How to properly plant lilies and care for them. Lilies - planting and care in open ground in summer How to plant lilies in the garden

Growing lilies is a fun activity! Even the most inexperienced gardener can plant and grow lilies in your garden or even on the balcony of a city apartment. Lilies are grown in the garden much more often than roses. This is explained simply - the lily in the garden is a less labor-intensive crop, unlike roses, does not require winter shelter, and is less damaged by pests. Lilies are very responsive to good care and thank their owner with abundant flowering.

Lilies will decorate the garden from June to August; you just need to select varieties with different flowering periods.

When growing lilies in the garden, you need to be very careful when choosing a location for future plantings.

How to plant lilies in the garden.

Since lilies are grown in one place for 3-4 years, it is very important to plant them correctly. For planting lilies, choose bright places. It is better if it is an open place so that the lilies are well ventilated. Lilies are suitable for loose, water- and breathable fertile soils. The planting site is well dug up, the rhizomes of perennial weeds are selected, and if necessary, leaf soil, pine litter, peat, and coarse river sand are added. This is usually done on heavy clay soils.

Do not use manure or humus when planting lilies!

If the plot is low, and you really want to plant lilies in your garden, make raised beds and raise their level by 15-20 cm, because these magnificent flowers do not tolerate stagnant water at all.

The bulbs are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. Lilies need to be planted deep, 3 or 4 times the height of the bulb. Deep planting of bulbs is a guarantee that the plants will “hold onto the ground more tightly”; subsequently, supra-bulb roots and children will develop on the underground part of the lily stem. On clay soils, lilies are planted more shallowly than on sandy soils. So, for example, if the height of the bulb is 5 cm, then the planting depth will be 15 cm.

IMPORTANT! When planting, it is a good idea to place the lily bulb in a sand capsule - as experience shows, lilies with such planting are less damaged by fungal diseases, and when dug up, the bulbs will be clean, white, and not grimy.

How to plant a lily in a sand capsule.

Pour a handful of sand into the bottom of the hole. We shorten the roots by 1/3 of the length. We place a lily bulb on the resulting sand hill, straighten the roots so that they do not bend upward and fill it with sand again. We cover the sprout especially carefully. It turns out that the bulb is isolated from the ground on all sides by a layer of sand.

You can plant lilies in the garden in spring, summer and autumn.

How to plant lilies in spring.

in spring Bulbs should be planted as early as possible, as soon as soil conditions allow. Since lily bulbs purchased in the spring are stored in a household refrigerator until planting, they quickly emerge from dormancy, begin to grow, and by the time of planting the lily bulb already has quite tall sprouts. It is very important not to break them when planting, otherwise the bulb will not bloom this season.

If the sprout is less than 8 cm from the moment of planting, then the bulb is placed vertically in the hole, but if the sprouts are long - 10-15 cm, then the lily bulb needs to be planted on its side - it is placed in the groove at an angle. The sand capsule is covered with a layer of soil on top.

For early spring planting, when the ground is moist, the bulbs do not need to be watered after planting. If favorable planting dates have been missed and the soil is dry, then water the lily plantings and mulch the top with peat or pine litter.

How to plant lilies in summer.

You can plant lily bulbs in the summer only if the plant is dug up with a clod of earth or purchased blooming in a pot. See how to plant lilies from a pot into the ground.

How to plant lilies in the fall.

It is still preferable to plant lilies in the fall. The time for autumn planting of lilies is more extended in time - they can be planted from the second half of August until the end of September. Soil preparation and direct planting are carried out in the same way as for spring planting of lilies. Nowadays, many people order lily bulbs on the Internet. Quite often there are situations when the delivery takes a very long time and the bulbs arrive at their owner at the end of October. How to be in this case? Should I plant lilies or leave them until spring? If the ground is not frozen, then we plant the lilies in the ground and cover the bed with a thick layer of dry foliage on top. You can put some kind of snow-retaining material on top - dry cut tree branches, for example.

If the ground is frozen and it is not possible to plant lilies, then you can preserve the lilies until spring in the refrigerator at a temperature of minus 2 degrees, or by planting them in pots and lowering them into the cellar. In the spring, as soon as the soil becomes available for cultivation, the pots with lilies are taken out of the cellar and planted in a permanent place.

In the spring, hot days come for summer residents, full of work and worries. And all in order to enjoy a good harvest in summer and autumn. But, as they say, not by bread alone... Beauty around us is also necessary, and we create it ourselves with the help of flowers. Just think how many different colors there are! And they all decorate our lives, fill us with colors and create a good mood. This is worth the effort.

