Golden rules for growing roses. How to plant roses correctly in spring, summer and autumn Summer planting roses

If you have an apple tree growing in your garden, naturally you want to get as many tasty fruits from it as possible. Often, beginning gardeners believe that the more magnificent the tree, the greater the harvest. But that's not true. In order for an apple tree to produce a rich, high-quality harvest, so that the fruits are large and juicy, each of its branches must receive enough light and air. When the amount of light falling on the branches is reduced to 30 percent, fruit buds do not form on the trees.

Ferns are one of the categories that are actively gaining popularity. indoor plants. Their luxurious leaves with unique patterns and soothing, mysterious shades of green look so elegant that it is difficult to resist the beauty of ferns, even if they are not suitable place. Along with unpretentious ferns Rare, original species are becoming more common. And among them is a bizarre epiphyte polypodium with unusual leaves and colors.

Bigos in Belarusian - a hot dish from sauerkraut and meat, which is prepared in many countries: Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Ukraine and Belarus. Each country has its own cooking characteristics, but the base is approximately the same everywhere - a mixture of pickled and fresh white cabbage, pork belly and smoked meats. Bigos takes quite a long time to prepare, but the result is worth it. From not himself pleasant aroma You can easily get rid of stewed sauerkraut by following my recommendations.

Gardeners waking up from " hibernation", missed you gardening work, and hands reach out to the tools. But it is important to approach the issue of pruning ornamental plants competently. It’s not for nothing that they say “measure twice and cut once.” Our article will help you figure out how to give plants the right spring “hairstyles,” which of your green pets will be happy to respond to a new haircut, and for which garden residents it is better to wait a while with pruning.

Cucumbers are the favorite crop of most gardeners, so they grow in our vegetable beds everywhere. But quite often, inexperienced summer residents have many questions about growing them, and, first of all, in open ground. The fact is that cucumbers are very heat-loving plants, and the agricultural technology of this crop in the zones temperate climate has its own characteristics. We will tell you everything you need to know about growing cucumbers in open ground in this article.

May days delight with warmth and the opportunity to spend more time on the plots. But the long-awaited month of arrival of stable heat cannot boast of balance lunar calendar. In May, the periods favorable for working only in an ornamental garden or only in a vegetable garden are quite long, and there are quite a few days suitable for any plants. The lunar calendar for May 2019 requires planning and skillful distribution of planting and sowing times.

Snack cake - simple and delicious! This chicken liver cake with vegetables and delicious sauce will decorate the modest family celebration or Sunday lunch. Liver pancakes, also known as the layers of our cake, are very easy to prepare; liver dough is easiest to make in a blender. Pancakes are fried for several minutes on each side. The cream (sauce) for the snack cake is made from sour cream, mayonnaise and herbs. If you grind dill with salt, the cream will turn a light green color.

Despite the popularity of the popular nickname "bottle palm", the genuine bottle palm It is very difficult to confuse Giophorba with its relatives. A real indoor giant and quite a rare plant, hyophorba is one of the most elite palm trees. She became famous not only for her special bottle-shaped trunk, but also for her very difficult character. Caring for hyophorba is no more difficult than ordinary indoor palm trees. But the conditions will have to be selected.

Warm salad with funchose, beef and mushrooms - delicious dish for the lazy. Funchoza - rice or glass noodles - is one of the easiest to prepare among its pasta relatives. Just pour boiling water over the glass noodles and leave for a few minutes, then drain the water. Funchoza does not stick together and does not need to be watered with oil. I advise you to cut long noodles into smaller pieces with scissors so as not to inadvertently snag the entire portion of noodles in one sitting.

Surely, many of you have come across this plant, at least as a component of some cosmetic or food products. It is “masked” under different names: “jujube”, “unabi”, “jujube”, “ Chinese date“, but all this is the same plant. This is the name of a crop that has long been grown in China, and was grown as a medicinal plant. From China it was brought to the Mediterranean countries, and from there jujube began to slowly spread throughout the world.

May chores in the decorative garden are always associated with the need to use every free minute as productively as possible. This month, flower seedlings are planted and seasonal decoration begins. But you shouldn’t forget about shrubs, vines, or trees. Due to the imbalance of the lunar calendar this month with ornamental plants It works best in early and mid-May. But the weather does not always allow you to follow the recommendations.

Why do people move to the countryside and buy dachas? For a variety of reasons, of course, including practical and material ones. But the main idea is still to be closer to nature. The long-awaited summer season has already begun; a lot of work awaits us in the garden. With this material we want to remind you and ourselves that in order for work to be a joy, you must remember to rest. What could it be better than rest in the fresh air? Just relax in a furnished corner of your own garden.

