Aquarium filters and filtration methods. How to install and use aquarium filters How to properly install a filter in an aquarium
One of the important questions that worries novice aquarists is how to install a filter in an aquarium? This small but important device will make the life of your pets much more comfortable, so you can’t do without it.
Types of filters
Before installing a filter in an aquarium, you need to decide which type of filter you need. They differ mainly in the way the filter is installed in the aquarium - to the outside or interior wall(under the water). Most often used at home compact devices that are mounted inside containers with water. Their power varies depending on the volume of the aquarium. Other types, external or bottom, are used much less frequently, usually with large volumes of water.
The principle of operation is the same for everyone - Pressurized water is forced through the filter material, in which all the dregs are retained. Over time, beneficial bacteria multiply inside and help keep the aquarium clean. In addition, in some filters special impregnation improves chemical composition water. Another one important detail: By constantly stirring the water in the aquarium there will always be enough oxygen, and the fish will not constantly stay near the surface.
So, most likely you will be dealing with an internal filter. They are more compact, cheaper and easier to care for. Bottom ones can now be found extremely rarely, and external ones are usually used by professionals.
Filter installation
The aquarium must be pre-filled with water. Filter needed first assemble completely, then immerse in water(not plugged into the network) and attach to the inner wall at a distance of about three centimeters from the surface (as a rule, suction cups are provided in the design). If the depth does not allow this, simply leave as much space at the top as possible. From below the device should not rest on the bottom. Water constantly evaporates, so the distance must be checked regularly.
The end of the transparent tube that takes air from the room must be brought outside. It’s convenient when it has a special mount that helps hold the tube on the glass. If you already have an aeration system installed, then this part may not be used. Only after you have installed the aquarium filter, plug it into a power outlet. The appearance of a flow indicates that you did everything right. The wire should hang freely, going down from the outlet.
At the hole from which purified water flows, there is usually a damper that allows you to regulate the strength and direction of the flow. Observe how the water moves, and if you want to correct something, first disconnect the device from the power supply.
Terms of use
First of all, you need to remember that you can turn off the filter only to clean it of accumulated dirt. Do not leave the device turned off in water, and even more so, you should not turn on the filter after it has been turned off for some time (half a day or longer), because this way you risk poisoning your fish. Before installing such a filter in an aquarium, it must be thoroughly washed, or better yet, the filter material must be replaced.
Before immersing your hands in water, unplug the filter from the outlet. After manipulations (cleaning the aquarium, catching fish, etc.) be sure to turn the filter back on.
The filter can only be connected to the network if it is completely submerged in water. It will quickly break if exposed to air.
To clean the filter, unplug it, turn off any other electrical appliances present, and then remove the appliance from the water.
An aquarium filter is the life support system of any aquarium. Fish produce various wastes and if not removed, pollution can lead to the death of the fish as they cannot survive in their own waste.
In nature, toxic waste products from fish, such as ammonia, dissolve in large volume water or is carried away by the current. The water in the aquarium has limited volumes and we cannot change the water constantly, so we use technical developments and a little help from Mother Nature to ensure effective filtration.
Mechanical filters
Traps debris and solids in water. When they are clogged, filtration is ineffective and the operation of the pump/pump may decrease or stop, so they must be cleaned regularly or filter materials replaced. General forms mechanical filler: sponge or filter fibers.
Biological filtration
This is the processing of fish feces and other organic particles into less harmful forms, perhaps the most important in an aquarium, since without it, fish can die from ammonia poisoning. For biological filtration, we use a porous media with a large surface area, but it is not the media that performs the biofiltration - it is what lives on it, which is very important.
The biological filler serves as a home for. The greater its quantity/volume, the greater the usable surface area and the more bacteria can live there. These microorganisms consume a lot of oxygen supplied to them from the pumped water, so long-term shutdown of the filter leads to their death due to lack of oxygen. Dead bacteria release substances that are dangerous to fish, so when you turn off the filter for more than one hour, you must thoroughly rinse the filter sponge to avoid poisons getting into the aquarium water.
Biological filter/material should not be washed under the tap as chlorine and chloramine will kill bacteria. It should be washed with water taken from the aquarium; under no circumstances should this water be poured back. Examples of biological filter materials are ceramic rings or plastic beads. The sponge will also work as a biological filter.
It takes time for new ones to form, so the filter should be running all the time and switched off for a maximum of one hour.
Chemical filtration
often used to fine-tune aquarium water. Most well known, it absorbs any impurities from water and makes it crystal clear and odorless. The good thing about carbon filler is that it is more porous and has large area absorbing surface. Resins are also used as chemical filter media and can be used to remove , and other organic contaminants. They can be used along with other filter media to control algae growth in your aquarium.
