A fence made of boards on metal crossbars. Do-it-yourself wooden fence on metal posts: design features

Construction is difficult process which requires a lot of knowledge and skills. And if a person was faced with the task of attaching wooden beam to metal, then for this it is important to find out the necessary information. Because this work process is extremely specific and requires at least minimal skill, and even better if the work is done not alone, but with four hands.

Where to start and what to do

To begin with, it is worth deciding on the possible thickness of the metal itself, and selecting it according to its size. necessary tools. It is important to choose high-quality and durable screws, the thickness of which will directly depend on the type of metal sheet. Everything should be as harmonious and correctly selected as possible. The size of the beam in this case does not play too big a role. In order to attach the beam to the metal, in metal sheet or in any other form, you need to drill the necessary hole that will fit the beam. And after that, install the tree to the required height or correct position and then begin installing the screws. Regarding screws, you shouldn’t feel sorry for them, because this process they are a guarantee of the reliability and strength of the entire structure. If you suddenly lose If you are trying to install wood into slate together with metal, for example, then the screws should be replaced with self-tapping screws of the greatest length and volume. Since the work required is quite painstaking, and the timber will have to be held while screwing in the screws, it is worth using the services of some assistant. Because it is almost impossible to cope with this task alone. With four hands everything will go much faster and with a full guarantee of quality.

Is it worth preparing the tree?

If installing wood into metal is necessary for street design, then the tree must be prepared and lubricated with a special solution to ensure that the tree is dry and not exposed to moisture. This way you can ensure that the structure stands for a long time and reliably, and delights you with its beautiful appearance. The type of wood when working with metal does not have special knowledge, the main thing is to choose perfect option according to size and purpose of use.

Wooden beam - practical construction material. Low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, securing the beam to the foundation is not so easy, because wood cannot be glued to concrete or welded to metal. In this article we will talk about how timber is attached to various foundations what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.

Types of foundations for a timber house

Waterproofing

The bottom beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be properly protected from water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasant-smelling) substances. If it is not possible to process the grillage or bottom beam heavy fractions of oils, then it is necessary to use less effective substances, and at least 2 layers of roofing material must be laid between the foundation or iron/concrete grillage and timber. This is material that falls out due to temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, but the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then waterproofing must be laid both under and above it. This will protect the wall from dampness and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is better?

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

timber moisture;
climatic conditions;
seismic activity;
the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fastening damp (over 16%) timber to wooden grillage Only shrinkage compensators should be used. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, the beam is high and especially natural humidity, gives very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten timber with high or natural humidity to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing timber on threaded rods. Instead of a nut and washer, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same fastening method should be used in those regions where there are heavy and long rains in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use the lower beam with a humidity of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective waterproofing and install it at the maximum rigid mount(regular and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach must be applied in those regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting rigid anchorage in seismically active or windy regions will result in the anchorage being exposed to external factors will become loose and the house will begin to rock. Neglect of shrinkage compensators when working with natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the flashing crown and the foundation or grillage.

Any owner suburban area Quite rightly, he is trying to fence off his possessions in some way. Thus, the construction of a fence is always included in the list of priority tasks, and it is often started to be installed even before the construction of the main house begins. There are a great many design options for such fencing. But despite the very wide range of materials offered for sale, both general construction and specifically designed for the construction of fences, wooden fences remain one of the most popular.

Wooden fences have been used for centuries and have proven their practicality. True, the fence supports were and remain a vulnerable point - wood from constant contact with the ground quickly succumbs to biological decomposition, and wooden poles, alas, short-lived. But nothing in our time prevents us from finding a more thorough solution. So, for example, a wooden fence will last much longer metal poles. It is these types of fences that will be discussed in this publication.

