Black currant planting and care - secrets of gardeners. Currants: proper planting and care in open ground

Black currant is a pearl among fruit bushes. This is one of those crops that are completely unpretentious to external conditions, but at the same time priceless in their properties. In the wild, it grows in Europe, Siberia, the Urals, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China. In agriculture, it is cultivated everywhere, since even with the most minimal care, the shrub can produce a good harvest.

Black currant is a perennial shrub whose height varies from 0.5 to 2 meters. Young shoots have a pale green color, which gradually changes to brown. The leaves are jagged, three- and five-lobed with an elongated central part, reminiscent of maple leaves.

Most varieties have bisexual flowers, which means the shrubs are self-pollinating. Flowering and fruiting extends to the entire shoot from bottom to top. The root system is fibrous.

The fruit is a sweet and sour berry, the taste of which depends on the variety. Fruiting begins the next year after planting; about half a kilogram of berries can be collected. Peak yield occurs after 4-5 years, then the weight of the harvested fruits can reach up to 7-8 kg.

The name of the culture came to us from Ancient Rus'. "Currant" - strong smell, aroma. Of all the fruit bushes, only black currant noticeably spreads its fragrance.

Landing Features

Currants are quite unpretentious - it is not difficult to plant and care for them. It is known that in many summer cottages it grows on its own and at the same time gives a very good harvest. But it’s still better to protect the shrub from unfavorable conditions and give it everything it needs. As always, planting activities begin with choosing the most suitable location.

Appropriate place

First of all, the area for currants must be well lit so that shading is present for no more than half of the daylight hours. If the terrain of the area is uneven, then you can plant shrubs on southern slopes, taking into account the prevailing winds. It is good if there is wind protection, especially for those varieties that tend to shed berries as they ripen.

The crop grows on different types of soil, although it prefers loamy soils. The main thing is that the area is fertile with an acidity closer to neutral. There should be no waterlogging, but good moisture is necessary. Black currants can be planted in the garden among young trees. The bush will grow together with its neighbors and at the same time receive ideal diffused lighting.

In the wild, black currants can be found in floodplains and in gorges among wild fruit bushes. It grows well in mountainous areas.

Time to board

The best time for planting fruit bushes is autumn, around the end of September, mid-October. The soil still retains heat, and there is enough time before frost to take root and prepare for winter.

Spring plantings are also acceptable, but less preferable. It is more difficult to choose the time, since you need to have time to plant the bush after the end of frost, but before the start of the seasonal growing season. In this case, seedlings growing in containers will come to the rescue. Then the rooting process will go faster and without stress for the plant.

Currant vegetation begins at a temperature of 3-6°C. The best temperature for growth is 18-20°C.

Soil preparation

The place where black currants will grow begins to be prepared three to four weeks before planting the bushes. To do this, remove all weeds along with their roots and, if necessary, level the area. Particular attention is paid to the growth of wheatgrass; currants do not like it very much.

The soil is dug up to 30 cm, having previously scattered 5-8 kg/m2 of organic fertilizer (ready-made humus or 3-4 tbsp. phosphorus and 1.5-2 tbsp. potassium fertilizer. Usually they take phosphate or superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ash (40 g/m2). The main thing is the absence of chlorine.

If the land on the site is depleted, the amount of fertilizer is increased by one and a half times; for fertile land, on the contrary, it is reduced by half. Acidic soils (Ph below 5.5) must be limed by adding 400-500 g/m2 of lime during autumn work. Such soil preparation is necessary for both autumn and spring planting of black currant seedlings.

The process of planting black currants

The crop is planted in a pre-dug hole 40-50 cm deep and approximately the same diameter. The hole is filled 2/3 with fertile soil, half a bucket of water is poured out and the seedling is placed in it vertically or at an angle of 45° - this work is best done with an assistant. It is necessary to ensure that the depth of the seedling is 5-7 cm above its root collar.

At what angle to plant is up to the gardener to decide. But inclined planting promotes intensive root growth and the formation of a large number of annual (zero) shoots. The bush becomes more powerful.

When planting, the roots of the plant are carefully straightened and sprinkled with soil, carefully compacting it. Then a furrow is made around the bush, where the remaining water is poured. After this, the area is covered with sawdust or peat.

The planting technology remains the same for spring work, with the only exception: all branches of the seedling are cut off, leaving 2-3 well-developed buds on each shoot.

What should the seedlings be like?

When choosing planting material, you need to rely on its appearance and general condition:

• there are no signs of damage to the seedling by pests and diseases;
• the seedling is “fresh”, as indicated by the green, moist texture under the bark;
• the root system is developed, reaching a depth of 30-35 cm;
• The bark of the shoots is smooth, without wrinkled areas.

During transportation, the roots must be wrapped in a damp cloth or cellophane. You need to plant it right away, but if this is not possible, then you can temporarily bury the seedling at an angle in the ground and water it. This way he can survive for several weeks.

Blackcurrant care

Trimming Features

ABOUT pruning is carried out every spring before the seasonal sap flow. If this was not done on time, the procedure can be postponed until autumn, when the leaves fall from the bush.

The very first pruning is carried out after planting, when all the shoots are cut off. Subsequently, diseased, damaged branches, as well as buds affected by bud mites, are removed with sharp, disinfected pruning shears. If there are too many of these buds, cut off the entire branch to the base.

In the second year, 4-5 annual shoots are left untouched, which will become the basis of the bush. In mid-July, they are pinched out for a couple of buds, which will increase the growth of the plant.

In the next two years, larger cuttings are carried out, leaving only 4-6 of the strongest branches. All young shoots are removed, and the tops of old ones are shortened. The tops of the side shoots on the branches are also pinched. This contributes to the correct formation of the bush.

In the fifth or sixth year of life, anti-aging pruning is already necessary. To do this, cut off all the old branches and leave 4-5 of the strongest young ones. The tops of last year's branches are removed.

Watering and loosening

Black currants need regular watering. Then it will grow well and give an excellent harvest. For convenience, you can install drip irrigation. If this is not possible, moisten the soil about once a week, pouring 2-3 buckets of water under the bush to moisten the soil to a depth of 35-40 cm.

It is good if watering is carried out with settled rainwater. This should be done in the morning or evening, trying to prevent water from getting on the shoots. To do this, make a furrow around the bush. After the soil dries out a little, it will need to be loosened by 5-6 cm and mulched. If necessary, remove weeds. The shrub requires moisture throughout the growing season, including in autumn.

Top dressing

If the soil is well prepared before planting, then you do not need to feed the currants for the first two years. For the next two years, in the spring, nitrogen fertilizer in the form of urea or ammonium nitrate is applied to each bush at a rate of 40-50 g per bush. In the future, this number is halved.

Dry mineral fertilizers are scattered around the bush at a distance of 15-20 cm from it, after which the ground is loosened and watered. Liquid fertilizers are applied into the grooves made around the bush.

In the fall, ready-made humus or bird droppings are good feeding - 5-6 kg per bush. Also add 4-5 tbsp. superphosphate and 1-2 tbsp. potassium sulfate. This is a standard set of fertilizers that provides the plant with everything it needs. Autumn fertilizing can be applied once every two years.