Lilies can be called the queen of the garden. Such delicate, fragile flowers cannot but delight, they delight the eye, they evoke an invariable desire to touch them. The variety of colors and shades allows them to blend harmoniously into almost any landscape and decorate any flower bed. White, yellow, orange, red - they are ideal for bouquets, refreshing the interior of the apartment, bringing warmth and joy to the souls of its inhabitants.

I will tell you in this article how to plant a beauty on your property, how to care for it so that it will certainly please you. Look at the lilies that grew in my garden, they really made us happy for a long time and became the decoration of my small plot.

The very first question that arises for any gardener, whether he is a beginner or an experienced one who has not dealt with a specific species, is when is the best time to plant. For lilies, as for many other flowers, planting is important in spring or autumn. From practice, planting in the fall is a much more profitable enterprise in the future, since bulbs can be bought at good discounts by the end of the season, but at the beginning of the season the price is maximum. If you are not limited in funds, then, of course, you should please yourself with the new inhabitants of the flowerbed in the spring.

So, lilies are bulbous perennials of the Liliaceae family. This is where, perhaps, everything common to different species ends. Requirements for lighting and planting location are very individual. As experienced gardeners say: it is easier to choose a species for the specific conditions of a flower bed than to create conditions for a specific species. Therefore, if you have already chosen where to plant, study the following features: soil, lighting, protection from the wind, and then select a suitable flower. For example, it is believed that these flowers require a lighted area, however, oriental and martagon hybrids will suffer in the sun; their place is in partial shade. Preferences are usually described on the label of store-bought plants, but with breeders you just need to pay attention to the natural growing conditions or ask directly about it.

The next thing you need to decide on before the planned planting in the ground is the planting material. The bulb must be externally healthy, without mechanical damage. Elastic and without signs of rotting. And then you should pay attention to the condition of the sprout or its absence. In winter, lilies hibernate, so if you buy absolutely healthy planting material, then there should be no sprouts on the bulb during the period from the end of flowering (late summer-autumn) to April-May. The sprout in this case is an indicator of a failed regime. This does not mean that the flower will necessarily die, but it does mean that it will be necessary to wait until it returns to normal, and therefore there may not be a planned summer flowering.

There is a place, there is material... good luck! What to remember when planting in spring:

you can plant a plant only when you are sure that there will be no night frosts,
when the ground warms up to a depth sufficient for planting,
when there are conditions for timely watering.

For autumn planting:

the soil must not be frozen,
the desired variety should have already flowered naturally.
The planting of flowering plants should also be checked against the lunar calendar, then the efforts will definitely not be in vain. Unfavorable days in April and May are 5 and 19. Favorable days in April: 6-8, 20-26, 29, 30. In May: 6-8, 14-17, 23, 31.

Preparing the site and soil for planting

As already noted, the place for the lily should be selected based on the requirements of the species, which can be found on the packaging. It should be free of drafts, but with normal air circulation.

The neighborhood is also important. These delicate flowers go well with peonies, delphinium, alyssum and astilbe. Fern and juniper are no less suitable neighbors, but the combination with phlox may be too bright for the eye. But nevertheless, if you like a bright environment, you can plant them together.

They may also seem capricious in their requirements for the soil. However, these requirements are quite logical:

nutritional value
neutrality
looseness
good drainage

If the soil is too dense, the bulb may rot, and if the soil is too light, sandy, there simply won’t be enough moisture for the plant to develop normally.

If your site basically does not meet the requirements, then preparation will be necessary. What you can do:

To enrich the soil with nutrients, you can use compost or humus when digging; superphosphate and potassium sulfate (100g/50g per square meter); complex fertilizer such as Nitroammofoski.
Dense soil can be diluted with river sand and peat (1 bucket of these substances per square meter).
Too light and sandy soil can be corrected with peat (1 bucket per square meter).
Low acidity is corrected with wood ash or dolomite flour (1 cup / 200 grams per square meter).

Of course, it is worth adding that no living creatures take out all kinds of garbage in the neighborhood, be it people or green flowerbed inhabitants. Stones, rhizomes and sticks should be removed. And dig up the area for planting.

The first most important piece of advice is – YOU WILL DEFINITELY SUCCEED IT, DON’T BE AFRAID. A positive attitude will help you concentrate and get great results.