The neighbor was planning to put up a boundary fence made of corrugated sheet metal. I forcibly talked him out of the wooden one. However, he had already purchased the base material for the fence: metal posts and metal profile logs. Now he wants to drill holes in these joists and screw the boards to them with galvanized screws.
He doesn’t understand the reasoning - that it’s easier, cheaper and more reliable to buy 20 rubles each and instead of these lags weld blank plates for bolting wooden beams to the posts, to which it will then be easy and simple to nail the boards.
You can understand him - where to put these recklessly purchased logs now? But there is a suspicion that not only will drilling pieces of iron take longer and hemorrhoids, but these self-tapping screws will rust in a few years and the boards will fly off...
Or am I wrong and this is how they do it - boards on pieces of iron?
If you really want to dissuade your neighbor, try to think through the situation thoroughly in advance. What will you say to your neighbor, what can he tell you in response, etc. What you told us here will be crushed to smithereens in the first minute of the conversation. Here is a possible justification for the neighbor's position.
A fence with metal logs between the posts is more reliable than a fence with wooden logs, since the metal logs themselves and their attachment to the posts are definitely more reliable (stronger).
The fence frame when using metal logs will certainly be more durable, and during future repairs it will be for a long time will only involve replacing the sheathing boards, whereas otherwise replacement may also be required wooden logs.
The screws that secure the boards and the nails that secure the boards will also rust. This is an argument over the counter.
But it is a fact that in this case, boards secured with self-tapping screws will loosen later than boards nailed. The nails are smooth and will be held in place by the wood, while the self-tapping screw has a thread that will eventually go into the metal. In addition, the screws can be tightened (tightened) if necessary, but what about the nails?
I'll cautiously suggest that you haven't tried screwing screws into the profile? Rumors about the difficulty of attaching anything to the profile resp. self-tapping screws - greatly exaggerated. And if in your life you have had to work with a screwdriver more often than with a hammer (and now this is very often the case), then by screwing self-tapping screws into the profile with a good screwdriver, you will most likely outrun yourself holding the hammer in your hands.
Nowadays, perhaps everyone has a screwdriver available, and the only tool for driving nails at hand is almost certainly a hammer. It is physically easier to work with a screwdriver than to hammer nails.
In order to efficiently hammer boards onto the fence with a hammer, you still need to adapt: so that your efforts to nail the next board do not lead to the loosening of the previous ones. With a screwdriver and metal joists, this problem simply does not exist.
Let's look at prices. For the logs, the neighbor most likely bought a 20x40 profile, costing about 70 rubles per meter? That is, an ordinary log 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.
Despite the fact that when using metal profile of any length, at any distance between the posts, there will be no scraps, since it can be welded together. When using wooden logs, we either end up with scraps or additional ones. plates/corners for joining joists outside the pillars (two plates - 40 RUR). Or you will have to make the width between the pillars a multiple standard length lumber 3 meters, which may not in the best possible way will affect the strength of a relatively heavy wooden fence, especially one assembled on wooden logs.
But let's return to the prices for logs. Unless, of course, you don’t get the wooden logs for free. For the logs of a wooden fence, a 50x100 board is good. It costs approximately 5,000 rubles per cubic meter of natural moisture and about 8,000 rubles per cubic meter of dry moisture. That is, the cheapest board (whether it soon turns into a “saber”, “propeller” or simply cracks - we’ll leave it behind the scenes) will cost about 25 rubles per meter. Laga best quality, will cost 40 rubles per meter.
To summarize, a metal beam in a run between two pillars 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.
A wooden beam 2.5 meters long of worse quality will cost 62.5+20=82.5 rubles. And the quality is better, already 100+20=120 rubles. 20 rubles - the cost of the plate that is needed to attach the log to the pole.
If the width of the common fence between the plots is 30 meters and two logs (if the length of the fence or the number of logs is different, the following calculations will need to be clarified), we get the cost of equipping the fence with metal logs 70x2x30 = 4200 rubles. The cost of equipping the same length of fence with wooden logs is worse than 1500 for logs and about 500 rubles for plates: 1500+500=2000 rubles. If you take better lags, then 2400+500=3100 rubles. And we left behind the scenes the situation with the possible appearance of scraps when using wooden logs.
That is, the savings in log material when using high-quality wooden logs instead of metal profile logs will amount to as much as 1,100 rubles at 30 meters!
Despite the fact that refusal to use metal joists puts the neighbor at a loss of 4,200 rubles.
P.S. And, please, no offense, but you probably shouldn’t be so biased towards your neighbor (I’m talking about “reasons”, etc.).
In any case, do not forget that you still have to live with him

You need to fasten the corrugated sheet with self-tapping screws (to metal surfaces or wooden frame) and rivets (sheet to sheet).

To install a profiled sheet, in most cases a frame is made. The structure is made of metal profiled pipe (square, rectangle), wooden slats, plasterboard profile, regular corner. Sometimes they make wall cladding by mounting the sheets directly to the brick or stone.

How and with what in each specific case to fix the corrugated sheet?

Self-tapping screws (self-tapping) for metal with a metal washer and rubber seal

A self-tapping screw (commonly a self-tapping screw) is made in the form of a rod with a tip resembling a drill, a triangular thread and a head for a wrench or a screwdriver. In addition to screws with a drill tip, screws with a sharp tip are produced. To fasten the corrugated sheet, complete with a screw, use a press washer and a rubber sealing gasket.

We apply:

for attaching corrugated sheets to metal surfaces;
with steel thickness up to 12.5 mm;
without pre-drilling holes;
for installation, for cladding facades, gables, making gates, wickets, etc.