May brings not only long-awaited warmth, but also no less long-awaited opportunities to plant even heat-loving plants in the beds. This month, seedlings begin to be transferred into the soil, and crops reach their peak. While planting and new crops are being planted, it is important not to forget about other important chores. After all, not only the beds need enhanced care, but also the plants in greenhouses and seedlings, which are beginning to be actively hardened off this month. It is important to form plants in time.

Pie for Easter - a homemade recipe for a simple sponge cake filled with nuts, candied fruits, figs, raisins and other goodies. The white icing that decorates the cake is made from white chocolate and butter, it won't crack, and it tastes like chocolate cream! If you don’t have the time or skills to tinker with yeast dough, then you can prepare this simple holiday baking for the Easter table. Such simple recipe I think any novice home pastry chef can master it.

Roses with a closed root system do not require immediate planting; good conditions they can be stored for a long time, even up to next year. It is best to place pots of roses in a shady, windless place in the garden. To prevent the roots from overheating and drying out, it is advisable to dig the pots into the soil or sawdust.

Water rose seedlings regularly before planting. Spraying the leaves with plain water is also useful. If planting is delayed for more than 2-3 weeks, start feeding the seedlings weekly with liquid or soluble. What is needed is seedling fertilizers used for plants in pots. Specialized fertilizers for roses are not suitable for caring for seedlings. They are ideal for roses that are already planted in the ground, and if you pour such fertilizers into a container, you can accidentally burn the roots.

Preparing a rose seedling for planting in the ground

Before planting, to ensure the good quality of the rose, carefully remove the seedling from the pot. Some companies, to simplify this task, use an insert in the form metal mesh. This is the best option, because the mesh allows you to see the condition of the roots without destroying the earthen coma.

The roots should penetrate the entire earthen ball and have fresh white roots. Such good seedlings do not require additional processing, they are only soaked in water for 1-2 hours before planting.

The metal mesh of rose seedlings does not need to be removed when planting in the ground. It decomposes itself in the soil in 1-2 years and does not interfere with the development of roots.

There are other packaging options, such as a cardboard insert. It also retains a lump, but determining the state of the roots in it is very problematic, especially if the roots have not yet grown through the walls. If you cannot examine the root system or doubt its quality, soak the seedling for several hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator. To obtain a solution, pour a sachet (10 g) of the stimulant into 7-8 liters of water and stir.

Immerse the rose roots in the solution directly in the container. If the container has a cardboard liner, you can remove plastic pot and soak the rose seedling in cardboard. Processing time is 2-3 hours.

The "Kornevin" solution for planting roses can be replaced with the "Epin" solution. Dilute 40 drops in 2 liters of water and pour the container well, placing it in a bucket. Leave in the solution for 2-3 hours.

Place to plant roses

A rose can grow in one place for decades, so it requires careful preparation.

Prepare the planting hole. Rose planting hole size 60x60, depth 50 cm. Leave the top fertile layer of soil next to the hole, remove the lower layers of soil. Soil for planting roses should be loose and fertile, so add humus or well-rotted sand, as well as 0.5 cups of double superphosphate to the soil from the top layer. Roses prefer neutral soil, so add additional additives to reduce the acidity of the soil: 1-2 cups wood or 1 cup. Mix all components thoroughly and fill the planting hole with the mixture.

If you dug a planting hole immediately before planting the rose, then fill the mixture in layers, compacting each layer so that after watering the soil does not settle too much.

At what depth should I plant a container rose?

After filling the hole, make a depression in the soil so that the upper part of the lump, when planting, is 5-7 cm below the edge of the hole. It is better to plant roses with a slight depression.

How to plant roses

Plant roses directly in a net or cardboard liner, but those parts of the liner where the roots have not yet sprouted can be carefully removed.

This will ensure air access to the root system, and the rose will take root better after planting.

Place the seedling in the prepared hole. Check again the depth level of the top of the earthen ball (5-7 cm) and pour the solution remaining after soaking into the hole.

Fill the hole with the remaining fertile mixture flush with the edge of the hole so that during rains excess rainwater does not fall into it and stagnate.

Water it. To water one rose seedling after planting, you need at least 8-10 liters of water to thoroughly wet all the soil in the planting hole.

After watering, check the planting level of the rose again. If necessary, adjust: either add soil, or, conversely, carefully pull the base of the bush so that the root collar is closer to the soil surface.

After watering, mulch the surface with peat to avoid the formation of a soil crust.

If the weather is hot, then for the first time after planting the roses should be shaded. The easiest way is to put small arcs and pull any on them.

Roses are amazing flowers, so they are absolutely justifiably very popular. Roses are loved by many due to the variety of forms, unique aroma, originality and brightness of shades, duration and abundance of flowering.

Roses are preferred by both indoor plant lovers and property owners. summer cottages With blooming gardens. Therefore, today we will talk about how to plant roses in open ground in summer.

