Making a concrete countertop with your own hands: a detailed master class. Advantages of concrete countertops What composition of concrete for countertops

In order to buy a kitchen countertop that will fully meet your needs in terms of aesthetics and functionality, you need to prepare a significant amount of money. It is much more economical to make it yourself, especially since it is completely possible to do it at home. You can implement your idea with the help of concrete, due to the availability of the material and the relative ease of working with it.

How to make a concrete countertop with your own hands? Understanding the basic manufacturing technologies and knowing the instructions for concreting, you can not only make a new surface in the kitchen, but also restore the old one, which makes it possible to save even more money.

Development of a tabletop drawing

First of all, you should decide how your table will look and what its dimensions will be. When making your own kitchen countertops, the edges of the plane must be clearly adjacent to the walls.

Making a clear drawing concrete countertop is the main step of the work, since the quality will depend on its development finished product. During the production of the drawing it is necessary calculate the creation of a tabletop from parts. The weight of the finished product in its entirety is large, therefore, dividing it into parts during production makes it easier to move and process them, and in addition, will protect them from cracks.

When making the frame of a concrete countertop with my own hands it is necessary to calculate the strengthening of its main part with transverse boards, and in addition its connection in separate parts with the tabletop. Wooden boards are used for the frame. If desired, you can use finished cabinets with drawers. It all depends on the imagination of a home specialist.

Materials and tools for work

Calculating the required number of substances, from which the kitchen countertop will be made, add a little so that there is a reserve.

The following materials are required for the countertop:

cement not lower than grade M500;
river sand;
water;
plasticizer

To make a cement base, you need to build formwork - a form to fill. Smooth, strong materials are selected for it and made according to technology.

You will also need:

Creation of formwork and preparation of concrete solution

We lay a sheet of plywood or chipboard onto a smooth plane, after which we transfer the previously organized drawing using a ruler and pencil. On each line we put wooden beam 50x30 millimeters, so that the resulting thickness of your tabletop is 50 millimeters. It is this parameter that is suitable for a concrete product: reducing the thickness makes the structure fragile, increasing it makes it very heavy.

The fastening of the formwork walls must be quite reliable in order to withstand the load generated by the concrete during its curing. It is more correct to connect the joints of two walls using corners or long screws (from 60 millimeters). The location in front of the sink depends on the type and size of the plumbing fixture.

There are 2 types of sinks:

Built-in.
Invoices.

The 2nd type has a horizontal side approximately 30 millimeters wide, which must be taken into account when drawing up the drawing. If you have decided to produce The kitchen countertop is made of concrete; in this case, it is more correct to use an overhead sink. Firstly, built-in modifications have a landing side, which is not so easy to do. Secondly, the presence of the side makes it possible to allow for slight inaccuracy when forming the hole for the sink. In addition, you should definitely calculate the passage for the mixer. For this it is allowed to use plastic pipe with a diameter of 35 mm.

After preparing the mold with your own hands you can mix the solution. First of all, mix 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Next, a plasticizer and water are added to the purchased composition. The prepared composition should be in the form of a paste.

To obtain colored concrete or a marble countertop, you need to add a special coloring pigment or special chips to it. If measured coloring is needed, then the pigment is added to the dry mixture, and to obtain the characteristic granite stains, the pigment is diluted with water and added to the prepared concrete composition.

Before you start filling concrete mortar, the form is placed in an exactly horizontal position with horizontal level control. Prepared, thoroughly mixed composition, carefully pour into the prepared form several times. The surface of the mold for a concrete countertop is covered with film and kept for at least 10 days. Next, the film is removed and the mold is disassembled into parts. Subsequent processing of the product can be carried out after a week. During this period, the concrete blank, created with your own hands, will completely dry out.

Sanding and polishing the product

The grinding process takes place in several steps. First, use a coarse grinding disc, working all the edges of the workpiece with it. However, more attention is paid outside, previously located at the bottom of the mold for casting the tabletop.

