How tiles are laid diagonally. Laying tiles on the floor diagonally: detailed instructions

Surface finishing with tiles is labor-intensive and painstaking process, requiring patience and certain skills. Diagonal tiling looks more attractive and original. Designers resort to this method of installation when it is necessary to hide an unsuccessful layout or to visually expand the space.

Traditional horizontal or vertical installation, of course, simpler and more economical, but also less original. In addition, an experienced craftsman, knowing how to lay tiles diagonally, can reduce additional material consumption to a minimum.

Diagonal layout - advantages and disadvantages

You can glue tiles diagonally as follows: square shape, and rectangular. It all depends on the experience of the installer. The diagonal layout has some advantages:

• The rotating arrangement of tiles on the surface of the floor or wall visually moves the planes away from each other, visually expanding the area of ​​the room.
• Combination different colors and shades with a diagonal layout provides more opportunities for creating an interesting and unique room design.
• If you glue the tiles diagonally, you can easily hide the unevenness of the perimeter. With a traditional layout, edge elements of different widths are more noticeable.
• Having enough experience in finishing works, you can save at least 5% on material.

The disadvantages of diagonal pasting include:

• The complexity and complexity of the installation process. Marking, cutting and diagonal installation assume that the master has experience. A novice tiler will need maximum patience and concentration for such painstaking work.
• For diagonal laying, cut parts are used. Accurate marking and careful cutting require additional time and correct calculation of the number of tiles. With insufficient experience, errors in cutting and damage to the material are possible, increasing consumption.

Surface preparation

A smooth, pre-prepared surface facilitates and speeds up the process of tiling.

For floor unevenness of 1-2 cm to an experienced master no pre-leveling required. If the unevenness is about 2-3 cm, it is best to level the surface with a self-leveling poured floor. The cement mixture diluted with water is evenly distributed over the entire area using a needle roller. For differences from 3 to 10 cm, it is recommended to make a cement screed with sand and with the addition of expanded clay, if the curvature of the floor is above 10 cm. After complete hardening, finishing work can continue.

Leveling vertical surfaces requires special attention, since with a diagonal pattern, the bumps and curvature of the walls are especially noticeable. Minor wall defects are eliminated with putty; in case of complex distortions, it is recommended to cover the perimeter of the room with plasterboard.

The ceiling surface must be cleaned of loose plaster and whitewash, washed off greasy spots and glossy oil paint. The seams between the slabs, cracks and irregularities should be filled with putty.

The adhesion of tiles to the surface being glued is much higher when using special primers. Additionally, after the primer has dried, it can be applied to the surface to be pasted. thin layer liquid tile adhesive.

Tools and materials

Sufficient amount of tiles and necessary equipment will ensure a trouble-free and high-quality finishing process. Since diagonal laying involves the use large quantity cut parts, it is necessary to correctly calculate the amount of material and prepare the tools.

When laying tiles, notched and rubber spatulas are used, two levels: bubble and laser, a container for diluting the solution and a tape measure, glue and grout mixture, a level and a mallet, for marking, a cord and crayons or a pencil, crosses and spacers. How to cut tiles: with a tile cutter, glass cutter or grinder, each master decides for himself.

Laying methods: from the corner and from the center

The patterns for laying tiles diagonally on the floor and on the ceiling are identical. The method from the center is used more often, since there is usually more free space in the center of the room. The center of the room is determined by two cords stretched from diagonally opposite corners. On the ceiling, the reference point can be either the geometric center of the room or the place where the chandelier is attached. In a square room, markings for diagonal layouts are made along stretched cords. IN rectangular room or in a room with a complex configuration, first a square is determined from the center, then the rest of the space is marked out.

The method of gluing from the corner is more often used for bathrooms or small hallways, since the free space here is shifted. With this method, finishing is more painstaking, since it begins with gluing the cut half of the tile to the starting corner and for each new row a new measurement and cutting of the tiles is required.

Surface marking

Before laying tiles diagonally, each master marks the room in a way convenient for himself. Of course, it is better to have experience in carrying out such work.

For laying floor or ceiling tiles Dyed cords are used diagonally. By stretching them from opposite corners or from the centers of the walls, they make a “beat”. The resulting axes must be exactly perpendicular. Additional landmarks are drawn relative to the resulting lines.

