How to properly prune lilacs in spring. Formation of lilacs in the form of a standard tree

Lilac grown in the form of a tree looks especially decorative and not entirely ordinary, because we are accustomed to the bush form of lilac. Of course, you can buy standard lilacs, but why not try to grow it yourself.

They usually sell grafted standard lilac trees. You can grow a lilac tree from ordinary root shoots, which almost every bush has. If the variety is not important to you, take any young shoot, and if you take a shoot of a rooted varietal lilac bush, then your standard tree will be a varietal one.

Lilac is enough unpretentious plant, especially its older varieties. You can start forming it on a trunk either from a newly planted young shoot or from a young bush that is 2-3 years old.

1st year. We grow a lilac seedling without cutting or removing shoots if they appear, that is, without touching anything. Young plant the first two years they form the root system, and there is no need to interfere with it; the more powerful it is, the better. During the summer we add organic and mineral fertilizers, water regularly, and from the beginning of autumn we feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers so that the wood ripens well and the plant is ready for winter.

2nd year. Early spring. We select the strongest branch from those that have grown over the previous year, this will be our standard or trunk of lilac. We cut it at a right angle 1 cm above the strongest pair of buds, and pluck out one of them. Usually, last year’s top is weak after wintering, and by cutting it off you will allow a stronger shoot to grow. We tie the future trunk to a strong peg, which will support it for the first few years. It is best to carefully insert the stake on the north side of the plant. The shoot will continue to grow upward; as it grows, we tie it to a peg.
We do not touch the plant for the entire second year. Side shoots, the leaves on the trunk help thicken it, let them grow. We feed and water as in the first year.

3rd year. Early spring. We remove all growth around the trunk below the soil level. On the trunk we remove the shoots, if any, and all the side buds, leaving three to five upper pairs. We choose the height so that the upper pairs of buds are well developed. Above the last pair we cut off the top. In the top pair we pluck out one of the buds. Cover the tree trunk circle with mulch; it will help retain moisture and prevent root growth from growing.
In summer and autumn, she takes care of lilacs as usual, regularly watering and fertilizing. During the summer, it is necessary to remove all the growth that will grow both from the roots and on the trunk of the tree.

4th year. Early spring. Again we remove all root shoots and shoots, if there are any on the trunk below those that we left in the upper part.
May. We carefully examine the upper regrown shoots, cutting out those that turn out to be weak. We shorten the shoots to the first or second pair of buds from the trunk to form lush crown. At this stage you can vaccinate different varieties lilac, or you can leave the one that was originally grown.

IN further care behind standard lilac is that during the spring-summer season all excess growth is removed, and faded inflorescences in the crown are cut off and thin, broken and weak branches are removed, as well as branches that thicken the crown or fall out of it.

Anyone who has a garden growing old bush lilac knows that its foliage and new shoots compete with its own flowers for the right to survive for centuries. To keep the lilac alive, and most importantly, blooming, it must be periodically pruned. Now we will tell you in more detail how and when to do this.

Why prune lilacs?

If you leave the lilac to grow on its own, without care, you will get shrubs 4-6 m in height, with flowers at the very top. Lilac bushes that have a balance of old stems and new growth will bloom better. New shoots will not bloom for just a couple of years, but to keep mature branches flowering consistently, the plant must be constantly renewed through pruning. In general, by the time the new branch is 5cm in diameter, the old ones should be pruned. If you annually prune your lilacs for rejuvenation, the bushes will be strewn with flowers along their entire height.

When to prune lilacs?

New lilac bushes do not require pruning until they reach about 2 to 2.5 meters in height.

The time to prune mature shoots comes immediately after the lilac fades. New buds for next season are set almost immediately, and later pruning will mean damage to next year's blooms. Timely pruning gives new shoots more energy for growth and development.

How to prune lilacs correctly?

The rule for pruning lilacs is to trim no more than 1/3 of the old branches annually. This will rejuvenate and restore the bush, allowing new shoots to develop and old shoots to bloom stably.

Your goal is to have a lilac bush with 8-12 stems different ages, about 2.5-5 cm in diameter each.

You don't always want to remove 1/3 of the old branches. Start by trimming:

dead or diseased branches;
thin and fragile branches;
branches that are too thick (more than 5 cm in diameter).

Regular pruning of old branches should keep your bush from becoming too tall and bulky. Trimming only the top long branches makes the shape of the bush irregular. It's best to prune any branches that become too long or thick.

If you want your lilacs to be fuller and bushier, after trimming the old branches, prune new stems with the buds facing outward. This will lead to more extensive branching.

How to revive old lilacs?

If you have already launched your lilac bushes and have only read our material now, don’t worry! old lilac with thick trunks and a small number of flowers, fortunately, it is quite easy to bring back to life in about 3 years.

