Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a private house. Electrical wiring in a private house step by step diagram

The importance of the electrical supply system in a private home is difficult to assess. Without it, living in a cottage today is simply unrealistic; all household appliances operate using power from outlets. In this case, the installation of wires and electrical equipment is carried out before finishing the interior. But the electrical wiring diagram should ideally be planned at the design stage of a residential building. To do this, it is necessary to make a power calculation and a corresponding electrical project indicating in it all the lighting devices and other electrical devices planned for use.

Drawing up a diagram

According to the law, the state guarantees a simplified connection to the electricity of a home to a private individual, provided that its electrical network consumes no more than 15 kW of power. If your plans do not include the use of heated floors or a powerful electric boiler, then in most cases these kilowatts are more than enough. You can even use well pumps and a low-power bench machine in the garage.

Typical house wiring diagram

A simplified procedure for electrifying a house involves:

submission of documents for connection to networks indicating the planned power consumption;
obtaining technical conditions (how many kilowatts will eventually be issued and from which pole);
preparation and approval of the electrical design of the cottage (if necessary);
installation of wiring and electrical equipment;
obtaining certificates of compliance of the in-house electrical power system with the project and its commissioning;
signing a power supply agreement with the supply company.

If a new consumer (facility) fits within 15 kW, then in many supplying organizations, when requesting specifications, they do not even require an electrical design of the building. They simply put a power limiter at the input. As a result, it will still not be possible to obtain more than the volume of electricity specified in the contract and technical conditions from the network.

And what happens in the house is the problem of its owner. At the same time, they prepare all the necessary documentation on the wires from the transformer to the input cabinet themselves.

However, many electricity suppliers continue to routinely demand a cottage power supply project when making connections. This document indicates the electrical wiring diagram of the house indicating the location of all sockets, switches and lighting fixtures. In any case, it is recommended to do it in order to clearly understand the layout of wires throughout the building and their required footage.

Drawing up and approval of the project

The internal electrical wiring project for a private house consists of:

calculation of power, input devices and required wire cross-section;
calculation of grounding and lightning protection systems;
electrical wiring diagrams;
layout plan for cable lines and power equipment in the building;
estimates for consumables.

Such a full-fledged project of in-house wiring is carried out only under a contract with a specialized company with a license. If it later has to be agreed upon with the supplier electrical energy, then drawings and calculations made independently will not be accepted for consideration.

You can only make an electrical and/or wiring diagram yourself, which will facilitate the work when installing electrical wiring yourself. They schematically indicate protection devices and wire lines to simplify the preparation of estimates and assembly of the entire system.

House wiring diagram

Phase selection

One of the most important points design and wiring diagrams is the type of input voltage. There is no need to analyze specifically here, such as, for example, the numerous pros and cons of a pile foundation. It can be single-phase or three-phase, 220 or 380 Volts. When choosing, you must proceed from the available capabilities of the supply transformer (which can be provided by power engineers) and current-consuming electrical equipment.

If you plan to install a powerful electric boiler or some device with a three-phase electric motor in a cottage or on a plot of land, then there is only one option - three phases at 380 V. The same solution will have to be used if all electricity consumers are designed for 220 V, but the total power is large . In this case, the wiring should be done in such a way as to distribute the load across different phases, and not leave it all on just one.

In other situations, when a private house the area does not exceed 100 square meters and there are no electric water heaters; you can get by with ordinary single-phase 220 V. The requirements for three-phase electrical wiring are higher. It costs more, but is not always needed. It should be taken into account that 380 V on three phases may be required in the future. And then the approvals will have to start all over again. Here everything needs to be weighed and foreseen in advance.

How to calculate power consumption when wiring

To calculate the total power consumption and the electrical wiring required for this at home, it is necessary to sum up the kilowatts of all household and lighting fixtures in the home. These parameters are available in equipment data sheets and in special tables. Plus, starting loads and 20% in reserve are added here.

The most energy-intensive in a cottage are instantaneous water heaters (about 4–5 kW), electric stoves with ovens (up to 3 kW), electric heaters (1.5–3 kW), vacuum cleaners (about 1.5 kW) and washing machines (about 2–3 kW). 2.5 kW). Ventilation in a private house also consumes a lot if it is made with supply and exhaust and heated air without a recuperator.

Average power consumption of household appliances

Light, especially if it is LED, requires relatively little (up to 0.5 kW). Televisions, computers and other household appliances currently consume approximately the same amount. But all this must be taken into account and added up in order to calculate the total power of the cottage. It is needed to obtain specifications and calculate the cross-section of electrical wiring.

Consumer groups

To ensure that the load in the intra-house network is distributed evenly, consumers are divided into several groups in the wiring diagram. For example, one goes to street lighting adjoining area, the second for outbuildings, the third for lighting fixtures in the cottage and the fourth for sockets in it. If the house is large, then such a breakdown can be made by floors and rooms.

Main consumption groups

Each individual line has its own automatic circuit breakers and RCDs (devices protective shutdown). This increases the safety of operation of the home electrical network and simplifies the search for problem points in the system when the protection is triggered. The electrical wiring diagram must indicate all protective devices and the current consumption on the circuit that is powered from each of them.

The group RCD and the wire cross-section behind it are selected so as to correspond to the consumption of a specific group. It is recommended to allocate your own power line for powerful equipment, but for other equipment the number of consumers should not be higher than 5–6 sockets. It is better to include more of them in the project, but with less risk of core burnout due to long-term overloads.

Electrical input and wiring installation

Protective devices are mounted in the input distribution panel, which is usually installed in a cottage in a frost-free room. Electrical wiring from all groups and an input cable from the street are also supplied there.

Inputting electricity into the house

In some cases, the electrical panel is divided into two - input and distribution. The first with a switch, meter and general RCD is installed outside, and the second with everything else inside the building. This will make it easier for inspectors to take readings. However, then the outdoor shield and the devices in it must be highly protected from moisture, which significantly increases their cost.

If the installation of electrical wiring in a cottage can be done independently, then the input cable is connected only by electricians from the network company. Moreover, they will do this only after checking the metering device and grounding system, as well as drawing up all the necessary reports.

By air

The easiest and cheapest way to install an air inlet is to install it. To do this, a self-supporting insulated wire (self-supporting insulated wire) or its usual steel analogue is thrown from the nearest power line support. However, this option of connecting the home electrical network to the village one is not always possible to implement due to regulatory restrictions on the distance from a residential building to a pole.

Requirements for electrical wires

Overhead cable:

It's cheap and quick to install.
It doesn't look very aesthetically pleasing.
Can be torn off over time (for example by wind or crane).
Limits the ability for large construction equipment to enter the site.

If the distance from the house to the pole is more than 20 meters, then you will have to install another support. Otherwise, the cable may break under its own weight. And these are additional costs.

Underground electrical wiring installation

The bushing laid in the ground is more reliable and less susceptible to precipitation. Such a cable is laid at a depth of about 0.8–1 meters in a protective pipe made of plastic or steel.

Pipes and structures for underground electrical wiring

This option provides excavation and making a hole in the foundation or wall. It is more difficult to install and time-consuming. However, the probability of a break in such an input power line is lower, and its service life is longer than that of its overhead counterpart.

Necessary calculations for underground electricity supply

Standard solutions for a private home

Electrical wiring diagrams and input and distribution boards are always developed individually for each specific home. Here a lot depends on those chosen for installation in the cottage. household appliances and the lighting created. However, there are a number of fundamental rules that must be followed when designing home electrical systems.

Schematic diagram of electrical wiring in a loop

House electrical wiring should be built according to the following principle:

The first from the input is a switch, with which you can cut off the power to the entire area at any time.
The second is the electric meter.
Then a general circuit breaker is installed.
Only then does it branch into consumption groups with separate RCDs or automatic switches.

