a corrugated polyethylene casing. Using such an insulation system, the trench can be made no more than 30 cm deep.
3. , which will allow pipes to be laid directly on the ground. But this method is too financially expensive.

The trench for the water supply should approach the house at an angle of 90°, since digging up the foundation should not cause it to shrink.

To connect the pump, a pit at least a meter deep is made near the well. The dimensions of the pit are 70x70 cm. The walls need to be strengthened - lined with bricks or boards soaked in antiseptic. The bottom of the pit is filled with concrete or covered with crushed stone.

A water pipe with a latch for fastening the hose and electrical cable. The pit is needed in order to quickly and conveniently disconnect the pump in case of repair. The pit needs to be insulated so that the water in the hose does not freeze in winter.

The pump is connected via a waterproof socket. You can also use a sealed contact connector.

Water taps

If you plan to use the water supply in a greenhouse, then you can install cast iron or bronze valves and taps with axle boxes. It is not recommended to use ball valves, as they quickly fail under conditions of prolonged non-use.

The water distribution unit is the most complex device in the water supply system. It is placed in unheated room or even on the street. Increased demands are placed on it due to harsh operating conditions in winter.

You can also use a standpipe, but it has two significant shortcomings- complex installation and high cost of the device.

Simple scheme

The lower part of the water supply is equipped with a drain hole of small diameter - about 1 mm. If the tap is closed, then the water slowly flows through this small hole into the pit, so it does not freeze in winter.

If the tap is open, then small portion water also flows into the pit and is absorbed into the ground, but due to the small diameter of the hole, the entire flow of water enters the water supply system and passes to the water tap.

Such a simplified do-it-yourself water supply scheme for a dacha is not without several drawbacks. The main ones are:

• constant humidity in the pit
• slight loss of water.

But its simplicity and reliability made this design very popular in summer cottages and gardens.

Installation tools

To install a winter or summer water supply, you will need the following tools:

1. Pipe cutter.
2. Adjustable wrench, gas wrench and spanners No. 17, 19, 22 and 24.
3. Sanding paper.
4. Knife, pencil, tape measure.

To tighten the fittings, you can use either a suitable wrench, or gas key No. 2.

To dig a shallow trench, a shovel and a crowbar are enough. But first of all, it is necessary to mark the water supply route on the site, take all measurements and calculate the number of taps, valves and fittings.

Do-it-yourself summer plumbing

The summer water supply at the dacha is used for watering plants, organizing a summer shower, and other household needs. In winter, such a water supply system cannot be used.

It can be made permanent or removable.

How is a summer water supply system designed that will only be used in the summer?

The most common design is pipes or hoses that are laid directly on the ground. Arrange one simple plumbing can be made from silicone or rubber hoses, which are connected by adapters.

Adapters can be purchased, or they can be made from plastic or metal pipes. In summer water supply, you can also use latches that have “ruffs” for putting on the hose on one side and a connector on the other. The latches connect in one motion and provide a secure connection.

It is better to buy a rubber hose with thick walls reinforced with nylon threads. Plastic water pipe at the dacha it is very cheap, but rubber hoses will last longer.

To lay a permanent summer water supply at your dacha with your own hands, the pipes are laid in the ground, and only water points with taps are brought to the surface. This is done for ease of movement around the site.

The main disadvantage is that you need to maintain a slope to the connection point. A drain valve is installed at the lowest point of the water supply system so that the water can be drained in the fall, otherwise frozen water will simply burst the pipes.

Watch two videos about laying pipes and connecting a pumping station.

The problem of water supply to a summer cottage worries many summer residents, because without watering you can’t even dream of any harvest. Carrying water from the nearest pond or well is simply physically impossible. The most effective way out of this situation is to install a summer water supply at the dacha from polypropylene pipes. Of course, this will require certain investments and physical effort, but the result is the ability to water the site in a very short time.

And since there is water in the well or well that is quite suitable for drinking, in addition, you will provide yourself and drinking water. Consequently, summer water supply at the dacha can significantly make life easier for the owners of the site, create conditions for more rational use land and even for comfortable living in the country.

Before you build a summer water supply system at your dacha with your own hands, you need to decide on its location. The water pipeline can be collapsible, laid on the surface of the soil, or permanent, located underground.

Collapsible

The advantage of the summer collapsible option is that it:

• very quickly laid and easily connected to various water sources;
• all its leaks become immediately noticeable;
• Maintenance is kept to a minimum.

However, such a design It is recommended to disassemble and remove from the site before the onset of cold weather.. If this is not done, there is a high probability of theft water pipes in the winter season. This forces all connections to be made collapsible. Also, pipes located next to the beds will be constantly at risk of damage.

Note: For collapsible surface water supply, rubber or silicone hoses are often used.

Constant

Such a system is being laid forever. You can use the installed water supply both in summer and winter. But, if you plan to use it in winter, you will have to bury the pipes to a sufficiently large depth, below the soil freezing level, or carry out additional insulation if their laying depth is insufficient for some reason. Since we are talking about how to make a summer water supply at the dacha with your own hands, we will consider just such a possibility of a permanent water supply.

