How can you decorate the inside of a timber house? How to cover the outside of a timber house: beautiful protection for wooden walls

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Self finishing timber house outside and inside

Wooden houses have always been, are, and apparently will remain for a long time perhaps the most popular buildings among private developers. Log house it is beautiful, but it is quite expensive, so most owners prefer a house made of timber. In this article I will tell you how to finish a timber house from the inside and outside, and this material is designed for those who are going to decorate the house with their own hands.

Why finish a timber house at all and when can you start work?

Most ordinary people, far from the intricacies of construction, do not understand why a wooden house might need exterior and interior decoration. After all, wood itself is a beautiful, self-sufficient material and all that can be done with it is just varnish or paint.

They are partly right, but only if we are talking about the so-called laminated veneer lumber. The construction material really very beautiful and comfortable. Such beams are glued together from several layers of well-dried and impregnated protective compounds wood

In addition, they have grooves (profiles) cut into them, which allow you to assemble the house like a construction set; by the way, step-by-step instructions are included with such kits. As a result, the owners receive a good-quality house without large cracks or distortions.

But the price of such a “constructor”, to put it mildly, is “biting” and therefore many people, instead of laminated veneer lumber, use ordinary, and not always well-dried, lumber. A ordinary timber, I’ll tell you honestly, it only looks good on an advertising stand in a store, as soon as you put it into the coveted eco-friendly housing, it appearance It's unlikely to suit you.

Although even structures assembled from laminated veneer lumber, despite their attractive appearance, often need finishing. In order for the house to be warm, you need to either buy very thick and expensive beams, or additionally insulate the building. And here the warm finishing of the façade of a log house comes to the rescue.

We've sorted out the reasons, now let's talk about when you can start finishing work. As you know, any wooden structure shrinks over time.

If you bought a ready-made “construction set” made of laminated veneer lumber, then this indicator is minimal. In this case, the overall shrinkage will continue for about 3 years, and finishing can begin in six months, maximum a year.

Monolithic, well-dried beams with cut grooves will not shrink much more, but still finishing should not begin before a year later. And in this case, such a house will need to be generously “flavored” various kinds protective impregnations.

The worst situation is with a simple, even beam, which at the time of construction has natural humidity. Such buildings take at least 5 to 7 years to settle. As for the start of finishing work, many craftsmen advise starting it after a year, although I always recommend letting such a house sit for at least a year and a half, or better yet, 2 years.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wood you are going to build your home from, immediately after construction the box must be covered with a roof and be sure to be treated with protective impregnations, so that while shrinkage occurs the wood does not begin to deteriorate.

Existing types of finishing of a timber house

By by and large To decorate a log house, all the same materials are used that are used for cladding a brick, block or any other structure. But they need to be used selectively, because the external and internal cladding of wooden structures have their own specifics.

How to decorate a timber house
Types of cladding	Characteristics
Plaster	One of the most durable cladding methods, but in this case it is extremely important that the shrinkage processes in the house are completed, otherwise any movements of the base can cause cracks and even peeling. Plaster is more suitable for older houses.
Siding	Siding panels can be plastic, metal, cement and wood. Depending on the material, the service life of such finishing ranges from 15 to 50 years. Siding has always been considered an external cladding option; I personally have not seen it installed from the inside.
Facade facing brick	Everything here is clear from the name. If the brick is of high quality, then such cladding will last for at least 50 years. As a rule, between wooden and brick wall insulation is installed. The only limitation may be the foundation; such cladding requires a wide, permanent structure.
Natural or artificial stone	Can be used both inside and outside. Although in most cases stone finishing wooden buildings from the outside it is limited only by the plinth. Plus, natural stone has a solid mass and requires the construction of an appropriate foundation.
Different types of lining	Lining is a universal material; it can be used everywhere. Modern planks have a tongue-and-groove connection and are installed quite simply. In our case, finishing with false timber is best suited; in fact, this cladding is one of the types of lining; in some sources it may be called a block house; for a timber house this is the best option.
Varnishing or painting	This type of wood processing can also be considered universal. But, as you understand, we are not talking about insulation here, so varnishing or painting is more often used as an interior decoration, although in the case of wooden lining such processing can also be performed on the outside.
Tile	In this case, tiles are more relevant for interior cladding of services in the house. From the outside, it can only be used to decorate the basement and porch.
Drywall	Drywall is convenient facing material, but it can only be used for interior work.

Facade cladding

Naturally, the first thing that interests home craftsmen is how to decorate the outside of a log house. Since our priority is to install the cladding with our own hands, then it is better to forget about such things as brick, plaster and natural stone right away; without experience you are unlikely to cope with such work.

All we have left is varnishing and ventilated façade technology. In this case, ventilated facade technology should be understood as the installation of siding and all types of lining. It’s not for nothing that I combined all this; the fact is that the instructions in all these cases are similar.

Before you begin finishing any wooden structure, you should once again caulk all the cracks both outside and inside the house. First, hemp or jute is pushed into the joint, and the gap is closed from above with a special sealant. By the way, this sealant was created specifically for these purposes and no other sealant will fit here.

Ventilated facade technology

In my deep conviction, for beginning craftsmen, a ventilated facade is, if not the only, then certainly one of the most acceptable options for finishing a wooden house.

This type of façade is called ventilated because a gap is left between the finishing cladding and the base, and insulation can fit into this gap. But first things first.

• Since in any case the walls of the house themselves will not be visible, there is no need to clean, sand and level them; it is enough to simply caulk and seal the cracks between them. True, some masters insist on such processing, but I believe that this is unnecessary. But protective treatment in this case is mandatory, and there is no need to skimp on impregnations;
• There is nothing complicated in such processing, just buy the composition for biological protection wood (antiseptic) and fire protection composition (fire retardant), take a paint roller or wide brush and apply everything in layers, while allowing each layer to dry.
  Ideally, all protective compounds should be applied before the construction of the house begins, so that the timber is protected over the entire area, but if for some reason this was not done or you are finishing an old house, then you can also impregnate the finished structure;

It is better to take professional impregnations from comprehensive protection, now the price for them is reasonable, homemade liquids are folk recipes are no longer relevant, plus the quality of homemade products is an order of magnitude lower.