As for the landing itself:

Carefully study the requirements of the species, carefully select a place, prepare it as described in the previous paragraph.
Dig planting holes. There is a sufficient distance of 20-30 centimeters between the holes. But you need to deepen the bulb to three times its height. If you have a bulb 4 centimeters high, then the hole should be 12.
If you are planting a tall variety, then install a support for the future plant next to the hole so that it is not broken by the wind. When installing a support after the fact, there is a possibility of damaging the bulb itself and thus destroying the plant.
When digging a hole, it is worth putting a drainage layer (expanded clay, brick, etc.) on the bottom, fertile soil on top, and sand as the last layer.
The onion is placed flat on the sand, bottom down.
After planting, it is necessary to water the hole generously. If the soil settles, it is necessary to fill it up to the previous level.

All these tips seem complicated only at first; in practice, it all takes very little time, but the result will be gorgeous.

Video on how to plant lilies in open ground in spring

Caring for lilies in spring and preparing for winter

Care is not inherently difficult. The main thing is not to let them rot, that is, to avoid excess moisture on the bulb.

As for spring, first of all, the bulbs need to be opened in time so that under the warm layer they do not sprout ahead of time. And when they sprout, be sure to feed them with nitrogen fertilizer and loosen them. For example, saltpeter or Nitroammophoska. You can use rotted manure.

Important: fresh manure should not be used under any circumstances. It can burn.

Intermediate feeding is carried out after the emergence of seedlings before the formation of buds. This fertilizing can be done with natural compost fertilizer.

When preparing for wintering for these purposes, the entire above-ground part of the lilies is carefully twisted out. You can’t just cut it so that the cutting remains. The dried trunk turns into a tube through which rain and snow pour directly onto the bulb. The funnel formed from the stem must be tightly covered with earth. If winters in your region are very cold, the plants should be covered with leaves or mulch.

How to feed lilies for lush flowering in the garden

With proper wintering and timely spring care, nothing other than timely feeding will be required. I'll tell you how and what to feed lilies.

The first important feeding is necessary during the budding period, that is, as soon as you see the tiny buds, it’s time. It is thanks to her that the buds receive sufficient nutrition and grow large and strong. And subsequently large and bright flowers appear from them. Mineral fertilizers should be added to the soil. If you are still new to gardening, I recommend using ready-made mineral fertilizers and diluting them according to the label. If you decide to try diluting the fertilizer yourself, then take a tablespoon of saltpeter or nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is poured onto the plants at the rate of 1 liter per bush.

It is important to remember that a whole liter will only be needed for an adult lush bush. If you have a young plant, then the dose should be reduced by half.

You can use fermented mullein solution. For 10 liters of water – 1 liter of solution. Fertilizer is used in the same way: 1 liter per adult root. Lilies also respond well to feeding with wood ash. However, it is better to carry out such fertilizing not often and in small quantities.

Important: before fertilizing, the plants must be watered and loosened so as not to burn the roots and bulbs.

The frequency of feeding is from 1 to 3 times a month. Of course, if you don’t feed them, they will still bloom and won’t go anywhere, but the quality of such flowering may not please you. Plants are like children, they love care and attention.

Protecting lilies from diseases and pests

Like any garden resident, lilies are exposed to various dangers. In this part I will tell you what the most common diseases are and how to deal with them.

But, as you know, it is easier to prevent than to deal with the consequences, so professionals advise in the spring to water the soil with this solution: mix well 1 liter of warm water, 1 tablespoon of soda, 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate, 1 tablespoon of ammonia, and then thin pour in a stream into 9 liters of water. This measure will help prevent diseases.

The most common diseases of lilies are:

Gray rot. This fungal disease begins to manifest itself if microventilation is impaired. Moisture stagnates, the evaporation of which is prevented by the lack of sufficient light and heat, the presence of weeds in the flowerbed, and thickening of plantings. The sore can be recognized by characteristic spots on the base of the stem and leaves, which become covered with mold in damp weather. Serious measures are needed to combat rot. The affected parts of the plant are removed as much as possible, and the bushes are sprayed with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or foundation (approximately 25 grams per 10 liters of water). In autumn, in preparation for wintering, the affected stems are removed and burned, since the pathogen overwinters on the above-ground parts of plants. To prevent reappearance in the spring, it is necessary to treat the plants with copper oxychloride (25 grams per 5 liters) with the addition of shampoo or soap.
Fusarium. This insidious disease eats the victim from the root. As a rule, fungal spores are either in the soil or get there with infected planting material. Externally, the presence of the disease can be determined by yellowed and dried lower leaves. Soil disease can be prevented only by following the norms of watering and fertilizing. But it’s up to the gardener to prevent the fungus from getting from the planting material. All suspicious scales from the bulb are removed before planting. And the bulb itself is soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
Mosaic. Refers to viral diseases. Externally recognized by white spots on the leaves and curvature of the stems and buds. Sick plants must be removed from the site. However, preventative measures will help protect the flowers. The disease is transmitted by sucking insects, so timely control of them will help protect the flowerbed. In addition, the infection can be spread through the sap of an infected plant, which is why the pruning shears are constantly disinfected when pruning.