Spring and autumn are considered the most favorable for planting roses in open ground, namely the period from the beginning of September to the second half of October. But gardeners are often forced to plant flowers in open ground in the summer. In fact, if you follow the basic rules, summer planting of roses will be no different from spring and autumn.

Basic requirements for planting roses:

• Choice of quality planting material. Often the death of rose seedlings in open ground is caused by the purchase of low-quality planting material. Before purchasing seedlings, it is recommended to study information on a particular rose variety, become familiar with its care requirements and favorable conditions development. Seedlings can be sold with either open or closed roots. When buying seedlings during a hot period, it is recommended to give preference to the second type. High-quality seedlings are characterized by a good root system with many branches, strong shoots of two or more and healthy green leaves without spots or insects on the plant.
• The right choice of location. So that the plant pleases you every year abundant flowering and healthy appearance, you need to take a responsible approach to choosing a place to plant seedlings. So, roses are sun-loving plants, so they develop rather poorly in the shade. But at the same time, an area with constant sunshine is not suitable, because in such conditions the plant quickly dries out and fades. The selected area should be free from drafts and strong winds, but sufficient ventilation is one of the important conditions normal development of roses. It is recommended to give preference to fertile, well-drained, neutral soil. But clay and sandy loam areas are considered the least favorable for roses.

Features of planting roses in open ground

To adjust the indicators, you can use manure, garden compost, peat, bone meal, wood ash. If on your summer cottage Clay soil predominates; adding sand is recommended.

Immediately before planting, the seedlings should be inspected again to ensure there is no damage and the plants are in good health. The dimensions of the formed pit must correspond to the parameters of the measles system. Mandatory preliminary preparation Seedlings are trimmed with roots until light sections appear.

If you plan to plant several roses at the same time, you need to remember that the distance between the holes should be at least 80 centimeters. The bottom of the formed pit should be filled with a nutrient mixture consisting of manure, compost or humus, and sprinkled with a small amount of soil on top. It is important to avoid direct contact of the fertilizer used with the root system of roses.

After adding a small amount of water to the hole, you can proceed directly to planting the seedlings. When placing seedlings in holes, it is important to deepen the root collar 5 centimeters from the surface.

After compacting the soil, all that remains is to water the seedlings generously, hill up the soil, forming a mound 10 cm high. Compactions from the ground are necessary to retain moisture, which is extremely important when planting seedlings in summer period.

After planting roses in open ground in the summer, it is important to provide the plant with proper care, which includes regular and abundant watering.

It is recommended to water the seedlings twice a week, but in hot summer conditions more than that is possible. frequent watering. The seedlings should be watered at the roots, but the leaves can be sprayed with water or a special solution that repels pests.

After the first year of development of rose seedlings in open ground, you can begin to fertilize the plants.

It is recommended to fertilize in the early stages of the growing season, as soon as buds form, after flowering and before the shoots begin to thicken. Give preference when spring feeding It is better to use nitrogen fertilizers, but closer to autumn - complex ones.

If you, as a florist, love the “classics,” you definitely can’t do without roses in your front garden. They are called the queens of the garden, because with their buds, which exude a wonderful aroma, they can decorate even a small flowerbed. How to plant a rose and what a gardener needs to do to grow a lush pink bush? This can be clarified in advance. But how to plant a rose correctly and what time of year is the most optimal for this - these and other questions often bother beginning flower lovers. It's time to look for answers to them.

Many amateur gardeners are faced with the problem of summer planting the queen of the garden. Is this possible in principle and how to properly plant roses in open ground in the summer? In fact, an experienced specialist will in any case argue that summer is not the best best time for planting purchased shrubs. You can still try to root purchased roses from a container if you do not remove this shelter from the rhizome.

But when it comes to planting a seedling with an open root system, planting roses in the ground in the summer means subjecting the plant to serious stress. As a result, it may simply not take root.

What to pay attention to and how to prepare

You can plant roses in the summer, but some recommendations should be followed in any case. Since professionals strongly emphasize the need to purchase seedlings in containers, give preference to such specimens, even if they cost you a little more. When you have already decided on the plant variety, it’s time to go shopping.

If everything is generally clear with the planted bushes, then there are still a few left in the process of care. important points, without which summer planting of roses is unlikely to give the desired result. Special attention pay attention to soil moisture. In summer, the air temperature is much higher, which means the soil dries out quite quickly. Therefore, the soil will need to be moistened constantly if you want the seedling to take root quickly.

How to plant a rose in summer

Roses are planted in autumn or spring. But if you decide to experience for yourself what summer planting of this plant is like, follow the basic recommendations to achieve good results.

Planting roses in the summer with an open root system is carried out by domestic gardeners. However, having planted such a plant, do not rush to relax, the main thing is to provide it with some care. For example, water for irrigation must settle. Do not use it to irrigate the substrate under any circumstances. cold water– it needs to be heated.