Also, separate buses are installed in the electrical panel - one to ground (PE), the second to zero (N). The wires running on them should not intersect or connect with each other anywhere. These are two separate electrical circuits.

For any repairs in an apartment, private house or country house, as well as breakdown of any electrical wiring element, you need to know exactly where the wires go. Otherwise, this may lead to additional problems associated with finding electrical cables hidden in the wall or, even worse, getting the tool into a live wire. In this case, it is advisable to have a wiring diagram. But as often happens, it is not at hand, since when buying their own home no one is interested in this documentation. Therefore, it is advisable to understand the various power supply options, since they are standard in multi-apartment buildings.

Wire connection options

A person who understands what awaits him in the process of independently drawing up an electrical wiring diagram or who directly carries out the work of installing sockets, switches and light sources in his own apartment with his own hands must know the basic ways in which electrical circuits are connected.

If the homeowner is completely unaware of the installation of electrical circuits, then it is better to entrust all installation work in the apartment to professional electricians, who will quickly draw up a clear plan that includes even the smallest details, which will save on purchases Supplies.

Video: cable laying diagram in the house

How to install electrical wiring

The choice of scheme must be made with full awareness of the matter. First of all, this is due to the safety rules for using electrical circuits. Today there are three main wiring options.

The most popular way of wiring is to connect all the components of the network using distribution boxes. This scheme involves mounting the shield on landing in a specially equipped niche, and not in a living space. The panel contains a device for monitoring consumed electricity and several packets. Electricity is supplied to the apartment via a cable, which is distributed to rooms using distribution boxes.
The “Star” wiring diagram implies that each element is connected with a separate line connected directly to the panel through an automatic toggle switch. With such wiring, the consumption of wires, physical work and the cost of the project as a whole increases significantly. But having assessed all the advantages and disadvantages, it becomes clear that all costs are justified, since the system provides the opportunity to fully control each consumer separately.
The “Loop” diagram is similar to the previous version of the electrical wiring. This option has only one distinctive feature, which is the connection of several consumers to one cable. This reduces the volume installation work and consumables, which leads to a reduction in project costs.

In most cases, the wiring diagram involves a combination of several cable routing methods at the same time. At the same time, it is very important to think through everything to the smallest detail in order to ultimately achieve maximum efficiency and safety of the electrical circuit.

Standard scheme

Before starting installation work, it is advisable to implement all ideas for arranging electrical circuits in a detailed diagram laid out on a sheet of paper. In this case, it is important to take into account the layout of each individual room, which will allow you to calculate the number of distribution groups and elements of the electrical network. For convenience, each group can be performed in a separate diagram.

From practice it has been revealed that maximum wiring efficiency is achieved by combining consumption sources into several groups, each of which is connected to a separate automatic batcher. Thanks to this technical solution facilitates further repairs and maintenance electrical network without the need to turn off power to the entire apartment. In addition, connecting all consumers to one line is only possible if there is a cable with a large cross-section that can withstand the increased load that occurs when all electrical appliances in the apartment are turned on simultaneously.

When the panel is placed directly in the living room, it becomes possible to connect electrical appliances to individual circuit breakers. This significantly increases the efficiency and safety of using the electrical network. But, in this case, why has not such a scheme found widespread use? Everything is quite simple - this option for connecting devices to the network alternating current significantly increases the costs of project implementation. Therefore, consumers are divided into the following groups:

lighting group of residential premises and corridor;
supply of electricity to the rooms;
electricity supply in the kitchen and hallway;
supply of light and electricity to the bathroom and bathroom. Wherein this group implies increased danger due to constantly high humidity;
If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, then its connection must also be made separately.

To ensure maximum safety of electrical installations, each group must be equipped with an RCD - a special protective device, which is nothing more than a differential circuit breaker at maximum current values. It is also necessary to equip the wiring in the bathroom and kitchen with such protective devices.

After the final formation of the main groups, it is necessary to determine in what places the consumers will be placed, such as an electric stove, a water heater, an air conditioner, etc. On next stage mark the installation of switches, distribution boxes, lamps and sockets. In this case, all elements must be included in the electrical wiring diagram, based on which the number of wires can be calculated.

It is very important that the electrical wiring diagram be drawn up in several copies, one of which must be saved for the future. Once all the details have been taken into account, you can draw up a detailed finishing drawing in accordance with the exact plan of each room.

All installation points of electrical elements are marked on the diagram in accordance with the generally accepted notation system and are connected by lines indicating wires. To improve the readability of the diagram, it is advisable to designate different groups of wires in different colors.

The diagram must necessarily include all dimensions of the premises, distances from the electrical panel to sockets, switches and lighting sources, etc. Such a detailed plan will allow you to carry out high-quality installation work and calculate all the necessary consumables in the shortest possible time, which will make it possible to plan expenses.

Video: electrical wiring diagram in an apartment

In order to correctly make an apartment wiring diagram, you should know some important requirements for laying wires in residential buildings.

The bathroom is not supplied with sockets, except for one connected via a transformer for turning on appliances low voltage, such as an electric razor.
It is unacceptable to connect the grounding of the socket to the neutral terminal. It is also strictly forbidden to ground wiring elements to a battery or water supply. This is unsafe for apartment residents.
If the kitchen has a stove connected to the AC network or other powerful consumers, then the main machine must be of a large rating so that false alarms do not occur.
Wiring should only be done in a vertical or horizontal direction.
Changing the direction of wiring may result in the risk of hitting a live wire with a nail or drill during repairs. Crossing cables is also prohibited.
It is important that electrical wires pass at a distance of 15 cm from the surface of the floor or ceiling, as well as window and door frames And external corners premises.
The distance from the heating pipes or water supply should not be less than 3 cm. The wiring to the socket should be approached from the bottom, while to the switch from the top.

It is advisable that all sockets and switches installed by yourself be located on the same level. So, for sockets, the acceptable height from the floor is 30 cm, while for switches the height is from 80 cm to 1 m. Naturally, if necessary, these parameters can be changed to suit the needs of the apartment residents.

How to do your own wiring

To lay electrical wires in an apartment, you must strictly follow the prepared diagram. In this case, there is a certain sequence of carrying out similar works with your own hands.

To correctly connect the wires, it uses three different methods - using terminals, soldering or twisting, which can be viewed in the video. The first two are considered the most effective in use, since they are considered the most reliable and have high degree security, although they are more difficult to do yourself.

Video: installation of electrical wiring

Which wires to choose

To properly install electrical wiring in an apartment, you need to buy suitable wires. At the same time, copper cable is considered the best for wiring for the simple reason that it has maximum flexibility, is less brittle and has high current conductivity. It is also more convenient to install, unlike its aluminum counterpart.

In apartments, in most cases, wires with two or three cores are laid with a cross-section of 2.5–3 square mm for sockets and 1.5 for switches and lamps. For more powerful consumers, a separate line with wires larger than 3 mm square is laid, which will allow them not to overheat.

The wiring diagram can easily be drawn up and implemented independently. But responsibility for the quality of its work and the safety of residents will rest with the person who carried out the installation work. Therefore, at least minimal knowledge in this area is welcome.

Video: how to choose the right cable cross-section

Today, in every home you can find a variety of household electrical appliances, but few people know how to properly install electrical wiring in a private home. If you want to save money, then this knowledge will help in such painstaking work. Installing wiring is a rather labor-intensive process, but nevertheless, even a novice electrician can do it. If you are ready to do it yourself and have the necessary ones at hand, or simply want to supervise a hired electrician, we will look at the whole process step by step.

Sequence of work when installing electrical wiring in a house

Electrical wiring in a private house is done before finishing work begins. The frame of the house is out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work.