Filter types
Filters can be divided into internal and external, electric pump filters and air filters. Internal filters are located inside the aquarium, while external filters are located under the aquarium in a cabinet/stand, mounted on the back of the aquarium or can be built into its lid, above the water level.Modern filters can be equipped with additional options:
1. Aeration device.
2. The movable outlet tube changes the direction of water flow.
3. The power regulator makes it possible to reduce or increase the water flow.
4. Built-in heater.
5. Built-in UV sterilizer.
6. Power indicator helps determine the strength of the water jet and pump performance.
7. Electronic module with software.
Internal Filters
This is by far the most popular and most suitable filter for small aquariums and beginner aquarists. Essentially, the design of all internal filters is the same: aquarium water is passed through a filter material. The filter materials are located in a plastic container, in the walls of which there are holes for the passage of water. Water is forced through the filter using an electric pump located in the upper section of the filter. The lower part of the filter is removable and resembles a hollow glass in which the filter materials are placed.
Design and principle of operation of internal filters.
Some indoor pump filters come with a water flow regulator and an aeration device that introduces air into the water. While mechanical and biological filters are traditionally available, modern internal filters come with other additional options.
General instructions:
1. Find appropriate place in an aquarium for an internal filter. Installing a filter in far corner makes it easy to hide tubes and equipment behind plants and other decorations.
2. Insert new replacement filter material. Place the filter in the aquarium and press the suction cups onto the glass. Make sure the filter is securely attached.
3. Double check that the filter is immersed in water, then connect the power cord to electrical outlet or surge protector. You will see bubbles coming out of the filter as soon as it begins to pass water through the cartridge.
Options for placing the internal filter.
Internal pump filters are the most widely used type of aquarium filter. This is especially true for small and medium-sized aquariums; in large aquariums, it is usually better to install it in conjunction with an external canister filter.
External Filters
A traditional external filter consists of a sealed canister connected to the aquarium with a hose at the inlet and outlet. External filters are larger and more powerful than most internal filters and can hold much more filter media, offering better cleaning and support for more fish. External filters are especially useful for large, densely packed aquariums with large fish.
Design and principle of operation of external filters.
External filters are designed for various types of filtration - mechanical, biological and chemical, so they are universal. Installed under the aquarium for easy access and maintenance. The best ones are those that come with an auto-start mechanism, meaning they are easy to fill and start on the spot.
Air Filters
Air filters are a thing of the past for the most part, but they are still used today. Airlift filters are perhaps the weakest, so they create a slower flow of water and are less likely to suck in small creatures. Because of this, pneumatic sponge filters are popular among fish farmers, and in separate use Suitable only for small nano-aquariums, while air pumps consume a small amount of electricity, offering low operating costs.
Methods of using air filters.
Bottom air filters were once very popular, but they can stunt plant growth. The bottom filter can be upgraded by installing a power head - a pump.
Which one is better for me?
1. The choice of filter may depend on your budget, experience and the species of fish you want to keep. The quality of filtration depends on the volume of filter material, so the more the better - this is in the order of things.
2. External filters are more expensive and a little more technical to set up, but they are the best filters for your fish.
3. For small aquariums, an internal pump filter will be sufficient.
May vary significantly in their filtration capacity, noise rating and durability. Well-established brands tend to be more expensive, but may be more profitable in the long run. Most people are satisfied with less expensive brands as they suit their needs and budget.
If everything is already clear, you should think about a water filter. For fish in an aquarium, clean water is very important, so it is necessary to regularly clean the water from dirt and food residues. Aquarium professionals can perfectly select the flora and fauna so that an aquarium filter is not needed. But this is rather an exception, and besides, fish also need special food.
So let's talk about special filters. My aquarium has a filter installed like in the picture. Simple and straightforward with two jaws. Bought on the market for 100 UAH with a question to the seller: “Give me a filter for a 100 liter aquarium.” If you cannot approach the seller with such a question, then read on the text 😉
You need to buy an aquarium filter for several functions:
- purification of water from various organic and inorganic particles;
- removal of soluble medications after treatment of fish and other substances;
- ensuring good water circulation;
- enrichment of water with oxygen.
Aquarium filters are divided into two categories: external and internal. As is logically clear from the names, the internal one is when the filter element is located in the aquarium, and the external one is located outside it. There are no particular advantages or disadvantages from choosing one type of cleaning or another - it’s only about the comfort of caring for the device. Remember that periodic cleaning of the filter is the key to ensuring that it does not become a source of harm to fish.