Sometimes, with a complex design using tiles of different colors or sizes, the design is laid out without an adhesive layer, marks are made on the surface with crayons or a pencil, and the tiles on the reverse side are numbered and assembled.

You can lay tiles diagonally on the wall, as on the floor and ceiling, from the center. But it’s easier to mark according to the principle of an isosceles triangle. To do this, along the adjacent wall and ceiling or floor, segments are laid from the selected angle, equal diagonals laid tiles. The joined ends form a guide for laying the first solid tile.

Calculation of tiles diagonally

1. The area of ​​the surface to be glued is divided by the area of ​​one tile.
2. To place a complex configuration or intricate design on paper, a layout diagram is drawn up to scale and the number of whole tiles is calculated.

Since errors are possible during calculations and accidental damage to the material during cutting, it is recommended to purchase 10-15% more. Additional expenses may appear when fitting tiles with a pattern or ornament.

Laying tiles diagonally

With any installation method, the most difficult moment is laying the first tile. From her correct location the clear construction of the entire drawing depends.

Installation work using the “from the center” method, which allows you to maintain symmetry and proportions, is best carried out in sectors. There are two options for this method:

1. The first tile is laid strictly in the center, through the corners of which rays pass to the middle of the walls. The next 2 tiles are placed on its sidewalls, then a row of three parts, and thus the laying is carried out along a triangular area towards the wall. Then the opposite triangle is pasted over and so on.
2. In the second option, 4 tiles are mounted at the corners in the center of the surface. From each tile a diagonal is laid out along the markings. Then the space in the triangular sectors between the beams is covered.

After marking the surface according to the triangle principle, the first row of solid tiles will be installed, which is actually the second.

When placing tiles diagonally, there is a risk of displacement of each next row. To avoid this, experienced installers advise be sure to use cross-shaped clamps to maintain gaps between rows. Check the horizontal and vertical lines every 2-3 rows with a level.

The adhesive mixture corresponding to the type of surface and tile is applied with a notched trowel. To avoid deviations from the diagonal, the second row of solid tiles is installed immediately. The ends of each next row must coincide with the ends of the previous one.

Finish grout

The fixing crosses should be removed before the glue dries completely, and the seams should be cleaned of excess glue mixture.

When distributing the adhesive mixture on the surface in a layer different thicknesses Uneven tension is formed on an individual tile, and over time it may break or fall off.

It is not recommended to step on freshly laid floor tiles.

To avoid the pattern slipping, before laying the tiles diagonally on the wall, secure a flat wooden or metallic profile, on which the first row of solid tiles rests.

On a vertical surface, diagonal laying is carried out in 2-3 rows. Subsequent rows are laid after the previous ones have set. Rows of cut pieces adjacent to the corners, floor and ceiling are installed after all rows of solid tiles have been laid. The first row from the floor is glued last.

Ceramic tiles are popular and are used in many apartments and houses. Although laying tiles diagonally on the floor allows you to visually manipulate space and create interesting solutions– it is rarely used. The reason is an unfounded fear of increased requirements for qualifications and calculations.

Advantages of diagonal tile laying

There are several ways to lay tiles. Diagonal laying tiles have many advantages. Among the most noticeable and obvious for every apartment owner are:

• visual expansion of space. Tiles diagonally on the floor can literally move the walls apart, which is important for small rooms;
• Laying tiles diagonally on the floor allows you to create a neat design for a room with open walls. With a certain method of forming a pattern, you can make contouring, get rid of sloppy-looking, trimmed, or inappropriately shaped areas of the coating;
• Tiles diagonally on the floor allow you to create interesting artistic solutions. Among the most common are rhombuses located inside the area of ​​a rectangular pattern, various contours, work with elements different sizes, color manipulation.

At the same time, there are no increased requirements for the qualifications of the performer. If a person works well enough with the rectangular laying technique, then he knows exactly how to lay the tiles diagonally on the floor.

The minor difficulties that characterize laying tiles diagonally on the floor include the increased amount of work involved in trimming elements. This will have to be done carefully, with careful markings, preferably with a good and accurate tool. In this case, you can create any complex floor covering.