Grinding the surface of the tabletop is carried out in the following way:

The final step in making a tabletop with your own hands is polishing the product. When polishing, grinding discs with an abrasiveness of 400 to 1500 units are used alternately. The surface is polished slowly and carefully; while working, the polishing layers should be continuously wetted.

After finishing the polishing process the plane of the tabletop created with your own hands looks smooth and shining. At first glance it will be difficult to distinguish it from natural stone. The final step of the work is to treat the surface to protect it from contamination with a special sealant and install the finished countertop in a place specialized for it.

If you no longer want to see ordinary ones in your kitchen or any other room of the house, you can order an expensive marble analogue. However, you can make such a product yourself using concrete. As practice shows, the design looks very attractive. And you can decorate it with different elements, including glass. After completion of the work you will be able to obtain unique table, which will cost very little.

Preparation of materials

If you will be making a concrete countertop, it is important to prepare necessary set materials. Among them, we should highlight boards, plywood, cement, fiberglass, acrylic-based polymer concrete, guides, broken glass, as well as fiber optic cable. You will need a sheet of laminated plywood, two sheets of plastic, sand, sealant, handles for drawers (if such are to be made), and decorative elements.

The boards must be made of hard wood. And their total length should be 6 meters. Plywood can be the most ordinary. There is no need to use moisture-repellent material at all. When preparing the plastic, remember that its thickness can be approximately 18 millimeters. You will need two such sheets. The volume of cement will depend on the specific dimensions of the future countertop. However, this article discusses an example that involves the use of two 50 kg bags. Therefore, we will present figures characteristic of this model. As for sand, you will need six bags, each of which should be 25 kilograms. It will be enough to purchase silicone sealant in the amount of one tube. But for decoration you can use different elements, not just glass.

Design

The concrete countertop will be made using some tools, namely: a set of polishing pads, a woodworking jig, an electric grinder, and a device for working with concrete. Initially, it will be necessary to create an action plan, which involves creating a drawing of the future structure. You must have a clear idea of what the table will look like. You need to measure the room where you plan to place the product.

You will waste your energy if, after completing the work, you discover that the countertop does not fit in size. It is not recommended to pour out the whole monolith. The process should be divided into several stages. This will prevent the formation of cracks. In addition, moving and installing individual parts will be much easier than a solid product, the weight of which is quite impressive. When a concrete countertop is made, the master must take into account the features of the interior. This will allow us to produce a structure whose design will match the decoration.

Frame construction

The design of each table will be unique. Therefore, there is no point in describing in detail the technology of constructing the frame. It is worth considering, however, that the table fronts will be made of The table top can rest on two pipes. IN central parts it is possible to provide for the presence drawer. Load-bearing elements It is recommended that the frame be made of hard wood. In order to create drawers and a facade, it is recommended to cut a sheet of plywood.

Creating a Shape to Fill

If you are making a concrete countertop, you must first create a mold, the parts of which will be 18 mm plastic sheets. It is necessary to install sides along the perimeter. Their height will be 50 millimeters. Thanks to these parameters, it will be possible to pour the required layer of concrete to ensure high strength. It is important to complete the forms, taking into account the dimensions of the frame. Already at this stage it is recommended to do everything as accurately as possible, since after pouring the concrete it will be impossible to correct the situation. The joints between the plastic sheets and the sides must be filled silicone sealant. It will prevent liquid concrete from leaking out.

Laying decorative elements and frame systems

A concrete countertop should not only be aesthetically attractive, but also as durable as possible. To do this, you should use wire mesh. Decorative elements should be placed at the bottom. Broken glass can play their role. After surface treatment, the decor will appear and become visible on the base.

The concrete countertop may have holes for laying communications. If this is the case, then their presence must be indicated at this stage. To do this, you can use a ring made of PVC pipes. The workpiece is wrapped in polyethylene and placed in the designated place. After the concrete hardens, the pipe is pushed out, and the polyethylene will be easy to get rid of.