Foliar feeding not only nourishes the plant, but also increases its resistance to diseases and pests. It is carried out 2 times - during the flowering period and the filling of berries. To do this, take any complex fertilizers, which are pre-diluted in water according to the rate indicated on the package. Or use manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8.

Diseases and pests

When choosing a blackcurrant seedling variety, you need to focus on its resistance to diseases and pests. Among the cultural diseases there are the following:

The main fight against the problem is carried out with the help of fungicides, such as Fitosporin-M, Fundazol and others. As a preventative measure, the crop can be irrigated with a 1% solution 4 times per season. It is also necessary to carry out sanitary pruning of currants in the spring, and carefully remove all fallen leaves every autumn. One of the preventive measures is to water the bush in spring with hot water at 80°C before active sap flow begins.

Known pests include:

Insecticides are used to control pests, for example Karbofos, Fitoverm, Iskra Bio and others.

Propagation of black currant

Currants are propagated only by the best and, most importantly, healthy varieties. They do this in three ways:

Dividing the bush

To do this, the bush is hilled high in the spring and watered regularly during the summer. If necessary, add soil. In the fall, after shedding its leaves, the bush will be ready for propagation - using a sterilized tool, divide it into two or three parts so that each has well-developed roots and shoots. The separated bushes are immediately planted in a permanent place. They will begin to bear fruit in a year.

By layering

Take the healthiest two-year-old branch growing close to the ground, and dig its middle part to a depth of 10-12 cm in a pre-dug and fertilized area. Add drops so that the tip of the shoot, 30 cm long, remains on the surface. The layer is secured to the ground using a bracket. During the summer, it is actively watered and, if necessary, hilled up and weeds are removed. By autumn, it will develop a root system and 2-3 young shoots will appear. Then it can be separated and planted in a new place.

Cuttings

To propagate by cuttings, a strong young shoot 7-8 cm thick is cut with a sterile instrument into pieces 20 cm long so that the lower cut is oblique and the upper cut is straight. The work is carried out in mid-autumn, when the bush is prepared for winter. The resulting shrubs are left in water overnight, and the next day they are planted in prepared soil using technology for adult shrubs.

If planting is postponed until spring, you can plant the cuttings in cups with substrate. In the spring they will already have a developed root system, ready to grow in open ground.

Variety of black currants

Crop varieties are divided mainly according to ripening time and quality of berries. In Russia there are about two hundred of them, but no more than 10-15 species are usually offered for sale on the regional market. This is due to the fact that not all shrubs are adapted to local conditions, so sellers offer adapted young seedlings.

Most currant varieties are self-pollinating, but they get along well with each other. Planting them together significantly increases the yield and quality of the fruit.

Early ripening varieties

They bloom in May and produce a ripe harvest within 1.5-2 months. The exact timing depends on the weather conditions of the region, and therefore it would be more correct to say that in early currant varieties the period between flowering and ripening is much shorter than in other types.

For areas with a cold climate, early ripening varieties are ideal - the fruits have time to ripen and gain sweetness.

The most prominent representatives of this group are considered to be Exotica, Selechinskaya 2, Summer Resident, Little Prince, Blueberry Seedling, Dikovinka, Izyuminka and others.

Mid-season varieties

They harvest around mid to late July. For many gardeners, this is the most suitable option for growing in the country.

The harvest time coincides with other crops, which allows for combined home harvesting with currants for the winter.

Mid-season varieties are called Delicatessen, Black Pearl, Dobrynya, Perun, Azhurnaya, Titania, Bolero and others.

Late ripening varieties

The fruits of late varieties ripen in August, and they are best suited for freezing and canning.

In addition, planting late varieties allows you to enjoy this tasty and healthy berry longer.

Late-ripening varieties include Bagira, Lentyay, Yadrenaya, Venus, Katyusha, Vologda, etc.

The best varieties

It is known that the largest currant grows in Siberia, where it was bred - this is the Yadrenaya variety. The size of its fruits in its homeland is up to 8 g. However, when planted in warmer areas, the variety loses its qualities, producing smaller fruits and acquiring a sour taste.

Large-fruited varieties are also called:

• Dobrynya with berries up to 7 g and yield per bush up to 6 kg;
• Selechenskaya 2 with fruits up to 5 g and yield up to 5 kg;
• Lazy person, which has fruits of 4-5 g and a yield of up to 2.2 kg.

In terms of taste, the best indicators are for dessert varieties with a score above 4.5 points: Centaur, Perun, Delicatessen, Selechenskaya, Venus, Slastena, Izyumnaya.

By choosing the most successful varieties for your plot, you can not only make preparations for the winter, but also put up for sale their berries, which are always in demand. The main thing is not to forget that, despite its unpretentiousness, black currants, like any other crop, require attention and care.

Ideal time for planting black currants- the beginning of the autumn period (end of September - first days of October).

Before the first frost, the plant planted at this time manages to completely restore the root system, firmly settling in the ground.

• It is recommended to plant black currants in the spring only in special cases - they do not tolerate such planting too well.

If you missed the favorable autumn time, dig in the seedlings before the spring season.

But know that such planting requires certain places with very little snow cover (the shrub easily freezes the roots).

In spring, it is better to plant black currants at the end of April (have time to do this before the buds begin to bloom).

The most important event

This is precisely planting currants. It's a troublesome and responsible matter.

Seedlings for you can plant black currants not only buy in nurseries, but if you already have currant plantations on your site, then you can take excellent material from them:

1. We cut several cuttings from young, summer branches. Leave 4 buds on each.
2. We cut off the tops of the branches - we don’t need them.
3. We put the cuttings in water and wait about 3 weeks.

After this time, the young cuttings give roots. As soon as the long-awaited roots appear, the currants are ready to appear in the garden.

When planting, keep in mind that the bushes will grow, so maintain the required distance between each bush of about 2 m.

Important landing rules

Do you know the main secret of how to plant blackcurrants? One of the most important conditions for this event is that the root collar of the young seedling should go deep into the ground 6-9 cm below the soil level.

In this case, the bush is located at an angle of 45°.

• By observing these conditions, you will allow the young growth to quickly form a strong bush and form additional healthy shoots and a developed root system.

If a gardener needs standard material, black currants are planted without slope or depth.

Such seedlings will become rather weak plants (they cannot be protected from winds and frosts), and their life span will be limited (only 6-10 years).

But they have their undeniable advantages:

• Thanks to its compact shape, standard currants are ideal for small gardens where there is very little space.
• These species receive more sun, so their yield will be higher than that of ordinary seedlings.
• Standard varieties are less susceptible to disease, because their branches do not come into contact with the ground.
• Such crops are simpler and easier to care for.

The most suitable blackcurrant varieties for growing using the standard method are: Aist, Mechta Kyiv 3, Universitetskaya, Pamyatnaya, Sanyuta, Yubileinnaya, Monasheskaya, Premiere.