The system is laid shallowly in areas of lawns, between trees. A depth of 25-30 cm will be sufficient. Where the pipe will pass under the beds, it should be laid much deeper to avoid damage when digging. To do this, the pipes are buried 40-45 cm or even more. Don't worry about pipes breaking in winter. In the fall, when there is no longer a need for irrigation, the water is drained from the pipes (to do this, they are laid with a slight slope or blown through with a compressor). In this condition, the pipelines are not afraid of frost.

The photo shows an example of the location of water pipes plastic pipes in shallow trenches

Advantages of a permanent pipeline:

• a closed summer water supply system in a dacha made of polypropylene pipes does not need to be disassembled and reassembled;
• can be used in winter at appropriate laying depth;
• no one will steal the pipes.

Among the disadvantages, we can note the need to drain water from the pipes in the fall. To do this, you need to install a drain valve located at the lowest point of the system. Labor costs for excavation work will also increase. And in case of damage, a considerable amount of excavation work will have to be performed to eliminate the defect.

Types of pipes for irrigation

Depending on which version of the water pipeline you decide to make, the pipeline material is selected.

For laying external summer water supply you can use the following types pipes:

• metal-plastic;
• polypropylene;
• flexible hoses.

All of the listed materials, with the exception of polypropylene pipelines, are easily joined into a single structure, and then just as easily disassembled and transported for storage. Connections are made using either special adapters made of plastic or galvanized steel.

Advice: If you decide to lay a surface water pipeline from polypropylene pipes at your dacha, then try to disguise it for the winter, since it will be impossible to disassemble such a pipeline.

What to make a summer water supply from at a permanent dacha:

• Metal. Despite their reliability and durability, such pipes are gradually losing their relevance. This is due to the fact that the walls of the pipes gradually corrode, the quality of the water decreases, and the pipes leak after 5-7 years of being in the ground;
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Rigid pipes that must be connected to each other for irrigation using special glue. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting their intolerance to low temperatures, which requires compliance certain rules when laying them;
• Polyethylene pipes. They are relatively inexpensive and quite durable;
• . The material is extremely durable, does not rot in the soil and does not corrode. To install it, a soldering iron is used, which allows you to make very reliable connections. Polypropylene is relatively cheap, as is working with it.

It is polypropylene pipes that are the most preferable option when making a water supply system for irrigation in a country house with your own hands closed type. For irrigation, pipes with a diameter of 20-25 mm are usually used, although a larger diameter can be used. A larger pipe diameter is especially relevant in the presence of a centralized water main, where there may not be high pressure.

Organization of watering on the site

It is very important to determine the source of water on the site. It would be good if a central water supply line was laid along the street. You can simply connect to it after receiving the appropriate permission. If there is no water pipeline, then there are only two options left:

1. Summer. To do this, you will need to dig a well on the site, strengthen it and ensure it is filled with water. A submersible or surface pump is used to supply water to the pipes. The same principle is used to supply water from a well. The disadvantage of this approach is low temperature water, which plants don’t like.

2. Water supply for irrigation from the reservoir. Water is collected into a reservoir located on the site, where it reaches a temperature suitable for irrigation, and from there it is supplied to the installed polypropylene water supply.

Installation of polypropylene water supply

Before starting work on laying pipelines, a diagram of the summer water supply system at the dacha is drawn up. It should take into account the location of shrubs, trees, beds, and flower beds. This is especially important to do when installing a permanent water supply system, since changing the location of the pipes will then be very problematic. The diagram should indicate all the outlet points of the taps and the location of the lowest point with the drain valve.

Installation of a summer water supply system at a collapsible dacha

Laying a surface pipeline is not difficult. The pipes are laid out directly on the ground, in those places where water needs to be supplied. The pipelines are connected to each other.

Installation of a summer water supply system at a dacha underground

If a universal polypropylene pipeline is being laid, which will also be used in winter, then fairly deep trenches are dug. The pipes in them will not freeze in winter. If we are talking only about summer operation of the water supply system, then the depth of the pipes can be much less. 10-30 cm is enough for the normal functioning of the water pipeline.

All trenches must have a slope that allows water to flow by gravity through the pipes. This will make it easier to drain the water through the drain valve at the end of the watering season. Pipes passing under flower beds and beds are laid deeper. In this case, the lowest point of the system should be even lower than this level.

Polypropylene pipes are joined together using fittings and a special soldering iron. To bring the pipe to the surface, tees with shut-off taps or valves are used.

Tip: Before filling the trenches with soil, it is recommended to check the tightness of the water supply by running water through the pipes.

The trenches are buried with earth, after which the water supply can be used.

Nothing complicated in making summer country water supply No. If everything is done carefully, such a water supply system will serve its owners well for decades.