Aquarium filters come in several types:
- bottom, which is placed under pebbles. During operation, it creates soil movement, which only benefits the microflora of the water;
- boxes through which water passes. They are internal and external, and work using electricity or air;
- aerators. The principle of operation is that water is directed by a stream of air and passes through a layer of sponge. It is attached to the wall of the aquarium, and to clean the filter you just need to wash the sponge;
- "gas mask" type. Water is passed through a container containing one or more filtration media.
The location of the filter in the aquarium: it can be external or internal, and the power comes from the mains.
The aquarium filter may have different kinds cleaning:
- Can you buy an aquarium filter? mechanical type. The main function is to remove various debris from the water. But there are devices that enrich water with oxygen and circulate it. Foam, crumbs, sponge can be used as a cleaning agent;
- chemical type of filtration using activated carbon, zeolite or other substances. Used to rid water of ammonia and other toxic substances;
- biofiltration. Used in aquariums with a large number of fish, which heavily pollute the water. After passing mechanical cleaning and oxygen enrichment, the water enters the biofilter. Removal of soluble waste occurs with the help of bacteria.
When choosing an aquarium filter, it is worth considering its operating speed. Recommendations vary widely, but the best option there will be a cleaning speed of one volume per hour. It is important that the water remains clear.
A good video review of a typical aquarium filter:
How to install an internal filter in an aquarium?
How to properly install an internal filter in an aquarium? This question often confuses novice aquarists. Everything seems clear in appearance, but how to do it correctly so that God forbid something happens is not clear. Should the filter itself be completely submerged in water or not? And why, I wonder, such a transparent tube? The instructions for filters are not always detailed and understandable, and even in the photo on the box it is not clear whether the filter is immersed in water or not. The internal filter is called so because it is located inside the aquarium. An external filter is more bulky and is designed in such a way that it is placed outside the aquarium. The internal filter is completely immersed under water so that 2-4 cm of water remains above it. It is attached to the wall of the aquarium using suction cups included with the filter. Small flexible hose, included with the kit, is needed to supply air, so one end of it is attached to the corresponding hole on the filter spout, and the other is brought out; you can attach it to the upper edge of the aquarium wall (often there is a mount for this). In any case, the air intake should be above the water level in the aquarium. Most often, there is an air supply regulator on the spout of the internal filter (some at the end of the air hose), which can first be set to the middle position. In the future, you can adjust it as you need. Some aquarium fish they love the strong current created by the filter, and some cannot stand it at all. Only after installing the filter and connecting all its parts can you turn it on to the network. In the future, all manipulations in aquarium water must be carried out with the filter turned off, since no device is immune from malfunctions, and they, in turn, can lead to damage electric shock. Sometimes beginners ask: - Why are there no bubbles from the filter? - In principle, when set to a low flow of water, there may not be any bubbles. If you see a wavy surface of the water in the aquarium, then the filter is working properly and this is quite enough. The water is saturated with oxygen from the surface due to waves, as in nature, because there are no devices there.
Aquatek.com.ua has a very good description of the problems with an external filter and its advantages over an internal filter for an aquarium.
| Old-school aquarists a long time ago came up with a clever device called an external aquarium filter. They were made from anything and filled with anything, as long as it was the most porous substrate possible. Most likely, looking at all their efforts, foreign specialists and their technologies went ahead and released the most popular canister-type aquarium filter today, which is installed outside the aquarium. Such a filter was called biological. This means that beneficial bacteria, having settled on the porous surfaces of the substrate, will happily catch organic matter dissolved in the water and convert it into substances that are safer for fish. Today, the very concept of an external filter is associated as a filter for the lazy. I would not like to call all aquarists lazy, because there is such a thing as being busy or lack of opportunity for maintenance. I consider myself to be terribly lazy. |
| From here we can draw one relevant conclusion - an external filter is convenient for any aquarium. Primarily due to the large time intervals between its maintenance (or in other words, cleaning and rinsing). Another big advantage of an external filter is that the filter materials can be different, separated from each other using special containers for these fillers (or, as they say, baskets). As an example, one of these containers can hold quite large porous material, for example, a large-pored sponge or ceramic rings, which will serve to retain large suspensions from flowing water and to distribute water flows in the filter itself. It is worth mentioning here the following: the slower the water flows through the filter material, the more effective the filtration occurs. When using an external filter, due to the large area of filter materials and the uniform distribution of water throughout the filter material, filtration in the aquarium is much more effective than in any internal filter. And of course, the filtration efficiency increases exponentially due to the amount of filter materials. Next, as an example, we can give activated carbon, which can also be placed in one of the containers of the external filter in a sufficiently large quantity, which is almost impossible to do when using a system in which there is an internal filter. The benefit of activated carbon is that, due to its properties, it makes water completely colorless. This is true, for example, after applying medicines, many of which very strongly color the water or with the active use of dry food containing various dyes that change the color of the water. That is, the use of carbon in a canister filter is very effective. Again by using a slow flow of water. |