Flow calculation

Calculation of tiles on the floor diagonally is carried out according to the same rules as for the standard placement of laying elements. The only difference is that it is necessary to carefully determine the coverage area and give greater allowances for the increase in waste. The following steps are carried out:

• The laying area is divided into simple figures, triangles and rectangles;
• the area that the tiles on the floor will occupy is calculated for each area of ​​a simple shape;
• the resulting numbers are summed up;
• the total area is divided by the indicator of one tile on the floor;
• the resulting figure increases upward.

The number resulting from the calculation represents the number of ceramic elements that can be used to lay tiles on the floor without cutting, adjusting, lining pipes or other protrusions. To get more real figure, the calculated figure should be increased by 10%.

After this, the calculation of the tiles on the floor diagonally should take into account the increased yield of substandard residues when cutting off the covering elements. For such compensation, the calculated number of tiles according to preliminary calculations is increased by another 15%, rounded up. The estimate of purchase costs ends with the calculation of the number of packs. To do this, the last digit of the number of tiles is divided by the pieces in the package and the initial data for going to the store is obtained.

If you have the opportunity to buy tiles individually, you should not do this exactly according to the parameters obtained on paper. Laying tiles on the floor always requires allowance for accidentally split or incorrectly cut elements. Therefore, it is worth rounding the number of packs up to the nearest 0.5. For example, if during the calculation you received 10.1 packages, you need to buy 10.5. This will give you greater freedom of action and save time and nerves.

Initial marking

To make the pattern on the floor look neat, you need to carefully calculate how to lay the tiles on the floor diagonally. To do this, the following actions are taken:

• determine the center of the diagonal laying. To do this, in a rectangular room, it is enough to stretch two strings from corner to corner;
• create the direction of the angles, relative to which the tiles will be located diagonally on the floor. To do this, pull the threads through the center (pre-determined) of the laying area perpendicular to the corresponding walls.
• Using two directrix guides, you can easily position the tiles. Using strings stretched from corner to corner, it is easy to orient the centers of the sides of the installation element, and along lines perpendicular to the wall - the corners of the ceramics.

In order to lay the surface as accurately as possible, it is best to completely place all the elements of the future ornament without using adhesive composition. In this case, all the necessary consumables are used in the form of crosses or plastic wedges to form seams.

When laying out the rough design of the ornament, you do not need to immediately trim individual tiles. This will be done during the main work process, when the ceramics are mounted on tile adhesive. Rough layout is useful when working on artistic solutions. For example, it is easy to determine the location of diamonds, shift the pattern for optimal trimming or contouring, and solve other marking tasks that simplify future work.

Surface preparation

One of the important parts of the answer to the question of how to lay tiles diagonally on the floor lies in preparing the surface. It is desirable that it be as even as possible. If no screed was laid, the old coating should be repaired and leveled. For example, seal cracks, fill large holes and potholes.

If styling new tiles is carried out on previously laid tiles, then read how to prepare the surface here.

The installation base must be thoroughly cleaned. To do this, sweep away all the garbage, carry out wet cleaning. After drying, the surface is degreased, washing away grease stains and other similar contaminants with solvents. After this, wet cleaning is carried out again and the base is dried. The final operation is double priming. Before it is carried out, loose or fragile concrete bases can be treated with strengthening agents.

Laying technique

For renovations in apartments, if the performer of the work does not have the highest level qualifications and does not intend to create highly artistic solutions - there are two basic techniques for working with tiles diagonally.

Diagonal laying with a common contour

In small rooms, the following method is most often used: the tiles are laid diagonally, in which a pattern can be created by alternating colors; a contour is made along the perimeter of the room, laid out with rectangular parts. To carry out this work, you will need a line drawn perpendicular to the wall through the center of the room (as described in the preliminary marking section). A row of masonry running through the entire room is oriented along it.

The tiles are laid with glue, the corners are oriented along the string, and the thickness of the seams is immediately formed by laying crosses. At this stage it is important to place the coating elements as accurately as possible. To do this, you will need to try on how adjacent tiles will lie. But in general, with a certain amount of care, everything can be done accurately and accurately. After the main long row is formed, the remaining finishing elements are laid out.

When the diagonal laying is ready, the tiles are trimmed to form smooth edges. To do this, use a tile cutter, work slowly, cutting the ceramics diagonally. After forming the line, you can lay the contour with rectangular elements.