Avid summer residents and supporters of summer country life are well aware of the problems associated with the lack of water supply. But water is constantly needed by plants for watering, animals, and owners for hygienic and culinary purposes. How you want to just open the tap and get it in the required volume, even in country conditions. Do you agree?

We offer a thorough analysis of methods, valuable recommendations on the choice of source, laying of above-ground and underground pipelines. The basis for the information presented is regulatory documentation and advice from experienced specialists. The information is supported by a selection of photos and videos.

Dacha system In practice, watering turns out to be a vague and uncertain concept. For some it’s a couple of galvanized buckets and several hours a day spent on difficult “walks” to the well and back, for others it’s a long flexible hose, constantly clinging and bending, for others - a complex system of pipes leading from a well or pond to all corners garden plot.

We will consider the most optimal options that eliminate large amounts of water when watering. physical exercise and reducing financial costs during their construction to a minimum.

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Of course, a seasonal water supply system may also have additional functions, for example, supplying water to a garage to wash a car, or providing an outdoor shower. However, they are only possible when a competent project has been drawn up and there are no complaints about the installation of a summer water supply system, otherwise, instead of convenient functionality, you will get many reasons for repairs.

Do not forget that the summer modification differs from the winter version in some aspects of installation and maintenance:

• for laying pipes, deep trenches are not needed, but grooves up to 0.7-0.8 m deep are sufficient;
• during the warm period there is no need to insulate the pipeline;
• for permanent systems, you need to consider a drainage system (for collapsible communications, drainage occurs spontaneously during dismantling);
• temporary collapsible pipelines are connected in series, more serious, stationary pipelines are connected using a manifold.

The difference also concerns the choice of pumping equipment. For example, to supply water to a garden from a well throughout the summer, a submersible or surface pump is sufficient. A permanent system operating year-round requires a powerful pumping station equipped with a water heater and storage tank.

The main purpose of the external branch of the summer water supply is to water lawns, flower beds, beds, shrubs and trees; it functions temporarily and is used exclusively for summer period(for some regions from early spring to late autumn)

The choice of irrigation system largely depends on the duration of the warm period. Suppose, for the harsh north, where summer lasts 3 or even 2 months, a collapsible scheme is quite enough.

And for the southern regions, where planting begins already in early spring, it is better to build a good, strong, reliable stationary water supply system.

One of the options for supplying water to a garden plot is the Al-ko Jet 3000 surface pump (capacity - 3100 l/h, power - 650 W). Suitable for pumping clean water from a well or well

Selecting a water source

The productivity, length of the structure and other operational capabilities of the irrigation system largely depend on the water source to which it will be connected.

Here is the list possible options for watering:

• (relevant both for new, recently developed sites, and for old, long-term properties);
• a natural body of water (for example, a pond originally located on the territory of a garden plot);
• centralized pipeline (necessary for water supply of modern cottage settlements).

An excellent addition to stockpiling would be storage tank for, the filling of which depends on the vagaries of the weather, and a VOC storage well, in which purified wastewater separated from insoluble sludge is accumulated.

Most often, in addition to the main source, there is a backup, for example, a large plastic tank located at a height of 1-1.5 m. If the power is suddenly turned off and the pump operation stops, watering is carried out from the tank.

The old metal barrels have been replaced by comfortable ones. plastic containers designed to collect rainwater from the roof. The built-in faucet and connected pump make the watering process more comfortable

Storage containers come in different types: metal and plastic, large and small, purchased and homemade. If the area is small and the reservoir is large, there is enough liquid for several waterings.

A pipeline operating in the summer can be connected to any of the listed sources, but with minor reservations. Let's assume to work with plastic container A collapsible design is suitable, but for connection to a well it is better to build a permanent system.

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Types of water pipes for irrigation

Before drawing up a project for a summer water supply for irrigation, you should find out which scheme is more suitable: collapsible or stationary. The two indicated systems have the same purpose, but differ in the nuances of installation/dismantling (collapsible) and design features.

Collapsible diagram: pros and cons

Main distinguishing feature collapsible design– the need for annual installation and dismantling. In the spring, the parts must be assembled, in the fall - disassembled, then all pipes, tubes, hoses and fittings must be cleaned, washed, dried and placed in a dry room.

The assembly is made of plastic pipes connected by fittings, flexible hoses and tips for easy watering; pressure adjustment is carried out using taps

Temporary collapsible water supply system is assembled and disassembled according to the principle children's construction set: it is necessary to take parts that are suitable in size and connect them into a structure that ensures the movement of water from the source to the irrigation site.

Ease of installation and low cost made the system popular: many ready-made proposals from various manufacturers.

Elements of the watering system are most often sold separately, but the sales consultant can finished project select the necessary parts - from pipes and fittings to the pump. There are also full-fledged kits designed for drip irrigation, a technology that is quite new, but already has regular fans.

Installation of a drip irrigation system in a greenhouse: the source of water is a storage metal container (barrel) installed at a height of 1 m; as needed, flexible hoses are connected via a tap

Drip irrigation occurs thanks to the controlled supply of water through flexible hoses with small holes located near the root system of plants. The advantage is the dosed supply and saving of water, in which the plants receive the required amount of moisture.