Work methodology

The mesh rises above the surface of the mold base by 25 millimeters. The easiest way to do this is with wire. Should be given great importance decor. To make it attractive, you need to prepare transparent, brown and green glass, which breaks into fragments. If you wish, you can use coins, pebbles and other items.

The tabletop will look original with For this purpose in plastic sheet the molds need to drill holes. The cable is installed in them. Gaps should be filled with sealant. The ends of the cable will hang below the form. They need to be collected in bunches. Later, light elements are inserted into them, which will create the effect starry sky. Glass shards can easily become dislodged when pouring the solution. To prevent this, you should fix them with spray glue.

Pouring concrete

The next stage of manufacturing countertops involves pouring the solution. To do this, mix cement and sand using a ratio of 1 to 3. Water must be added until the mixture resembles thick sour cream. It is necessary to pour the composition into the mold as carefully as possible. After it is half filled, the mass must be distributed throughout the entire form. The formwork is shaken to get rid of air bubbles. Then you can start mixing another portion of concrete, using the same proportion.

However, in this case, fiberglass should be added. The composition is poured into the mold, and the surface is stretched using the rule. The structure is left in this state for 24 hours. After this, the base can be covered with a damp towel, which will slow down the hardening process and have a positive effect on strength. The manufacture of countertops involves removing finished product out of the mold in two days. However, experts recommend waiting one more day. If getting rid of the mold turns out to be problematic, then you need to pry off the edge with a spatula. Brick can be used as a support.

Carrying out grinding

The surface of the slab must be sanded after the concrete has hardened. This is necessary so that broken glass fragments and other decorative elements that were used during pouring appear on it. Sanding will smooth out any uneven surfaces and remove any glue residue. To carry out this work, the master should use clothes that he won’t mind getting dirty. After sanding, the slab is again left to dry.

Kitchen countertops are usually very smooth. In order to achieve a similar effect, at the next stage it is necessary to mix cement with an acrylic fixer. The mass should not be too thick. Its application is best done in three stages. It is important to remember that when the material dries, it shrinks. It needs to be distributed over the surface, filling all the cracks and voids. Excess should be removed from the surface, leaving the structure to dry.

What to do next?

At the time of the second application of the composition, you must try to fill all the voids that you missed the first time. When the kitchen countertops are covered with the third layer, there is no need to get rid of the remaining mixture. One night will be enough for the slab to dry. Then you can treat the surface grinder, providing it with a coarse-grained polishing pad. If during sanding you notice voids and holes that could not be filled with acrylic cement composition, then the process can be repeated by applying another layer.

Carrying out polishing

After completing all the work described above, you will get a dark countertop, the shade of which will be slightly different from concrete. On final stage will need to be polished. In this case, the working element must be constantly wet. There is no need to rush. Movements should be uniform and slow. If you are thinking about how to cover a concrete countertop, you can find out by reading the article. Gradually, grinders change in grit size. This is done until 1500 units can be reached. You can find polishing pads with a grain size of 3 thousand units. But in order to cover the surface with primer varnish, you should make the base as smooth as possible.

The production of concrete countertops ends with the application of a primer varnish. It should be allowed to dry thoroughly. To achieve a positive result, the varnish can be applied in several layers. And then the surface must be cleaned with a wax composition, after which has hardened, the tabletop is wiped with a clean rag.

Conclusion

If you are interested in the question of what minimum thickness concrete countertop, then this parameter should be equal to 5 centimeters. But even in this case, it is recommended to use a reinforcing mesh, which will increase strength. Many craftsmen neglect the stage of creating a template. However, these manipulations are very important to create a structure of ideal proportions.

To do this, you can use fiberboard and cardboard scraps, joined together with glue. Do not forget that a sink may be embedded into the countertop. This should be provided before the pouring stage, so that you do not have to cut the material afterwards. The cost of a factory-made countertop can reach 20 thousand rubles. However, if you want to do the work yourself, then the costs will be limited by the price of sand and cement.

Table made of epoxy resin– the crown of the modern furniture industry. For many years now, such tables have been a luxury item that can truly decorate. The editors of the site worked in this direction, collecting detailed information about what an epoxy table is, what types there are, and how you can make it yourself from scrap materials.