• When the impregnation has dried, it is attached to the wooden wall. vapor barrier membrane. In general, it is pressed against the sheathing strips, but for me it’s easier to shoot it with a stapler first, so you can do without helpers. And don’t forget, steam moves from the room to the street; if you fill the membrane incorrectly, condensation will form under it (such a fabric always has marks indicating the vapor-permeable side);
• Next you will need to lay the sheathing on the wall. If on block houses most often the sheathing is made from metal UD and CD profiles, then for wooden walls It is better to use wooden blocks, they are much easier to work with. The thickness of such a bar must be at least 40 mm, and the width is selected according to the thickness of the insulation;

• The top cut of the sheathing should be in the same plane. Even if it seems to you that your walls are smooth, it is better to be safe. The first 2 outer bars are attached to the wall, then 2 - 3 cords are pulled between them and the remaining bars of the sheathing are placed along these cords.
  If the next plank protrudes beyond the cord, then it needs to be corrected with a plane, and when it does not reach the cord, a wedge is placed. The planks themselves are screwed to the wall with long self-tapping screws;
• As for the step between the planks, it is considered the thicker and stronger finishing, the wider you can take the step, the maximum is 70 cm. But personally, under any material, I install the sheathing in increments of half a meter or along the width of the insulation;

• Siding panels, as a rule, are attached to a vertical sheathing, but under the lining the sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the planks. The only exception is diagonal laying lining, it is attached to a vertical sheathing. Although I don’t advise you to undertake diagonal installation, firstly, there is 30% more waste, and secondly, this requires experience;
• As insulation for wooden structures usually mineral wool is used. The fact is that wood must breathe and it is undesirable to clog it with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Of course, you can take any cotton wool, but soft glass wool and the like will cake within 2 to 3 years, so it’s better to pay a little more and install dense mineral wool slabs. Nowadays, basalt wool slabs have the highest quality;
• The thickness of cotton insulation for the middle zone of our great and mighty homeland varies around 100 mm. Naturally, the further north the region is, the thicker the insulation needs to be;

When cutting cotton slabs, make the width 20 - 30 mm larger than the distance between the sheathing guides. This way your insulation will fit tightly, without gaps, between the bars.

• Cotton wool cannot be left unprotected, it is afraid of humidity, so we attach the so-called wind protection on top, in fact it is the same vapor barrier;
• The wind protection is fixed to the guides with a counter-lattice, but for convenience it is better to attach it first with a stapler;
• The counter-lattice strips provide the same gap, plus it is on them that the finishing cladding. For lining, I usually use 30x40 mm bars, there is no point in taking smaller ones, they will split from nails, but for a heavy block house or siding under a counter-lattice, it is better to take 50x50 mm bars;

• Nowadays, any type of lining is installed using clamps, these are small plates with a protruding tongue. The tongue clings to the edge of the groove, and the plate is nailed or screwed to the counter-lattice;
• The siding is fixed with screws with wide heads. The panels have special fastening holes, so the self-tapping screw must be driven clearly into the center of the hole and not tightened all the way, the panel on one side should hang on the screws, and the lower part clings to the groove of the previous panel.

Rules for wood varnishing

The technique of applying varnish and painting is practically no different. Initially, you will need to thoroughly sand the surface. If the laminated veneer lumber is already well processed, then you will have to tinker with the regular one.

You start processing with coarse sandpaper and gradually work your way up to fine-grained sandpaper. With such volumes, it is very difficult to do this manually, so it is better to get a grinder.

By the way, before varnishing or painting, the wood will also need to be treated with protective impregnations.

If your plans include changing the color, then the surface is treated with stain. Next, let the wood dry and apply the first coat of varnish. After it dries, no matter how well you sand the timber, the pile will inevitably rise on it and the surface will become rough.

To remove lint, use fine sandpaper. Moreover, there is no need to sand particularly hard; the lint is removed with a few light movements, after which the dust should be wiped off with a damp rag.

From experience I can say that one finishing layer of varnish is not enough, there should be at least 3 such layers, although in order to achieve a perfectly varnished surface, sometimes you have to apply up to 5 - 7 layers of varnish.

After sanding, do not delay the application of varnish. In order for the wood to look decent and the varnish to adhere well, it must be applied within 3 to 4 days.

Regarding the type of varnish, I will say this. Now many people recommend acrylic varnishes on a water-dispersed basis, it is believed that the wood under them breathes, they are of course high quality, but they are quite expensive.

Personally, I prefer to use yacht varnish (urethane-alkyd), it is durable and withstands all the vagaries of the weather. Now the price of urethane-alkyd varnishes for exterior use starts at about 400 rubles per liter jar.

Decorating the house from the inside

It is impossible to answer briefly the question of how to decorate the inside of a timber house; it all depends on what exactly you are going to cover. Plus, the type of room plays a big role; you must admit, the decoration in the living room and in the bathroom are significantly different.

Floor and ceiling cladding

Cladding the floor and ceiling in a house made of timber are two adjacent directions, because the ceiling, in fact, is either an interfloor ceiling or a floor attic space. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them separately.

The floor itself in a wooden house can be based on floor joists or installed directly on monolithic iron concrete slab, while the difference in finishing technology is small, but it still exists.

Massive wooden joists are a good basis for the design. Naturally, in order for the floor to be warm, it will need to be insulated. There is a small nuance here.

If it is better to insulate the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool slabs, then foam plastic is more suitable for the floor and interfloor ceilings. You can, of course, buy extruded polystyrene foam, but I think that in this particular case it will be more suitable regular foam PSB-S25, the effect is the same, but this foam costs at least 2 times less. I usually buy foam boards 50 mm thick.

Let's start with arranging the floor on suspended logs. After the logs have been treated with protective impregnations, you need to build a subfloor in their lower part. There are several methods here, I will tell you about the method that I use myself.

First, on the sides of the lower cut of the log, cranial bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are packed; they will become the base for the rough flooring. Next, planed boards with a thickness of about 20–30 mm are laid on these bars in even rows.