Determination of input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
Development of a scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that the technical specifications will not always determine your declared power; most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
Selection of components and components, purchase of meters, machines, cables, etc.
Input of electrics from the pole into the house. Performed by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - overhead or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
Install the panel, bring electricity into the house.
inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
Ground loop design and its connection.
and receiving the act.
Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan; each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start by obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the electrical network and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption.

It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, you will probably be able to build a wall on which you can put a machine and a counter.

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for electrifying your home. Take a scale plan of the house and draw where the equipment will be located, figure out where to place the sockets and switches.

In this case, you need to take into account where any large-sized furniture will be located, and where it can be rearranged, so that sockets and switches are not placed in these areas.

All lighting fixtures will need to be drawn on the plan: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on.

For example, in the kitchen there is a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also equipment that turns on periodically. All this is plotted on the plan, and the optimal one is determined. The same approach applies to each of the rooms.

How to do the wiring in the house with your own hands

Before starting work, read the Electrical Installation Rules (ELD), which outline the basics of working with the equipment.

free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required.
they are mounted at a level of 60-150cm from the floor; opening doors should not block access.
the cable is brought in from above;
The installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electric and gas stoves, heating radiators, and pipes.
Power supply is provided from below.
The number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6 sq.m. This rule does not apply to the kitchen; sockets are installed here according to the number of household appliances.
To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to reduce the voltage).
The cable is laid with strict adherence to vertical and horizontal (without bends or diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation).
horizontal ones are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening.
The distance to gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
The wiring must not come into contact with building structures made of metal.
Special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. Forbidden .

Electrical wiring diagram in a private house

All electrical work in the house begins with design detailed plan and diagrams. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the location of installation of devices and laying of cables; it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances. To simplify wiring, consumers are divided into groups.

The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection diagram, distributes the load and saves materials. The electrical wiring diagram of a country house differs from that of an apartment in the method of cabling: in a multi-storey house it starts from the floor panel.

Electricity in a private home requires connection from an overhead line or from an external distributor.

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is used for electrical wiring for lighting fixtures.

Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule; it may be more convenient or expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out in a separate group.

Then the sockets are divided into groups. How much you can “put” on one wire depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more.

It is better to allocate a separate power supply line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you may have three to seven lines running into the kitchen - this is where the equipment is most abundant and powerful too: for an electric boiler and electric stove, separate lines are absolutely needed. It is better to “plant” the refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, and washing machine separately. Not so powerful blender, food processor etc. can be included in one line.

There are usually two to four lines to the rooms: in modern home and in any room there is something to plug into the electrical network. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets into which you will need to plug in your computer, router, TV, and phone charger.

All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you intend to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you will need separate lines.

If a private house is small, then there may be two or three groups: one for all lighting fixtures, the second for the street, and the third for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the number of units of electrical equipment in it.

The number of groups in the house is determined by the number of groups received: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to include something new powerful, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc. .).

The distribution panel and the number of machines in it are selected based on the number of groups: there is a separate machine for each group. If a private house is large, with several floors, then it makes sense to install more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Why is a wiring diagram necessary?

First of all, the diagram is necessary to compile a list of necessary consumables. That is, having a diagram at hand, the length of the wire, the cross-section of the wire in individual sections, required amount sockets and switches, distribution boxes and their locations.

Also, a wiring diagram is necessary to determine the installation location and location of power wiring elements, such as: distribution board, metering devices (meters), input of power wires and cables.

Meals in a private home usually come at overhead line 0.4 kV. From the overhead line support, a phase wire L and a combined neutral protective and working PEN (single-phase power) come to the input electrical panel.

Recently, energy supply organizations have been installing meters on the street, in the incoming electrical panel (previously, meters were installed inside the house). Therefore, an electric meter and an input circuit breaker are installed in the input electrical panel (you can also install an input selective-action RCD).

From the input panel, the supply wire or cable is laid to the internal electrical panel located directly inside the house.

The power supply to the house begins from this internal electrical panel. To make the power supply more reliable, consumers are divided into groups.

Lighting.
Rosette group.
Power group (boiler, washing machine, boiler).
Household needs (outbuildings, garage, basement, etc.).

Separate protection devices (circuit breakers, RCDs) are installed in the internal electrical panel for each group of consumers.

Also, to draw up a wiring diagram in a private house, you need to have a plan of the house itself. Knowing the house plan drawing, you can superficially display the wiring diagram.

The installation location of the shield is not regulated by regulations. There are only restrictions regarding the distance from the pipelines; it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many people install a panel in the boiler room: since it’s a technical room, it makes sense to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities do not make any claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no claims.

Determination of current strength

An important point when planning electrical wiring is the calculation of the current strength in the electrical network. Knowing this load indicator, you can accurately determine which machine and cable with the appropriate cross-section are needed.

The planned load can be calculated using the formula: Current = Total power of household appliances (W) / Network voltage (V). For example: eight 60 W lamps, 1600 W electric kettle, 350 W refrigerator, 1200 W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V.

Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A. Typical home consumption does not exceed 25 Amps. Determining the size An equally important task is to determine the cross-section of the cables that will be used for electrical distribution.

The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. A mismatch between the cross-section and the load will result in overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and fire. You can determine the required cable size using the table.

For example, if the estimated current is 16.5A, closed wiring using copper wires is planned, then a cable of at least 2 kV is required. mm. For 25 Amps – 4 mm2. For different distribution groups, a cable is taken in accordance with the expected load.

Due to the fact that the table indicates the maximum exact values, but in fact there are frequent fluctuations in current strength, a certain cross-sectional reserve is needed. To determine the cable length, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.

Current cross-section conductive lived, mm	Copper conductors of wires and cables
	Voltage 220V		Voltage 380V
	Current, A	power, kWt	Current, A	power, kWt
1,5	19	4,1	16	10,5
2,5	27	5,9	25	16,5
4	38	8,3	30	19,8
6	46	10,1	40	26,4
10	70	15,4	50	33
16	85	18,7	75	49,5
25	115	25,3	90	59,4
35	135	29,7	115	75,9
50	175	38,5	145	95,7
70	215	47,3	180	118,8
95	260	57,2	220	145,2
120	300	66	260	171,6

A lighting panel is installed near the entrance to the apartment, into which residual current devices are installed and wires are connected. Typically, for a network of switches and lighting, it is assumed to install a 16 A RCD, 20 A sockets. An electric stove requires a more powerful installation - 32 A and is connected separately.

Selection of cables and components

Today's standard wiring diagram for a private house includes two circuit breakers. One - input - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter are sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the panel.

The operation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the circuit breaker installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in the event of an emergency, you will not need to crawl under the roof.

If the design load is less than 15 kW, the input circuit breaker is set to 25 A. The meter is selected accordingly. For higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer; its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they are required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not supported by law; it is simply easier for the electricity service to control consumption.

If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a meter and machine in a case with increased dust and moisture resistance - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection must be less - IP-44, and accordingly the price will be lower.

Which wire to use for wiring in the house

And so, to install electrical wiring, the owner of a private house needs to stock up on a certain amount of cable and electrical accessories (we will consider its types below). The cable can be copper or aluminum. Of course it must have insulation.

It is better to use copper cable. The reason for this is that it has more throughput. This makes it possible to use wire with a smaller cross-section.

Another advantage of a copper cable is that it can withstand a greater load than an electrical wire made of aluminum.

It’s also worth saying about this moment. A private house can be supplied with both single-phase and three-phase power. In the case when it is necessary to supply current to single-phase devices, the cable must be three-core.

One conductor is phase, the other is neutral, and the third is intended for grounding. In case of laying three-phase power, the cable must be five-core.

For wiring, both flat (convenient to install under plaster) and round cables can be used. Their important characteristic is the cross section.