Looking closely at this or that building material, you always wonder how good it is, and whether its advantages really outweigh all its shortcomings. Positive traits epoxy resin are as follows:

increased strength to mechanical damage and moisture resistance;
long service life;
ease of care;
the ability to implement various design solutions;
availability for independent work– only a little skill and knowledge of a certain technology is required;
low cost - epoxy resin for filling countertops is relatively inexpensive, if we consider it on a par with, solid wood or . And according to quality characteristics is not inferior to them at all.

Epoxy resin is not an ideal material in every sense. Products made from it also have disadvantages:

sensitivity to treatment with any abrasive compounds - unpleasant sensations remain;
improperly prepared resin can subsequently compromise the quality of the final product;
some types of epoxy resins are not resistant to ultraviolet radiation and begin to turn yellow over time;
release of toxins. They begin to be released into the atmosphere only with prolonged contact with high temperatures, so you shouldn’t be afraid to place a hot dish or cup on an epoxy table. But soldering or burning on such countertops is highly not recommended.

Note! Epoxy resin does not ignite or melt even when in contact with an open flame. But it will poison the air considerably.

Types of epoxy resin tables and their features

Looking closely at buying a table made of epoxy resin and looking at the prices, you come to the conclusion: in essence, they are all similar to each other. And such products can be divided into several groups.

Epoxy resin worktops without support surface

An epoxy tabletop is a separately manufactured element that can become either part of the table or in.

You can simply buy an epoxy resin countertop and install it on your base. All that remains is to choose right size and favorable design.

Tabletops made of epoxy resin, wood and other supporting elements

Countertops are also made from epoxy resin on any supporting structures. Most often this is a base made of metal, plastic or solid wood. Someone manages to repurpose the bases from old stools as supports for table tops.

As a rule, craftsmen, for greater reliability, make the supporting elements and the tabletop a single whole by pouring epoxy directly onto them into pre-installed formwork.

Wooden table with additional filling and epoxy resin

Tables from wooden elements and epoxies are incredibly popular today. At the same time, in many designer models there is nothing extraordinary - just beautiful (sometimes ugly beautiful) pieces of wood, intact solid wood, filled with resin. For example, like the tables made of wood and epoxy resin in the photo below.

In such interesting tables other decorative elements can be added: phosphorus for a night glow, sea pebbles, glass, sparkles, shells - the only limitation here will be the imagination of the creators.

Note! Light objects must be glued to the base, otherwise they will float when pouring!

Table made of slab and epoxy resin - style and incredible beauty

Making tables from wood, or rather from slab and epoxy resin, is the trend of the season. First of all, because the slab - a cut of wood - has a unique texture, shape and pattern. It's like fingerprints: there are no identical cuts, each is unique in its own way. Therefore, products made from them are very highly valued by both aesthetes and manufacturers.

1 of 5

Making such a table or tabletop yourself is not that difficult. You just need to choose the right slab and fill it with transparent or colored epoxy resin.

Table-river based on epoxy resin

The table made of liquid glass and trees, the so-called “river”. Essentially these are two slabs with epoxy poured between them. blue color, perfectly imitating water clean river. Some models also have a surface that completely covers the entire surface. Here, as they say, it comes down to taste and color.

Some craftsmen add phosphorus to the epoxy, which turns such a table into a kind of night light. Countertops with the so-called multi-stage slab look especially interesting, adding mystery and depth. You can also buy tables with fish, reefs and entire marine colonies inside the epoxy filler. But such products are rare. It’s easier to make such beauty yourself.

Related article:

: properties, composition, characteristics, selection of the right components and options for using different solvents and plasticizers, instructions for use and an overview of current prices - read in the publication.

If you decide to buy a table made of wood and epoxy resin: we focus on a review of prices and basic quality criteria

Eh, to love is like a queen, to steal is like a million, to buy a table is like epoxy! If you are an adherent of just such views, then pay attention to the small nuances when choosing such furniture, so that later you do not complain about armless craftsmen.