There will be a constant pull of moisture from the ground, so both the skull beam and the planks of the rough flooring must be well impregnated with protective compounds.

I use creosote for this; they used to impregnate railway sleepers with it. In a residential area, such impregnation is undesirable, but it is perfect for a subfloor. But this is a personal matter, you can take any impregnation you like.

The subfloor slats are cut exactly to size and laid on the skull beam; they, of course, can be nailed, but I don’t see much point in this, they won’t go anywhere anyway.

Now a continuous layer of technical polyethylene is laid over the entire room, with a sheet of technical polyethylene wrapped around the log and fixed with a stapler. It will protect from moisture, plus even if there are cracks left somewhere, there will be no air blowing through them.

Polystyrene foam itself does not allow moisture to pass through, so there is no point in installing any kind of hydro or vapor barrier on top. If there are large cracks left somewhere, don’t worry, they can be blown out with foam.

For a wooden house, the best and simplest option, in my opinion, is to install a floorboard. For this, planed tongue and groove boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more are used. In order not to spoil the appearance of nail heads on the floorboard, the planks can be fixed using clamps or hammering nails into the lower part of the groove of the board.

To install parquet, laminate and other newfangled coverings, you will need to make a durable monolithic flooring. In such cases, I sew plywood of the FK brand with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm in 2 layers, and the joints between the layers should not coincide.

Some craftsmen install OSB flooring, but I haven’t tried it, so I can’t say anything about it. The only thing I definitely don’t recommend doing is using chipboard sheets to lay out the base on the floor; at the slightest humidity they will swell and begin to peel off.

If a wooden house is built on a concrete slab, then there is less work. You need to lay overlapping concrete on the walls. plastic film. After this, install logs with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and lay foam plastic between them, and sew a finished floor on top using any of the technologies described above.

As for the ceiling, the easiest way is to hem the lining from below to the joists. On the side of the second floor or attic, cover everything with technical polyethylene, insert foam plastic between the joists and arrange the floor in the attic or on the second floor.

Both in the attic and in the interfloor ceiling, it is necessary to lay some kind of sound insulator; the cheapest option is to take polystyrene foam, but no one is stopping you from using, for example, mineral wool or expanded clay.

Now it's fashionable to leave them open load-bearing beams on the ceiling. The depth of such a beam usually fluctuates around 200 mm. In this case, I stuff a skull beam along the entire length approximately in the middle of the beam and hem the lining to it. Next, as usual, polyethylene, insulation and finishing coating of the second floor.

There are, of course, more multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard and suspended ceiling. But the installation of multi-level plasterboard structures requires some experience, and stretch ceilings are quite expensive and, without having the knowledge and special tools, I do not recommend undertaking their installation at all.

Arrangement of walls from the inside

As I already said, finishing the inside of the house with false timber is a priority method, because the house, after all, is made of timber and in this case we are simply correcting visual defects in the supporting structure.

False timber is the same lining, only large sizes. In theory, if the walls are smooth, then you can sew the cladding directly onto the walls, but believe me, it is better to put sheathing on the walls and install false beams on it. In this gap you can hide electrical wiring and communications.

The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on how much clearance you need. For arranging only electrical wiring, a 30x40 mm block is sufficient. But if you want to hide, for example, heating pipes, you will have to take a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or even larger. Of course, with such an installation, useful internal space is lost, but you have to put up with it, otherwise there is no other way.

And do not forget that electrical wiring in wooden structures must be well protected. All wires must be inserted into a metal hose. Now corrugated plastic tubes are sold for these purposes; they, of course, are considered self-extinguishing and cost less than metal hoses, but mice can easily chew through plastic.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is installed only in exceptional cases and is extremely rare. The thing is that with external insulation, the dew point is in the insulation, and if you install the insulation inside the house, it will be in the wooden walls, which will inevitably lead to their freezing.

The second most popular method of interior finishing of a log house is plasterboard. Drywall is especially relevant in services and in the kitchen. True, for wet rooms you need to buy sheets with appropriate protection (moisture resistant).

In a wooden house, I prefer to install drywall not on a traditional metal frame, but on a wooden sheathing. Or screw the sheets directly to the walls, but this can only be done if all the wiring is already installed in the walls.

I have already told you how to fill the sheathing; for plasterboard, the pitch of the planks is selected in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The sheets themselves are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet. But you can’t leave drywall clean; it needs to be puttied.

The technology here is not complicated. All joints between the sheets will need to be slightly widened with a knife; the groove should be approximately half the depth of the sheet, otherwise the putty will not adhere well. Next, prime the sheet, and when it dries, glue serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) onto the expanded joints.

Now spread the finishing putty and finish the sheet with it. You start by filling the joints and caulking the screws. When these areas are dry, take a wide metal spatula and apply a 1-2 mm layer of putty over the entire plane of the sheet.

If you plan to cover the plasterboard with tiles, then the entire wall will need to be reinforced with sickle before puttying. If you were unable to buy a self-adhesive serpyanka, then take PVA glue and glue the mesh onto it.

When finishing drywall for wallpaper, you can do without reinforcement, you just need to lightly sand the putty with emery. To paint, putty walls will have to be sanded to perfection. That is, start with coarse sandpaper and end with fine sandpaper.

Often, fragmentary finishing with natural or artificial stone is used inside a log house or in the basement area. This coating is quite heavy, plus there is a possibility of the base moving, so the base needs to be strengthened well.

After treatment with protective compounds and primer, a galvanized metal mesh is attached to the wooden wall. I usually use a chain-link and secure it with self-tapping screws, onto which I additionally put wide washers.

Most often, tile adhesive is used to install stone, but here it is better to consult a consultant, the fact is that special adhesives are produced for some minerals.

Previously reinforced wooden base it was covered with a layer of cement-sand mortar, after which it was slightly leveled with a trowel and the stone was already laid on such a base.

Now, instead of cement-sand mortar, craftsmen use the above-mentioned tile adhesive; it costs more, but the reliability and quality are much higher. By the way, glue must be applied not only to the base, but also to the stone itself. Installation of such cladding is carried out from the bottom up, with a support strip attached at the bottom.