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| The next rather weighty argument encouraging the use of an external filter, in addition to rare maintenance, is that it does not spoil general form aquarium as an internal filter, which occupies a certain space in the aquarium and is clearly visible, no matter how hard they try to hide it. To maintain it, there is absolutely no need to even lift the lid of the aquarium, not to mention disturbing the peace of the inhabitants of the aquarium. Each external aquarium filter has valves in its connection system to the aquarium that shut off the water supply to and from the filter. To service the canister filter, just turn off the taps and disconnect the filter from the hoses. |
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View of an aquarium with an internal filter |
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View of an aquarium with an external filter |
Installing an external filter for an aquarium:
External filter. Common problems and their solutions
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So you have already bought or just decided to buy an external filter. However, this device is unfamiliar to you, and this scares you to some extent. You ask yourself the question - what will happen if I have difficulties with it and how to deal with it? In this article I will try to help those who have problems with this. problematic situations with an external filter, or who are afraid of them, hesitating before buying an external filter or better opt for other filtration devices. In reality, there are no unsolvable problems. This is the first. The second thing is that the circle possible problems with an external filter is quite limited, and for all of them there is a real and practical solution. In this article I will try to outline the range of problems that arise when working with an external filter and outline how to avoid special effort they can be solved. |
| Let's start with the simplest. At first sight. But, strange as it may seem, this is a frequently occurring case. Having purchased an external filter, you opened it, removed the process lubricant (in those models where this must be done), pulled out the filter materials from plastic bags (in those models where the filter materials are packaged in plastic bags) or just wondered what was inside. But it’s impossible to put it back together. The filter head does not fit into place properly. I note that the head should fit clearly onto the filter body and be closed with latches without any additional effort. If this does not happen, then this is precisely the problem that is being discussed now. |
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| Loss of seal between the head and the external filter housing. In other words, the filter is leaking. This is the most painful problem that often comes up in various specialized forums. And this is not without reason - after all, if it occurs, there is a threat of flooding of the room in which the aquarium is located, and if it is an apartment in multi-storey building, then the apartments are on the floor below. These concerns, according to our observations, are the main reason pushing the aquarist to still choose an internal filter, if such a choice is worth it. Is this problem so terrible, and what is behind it? So, possible reasons occurrence of a problem. The first reason is that the clamps that secure the head to the filter body are not closed tightly or not closed at all, in other words - ordinary ..... negligence (carelessness and haste). This happens rarely, but it does happen. Elimination– carefully close all fastening clips. As mentioned above, the clamps should close without additional effort. Next reason– contamination of the profile seal (or gasket) between the head and the filter housing. Often between the filter head and the housing, in the place where the gasket is located behind long time dirt deposits accumulate, which in their density do not correspond to the sealed gasket, and as a result, the water, which is under pressure in the filter, can find weakness and will come out of the filter. Elimination– clean the profile seal (gasket), the surfaces of the head and body that are in contact with it, lubricate with special lubricant or Vaseline. |
The profile seal or gasket in the external filter is an object of close attention |
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| The third and most common reason– the profile seal (gasket) is inserted incorrectly, displaced, damaged or missing. Some models of external filters are designed in such a way that the gasket can be easily removed or moved. In such filters, there is a high probability that when installing the head on the body, the gasket may move a little to the side in some place, which will lead to uneven tightness of the connection, and therefore leakage (this is especially true when the gasket has already been worn out by repeated assembly and disassembly of the filter) . The solution in this case is to be careful in the process of assembling the filter, as well as to use only branded seals, preventing them from wearing out. In some models of canister filters, damage to the profile seal occurs due to several reasons. One of them is the sharp edges of the canister or filter head. This leads to the fact that every time the filter is assembled or disassembled, the sharp edges injure the rubber seal, as a result of which microcracks form on it. At some point, water under pressure will be able to seep out and the filter will leak. In order to avoid this problem, when choosing a filter, I recommend paying attention to the head and canister, avoiding models with sharp edges. When using such filters, each time you assemble the filter, lubricate the rubber gasket with special grease or petroleum jelly to soften the mechanical impact on the gasket. |