The advantages of any collapsible type are:

• quick installation and dismantling;
• assembly that does not require special knowledge;
• operational repairs;
• budget cost.

There is also a drawback - the need for assembly/disassembly. Many people do not like having hoses on the surface. They interfere with movement and spoil appearance plot, but if you think about a neat, camouflaged arrangement of flexible hoses (along paths, along the edges of lawns or beds), the problem will be solved.

With assembly specifics independent system from HDPE pipes will introduce a photo selection:

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Setting up a permanent system

To install a permanent summer water supply, trenches are dug, in this way it resembles communications that operate throughout the year.

Unlike the winter system, the summer modification pipes are not tied to the freezing level and therefore are located at a shallow depth - about half a meter, maximum 0.8 m. The depth depends on the installation location: the more “actively” the area of ​​land above the pipes is used, the deeper they are are lying.

Structural elements consist of plastic, metal-plastic, rubber or silicone; regardless of the material of the pipe wall and connecting elements must be thick and strong enough to withstand water and soil pressure

A mandatory part is a drain valve, which is necessary for the procedure for draining water at the end of the season. It is installed at a convenient point in a pipeline laid at an angle so that water can flow out on its own. The procedure is carried out before the onset of cold weather, without waiting for negative temperatures, otherwise the water will freeze right in the pipes and damage them.

In addition to the pipeline located underground, water taps located outside are required. They are installed at points located in close proximity to irrigation zones - in the vegetable garden, in the garden, near flower beds and lawns, as well as near the garage.

Flexible hoses with convenient sprinkler attachments are attached to the taps for more efficient irrigation or spraying of plants.

Installation of a water tap on a vertically located plastic pipe embedded in an underground main - a design suitable for plantings on open ground, and for the greenhouse

Pros of permanent water supply:

• communications do not interfere with the movement of people and transport;
• the pipes are protected by a layer of soil from damage caused by external influences;
• there is no need to install in the spring, and dismantle at the end of the season;
• Preparation for conservation is simple - draining the water from the pipes.

The disadvantages are the higher cost and additional excavation work. If depressurization occurs, it is impossible to quickly determine the emergency area.

Assembling a system from rigid polymer pipes has its own characteristics:

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Brief overview of materials and necessary devices

The summer water supply system consists of the following elements:

• pipes;
• taps;
• fitting;
• pump equipment;
• filters.

For comparison, when building a winter one, pressure regulation devices (pressure gauge, pressure gauge), automatic protection, and a water heater are required.

There are many options automated systems, allowing you to regulate and control drip or greenhouse irrigation.

Instructions for assembling a temporary water supply system

To install a seasonal “temporary structure” you will need a set of pipes and fittings of suitable diameter and a pump for forced water supply. To correctly calculate the quantity Supplies, draw up a drawing in the form of a sketch, on which you need to indicate the length of all highways and connection points.

Drip irrigation scheme providing irrigation of the greenhouse, open ground beds and garden plants. The object for storing water is a storage tank installed on supports, so using a pump is possible, but not necessary

To set up drip irrigation, it is enough to purchase ready set supplied with instructions.

To assemble according to your own diagram, proceed according to the following plan:

• lay out the pipes according to the drawing, determine the locations of water points;
• if there are enough elements, connect them with fittings;
• attach additional parts (watering nozzles);
• connect the system to a pre-installed pump;
• test the operation of the water supply.

With the pump turned on, check the pressure at all points and the tightness of the communications. To prevent hoses and pipes from getting tangled under your feet, try to think through the layout so that they do not cross areas of active traffic and the road for vehicle traffic.

If you constantly use surface water supply, use different ideas for ease of installation. For example, during construction garden path lay transverse pipes with a diameter of 50-100 mm under its base in several places. For the winter they can be closed with plugs, and in the summer they will serve as a kind of tunnels for installing water pipes and hoses.

Or you can read more about choosing flexible hoses for irrigation.

Installation of a stationary system with a pump

The main part of the permanent irrigation water supply system is placed in the ground, so the selection of parts and installation must be carried out with special care. We offer a universal scheme for laying highways, suitable for simple and branched networks.

#1. Drawing up a project taking into account the features of the landscape

Planning, taking into account all the nuances of subsequent assembly, is half the success, so even before purchasing necessary materials draw up a diagram indicating important objects (water source, watering points, all buildings, paths, beds and plantings).

Approximate diagram of a summer water supply system: 1 – storage tanks for rainwater; 2 – storage tank in the garden; 3 – raised tank for drip irrigation in a greenhouse; I – II – nodes for inserting into the main highway

Consider how best to position the trenches relative to paths, buildings, and watering areas. Count on a shallow depth - 0.3-0.4 m, but for potentially dangerous places it needs to be increased to 0.7-0.8 m.