The choice of electrical wire with a certain cross-section depends on the load level. So, if a wire is laid to the sockets, then this value should be at least 2.5 square meters. millimeters. Cables for powering lighting devices must have a cross-section that is at least 1.5 square meters. millimeters.

In order not to make a mistake with the section electric wire, you need to calculate the power of all possible devices that will be powered from a separate wire. Of course, you need to take into account some amount as a reserve.

After this, the total power must be divided into 220 (if one phase enters the house) or 380 volts (if there is a three-phase network). As a result, you will know the current that the cable must carry.

Based on this value, you can determine the desired cross-section. To do this, you need to use special tables.

Necessary electrical accessories and requirements for them

mounting boxes;
sockets;
any types of switches;
switches;
call buttons and other types.

Mounting boxes are used in any room and can be characterized by different shapes. So, their shape can be round, square or rectangular. The purpose of these boxes may vary.

Some of them are used to install sockets or switches. They are mounted under the plaster and do not have a top cover. There are also boxes that are also installed under the plaster, but have a lid. They are either distributional or through.

In addition to these, there are also external (outer) boxes. It is worth noting that most boxes are not sealed. However, some are sealed.

Helpful advice: Various wires are often connected and routed in these boxes. To connect them you need to use a distribution ring and. If you simply twist the wires and use insulating tape, then such a connection will be unreliable. The result is sparking in the box. And that's the minimum.

As for sockets, now you need to use sockets with three poles. The third pole is a safety contact that connects to the ground wire.

It is also worth mentioning the fact that it is recommended to use double sockets. They will make it possible to reduce the number of doubles or tees.

Both sockets and switches may or may not be sealed. It is advisable to use sealed electrical accessories on the external walls of a private house, on a balcony, porch, etc.

So, you should stock up on materials before you begin installing wiring inside and outside a private house.

If we talk about the principle of laying electrical wiring in a private house, then it is not much different from the same process within the walls of an apartment.

The main difference is that a private house can have several floors and, in addition to many household appliances, it can also use powerful electrical appliances that are part of heating, water supply systems or are intended for certain industrial purposes.

Another difference is receiving current from various sources. A private house receives current from a local transformer or from a power pole.

How to plan wiring

In order for the process of laying wiring to be carried out very competently and at the same time the wiring to serve for a long time, it is necessary to carry out proper planning for its implementation. In other words, you need to make a diagram.

This list must be compiled for each room and each auxiliary building. When developing this list, it is worth considering that in the future the list of electrical appliances will only expand.

Taking this into account, you need to decide where and how additional devices will be connected.

In the process of planning the placement of outlets, it is also worth deciding on the location of electrical appliances and other electrical “users” that will be used in the future.

That is, you need to decide where the chandeliers will be placed, where the TV will be, and where the refrigerator and other devices will be placed.

It would not be superfluous to determine the connection points for those electrical installations that will be used outside the house, that is, in the yard or landscaped area.

When this work is done, we begin to draw up a wiring diagram that will be used in a private house. Drawing up such a diagram is very important. Thanks to it, it will be possible to determine all the required quantities of materials.

At the same time, during installation you will not forget to install some kind of socket or run a certain cable. Another advantage of this arrangement is that in the future, when making repairs, you will know where all the electrical wires run.

This will eliminate any possibility of accidental damage to the cable during repair work.

What should the wiring be like?

It is worth noting that drawing up a diagram has its secrets. These secrets concern the correct routing of cables and their wiring. Let's note how to do the wiring correctly.

So, electricity enters a private house through an electric meter. After it, a distribution board is installed. It is from this shield that the wiring of various wires begins. Each of them can be called a circuit.

The number of these circuits directly depends on the number of rooms in a private house and electrical devices that are planned to be used. A small private house may have only two circuits.

One of them is assigned for sockets, the other for lighting fixtures.

Helpful advice: when drawing up any wiring diagram, regardless of the size of a private house, there should always be a separate wiring for lighting and a separate wiring for sockets.

The reason for this is that lighting fixtures and appliances plugged into outlets have different wattages. As a result, powering light fixtures requires thinner wires than powering a refrigerator, microwave, or any other electrical device.

In fact, this advice can be called mandatory. This will save on the purchase of cables. Otherwise, that is, if you connect both sockets and lamps to the same wiring, then if the cable burns out or shorts, you will not be able to use any device or lamp that is connected to this wire.

It should be borne in mind that it is better to organize a wiring diagram that will provide for the wiring of more circuits than a private house requires. This will reduce stress on the wires and eliminate the need for additional wiring in the future.

A mandatory rule is to equip each circuit with a circuit breaker. The group of circuits must also be connected to a differential relay (RCD). Both the switch and the RCD are mounted in the distribution panel.

When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account one more nuance: there are electrical appliances that have more power (water pump or electric stove). For them you need to use a cable with a large cross-section. Of course, this cable will be a separate circuit.

If a private house consists of several floors, then electricity must be supplied to each floor through a separate wiring. Experts recommend connecting rooms separately.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the requirements for electrical wiring in some rooms are more stringent. The list of these rooms includes those that are characterized by the constant presence of water and high levels of humidity. An example is a bathroom, toilet or laundry room.

The main requirement for these rooms is to move all switches outside of them. That is, switches cannot be installed in the middle of them. Compliance with this requirement will increase the level of safety.

As for other rooms, you can use switches in them. It is advisable that they be at a height of 90-140 centimeters. In this case, the distance between the wooden door frame and the switch should be 15 centimeters.

The switch should be on the same side of the door as the handle. The circuit must also include a grounding circuit.

Once you have made the wiring diagram, you can begin installing each wire and all electrical accessories. One of the main processes is wiring installation. It can be carried out in various ways.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house

After all the preliminary calculations, the installation itself will not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and observe safety precautions. The first stage is marking. Use a marker to mark the cable laying line. Next, we mark the location of lamps, sockets and SCHO (disconnection panel).

At the second stage, we tap the walls, if hidden wiring is required, or install it in an open way. Holes for equipment are made with a hammer drill using a crown attachment.

Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond disks) or a hammer drill, make grooves for the cable about 20 mm deep, the width of which should comfortably accommodate the wires.

On the ceiling, the cable can be attached to the ceiling and hidden decorative ceiling. You can also hide the wiring in the voids of the floors by making input/output holes and tighten it there. Next, using a hammer drill, holes are made in the corner of the room to insert the cable through the wall.

Now you can proceed directly to installation. First, you need to install a circuit breaker into which the RCD is connected. A SCHO ready for connection has zero terminals at the top, grounding terminals at the bottom, and circuit breakers between them.

To connect the input cable to the ShchO, the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to the ground - yellow with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer).

The machines are connected from above in series with a jumper made of white wire or a special copper bus factory production. Now you can install the wiring.

Open mounting option

Installation open wiring is performed in the following sequence: According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. We fasten with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters. We install distribution boxes, sockets and switches.

Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and secure. We lay the cable from the sockets to the ShchO, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires. We run a VVG - 3*1.5 cable from the lamps and switches to the distribution box.

Wire strands in junction boxes are connected by color using clamps (PPE caps) or using terminals fast connection WAGO type. VVG cable 3*2.5 V ShchO is attached with a phase (brown or red core) to the RCD, zero ( of blue color) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wire with a green stripe) is at the bottom.

Now ready-made diagram“calls” the tester. If everything is fine, then we invite an electrician.

Hidden wiring

In the hidden version, the installation of wiring differs only in that the wire is laid using special corrugations, which are placed in previously prepared grooves, which will allow, if necessary, to replace the wiring without destroying the finish.

Socket boxes and distribution boxes are installed in the made niches. Upon completion of all work, the grooves are sealed with plaster; you can use gypsum putty to seal the wiring.