Sharp edge of the canister of one of the external filters |
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| I note that today there are already models of external filters on the market that have already gotten rid of the gasket disease. Their design eliminates the possibility of both the gasket shifting and its mechanical damage during the process of assembling and disassembling the filter. As a rule, in these filters the gasket is located inside a special groove on the filter head, which prevents any movement. Therefore, such a gasket is pressed evenly over its entire area. The edge of the canister in these filter models is also processed in such a way that it is rolled, eliminating the possibility of causing “injury” to the rubber filter seal. One of these filters is shown in the photo with an emphasis on the location of the rubber seal inside the groove on the filter head. To summarize the above, I will say that to avoid problems with leakage of the external filter from under the gasket, careful work with the filter, care for rubber seals, their mandatory timely replacement if microcracks are suspected, as well as choosing a filter with the least safe design installing a sealing gasket when purchasing it.. As you can see, if you handle the filter properly, it is quite possible to avoid such a widespread problem as leakage of the external filter. |
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| The filter does not work or does not pump water. We approach the aquarium, but the filter does not work. what happened? Possible reasons. As trivial as it may seem, the first reason is the lack of power supply to the filter. Check to see if anyone in the household has pulled the plug out of the socket. Sometimes this helps get the filter back to working. If this does not help, there is a possibility that the filter rotor is blocked by fragments of pebbles or a snail shell. In addition, mechanical damage or destruction of the rotor is possible. For solutions to this problem it is necessary to disconnect the filter from the network, remove the head from it and examine the rotor, and if necessary, replace it. If the filter does not work after washing it and then reassembling it, the reasons are as follows. There is nothing to download for the filter, because... there is no water in it. It should be remembered that before connecting the filter to the network, it must be filled with water. The filter itself does not fill with water, therefore, depending on the filter model, after connecting it to the hoses, you must either use the quick start pump, or fill the filter with water through a special filler hole, and only after it is filled with water, turn it on to the network. Another reason may be errors in installing the rotor after washing - the rotor and/or axle are inserted crookedly, or the rotor axle is broken, there are no axial rubber bearings (see photo), or the bayonet lock on the housing is installed incorrectly. To fix it, you need to remove the head and check the assembly of the rotor compartment, carefully installing the components in their places. If missing or damaged, replace it. |
Rubber axial rotor bearing |
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| The next problem that aquarists often encounter when working with an external filter is that the filter power has greatly decreased. There can be quite a few reasons for this. So, I’ll try to indicate them all along with solutions. Let's take a look at the filter taps or shut-off levers, depending on the model. Perhaps the taps are not fully open, or the shut-off levers are not set to the OPEN position. It is possible that the taps themselves or the tap connection block are very dirty. If this is the case, then you need to use a special brush to clean the taps or the tap connection block. In this case, the tap must be open, and in the tap connection block the levers are installed in the open position to avoid damage to the block device. The next step is to look at the hoses. Perhaps one or both are broken at the bends or twisted. It is also possible that the hoses become contaminated with mud deposits. In this case, it is necessary to clean the hoses with a long flexible brush. In addition, there are cases of contamination of the nozzle on the water intake pipe with dirt, snails or plant particles. Also common cause A decrease in filter power is due to severe contamination of the filter materials inside the filter. As a rule, this happens when the external filter is rarely maintained, when the aquarium is heavily loaded with fish, or when keeping those types of fish that place a significant load on the aquarium (large carnivorous fish, American cichlids, large goldfish, tri-hybrid parrots, etc.). In this case, it is necessary to reduce the time interval between washing the filter. It should also be remembered that some long-term filter materials are not recommended to be placed in bags, because... Dirt deposits accumulate on these bags much faster, as a result of which, in addition to a drop in the power of the external filter, the efficiency of these filter materials is minimized. Another reason for a drop in the power of the external filter may be contamination of the filter pump. In this case, it is necessary to clean the rotor chamber, the rotor itself and the cover from dirt deposits. Another common reason for the loss of power of a canister filter is the connection of additional devices on the hose system - e.g. ultraviolet sterilizer. It should be noted that these devices in some cases, as well as in incorrect installation can significantly reduce water flow. However, one should not assume that installing a sterilizer on an external filter hose is absolutely impossible. You just need to do it correctly, but more on that in another article. The last group of problems that I would like to talk about in this material is the presence of air in the filter. It is also a fairly common problem, which usually results in increased filter noise, and in the future can lead to damage to some components. The appearance of air in the filter may be caused by the fact that the connection point of the telescopic filter tube is above the water level. As a result, air is sucked through the joint. This problem often occurs during water changes when the aquarist does not monitor how much the water level has dropped. If for some reason it is necessary to significantly reduce the water level, to avoid this problem, simply disconnect the filter from the network. |
