Where to store water lily in winter. How to store nymphs in winter

With the arrival of autumn from pond owners in which water lilies grow very important questions arise: How will the water lily winter? How to properly store water lilies in winter? What care does a water lily need in winter? How prepare the water lily for winter? One of the most important factors To determine what to do with a water lily, use the depth of your pond. For the water lily root very important so that it does not fall into the freezing zone, otherwise the water lily will die. Usually For water lilies to overwinter in a pond, a depth of about one meter is sufficient.. Temperature at this depth approximately 3 - 4 degrees Celsius. For small ponds and ponds in which water will be drained on winter period water lilies must be taken to the basement, cellar and similar premises in which the temperature will be within 3 - 7 degrees Celsius.

Question: When should I take the water lily from the pond to the basement?

Answer:With the onset of cold autumn days,when the air and water temperature is around 8 - 10 degrees Celsius (usually the second half of October)you can take the water lily to the basement . At this temperature, the vegetative development of the water lily stops and it goes into hibernation.

Question: How to prepare a water lily for winter?

Answer:To prepare a water lily for wintering, you need to prepare a container in which the water lily will be located during the winter (for those cases if you will be taking the water lily from the pond to the cellar). Garden shears or pruning shears for cutting leaves.Using pruning shears, cut off all the old leaves at a distance of about 5 - 7 cm from the root. . We leave only young, unopened shoots that emerge from the center of the growth point.

Question: How to store water lily in the basement?

Answer:When storing water lilies in the basement/cellarit is very important to create the water lily root high humidity . You need to ensure that the soil in which the water lily is rooted is constantly moist. Perfect option Whenthe container with the water lily is located in a larger container with water . If this is not possible, you can place the container in plastic bag and periodically moisten the soil with water. At the same time, do not tighten the bag tightly so that the container with the water lily does not lock.

Question: When should I return the water lily to the pond?

Answer: In the spring, as soon as the main winter ice has melted (approximately this happens in March)water lily can be returned to the pond . Possible night frosts and a light crust of ice covering the surface of the water do not pose any danger to the water lily, since the water will no longer freeze too deeply and will not be able to damage the root of the water lily. But the early return of the water lily to the pond will have a more favorable effect on its awakening.

Question: At what water temperature does the vegetative development of a water lily begin?

Answer: Near 16 degrees water temperature and in the presence of natural light.

If In this article did not affect the ones you are interested in questions about storing and caring for water lilies in winter please send them to me at email [email protected] and I will definitely add them and the answers to them to this article. Good luck everyone!

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving High Quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

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There are no difficulties in organizing the proper wintering of nymphs

Nymphea- very beautiful perennial living in bodies of water. Its flowering is bright and long lasting. If on summer cottage There is a pond, it is impossible to resist not having such a beauty in it.

A natural question that gardeners have is what to do with it in winter? Will he be able to can a nymph survive the winter in conditions different from natural ones?

Safe wintering of nymphs depends on the conditions that are created for it in the reservoir at the dacha. In addition, many of its varieties tolerate the cold season well directly in water bodies.

Determine “by eye” whether it applies lily k frost-resistant varieties , you can even without resorting to special literature. Main sign frost-resistant variety - round-shaped leaf with a wax coating. Such sheets are not torn by winds, and the waxy surface prevents water from lingering on the surface of the sheet and freezing.

However, on its own frost resistance of nymphs does not guarantee a safe wintering of the plant. It is important that the reservoir meets two main criteria. Firstly, its depth must be more than 1 meter. In this case, the rhizomes of the water lily will not be afraid of any frost.

Secondly, the water must be clear and clean. Therefore, usually by the end of summer, reservoirs are cleaned and the water in them is renewed as much as possible.

If Nymphea varieties cannot be tolerated winter cold , it will have to be stored in the cellar. In this case, it is very important to strictly follow all the rules for preparing both the cellar and the plant itself, and the conditions for planting the water lily in a temporary place.