If desired, spray the leaves and flowers of the bush. Remember: you can grow planted roses not only in spring or autumn, but also in summer. But in order for the effect of summer planting to be no worse than that of spring planting, try to strictly follow basic recommendations specialists.

Video “Basics of planting rose seedlings”

From this video you will learn how to properly plant roses in the ground in summer and at other times of the year.

Choosing a healthy seedling

As a rule, seedlings are sold with an open root system, closed and seedlings in containers.
The advantage of purchasing bare-root bushes is that you have the opportunity to examine the development of the root system. Seedlings highest category have at least three stems, the average one - at least two. Pay attention to the leaves and shoots; they may show signs of disease. Root system should be well developed (the diameter of the root collar is about 8-10 mm). Carefully scratch one of the roots with your fingernail: the roots should be elastic and white.
Roses with bare roots can only be purchased during the main planting period, since even short-term storage can lead to drying out of the root system.
Capped-root seedlings are a more reliable option. Their advantage is the protection of the root system from various damages during transportation.
You can buy seedlings in containers. However, check the strength of the plant in advance and make sure that it was not transplanted shortly before the time of sale. The advantage of container seedlings is a visual assessment of the color and structure of the flower.

Choosing a place to plant roses

Favorable place: well-lit part of the garden. The sun should illuminate the roses in the morning, while during the day a light shade is needed to shelter them from the hot afternoon rays. It is also important to know that varieties of dark shades cannot be planted under straight lines. sun rays- It is better to plant roses of light colors in this place.
Unfavorable place for roses: the northern part of the garden, blown by the winds, and also under the trees, close to the walls of buildings and fences. In addition, new young roses should not be placed next to old ones. If the bush is in constant shade, this leads to intensive vertical growth and further depletion of the plant. The cold wind dehydrates the leaves and shakes the bush; the solution is to install a hedge; it should be done so as not to shade the roses.
Favorable soil for roses. Lightweight su clay soils, rich in humus, easily permeable to air and moisture. These are ideal soils, but are rare.
Soils less favorable for roses light sandy and sandy loam soils; in winter they often freeze, and in summer they overheat and are washed out of them faster nutrients. Rotted manure is added to enrich the soil. sod land, peat and lime. Heavy clay soils, where moisture is retained for a long time, also require improvement. Such soils should be drained and sand, humus, compost, and peat should be added. With a lack of oxygen, respiration and root growth deteriorate, and excess humidity slows down the development of the root system and leads to the death of the plant.
Unfavorable for roses, the soil is waterlogged, swampy, with high level groundwater. Excessive moisture in the area will destroy the bush. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5 meters.
Soil for roses is preferable slightly acidic, pH (indicator of soil acidity level) - 6.0-6.5. At a pH of about 7, the soil is considered neutral, at a pH below 7 - acidic, and with a pH above 7 - alkaline. To increase acidity, peat and manure are added to the soil, and to get rid of toxins, ash, lime or dolomite flour are added.
Swampy, saline and rocky soils should be avoided. In areas with cold climates and short summers, roses need alkaline soil.
It is not recommended to root seedlings in places where rose bushes previously grew. Due to depletion, the soil here can be infected with pests and pathogens. If there is no other option, remove the soil in a layer of 70 cm and fill in a new one.

Time to plant roses

Roses are being planted before buds open, as soon as the soil warms up to about +10 °C (in the south - in April, in middle lane- late April - early May). During spring planting their roots are shortened to 30 cm. If the plant was purchased with roots already cut, the cuts need to be renewed. For park, climbing, and semi-climbing roses, the roots are slightly shortened and weak or damaged shoot tips are removed. U ground cover roses only update the root sections. The shoots of tall roses are shortened by 10-15 cm, and of climbing roses by up to 35 cm. Immediately after planting, you need to shorten their branches above the sixth bud, and the stem shoots above the third. Floribunda roses leave 3-4 buds, while hybrid tea roses leave 2-3.
Roses planted in spring require a lot of attention: it is necessary to constantly monitor soil moisture and carefully shade the seedlings from the sun.
Spring planting is not recommended if the soil is wet and heavy: during planting it becomes even more compact and difficult to loosen. It is strongly recommended to plant standard roses in the spring, since flowers of this particular variety can hardly tolerate autumn planting.
Spring is the optimal period for planting roses in mountainous areas.
Roses are planted in autumn starting from the first ten days of September until mid-October - so that the shoots have time to take root before frost. If a rose is planted with an open root system, then more early boarding such a seedling is undesirable: the plant will begin to spend too much energy on the growth of young shoots and buds, and as a result will weaken and may not tolerate winter cold. And if roses are planted later, say, at the end of October, they may not have time to take root, will not survive the winter well, and may even die.
At autumn planting cut off only damaged branches and the ends of broken shoots. You can also eliminate unripe shoots, leaving only 3-5 of the strongest ones. It is better to postpone pruning shoots with several eyes until spring.
Roses planted in autumn are pruned for the first time the following spring, lubricating the pruning areas with garden varnish.
In summer roses can also be planted, but in this case the seedlings must have a closed root system.
Throughout the season You can plant roses grown in containers.
If the plants were purchased in the fall, but frost hit, it is no longer advisable to plant them; it is better to dig them in until spring. shady place, lowering it at an angle into the ground 10 cm below the budding site. Be sure to moisten dry roots by placing the seedling in a bucket of water for two hours. When digging, the bushes are watered abundantly, covered with earth, lightly trampled and wrapped.