Conclusion

October 28, 2016

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The final stage of building a log house is its finishing. Despite the large number of advantages, wood as a material for building houses has a number of significant disadvantages. First of all, this is the impact harmful insects In addition, there is a tendency to the formation of fungal mold and rotting of the material. But as you know, there are currently many in various ways, allowing you to protect your home from such negative factors. The main thing is correct and high quality finish timber house.

Finishing materials for walls in a timber house

Surely you know that before you start finishing the walls of a log house, you should wait until it settles. This will take at least a year and a half, and the process will be completed no earlier than five years later. But finishing a house made of timber can be done at an earlier stage. For this you will need special finishing materials.

You can get by with a less radical and expensive method in order to protect the walls of the house from negative influences external environment. Houses made of timber have a rather beautiful appearance and can easily do without external wall decoration. But this will require careful impregnation with special protective compounds. There are two types of covering for a log house:

• tonic, which is designed to create a certain shade;
• protective, ensuring the smoothness of the wall.

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Log house: the most popular types of finishing

If you decide that your house requires mandatory finishing of the walls before final settlement, you should decide on the choice of finishing material.

1. Plaster. The most current option is plaster. This material has the lowest price, and maximum term its service reaches 25 years. Most often, plaster is used as a preliminary layer for paint or to level walls. All plastering work is done by hand.
2. Siding. Often the walls in a log house are decorated using siding. This building material, like the previous one, has a low price. If the base is, for example, plastic, then it does not rot and does not require periodic painting. This wall decoration is much easier to install than many other options. To process siding you will need minimal amount the simplest tools. There are several types of siding: vinyl, metal, wood, timber and cement.
3. Wall finishing with facing bricks. This finishing option has a very beautiful appearance. Facing bricks can be of various color shades. In addition, this material can be smooth, corrugated, with all kinds of patterns, etc. Due to a special modifying additive facing brick has high strength, guarantees a long service life, ideally withstands temperature changes, conducts and withstands heat perfectly.
4. Fake diamond. Unlike natural stone, artificial stone is a lighter material. You should not count on the low price of this type of finishing in the house. In addition, this process is considered quite labor-intensive. Before finishing with artificial stone, the wall must be treated with a special adhesive composition. Keep in mind that the cost of such a composition is also very high. The construction market has a wide range of this material, which allows you to find the texture you have in mind and choose any color shade that suits your home.
5. Lining as finishing for a log house. Lining is no less in demand. Externally, these are ordinary boards with tongue-and-groove joints. In addition, to decorate your house with your own hands, you can use a decorative type of lining, very similar to timber. This material is called block house.

After your house has settled thoroughly, absolutely any material can be used to decorate it.

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Step-by-step instruction

Required material and tools:

• sander;
• roulette;
• level;
• protective glasses;
• workwear;
• insulation;
• protective impregnation;
• mineral wool;
• roofing felt;
• vapor barrier film;
• dye;
• primer;
• finishing material.

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Stages of work

Exterior finishing of a timber house.

Exterior decoration wooden house is needed to provide more reliable protection from external influences.

The façade of a building must perform many very important functions. These include reliable thermal insulation, sound insulation, good air exchange, and fire resistance. Besides, correct finishing at home, protects the log house from dampness, therefore, eliminates the appearance of fungal mold on it.

1. Caulking the walls of a timber house. First of all, you need to calculate the amount required material for home decoration. To prevent gaps from appearing between the crowns, in addition to other work, you will need caulk. When building houses, it is necessary to caulk the walls at least twice. After this, the same procedure is carried out on the outside of the house. After waiting for the final shrinkage, you should repeat the caulking of the walls again. When assembling a log house, each crown is covered with special insulation no more than 1 cm thick. When assembling window and doorways thickness insulation material in log houses it is necessary to increase it to 4 cm. It is better to caulk timber in houses from the bottom up.
2. The process of preparing walls in a house. For finishing with artificial stone, ceramics, as well as for painting, the walls in the house must be carefully sanded. If you decide to use siding as a finishing material, you will need to install sheathing on the log houses. The next step treat the log houses with a layer of special impregnation, which will provide protection from fungal mold, temperature changes associated with the change of seasons, and from attacks by harmful insects.
3. Insulation and cladding of a timber house. In order to insulate a wooden house, you should use mineral wool. Place this material between external wall and frame. First of all, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier, after which the wall is covered with aluminum foil (can be replaced with roofing felt or plastic film). In order to provide windproofing, a polyethylene film is nailed over the mineral wool.

Only after completing all of the above points can you begin decorative cladding. Keep in mind that the walls must be painted within four days of sanding. The choice of paints is large, including a wide range offering a universal look to the product. But the best option is paint designed for working with wood.

Having completed the construction of a log house, you should not think that all the work is finished. On the contrary, the most interesting things are just ahead! For creating cozy atmosphere Interior decoration of a house made of timber is necessary, which requires more detailed attention.

And how to carry it out correctly, read this article.

Interior work in a wooden house - an integrated approach

If you have not yet come across the term “interior decoration of houses made of timber”, then it is worth explaining that this is a whole set of tasks, which includes:

• Laying communications (heating, water supply, sewerage, electricity);
• Impregnation of wooden walls with antiseptics and fire-resistant compounds; (see also article)
• Thermal insulation and waterproofing of walls, floors, ceilings (if necessary);
• Installation of partitions and other structures;
• Preparation of walls, ceilings, floors decorative finishing(leveling, installation of a frame for fastening cladding material, etc.);
• Finishing cladding of walls, ceilings, floors;
• Installation interior doors, switches, lighting fixtures.

Advice!
If you have never done any of the work listed above before, it is better to entrust it to qualified specialists.
Well, let it take more money than originally planned.
But this way you can be sure that everything is done efficiently and reliably.
This is especially true for communications.
It’s quite possible to handle the remaining tasks on your own.

Interior decoration houses made of profiled timber are a responsible undertaking. Therefore, before starting it, it would be good to draw up a design project in which all the nuances will be clearly spelled out. In particular, the location of heating pipes, electrical networks, sewerage and much more.