Connection blocks for taps of various filters |
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| A similar reason may be a leak in the connection between the hoses and the nozzles or faucets (faucet block), as well as damage to the hoses themselves, which also results in air being sucked in during operation of the external filter. In some cases, the appearance of excess air inside the filter may be caused by the fact that the external filter itself is installed too high in relation to the water level. Remember that the filter must be located significantly below the water level, but not less than 20 cm, taking the upper edge of the filter pump head as a level. The most common reason for air getting inside the external filter is the close location of the air nozzle to the water intake tube. The problem is solved by increasing the distance between the intake tube and the sprayer. I recommend that this distance be at least 10-15 cm. Another reason for the appearance of air in the filter may be high resistance to water flow due to heavy pollution filter materials inside the filter or excessively dense packing of individual baskets with large-porous or fine-porous aquarium padding polyester. The solution to the problem will be to clean the filter materials and fill the baskets less densely, if the reason was due to excessive density of the materials. It should be borne in mind that in any aquarium the water contains dissolved air, which over time can accumulate in small quantities in the filter head. This air can be removed by rocking the operating filter from side to side several times until air bubbles come out. The same procedure should sometimes be performed when restarting the filter or the first start of the filter, because residual air remains in the pores of the filter materials even after filling the filter and within several minutes, and sometimes an hour, it rises to the head of the filter, which can cause increased background noise his works |
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| To summarize all of the above, we can say the following. There are no serious problems when working with external filters. You should not be afraid of them or not trust the reliability of the filters themselves. As a rule, all problems that arise are a consequence of the actions or inactions of the aquarists themselves. Of course, technical defects occur due to the fault of manufacturers, but in this case, you always have the right to a warranty claim from the seller of this equipment. When writing this article, I deliberately avoided mentioning manufacturers of external filters, as well as their specific models to avoid advertising or anti-advertising of a particular device, so that this article is as informative as possible. |
So we've covered everything possible options filtering water in an aquarium. It is up to you to decide which filter is best and which filter to choose. I took a hinged internal one with aeration with two sponges. See you on our pages! Subscribe to the blog to receive interesting and useful information!
FAN series filters– ideal devices for beginner aquarists. They are easy to install and easy to maintain. All models in this series provide reliable filtration in freshwater aquariums from 3 to 250 liters.
The FAN series is represented by five models internal filters: FAN MICRO, FAN MINI, FAN 1, FAN 2 and FAN 3.
Maximum performance internal filter is achieved when it is installed in the aquarium 3-4 cm below the water level. In the same position, complete aeration is ensured. It should be remembered that as a result of water evaporation, its level in the aquarium gradually decreases. This should be taken into account when choosing the installation height filter.
The deeper you dive into the water filter, the less efficiently its aeration occurs.
To the wall of the aquarium internal filter attached with suction cups. For fastening, you can also use the L-shaped holder included in the kit; it can be used either together with suction cups or separately. 
The holder has a hole for attaching the aeration tube. It is important that its end is above the water level.
Some fish require current to create conditions close to natural in the aquarium.
The strength of the current can be smoothly adjusted with a special handle without putting your hands deep into the water. It must be remembered that by reducing the strength of the flow, we reduce aeration.
Together with filter There are various accessories. With their help you can change the design filter depending on your needs. 
For effective aeration of water, the tube is connected on one side to an aeration nozzle, and on the other to an aeration regulator. The amount of air taken in is regulated by turning or turning the aeration regulator. 
If a compressor is installed in the aquarium, the hose may not be used. In this case internal filter will work absolutely silently.
To attach the suction cups, simply insert them into the holder-platform and turn them.
Thanks to the clever design of the perforated rod, dirty water coming from the aquarium is evenly distributed along the entire length of the sponge, rather than concentrated in its upper part.
Particularly interesting internal filter FAN PLUS MIKRO, thanks to its design it can work even at a depth of 3 cm. This feature makes this filter practically indispensable in terrarium pools, aquaterrariums and palludariums, where it can effectively purify water in conditions where others filters will not work.
Under maintenance filter This means timely cleaning of the rotor, rotor chamber and sponge. Filter Regular maintenance allows you to achieve ideal water clarity in the aquarium.
To do this you need to follow simple rules.
No periodic maintenance filter becomes dirty, causing the flow of water through it to weaken, which reduces its performance.