Autumn planting of black currants

1. Immediately before planting, all damaged, diseased roots of the seedlings are cut off.
2. A bucket of water is poured into the holes/trenches prepared for planting.
3. The cutting is carefully placed in the hole in an inclined position (keep an angle of 45°). At the same time, carefully straighten the roots.
4. Gradually, slowly, the young plant is covered with soil, while watering at the same time (up to 3-4 buckets of water will be needed per plant).
5. Gently compact it near the trunk, pressing the soil with the toe of the foot.
6. After planting, the soil around the bush is mulched (rotted leaves, peat, humus or compost are suitable for mulch). A mulch layer will protect the bush from moisture loss and prevent the formation of unnecessary crust on the ground.

Advice. Experienced gardeners recommend that when planting black currants (at a time when the plant is covered with soil), shake the cuttings periodically so that the soil fills the voids near the root system. It is best to plant shrubs with an assistant: one person holds the seedling, the other buries it.

After planting, the plant is trimmed, leaving only 5-10 cm from the ground level.

Such harsh pruning will delay the appearance of the first harvest by a year, but will give the shrub more strength, allowing it to form a powerful, strong bush.

Spring planting of black currants

Let us remind you that the black-eyed beauty does not tolerate spring planting well, so leave these activities for areas where winter does not indulge in a lot of snow.

1. At the very beginning of spring, seedlings are pruned short to prevent premature bud break.
2. We wait for the soil to completely thaw and plant the young plant in the garden. The best time for this is April-early May.

All activities for the preparation of landing sites and the landing itself take place exactly the same as in the autumn.

Growing boles

Unlike ordinary ones, standard plantings of black currants are done straight, without tilting.

Our task is to prevent root branches from developing. The root neck of the young growth is cleared of additional shoots and buds. Buds must be removed from the entire seedling before planting.

This procedure is carried out in the same way as the usual option. Standard varieties are planted in early August.

1. We plant a cleaned, thick summer branch in the garden and pinch off its upper zone.
2. Next year, young branches appear on the top of the plant. In August, we again pinch each fresh shoot. At the same time, we remove the remaining fresh shoots and leaves below the required length (for young standard seedlings 20-25 cm from the ground level, for two-year-old seedlings about 40 cm).
3. In the third year of development, we again pinch the tops of new branches and remove the root shoots. All shoots longer than 10 cm are also pruned. During this period, your standard seedling can already please you with the first, but still small, harvest of berries.

Subsequently, pinching is carried out every spring and summer, and at the same time all branches appearing below the established level of our trunk are removed.

After planting blackcurrants in the third year of life, our currants will produce a plentiful and rich harvest.

But, unfortunately, the fruiting period may end after 6-7 years of the crop’s life.

Young trunks in dry weather (especially in dry late spring) need watering and simultaneous mulching.

In autumn, the roots of young growth need to be protected from severe frosts. To do this, after mid-October we will mound the soil with peat or compost to a height of about 10-12 cm.

We will need to cover the area near the root with a layer of mulch of 5-6 cm.

Caring for a fragrant beauty

Watering

Blackcurrant respects moisture very much (its roots are located close to the surface and cannot provide themselves with a drink from groundwater).

If there is not enough water, the bush will slow down its growth, and the berries will become small and quickly fall off.

The autumn dry season will lead to freezing of plants (especially if the winter is harsh and snowless).

It is very important to provide the bush with drink during the following periods:

1. Time of growth of branches and formation of ovaries (end of May - beginning of June).
2. When pouring berries (June).
3. After harvesting the fruits (August-September).
4. If autumn is too dry, we water before winter (end of October).

The soil must be moistened to a depth of about 40 cm. Moisture consumption is 4-5 buckets per m² (the amount increases when watering in dry and windy weather).

For this procedure, it is necessary to dig ditches to a depth of 12-15 cm near the bush, keeping a distance of 20-30 cm from the tips of the branches.

It is better to water in the evening with warm water.

• Watering should be stopped when the currant berries begin to acquire color, otherwise the juicy berries will crack on the bushes due to waterlogging of their cell juice.

Necessary fertilizers

The black-eyed beauty does not have enough nutritional components in the soil. Fertilizing of the crop is carried out throughout the entire period of its development and fruiting.

♦ First two years of life. After planting black currants, the young plant will have enough nutrition (potassium and phosphorus) from the dressing mixture that you placed at the bottom of the planting trench.

At this time, we will feed the currants only at the beginning of the spring season with nitrogen fertilizers (50 g of urea per bush).

♦ Third anniversary. At this time, in addition to nitrogen-containing additives, currants already need organic (5-6 kg), superphosphate (40-50 g) and potassium (15-20 g) fertilizers.

♦ Fourth year of growth. Starting from this period, we will reduce the dose of urea to 20-40 g. It now needs to be applied in two stages (2/3 in early spring, the rest after the bush blooms).

In the subsequent years of life after planting black currants, the rate of nitrogen fertilizing (urea) remains the same, but the amount of other types of fertilizers depends on the quality of the soil:

• Loamy soil. For one bush, organic additives (15-20 g), superphosphate (130-150 g), potassium sulfate (35-40 g). Fertilize once every three years (in autumn).
• Peat bogs and swampy areas. In the autumn seasons, each plant is fed with superphosphate (120-150 g) and potassium sulfate (25-30 g). Currants are fertilized once every three years. In addition, every four years such land needs to be limed (400-500 g of lime per m² is added).
• Light soils (sandstones and sandstones). Feed every spring. Each bush requires organic matter (4-6 kg), superphosphates (45-50 g) and potassium sulfate (15-20 g).

♦ Liquid fertilizers. In addition to the main additives, the beauty also requires diluted ones (they are added simultaneously when watering).

As feed, you can use slurry (a bucket of manure diluted 3-4 times per bush), bird droppings (diluted 10 times, consumption: ½ bucket per bush).

They are introduced:

1. During the flowering season (May).
2. During rapid growth of shoots (June).
3. After fruit harvesting is completed, when flower buds are laid (August).

In the June-July months, foliar application of mineral fertilizers will be useful: potassium permanganate (12 g), boric acid (4 g), copper sulfate (40 g).

Each substance is dissolved separately, then the solutions are mixed and diluted in a bucket of water. They spray the plantings.

Weeding and loosening

For excellent development of currants, the soil around the plant must be kept moist and free of weeds.

Carefully loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm. Carry out such activities once every 20 days.

• You will have to do loosening less often if you mulch the soil area in the area of ​​bushes with organic matter (herbs, compost, peat). The ideal thickness of mulch is about 8 cm.

♦ Autumn. If your site is loamy and heavy, you need to dig it up 15 cm around the circumference of the bush, between plantings of black currants by 15-20 cm.

At the same time, break up frozen clods of earth for better absorption of moisture. If there is light soil, there is no need to dig it, just regularly loosen it by 10 cm.

♦ Spring. Under each bush you need to mulch the soil. Use dry grass or peat.

Some gardeners cover the ground near the bush with newspapers (this is done when the buds swell).

The newspapers are removed when the beautiful black-eyed plant begins to bloom (during this period, beneficial insects crawl up).

Then (after flowering) the paper can be returned to its original place.

Forming and trimming the bush

♦ Formative pruning of black currants. This is the most important condition for good plant development.

The first time the plant is pruned after planting. In this case, about ½ the size of each shoot is cut off, with the obligatory preservation of up to 4 developed buds on each.

These procedures continue for the next 2-3 years.

Aged, frail and thickened branches are cut out annually. You need to leave three young, strong annual shoots on them.