The most dangerous pests for lilies include:

Red lily beetle. This problem is increasingly spreading with the import of infected planting material. Already in April, it is necessary to carefully examine the plants and take measures to eradicate the problem or take preventive measures. Externally, the lily beetle resembles a fireman's beetle, and preventive measures include its mechanical elimination. If time is lost and larvae appear, then the problem is solved by treating the plants with products against the Colorado potato beetle. For example, an actara, a confidor or a sonnet.
Aphids. The danger of this pest is not only in eating plants, but also in transmitting viral diseases. Treatment can be done with intra-vir (1t per 10 liters of water) or fufanon (15 ml per 10 liters of water).
Mice. These rodents destroy plant bulbs. Traps with bait placed in landing areas are suitable for mice.

Propagation of lilies by seeds and scales

Every year new varieties of these beautiful flowers appear. And their prices also skyrocket every year. So what about those who absolutely want a new variety and a bigger one? And it's very simple. You need to purchase just one bulb and try propagation by scales.

As practice has shown, a capricious plant is not at all such when trying to propagate it. To do this, the scales were carefully separated from the bulb and planted in a mixture of peat and vermiculite. Almost every scale formed children, which could already be planted in the ground. Don't be afraid to experiment with this method.

Propagation by seeds is one of the most productive methods. In addition, the seeds do not transfer diseases from the mother plant. Seeds need to be fresh, as over time they lose their viability. To collect them, select a healthy stem, which is cut before the onset of frost. And then left to dry on paper.

The collected material can be planted directly into the ground or into seedlings.

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs (video)

Another method of reproduction is by bulbs. Airy bulbs form between the stem and leaves; they are collected at the end of flowering. They are planted in pots and then planted in the ground in the spring. For clarity, watch the video; it tells in great detail about this method of propagating lilies.

How to propagate lilies after flowering using cuttings from a bouquet

And the last way to propagate is by cuttings or leaves. This way you can get a new root from your own lilies or from those presented in a bouquet. Although from the latter the probability of rooting of the cuttings is comparatively lower. But why not try? Moreover, there is little trick in this process. So, to obtain planting material you need:

Choose a strong, healthy plant. Or use bouquet as quickly as possible.
Using sharp scissors, cut medium large leaves from the stem.
Plant the leaves in a greenhouse with nutritious soil.
Wait for rooting. As a rule, out of 5 leaves from a bouquet, 1-2 take root, and from a garden plant, 3-4. This depends on the fact that flowers for bouquets are grown using hormones and stimulants, which cannot but affect their reproduction.
The rooted leaf should be planted in an individual greenhouse and wait for the formation of new leaves from the tiny bulb.

Healthy and strong flowers are the pride of a gardener. But this is not the result of a series of accidents, it is the result of rather painstaking work. I hope the tips in the article will help you. Let your flowers delight you and your guests.

Anyone can grow lilies, even if they are far from gardening. Few people know, but they can be successfully planted in the spring. To do this, you just need to choose the bulbs of the desired variety, plant them in the prepared soil and enjoy the wonderful fragrant flowers in due time. Caring for lilies is quite simple and does not require much time. To facilitate this process, you need to familiarize yourself with the accumulated experience and apply it to your flower bed.

Advantages and disadvantages

Novice flower growers who decide to decorate their flower beds with lilies are misled by the information that planting can take place both in spring and autumn. In the fall, the bulbs are planted so that they take root before the onset of cold weather. Planting in spring is slightly different and has its own characteristics. There may be the following prerequisites for postponing planting work to spring:

the reason for this may be simple short-sightedness, not everyone prepares seeds on time, the idea of purchasing lilies may be spontaneous;
Weather conditions, such as early frosts or rains, can also interfere with autumn planting.