Getting started cleaning filter First of all, you need to unplug the plug from the electrical outlet.
Then, with a slight movement, filter is removed from the holder with suction cups and removed from the aquarium.
Rinse the glass under running clean water.
Models FAN 2 and FAN 3 have a removable plastic pre-filter attached to the glass. It also needs to be washed to remove obvious contamination.
The sponge removed from the perforated rod is washed in water drained from the aquarium approximately once a week, the frequency depends on the population density of the aquarium.
The large-pored foam rubber from which the sponge is made effectively traps contaminants generated during the life of fish.
It is necessary to understand that this sponge functions not only as a mechanical, but also as a biological filter. On the surface of AQUAEL phenol-free sponges, ideal conditions for the life of beneficial nitrifying bacteria that oxidize ammonia and nitrites. Nitrifying bacteria are very sensitive to the presence of chemicals in water. That is why the sponge should be washed in water drained from the aquarium.
For normal life of bacteria it is required a large number of oxygen. Therefore, a break in the operation of the filter lasting more than 3-4 hours, as a rule, leads to its complete sterilization (death of beneficial bacteria), as a result of which it will have to be washed and “started” again.
It must be remembered that over time, sponges wear out without losing their appearance. Therefore, the filter material should be replaced with a new one at least once every six months.
Timely replacement of sponges has a positive effect on the efficiency of filtration and aeration in the aquarium.
The sponge should not be washed with tap water, as it is a habitat for nitrifying bacteria responsible for biological filtration. Tap water kills all beneficial bacteria.
Filters FAN plus series are powered by a sealed synchronous motor that does not require complex Maintenance. However, approximately twice a month it is necessary to remove the bowl and rotor chamber cover, remove the rotor and carefully clean it and clean the rotor chamber.
After this you should collect filter in reverse order.
After installing the rotor on the axis, it should rotate freely.
Filter maintenance schedule
Additional accessories
Sponges.
Thanks to their large-porous structure, AQUAEL sponges do not lose their shape over time and look almost like new even after several months of use.
Over time, the filtration efficiency of such sponges decreases. The manufacturer recommends changing the filter media twice a year and using only branded sponges.
Suckers.
For internal filters FAN2 and FAN3 are produced with special suction cups with a shock absorber that reduce filter vibration.
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To create a waterfall effect in the aquarium, with the murmur of water, you should use a special sprinkler nozzle (flute). Its use increases the efficiency of aeration and also promotes the uniform distribution of purified water in the aquarium. |
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Two flute models are produced: one for internal filters FAN micro, FAN mini, FAN1, FAN2, and the other for FAN3. |
The water flowing through the sterilizer is exposed to short-wave ultraviolet radiation (UV-C). Which kills pathogenic bacteria, tiny algae and other simple microorganisms living in aquarium water. It is recommended to turn on the sterilizer for prevention once a week for several hours, and also as needed (for example, in the event of mild turbidity caused by protozoa or fish diseases). 
The mini sterilizer is installed on the outlet nozzle filter.
There are four ultraviolet LEDs inside the sterilizer. Perfect option For filters FAN micro, FAN mini, FAN1. The sterilizer is easy to install and does not require additional maintenance. It has an autonomous power supply, allowing you to turn it on as needed.
For internal filters FAN 2 and FAN 3 are a universal Multi UV sterilizer.
This device is small in size and simple in design. A 3-watt light bulb is built into one of the modules (there are 4 of them in the set - for each type of compatible filter).
When used with filters FAN2 and FAN3 MULTI UV module is installed between the filter head and a glass with a sponge. The device does not require additional maintenance, and the lamp life is 5000 hours (after which it must be replaced).
Efficiency
Thousands of aquarium lovers have proven its effectiveness in practice. filters AQUAEL. Thanks to these filters always in aquariums clear water and excellent health of the fish.
Reliability
High-tech production guarantees the quality and long service life of the entire line filters.
Warranty period filters FAN series is 3 years.
Simplicity
Distinctive feature filters FAN is their ease of installation and maintenance.
Even a beginner will understand how to install filter into the aquarium and how to care for it in the future.
Safety
All filters FAN series have a degree of protection IP68 - this is the maximum level of protection against water penetration, which guarantees complete safety and uninterrupted operation during complete immersion filter in water.