How to prepare roses for planting

The day before planting, roses are placed in water for 10 hours. Before planting, the roots are shortened to 20 cm, and damaged ones are cut back to healthy tissue. Remove all dried branches and trim the remaining ones. In this case, five buds are left on strong shoots, three on less strong shoots, and weak shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 3 mm at their base.
Depending on the variety, during spring planting the shoots are pruned as follows: for hybrid teas - up to 10-15 cm, for floribundas - up to 20 cm, for park ones - only the tops. In climbing roses, they try to preserve the lashes. Miniature, ground cover, bush plants do not need pruning.
For better survival, the roots should be moistened in a solution of clay and mullein (3:1), adding one tablet of heteroauxin, previously dissolved in water, to one bucket of solution.
When planting in autumn, the seedlings are not pruned, only the dried tops of the shoots are removed until they reach healthy wood, the roots are cut to 20-25 cm.

Subtleties of planting and preparing roses

The rose seedling is lowered into the hole and the roots are straightened. Consider the correct planting depth for grafted roses. The grafting site (thickening between the roots and branches) should be 2-3 cm below ground level. It is important that the soil fits tightly to the roots. The seedling is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, the position of the grafting site is checked. If the ground has settled, the seedling is raised a little and soil is added. Then they hill it up to 20-25 cm and shade it for 10-12 days. After planting, monitor the soil moisture. In dry weather, roses are watered every 4-5 days.
If the soil on the site does not respond necessary requirements To plant roses and you need to use a potting mixture, the planting technique is a little different. The mixture is poured into a mound at the bottom of the hole, and a layer of fertile soil without fertilizers is sprinkled on top to protect the roots from burns. They put up a bush, cover it again with soil without fertilizers and compact it. Otherwise there are no differences.
Make a hole around the planted bush and, watering, fill it to the brim with water three times. After moisture is absorbed, the hole is covered with earth. Then the seedlings are hilled up so that all shoots to a height of 20 cm are closed - this protects them from drying out. After the sprouts reach 2-5 cm, the roses are unplanted, and the soil around is sprinkled (mulched) with humus, compost, straw or peat in a layer of 4-6 cm.
Climbing roses should be planted so that the grafting site is 8-10 cm below the surface level, which promotes the development of grafted shoots. After planting, roses should also be hilled. If a climbing rose grows near the wall of a house, then the distance from the wall should be at least 50 cm. The plant is planted at an angle to the wall.
It is recommended to plant a standard rose by attaching its trunk to a support, otherwise it will not withstand its own weight. The support is installed in the hole before the plant is placed there. The support must be strong and reach the crown to protect the plant from strong winds. The rose is attached to the support at the level of the crown firmly and so that the tie cannot slide down the trunk and support.

Rose planting process

Preparing the soil for planting roses

In the place where you plan to plant the rose, you should remove the weeds, dig up and fertilize the soil, and prepare planting holes. The soil where the rose will grow needs to be dug to a depth of 40-50 cm and large doses added organic fertilizers at the rate of 1.5-2 kg of manure and compost for each bush. Complete mineral fertilizer is also applied. Adding stove ash is also useful.
A hole for the rose is dug wide and deep (60x50 cm), so that after planting the budding site of the seedling is 5 cm below ground level.
For spring planting, it is better to prepare planting holes in the fall, for autumn planting - in the spring. If this does not work out, the pits must be prepared at least two to three weeks before planting. Fertilizers and fertilizing are required. Sand is added to heavy clay soils and dug up, and humus is added to sandy soils. 10 days before planting, dig holes 50 cm deep for self-rooted roses and 70 cm deep for grafted ones, and fill them with water. After the water is absorbed, about three shovels of humus mixed with soil are placed in the planting hole. A week after these land procedures, the seedlings can be planted.

10-12 days after autumn planting, the plant develops small young roots, which harden before frost and overwinter well in an air-dry shelter. In spring, such roses develop simultaneously both root and above-ground parts, and a strong bush quickly forms. They bloom at the same time as the old ones.