In any case, if this is the case, there is no need to abandon spring planting and wait for the next season. In addition, this option has obvious advantages, namely:

not all bulbs planted in the fall will necessarily take root and sprout in the spring - they may freeze or suffer from rot or pests, which can happen despite good protection and insulation of the flowerbed; in artificially created conditions with low temperature, darkness and humidity (for example, in a refrigerator or cellar), the bulbs are preserved better and their condition can be monitored;
There are varieties of lilies for which wintering in open ground is contraindicated; especially when it comes to areas with harsh climates;
there is no need to waste time and effort on insulating the beds, and then, when the weather gets warmer, on clearing them.

Along with this, difficulties may arise. If the bulb does not develop enough, the flowering may be weak, and in some cases there will be no buds at all. For the same reason, the number of children is decreasing. All these consequences can be worsened if the summer was cold.

Planting work should be carried out at the end of April or beginning of May, when the soil is quite warm and there are no severe frosts. In the south you can start earlier, and in the northern and Siberian regions - later.

Selection of planting material

The most common way to propagate lilies is by bulbs. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to their type. Lilies are as follows:

annuals - the bulb loses all its properties at the end of the season and produces a new one (daughter);
perennial - the bulb is replenished with new scales every season, in five seasons they almost double in size; In addition, they are overgrown with tiny baby onions - they will have to be grown for at least two years before they get flowers.

When choosing, it is important to pay attention to the size, density and appearance of the bulb. It should be proportionately heavy and hard. When pressing, the surface should not dent. Cuts, cracks, unpleasant odors, escaping liquid and any questionable stains on the surface should serve as an excuse to refuse the purchase. A good condition of the bottom with living roots is the key to the health of the future plant. Particular attention should be paid to the sprout; if the bulbs are purchased in advance, there should be no signs of germination, otherwise it will not be possible to meet the deadline and you will have to grow the flower at home.

For spring planting, you need to purchase bulbs in late summer or early autumn. It is better to spend some effort on storage during the winter than to buy low-quality material. Sometimes in the spring, unscrupulous suppliers may slip the bulbs after forcing them - if they are planted in the same season, you will no longer get flowers.

Specialist gardening stores are not a guarantee, but they inspire more confidence. In addition, you can immediately purchase everything you need for planting and care, as well as get advice.

It is no secret that the size and proportions of the flower will depend on the quality of the planting material. The best option is to prepare it yourself. The preparation of the bulbs takes place in several stages, namely:

first, the nest, that is, the mother bulb and the babies, must be carefully removed; usually the children separate well on their own, but if this does not happen, it is better to leave them on the adult bulb to ripen;
then all the bulbs are cleared of soil, old dead scales and roots are removed and allowed to dry (but not under the sun);
the finished planting material is laid out and labeled - ventilated bags or boxes are suitable for this (it is preferable to lay it out so that the bulbs do not touch); they are stored in a cool, dark place with sufficient humidity to prevent them from drying out; this process must be controlled and rotten ones must be removed in a timely manner;
before planting, the prepared material is taken out and inspected for damage - be sure to treat it with a weak solution of manganese or fungicides; Do not neglect this procedure - this way you can prevent some diseases.

Bulbs with sprouts are suitable for spring planting. It is impossible to save them until autumn. This often happens due to non-compliance with the terms or storage conditions of the seed. If there are more than two months left until May and the sprouts are already quite large, it is easier to plant the bulbs in pots or containers. For planting at home, the containers must have fairly high sides. Sprouted lilies are planted later to ensure that the delicate sprouts are not damaged by natural disturbances. They are removed from the containers with all possible care and lowered into suitable holes.

How to prepare the soil?

First you need to choose a place for the future flower bed. For lilies, a flat area where moisture does not accumulate is suitable. Despite the fact that this type of flower loves sunlight, plantings should be fairly well protected from the wind.

The fact is that the stem and leaves are delicate and easily bend and break. You can use a fence or bushes for protection. At the same time, the flower bed should not be in the shade, so plantings or buildings should be located at a sufficient distance.

After planting sites have been identified, the condition of the soil on them should be assessed. It is believed that in order to grow lilies, it must be fairly light and well-drained. But at the same time, it is important to maintain a balance, because in sandy soil there will not be enough moisture for the plant to develop, and in heavy clay soil it will accumulate unnecessarily and can lead to rotting. In addition, excess clay interferes with oxygen exchange with the roots, and this can negatively affect the growth of the flower. Therefore, it is necessary to rely on the condition of the soil, as well as on previous planting experience in this place. If necessary, peat and humus can be added to the sandy soil mixture, and the clay soil mixture can be diluted with a mixture of peat and sand.