Working with diamonds

To create a coating where diamond-shaped areas with diagonal orientation of the tiles are located along the general background of the installation, careful marking will be required. In this case, the installation is not done from the center line.

You need to work from the walls, carefully checking the position of the main elements. This approach will allow you to work in diamond zones with minimum quantity corrections, smooth and neat seams. If the main covering is also laid using a diagonal technique, you should start laying from the corner farthest from the door.

As can be seen from the above, a diagonal pattern of ceramics on the floor is an achievable task for anyone. home handyman. It is only required to give increased tolerances for waste. They can increase if the room has a complex shape. And reach 20% in calculations if the performer of the work soberly assesses the level of his qualifications and is prepared for the fact that during cutting many frankly damaged coating elements may arise.

Laying tiles diagonally is one way to bring a sense of originality to your living space. Tile laid in this way will visually expand any space, making your home larger.

Before laying tiles diagonally, you need to remember a few simple rules:

• with this method of laying, the consumption of tiles will be greater than if this is done in the usual way.
• Do not lay tiles on uneven floors. Flaws on the surface will not allow you to create a good quality diagonal pattern.
• You need to purchase a quality tile cutter. As a last resort, you can use a grinder.
• you need to be patient. Laying tiles diagonally is a more labor-intensive process than horizontal-vertical laying.

Floor preparation

Floor preparation – the floor in a new room that has never had any leveling work done will most likely have imperfections. In order to fix this, first of all you need to remove large protrusions and fill cement mortar cracks. Next, you need to evaluate the degree of surface roughness and determine the volume necessary work. If the height differences do not exceed 30 mm, then you can get by with a self-leveling screed. For differences of up to 100 mm, filling with a cement-sand mixture will be required, and above 100 mm, expanded clay must be used so as not to load the floors.

Go to next stage preparation is possible after cement strainer completely dry. Its degree of drying can be checked using plastic film, which needs to cover the floor surface at night. If in the morning, on the side of the film that was lying on the screed, moisture appears, then the cement has not yet dried and you need to wait.

Laying

The next preparation step may be waterproofing, but this is not necessary.

Marking and laying out tiles – Once the floor is level, clean, and the screed is completely dry, you can begin marking. To do this, you will need a marking cord, which can be purchased at any hardware or hardware store. If you want to save a little money, you can make such a cord yourself at home. To do this, you will need to take a strong elastic rope and thoroughly rub it with a piece of chalk, after which the marking cord can be considered ready. For marking purposes, the cord must be stretched along the floor between two diagonal corners of the room. Having secured the ends, it is pulled up and sharply released. When the cord hits the floor, it will leave a colored line. The same must be done with the two remaining corners. The resulting lines intersecting in the center of the room will serve as markings for laying tiles diagonally on the floor.

The next stage, after marking, should be the preparatory layout of the tiles diagonally over the entire surface of the floor. This is done in order to establish the order in which it will need to be laid out to create a diagonal pattern. The diagonal layout of the tiles begins from the center of the room, where the marking lines intersect. One of the corners is selected where the first tile should be laid, after which we continue to lay out the entire diagonal to the wall. In the same way, you need to lay out the second diagonal. After this, lay out the entire tile on the floor, filling the remaining space between the diagonals. The tiles that end up against the wall will need to be cut to the required shape and size. The laid out tiles, before they are removed, must be numbered for convenience in further work.

Diagonal laying of tiles on glue is the most crucial moment, which in case of an error, it will be impossible to correct without losing the tiles.

How to lay tiles with glue to avoid mistakes? To do this, the tile adhesive solution is prepared in the volume required for the work. To glue tiles on the floor diagonally, you can use different kinds adhesives, their choice depends on the intensity of future use ceramic coating and personal material capabilities. Glue for tiles can be divided into three types: cement-sand mixture, adhesive mastics and dispersed adhesives. They differ in price, drying speed, consumption, composition, method preliminary preparation and other indicators that can be found by reading the product characteristics on the packaging or by consulting with the seller. Laying the tiles diagonally is done in the same order in which they were laid out when marking. It is best to use a notched trowel to apply the adhesive solution. The solution must be applied both to the back of the tile and to the floor surface, which will ensure better adhesion. It is necessary to ensure that the tiles are laid at the same level and do not protrude one above the other. If suddenly there is a need to adjust the height, this can be done by gentle tapping with a rubber hammer. Laying ceramic tiles on the floor requires some experience and if you are not sure that laying tiles on the floor diagonally will go without errors, then it is better to seek the help of a specialist.