Hilling roses

Regardless of what time of year the bush is planted, immediately after planting its above-ground part is hilled up, leaving only the upper part of the shoots uncovered. This stimulates the rooting of the young seedling, protects it from frost during autumn planting, and from the hot sun during spring planting. If plants are planted in the spring, they are unplanted when young shoots begin to grow; if in the fall, then only after winter, when it gets warmer. It is better to do this in cloudy or rainy weather, or in the evening.

Optimal distances between roses

When planting a large number of roses optimal distance between them largely depends on the size of the bush and its purpose.
The average distance between miniature roses is 35-50 cm, between grandiflora, floribunda and hybrid tea roses - 60 cm, between climbing and park roses - from 60 cm to 1 m, between semi-climbing roses - 1-1.2 m. If created hedge, roses need to be planted close (approximately the distance between them is 40-50 cm), and one climbing plant is planted to cover the gazebo and create an arch. Climbing varieties It is better to plant at a distance of 1-2 m near supports and arches.
It is not recommended to plant roses too densely: they will begin to get sick, bloom poorly and lose foliage. In addition, dense plantings make it difficult to care for plants, especially pruning and loosening. Rarely planting roses is also undesirable: in summer the soil around the bushes gets very warm and dries out.

Pruning roses

Roses need to be pruned annually in the spring, a couple of weeks after the insulation has been removed; the leaves have not yet blossomed, but the buds have already swelled.
Spring pruning of roses is called molding. It is done by removing the cover from the plants, approximately in mid-to-late March.
Pruning should only be done with a sharp garden knife or pruning shears. The cut should be 5 mm above the bud with a slight slope away from it. The shoots are pruned to healthy wood, to a bud located on the outside of the shoot.
You need to cut off old, diseased, dry and weak shoots. U miniature roses not only cut off old branches, but also shorten all shoots by half. In large and multi-flowered plants, weak shoots are cut off above the fifth or sixth bud, leaving the rest longer. In climbers, only a few of the strongest shoots are left. For standard roses grafted onto tall trunks, all shoots are cut off, leaving lashes about 20 cm long.
Roses that bloom once do not need to be pruned. In floribunda roses, cut off the inflorescences to the first shoot or to a bud oriented outward. Flowers hybrid tea roses remove with two leaves. Ground cover varieties roses and rose hips need only be pruned to give them beautiful view. In order for the flowers of these roses to be large, it is necessary to remove part of the ovaries.

Good and bad neighbors of roses

Roses are like people - they do well with some plants, but not so much with others...
The queen of flowers feels great next to clematis; marigolds, calendula, foxgloves, crocuses, hosta, aquilegia, gladiolus, and petunia are also worthy companions. It would be very nice if edible or decorative garlic or lavender grew next to the rose. Their essential oils contain biologically active substances - phytoncides, which protect rose bushes from pests and diseases.
Poppy, lavender, narcissus, white wormwood, phlox, and astilbe will not interfere with roses. Tulips, lilies, daylilies, delphiniums, primroses and ferns will be neutral for her.
But next to heucheras, sedums, saxifrages, aster, iris, peony, pansies, sweet peas, Turkish cloves, and cereals, the rose feels very bad - they oppress it.

Rose propagation

Roses for the garden can be propagated by grafting (this is the method mainly practiced in Ukraine), as well as by layering, suckers, division, and cuttings. Roses are also grafted. We will describe other methods.
Graft. Roses are grafted (by cutting or eye) onto rootstocks, which are grown from cuttings or rosehip seeds. The rootstock must have a powerful, well-branched root system, not produce wild growth, be frost-, drought- and moisture-resistant, durable and compatible with the scion. The main method of budding is through a T-shaped incision. It is better to do this vaccination in mid-July.
First, the root collar of the rootstock is freed from the soil and thoroughly wiped with a piece of cloth. Then a T-shaped cut is made on the root collar of the rootstock. The vertical line should be about 2.5 cm, the horizontal line should be about 1 cm. The bark is moved apart so that it is easy to insert the shield with the kidney.
The next step: from cuttings cut from the middle part of mature shoots, from the bottom up we cut off a shield (a piece of bark with a dormant bud) with a small layer of wood, which we immediately remove. We insert the shield with the kidney into the T-shaped incision. We cut off the upper, protruding part of the shield at the level of the horizontal cut. After this, we wrap the grafting site tightly with budding film. After three weeks, we check the kidney for survival. If it does not turn black, but remains green and slightly swollen, the budding went well. Before the onset of cold weather, the grafted plants must be covered with earth approximately 7 cm above the budding, and in early spring they must be planted slightly below the grafting site. The upper part of the rootstock, departing about 1 cm from the graft, is cut into a spike and the budding film is removed. After a couple of weeks, the bud begins to actively develop and a shoot appears. To form a bush, we pinch the shoots above the third or fourth leaf.