If currants do not produce enough root shoots, take care of the existing ones and stimulate the appearance of new ones.

To do this, remove perennial branches (even fruit-bearing ones). Hill up the bush regularly to 10-15 cm in height.

• Formative pruning is completely completed 4 years after planting black currants. At this time, the plant has provided itself with 12-15 shoots of different ages (there will be 3-4 more young one-year-old branches).

♦ Sanitary pruning. Simultaneously with formative pruning, sanitary pruning is also carried out. During the processing process, diseased, dry, and broken branches are removed.

They are cut off completely, not even leaving a stump.

♦ Anti-aging pruning. Such care is carried out for an adult fruit-bearing plant.

It is removed from mature (5-6 year old) branches. They no longer bear fruit, but only take away the strength of the currants.

It is easy to recognize such branches: they are thick at the base, with dark brown, almost black bark. Almost all of their fruit branches are dried out and dying.

• But if the old branches are in good condition, they are developed, have strong growths and large buds - the life of such shoots can be extended by a year if desired.

During the process of rejuvenating pruning, young branches (underdeveloped and having a small number of fruit-bearing buds) are also removed.

The best pruning period is early spring, before buds open (late March-early April).

But gardeners sometimes do not have time to carry out the procedures (they take a lot of time).

Therefore, it is permissible to prune currants in the fall (after harvesting the berries). Such an event can be carried out slowly, even during cold weather.

How to preserve ovaries

After planting blackcurrant and its seemingly good growth, the plant suddenly begins to shed its ovaries at the end of flowering. What's happened?

The reason is unexpected May and June frosts (this is when currants bloom and form ovaries).

• The best way to protect your blackcurrant beauties is to spray the bushes with water. Moreover, not only the plants are irrigated, but also the soil around them. You need to spray generously in the morning and evening several times.

During frosts, wet plants become covered with an ice crust, which releases heat when thawed.

This type of care for black currants saves the future harvest from destruction. During these periods, many summer residents cover currants with plastic wrap or burlap.

The ideal would be to combine covering the bushes and spraying them.

An excellent remedy is smoke. They use raspberry and strawberry leaves, last year's potato tops, straw, or straw manure.

The material is piled up in piles about 70 cm high, up to 80 cm long and wide. They are placed on the same line with a distance of 3-4 m.

• Smoke starts when the temperature drops to +1° C (when frost is predicted to occur). And the process is completed an hour after the air has been thoroughly warmed up (from 0° C).

Harvesting a fragrant harvest

Beautiful, plump, fragrant berries must begin to be picked after full ripening (all greenish tints should disappear from the color).

The blackcurrant harvest is harvested with individual berries, or even with whole tassels.

Use large trays or boxes for harvesting.

• If you needed to plant black currants for sale and the crop needs to be transported, it is better to give the berries the opportunity to ripen on the way. In this case, you need to collect them on tassels. The fruits should be dense, not completely colored (but there should be no green color).

It is best to harvest currants in the early morning (in the absence of dew) or late evening. This procedure should not be carried out immediately after rain - wait until the bushes dry out.

The uniformity of fruit ripening depends on the duration of flowering. If currants bloom for a long time, the berries will ripen at different times.

To achieve ripening in the same period, arrange more uniform and intense lighting of the currant bushes.

Currant propagation:

Currants are propagated mainly vegetatively - by dividing the bush, lignified and green cuttings, layering (arcuate, vertical, horizontal). With the seed propagation method, the offspring does not completely inherit all the qualities of the variety.

Due to the increasing spread of diseases and pests during the propagation of currants, particular importance should be given to the cultivation of healthy planting material. Procurement of cuttings and layering should be carried out only from special queen cells planted with super-elite and elite seedlings. On mother plantations, preventive measures are taken to protect plants. They are located with mandatory spatial isolation - at least 1.5-2 km from any plantings and wild currant tracts.

In the process of currant propagation, selection and testing of mother plants and seedlings for susceptibility to diseases and pests, purity and productivity is mandatory at all stages. It should be remembered that the yield of currant plantations begins with seedlings.

The simplest and most widespread method of propagating currants is the rooting of woody cuttings. They are harvested from annual shoots, basal or first order branching. The length of the cuttings is 15-20 cm, thickness is at least 0.7 cm. The cut is made with a sharp knife or pruning shears above the bud (1-1.5 cm above). Roots form both under the bud and in the internodes. The best time for harvesting and planting blackcurrant cuttings is September - early October, red - the first half of August, when the buds enter the dormant period. Varieties with a short growing season are cut first, followed by varieties with prolonged growth.

Cuttings planted in autumn can begin to form roots in early spring before buds open, using spring moisture in a timely manner. If planting is postponed until spring, then cuttings harvested in the fall provide better rooting. For safety, they are placed in boxes and covered with snow. Planted when the temperature in the soil at a depth of 10-15 cm reaches 7-9°C.

Rice. 1. Planting lignified currant cuttings: 1 - planting; 2 - rooted cuttings

Currant cuttings are planted on a flat, weed-free, wind-protected area with fertile, moist enough soil for the cuttings to penetrate freely. Before planting, water the soil. They are planted in an ordinary way - single-line according to the pattern 70x10-15 cm or double-line according to the pattern 70x20x5-10 cm. When harvesting, the cuttings are sorted by thickness into 2-3 groups and planted separately and at different distances, which ensures a more even planting material. For better rooting, cuttings are planted obliquely and so that there is one bud above the soil surface, and a second one near the surface (Fig. 1); After planting, the soil around the cuttings is compacted. Then water and be sure to mulch with humus in a layer of 4-5 cm. Mulching promotes better rooting, maintains soil moisture and protects cuttings planted in the fall from bulging in the spring. Subsequently, they carry out loosening, weeding and fertilizing, regular watering, preventing the soil from drying out. Black currants have a high ability to root, red currants root somewhat worse, but when planted in August, the cuttings root well.

With proper care, cuttings grow into good annuals that can be planted in a permanent location.

Cuttings root better if they are kept in water for 1-2 days or in a 0.01% heteroauxin solution for 24 hours, dipping the lower ends of the cuttings into the solution. The yield of standard seedlings increases (144% compared to the control) when rooting cuttings using plastic film as mulch.

In order to increase the reproduction rate, currants are also propagated by single-bud woody cuttings. Rooting is carried out in cold nurseries in early spring (April). In 30-40 days, a well-developed root system is formed. Such plants are transplanted for growing according to the 60x10-15 cm scheme. In the spring they are cut off, leaving 2-3 buds. By autumn, seedlings of standard size grow. With well-organized care, the rooting rate of single-bud cuttings is at least 82-86%, and the survival rate of growing plants is 74-80%.

Propagation by single-bud woody cuttings determines the possibility of obtaining seedlings that are practically free from pests (glasswort, goldenrod and especially bud mite - a single bud affected by a mite does not germinate). Very high rooting rate (up to 100%) is obtained by planting single-bud cuttings, stored at a temperature of 3.3°C and planted for rooting in a substrate of sphagnum moss and coarse sand (1:1).

Black, red and golden currants propagate well from green cuttings. Cuttings are called green because the growing green part of the shoot with leaves is used for rooting.