It should be noted right away that any furniture made of epoxy is handmade. Therefore, the risk of marriage is high. Still human factor plays a decisive role in the manufacture of such furniture. What should it be quality table made of epoxy resin:

no chips, cracks, abrasions or other defects - even the smallest ones. Don’t be shy and look under the tabletop;
We look at the thickness of the tabletop - it should be the same on all sides. No slopes or distortions;
We carefully look at the epoxy - no bubbles, no matter how the seller explains that this is all necessary for greater decorativeness. Air bubbles in hardened epoxy resin are a sign of incorrect technology for working with it, this sharply reduces the quality of the final product;
whether you need glass on the surface or not is up to you to decide. Keep in mind that glass on a countertop is the most durable element, unlike epoxy resin and wood.

As already noted, tables made of epoxy resin are handmade. This means that such an exclusive will cost a lot. For example, small coffee tables can be bought in the price range from 11,000 to 30,000 rubles - or more. Dining and office desks cost from 50,000 rubles - it all depends on the model and the prices of the master. The prices presented are current as of September 2018.

Epoxy table manufacturing technology

For those who are itching to make their own table from epoxy resin, we will tell you how to do it correctly and inexpensively.

How to choose epoxy resin for a table - reviews and recommendations

After watching a bunch of videos about how easy and simple it is to work with epoxy resin, I just want to make a countertop with my own hands. But from what? For a beginner in this field, choosing an epoxy can be confusing. There are so many types and brands!

"ED-20" is one of the popular and inexpensive resins used for both furniture and decoration. It has earned its popularity due to its low cost. This plus is balanced by a minus – the yellowness of the products. Of course, yellowness does not develop immediately, but over time, and only if the poured resin was exposed to direct sun rays. It is also characterized by increased ductility, which is not good when working with resin, especially for beginners. To solve such problems, you can purchase a plasticizer for epoxy resin - for example, DBP EpoxyMax.

Review of plasticizer for epoxy resin DBP EpoxyMax:

More details on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_4632884.html.

"Art-Eco"– a crystal clear and transparent resin designed for working with products of small thickness, including countertops. It is recommended to use hardeners when working. Among the negative aspects, yellowness is noted on transparent products under direct sunlight. This drawback is eliminated by the use of dyes, which can also be purchased from this manufacturer.

"QTP-1130" – perfect option for pouring tables and countertops, provided that the thickness of the epoxy layer is no more than 3 mm. It is easy to work with - no additional plasticizers or hardeners are needed. It is self-leveling, which is very convenient for beginners.

"EP-SM-PRO"– inexpensive composite epoxy resin. Good for working with wood. Mixes homogeneously, practically no bubbles appear, good transparency, hardens completely and relatively quickly. It has a liquid consistency, which must be taken into account when forming the formwork - it can leak even through small cracks.

Feedback on working with epoxy resin Composite project EP-SM-PRO:

More details on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_6214951.html

"PEO-610KE", "EpoxyMaster 2.0", "EpoxAcast 690". Products made from these resins are not afraid and have crystal transparency. It is pleasant to work with such compositions - they are not viscous, harden quickly and completely, and have a slight tendency to self-leveling.

"ArtLine Crystal Epoxy"– suitable for working with both costume jewelry and for filling small-thickness tabletops. Liquid, transparent, easily leveled with a spatula. The products are transparent and without distortion. Bubbles practically do not form and are easily removed. Does not react very well with some types of dried flowers. If you work with exactly this type of filling, determine in advance whether there is a conflict between the epoxy and the herbarium. A review of the use of such epoxy resin is below.

Feedback on the use of ArtLine Crystal Epoxy epoxy resin:

More details on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_6603877.html

"MG-EPOX-STRONG"– epoxy resin universal purpose, more recommended for pouring specifically countertops and tables. Has excellent quality and performance characteristics. It's a pleasure to work with her. Suitable for pouring thick countertops and for working with various fillers - from weightless phosphorus to heavy pebbles and coins. At the same time, no yellowness, high mechanical strength and resistance to high temperatures.