That is, you need to clearly consider all the previously mentioned points: from rough materials to decorative coatings - their type, required quantity, cost, color, texture, etc.

Another important point, which you should be aware of - all wooden buildings have shrinkage.

This process can be divided into two stages:

1. Primary shrinkage - in most cases continues during the first 2 years due to drying of the wood. Due to the fact that at this time there is a decrease in the gaps between the beams under the weight of the roof, cracks of various sizes may appear outside and inside the room. In addition, the ceiling and walls may shrink by 2-3 centimeters.
   In view of this, experts do not recommend using rigid structures (for example, plasterboard, plastic panels) until the shrinkage of the house is completed.
2. Secondary – associated with fluctuations in humidity and temperature of wood. As a rule, it is insignificant and is unlikely to have any negative impact on internal cladding coatings.
   Then, what could the interior decoration of a house made of laminated veneer lumber or profiled timber look like in the first years after construction?
   The best thing to do here is:
   
   • Plaster bearing structures and cover them with special paint and varnish compositions, protecting the tree from mold and rot;
   • Install a two-layer subfloor;
   • Leave the ceiling as it is or use a stretch fabric.

Product	YUNIS TEPLON plaster white (30 kg) MIXTER plaster (30 kg) STARATELI plaster gray gypsum (30 kg) Gypsum plaster RUSEAN TERMOPLAST / Thermoplast (30 kg) Cement leveling plaster OSNOVIT BIGWELL T-22 (25 kg) Cement-lime forged leveling plaster OSNOVIT STARTWELL T-21 (25 kg) Gypsum plaster OSNOVIT GIPSWELL MN T-26 (30 kg) Gypsum plaster OSNOVIT GIPSWELL T-25 white (30 kg) Gypsum plaster OSNOVIT GIPSWELL T-25 gray (30 kg) Light plaster OSNOVIT FLYWELL T-24 (20 kg) Thin-layer cement plaster OSNOVIT SLIMWELL PC23 (T-23) (25 kg) Cement mortar LITOKOL LITOPLAN RAPID / LITOKOL LITOPLAN RAPID (25 kg) Plaster mixture LITOKOL LITOGIPS / LITOKOL LITOGIPS (30 kg) Decorative cement plaster KERAFLEX BARK BEETLE (25 kg) Decorative cement plaster KERAFLEX SUBA (25 kg) Plaster KERAFLEX S20 Basic (25 kg) Plaster KERAFLEX S23 Gray (30 kg) Plaster KERAFLEX S27 Machine (30 kg) Plaster VOLMA LAYER Universal (30 kg) Pieces VOLMA CANVAS painting (30 kg) VILIS gypsum plaster mixture (30 kg) PERFEKTA gypsum plaster / PERFECTA GIPSTAR WHITE (30 kg) PERFEKTA gypsum plaster / PERFECTA GIPSTAR GRAY (30 kg) Light gypsum plaster PERFEKTA / PERFECTA GREEN LINE ECOSIDE (30 kg) Pieces machine plaster plastering and manual application PERFEKTA / PERFECTA GIPSTAR WHITE (30 kg) Gypsum plaster for machine and manual application PERFEKTA / PERFECTA GIPSTAR GRAY (30 kg) Decorative plaster PERFEKTA / PERFECTA BARK BEETLE (25 kg) Decorative plaster PERFEKTA / PERFECTA FUR COAT (25 kg) Facade plaster PERFEKTA / PERFECTA LEVELING (25 kg) Facade plaster PERFEKTA / PERFECTA LEVELING WINTER (25 kg) Facade lightweight machine applied plaster PERFEKTA / PERFECTA FRONTPRO LIGHT (30 kg) Lightweight facade plaster machine applied PERFEKTA / PERFECTA FRONTPRO L AYT WINTER (30 kg) Lightweight facade plaster machine application PERFEKTA / PERFECTA FRONTPRO (30 kg) Reinforced facade plaster PERFEKTA / PERFECTA THIN-LAYER (25 kg) Plaster KNAUF ROTBAND White (30 kg) Plaster KNAUF ROTBAND Gray (25 kg) Plaster KNAU F ROTBAND / KNAUF ROTBAND Gray (30 kg) KNAUF UNTERPUTZ façade plaster (25 kg) BERGAUF Bau Putz Gips gypsum plaster (30 kg) BERGAUF Easyband gypsum plaster (30 kg) BERGAUF Pri gypsum plaster ma Putz Gips / BERGAUF Prima Putz Gypsum premium (30 kg) Cement plaster BERGAUF Bau Putz Zement / BERGAUF Bau Putz Cement for facades (25 kg)
Surface area m2
Layer thickness, mm.

Rough and finishing floor

First of all, the subfloor is raised from timber into the home. We recommend choosing a double floor structure - it the best way will retain heat inside the room.

How's that for a double subfloor? That is, special logs are constructed, between which insulation with a waterproofing layer is laid (for example, mineral wool). Then the whole thing is covered with boards, followed by finishing flooring. Perhaps this is the simplest, most economical and effective option in terms of heat conservation and sound insulation.

But it is very popular to use the following materials as a finishing floor covering in timber houses:

1. Planed tongue and groove board.
   It has many advantages, of which I would especially like to note the following:
   
   • it's 100% environmentally friendly pure material, which, thanks to natural properties and special impregnations, “breathes” and has excellent resistance to moisture;
   • strength and durability are another advantage tongue and groove boards(besides, such a floor is very convenient and easy to care for);
   • modern variations in the processing and tinting of the surface of the boards make it possible to harmoniously fit them into almost any interior;
   • If necessary, the floor covering can always be updated by sanding or regular sanding of the boards.

1. But if a water or infrared “warm floor” system is used as additional heating, then you can forget about the floorboard. The fact is that a decent portion of the heat will be spent on heating the sheet pile.
   In this case, laminate or parquet boards are most often used to lay the finished floor.

Important!
When choosing parquet/laminate for floor heating with heating, pay attention to the presence of appropriate markings, which should indicate that the coating has good heat conductivity.