There are two approaches you can implement:

A less radical approach is to use the one-third rule described above. Trim 1/3 of the oldest branches annually. Start with the thickest branches closest to the ground. Although you will lose some flowers this year, pruning old lilac bushes is recommended in early spring, before foliage appears and blooms. This will make it easier for you to access the inner stems. After such pruning for three years, new shoots should make up the bulk of the bush and bloom profusely. From now on, you can do simple anti-aging pruning once a year, as described above.
If you can't stand the look of old, slow-blooming lilacs and need more quick way To bring the bush back to life, you can trim all branches located about 15-20 cm from the ground, in early spring, before the leaves appear. New shoots will develop throughout the season. Let them grow over the summer. Next spring, start pruning thin branches that are not growing well, and maintain healthy shoots, remembering to shape the bush. Then trim the shoots just above the bud, stimulating branching. Continue pruning after the flowering season and subsequent years. in the usual way, described above.

Do I need to remove faded lilac flowers?

The only time removing spent flowers will encourage more flowering is during the first few years of growing. Young plants should begin to bloom within 2-5 years after planting. While the plants are young, trimming spent flowers will provide the energy to develop more buds for the next season. Mature plants (from 5 years old) do not need such support.

Like any plant, lilac cannot bloom every year with the same intensity. For a few years it will bloom magnificently, then for a few years there will be a little less flowers. Flowering often depends on the weather. In a wet summer, your lilac will produce abundant flowering, in dry conditions there will be noticeably fewer flowers. So don't panic and give up on pruning. As long as your lilac is healthy, it will delight you with flowers as a reward for proper care.

Lilac is unpretentious, caring for it is quite simple, and therefore this shrub grows in many regions. But one point in caring for a plant should not be forgotten. The cause of the death of lilacs or simply their deterioration appearance(for example, a decrease in the size of the inflorescences) is the crown is too dense. That's why it's so important timely pruning lilac. In spring or autumn – when is it better to carry out this procedure? How to create a suitable form? How to protect a plant from possible negative consequences trimmings? Let's try to understand all these issues.

Pruning before flowering

Lilacs can be pruned in different months. Each of these procedures has its own significance.

For example, pruning before flowering (i.e. in early spring, between mid-March and early April) is important for several reasons.

It leads to more intensive growth of side shoots.
It helps to leave in advance only those branches on which buds appear. Thus, all the nutrients received by the plant will go specifically to the growth of these parts.
At this stage it is easier to form the crown.

You need to start pruning by removing all damaged branches. If they are broken, blackened or the branches have grown crooked, get rid of them.

You also need to trim off very old branches. They can be identified by the following characteristics:

curved shape;
the presence of lichen on them.

But also the young shoots that appeared after last year, may also be under attack. For example, if they grow in the center of the bush. They don't get it sunlight, nutrients also arrive in small quantities. And there is not enough space for intensive growth. They only overload the bush.

It is also better to get rid of shoots that did not survive winter cold. They will no longer be able to be revived.

But you shouldn’t trim the upper parts of the branches, shortening the bush, during this period. After all, there are kidneys there too.

Pruning after flowering

The next pruning should be done after flowering. It is best to do this between the end of May and mid-June.

During this pruning, the target is no longer old and damaged branches, because they are disposed of in early spring. Now you need to get rid of the inflorescences that dry out after flowering. If this is not done in time, seeds will begin to form on them. And all the nutrients received by the plant will be transferred to them. Because of this, you may not wait to bloom again in the spring.

Also, it is after flowering that long branches can be shortened. Now there is no need to worry about the developing buds. After pruning, you will notice that there are visible voids in the crown. There is nothing to be afraid of - by next spring they will be overgrown and new shoots will form.

When is it better to prune after flowering - immediately after it ends, in the spring, or can you wait until the fall? For beginning gardeners, this is a serious question. Pruning in the fall is not strictly prohibited. And if you did not have time to shorten the branches immediately after flowering, then you should do this in autumn period. But there is a risk that you will cut off parts with already forming buds. For this reason, flowering in spring may not begin at all. So it is better to prune before mid-summer.

Formative pruning

Pruning is needed not only to get rid of damaged branches. With its help you can change the shape of lilacs. Typically, such procedures begin when the bush reaches the age of three years.

Pruning must be planned in advance because it will take several years to create the shape.

In the first year you will have to get rid of a large number of branches. Ideally, you should leave no more than four. These should be the strongest and straightest branches that are free of any damage. Also, all of them should be sent to different sides. That is, even if there are two branches that are ideal for forming a bush, but they grow side by side and are directed in the same direction, you will have to get rid of one of them. It is also necessary to shorten the remaining branches by about half. They should all end at approximately the same level.
By the second year, branches will appear at the tops of the abandoned branches. You will also have to work on it, leaving only those forks that have become the strongest.
In the third year and beyond, you need to repeat the same steps - get rid of weak growths, maintaining the necessary shape.

In the future, you also need to control the resulting shape and prevent the formation of a large number of branches.

Standard trimming

Another type of form is standard. This way you can get a small tree. Firstly, it is a more unusual and beautiful shape. Secondly, in this way you will protect the bush from external influences. For example, if your lilac was chosen by a dog, which is why the lower branches constantly rot.