Using installation boxes

If we talk about open wiring of electrical communications inside a private house, then it is advisable to use installation boxes for its installation.

These boxes have a fairly aesthetic appearance and are used for installing the electrical network after the owner has completed finishing and painting the walls. Thanks to them, you can change electrical wiring without destroying the plaster of the walls.

Such boxes can be mounted along the ceiling, floor or door frame. They may have one, two or more channels. Of course, each of these channels can be used for laying different cables.

The material from which installation boxes are made is either plastic or aluminum. Inner side The aluminum box is covered with plastic.

The bottom side is perforated. It is worth noting that the use of these boxes is very beneficial since they can be easily cut and bent. This makes it possible to customize them to fit any room size.

The sizes of these boxes may vary. It is advisable to use very large boxes in cases where wiring is used to power various types of equipment.

To ensure that they do not stand out against the background of the interior, you can choose a trim or cover that has a color that matches the design. Sockets are installed on top of these boxes.

It should be kept in mind that each outlet that is installed with exposed wiring must have a fully protective enclosure. This socket is mounted directly on the wall. The same are the requirements for switches that will be used in the case of open wiring.

Quite often, private houses have rooms with a large area. And if there is a need to place several electrical appliances at a certain distance from the wall and the owner does not want to stretch the cable along the floor, a floor box can be built into the floor. Of course, the cable will already go under the floor.

Using a floor box will eliminate the presence of loose wires that can lie on the floor and create obstructions while driving. Such boxes are mounted in the floor and are located at the same level as the floor.

In this case, the box lid can be designed in the style of the floor. As a result, the floor box will not be an obstacle and will not become a thing that spoils the design. Moreover, it is characterized by tightness, which does not create any risks during wet cleaning.

After all the installation work has been done, the electrical wiring needs to be checked. This process should not be limited to simply turning on the lamp and checking whether it lights up.

You need to determine whether all the elements required by the circuit are installed, whether the RCDs and circuit breakers are working, and how good the grounding connection is. You should also check the reliability of the fastening of switches, sockets and other elements.

A large percentage of electrical wiring problems come from poor wire connections.

Twisting.

Only homogeneous metals, or those that do not enter into contact, can combine in this way. chemical reaction. It is strictly forbidden to twist copper and aluminum. In other cases, the length of bare conductors must be at least 40 mm. The two wires are connected to each other as tightly as possible, the turns are laid one next to the other.

The connection is wrapped with electrical tape on top and/or packaged heat shrink tube. If you want the contact to be 100% and losses to be minimal, do not be too lazy to solder the twist. In general, according to modern standards, this type of wire connection is considered unreliable.

Connection via terminal box with screw terminals.

The housing is made of heat-resistant plastic and contains metal terminals that are tightened with screws. The conductor, stripped of insulation, is inserted into the socket and secured with a screw or a screwdriver. This type of connection is the most reliable.

Connecting blocks with springs.

In these devices, contact is provided by a spring. A bare conductor is inserted into the socket and clamped by a spring.

Still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Installing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires are connected to each other, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged anywhere.

If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Once connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to sign the machine immediately: it will be easier to navigate.

After finishing the electrical wiring throughout the house and checking everything yourself, they call electrical laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and based on the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it you will not be given permission to put into operation.

indicator screwdriver;
tester;
perforator;
hammer;
pliers;
screwdrivers;
wall chaser;
insulating tape.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house must take into account the requirements for the location of switches and sockets. In rooms with high humidity (bathroom, sauna), the use of plug sockets and the installation of switches is prohibited.

Connecting an electric razor socket to the network is only possible through a transformer.

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house

Installing an electrical cable in a private house will require special safety measures, especially if the house is wooden. Wiring in such a home is carried out taking into account the following requirements: Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used. Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.

All connections are sealed. Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls or ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators. Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes and steel boxes and must be grounded.

When using plastic corrugations and boxes, they are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing. An additional step to increase the safety of a wooden home is the installation of an RCD (differential relay), which reacts to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house price

We offer users a table of average prices on the market:

Type of service	Description	Price, rub)
Electrical panel installation	1 piece	3000-7000
Installation of the machine	1 piece	500-700
Laying electrical wiring in a wooden house	for 1 sq. m. room area	650-800
Installation of electrical wiring in a brick private house without gating		1000-1300
Installation of electrical wiring in a brick private house with gating	for 1 sq. m. room area	1400-1600
Installation of socket, switch	1 piece	850-1150
Installation of a distribution box in a recess	1 piece	850-1100
Installation of overhead distribution box	1 piece	400-600

You need to understand that installing electrical wiring in a private house is a little more expensive than in an apartment. All prices do not include the cost of materials. In addition, calling a specialist to draw up an estimate and developing a house electrical project are calculated separately.

Bottom line

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. And if you study this issue well before carrying out electrical wiring, the work process will not cause any particular difficulties, and the result will please you.

Every master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting work, you will be able to appreciate the quality and know what you are paying for.

Convenience and comfort modern life largely dependent on electricity. In every house or apartment, several household electrical appliances must be used at once to provide lighting, hot water supply, heating, food preservation, air conditioning and ventilation. For reliable operation of electrical appliances, proper electrical wiring is necessary. Each owner has the right to decide how household appliances will be placed in his home, and where sockets and switches should be located to connect them. But the question is, is it worth using the services of professional electricians when installing electrical wiring, or can you do the electrical wiring in the apartment yourself?

Where to start installing electrical wiring in an apartment

Work on installing electrical wiring in an apartment or other residential premises should always begin the same way - with drawing up an electrical wiring plan. And that's why. Let's say you made a renovation without really thinking about the end result. They did it as they wanted.

We rearranged the furniture and arranged the household electronics. So what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets were in “cold reserve”: one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers, and a fourth by a bedside table. Even to connect a TV and favorite stereo system, as per the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters.

And this is where the very fun and exciting game entitled “Scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment.” The question arises: why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Imagine how much money and nerves can be wasted.

Wiring plan

Let's say you have an apartment in a new building, which still needs to be renovated before you move in.

Electrical work in an apartment is usually done first. Before starting electrical work, it is advisable to have a wiring plan. In the very simple version it can be done by hand on a piece of paper.

Drawing a wiring plan

So, you consulted with your household and made your decision. Now all the ideas and plans need to be transferred to paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's as clear example Let's take a standard one-room apartment.

notebook sheet;
ruler;
pen;
colored pencils or markers.

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions are required, just a general picture.

An example of an apartment wiring plan

Sockets.
They can be located in any convenient location, but no less than 15–20 cm from door and window openings, as well as 40 cm away from heat and gas pipelines. As for the quantity, it is customary to install one socket for every 6 m 2 of area.
Lighting.
Standard layouts are designed for one large lamp in the center of the ceiling. But you can, if you wish, make additional light sources (spotlights, sconces, night lights), providing wiring for them.
Switches.
They are usually mounted with right side from the doorway and at a distance of 60 or 150 cm from the floor.
Cable routes.
When indicating them on your drawing, remember that the wiring must run strictly vertically or horizontally. No zigzags are allowed. If you plan to lay wires inside walls, then you should retreat 15–20 cm from ceilings and openings.
Distribution boxes.
They also need to be shown on the plan because they are where all the major cable connections are made. A box is placed on each branch from the main line, but no more than one per room.
Distribution panel.
Typically, power cabinets are installed outside the apartment in a common corridor. But some layouts are designed for internal placement of the shield, in which case the task will be a little simpler.

Marking

One way or another, between drawing up the plan and starting the rough work, there will be a procedure called “marking”.

Speaking scientific language, marking is the operation of applying lines (scores) to the surface of the workpiece, defining, according to the drawing, the contours of the part or place to be processed.