Important! The desired consistency is determined by eye as follows: the earth squeezed in your hand should remain crumbly. If it forms a dense lump, then it contains a lot of clay components.

If we are talking about a place where water constantly accumulates or groundwater is close, a drainage layer should be poured onto the bottom of the planting holes. It can be expanded clay, pebbles and even broken bricks or slate. Most varieties of lilies prefer slightly acidic soil. To bring this indicator to the desired level, sifted ash, crushed eggshells or slaked lime are added to the soil. Highly alkaline soil can be adjusted with manure, superphosphate or ammonium sulfate.

Ideally, if a fairly large-scale planting is planned and the location is determined in advance, then you should start preparing the soil in the previous year. It should be dug up and humus added (but not fresh). In addition, green manure can be sown at the site of the future flower bed, which will improve the structure of the soil, enrich it with nitrogen and prevent the growth of weeds. The main work will begin 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs, when the soil is still moist. The selected area must be cleared of leaves, dead wood, extraneous shoots, leveled and the necessary components distributed over it - sand, peat or humus. Then they dig it all up well (to a depth of at least 20 cm). Mineral fertilizers should be limited at this stage, since their excess can lead to excessive growth of greenery and a decrease in the number of buds.

Important! You can decorate with lilies even areas that at first glance are unsuitable for planting, for example, rocky ones. In this case, you should dig holes or deep holes in it and fill them with suitable soil, which will have to be updated every two or three seasons. In order for flowers to develop well with this arrangement, constant monitoring and good care are necessary.

Disembarkation scheme

After the bulbs have been prepared, they can be safely planted in the ground. To do this, it is better to prepare individual dimples or long holes. If the soil is too dry, they can be slightly moistened. A drainage layer, at least made of sand, should be poured onto the bottom of each. Fertilizer is added directly to the holes. Then the onions are placed in them strictly vertically, bottom down, and covered with earth on top.

The density and density of planting may vary. Lilies are almost never planted alone; in groups they look more organic. A flower bed with frequently planted flowers looks better, but in this case the perennials will have to be replanted more often as they grow larger and the children grow. It is better to make the distance between the bulbs the same (from 5 to 25 cm), especially when planting linearly.

The spaces between the rows should be sufficient not only for the development of the plant, but also for the ease of caring for it.

Another aspect that raises many questions is the planting depth. You can find completely different opinions on this matter. It depends on the following factors:

variety – low-growing ones are buried by 10–12 cm, medium-height lilies – by 15 cm, tall ones – by 20–25 cm; There are certain varieties with low-lying leaves - they just need to be lightly sprinkled with soil;
the size of the bulb - if it is small, then the depth can be reduced;
selected area - in loose, soft soil, the holes should be deeper, this method is more reliable and retains moisture better, especially if we are talking about arid regions, but this may slightly delay the timing of germination and flowering.

Naturally, the landing should not be spontaneous. There are many ideas for designing flower beds, but they are all subject to the following principles:

for lilies, it is important to choose a good background - it can be fern, juniper or any other shrub of this kind, while tall varieties do not look at all against the background of low and sparse plantings - they will stand out excessively; on a rounded flower garden they are usually located in the central part;
low-growing lilies will fit perfectly into any flower bed, and are also suitable for decorating paths and highlighting areas in a personal plot;
To make the flower area always look elegant, you can plant flowers next to them that bloom at different times, for example, phlox, peonies and gladioli;
in addition to the size of the plant and the shape of the flower, you should carefully select the color scheme - flowers can contrast with others or emphasize similar shades;
when allocating space for different types of flowers, it is necessary to ensure that the faded ones are at least partially covered by other plants;
Different varieties of lilies are planted together with great care, since they may have different conditions of detention, and this will also prevent the spread of diseases from the most vulnerable varieties.

Aftercare

Lilies cannot be called capricious flowers. But they still need proper care. Of course, under favorable conditions, perennials will sprout and bloom on their own, even if watering is limited to rain. But the flowers will be small and will gradually degenerate. In addition, without proper care, the plant becomes most vulnerable to various diseases and pests.

Lilies should be watered as needed. During the hot period - every morning and evening. The stream of water should be directed at the root so that it does not touch the greenery or flowers. In addition, the flower beds should be weeded periodically and the rows should be carefully loosened to ensure good air exchange. Lilies are cut at an angle, leaving the stem high enough so that the bulb can develop further.