Grouting joints - after laying the tiles on the floor is completed and they are securely glued, you need to start grouting. For this, special dry mixtures are used, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The method for preparing the grout for use will be indicated in the instructions on the package. Grout mixtures can be divided into two types. The first includes those that are used for seams with a width of no more than 5 mm. The second type includes grouts used for joints with a width of more than 5 mm. Their difference lies in the fact that in the second type of grout, sand is additionally added to the mixture of cement and additives, which is necessary to reduce shrinkage and prevent cracking. In stores you can see grouts based on synthetic resins, but their price will be higher than cement ones. Before starting grouting work, it is necessary to clean the tile seams from glue. For this you can use a regular kitchen knife or a spatula. The resulting solution is rubbed into all joints between the tiles using a rubber spatula. Before rubbing, it is recommended to moisten the seams with water to prevent shrinkage and cracking of the drying grout. The grout color must be selected in accordance with the color of the tile. If the solution gets on an already laid ceramic floor, it must be removed immediately before it dries.

That's it for styling floor tiles diagonally is considered complete.

As you know, tiles are laid along one of the walls or diagonally. The second method is more complex, however, it visually expands the space. Let's look at this method of laying tiles from the very beginning of the process to its completion.

Preparing the base and applying markings

The first thing that almost all tile-makers start with is choosing a guideline along which the tiles will be laid. And here many people make a simple mistake, defining themselves as a diagonal connecting the two corners of the room. As a result, the tiles are not laid out as smoothly as we would like. The whole point is that the diagonal should pass at an angle of 45 degrees, which means it will connect the corners only if the room is equilateral. In all other cases, the diagonal angle will change, as well as the perception of the laid tiles. In some cases, such an error is invisible, but it is still better to do without it.

Diagonal laying of tiles visually expands the space even in the smallest rooms

For correct installation diagonal tiles use an isosceles triangle, which is drawn along two adjacent walls. Identical sections are measured along the walls, the ends of which are connected by a third party. This side will be the guide for the side of the first tile. The segments can be of any length, but the best cut is considered to be the diagonal of the tile, thanks to which you will start laying the surface with a whole tile, and not with its pieces, which often lead to scattering.

Preparing the base is the simplest part of the process. For its high-quality execution, you will need a comb that will not allow you to lay the tiles crookedly even with all your efforts.

Sequence of work

It is easier to present the progress of work in the form step-by-step instructions. It should be noted that these rules apply to both floor and wall laying, but with only one caveat - the tiles on the wall must be supported, do not let them slide down.

The whole process can be divided into the following stages:

1. Marking.
2. Surface primer.
3. Primer with glue.
4. Working with a notched trowel.
5. Laying the main tiles.
6. Laying remaining tiles around the edges.
7. Grouting joints.

Photo gallery of work stages

Marking and priming

With marking using an isosceles triangle or tile diagonal, everything is clear. But what if we cover an uneven surface? In this case, you will have to specify the plane for laying the tiles. At the ends of the segments we drive in dowels and stretch the thread between them. This thread, by its height, indicates the height of the tile being laid and is located at horizon level. Thanks to such marks, it will be much easier for you to lay the first tile.

The primer allows the tiles to be placed as tightly as possible on the surface to be tiled.

Primer is an integral part of the work. If you bypass it, then after the glue has dried, you will have to reposition the tiles. The primer penetrates deeply and bonds upper layer base, while increasing the adhesion of the surface to the glue.

After the primer has been applied, the base should be left to dry for at least an hour.

Since the tiles are being laid seriously and for a long time, additional measures for priming will not be superfluous. Such a measure is priming with glue. Tile adhesive is diluted a little less frequently than required by the instructions, after which the surface of the floor and wall is plastered with it. This move allows you to fill all the unevenness that is invisible to the eye with glue, increasing the area of ​​contact between the tile and the base. The main thing is not to wait until this layer of glue dries.