At the initial stages of work on distributing electricity in a room, markings are made as follows:

First of all, the locations of sockets and switches, as well as the locations of cable outlets under household appliances;
Next, the lines along which it will be produced are outlined;
locations for distribution boxes are determined;
the location where the apartment electrical panel will be installed is selected;
after this, the routes of cable routes from the electrical distribution panel to a specific electrical point are marked.

In most cases, changes in the electrical wiring diagram of an apartment are easier to make at the initial stage of work, namely at the marking stage. In this case, time and financial resources, since possible changes will entail additional costs.

lighting of living rooms, kitchens and corridors;
power supply for living rooms;
power supply to the kitchen and corridors;
lighting and power supply for the bathroom.

If the apartment has an electric stove, it must be separated into a separate group.

To increase safety, do not forget to install (RCDs), so-called residual current switches, on each group. They are also required to supply the electrical wiring of the bathroom and kitchen.

After the groups are designed, it is necessary to determine the connection points of all the main consumers of electricity. This includes a washing machine, electric stove, air conditioner, water heater, oven and dishwasher.

Now you can determine the installation locations of switches, lamps, junction boxes and sockets, and then apply them to the draft electrical plan of the apartment. Carefully connect all the circuits and mark the wire lengths.

Be sure to make two copies of the apartment’s electrical plan and put one of them in the family archive with documents. It will come in handy more than once.

Now the final electrical circuit is drawn up. To do this, an exact plan of all rooms is depicted on each sheet, taking into account all dimensions.

All electrical points on the electrical circuit are marked using generally accepted symbols and are connected by lines indicating wires. For better readability, we recommend lighting, grounding and power cables marked with different colors.

Be sure to mark all distances: linear dimensions rooms, distances from wires to walls, ceilings, floors, as well as to heating systems. Such a diagram will not only be more visual, but it will also be possible to make all the necessary calculations.

Requirements, rules, norms

When drawing up a diagram there are some things to keep in mind: important requirements to the location of electrical wiring in residential premises.

Do not connect the grounding contacts of sockets to the neutral wires, as well as to the water supply or heating system. It's dangerous for human life. There is a protective ground wire for this purpose.

If the apartment has an electric stove rather than a gas one, then the main circuit breaker must have a rating of at least 63A.

The wires are laid only vertically and horizontally, positioned strictly at right angles to each other.

You should not change their trajectory; in the future, this risks increasing the likelihood of the wires being punctured by a nail or drill when performing minor repair work. Crossing wires should be avoided. If this is not possible, then the distance between them should be more than 3 mm.

When setting dimensions on the plan, it is necessary to ensure that the distance from the cable to the floor or ceiling is at least 150 mm, up to window frames, door jambs and corners - at least 100 mm. It is better to place all switches and sockets at the same height.

In this case, the switches are installed to the left of entrance doors at a height of 800-900 mm, and sockets - 250-300 mm. In some cases, such as in the kitchen, the distance may vary. The gap between the heating pipes and wires must be at least 30 mm. Wires are connected to sockets from below, and to switches from above.

Features of installing electrical wiring in rooms with high humidity

Until now, it was believed that installing a socket in a bathroom was prohibited. Indeed, the ban existed until 1996. A bathroom is a room with a damp environment, water taps, a large number of conductive pipelines and a steel bathtub, which poses an increased electrical hazard.

The ban has long been lifted, partly due to the widespread modern means electrical safety.

through a residual current device (RCD) with an operating current not exceeding 30 mA;
the electrical wiring must have a connected grounding contact (protective zero TN-S);
sockets should be located no closer than 60 cm from the doors of a closed shower stall;
at a height of at least 130 cm from the floor level.

How to properly conduct electrical wiring

on the first one, you should draw a plan for the location of switches and lighting equipment;
and on the second - sockets.

After this, the clients of the electrical circuit should be divided into groups.

lighting fixtures for living quarters, kitchen and hallway (10A automatic);
sockets in living rooms (25 A circuit breaker);
sockets in the kitchen and hallway (25 A circuit breaker);
lighting fixtures and sockets in the bathroom (these clients are grouped together because they work in a humid environment and have serious requirements).

For each household equipment, one group is allocated with a 25 or 32 A automatic machine. The equipment is divided into groups due to some nuances.

If all the equipment that consumes electricity is connected to one machine, then you will need a very thick cable that can withstand such a load. You will also have to buy an automatic machine designed for high power, and this will be quite expensive.

If one of the network elements breaks down, you will have to turn off the power to the entire apartment in order to begin restoration work.

When the electrical wiring diagram is in one-room apartment ready, it is necessary to determine the number of all electricity consumers. You will have to calculate the required number of outlets based on the number of electrically powered equipment you already have, and also take into account future purchases.

Then you need to correctly position all sockets and switches.

switches and sockets should be placed to the left of the door;
in living rooms and hallways, sockets should be at a height of 0.4 meters, in the kitchen at a height of 0.95-1.15 meters;
switches should be located at a height of 0.9 meters;
It is necessary to mark the locations of switches and sockets in the diagram.

Then you should run the wires from the switches and sockets (meaning the plan). If you are connecting via distribution boxes, then all cables must first go to them, and then to the electrical panel.

cables must run strictly horizontally or vertically;
It is better to avoid crossing wires;
the cable must be installed at a distance of 0.15 meters from the ceiling and 0.1 meters from doors and windows;
the cable to the switch is fed from above, the cable to the socket from below.

The last step will be to calculate the cable footage and the total number of machines. When calculating cable footage, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the rooms, and when calculating the number of machines, one must proceed from the number of groups. You should also remember that all machines are ultimately connected to one, which is designed for high power.

If you already use or are planning to purchase an electric stove, then you need an automatic machine that is designed for at least 63 A.

Basic types of wiring

If you decide that correct wiring electricians in the apartment are up to you, then first you need to choose a suitable method for this.

There are three types of wiring:

using distribution boxes;
star;
plume.

"Through junction boxes."
This is the most common type of wiring. The electrical panel is located on staircase, and not in a residential area. The power cable comes from it, and the panel itself contains a meter and several switches (most often 1-3). In each individual room, power supply is provided through a distribution box located at the entrance.

"Star".
Each lighting point or socket is located on a separate cable line, entering the electrical panel, and often have their own circuit breaker.

This wiring makes it possible to exercise full control over each element of the power supply chain. Among the disadvantages for the owner is a significant increase in the amount of necessary wiring and labor costs, the high cost of a fairly large panel, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the project.

Wiring "Star"

"Plume".
The principle is similar to the “star” one, but differs in that not one element, but several are placed on one cable. The project will cost less than the previous one.

It is rare to find one of the options in its “pure form”. In each specific case, they are mixed to achieve the most effective result.

Combined wiring method

Nuances in a one-room apartment

kitchen and bathroom, where a large number of electrical appliances are concentrated;
living room.

This is done in order to obtain a power reserve by distributing the total load over two circuits, and also so that in the event of a short circuit or break in the circuit, one line, if possible, remains in working condition.

Electrical wiring diagram in an apartment (examples)

The given diagram of the apartment wiring of a standard two-room apartment with the location of the electrical panel near the entrance to the apartment is made in a somewhat simplified form. Only the main sources of lighting are presented here, that is, chandeliers, simple single-key switches, hidden sockets with a protective contact for grounding.

So, as you can see for yourself, electrical diagram you can compose it yourself. A specialist will do this job much better, but every apartment owner should be able to correctly determine the location of the wires in order to avoid accidental damage to them by an unsuccessfully driven nail or drill bit.

Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment, step by step, is a matter that requires increased attention to the work being performed, strict adherence to safety standards and installation rules.

The slightest mistakes can cause a short circuit. There are a number certain rules, following which you can make high-quality electrical wiring.

Carrying out electrical work is not particularly difficult for those who know how to handle the tool.