After the end of the growing season, all stems and leaves are removed. Cold-resistant perennials do not need to be dug up, just covered with mulch for the winter.

Fertilizers should be applied carefully and as needed. Usually, only sprouted lilies are the most vulnerable. To make them stronger, you can use any products intended specifically for this group of flowers, as well as humus, saltpeter, and urea. Then support will be needed during the period of bud formation and flowering.

It often happens that even when all conditions are met, flowers grow poorly or do not look good enough. Let's look at what can harm lilies.

Infections (rot, penicillosis, rust). The causative agents of such diseases can be contained in both soil and water. They can be prevented by pre-treating the planting material. An already established disease should be combated with copper sulfate; the affected leaves are sprayed with fungicides.
Viral diseases (rosette, mosaic, etc.). Most often they are carried by pests or insects. In this case, the modified plants are removed along with the bulbs.
Unfavourable conditions. Often the leaves may turn yellow due to increased acidity of the soil. Sometimes a seemingly healthy bulb may not sprout, or for unknown reasons the plant’s stems will grow together. Usually all this goes away the next year or when the properties of the soil, light, and aeration change.

The answers to the question of when to plant lilies in the spring are as brilliant as they are absolutely useless. Listen to a man who has planted several hundred thousand lily bulbs over a dozen seasons! If, when answering the question “When to plant lily tubers,” you are given recommendations on dates and soil and air temperatures, look at this advisor in silence and move away. In the matter of spring planting lilies, this has no practical significance, and I will explain why.

When storing lily bulbs in suitable conditions, the timing of planting lilies in the spring does not matter at all.

I repeat, in our nursery for ten years we have planted a huge number of lily bulbs. Two or three hundred thousand, possibly more. They planted at the end of April, at the end of May, at the end of June, once even at the beginning of July. I assure you, this does not affect practically anything. Even during flowering periods. If you plant the bulbs two months later, then flowering will occur a week or two later - the lilies will go through their cycle faster, they have their own biological clock and day length sensors. Therefore, choose the time that is convenient for you when to plant lilies in the spring. And if you have other plants in critical condition or a week-long tour package comes up, don’t bother, do important things. The bulbs will wait without any noticeable harm to themselves. There are really important points when planting lilies, but the red date of the calendar has nothing to do with them. The key phrase is “suitable storage conditions”

Suitable and unsuitable storage conditions for lily bulbs.

Methods for storing lilies at home is the topic of a separate article. But in short, the suitable conditions are those under which the bulb does not begin to grow. A temperature range from +2 to -8C is suitable. What? Marvanna and Olsanna said everything would freeze? Ignore - the whole of Holland is stored in such conditions, for up to two years, if necessary. But the refrigerator is just a bad option - its temperature +5+8C exactly corresponds to the temperature at which the lilies uncontrollably begin to grow.

If the lily has already sprouted, it is better to plant it as early as possible.

The sooner the germinating bulb is in the ground, the more nutrition and strength it will retain for growth and flowering in the first year. And here, too, calendar dates and temperatures do not matter. If the ground allows you to dig, pick up a scoop and don’t think about when is the best time to plant a lily in the ground. Even if “the snow is still white in the fields” (c) Save energy and time, planting elongated lilies is a small pleasure. Even if the soil is not quite ready yet. This can be corrected later with a thick mulching layer of humus, compost, or horse sawdust. Lilies love this very much and will respond to care.

What timing of planting lilies should you plan in your gardening schedule?

As already said, the lily plant is plastic and indestructible. If you plan planting and other important things in the garden, then in the spring lilies can be planted at any time, starting from the soil thawing, and this will be the best option. But if you don’t have time to sow carrots, re-graft an apple tree, or urgently take care of roots in poor condition, lily bulbs can wait.

Planting lilies with bulbs in the spring is most often carried out for oriental aromatic hybrids and varieties that do not tolerate cold temperatures. You need to plant according to a certain pattern, otherwise the risk of harming the planting material increases - the lilies will not bloom or will even rot in the ground.

The main advantage of planting bulbs in spring is the absence of freezing. With the onset of warmth, ideal conditions are created for the survival of planting material; lilies form roots well and take root in the soil.

The optimal time for planting lilies in the spring in the regions of the middle zone is the end of April. The soil has time to warm up, stable night temperatures are established and frosts are excluded. Before planting in open ground, the bulbs can be stored in the refrigerator, and not buried and insulated, as during autumn work.