Working with a spatula

Now it’s time to arm yourself with a notched trowel with a tooth depth of 10mm. Using this spatula, apply glue to the base and surface of the tile. By the way, it would be a good idea to prime the base of the tile with glue in the same way as the surface of the floor and wall. This way you will create high-quality adhesion of the tile to the surface. Sometimes masters miss this moment and do without it. As a result, after five years the tiles no longer serve properly. But tiles that are primed before installation can last for two decades without losing ground.

Notched trowel designed for applying adhesive to substrates and tiles

Laying tiles (video)

We orient the tile according to the drawn line or stretched thread. After we have laid the tile on the floor, we begin to tap it with a rubber hammer until excess glue appears from under it. Their appearance means that there are no more voids under the tiles. This means it's time to move on to the second tile. We put it down - we take it building level and check the plane of the finished floor. There are two points to note here. Ideally, the bubble should show the level in any direction, that is, no slopes are allowed. Also, there should be no free space between the tile and the level. If all these conditions are met, we continue installation.

We lay out the rest of the tiles, constantly checking the floor surface with a level. During this process, there is no need to be distracted by laying tiles near the walls and, therefore, cutting them. First, the bulk of the tiles need to be given time to dry, and only then proceed to the rest of the work.

To work with tiles in this case, you will need a tile cutter or grinder with a diamond wheel.

Grouting joints

This is the final stage of working with tiles. The dry mixture is diluted with water until it becomes thick sour cream, and then rubber spatula begin filling the joints between the tiles with the mixture.

Grouting joints should not be rushed, since if there is an error in the work, it will be almost impossible to correct the defect. After every one and a half to two square meters tiles, remove excess mortar from the joints with your finger and from the surface of the tiles with a dry cloth.

Tile calculation

It is worth briefly mentioning how to calculate the number of purchased tiles when laying diagonally. There is no difficulty here - we take measurements of the surface covered with tiles and add ten percent of the total amount. As a result, we obtain the required volume of tiles with a small reserve in case of unexpected material costs.

Tiles neatly laid diagonally look even more interesting than those laid in the usual way.

At its core, laying tiles diagonally is not much different from conventional laying. The only difference is the direction of laying and the amount of tiles used. Properly laid tiles can serve faithfully for decades, as is required of this coating.

Even among experts, laying wall or floor tiles at an angle is considered a difficult task. But, if you know some subtleties, you can achieve its ideal location. So, we will describe in detail how to lay tiles diagonally.

Pros and cons of diagonal laying

Designers very often use this technique when creating the most unusual interiors. Location of floor or wall tiles at an angle will help to advantageously beat the space and visually expand the room. The diagonal laying method also allows you to:

Zoning the space;

Visually expand the area;

Hide layout defects, small irregularities and protruding parts.

The room looks more spacious

However, laying at an angle of 45° is technically more difficult than conventional classic method. After all, the tiles adjacent to the walls will have to be cut, and this is a labor-intensive process. Plus, the probability of error during such work increases significantly. And the consumption of tiles when laying diagonally increases due to cutting.

Advice! When purchasing, be sure to compare several tiles. If the discrepancy in size is even a few millimeters, you will not be able to get a perfect drawing.

How to calculate tiles diagonally

To avoid mistakes, before starting calculations it is better to draw diagram on a regular sheet of paper. It is necessary to take into account every little detail: the location of pipes and radiators, the arrangement of furniture (this is necessary when creating complex designs), etc.

When laying without a pattern, the method is simpler: you just need to divide total area per area of ​​one tile;

When creating complex patterns, you will need a scale diagram and manual recalculation of the required number of tiles of different colors and sizes.

After counting the result obtained Be sure to add 10-20% of tiles for cutting.

Please also note that:
2 tiles cut in less than half count as one;

1 tile cut in more than half also counts as one (see picture).

Counting scheme

Surface preparation

Any, even the most expensive tile will look awkward if you stick it on uneven walls or gender Therefore, after removing the old coating, the surface must be leveled. This is an immutable rule when working with any type of tile and any method of laying it.

To enhance adhesion (adhesion), the surface is prime– the tile will hold much stronger. Do it twice, first with a primer deep penetration, and then, after it has completely dried, tile adhesive, diluted to the thickness of liquid sour cream.