By layering Almost all types of roses are propagated, but this method is best suited for ground cover and climbing roses. In spring, a one-year-old stem is bent from the bush. In the part that will be in the ground, make a small cut in the bark directly at the eye, which will stimulate root formation. Then the stem is bent to the ground, placed in a groove 10 cm deep, pinned, covered with fertile soil and watered regularly. The upper part of the stem with two or three buds should be above the ground in a vertical position. To stimulate tillering, the stem is pinched during growth. Next spring, the layering can already be separated from mother bush and replant.
Offspring. This is how park own-rooted roses are usually propagated, which are capable of producing root suckers that form during a period of intensive growth and extend from the main bush in the form of vertical shoots. In the spring, after the soil has thawed, they are dug up, processed and planted in another place.
Dividing the bush- the optimal way to propagate mainly climbing, park and miniature roses. In early spring When the buds have not yet begun to grow, the bush is dug up and divided into parts. The root system must be preserved on each part. The plants are then planted on permanent place.
Cuttings- the simplest and affordable way reproduction. Well suited for climbing, miniature, groundcover, scrub, grandiflora, and some hybrid tea roses. There are several types of cuttings: green cuttings, lignified and root cuttings.
Green cuttings also called summer. Roses are propagated during the budding period. Well-developed, but not too thick annual shoots from flowering, semi-lignified shoots during the flowering period are suitable. Using a sharp knife, cut cuttings 5-8 cm long, with two or three buds. The bottom leaf is removed and an oblique cut is made under its bud at a distance of 1.5-2 mm. The upper cut is made 1 cm above the bud. Next, the cuttings are treated with any fungicide to prevent fungal diseases, and then with a substance that stimulates root formation. You can root cuttings in greenhouses or room conditions in pots under glass jars or glasses. The prepared substrate is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Cuttings are planted at an angle to a depth of 1.5-2 cm at a distance of 3-6 cm from each other, and rows - at 8-10 cm. The optimal air temperature for successful rooting— 22-25 °C with humidity 80-90%. Periodically, the cuttings must be sprayed, but not over-moisten the soil, so that the cuttings do not die from waterlogging.
As soon as the first leaves appear, the jars are removed and the cuttings are gradually hardened. When the bush becomes stronger, it is transplanted to a permanent place.
Propagation by lignified cuttings. Well suited for climbing and miniature roses. Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall, during pruning of roses. For harvesting, take well-developed and ripened, smooth annual stems 4-5 mm thick. The upper part of the shoot is removed. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife or well-sharpened pruning shears, up to 20 cm long, with three to four buds each. The cut at the lower end of the cutting is made just under the bud; in the upper part of the cutting, the cut should be made obliquely in the middle of the internodes (at an equal distance between the buds). The cuttings are tied into bundles, arranged according to variety, wrapped in burlap and stored in damp sand until spring at a temperature of 1-2 °C. In the spring they are taken out, the sections are renewed and immediately lowered into water. Having taken it out of the water, plant it obliquely in the soil and water it. Only the upper bud remains visible. After planting, the cuttings are covered with jars or film. When the cutting takes root, the shelter is removed.
Propagation by semi-lignified cuttings It is carried out when at the base of young shoots the wood begins to ripen, harden and the bark turns brown. For cuttings, use the middle part of semi-lignified shoots at the flowering stage. Cuttings are harvested 7-10 cm long with 2-3 leaves. Before planting the cuttings, the substrate is watered. The prepared cuttings are planted in the ground to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The boxes are placed in a dark place and covered with film. During the rooting period it is important high humidity air, optimal temperature (20-22 °C), diffused sunlight. Cuttings take root in 3-4 weeks.
Root cuttings harvested from the underground parts of suckers that remain in the ground in the form of rhizomes, or from the underground parts of rose bushes. The collected rhizomes are temporarily buried in a basement or empty greenhouse, and in November they are cut into pieces 3 cm long, placed in boxes filled with earth, and leaf humus is added. Sprinkle about 1 cm of earth on top. For the winter, the boxes are put in a cool place. The soil should be moderately moist. In early spring, boxes with cuttings are placed in a cold greenhouse, where their root system begins to develop and green shoots with leaves appear. In April, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or soil.

note

Usually in the first year all cuttings still have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, in winter it is better to store them in a basement or cellar at a temperature of 0-5 °C. And only in spring are roses planted in beds for growing or in a permanent place. Feed young seedlings from cuttings mineral fertilizers It is possible only when they take root and begin to grow.

Watering roses

In summer, roses are watered with settled and heated water: twice a week for young bushes, once for adults. After watering and loosening, mulching is done - the ground around the bushes is covered with a 5-8 cm layer of loose organic material. This will prevent evaporation and retain moisture in the soil during summer drought, reducing the number of weeds.