There is no point in delaying planting until late spring - at the end of May, lilies simply will not be able to take root properly. They are weakened and more often susceptible to disease, which inhibits flowering and negatively affects its quality.

Important: If you are planting varieties for propagation, preference should be given to autumn planting, since during this period lilies produce the largest number of children. In spring, daughter bulbs are practically not formed.

Preparing for spring planting

To successfully plant lilies in the spring, you need to properly prepare not only the bulbs themselves, but also the area.

Quality of planting material

You can get beautiful and abundantly flowering plants only from healthy bulbs. The planting material should be free of rot, mold, scales of different colors and textures, and the roots should not be dried out.

When storing bulbs at home, the following rules must be observed:

Place the dug up lilies on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator and inspect them regularly;
If the planting material begins to sprout, it is recommended to plant it in containers with soil (a mixture of peat and garden soil) and then transfer it to a flower bed;

For damaged bulbs, soaking in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (up to 10 g per bucket of water) or Fundazol is recommended.

Important: Additional insulation will help increase survival rate. It is enough to simply cover the plantings with plastic bottles with the top cut off - this will create greenhouse conditions.

Site selection and preparation

All representatives of the Liliaceae family prefer loose, well-drained soils without stagnant water. In light sandy soil, the bulbs will dry out; in clay soil, they will suffer from impaired air exchange and rot. Thus, site preparation should be carried out based on the natural characteristics of the land:

Sandy soil should be additionally enriched with peat (1 bucket per 1 m2);
Add looseness to clayey soil using peat and sand (1 bucket per m2);
Reduce acidic pH using wood ash (1 cup per 1 m2) or dolomite flour (2-3 cups per 1 m2).

Additional application of rotted compost or humus will increase soil fertility, which will have a positive effect on the growth of bulbs and further flowering. You can also use mineral fertilizers: potassium sulfate or superphosphate. The dosage is 50 g and 100 g for the entire area, respectively.

The site preparation process itself is carried out in several stages.

The top layer of soil is carefully dug up to a depth of 40 cm, and all weeds are removed.
The flowerbed is drained - you can use sand, crushed stone, gravel, river pebbles.
If other garden crops were grown in the selected flower bed last season, the soil is diluted with fresh nutrient substrate and peat.
Mineral and organic fertilizers are applied, acidity is reduced to the desired level (ideally 6.5 units).
Constant soil moisture is maintained through watering and irrigation; if desired, you can additionally mulch the area with a layer of peat, rotted sawdust or compost.

Important: In order for lilies to bloom well, the planting site must be sunny, protected from drafts and winds.

How to plant lilies: features of gardening work

When planting lilies, you need to take into account a simple rule - the depth of embedding in the ground should be equal to three times the height of the bulb itself. It is also advisable to put other recommendations into practice:

At the bottom of the planting hole, drainage is required, covered with a cushion of fertile soil;
The optimal distance between the bulbs is 20-40 cm, depending on the height of the variety. In this case, the root system develops normally;
To protect against sudden frosts, the following sealing is used - the looser and lighter the soil, the deeper it is worth placing the planting material;
To ensure rapid rooting, lilies are watered well, adding soil if they shrink.

To make the flower bed look impressive during the flowering of lilies, group plantings of 3-4 bulbs are allowed at a distance of 10-12 cm or 15-18 cm for small-flowered and large-flowered varieties, respectively.

After planting the lilies in the ground, the holes are filled with fertile soil and regularly moistened at the root as the soil dries out. It is worth focusing on the condition of the soil and weather conditions - with the onset of drought, watering will be required more frequently than during the rainy season.

Lilies in the open ground: care after planting

For high-quality flowering of lilies, it is necessary to observe not only the nuances of planting, but also not to forget about further care - if they grow in waterlogged or dry soil, you are unlikely to see buds. Mulch will provide better moisture retention, but timely watering should also be taken as a rule.

Use mineral fertilizers as fertilizers and no fresh organic matter - such “nutrition” provokes fungal diseases. The following dosage is recommended:

Wood ash – 1 cup per 1 m2 of planting;
Nitroammofoska – 50 g per 1 bucket of water;
Ammonium nitrate - 1 tablespoon per 1 m 3;
Superphosphate - 40-50 g per 10 liters.

To prevent diseases, the soil is spilled with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%) in May and July.

Lilies should be cut diagonally for a bouquet or after flowering - this way rainwater will not accumulate. Leave most of the stem - the presence of green mass will have a positive effect on the growth of the bulbs.