To root cuttings, prepare a special substrate, which should retain water well and at the same time

Rice. 2. One-year-old seedling grown from a green cutting

provide drainage and good aeration. More often, clean river sand of medium coarseness or a mixture of such sand with peat (1:1 or 1:2) is used. The substrate is poured over the peat-humus soil with a layer of 2.5-3 cm. The greatest fibrous roots are formed in plants obtained by using straw cutting instead of turf-humus soil. Green cuttings are the most effective and accelerated way of propagating currants and obtaining planting material that is healthy from bud mites. The latter dies in greenhouse conditions. In addition, seedlings grown from green cuttings always have a stronger fibrous root system (Fig. 2). But this method requires additional equipment. In a number of farms and experimental institutions in the Non-Chernozem Zone, green cuttings are carried out in greenhouses with automatic fogging units. For this purpose, cold nurseries and greenhouses with frames covered with film and equipped with a simple irrigation device are also used. Green cuttings can be planted for rooting in a permanent place in the nursery, using portable shelter designs with a water spray device to create artificial fog, which eliminates their replanting for growing.

Unlike woody cuttings, which are harvested at the onset of the dormant period, green cuttings should be harvested during the shoot growth phase. Herbaceous cuttings cut early rot in greenhouses, and those cut late root worse. The tops of the current growth are cut into cuttings at a time when the shoot tissue begins to coarse, but lignification has not yet occurred. Such a shoot remains flexible and breaks only when sharply bent. Depending on the region and variety, green cuttings are carried out from June to August. The faster the shoots finish growing, the sooner they become woody and lose their ability to take root. In the Non-Chernozem zone, red currants are first cut. The varieties that finish growing early are cut first, and the late varieties are the last. You can take cuttings from one bush several times in the order of their readiness. They are harvested in the morning and kept moist in a shaded place until planting.

The length of the cut cutting is 7.5-12.5 cm. Before planting, the lower cut is renewed, making it oblique under the bud, the blades of the lower leaves are removed. The largest upper leaves are shortened by half. All leaves cannot be removed, as their presence promotes root formation.

For cuttings, you can use not only the tops of the shoots, but also the parts that follow them, although their rooting rate, as a rule, is significantly lower than that of the apical ones.

To increase the reproduction rate of currants, shortened cuttings with one internode and two buds are used. Cuttings with long internodes root worse than those with short ones.

The rooting of cuttings increases if, before planting, they are kept in a solution of indolylbutyric acid (25-50 mg/l of water). Knitted 50-100 pcs. The cuttings are lowered with their lower ends 2-3 cm into the solution for 12-24 hours at a temperature of 18-20°C in the shade, after which they are immediately planted according to the 8x5 or 5x5 cm pattern (400 pcs./m2). After rooting, cuttings are planted to a depth of 1.5-2.5 cm, the soil around the cuttings is compacted so that there are no voids.

The optimal illumination for rooting green cuttings is 1/3 of solar radiation on a clear day, or 10-15 thousand lux. An increase in solar radiation has a depressing effect on photosynthesis and delays root formation. In these cases, shading is necessary. For quick and good rooting, it is necessary to maintain normal turgor of green cuttings for a long time.

Before mass root formation begins in cuttings, it is necessary to maintain complete moisture saturation of both the substrate and the air, and after mass rooting, waterlogging becomes dangerous.

Roots appear depending on the temperature and humidity of the soil and air on the 7-14th day. Abundant roots

Rice. 3. Technique for cutting and planting green cuttings with two-year-old wood: 1 - two-year-old branch (the lines show where the cuttings are cut), 2 - cut green cuttings, ready for planting; 3 - method and depth of planting; 4 - one-year-old seedling.

are formed in the 4th week, after which the cuttings are accustomed to external conditions by ventilation and temporary removal of covers. Carry out preventive spraying against diseases with appropriate preparations.

In autumn, rooted blackcurrant cuttings are dug up and planted for growing. Red currants are best planted in spring. After planting, the plants are watered and mulched. A week later, after the seedlings have taken root, their tops are pinched. With good care, seedlings grow in one year and are suitable for planting in a permanent place.

Good results were obtained by rooting green cuttings without substrate in the holes of a wooden grid placed on sand. With this method, 5 crop rotations can be carried out during the growing season (from May 24 to July 10). The rooting rate of cuttings, depending on the variety, is 95-100%. The first roots appeared after 9 days. The method of rooting green cuttings without a substrate is simple and highly effective. It requires less costs for growing planting material. When transplanted into a school for growing, many rooted cuttings die. Reducing losses is possible by using peat briquettes for rooting and subsequent planting in the field. Rooting of green cuttings is carried out in protected soil with 4-5 times rotation (cutting) during the growing season. Transplantation of rooted cuttings into open ground is carried out in the early stages - on the 4-5th day after the start of root formation, which allows you to obtain 1.5-2.5 thousand rooted cuttings from 1 m2.

Green cuttings with part of last year's wood ("stand"), or combined cuttings, can be rooted directly in open ground. This method is simpler and cheaper. The technology for growing planting material from combined cuttings is that for cuttings they use shoots that grew last year (annual or annual) with the current year's growths formed on it. The length of the latter should reach 5-7 cm. This happens in the 2nd-3rd decade of May or early June, i.e. a month earlier than the green cuttings.

In the mother liquor, such annual branches are cut off at the base, leaving stumps with 2-3 buds. The cut branches are immediately transported to the planting site, all green growths are cut out with a piece of the stem supporting them (last year's wood), no more than 4 cm long. Then they are sorted according to the length of the green growth and planted in pre-prepared areas along a marker in moist, loose soil. All leaves on green shoots are preserved, removing the lower ones if they interfere. When planting, green growths should be directed vertically with their base buried 3-4 cm into the soil (Fig. 3). Watering after planting should be plentiful to wet the soil to the planting depth, including the location of the “stand.” Before roots form, abundant watering is necessary daily, preferably in the evening, after rooting - every other day, then less often - as needed. The planting pattern can be different: single-line, 2-3-line ribbons, striped.

The rooting area should be warm and well protected from winds.

Propagation of currants by horizontal layering

The technique for propagating currants by horizontal layering is as follows. In the spring, before the plants begin to flower, grooves 5 cm deep are dug around the approved bushes in a radial direction. Strong zero shoots are shortened by 1/2-1/3 of the length, bent, laid in the grooves, giving them a horizontal position, and pinned to the ground with wooden or metal hooks. 5-7 shoots are removed from each bush. Trimming the tops promotes the germination of all buds on the shoots and the formation of strong annual growths. The shoots laid in the grooves are not covered with earth, but are left temporarily open. When vertically growing shoots on bent branches reach a height of 10-15 cm, the grooves are filled with loose and moist soil mixed with humus or well-decomposed low-lying peat, leaving only the growing herbaceous tops on the surface. As the shoots grow, hilling is repeated, carried out 2-3 times per season. By autumn, the cuttings take root well. They are dug up, separated from the mother plant with pruning shears, and cut into pieces according to the number of shoots that have grown.

Propagation of currants by dividing the bush.