Installation can be done in either of two ways. Hidden installation methods include embedding wiring into walls, ceilings and voids, under the flooring, behind plasterboard sheets.

The open installation method includes laying cables in special boxes, cable ducts, using staples and clips. Both of these methods have their advantages. To perform installation, first of all, it is necessary to move all furniture and household appliances away from the walls and, if a major renovation is being carried out, remove all construction debris.

Let's look briefly at each of these stages.

Methods for laying electrical wires and cables

open;
hidden.

ceiling gasket;
laying on walls;
and flooring.

Hidden way

This technology is the most dusty and dirty, since you will have to trench the walls and ceiling or tear off the floor covering. Therefore, it is best to perform it during a major overhaul.

If the electrical supply project plans for wiring along the walls, then we mark them with places for wiring, pick up a hammer drill or grinder and cut out grooves of a certain width and depth. We select the depth on the basis that after laying the wiring or cable, the layer of plaster will be no more than 10 mm, the width is unlimited.

We cut out places for sockets and distribution boxes using a special crown. We remember about load-bearing walls and make grooves in them that are not too deep. In apartments of panel houses, the interfloor ceilings have internal voids in which wiring can be laid.

Today, monolithic structures with brick interior floors are more popular; in such apartments, grooves are made in all walls, the main thing is not to catch the load-bearing monolithic beams.

Most economical option hidden installation is installation under the floor covering. The main thing is the presence of corrugations for each wire. This is done for convenience in case of repair or replacement of wires and for additional insulation.

After the grooves are equipped, they begin to install the lighting distribution panel and lay the cable. The shield itself can be mounted or embedded in the wall. In new houses there is a special niche for it, and in old houses it is fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws.

Inside the panel we install machines from which VVG-3*2.5 wires will go to the sockets and the main line. We lay VVG-3*1.5 from distribution boxes to lighting fixtures. For stationary high-power devices we make separate lines from VVG-3*2.5 cable. At the places where the connection points are installed, we make an outlet of 15-20 cm.

Now in distribution boxes into a single network. The highest quality connection will be the use of P&S. To avoid mixing up the wires during connection, you can hang tags with specific markings on them.

After that, using a tester, we check the entire network for damage and errors. If everything is fine, then we wall it up, put the switches and sockets in place.

Outdoor installation

For rooms where it is prohibited or impossible to lay wires hidden, open installation is used (external wiring in the apartment). For these purposes, boxes, cable channels or special clips are used. The installation is quite simple and is carried out only along the walls and ceiling.

The first thing we do is mark the laying location and drill holes for fastening in increments of 40-50 cm; if the space for the wire is less than 0.5 m, then we make increments of 15 cm for two fastening points.

After this, we attach boxes, cable ducts or clips to the wall or ceiling. We install external junction boxes at the wiring points, and carry out the wire connections, wiring and installation of connection points in the same way as in the hidden installation method.

The advantage of open mounting is easy access to all wiring, but the disadvantage is that it is not very aesthetically pleasing.

Typically, cables from the apartment electrical distribution board are laid along the ceiling (floor slab).

Holes are drilled in the ceiling, then when laying the cable, a cable fastener is inserted into this hole. I will dwell on this in detail, I will only say that there are many installation options (for example, a dowel-clamp, dowels with a tie).

Tools required for electrical installation

A wall chaser (or, in extreme cases, a grinder) for cutting furrows, a hammer drill.
Screwdriver Set.
Pliers, wire cutters.
Building level.
Phase indicator.
Drills, a crown for a hammer drill for drilling out sockets for socket boxes.
Knife and hacksaw.

With absence professional tool you can always rent one.

Which wire to use for wiring in an apartment

Currently, there is no question about what kind of wire is needed for wiring in the apartment. For the installation of home electrical wiring, wires and cables are used exclusively with copper conductors. Wires and cables with aluminum conductors cannot be used for internal electrical wiring.

copper wires

increased ductility (less likely to break during installation);
corrosion resistance (oxidizes more slowly);
long service life relative to aluminum;
can withstand greater loads with a smaller cross-section.

Wires and cables can be single-core or multi-core. Multicore wires and cables have two or more cores reliably insulated from each other in a common sheath.

An example of a stranded wire is a wire of the PRTO brand (a wire with a copper core with rubber insulation in a braid of cotton yarn impregnated with an anti-rot composition). Single-core and stranded wires and cables can be made single-wire and multi-wire.

Cables and wires differ from each other in the type of sheath and names. The sheath of wires and cables serves to protect the insulation of the cores from exposure to light, moisture, various chemicals and prevent them from mechanical damage. The cable may include armor, and the sheath allows it to be installed in more adverse environmental conditions.

Wires can only be laid in a hidden way, with open installation - only in pipes and boxes. Cables can be laid openly.

The most popular cable for use in home electrical wiring is VVGng; NYM cable and PUNP wire are less commonly used.

To connect to the floor panel, it is best to use an NYM cable. The same cable is used to connect floor panel with apartment or room shields (provided that such are available). Usually such shields are organized in private cottages.

It can also be used for individual connection of powerful consumers. This cable can be used to do all the power wiring in an apartment or house, but since it costs more expensive than cable VVGng and PUNP wires, then it is used less often for these purposes.

VVG is an unarmored protected cable with copper conductors, polyvinyl chloride insulation, in a polyvinyl chloride sheath. The cable can be used in dry and damp areas.

The VVG cable is not designed for stretching. The insulated conductors of the VVG cable are twisted and have a distinctive color. The inner shell does not contain filling in the intervein space.

Cable VVGng

The designation “ng” in the name of the cable (VVGng) means that it does not propagate combustion when laid in bundles (a composition based on fire-resistant plastic is used). If VVG cable is used instead of VVGng cable, then if one of the cables catches fire, the flame will spread to other cables instead of localizing the fire.

The VVGng cable has a wide variety of shapes. It is most convenient to use a VVGng flat cable. In addition, it can also be round, square, sector, and even triangular.

NUM cable (NYM) – produced according to the German standard DIN 57250. The cable can be used indoors for hidden and open installation. NYM cable can be used outdoors, only out of direct sunlight. NYM cable has reduced flammability and gas and smoke emission, which is especially important for residential premises.

NYM cable

The NYM cable consists of copper cores, an intermediate sheath of chalk-filled rubber and a sheath of flame retardant polyvinyl chloride insulation. The use of an intermediate sheath in the cable design makes it easy and convenient to cut the cable during installation, increases its fire hazard and increases flexibility.

PUNP – installation flat wire. This is the cheapest wire of all cable and wire products used for installing electrical wiring in the home. PUNP wire is produced with two or three single-wire copper cores and polyvinyl chloride insulation in a PVC sheath. The veins can be painted in different colors.

Wire PUNP

PUNP wire is only available flat. These cable and wire products are used for both power and lighting networks. In the second case, wires of smaller cross-sections are used.

Much less often, when wiring home electrical systems, rubber-insulated wires of the PRN, PRI, and PRTO brands are used. The PRTO wire is intended for laying in fireproof pipes, PRI - can be used for laying in dry and damp rooms, PRN (protected wire) - in outdoors, PRD, PRVD (two-core twisted wire) - only in lighting networks of dry rooms.

For open wiring, it is convenient to use a flat wire with copper conductors and polyvinyl chloride insulation with a dividing base of the PPV brand, as well as a wire with polyethylene insulation PPP. There is a flat wire without a dividing base - PPVS, but it is not very convenient to use.

Previously used wires with aluminum conductors (APR, APV, APRTO, APPV) are now not used in the construction and modernization of home electrical wiring.

Wire with copper core and polyvinyl chloride insulation PV. PV wires can be single-wire or multi-wire. Wires are available with different insulation colors. In household electrical wiring, single-core wire PV1 in yellow-green coloring is used for the potential equalization system (PSUP).