• Preparing the cellar. Firstly, the temperature in it must be constant, positive at high humidity– 85-90%. If the temperature is insufficient, it is maintained using heating devices. The required humidity is maintained by regular spraying of the rhizomes.
• Secondly, there should be no rodents or insects in the cellar. The complete absence of mold is also important. Therefore, before placing the nymph in the cellar, it is carefully treated with insecticides and antifungal drugs. An excellent solution would be to use special paint for finishing the walls and ceiling of the cellar.
• Preparing the plant. To transfer to the cellar, the plants are removed from the reservoir along with the rhizomes at the onset of frost. Here you need special attention Pay attention to the safety of the rhizome: in nymphs they are horizontal and vertical. Then the whole plant is washed well running water, removing any remaining soil from the roots. After this, the leaves and petioles are cut off, leaving only the rudimentary leaves.
• Containers for wintering water lilies. They must have holes for ventilation. Pieces of bog moss or wet sawdust are placed on the bottom. Then the plant is placed in a container and stored in the cellar.
• IN During the winter it is necessary to regularly check the health of plants. If the rhizomes are dry, they are sprayed with a spray bottle. If mold is detected, it is carefully removed and the rhizomes are sprayed with any low concentration fungicide.

If it is possible to remove the nymph from the reservoir along with the soil, the plant is dried for a day, then the leaves are cut off and placed in a container. With high humidity and constant temperature in the cellar, there will be no need for additional moistening of the earthen coma.

If there is no cellar or it does not meet the required conditions, the nymph can be preserved in another way, which is increasingly gaining popularity. This is transplanting a plant into a pot with soil. It is prepared in the same way as for storage in a cellar in the ground.

During storage, the growth point (the core of the plant) is covered with a piece of any bog moss. Then the pot is carefully wrapped in cling film so that a small dome is formed over the pot. The film is well secured and a hole is made in it to ensure ventilation. Store the pot in a cool place - basement, garage, attic, closed but unheated balcony or loggia. The main requirement for the selected room is its cleanliness and dry air.

Thus, there are no difficulties in organizing the proper wintering of nymphs, a task that even the most inexperienced water lily lovers can handle.

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Wintering nymphs! Preparing nymphs and water lilies for wintering, trimming leaves of nymphs before wintering. How to preserve nymphs in winter?

Autumn has arrived and night temperatures are approaching 0. It’s time to take care of your nymphs so that they overwinter well and delight you with their abundant flowering in the new season.

Many people ask when should nymphs be removed for the winter?

The answer is simple - the longer the nymphs stay in the pond while maintaining their leaf mass, the better! From my own experience, I will say that I begin to remove nymphs for wintering to the bottom of the pond when night temperatures become less than 0 degrees (about -1 -3 degrees), and daytime temperatures are still positive, every year this is a completely different time, but as a rule it is October month (my dime with nymphs are in the south of the Moscow region)!

1. For most nymphs, I trim off the leaves and buds, leaving only young leaves and small buds. This has to do with not littering your ponds. Since the entire leaf mass will die anyway and sink to the bottom of the reservoir, small leaves and the buds gradually grow during the wintering period (some of them, of course, will still rot). If the cleanliness of your pond is not important to you or you have a natural pond (not a film pond, a pond with a natural bottom), then you should not trim the nymphs (nature itself will control this process)!
2. I place nymphs on the bottom of the pond (the main condition for preserving nymphs in winter is that the growth point of the water lily is below the freezing depth), the depth of my ponds (where nymphs overwinter) is from 1 meter to 2.8 meters. For the south of the Moscow region, 1 meter is enough; for 10 years, the maximum ice thickness was 40 cm. For other regions, you need to check the freezing depth of the reservoir!
3. In early spring, as soon as the ice in your pond melts, the nymphs must be removed from the bottom and placed at a minimum depth. This is due to the fact that at a shallower depth the water warms up faster and the nymphs begin to grow faster. Then, as the leaf mass grows, they can be buried!