Don’t forget about installing a drain valve - it is traditionally installed next to the water intake, so the pipes should also be tilted towards the source.

The more water points there are, the less often you will have to move the flexible hose. Mentally divide your garden (flower garden, lawn, garden) into small zones and plan to install hydrants with a device for attaching a hose or sprinkler.

An approximate list of materials and tools that will be required to assemble the irrigation system:

• pipes with a set of tees, elbows and fittings;
• flexible hoses;
• cutter and soldering iron for plastic pipes (metal hacksaw for metal ones);
• ball valve ½;
• pump for installation in a well.

The availability of various parts and their quantity depends on the requirements of a particular project.

#2. Excavation work - installation of trenches

To dig a shallow trench, the only tool you need is a shovel. Buckets or a wheelbarrow are not needed to remove soil, as it is needed for backfilling.

The labor intensity of the event depends entirely on the quality and composition of the soil and vegetation layer. Soil with a high content of sand, even with numerous plant roots, is easy to dig; removing soil containing clay components is much more difficult.

Excavation work on summer cottage: preparation of trenches for installation of water pipes. Each turn of the trench - plus one compression angle for connecting pipe sections

Along the route of laying communications, there may be buildings that will have to be walked around the perimeter (for example, a barn or a swimming pool). Small country houses can be overcome by slightly deepening the trench. Let's assume that communications laid under a flowerbed at a depth of 0.7 m will not interfere with digging and caring for plants.

It should be remembered that each turn of the pipeline will reduce the efficiency of the system and increase the load on the pumping equipment. Therefore, when developing a scheme for laying a pipeline system, it is necessary, if possible, to choose paths with a minimum number of turns, or better yet, with no turns at all.

#3. Pipeline Assembly Options

Previously, when metal pipes were used, you had to deal with steel parts, which were more labor-intensive to cut and assemble. Nowadays they use plastic pipes, which are connected to each other in two ways - welding or fittings.

The first technology is a little more complicated, but the result is more reliable. Before welding, it is necessary to prepare polypropylene pipes - cut into fragments of the required length. A pipe with a diameter of 20-25 mm is suitable for the central main, and 10-20 mm for branches, so cutting can be done with scissors or a roller cutter.

For welding you will need a special welding machine - and a compact control unit. As a result of heating, the pipes are soldered to the fittings, forming a monolithic sealed structure.

The process of connecting a polypropylene pipe and a connecting angle by welding. For reliability, it is necessary to withstand all stages: heating to the desired temperature, fixing and cooling

Before the beginning welding work Read the instructions carefully and remember the rules for using the welding machine. For example, pipes cannot be cooled cold water or compressed air.

Having assembled a structure from pipes, there is no need to backfill - first, connect to the pumping equipment and check the operation.

#4. Pump connection and testing

As a rule, at the time of construction of the irrigation system, the pump is already installed. If not, then you need to choose a model suitable for a specific source (for example, a well) and install it according to the instructions.

A submersible pump is lowered into the water and fixed at some distance from the bottom, a surface pump is installed next to the well, covering it with a protective casing.

Watering “directly”: a flexible hose with a watering can attachment is connected to a submersible pump that pumps water from the well. The scheme is also relevant for a pond or storage tank

The crucial moment is testing. After connecting all the elements in unified system turn on the pump and check the water supply for leaks. Pay attention to the quality of watering - is there enough pressure at the most remote points. If everything is satisfactory, you can backfill, lightly compact the soil, and start using the summer system.

Maintenance mainly concerns the operation of the pump. The pipeline only requires preparation for winter storage. To do this, you need to open the tap and drain the water.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To understand what a summer irrigation system looks like and learn more about its installation, use useful and informative videos.

Option for arranging a country water supply with a connection to a well:

Many people are attracted by the idea of ​​making water supply in their dacha with their own hands. There are many advantages to this option for solving the water supply problem - from economic benefits to the ability not to depend on the water supply schedule, reducing pressure characteristics during peak hours. In addition, it is possible to calculate and build a system that fully corresponds to the layout of the site and takes into account the number and location of consumption points.

Solving the question “how to install water supply in a dacha with your own hands” begins with determining the type of source. That is, it is necessary to decide where the water will come from. The simplest option is to build a line from a centralized main, equipping it with a pressure tank for uninterrupted supply and pressure stability, however, such a solution is not always possible - there may be no common line at all. Your own source allows you to create a completely autonomous system.

Well

A traditional option that serves many people well in rural areas and is suitable for use in dacha areas.

The advantages of choosing a well speak for themselves:

• Construction and operation do not require obtaining permits, registration or any other activities associated with additional hassle.
• Water from a well can be obtained either using a pumping unit or manually, which is important for those areas where the power supply is often cut off. In addition, this possibility increases safety - if there is a fire in the area, you will be able to get water and extinguish the fire, even if the wiring is damaged.
• Building a well is not too difficult; you can do it yourself, even without special skills. It is enough to carefully study the recommendations of specialists.
• If ready-made heavy ones are not used building blocks(for example, concrete rings), you can do without using special equipment.
• Even using the services of specialists for construction, the price of the work will be lower compared to drilling other water sources.