Wire PV1

When choosing wires and cables, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of the PUE for insulation painting.

The insulation of the neutral working conductor must be blue color, zero protective – yellow-green. The color of the insulation of phase conductors must be different from the color of neutral conductors. There are many options here - brown, red, grey, white, black, etc.

It is also very convenient to use a different color of phase conductors for each section of electrical wiring, as well as different colors of core insulation for power and lighting wiring.

If you choose and then install electrical wiring with a wire or cable without complying with the requirements for the color of the cores, then in the future this will lead to significant difficulties in servicing and repairing electrical equipment in the apartment. In addition, the installation process itself can be very complicated, especially when using a large number of switches and sockets.

For different groups of household electrical appliances, wires with different cross-sections should be used.

Lighting - wire cross-section from 1.5 mm (automatic - 16 A).
Sockets - cross-section must be at least 2.5 mm (circuit breaker - 20 A).
Powerful electrical appliances, such as electric stoves and hobs - at least 4 mm (25 A).

Installation of residential electrical panel

Before laying cables, it is advisable to mount the electrical panel into the wall. The size of the switchboard is selected according to the number of circuit breakers, RCDs, and differential circuit breakers that will be installed in it.

The boards are produced in the following main sizes: 4, 8, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 60, 72 modules (1 module = 1 single-pole circuit breaker). In an apartment, panels of 12, 24, or 36 modules are usually used.

In my practice of electrical installation of apartments, in most cases I use electrical panels with 24 or 36 modules (24 modules for a 1-room apartment, 36 modules for a 2 or 3 room apartment).

One shield may not be enough if you plan to use equipment for telecommunication networks (router, media converter). In this case, it is rational to place these components in an additional electrical panel, which is installed next to the main (power) panel.

Modern electrical panels are hidden in the wall and do not take up much space.

The advantages of installing an additional electrical panel are that it accommodates the network equipment that is necessary for the functioning of television and the Internet. Thus, a router hung in the hallway on a nail is a thing of the past. In return come functional and ergonomic solutions.

Installation of socket boxes and distribution boxes

After marking, the locations of future sockets and switches became visible. In most cases, nowadays, sockets are installed closer to the floor at a height of about 20-40 cm from the floor, switches - at a height of 70-90 cm from the floor.

This rule is not strictly mandatory; changes are possible upon request. For example, it is more convenient for tall people to use switches located higher; for short people, on the contrary, it is better if the switch is placed lower.

Sockets and switches can be assembled into blocks of up to 5 pieces, and sometimes up to 6 in one line. Moreover, both vertical and horizontal installation. All these points should already be taken into account when marking.

Now all that remains is to drill holes in the wall for the socket boxes. The standard European socket box has a diameter of 68 mm. When folding several socket boxes in a row, the distance between their centers should be exactly 71 mm. The depth of the socket boxes is 45 mm or 60 mm.

Deeper ones are used, for example, for installing a temperature controller for a heated floor or for switching electrical wires if necessary.

After this, holes are drilled for the junction boxes. Typically, distribution boxes (they are also called doses) are mounted under the ceiling at a distance of approximately 15-30 cm from the ceiling. The following rule must be observed: doses must be on the same vertical axis with sockets and/or switches located below.

Not everyone likes having distribution boxes visible on the wall. Installation of distribution boxes under the ceiling is allowed, provided the wires are connected by welding or crimping.

Wall chipping

Grooving is the process of cutting a groove (deepening, furrow) in concrete, brick or plaster layer for the subsequent installation of communications into it (in electrical engineering, communications are electrical cables and wires, in plumbing - pipes).

Before cutting, it is necessary to indicate the width and depth of the groove.

number of cables laid together;
cable sections;
the location of the cables in the groove relative to each other.

Regarding the last point, it is worth clarifying: cables in a groove can be laid either flat or deep into the groove. In one case the groove is made deeper, in the other - wider. Here each electrician decides for himself.

You should not make the groove too wide (with a margin) - during installation the wire will constantly fall out and will have to be secured in the groove with special clips or “grabbed” with plaster. It is ideal to make a groove 4 mm wide for a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm - the cable fits in there with a little tension and holds without problems.

I strongly recommend making grooves using a wall chaser with a connected industrial vacuum cleaner, and not using an angle grinder for this. Since fine dust after such gating will settle for quite a long time, which can stall all the work.

Professional electricians usually have all these tools (wall chaser and industrial vacuum cleaner) in stock. At self-installation they can be rented.

Wiring

along the ceiling;
by gender;
along the walls.

there is no risk of breaking the wire during repairs;
There is always a way to get to the wiring.

If necessary, you can always remove the suspended ceiling, make changes to the electrical wiring, and then install the ceiling in place. When laying on the floor, you will have to chisel the screed, which is fraught with high costs.

Connecting wires in a junction box

twist;
soldering;
welding;
crimping;
PPE caps;

Please note that only connections made by welding and crimping (as the most reliable) can be bricked up according to the PUE.

Cost of electrical installation work in an apartment

Price list for electrician services:

average cost turnkey electrical installation work

There is another approach when calculating the cost of electrical installation work. The turnkey price is determined depending on the number of installation points.

socket;
switch;
lamp;
chandelier, etc.

Prices for electrical installation of one point range from 700 to 1500 rubles. (of course, excluding the cost of materials).

Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment from the panel

The electrical supply diagram of a private home is a lot of organized cables, wires, and protective devices. The correct selection of parameters and characteristics of the circuit elements guarantees the safety and comfort of property owners.

If the diagram is drawn up correctly, taking into account the requirements of the PUE and other regulatory documents, there is nothing to fear - the rooms will always be light, warm, and electrical devices will not break due to power surges or short circuits in the network. Therefore, special attention should be paid to electrical design.

We suggest you understand all the intricacies of this process. The article outlines the general requirements for designing an electrical network and provides practical advice on the choice of wires, and also discussed in detail standard schemes electrical wiring.

In addition, we have prepared a review common mistakes, taking into account which will help to avoid shortcomings in the development and installation of power supply networks.

When there were few electrical appliances, and several 40-60 W light bulbs were enough for lighting, a primitive circuit was drawn up to set up the power supply system, including several switches and sockets.

Now, with the advent large quantity volatile household appliances, the circuit is necessarily differentiated into group lines protected by circuit breakers and other devices.

In just one kitchen, up to a dozen devices can be connected, 2-3 of which are powerful units that require dedicated power lines with a larger cross-section cable and separate sockets

If you think through all the nuances of the location of electrical wiring in a private house, taking into account the use copper wire, it will last at least 20 years. Typically, a diagram is drawn up along with the design of a new house or before a major renovation.

You should start by indicating the installation locations of such elements as:

sockets;
switches;
distribution boxes;
lighting devices;
powerful household appliances;
electrical panel

At the same stage, you should decide on the method of laying the cables - open or closed. In houses with plastered walls, a closed method is usually used; in houses with wooden walls, an open method is used.

Whatever scheme you use, there are a number of rules that you cannot deviate from. They are prescribed in regulatory documentation, and their effectiveness has been proven for decades.

Here are a few important axioms of electrical installation that will be required to draw up a diagram:

Image gallery

To save energy, LED lights with motion sensors are installed on the stairs leading to the second floor or attic, which turn on only in the presence of a person.

Be sure to ground all metal outlets and objects connected to power lines. For grounding in electrical installations, the third core of the cable is used - a wire in yellow-green insulation.

In houses made of brick, aerated concrete blocks, cinder blocks, it is necessary interior decoration walls, which means they use a hidden method for laying wires.

To provide additional protection, and in case of repair to quickly replace the cable, it is placed in a non-flammable polymer.