Wall cladding options

As mentioned above, the interior decoration of the walls of a house made of timber involves their preparation (puttying, insulation, moisture and vapor barrier, etc. work) and further covering with finishing material/coating.

Advice!
Before finishing wall structures, answer yourself the question: “for what purposes will the constructed house be used?”
If it was erected for spending only weekends and summer holidays, then you can safely save on insulation.
After all, no one will live here in winter.
But if it’s the other way around (that is, this is the main dwelling), then it’s simply necessary to insulate the walls.

As for finishing the walls, there are many interesting solutions. True, when the house is shrinking (remember, the first 2 years after construction), it is better to limit yourself to paints, varnishes or simple stain.

This treatment is notable for the fact that the natural texture of the wood is preserved. After all, the tree itself has unique patterns, which are drawn by the most talented artist - nature. Why hide this beauty? This technique is especially effective if the walls of the house are built from valuable timber.

Attention!
Choosing paint coatings, give preference to those that contain as few substances harmful to health as possible.

For your information!
Modern paint comes in matte, semi-gloss and glossy – also take this into account when purchasing it.

In the event that shrinkage no longer threatens, the interior decoration of a wooden house made of timber can be made with sheet materials.

Let's look at the most fashionable of them:

1. Isotex wall panels. They are usually made from wood without the addition of glue, so they are excellent environmental friendliness and hypoallergenic. The advantages here also include good thermal insulation characteristics, sound-absorbing properties and easy installation.

The outer covering of the panels is vinyl wallpaper or linen fabric. In specialized stores you will certainly find a wide range of these products, made in different colors and textures.

1. Drywall is widely used everywhere for interior work. And this is not surprising, because you can use it to create any architectural creations (in particular arches)! In addition, it has a small specific gravity, easy to process and is environmentally friendly material. Oh, yes, the price for it is very, very pleasant, despite the many useful qualities.

The installation instructions for plasterboard sheets suggest attaching them to metal or wooden frame, which is pre-built on wall structures. This system is convenient in that the timber and gypsum board will not come into contact with each other - this will preserve both load-bearing walls, and the casing from the formation of cracks.

Behind sheet material, in the frame you can conveniently hide electrical wiring, plumbing, and other communications (not to mention the insulating layer).

1. Interior wall decoration with imitation timber - siding, lining, block house, MDF panels. Many of our compatriots like real Russian log huts, but, alas, this is a very expensive pleasure. Therefore, it is necessary to build from cheaper material - profiled or laminated timber, which has rectangular section. (see article for more details)

Interior decoration with imitation timber allows you to give a timber house that missing nobility, and without spending a lot of money, time and effort. A room with such cladding is difficult to distinguish from natural logs.

The main advantages include:

• Environmental friendliness - the room will always maintain a favorable microclimate. And if you use panels made of pine or larch, the air in the house will become truly healing! (see article for more details)
• Wide range of applications - such panels can also be used for interior finishing of a bathhouse made of timber with your own hands or external cladding of buildings. And that's thanks to unique properties material: resistance to moisture, temperature changes, ultraviolet radiation and other harmful influences.

• Simplified installation - a convenient groove fastening system not only facilitates the cladding process, but also makes the decorative coating monolithic and durable.

As you can see, the interior decoration of houses made of laminated veneer lumber can be very diverse and original, matching the chosen style of room decoration.

Since we started the renovation, let’s not forget about the ceiling

Here, again, you need to proceed from whether shrinkage occurs at the time of finishing work or not. If there is no longer any shrinkage, you can implement any ideas using any existing materials.

And in a newly completed house, it is more rational to choose one of the two solutions below:

1. Leave the ceiling in open form. It would be great if the interior of the room corresponds to this approach. An unlined ceiling can harmoniously fit in and emphasize the country or Provence style, for example.

1. Make a suspended ceiling that will perfectly cover the ceiling hole and at the same time will not interfere with the shrinkage of the house.

Conclusion

Any interior decoration (not only timber buildings) is a complex event that simultaneously solves several important problems. Therefore, it must be taken seriously. Only then will the desired coziness, comfort and warmth reign in the house!

And in the video posted in this article there is visual information on the topic we touched on.

Houses made of timber are a very popular type of structure. The timber is easy to install due to its rectangular profile; such buildings are quickly erected, which is why this building material occupies a leading position in the wooden house-building segment. In temperate and northern latitudes, timber is usually insulated and covered.

Features of timber buildings

Houses made of profiled timber do not differ in construction technology from log houses. The material itself is very attractive. The building is made of natural wood with a beautiful grain pattern and looks organically against the backdrop of the natural landscape. For low-rise private construction, sawn, glued and profiled timber is used, which determines the installation technology. Structures made from timber are environmentally friendly; this material is breathable.

The cross-section of the material ranges from 10 to 20 centimeters. The cross-sectional size is the thickness of the walls. For cold climatic conditions this is clearly not enough, so the walls outside and inside have to be insulated so that the final thickness of the walls is for temperate climate at least 40 centimeters. There is a need to cladding facades with insulation, which is carried out various materials, corresponding to the style of construction. Disadvantages include the ability of wood to absorb moisture, the tendency to form corrosion from excessive moisture, and high flammability. Exterior decoration is designed to reduce the influence of negative atmospheric factors, insulate and increase the safety of the home.

Suitable finishing time

The finishing of the facades begins after the final shrinkage of the frame. Porous wood fibers absorb and release moisture, this deforms and slightly changes the size of the wall, even if the wood was well dried before construction. Timber structures undergo shrinkage from several months to two years. The construction season also affects the shrinkage time: construction in winter will require 7–8 months, in summer – at least 12 months. The most intense deformation process is observed in the first three months.

There are some differences in these terms for different materials. Exterior finishing construction of a house made of laminated veneer lumber can begin within three months after construction, since this material was dried using special technologies in production and is not affected by atmospheric moisture and does not deform. Due to the gluing of the timber, the wood fibers do not twist along their length. Rounded and sawn timber do not have these qualities, since the densest wood of the outer layer of the log is cut off during processing. This reduces moisture resistance and makes the timber vulnerable to rot and fungus. Experts recommend choosing the time of late autumn - early winter for construction due to the low cost of construction, then in the summer it will be possible to begin installing windows, doors, exterior and interior decoration without fear of cracking the cladding.