The structure of a rose bush

1. Flower. 2. Escape with a flower. 3. Bud. 4. Fruit. 5. Imparipinnate leaf. 6. Five-lobed leaf. 7. Young one-year shoot. 8. Perennial woody shoot. 9. Axillary bud (eye). 10. Wild shoot or top from the rootstock. 11. Place of vaccination. 12. Root collar. 13. Rhizome. 14. Main root. 15. Lateral roots.
A rose bush consists of an above-ground part - the crown, and an underground part - the root system. The crown consists of last year's shoots, which are called skeletal shoots. Shoots formed from their buds in the current season are designated as first order shoots. In turn, shoots of the second order are formed from their buds, etc. In most varieties of roses, powerful replacement shoots (wen) grow from the lower buds of last year's shoots or from the root collar. In subsequent years they will form the basis of the bush. At the end of summer, the rose bush is represented by skeletal shoots and one-year shoots - I, II and III orders. The root system of roses is fibrous and, as a rule, goes into the soil to a depth of 50-60 cm.

Rose diseases

The most common diseases of roses: powdery mildew, rust and black spot.
Powdery mildew on roses is a disease that affects young shoots, leaves, and buds. They become covered with a white coating, the leaves curl, and the shoots become bent. To cure a plant, in the fall all affected shoots must be cut off, the leaves burned, and the soil dug up. In spring, dormant buds are sprayed with 2% copper sulfate(200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate(300 g per 10 liters of water).
Rust on roses. This diagnosis is given to a rose if rust spots, and on its lower part there are bright orange pads (an accumulation of fungal spores), which turn black by autumn and the leaves fall off. Shoots affected by rust are pruned. Early spring, before When buds open, the plants and the soil around them are sprayed with any fungicide containing copper. In summer, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 liters of water) or treat with the drug.
Black spot on roses- These are small round brown or black spots with a yellow halo. Over time, they merge, covering almost the entire sheet plate and causing premature leaf loss. When a disease is detected, diseased fallen leaves are immediately collected and burned. In autumn, plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (40 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate per 10 liters of water), watering only at the roots. And in the spring, before the buds bloom, the bushes and the soil around them are sprayed with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture(200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water).

Rose pests

Pests are a big problem for roses. The most common of them are: rose aphid, spider mite, scale insect, rose sawfly.
Larvae and adult insects settle on leaves and ends of shoots, suck sap and cause deformation. In damaged plants, the buds do not open. The pest develops in ten or more generations.
To prevent the progression of the disease, the plant is provided with an influx of fresh air, observe the dosage of nitrogen-containing drugs. If the leaves are affected, they are removed and the plant is sprayed soap solution or nettle infusion. Avoid the use of chemicals.
These flying insects suck the juice from the buds that are ready to bloom. Damaged petals become deformed and brown spots appear on them.
Spider mite. When a mite appears, a cobweb is visible on the underside of the leaf, and the top is covered with yellow dots. Method of control: treatment with a decoction of field ivy, acaricides Sunmite and Caesar.
Shchitovka can settle in both dry and wet areas. It leaves a discharge on the plant, on which fungus subsequently appears.
Control method: treatment with paraffin or mineral oil.
To combat thrips, spider mite and scale insects, plants are treated with infusions and solutions.
Rose sawfly. Its larvae overwinter in the soil under rose bushes in a silk cocoon. In June, adult sawflies emerge from the pupae, and the female lays eggs under the skin of the young shoot. In these places the skin cracks and the shoot becomes bent. The larvae feed on leaves, eating them from the edges without touching the veins. Method of control: if a plant is damaged by a sawfly, treat the bushes with a solution of one of the following drugs: “Fufanon” (10 g per 10 l of water), “Inta-Vir” or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 l of water). Preventive spraying is carried out before buds open. In the fall, you should collect and burn all plant debris and dig up the ground under the bushes.

Sheltering roses for the winter

In September, watering and fertilizing are reduced. Before covering (before frost), it is better to remove (cut) the leaves. Roses are covered by hilling up to a height of 40 cm with earth, or they are wrapped in agrofibre. climbing roses remove, place on material that will protect the shoots from moisture, and wrap. Standard roses before wrapping, bend to the ground. Almost all varieties of park roses do not need shelter.

Fertilizer and feeding

Since roses can grow in one place for many years, before planting the soil is well seasoned with fertilizers - 6-8 kg of humus, up to 200 g of wood ash, up to 20 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt are added for each square meter. Roses should be fed with mineral fertilizers when the seedlings take root and begin to grow. At the end of May - beginning of June, you can apply nitrogen fertilizer (15-20 g/m2), at the end of June and July - nitrophoska (20 g/m2), in August - superphosphate (40 g/m2) and potassium salt (20 g/m2). This is the main feeding before flowering. If the rose was fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations, then from mid-July they are no longer applied. Until mid-July, roses are fertilized with magnesium sulfate (20 g/10 l). This is the time for cutting roses.

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