This method is used in case of an acute shortage of planting material or when transferring plantings to a new location. To propagate, a bush is dug up, all the old branches inside it are cut out, without touching the young ones with strong growths, and the bush is divided into parts along the stems that have their own roots. In this case, the old roots are completely removed, and the young ones are trimmed. The remaining branches are also trimmed, leaving stumps 20 cm high.

Blackcurrant is a source of useful microelements; almost every gardener grows it in the country. The variety of shrub varieties makes it possible to choose the appropriate crop variety for a particular climate and region.

Blackcurrant: description

The bush is a low perennial plant. It develops both in domestic and wild conditions. Found on sandy soils. Most varieties of the crop grow in Europe and North America.

The berries of the perennial shrub were considered Russian fruits for many years. Information indicates that the crop began to be grown on the territory of Ancient Rus' back in the 11th century. The bush was planted in many areas and areas were decorated with it. Today it is impossible to walk into a garden and not see a spreading berry crop in it.

The value of the bush is its black, tasty, aromatic fruits. A distinctive feature is that black currant is considered the ancestor of many other berry bushes. The plant does not require special care; the shrub produces an excellent harvest already in the 2nd year after planting in open soil.

The fruits of the bush are rich in vitamin C, so it is better to eat them fresh, but many gardeners freeze the harvest or make various preserves from it. The berries make incredibly tasty and healthy jam, fillings for sweets, compotes, and alcoholic drinks.

The leaves of the bush are suitable for pickles. Greens are suitable for making salads. Currant leaves reduce the amount of glucose in the blood; teas are made from them. The berries of the crop are eaten as a preventive measure against scurvy, as well as against low blood clotting and heavy bleeding.

Representatives of traditional medicine advise eating fresh or canned berries for gastritis and other stomach ailments. The dried greens of the bush are used as a strong antibiotic. Infusions from leaves have a positive effect on the treatment of rheumatism, urolithiasis and cystitis.

It is worth clarifying that the bush is an excellent cosmetic product. It is used to create soap, and the juice is rubbed into the nail plate.

You should not eat berries if you have thrombophlebitis.

Characteristics of the bush:

• The roots are branched and lie 0.2-0.4 m deep.
• The bush consists of a large number of branches of different ages located at different levels. It is thanks to this that the plant bears berries for more than 13 years.
• The largest harvest can be obtained in the 6th year after planting.
• The buds of the plant swell in spring already at a temperature of about +5 degrees Celsius.
• It begins to bloom at +12 degrees. Because of this, the bush often suffers from spring colds.
• Many varieties do not require pollination and are also cold-resistant. But to improve the taste of the berries, other types of crops should be planted nearby.
• The greens of the plant are aromatic and are often added to tea.
• The harvest is rich in vitamins.

Planting black currants

Planting and growing this shrub is not a difficult undertaking, but in order for the currants to grow productive, it is necessary to adhere to some recommendations.

When and how to plant black currants can be seen in the video below:

When to plant black currants?

It can be planted both in autumn and spring. But it is better to opt for the autumn season of the year. Seedlings should be planted at the end of September or early October. Before the winter cold, the plant manages to take root in the soil, the roots are fully adapted. Thanks to this, the currant bush will survive the winter frosts well and will begin to develop with renewed vigor in the spring.

You can also plant it in the spring - in April. But this option is less favorable for the plant. In the spring season of the year, it is better to plant currants in places where there is practically no snow in winter, otherwise the roots will begin to freeze. If the cuttings were purchased in the fall and cannot be planted, then they are dug in and planted in the spring (before the buds open).

The shoots must be trimmed before planting.

Planting black currants in spring

The shrub is considered one of the first plants to bloom very early. Spring planting should be done as early as possible.

The crop is easier to propagate by division or cuttings. The first option is simpler - shoots with roots are separated from the main plant. The soil is prepared in advance, the grass is removed, the soil is fed with humus (about 5 kg per hole). If there is no humus available, then you can add ammonium nitrate.

The root is deepened by 80 mm. The distance between berry plants is about 1-1.5 m. The planted seedlings are watered. As for propagating the crop in the spring by cuttings, in this case the branches are bent and sprinkled with soil. In autumn, they are separated and planted.

Planting black currants in autumn

The main requirement for autumn planting is that the plant should be planted 14 days before the first winter cold.

Algorithm for planting crops in autumn:

1. Pit size: 0.4x0.4 m. Depth: 0.3 m. Dig a hole and fill it less than half with nutritious soil.
2. For one planting hole, take humus, compost (peat) 1-2 buckets, 150 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium sulfate.
3. Before planting, inspect the root system, remove all broken and dried shoots. There should be two buds left on the shoot. Plant the seedlings at an angle so that the branches are arranged in the form of a fan. Water the hole at the rate of 1 bucket per bush.
4. In order for the seedlings to take root, the soil around them should be filled with humus or peat. Alternatively, you can use dry sand.
5. If there was no precipitation in autumn, water the plants more abundantly.
6. Give blackcurrants a separate area in the garden. There should be a distance of 3 m between the rows of bushes. If the variety is compact, then the distance can be halved.
7. To a greater extent, the crop varieties are self-pollinating, but it is better to choose a couple of mutually pollinating species.

This berry bush loves moist soil. An excellent option is a moist area. It can be flat or even. The area must be protected from drafts. But when choosing a location, you also need to adhere to measures - places with close groundwater are not suitable for growing black currants.

The soil must be nutritious. The culture grows and develops well on medium and heavy loamy soils. If there is a large amount of carbonates in the ground, look for another area to plant the bush.

To prepare the site, you should plan the area - remove all the depressions, depressions and hills. The area is plowed to a depth of 0.3 m. Weed rhizomes are dangerous for the crop, you should get rid of them, and then dig up the ground again.

If possible, any vegetables should be planted in the ground for a year before planting the shrub. During the final digging, 1 kg of manure, 5 kg of superphosphate and 3 kg of potash fertilizers are added (calculated per 100 sq. m). The depressions are prepared 14 days before planting the cuttings; during this period of time the soil will completely settle and be ready.

Blackcurrant care

Caring for black currants depends on the period of the year, age, and also on the specific variety of berry bush.

in spring

Spring care is divided into three stages:

1. Early period (last days of March - mid-April). By this time, the snow should have already melted or partially left the bed, but the currant buds have not had time to swell. Use nitrogen as a fertilizer, as it helps the bush quickly grow green mass.
   Sprinkle purchased mixtures for bushes onto the soil. They are poured onto damp soil and lightly crushed with soil on top. To prevent pests from attacking, collect and destroy all round buds. Collect organic residues left over from the fall and place them in the humus mixture. Some gardeners pour boiling water over plants to awaken the bush.
2. Middle period (last days of April - first days of May). The buds are already swollen, but spring frosts are still possible. If you did not add nitrogen earlier, do it now. Use urea (2 tablespoons per 20 liters of water) or ammonium nitrate (4 tablespoons per 20 liters of water). After application, sprinkle the area around the root trunk with soil.
   Add humus to the plants, or you can use compost. This period is also suitable for planting new seedlings. Treat old plants with iron sulfate (3-5%). You can use other products, for example, “Fitoverm” or “Kleschevit”.
3. Late period (all of May). The shrub needs starch, so use dried potato peelings as fertilizer. Bury them in holes made in areas above which the ends of the branches are located. You can replace potato starch with corn starch. Foliar feeding with purchased mixtures brings excellent results. We recommend reading our article about. Water blackcurrants regularly, especially during drought.