Disadvantages of the well:

• High probability of organic contaminants getting into the water (this can be reduced by equipping the well with a tightly closing lid),
• The need to periodically clean and sanitize the mine (during seasonal use, this will have to be done more often, since water stagnates in an unused well),
• It is possible to draw water from upper layers where contamination from the soil surface (toxic waste from enterprises, chemical fertilizers, man-made dust, etc.) can get in.
• Relatively low productivity (about 200 liters per hour).

It should also be noted that constructing a well is only possible if the aquifer lies at a depth of less than 15 m.

Well on sand

When deciding how to make water supply in a country house using a sand well, there is also no need to worry about paperwork. The advantages of a sand well are similar to the features of the construction and operation of a traditional well.

• You can use the services of a specialized company or try to do the work yourself. If the aquifer is shallow, you can do without complex equipment.
• Water from a sandy aquifer has a high content of insoluble impurities - sand or clay, so the water supply system will require a reliable filter system.

Distinctive features:

• lower (compared to a conventional well) probability of organic matter getting into the water (water is generally collected at a depth of 15-30 meters),
• short service life (about 8 years),
• depending on geological features, sometimes it is more expedient to install a new well (or move equipment) without much effort than to clean out the source,
• a sand well can produce an average of 1.5 cubic meters of water per hour.

Artesian well

In this case, you will be able to install water supply at your dacha from a well only after the drillers have completed their work. Drilling is permitted only by professionals from specialized companies that have permission to carry out this type of activity. After drilling, flushing and putting the source into operation, the company will issue a package of documents for the artesian well, and before drilling you must obtain permission.

Advantages:

• water intake from deep aquifers, where pollution from the surface does not reach (more than 50 meters),
• high productivity (sometimes it is economically feasible to install one artesian well in several areas).

Flaws:

• the need for serious material investments,
• high salt content in water.

The photo shows the location of aquifers and water intake options

Important: Installation of a filtration system will be required when choosing any type of source. The performance and completeness of the filters are selected based on the composition of the water, which must be determined in a specialized laboratory. The choice of filters is also influenced by how the water will be used - sometimes in addition to purification common line To protect pipes, plumbing and household units, additional filters are installed on the kitchen line.

Pump equipment

Do-it-yourself installation of a water supply system in a dacha involves selecting and installing pumping equipment. At this stage it is important to take into account the nuances different types systems

• Both submersible and surface pumps are suitable for wells. When choosing, it is important to remember that they can have a destructive effect on the walls of the structure and contribute to “turbidity” of the water (oscillations lift silt from the bottom, separating it from the walls of the mine). To reduce this risk, it is important to strictly follow the manufacturer's installation recommendations. In particular, it is usually limited minimum distance from the lowest point of the unit to the bottom.
• Artesian wells are very deep, so to equip them you will need a special deep pump.
• For sand wells, submersible pumps are also usually used, although in certain cases It is also possible to use surface ones.

Units for lifting and transporting water are selected not only by design, but also by technical specifications. Pressure and productivity are taken into account. When calculating the required value, not only the depth of the source is taken into account, but also its distance from the house, the height difference (in case of complex terrain of the site or when installing a water consumption point on the second floor of the house).

When designing a water supply system at your dacha, keep in mind that in some cases single pumping machines are more effective. They represent a whole complex of equipment: in addition to the surface pumping unit, it includes control devices, a pressure switch and a hydraulic accumulator, which optimizes the operation of the pump and ensures stability (consistency of supply and normal pressure) of water supply.

At the same time, the pumping station creates more noise than, for example, a submersible pump. It requires placement in a caisson, basement or in a separate heated room to avoid freezing. In addition, there are some restrictions for the installation of such equipment - the distance from the pump to the water surface should not be more than 8 m.

Types of pipes

Since the industry offers a large selection of water pipes, you should understand the features of each type in order to make the right choice.
The characteristics of plastic pipes often cause difficulties and confusion. This is due to insufficient precision of formulations. Any product made from polymers can be called plastic, but the capabilities and operating features of different types differ significantly.

• Polypropylene very popular for internal wiring, has a low price and can withstand high pressure and temperature. Installation of pipes made of this material is carried out by soldering using a special soldering iron, which creates reliable, permanent connections.
• U polyethylene pressure limits and maximum temperature lower than that of polypropylene. But temperature characteristics are not so important when using pipes for cold water supply, and the ability to withstand pressure plays a role when installing extensive systems that include water supply lines to fountains, sinks and other consumers that require high pressure. The advantage of polyethylene is its resistance to negative temperatures and ease of installation using fittings. Therefore, HDPE pipes are most often used to supply water from a source to a house.
• Cross-linked polyethylene technical characteristics are almost identical to polypropylene. Its peculiarity is the impossibility of connecting elements by welding. How to make water supply in a country house from a well or a well in this case? For this purpose, special compression fittings are used.
• Metal-plastic similar to cross-linked polyethylene and has a similar layered structure, however, among its layers there is also a reinforcing structure aluminium foil. Metal-plastic pipes are also not welded, and their advantage is flexibility, which allows pipes to be bent, thereby reducing the number of joints, resistance to impact high temperature and pressure. They are suitable for cold water supply, hot water supply and even heating.