Possible malfunctions and methods for eliminating them
| Types of faults | Possible reasons | Elimination methods |
| The filter does not work when plugged into the mains. | The electrical wire is damaged, the motor winding is burned out | Replace the filter |
| The filter does not work or works intermittently when plugged into the mains. | Contamination of the rotor chamber, rotor, rotor axis. Lime deposits on rotor chamber parts, rotor sticking | Open the cover of the rotor chamber, pull out the rotor, wash the rotor chamber, rotor axis, rotor. If there are lime deposits, remove them using a special tool. funds. Place the rotor in place, turn 2-3 turns (the rotor should rotate easily on the axis) |
| The filter works, but the water comes out in a weak stream | 1.water flow power is not adjusted 2.Filter parts are clogged |
1.Increase the flow power using the power regulator. 2. Disassemble the filter, wash or replace the sponge, remove and clean the rotor |
| The filter works, but there is little or no air aeration | 1.Water flow regulator is set to minimum 2.The air flow regulator is set to minimum 3. the aeration nozzle or hose is clogged 4. the filter is installed at a depth of more than 3cm from the water surface 5.filter sponge and filter parts are clogged |
1.adjust the strength of the water flow 2.Adjust the strength of the air flow. 3.clean the aeration nozzle (using a needle) or the air supply hose. 4.install the filter closer to the water surface (3cm) 5. wash or replace the filter sponge, wash the rotor and rotor chamber |
| When using the filter with the aeration nozzle, a squelching sound is heard | The plug on the air flow regulator is not installed. | Install the plug and adjust the air flow. |
When purchasing a home aquarium, you need to take care not only of selecting beautiful fish, but also of creating good conditions for their life. During the life of the fish, the water in the aquarium gradually becomes cloudy from the remains of food, medicines and vitamins. In addition, fish need oxygen in the water, otherwise they will swim on the surface all the time or even get sick.
Why install a cleaning system in your aquarium?
Aquarium filters easily cope with water purification due to the presence of special barriers that retain contaminants. According to the principle of purification, these devices are divided into three types:
with mechanical filtration (direct retention of small contaminants using a sponge or pressed crumbs);
with chemical filtration (water purification using activated carbon or other substances);
with biofiltration (water purification using bacteria).
Outside or inside?
According to the method of placement, aquarium filters are divided into two types - internal and external. As a rule, external ones are more powerful and are more often used for cleaning relatively large aquariums. But if desired, any type of filter can be used in both small and large aquariums.
In this case, the choice is determined rather by the personal preferences of the owners. Some people like it better appearance aquarium with one type of cleaning or another, some people find one type of fastening more convenient for themselves.
Objectively, we can highlight some main characteristics of different types:
the internal filter does not take up extra space while inside the aquarium;
the external one is more convenient to maintain, since to clean it you do not need to replant the fish and work in the water, pulling out and then installing the device again;
the external filter has a higher cleaning ability due to the fact that it has the ability to use several filter materials placed in different containers;
There is also an opinion that an external filter better enriches the water with oxygen, so it is preferable to choose it for those species of fish for which this point is especially important.
As a rule, installing an internal filter in a home aquarium is not difficult, thanks to the presence of a special suction cup mount. There are just a few points that should definitely be taken into account.
Firstly, the device itself needs immerse completely in water. There should be at least 1.5-2 cm of water above the top.
Secondly, the flexible hose connected to the filter part must be routed to the outer wall of the aquarium. It is through this that air is supplied to the water.
Otherwise, it's pretty easy to install. So, how to install a filter in an aquarium:
Let us add that it is better to first set the air speed regulator to the middle position, and then fine-tune the work based on the comfort of the fish. Some fish like to swim in strong currents, while some, on the contrary, feel uncomfortable in such conditions.
Never work in water with the device plugged in! First you need to make sure that it is turned off and only then adjust its operation. It is also impossible to leave the filter turned off for a long time, since its functions are very important for fish.
How to install an external filter
What is important here is first of all correctly assemble the structure itself. It consists of the filter itself and two hoses, one of which takes dirty water into the purification system, and the second one brings it out already purified.
According to the instructions in the box, carefully assemble the filter. It may consist of several containers that are filled special material. The system cover should snap tightly into place. (If this does not happen, check to see if the containers are overfilled).
Only after this, connect both hoses. The water outlet hose is shorter than the filler hose.
Then fill both hoses and the filter itself with water, and only then can you connect the device to the network.
To summarize, we can say that installing a cleaning system for an aquarium is not particularly difficult. You just need to choose suitable model, follow the instructions and comply basic safety rules:
Do not leave the device switched off in water for a long time. Moreover, do not turn it on after this without cleaning it. Otherwise, the fish may get poisoned.
Carry out all manipulations in water only after disconnecting the device from the network.
Never turn on the filter without immersing it in water, otherwise it may be damaged.
Remember to periodically clean the entire system.