A drawing is made, according to which the supporting structure, formwork and fillers, if any, are worked out in detail.
Depending on the type of epoxy resin selected, the consistency and appropriate dilution proportions are selected for further work.

Note! Some compounds are not diluted, you can work with them almost immediately - and this leads to an increase in the cost of the final product.

Fabrication of the supporting structure

In our small master class, we will look at how you can make a simple one from materials available to everyone, resulting in designer furniture.

Illustration	Description of action
	You will need: two circles of wood that will serve as a stand, glue, preferably epoxy-based, a thick furniture border, epoxy resin itself and filler - beer caps. Our master class uses a purchased design.
	We assemble the supporting structure. Thoroughly degrease the surface and prime.

Preparation of formwork and filling

We do the first fitting - lay out the filler around the perimeter of the tabletop to understand how thick the furniture tape should be.

Illustration	Description of action
	It all depends on the thickness of the decor; it needs to be buried in epoxy by at least half.
	We carefully glue the tape onto the tabletop, since this is not just formwork, but part of our table.
	We lay out the decor on the tabletop exactly as it will look in the final version. We remember the location and remove everything.
	Take the glue and apply it to back side covers.
	Glue all the covers to the tabletop. We do this carefully, since every smudge of glue will be visible on the transparent surface.

Preparation of epoxy

How to prepare epoxy resin - the instructions on the package will tell you. In our case, we used Epoxy Master 2.0. This two-component composition. If you need to add colors, add color only to component “A” until you get the desired shade. Mix thoroughly.

Note! In order for the pigment to dissolve better, we place it for a while near the battery or on water bath, the temperature of which will not be more than 40°C, but not less than 30°C. If the resin overheats, it can be thrown away.

Add component “B” - hardener, in a ratio of 100:35, as indicated in the instructions. Mix thoroughly. If bubbles suddenly form, the resin can be heated with a hairdryer, stirring until they evaporate. The shelf life of the resulting solution is approximately 7 hours.

How to properly pour epoxy resin on a countertop

The most important stage of work is filling with resin. The most important thing here is to follow the instructions exactly. Carefully pour in the diluted mixture from the middle. Under the weight of its gravity, it will begin to level out. If the countertop area is large, then expand the fill radius. When the entire volume to the edges of the formwork is filled, level the epoxy resin as carefully as possible with a trowel. If the surface is not level with the thickness of the formwork, add the missing grams as carefully as possible and level it again. We leave our tabletop to harden until the end.

In principle, we have received a final product that you can use for your pleasure. Using Epoxy Master 2.0 does not imply final sanding of the product. But if you still need it, we recommend watching a video of how to make a table from epoxy resin with your own hands.

Epoxy resin, although harmless in its hardened state, can cause irritation to the skin and mucous membranes when used. Therefore, we work with it only with rubber gloves. good quality– without the risk of sudden gaps. These gloves will need to be discarded immediately after one pouring session.

Also, don’t forget about glasses and a respirator. The latter may or may not be worn - it all depends on the type of epoxy used. We carefully read the instructions before purchasing. We also cover all parts of the body with clothing - no exposed skin. Be sure to work with epoxy only in well-ventilated areas where you and your household do not sleep or stay for more than 5 hours at a time. If the resin hardening time is more than 3 days, it is necessary to purchase dust and organic filters.

Tools

To make a coffee table with a concrete top rectangular shape, we need:

Wooden boards.
Wire mesh for strengthening concrete.
A piece of 1/2-inch chipboard or plywood to make the desired shape.
Drywall.
Screws.
Pneumatic nailer to attach the sides to the bottom panel.
Big plastic container for mixing cement.

Instructions for making a tabletop

Step 1: Making a box

Regardless of the size or shape of the countertop, the wire mesh should be two inches smaller in width and height than the chipboard or plywood panels.

We make a box of the shape and size we need from panels and gypsum board. Once the workpiece is completely ready, you can begin mixing the concrete.