Advantages of all plastic pipes:

• light weight,
• long service life,
• smooth surface (salts are not deposited),
• corrosion resistance,
• immunity to chemical influences.

Metal pipes are used less and less for pipeline installation, however, they are recommended to be used if the line has to be laid under a road (for example, under a car entrance). The main disadvantages of metal pipes are their heavy weight, lack of corrosion resistance and difficult installation.

Wiring in the house

If there are several water intake points in the house, the question arises about choosing a wiring diagram.

Scheme of water supply in a country house from a well, a well or a central line can be serial or collector.

Installation sequence

To organize the installation of a water supply system in a dacha from a well or well, according to a preliminary sketch, they mark out the laying of communications in the area. After this, proceed as follows.

Features of the winter pipeline

It is usually believed that the summer water supply system differs from the winter one in the depth of the pipes. At the same time, seasonally used communications must be able to drain before the onset of cold weather. In small areas, ground installation is often resorted to using hoses and portable pumps. In this case, the entire water supply system can be easily and quickly dismantled and stored at the end of summer.

It is somewhat more difficult to organize winter water supply at your dacha yourself, but it is quite possible. It is important to eliminate the possibility of freezing of the system (communications and pumping equipment). Winter water supply at the dacha from central water supply or autonomous water sources - these are maintaining pipe laying depth(below the soil freezing level) or their reliable thermal insulation. To be on the safe side, you can combine these precautions.

For autonomous systems will also need provide protection for pumping equipment. Submersible models are not at risk of freezing - they are protected by a layer of water. Surface units are installed in pits or caissons, as well as in special small heated rooms.

When installing winter systems, you can use various ways pipe insulation:

• foam chips poured into the trench,
• crushed slag,
• expanded clay,
• foamed polyethylene,
• sheet thermal insulation with additional corrugated casing for pipes.

You can install winter water supply at your dacha from a well or borehole with a heating cable - this is the most effective solution, but it requires energy costs.

The photo shows a diagram of a water supply system from a well, which can be used both in summer and winter.

Water heating

Water is heated using electric heaters and gas boilers. The latter are cheaper to operate, but require gas, documentation and professional installation. Electric models simpler and more compact. You can easily install them yourself. According to the principle of operation, heaters are divided into: The type of unit and its performance are selected based on the volume of water consumption.

For permanent residence You may consider installing a double-circuit gas boiler, which provides both home heating and hot water supply.

Video

The features of laying the external part of the water supply system are described in the video.

We told you how to organize a constantly renewed source of water for irrigation on your site. In this article we will look at issues related to organizing the delivery of water from the source to the beds.

Work in the garden, contrary to popular belief, can be quite a joy, the main thing is to organize everything correctly. There are many devices, techniques and tricks that can make it much easier gardening work. In the article “Automatic garden watering system: storage tank with water level control,” we talked about how to organize a constant source of water for irrigation at the dacha. Just its presence alone - good help to facilitate irrigation work. The next step, designed to further simplify the life of the summer resident, will be the arrangement of a summer water supply on the site. We will tell you how and from what you can and should make summer water supply.

General recommendations on materials and components for summer water supply

Before considering what materials it makes sense to assemble a system of distribution pipes from, let us dwell on one more element, without which summer water supply is impossible - shut-off valves, or simply taps. They are installed on pipes at the beginning, directly after the source, and at the end. At the beginning they are necessary to completely shut off the water in the water supply system, at the end they serve to temporarily shut off and regulate the pressure. No matter what material you install the taps from: cast iron, brass, polypropylene, there is one caveat - they should only be valve-type. This is due to the fact that, as you know, water must be drained from the summer water supply for the winter, otherwise, freezing and expanding, it will simply burst the pipes. So, no matter how you get rid of residual moisture, the microlayer of water in ball valve between the ball and the saddle in which it is located will still remain. It will do its dirty work, and in the spring you will find a torn body of your faucet. Valve taps simply do not have such a microlayer, therefore, they are spared this problem.

Let's return to the pipes. What, in principle, is water supply made of?

Steel pipes

The most famous material. The entire system is mounted on threaded connections or by welding.

Pros: strength and durability.

Minuses: high price, installation complexity, fragility and difficulty of access - you will have to specially go to a metal depot to get such pipes.

Conclusion: good material for summer plumbing if you have the plumbing or welding skills to install them.

Metal-plastic pipes

Typically sold in coils white. They are assembled using special metal fittings.

Pros: availability - they are sold in any plumbing store, easy to install.

Minuses: fragility - when used outdoors, such pipes last no more than three years, quite a high price.