We do not use:

for fastening sheets to tool and high-carbon steels;
for binding metal profiled sheets together;
for attaching to wooden structures;
for fastening to metal less than 1 mm thick.

How do we determine quality?

When purchasing, we require a quality certificate that reflects the characteristics according to the DIN standard, including:

For fastening to a frame with a thickness of 2.32 mm, we use products for drill No. 1, with a diameter of 4.8 mm, pitch 2.12. For metal 5.5 mm drill No. 3, 8.5 mm - No. 4, 12.5 mm - No. 5. Thread pitch 1.8. Self-tapping screws large diameters must be coated with zinc with a thickness of at least 12 microns.

We select the length of the self-tapping screws depending on the purpose. To attach the profiled sheet to the lower wave, choose a size larger than the materials being joined by 3mm. When screwed into the upper wave, for example, to attach skates, the length increases by the height of the profile.

The industry produces 3 types of self-tapping screws according to the shape of the head:

hexagonal;
cruciform;
anti-vandal.

For conventional installation It is easier to work with a hexagonal head shape. We use anti-vandal screws for fences and cladding, the removal of which outside will provide free access to the premises or territory. Installation of products is done with a special tool.

Important nuances when attaching corrugated sheets with self-tapping screws:

We tighten the screws with a washer and a rubber gasket strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet.
According to the characteristics, the screws are suggested to be screwed in at 2500 rpm, but it is difficult to calculate the force by touch. Tighten the screws so as not to squeeze the rubber washer. A flattened seal will crack over time and will not create a tight seal.
We do not use rubber seals where monolithic fastening is required.
In places where unauthorized access to fasteners is possible, we use anti-vandal screws or use self-tapping screws with a notch that prevents arbitrary unscrewing.

How to attach profiled sheets to a wooden frame?

For roofs mounted on wooden sheathing, there is no alternative to traditional metal screws. Select screws with the largest thread pitch. The larger this parameter, the more reliable the mount.

Vertically located profiled sheets that do not require a hermetic fastening, in order to save money, are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws with a monolithic press washer. In everyday life it is an ordinary self-tapping screw with a wide head. For screwing, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted into the screwdriver.

If the sheathing is made of DVL, chipboard, etc., we use screws with double-threaded threads. For the roof, we make a set of washers and cuffs ourselves, selecting the diameter of the screw.

Use standard wood screws, including those intended for fastening plasterboard sheets. This fastener has a countersunk head and, when screwed in, will damage the surface of the corrugated sheet.
Use screws with a drill tip. Wood does not require drilling, a sharp self-tapping screw is screwed in more securely, and the passage through corrugated sheets makes it acceptable for a large amount of work.

Is it possible to attach corrugated sheeting to shell rock (limestone, brick)?

We mount the sheets directly to the wall made of stone or brick using dowels and anchors. To install, pre-drill holes in the metal. We select fastener heads with a monolithic wide washer. The shape of a plastic insert with a shimmer that acts as a seal. We make the hole in the corrugated sheet 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the insert.

For quick installation use dowels with impact screws. They differ from traditional screws and screws in the shape of the thread. Disadvantage: if struck, the surface of the sheet can be damaged.
Do not attach sheets to surfaces with protrusions or uneven surfaces.

How to connect sheets of profiled metal to each other?

The standard thickness of profiled iron is 0.4 mm. It is unreliable to connect two sheets using self-tapping screws, for example at an overlap, since the fastening is fragile and depends on the thread pitch.

To solve the problem we use rivets. The fastener consists of two parts, which are made of aluminum. Rivets are installed in pre-prepared holes and do not require access to back side. For installation we use a rivet device. In places where required hidden installation rivets, we use a hole punch (special pliers holders that pierce the corrugated sheet from the end of the wave).

Rivets can be used as fasteners for installing roofing, fence cladding, etc. The disadvantage is labor intensity. A through hole must be drilled for each rivet.

Other methods of installing corrugated sheets

Screw and bolt connection

The corrugated sheet is attached to metal surfaces using screws, for example, when used as casings on machines, for fastening to special steels. We drill holes in the sheet and the base on which installation is taking place, cut the threads and install.

A bolted connection is used in the same way, but drilling is required for fastening through holes both in the sheet and in the material to which installation is taking place. Bolts are used to connect corrugated sheets to metal and wooden frames, preventing vandalism and unauthorized access.

Adhesive base

For internal lining smooth walls Profiled sheets can be installed with glue. As a binding element, use metal putty mixed with PVA glue. The sheets are pressed to the base and kept until plasticized. adhesive composition. In this version, corrugated sheeting does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves for decorative purposes.
We have you and a set of screws for it.