What should not be done before you remove nymphs for the winter!
1. Do not divide the nymphs, as they will not have time to grow stronger after being wounded (to grow new roots and prepare for a long winter). It is worth dividing nymphs until mid-August (this is a condition for the Moscow region)!
2. Do not feed the nymphs before wintering; this can also negatively affect the preservation of your nymphs during the winter. I stop fertilizing around the end of July (even if I have to replant nymphs in August, I plant them in plain soil without fertilizing, and I apply fertilizers at next year in early spring).
3. Also, you should not replant nymphs by transferring them into a large container; it is better to do this in the spring.
For those who store their nymphs at home in winter, the preparation process is approximately the same. Nympheas must be cleared of leaves, leaving only the smallest ones, place the pot with the nymphea in a container of water (so that the water completely covers the rhizome of the nymphea) and put it in the basement. Optimal temperature in the basement it should be about 3-6 degrees (this is close to the temperature of the water under the ice). It is also necessary to periodically check the water level in the container, as the water will evaporate!

I have not tried wintering nymphs without water (some people tightly wrap the container with the nymph in plastic bags and also put it in the basement), unfortunately, I cannot say anything about this method since I personally have not tried this method of wintering water lilies!

Nymphs also tolerate wintering well in winter gardens with natural light! Some of my nymphs also overwinter at home in pools, but it is very necessary strong lighting, otherwise the nymphs die!

If you have any questions about wintering nymphs, then write to us, and we will be happy to help you!!!

Having your own pond is not a problem now. Everything needed to create it is on sale: special films, plastic molds, water filters and plants in containers. A pond is not just a design element, but a living world that is constantly evolving and gives small discoveries. Water attracts many living creatures, and watching them is a great pleasure. And when water lilies bloom, it’s just a miracle!

And yet, few people decide to create their own reservoir. What's stopping? It is not clear how to prepare a pond for winter. In particular, how water lilies and other plants overwinter aquatic plants.

They're freezing

not scary!

You can make your task much easier if you plant only plants of local flora in the pond. In this case, there is practically no hassle with wintering. Plants that overwinter in the form of buds that sink to the bottom are completely unpretentious. These species include common waterweed, swamp duckweed and small duckweed (not to be confused with the aggressive humpback duckweed).

Some shallow-water plants are not afraid of freezing and successfully overwinter in a reservoir: these are arrowhead, manna, parasol, burr, cotton grass, water iris (Iris pseudacorus), different kinds sedge

The beautiful nymphs are a little less hardy. Our snow-white water lilies (Nymphaea candida) winter stably in a reservoir with a water level above them of at least 80 cm. There are also other species of nymphs on sale with Latin names on the labels. Of these, we can grow the following: N. alba, N. tetragona, N. odorata, N. mexicana and N. tuberose.

Based on these winter-hardy species, most varietal winter-hardy water lilies with different colors flower. Among them there is a surprising resistant plants, which in our conditions bloom until late autumn. Sometimes flowers even freeze into ice. As an example, it is worth mentioning the pale pink water lily "Marliacea Rosea" (N. "Marliacea Rosea"), pink "James Brydon" (N. "James Brydon") and yellow water lily"Xyeferi" (N. "Xyefeiri"). Without fear, they can be left in a reservoir when the water level above them is 80 cm.

If the pond is small

It is better to remove all plants from a small pond. Depending on winter hardiness and growing conditions, some of them are transferred to the cellar, others to the apartment, and others are dug into the ground for wintering.

When the depth of the reservoir is less than 80 cm, even winter-hardy nymphs are lowered into the cellar. All leaves are cut off. Most often it is recommended to store water lilies in a container of water (in a bucket or basin). Practice shows that the method of storage in the so-called wet chamber is more successful. Organizing it is not difficult at all. To do this, you also need to cut off all the leaves of the plant. Be sure to wash the root of the soil and then wrap it in damp sphagnum moss.

Place the prepared root on a piece of film in which holes have been made in advance. Lift the corners of the film up and tie them in the same way as a gift is usually wrapped in mica. This will create a kind of wet chamber. There is enough moisture and air inside for plants to live during the dormant period. In winter, they are periodically checked and, if necessary, moss is sprayed.