Step 2: Pour the concrete

Mix the cement in a plastic container; for this you can use an ordinary shovel, which needs to thoroughly mix the mixture.
After this, carefully pour the concrete into the mold up to halfway, distributing it in the corners.
Cover wire mesh mixture, and then fill the mold to the top so that the mixture protrudes slightly from the top. This is done to make it easier to level the surface and make it smooth; for this purpose it is best to use a spatula.

TIP: After this, you need to leave the mold for several days for the cement to dry completely.

Step 3: Sanding

Then you need to remove mold and sand from the surface. Ideal for smoothing table tops sandpaper with 120 grit.

Then you need to wipe the surface well with a sponge, roller brush or soft cloth.

If you want to not cover the surface of the coffee table with anything, then it is best treat the countertop with concrete sealant, then it will look very beautiful and will be more practical.

Step 4: Attach the tabletop to the legs

Once the top of the coffee table is completely ready, you can use absolutely any base.
A very beautiful and practical option would be this table with wooden legs on wheels, making it easy to move.
Fastening the table top to the legs liquid nails or silicone glue.

Such an original concrete table will become a real decoration home decor and will make the interior irresistible.

Ideas and photos of countertops and tables made of concrete

With a flowerbed in the middle

For the dacha great option— when pouring concrete, leave a trench where you can plant flowers. Looks very amazing.

How to lighten the design

Ideal option and great idea- leave a hole in the middle and make a glass tab. To do this, you need to cut out a trench for the glass tab.
Also install a concrete countertop on legs with wheels- this is especially appropriate for coffee tables which often have to be moved.

Despite the fact that today you can buy or order any furniture, many prefer self-production furnishings. Most often, furniture is made from wood (solid wood, panels, waste), which has been repeatedly discussed on the portal, but today we will talk about something else universal material– concrete. In this article, the craftsmen of our portal pour concrete countertops for the office and kitchen, make a concrete sink, and implement other interesting projects.

Concrete kitchen countertop
Sink countertop with stone chips and kitchen island in gray

The use of concrete in the manufacture of furniture

Typically, concrete is associated with foundations, floors, screeds, stairs and similar massive products that are subject to high loads during operation. Initially, concrete was made only garden furniture, but today it is successfully used for home furnishings. The most common are monolithic kitchens, in which not only the concrete countertop is cast, but also the partitions. However, there are also:

concrete kitchen islands,
sinks with portals for bathrooms,
coffee tables,
consoles,
shelves,
window sills,
computer tables.

Such furniture is made either entirely from concrete or in combination with wood or other materials.

The composition of the solution is selected based on the scope of application, but in most cases it is cement sand mixture(CPS) with the addition of plasticizers. Depending on the desired result, various fine fillers are also introduced:

crushed stone,
granite,
marble chips,
coil and others.

In large products, such as countertops or consoles, be sure to use metal mesh or reinforcement frame (metal or composite).

The formwork for pouring is made either from smooth sheet materials(sheets of plywood, laminated plywood, laminate, chipboard), or from a board, but for better formwork, the board is covered with a thick plastic film.

There are two methods of casting - direct and reverse, in the first case the formwork is assembled on site, and the top of the pour will be the front side, in the second - the form is assembled and poured separately, when installed, the bottom becomes the top. When backfilling it is easier to achieve smooth surface and reduce the labor intensity of finishing.

To ensure that countertops, especially those with concrete sinks, look beautiful, repel moisture and are not damaged during use, the concrete is repeatedly ground and treated with special compounds - hardeners and water repellents.

As in the case of such finishing, it allows you to reveal the structure, add gloss and significantly increase the surface’s resistance to abrasion.

On our portal, the topic of concrete furniture was discovered several years ago by a participant with the nickname Dobermax, who shared the technology for pouring a console tabletop with his own hands for computer desk made of concrete.