Types of materials

A finished timber frame can be clad on the outside with various types of finishing: stone, bricks, plastic or metal siding, flexible ceramics. You can use false timber. Each option has both advantages and disadvantages. The most expensive and durable finishing material is natural decorative stone; its installation requires special professional skills. Stone tiles are glued to the facade using the same technology as tiles in a bathroom or sauna using moisture-resistant components adhesive composition. Natural stone is a heavy material, so installation may require special fasteners to provide strength. More often, only the base of the building and some parts of the wall or a porch with columns are finished with stone.

It is better to use artificial decorative stone. In terms of aesthetic qualities, it is in no way inferior to the real thing, and in terms of operational properties even surpasses it. Front surface artificial stone imitates any natural mineral, more resistant to adverse mechanical influences. Its price is slightly lower, but it is also an expensive finish. The compensation will be a long service life and a solid appearance of the house, the ability to choose any shade of stone.

A common technique to cover timber brickwork. It significantly increases the cost of construction, but the house will receive the necessary thermal insulation. The service life of the building will increase significantly, and the flammability rate will decrease. Such houses maintain comfortable indoor conditions even in northern regions. Cladding the entire structure, even half a brick, will require strengthening the foundation and professional bricklaying skills.

A popular lightweight option is decorative facade clinker tiles, which looks aesthetically pleasing in combination with wood. It has variations in thickness, appearance and size. During the manufacturing process, firing takes place, and the corner elements are made using the extrusion method, this extends the service life of the finish to several decades. Clinker tiles have irregularities on the back side, due to which there is good adhesion to the wall surface. The front side imitates not only different types of minerals, but also bricks with a different range of shades.

Edged and unedged boards, false beams, wooden slats, and block houses are the most common finishing materials in private wooden housing construction. Good thermal insulation properties, the aesthetics of rural style and the beauty of natural wood attract the attention of consumers. The block house allows you to imitate structures made from solid logs. A wooden strip and edged board neatly hide the insulation and do not disturb the naturalistic natural style and are affordable and easy to install. Often wood trim complemented by carvings, which greatly decorate buildings in the Russian style.

Separately, you should pay attention to unedged boards. This material costs pennies. But a façade properly sheathed with unedged boards turns the house into a work of art. The board or slab is cleared of bark, the facades are sanded and sewn up. Rough finishing gives the building a rustic feel and becomes an aesthetic accent. Firing the wood adds decorativeness while simultaneously increasing the durability and strength of the material.

In front of everyone positive qualities Natural wood is not moisture resistant enough and is susceptible to fungus. The replacement was plastic and metal siding. Metal siding more suitable for industrial buildings, but can also be used in civil engineering. Modern technologies made it possible to give good technical characteristics to these materials: durability, moisture resistance, pigment resistance, variety of designs, ease of self-installation, affordable price category. A neat and aesthetic appearance of the house is guaranteed for ten years or more.

Flexible ceramics has become a new, technologically advanced material. The basis is clay with polymers. Flexible ceramics are characterized by durability, do not fade in the sun, are very convenient to use, moisture-resistant and durable. This is a roll material and the cladding is similar to wallpapering. They can be used to paste over structures with round shapes– columns, arches, vaults, domes. Due to the presence of clay in the composition, it has breathable properties, but still for most finishes it is wooden frame You need ventilated facade insulation.

A plastered facade is a simple and decent finish for external walls. The work is simple, but labor-intensive, and not difficult to master. He is good fire protection, easy to repair. The plastered facade can be combined with any design style. It can be painted or decorated with decorative plaster.

Distinguish the following types decorative plaster:

• mineral is a durable cement mixture that is resistant to the formation of fungus and mold;
• silicate is made from liquid potassium glass. It is considered a breathable and durable material;
• acrylic is made from synthetic resins and has a high frost resistance coefficient. The presence of resin in the plaster gives it plasticity; in case of possible deformations of the facade, the surface is resistant to the formation of cracks.

Surface preparation

Preparing for external cladding The facade begins with the impregnation of the timber with special anti-corrosion and fire retardant compounds. Without an insulation device, a film or a special membrane is laid overlapping the surface. Next, they are attached to the wall with a construction stapler, and the joints are taped. A plaster mesh is attached to the film. Next, it is plastered and stone or facing tiles are laid.

For other types of finishing, start insulating the external walls. After fixing the film, the sheathing is stuffed onto the frame. It is carried out metal profile, but you can make it from wooden slats. The profile or batten is filled in increments of 50 cm. Mineral wool or foam plastic is placed in the cells so that 2–3 centimeters of empty space remains to the edge of the sheathing for ventilation of the facade. The insulation is covered on top windproof membrane and close plaster mesh for subsequent plastering and stone gluing or painting.

To cover the facade, the second row of sheathing is filled. This row will become the basis for siding cladding, wooden board or slats, flexible ceramics. In this case, the facing material is attached with self-tapping screws to the top sheathing. The sheathing must be done in such a way that it is convenient to attach the finishing elements.

Installation of cladding

You can decorate with stone or tiles in two ways: with jointing (a more decorative look) and end-to-end (a monolithic coating is obtained). Some types decorative tiles can be laid only in one of these ways, it is worth asking in advance when purchasing, since the installation of a seam requires special skills and equipment. If the stone is of different sizes, then first lay out some part on the floor, trying to achieve the maximum decorative effect by alternating parts different sizes. Laying begins from openings and corners from bottom to top.

New technologies have made this process easier. Thermal panels have appeared on sale - this is a ready-made insulation board with a layer of decorative stone already glued on. The type, color and texture of the decor can be chosen to suit your taste; thermal panels are glued directly to the facade. It is important that the wall surface is smooth. This material is not suitable for wooden walls. the best choice, since there is no ventilation of the wood. Modular views sheathing, siding, lath, lining are attached using self-tapping screws to the sheathing or special locks from the bottom up. The first row is installed at a height of 10–15 cm from the ground for air circulation under the panels, if a base is not provided.