For winter apartments

In addition to winter-hardy species, stores offer heat-loving aquatic plants for decorating ponds. For the winter, they need to be moved to a frost-free room, but the conditions depend on the species.

All heat-loving aquatic plants are conventionally divided into two groups. The first includes species that have a pronounced dormant period in winter. These plants can overwinter in the cellar without light, at temperatures from 2 to 6C.

Another group consists of species that continue to grow in winter. Mainly tropical plants. They require keeping in a warm room with sufficient quantity Sveta.

It is better to send all plants that overwinter unstably in the pond for storage in the cellar. In the dark and cool like this " winter apartment» Subtropical species of nymphs, dwarf water lilies (Nymphea Pygmaea), small cattail (Typha minima), varietal rush grasses, variegated calamus, marsh whitewing, varietal marigolds, and hauttuynia will readily take a nap. A suitable storage method for them is in a humid chamber.

The yellow egg capsule (Nuphar luteum) can overwinter at a depth of 50-60 cm and even withstand temporary freezing, but it is also better to send it to the cellar than to leave it in a small pond. But it is recommended to keep pontederia either in a cellar or in a greenhouse.

Light and warmth

Definitely a warm and bright room in winter is required by tropical inhabitants of reservoirs, such as cyperus, callas, water hyacinth.

Cyperus and callas overwinter as houseplants. They are planted in the ground and placed on a tray with wet gravel. Water is poured into the pan so that the pot does not touch the water. A bright place is necessary, otherwise the plants will wither. In winter, make sure that there are no drafts in the windows, otherwise the roots may rot due to hypothermia.

Water hyacinth, or eichornia (Eichornia crassipes) is a floating plant. Can survive winter in a container with peat suspension composed of equal parts peat and water. A depth of 20-25 cm is sufficient, but the roots will have to be trimmed. Small specimens can be placed in the aquarium, but do not cover it with glass. In the autumn-winter period it is necessary to provide additional lighting.

Often water hyacinth dies during wintering. The reason may be that in the fall it was taken out of the water very late, and the plant could not withstand the stress of cold and sudden changes in temperature when moving into a room. The second reason: in the aquarium, the eichornia was too immersed in water, which is why its leaves rot. It's easy to rule this out. The plant is placed in a ring float so that the roots are immersed in water, and the leaves are located on the float and do not touch the water. With normal aquarium lighting and a temperature of +22..26C, water hyacinth successfully overwinters.

In winter - on land!

There is another way to winter - in the ground. Coastal and shallow-water plants live both on land and in areas with little flooding. If the reservoir is small and freezes quickly, then even some resistant species may suffer. In this case, it is better to plant coastal plants in a container. Then in the fall it is not difficult to remove them from the water.

Many species easily survive winter if they are dug into the ground along with the container. For these same plants, a wintering method involving immersion to great depths is recommended. But, judging by experience, they winter better in the ground. These plants include local species: loosestrife, marsh calamus, non-varietal marigolds, water iris (Iris pseudacorus), parasol, and hautynia.

You should not think that you will have to dig a special hole or trench on the site. The entire collection of coastal plants will be comfortably placed on empty garden beds. The soil here is loose, cultivated, and digging in small containers will not be difficult. The entire above-ground part of the plants must be cut off, and a layer of earth about 5 cm should be poured over the pot.

The success of wintering depends not only on the endurance of the plant itself, but also on the microclimate of the reservoir and the area as a whole. The same plants in one garden overwinter stably, but in another they die or take a long time to recover in the spring. Therefore, using trial methods, you need to select the wintering method that will be optimal in specific conditions.

To avoid unnecessary hassle associated with wintering, decorate the pond with unpretentious winter-hardy species. And if you dream of seeing water lilies in your pond, then try starting with one. Send it to the cellar for the winter and you will see: everything is not as difficult as it seems!

I.P. Suslov,

employee Botanical Garden UNN.