Padding

Diagonal laying methods. Marking

The construction of the entire pattern depends on the location of the very first tile, so you need to pay more attention to this point. You can lay tiles at an angle using two different ways:

from the center: straight lines are drawn from the corners of the wall or floor, the point of their intersection will be the center from which work begins; the cut tiles are laid last;

"from the corner": this option is used more often in small spaces where there is little free space, it is more complex, since for each subsequent row the lines must be re-measured; laying begins with halves;

Laying from the corner

Laying from the “center” is possible in 2 options:

The first tile is located in the center of the intersection of lines coming from the corners (Fig. B), the next 2 are located on its sides, then there is a row of three, five, etc., until 1/4 of the entire surface, that is, the area, is laid out. limited by intersection lines;

The tiles are placed at the corners to the central point, first the diagonal is laid along the lines, then the space formed by the tiles (Fig. A).

Location from the center

Advice! It is more convenient to lay it along threads stretched tightly from corners or walls, located 5 cm from the floor.

Correct marking of tiles diagonally

Required tools and materials

In addition to the tile itself, we will need:

Dishes in which the adhesive solution will be mixed;

Building level;

Two spatulas: a serrated one for applying and leveling the mortar (the size of such a spatula depends on the size of the tile) and a rubber one
for grouting joints;

Bolt or tile cutter;

Rubber hammer (mallet) for knocking tiles into the right place;

Plastic crosses;

Tile adhesive;

Composition for grouting joints (fugue).

It's better to take glue cement based, with the addition of plasticizers. He's not afraid physical activity and is considered the most durable. When carrying out work in unheated rooms or choose frost-resistant compounds on the balcony.

The position of the adjacent tile relative to the first is verified by the building level

Laying tiles in stages

1. To avoid mistakes, you must first lay out the tiles on the floor according to the chosen pattern (don’t forget to place crosses), and only then, if you are completely satisfied with the result, start working.

2. When creating complex patterns, after laying out the “dry” tiles, they are numbered.

Numbering order

3. Glue is applied only on the base or only on the tiles. The first option is preferable for large premises and large tiles - this way the work goes faster. When applied to a wall or floor, you can distribute the solution at once so that it is enough for 4-5 tiles. When working in hard to reach places It’s more convenient to glue the tiles.

Applying glue

4. The adhesive begins to set after 15-20 minutes. During this time, it is necessary to check the position of the tile horizontally and vertically using a level, and press it firmly to the surface. All tiles must be strictly on the same line, without zigzag edges. Every 3 rows vertically and horizontally must be verified building level.

5. When working, it is most convenient to use a notched trowel - it is able to evenly distribute the glue over the surface.

Advice! To prevent the glue on the spatula from drying out, it must be constantly kept in water.

Laying scheme “from the corner”

6. The tile is lightly pressed and slightly moved from side to side, distributing the glue. This method will avoid the appearance of voids. There should be a little bit of glue squeezed out around the edges. Then carefully rubber mallet The tiles are moved to the right place.

Advice! When laying “from the corner”, work begins from the most visible part of the room.

7. To prevent the tile from slipping, when laying it on the walls, it is attached in 2-3 rows, the rest is glued only after the previous one has set.

8. Before next tile exhibit two crosses each, allowing you to accurately adjust the size of the seam. Its width depends on the size of the tile - the larger it is, the wider the seam is made.

9. The crosses are removed after the glue has set, but before it has completely dried. Excess glue from the seams is cleaned immediately before it hardens.

Arrangement of crosses

10. After passing one row, a flat board or rule is placed on it, which is lightly tapped with a mallet. This aligns the entire row. If any tile is located below the level, underneath it solution is added.

11. Stacking of scraps They start last, when the entire area is filled with tiles. First, fill the first triangle, bounded by a thread stretched from the corners, then the second, etc.

The tiles are laid first and do not require cutting.

12. Before starting cutting, mark a line with a pencil, attach paper tape along it (it helps to avoid chipping) and then cut the tile with a grinder or tile cutter. The edge is treated with a grinding stone or sandpaper.

Advice! The tiles will be easier to cut if you first soak them in water for 40 minutes.

Laying cut tiles

13. The seams begin to be rubbed (jointed) a week after the completion of work and the glue has completely dried. Wash the tiles well and begin to press the grout into the seams with a rubber spatula. Its excess is removed immediately before it dries out.

Grouting joints

Video: How to lay tiles on the floor diagonally