Conclusion: a good temporary option, as a possible partial replacement for a failed permanent water supply system.

Polypropylene pipes

Plastic pipes are gray or white, quite elastic. They are assembled by welding with a special soldering iron. It can be purchased or rented at almost any plumbing store.

Pros: strength, ductility, durability, ease of installation, availability, low price.

Minuses: They are not here.

Conclusion: ideal for summer plumbing. Polypropylene is resistant to sun rays and is plastic, which significantly increases its chances of surviving the winter, even if the water inside the pipe freezes.

Low pressure polypropylene pipes - HDPE

These are black pipes sold in coils. They differ from ordinary polypropylene pipes in their smaller wall thickness and installation method - the system is assembled using special clamp fittings.

Pros: plasticity, durability, ease of installation, accessibility, low price - HDPE pipes are inferior in cost only to polypropylene pipes.

Minuses: low strength.

Conclusion: quite suitable option. The only thing it requires is control of the inlet pressure.

Let's summarize. The best option For the installation of the summer water supply there will be polypropylene pipes, it is better to stop with them. All shut-off valves should be valve only and, preferably, made of the same material as the pipes themselves.

Principles for installing summer water supply

We’ve decided what to make from, let’s now decide how to make it. The first stage is theoretical.

Summer water supply topology

On a sheet of graph paper, draw your existing or future vegetable garden. Mark the water source. Your task is to lay the pipes, that is, draw straight lines on the sheet so that their total length is minimal and they do not intersect the beds. In this case, several nuances need to be taken into account.

There should be either separate water points for each bed, if they are located at a considerable distance from each other, or one point for two, maximum three beds, if they are nearby. In this case, each point should be no further than 1-2 m from the bed being served.

Each turn of the pipe leads to a drop in water pressure in the system. With a large number of them, you risk not getting any water at all. The ideal option is a “star” system, where a straight pipe is laid to each water intake point from the source. True, in this case the most material will be consumed and it is not always possible to do this without crossing the beds. A trunk system is also good, where one straight pipe is laid along the garden, and pipes are led from it to the beds. In this case, to avoid a significant pressure drop, the main should be made of pipes two sizes larger than the supply pipes. That is, if you are laying a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, and it does not cost less, then the mains must be installed from a 32 mm pipe. In a star water supply system, all pipes are laid with the same diameter, at least 20 mm.

We drew a wiring diagram. It took into account not only existing, but also future beds. Let's move on to the practical part.

Installation of summer water supply

If you draw the entire summer water supply layout to scale on graph paper, it will be quite easy to estimate the amount of material and components required. But before starting work directly, we need to decide on one more question: how will we lay the pipes?

For summer water supply, pipes are laid in two ways:

1. Open. All pipes will go along the surface of the earth.

Pros: the water supply is open, accessible for repairs and constant monitoring, it is easy to drain the water for the winter; to do this, just open the water tap and lift the opposite edge of the pipe, there is no risk of accidental damage.

Minuses: pipes are open to negative impact environment, unaesthetic appearance, pipes may interfere with free movement.

2. Closed. The pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of about 50 cm.

Pros: the pipes are protected from the negative effects of the environment by a layer of earth, the whole system looks neat.

Minuses: repair and modernization are difficult, more complex to manufacture, and require the organization of a special system for draining water for the winter.

The last question should be addressed separately. As noted above, it is necessary to drain the water so that it does not burst the pipes when it freezes. If everything is quite clear with an open water supply system, then for a closed one you need to equip special drainage points - pits. To allow water to flow out, pipes must be laid with a slight slope. Pits are made at the lowest points. Drain taps are installed at the ends. Accordingly, in the fall, water is drained from the container or the tap at the entrance to the system is turned off, the water taps at the ends of the pipes are opened, and the drain taps are opened. The water flows downhill into the pit. That's it, the system is dehydrated.

How to make a plumbing system is up to everyone to decide for themselves. Its assembly will differ little from the system installed inside the house. In any case, if you do not have the appropriate skills, it is better to seek the services of specialists. Your task is to monitor the quality of work and compliance with the above requirements.

Accessories for water supply connections with watering devices

The water supply is ready, you can use it. To connect irrigation equipment to it, you can use various devices. The simplest and most popular today are combinations of metal or plastic fittings onto which hoses are placed and tightened with a clamp.

IN Lately So-called quick-release connectors are gaining popularity. They are good because they are universal. Dividers, couplings, splitters, watering units, all of them have a connection to hoses via quick releases.

The principle of operation is quite simple. A coupling is installed at the end of the hose with a hose collet at one end and a quick-release mechanism at the other. Now any device that has a quick-release fitting as a connection can be easily connected by simply snapping it into place. Similarly, you can connect two hoses with a connecting fitting.

Having completed the installation of the summer water supply, you will be one step closer to equipping your dacha with an automatic irrigation system. The last thing left to do is organize individual watering for each bed. This will be the topic of the third and final article of our series.