Decorative plaster applied to the rough layer. It can be smooth or have a textured texture. The relief helps to hide the unevenness of the facade. The optimal layer thickness for the facade is 1 cm. When choosing plaster for finishing the facade of a wooden house, you need to be prepared for the inevitable appearance of cracks, since wood has plasticity and is always slightly deformed.

Interior finishing of a wooden house is a rather labor-intensive process, and depending on your goals, it will require certain material costs from you.

The volume and nature of finishing work will largely depend on a number of factors, such as:
is the house new or is it an old building,
the material of the walls of your house is made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber,
one or two floors in the house.

Proper preparation for finishing: materials and tools

Before you begin the interior decoration of the premises, you need to think carefully about the work plan, that is, calculate as accurately as possible the amount of material and its approximate cost, so that in the future you do not have to redo it and incur extra costs.
Most important element interior decoration are walls, since they occupy the largest area of ​​the house and attention is paid to their decoration first of all.
If it is new and just built, then finishing the wooden walls will require mostly high-quality processing, and it should be done in the following sequence:
1. First, be sure to clean the surface of the wooden walls with sandpaper, removing all small scratches and minor dirt. Sandpaper No. 1 will cost 280 rubles per square meter or from 100 rubles per flap emery wheel for a regular drill.
2. Be sure to treat the wooden surface with an antiseptic at the rate of 200 ml per square meter, while the cost of a standard 5 liter canister will only cost you 350 rubles.
3. Next, we fill in all the chips, scratches and cracks to give the wood its original appearance. Here you need to use only a special putty for woodwork, which is produced in the colors of the texture of any wood and you just need to match it to the tone of your texture. With putty costing from 250₽ per kilogram, you won’t need very much of it.
4. If necessary, we tint wooden walls, as in the photo. To do this, we purchase tinting oils or solutions. It will cost you from 300₽ per kilogram of simple wood oil or 750₽ for toners with special additions of wax and various fixatives. The consumption of tinting oils will be about 250-300 grams per coating in two passes. Don't let the price scare you - it's worth it. As a result, from simple ordinary pine you can get walls made of expensive and rare types of wood, for example, a complete imitation of antique pine, light or dark oak, dark teak, or even mahogany.

5. Finally, we apply a protective varnish coating, which at a consumption of 250 g/m2 for two passes will cost an average of 500 rubles per kilogram of high-quality varnish. If you have not tinted, then you can purchase wood varnish that has a light tint, which will allow you to extra costs adjust the texture of existing wood.
To produce the interior decoration of the walls of a new wooden house from profiled timber, you will need a minimum of tools:
spatulas,
sandpaper No. 1,
paint rollers,
paneled brushes measuring 1-2 inches,
rag rags,
solvent.
As a result, finishing the interior walls in a house with a total area of ​​100 m2 will cost you about 40,000 rubles, and with tinting it will cost you 60,000 rubles, which is not very expensive - only 300 rubles per meter of surface.

Features of the interior decoration of a wooden house made of timber

If the house has stood for more than one year, then the interior decoration will already appear to be part repair work and will require somewhat more labor and significant expenses than in a new house.
Since the main disadvantage of wooden walls is shrinkage and drying out, as a result of which cracks and crevices appear that need to be repaired.
To seal large cracks, it is best to use specialized acrylic sealants, which are designed for woodworking, which will allow you to seal the crack flush with the wall surface in one go, as in the photo. The tone of the sealant must be selected according to the color of the wood so as not to incur additional costs. The price of a container of 25 kg of liquid sealant starts from 8500 RUR and it will be enough for 140 meters of a shallow seam, which will increase the total cost of work by 60 RUR per meter.
After processing large cracks and crevices, we carry out further finishing, as for any other wooden structure:
putty,
we clean up
we tint
varnish.
But unlike a new home, you'll have to spend more time and effort sanding to get it perfect.
If this still does not help hide the main defects of wood aging, then the walls can be painted instead of varnishing alkyd paints, and this finishing method will not be so demanding on the preparation of the wall surface and will significantly reduce, first of all, overall labor costs.

In case the walls country house For some reason, timber cannot be brought back to “life” with light cosmetic actions, then their surface should be covered with a completely new material.
The most accessible and frequently used are:
lining,
block house,
drywall.
The most inexpensive coating walls for interior decoration are forced out, and you can achieve the effect of a new house if you use a board with imitation timber. Depending on the profile and type of wood, the cost of lining ranges from 150₽ to 250₽ per square meter finished product. It should be borne in mind that it is quite easy to install and does not require special costs for preliminary surface preparation.

Remodeling an old house: extensions from different wall materials

Blockhouse is somewhat more expensive than simple lining, but at the same time almost completely repeats the wall of a rounded house. Keep in mind that how finishing material a blockhouse is more difficult to install and requires certain skills and experience when working with it. It, just like the lining, can be mounted on any wooden wall without any special preparation. Prices for a blockhouse start at 350₽/m2.
Drywall, as a material for wall decoration, costs only 50₽/m2 and has no restrictions for use in wooden houses. But it requires additional creation of a supporting frame, as well as preparatory putty and final painting, which increases its final surface cost to 1000₽/m2.

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Typical mistakes contractors make when decorating a timber house

Most great feature wooden houses is that throughout their entire period of existence they are, as it were, “alive” and, depending on time and environmental conditions, one way or another, they are capable of deformation.
So, new house made of timber is capable of significant shrinkage in the first year after construction. Poorly dried timber can not only be compressed across the trunk, under the influence of the weight of the entire structure, but can also be significantly deformed along its axis, making interior decoration work very short-lived or requiring special additional work during its implementation.
It is believed that a house made of wooden materials 5 or more years old, allows the use of non-deformable materials for its interior decoration, such as drywall and ceramic tiles.
It is highly not recommended to use so-called wet work for houses made of timber for interior wall decoration, for example, plastering walls, as this can lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface over time.