Concrete table in red and monolithic consoles

Dobermax FORUMHOUSE Member

There was an old, shabby table in one of the corners of the apartment, and I just needed to rehearse with concrete, and I decided to create a concrete tabletop. I assembled the formwork and reinforcement into the walls, tied it together and poured it. The concrete countertop is ready.

For concreting, the craftsman used a standard DSP, a rough leveling mixture for the floor and a finishing self-leveling floor. The reinforcement is fiberglass, 4 mm thick, “recessed” into the wall by 8 cm (as far as the drill is enough), the frame is connected with a pitch of 15 cm.

First I filled it up necessary basis from CPS (sand concrete without filler), so that you don’t have to level it under finishing layer, poured a leveling mixture on top of the sand concrete. After stripping, the surface of the cement tabletop was well sanded, primed and glued along the edge polyurethane molding a few mm above the surface.

It not only protected the edge from chipping, and the household from a rather sharp edge, but also simplified the filling of the finishing composition. Since the “filler” is already tinted and has a pronounced gloss, no additional manipulations with the tabletop were needed.

After the concrete countertop has been made with your own hands, Dobermax I also poured a universal concrete console “window sill-table-bed” and something like a bar counter.

Dobermax

The point is that concrete “floats” in the air, being very strong and reliable. The technology is unique, but there is not much pain: formwork, reinforcement, pouring, grinding, finishing. I like the result.

Concrete kitchen countertop

The topic turned out to be in demand, and other connoisseurs of concrete countertops for the kitchen and other homemade products joined the discussion. Dmitrich069 originally planned to use ready-mixed concrete for filling kitchen countertop(thickness 50 mm), but as a result I settled on a regular DSP.

After curing, I sanded and polished the surface.

Dmitrich069 FORUMHOUSE Member

Turbo cup, grain 00, needed for rough processing concrete for countertops. The diamond grain is very large sizes, the slightest awkward movement, and a hole 1-2 mm deep. This happened to me when the casing for a vacuum cleaner was unscrewed and I got a deep hole from a disc in the shape of a semicircle. Then you need to close the pores - cement with water (1/2) and polishing with grain 50. Next, soft discs with rubber knitting (turtles), grain 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1500, 3000.

The craftsman advises to first completely sand the concrete (adjustable grinder, 3000-3500 rpm), and then impregnate it with a hardener and polish it, since even small marks cannot be removed after impregnation.

And one more nuance - the sand must be without clay and must be sifted through a fine sieve, otherwise during grinding the foreign inclusions will simply be torn out and shells will remain.

To remove the shells and marks from the diamond cup, I had to remove the entire hardened layer, re-sand with a bakelite wheel and polish (in three approaches with the hardener).

After impregnation with a water repellent, the color of the concrete countertop became richer and the appearance more refined.

Advice from topic participants - maintaining a protective layer over reinforcement cage, if it is less than 2 cm, cracks may occur. To prevent cracking, it is still advisable to add crushed stone or other stone filler.

Concrete countertop with bathroom sink and coffee table in black

Is on the forum and ready-made example execution of a concrete countertop with a sink for a bathroom.

Anrushka1 FORUMHOUSE Member

The sink is made of concrete, sand, screenings and cement, decorative elements and pebbles are visible on top, I regret that I didn’t add more of them. I made the formwork, reinforced it, poured it, when it dried - sanding with a rough wheel, then with flexible “turtles”. As a finish, it was coated with varnish for exterior use, which I also regretted; ordinary varnish, after prolonged exposure to water, begins to glow with blue highlights. It needed to be coated with polyurethane.

The craftsman first polished the main surface with a grinder with a hard wheel, for next stage work required Sander, hard-to-reach parts were passed manually. For the future Anrushka1 He advises everyone to treat such areas with their hands until the concrete for the countertop has completely set, and with a grinder - only when it has hardened. You will have to purchase several “turtles” for fine grinding.

Anrushka1

You need to take from the smaller grains and in order, you need to use everything, jump over only after 800 and then not much, you will kill the turtle quickly. They also come in sizes less than 1500, 2000, 3000, but since I varnished, the last 1000 was enough for me.