Weeds grow quickly, so loosen the soil regularly, only carefully so that the roots are not damaged. Constantly inspect the culture. The moth pest is especially active; a weak solution of nicotine sulfate helps get rid of it.

In summer

Summer care is divided into three stages:

1. Before harvest. Sprinkle wood ash under the root. Water abundantly. During drought, increase the amount of water. At this time, caterpillars appear. Manual collection can be used, but it will not bring significant results. Spray the plants with special products, for example “Iskra”. Cut off all dry branches.
2. Berry picking. Sprinkle wood ash under each plant and dig it up along with the soil. Trim the ends of shoots affected by powdery mildew. Plants are often attacked by moth. Pick ripe fruits, do not let them become overripe.
3. After the harvest. You can use superphosphate for feeding. In early August, 2 tbsp is enough. l. for 20 liters of water, after 14 days a double dose is required. Treat plants with Fitoverm, as it protects the bush from bud mites.

in autumn

In the autumn period of the year, caring for black currants is as follows:

1. Feed the plant with superphosphate or ready-made mixtures. How and with what to fertilize currants in the autumn, read.
2. As soon as the bush has completely shed its leaves, be sure to powder the soil with wood ash, add compost or new nutrient soil.
3. Remove any large swollen buds.
4. Cut off infected branches and collect fallen leaves.
5. Plant new cuttings at the end of September, but do everything carefully so that the roots of the plant are not damaged.
6. At the beginning of October, transplant the cuttings into open ground.
7. Do water-recharging irrigation.

Once the plant has lost all its foliage, tie the bushes together with string, place boards under some branches and make one large frame of wood. If this is not done, then in winter the plant will be crushed by snow, and in the spring it will not have most of its branches.

Processing black currants

The culture loves care and maintenance, so do not deny the shrub this. Proper and regular care will help you get a rich harvest of tasty and healthy berries.

Watering

The crop loves moisture; if there is not enough water, the bush stops growing and the berries become smaller. Without the autumn moisture charge, currants will not be able to survive the winter. The root system is not too deep (from 0.1 to 0.6 m).

Watering is necessary, but it should not be done too often. You can water 4-6 times in 1 season. If the summer is too dry, then you need to water the plant once a week. The water requirement is 50 liters per plant.

Top dressing

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in early spring; young bushes need 50 g of urea. When the bush reaches the 4th year of life, these feedings are reduced. In the autumn season of the year, approximately 5 kg of organic fertilizers, for example, bird droppings, compost or manure, are added to the plant. You should also add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate.

The frequency of fertilizing directly depends on the composition of the soil; the poorer it is, the more fertilizers need to be applied. If the soil on the site is nutritious and you fertilized it in advance before planting the cuttings, then the plant does not need large quantities of useful additional microelements.

Pruning in spring and autumn

It is carried out only if it was not carried out in the fall. All frozen shoots are cut off, weak branches are destroyed.

At the end of the summer season, the tops of branches powdered with a layer of powdery mildew are cut off and weak shoots are destroyed. They will not bring a harvest, they will only thicken the plant.

At the end of August, blackcurrant branches are pinched - this action helps the tree to ripen and reduce the risk of powdery mildew. It is better to destroy the branches lying on the ground; fungal spores or pest larvae may have already settled on them.

In autumn, pruning is not much different from spring - all old and thickening branches are removed, it is advisable to reduce the length of the tops of the shoots. Always burn leaves and branches, as they can carry a variety of diseases.

The following are subject to pruning:

• broken branches;
• diseased branches;
• black shoots;
• old branches;
• tops of zero shoots;
• branches without branches.

For pruning, use garden shears or a knife. This procedure will help the plant lose “unnecessary load” and increase the amount of harvest.

Preparing for winter

It is very important to properly prepare the bush for the coming winter. The first step is to loosen the soil, then treat the bush and feed it. Urea is great for this; you can take a small box of matches with granules and dilute them in 10 liters of water. A sprayer is used to apply the mixture. After some time, you can feed the soil and apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Loosening is a mandatory procedure that helps the crop better survive the cold. However, you need to be careful not to damage the root system of the plant. You can use old newspapers, straw or peat as a mulch layer. If a very severe winter is approaching, then you can cover the bush with special agrofibre or other covering material.

Propagation of black currant

The berry bush reproduces in various ways. All these methods have pros and cons. If you approach this event responsibly, then propagating the bush will be an easy task.

Cuttings

Propagation of the crop using lignified cuttings begins in the autumn season of the year:

1. Prepare the area for planting: add humus or compost (5 g per 1 sq. m), superphosphate (35 g), potassium magnesium (18 g). Dig everything up.
2. Strong and healthy shoots are suitable as cuttings; when planting in the fall, divide them into sections 0.2 m long. The top cut should be 20 mm above the bud, the bottom 10 mm below.
3. Any part can be used as a branch for planting, except the bottom, where the buds are too small.
4. Plant the cuttings so that 2 buds remain above the soil.
5. After planting, compact the soil, cover the area with a layer of mulch and water. Mulch prevents the soil from drying out, protects the plant from pests and protects the soil from overheating.

The cuttings can be cut in autumn or early spring. Branches cut in the autumn are tied into bunches and placed on the ground, covered with 20 mm of foliage on top. In the spring, they are taken out, cut into pieces and planted in thawed ground.

If the gardener did not have time to cut off the shoot in time, then you can try to propagate black currants by cuttings with rosettes of foliage. Not always, but sometimes this method works and the plant takes root successfully. The branches are constantly watered; it is important to monitor the amount of moisture at the time of bud break. As soon as the length of the branches has reached 40 mm, the bushes are fertilized with slurry (10 liters per 1 sq. m). Repeat feeding once every 14 days.

An experienced gardener in his video shows how to propagate currants from cuttings:

By layering

Blackcurrant layering can be arcuate or horizontal.

• Reproduction by arc layering. Under a strong branch, form a depression of 0.1 m. Bend the branch and fix it, bring the end out. Give the shoots a vertical position and tie them to a driven support. Fill the hole with nutritious soil. During the summer, fertilize with slurry, water and destroy weeds.
• Reproduction by horizontal layering. On the plant you should choose 1 or 2 branches of one or three years of age. Branches that bend are suitable. Dig a ditch 0.1 m deep under each branch. Shorten it by a quarter and secure it, sprinkle with 30 mm of loose soil. Feed the layering with slurry (10 liters per 1 sq. m).
  With quality care, the length of the shoot will reach 60 cm by autumn, and it will already have its own root system. In the second half of September, the branch is cut, divided by the number of shoots that have formed on it, and replanted. Strong seedlings are suitable for independent development.

Watch a video about currant propagation by layering:

Dividing the bush

This propagation technique is used in rare cases, for example, during the redevelopment of the territory, when the crop is transferred to a new area.

Reproduction by dividing the bush is carried out as follows:

1. Dig up the plants and divide them into equal parts, each should have 2-3 branches with a root system.
2. Shorten the branches by a quarter.
3. When planting, deepen the branches; the soil layer above the roots should be about 60 mm.

The best varieties of blackcurrant

The culture is rich in varieties. They are divided into large, sweet, early, late, etc. Each summer resident will be able to choose the appropriate variety for the climate and region in which he lives.

Large varieties

Large black currants are famous for their fruit diameter of about 1.5-1.7 cm. Some berries reach large sizes.

The largest variety is considered to be bred in Siberia under the name Yadrenaya. The berries reach 7-8 g, the first harvest can be obtained in early summer. The only negative is that the variety is not suitable for growing in the south; the berries become smaller and acquire a sour taste. The plant needs constant reproduction.

Other large varieties:

• Dobrynya.
• Comfort.
• Sanyuta.
• The beauty of Lvov.
• Chereshnevaya.
• Anniversary Digging.

Sweet varieties

This type of crop is considered sugar. The fruits contain a huge amount of sweetness, pectin microelements, minerals and vitamins.

The best sweet varieties:

• Bagheera. The amount of sugar is 10.8%. The berries are not small and are suitable for creating various preserves. The harvest retains its presentation during transportation.
• Green haze. The amount of sugar is 10.2%, sometimes reaching 12%. The fruit size is medium to large. The fruits are used to make jelly and jam.
• Nina. The amount of sugar is 11%. The harvest is large, the bushes are of medium size. The fruits are nutritious and healthy.
• An excellent pupil. The amount of sugar is 11.1%. Charcoal fruits with sourness. The variety cannot boast of strong immunity; it often gets sick and is attacked by insects.
• Triton. The amount of sugar is 10.6%. The variety is intended for cultivation in the northern regions.

Early varieties

The most popular early varieties are:

• Litvinovskaya. Universal purpose, the plant grows tall. The fruit weighs about 3-4 g, with quality care it can reach 5 g. You can get about 2 kg of harvest from one plant. Litvinovskaya grows well in the Moscow region. The main disadvantage is that it does not tolerate heat.
• Gift of Smolyaninova. You can harvest 3 kg of berries from one plant. The plants are small. It has strong immunity and does not require pollinators. The variety performs well in the middle zone. Disadvantages: low yield and cold resistance.
• Selechenskaya 2. The plant reaches 2 m in height. The fruits are about 4 g, with proper care they reach 5 g. From one bush you can harvest about 7 kg of harvest. It is better to grow the variety in Western Siberia, Altai and Yakutia. The downside is that aphids attack in the summer.
• Summer resident. The bush is small. The fruits are about 4 g, from one plant you can get 5 kg of harvest. It has proven itself well in the Moscow region. Cons: impossible to transport, sensitive to frost, crumbles.

Mid-season varieties

The best representative of this group is Dobrynya. The plant needs good agricultural technology. Medium-sized bushes with a compact crown require support during the fruiting season, otherwise they will begin to fall to the ground.

It performs well even in compacted plantings. The weight of one berry is about 6 g. You can harvest 2 kg of harvest from one plant. It has excellent cold resistance and high transportability.

It boasts strong immunity to powdery mildew and bud mites. It is better to grow in Western Siberia and the Central region. Disadvantages - long ripening period, poorly propagated by cuttings, needs fertile soil.

Late varieties

A representative of this group is the Lazy Tree variety. The fruit weighs 2 g; from one plant you can harvest about 1 kg. Self-pollination is low, so it needs pollinators.

The plant has excellent cold resistance, strong immunity to blight and anthracnose. Grows well in the Volga region, Moscow region and central Russia. Disadvantages - berries of different sizes on one plant, the yield is inconsistent, and is susceptible to powdery mildew.

Diseases and pests of black currant

Like any berry crop, black currants can suffer from various diseases. The plant is also often attacked by insect pests.

Diseases/pests	Symptoms	What to do?
Currant bud mite	The buds swell quickly and subsequently do not bloom.	Treat with a suspension of colloidal sulfur 150 g per 20 liters of water.
Great currant aphid	Leaves wrinkle and curl.	Treat with anabasine sulfate solution (0.2%).
Currant leaf gall midge	The formation of wrinkled, disfigured leaves.	Treat with chlorophos (40 g per 20 liters of water) with the addition of karbofos (60 g).
Common spider mite	The leaves turn brown and the plant dries out completely.	Treat with infusion of onion or sulfur.
Currant disease	Currant flowers become of unusual shape and color and do not bear fruit.	Use special chemicals.
Anthracnose	Brown spots form on the leaves, they fall off, and the currant does not bear fruit.	Treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture (1%).

Black currant is one of the best representatives of berry bushes. The plant is famous for its juicy, healthy and tasty berries; even a novice gardener can grow a bush on his own plot.

City: Permian

Publications: 78 Magnificent blackcurrant harvest thanks to proper planting and care

Currants - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds open; in this case, the soil may not have time to warm up sufficiently and the plant will die.

For currants, choose a sunny place, protected from the wind with well-drained, non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5). Fertile, light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the soil, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 square meter. m.

Currants are propagated using cuttings or by dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Growing black currants will be successful if you choose two-year-old seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long; they take root best. Let's look at how to plant currants step by step.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, weed rhizomes are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the area is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm. The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planted in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the hole is filled with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currants

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of root buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, the bush will form as a single-stem bush.

Planting currants is completed by watering 5 liters of water per hole and another 5 liters per circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm deep - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

Having completed the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. Cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, watered with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with film or a plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates intensive plant growth.

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called planting or simply breeding. It is performed after fruiting has completed: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Blackcurrant: cultivation and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to ensure proper care of black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currants

Before the buds appear, all old, withered or diseased branches are cut back to a healthy stem, and the wounds are covered with garden varnish. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After fertilizing, the soil is dug up and watered.

At the time of formation of the ovary, until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. Do this in the evening, using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

To improve soil moisture resistance, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspaper. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Caring for currants in summer

In the first half of June, organic fertilizing should be done: up to 15 kg of humus per bush, or liquid fertilizing (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water per week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of the berries, and is done once every 5 days.

Caring for currants in June also includes pinching the tops of young stems into 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of pinching is also postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During fruit ripening, foliar feeding is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of iron sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately and then mix together in a 10 liter bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

The berries must be harvested individually and not picked in bunches. This way there is less chance of damaging the plant. Watering and fertilizing are completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Caring for currant bushes in autumn

Having completed the harvest, starting from mid-August and throughout September, watering is done once a week, loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to add organic matter (4-6 kg of bird droppings), or feed with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when applying fertilizer, add 200 g of wood ash. Afterwards, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting next year.

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots of different years of life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered with hot water at a temperature of plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of bushes to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: ​​Alirin-B, Gamair, Forecast, Topaz, Glycoladine - against rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of bud mites on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of blackcurrants includes preparation for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and fallen leaves are removed.

After the first frost, the bush is pulled upward in a spiral with a rope, clamping it at the top with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls, a snow cushion 10 cm high is made at the base of the bush, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Bottom line

Growing currants on the plot will only bring pleasure, since the crop is not demanding and bears excellent fruit. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant to always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then black currants, which are cared for according to all the rules, will reward you with a magnificent harvest and large berries.