In the first year, immediately after planting, cut off all side branches. You need to leave only the central one, which is the strongest and strongest. During this year, remove young shoots that appear on the side of the remaining stem.
In the second year, when the lilac has grown to the required height, you need to stop its growth in this direction. To do this, the bush is pinched, that is, the top is removed. As a result, the shoots will begin to grow to the sides. But you will have to get rid of most of the shoots, keeping no more than the four strongest ones. It is these branches that will become the basis of the tree.
In the future, you need to proceed in the same way as with regular formative pruning. That is, every year we process these skeletal branches, leaving the strongest growths on them, and adjust the length of the branches.

The height of lilacs in the second year should be no higher than a meter, but not lower than sixty centimeters. If the lilac is too tall, it will be difficult to adjust its shape. And a low standard does not look very nice.

Anti-aging pruning

Over time, the lilac, which was not initially shaped or pruned in a timely manner, grows too much. Its branches grow in all directions, differ in length, appears a large number of old and damaged branches. Pruning old bushes will help produce rejuvenation. The scheme is quite simple.

The bush should also be trimmed before spring, before flowering begins. And if during regular annual pruning it is not recommended to shorten the branches so as not to remove the developing buds, then during anti-aging pruning you will have to do this. Yes, you will get fewer escapes. But this is a truly radical pruning that will bring positive results next spring.
Before pruning, you need to check whether the seedling is grafted. To do this, you need to inspect the trunk of the lilac. At the grafting site you will notice a change in the thickness of the trunk, as well as differences in the bark - below the grafting level it may be a different color or with a different pattern. Such lilacs can be pruned only above the grafting site. Otherwise, it will lose its characteristics and grow into an ordinary bush.
Very old and damaged branches must be removed without leaving stumps. Stronger specimens, which will become the basis for rejuvenated lilacs, can be cut by half or a third.
In the future, adjust the shape of the bush every year. On full recovery Lilacs will need about one to two seasons.

Processing slices

After pruning, the wounds remaining at the site where the branches were cut heal over time. However, this is not such a fast process, and during the period when new shoots have not yet formed, the lilac is in danger. The harm can be especially serious after removing thick branches, because fully formed wounds may not heal. Viruses and fungal spores often get into these holes. A collision with them can lead to the death of the bush, which is why it is so important to treat the pruning area.

After removing or shortening a branch, lightly trim the cut area with a very sharp knife.
If this area does not get moisture, then after about ten hours cracks will form on it. This means it's dried out upper layer, which is approximately 5 millimeters.
After this, you need to treat the cut area with garden varnish.

Garden var is special remedy, which accelerates wound healing and prevents pests from entering. It is sold in gardening stores. But you can cook it yourself. To do this you will need three ingredients:

rosin;
wax;
vegetable oil.

For one part of rosin you will need two parts of wax and oil. Melt rosin, add wax. Pour oil into the resulting liquid, stir and turn off the heat.

To prevent the mixture from separating, pour it into water after removing from heat. Then drain it, leaving the broth to dry. Store in closed containers.

Conclusion

An important procedure in caring for lilacs is pruning. It helps regulate the growth of the bush by getting rid of old branches that waste nutrients. You can also change the shape of lilacs using pruning. You can get either an ordinary bush or a beautiful tree. Pruning will help rejuvenate the lilac.

It is better to carry out this procedure in the spring - before and after flowering. You can prune lilacs in the fall, but then there is a risk that it will not bloom this season.

It is extremely important to treat the cut site so that the bush is not attacked by viruses.

Any plant belonging to the order of the Supremes has above-ground and underground systems. Refers to ground crown, trunk or stem, which is different monocots are called boles, while the plant itself will be called a bole. The underground part consists of the root system, which includes various skeletal roots and many fine root hairs.

The above-ground and underground systems are interconnected. The growth and development of one system is impossible without the growth and development of another. Therefore absolutely any external influence per crown has a direct effect on the root system of plants, and vice versa. The task of any gardener is to minimize external stimuli or try to ensure that the influence is always justified. Most often, on an intuitive level, a gardener adheres to certain standards for maintaining decorativeness.

To trim or not to trim?

In spring, there is a possible risk of removing a flower bud, which, in turn, is located at the very top of the shoot. It is also not recommended to level the lilac in height and carry out formative pruning.

Most often, formative pruning combines sanitary removal of shoots. It is carried out in the summer months immediately after flowering and includes:

Next, the top and branches are trimmed. This is done with the aim of forming an even and beautiful crown. Don’t forget about new growth, which also needs to be removed. It is important to remember that pruning the crown too tightly, which changes the functioning of the root system, can, in turn, provoke active growth of shoots.

In spring, deep digging of the soil is unacceptable, especially in tree trunk circles. In this case, the uppermost, most physiologically active roots are damaged. A reaction occurs aboveground part of the plant, namely thin and short shoots gaining weight. Flower buds form only on a well-lit part of the crown. Based on this reaction, lilacs are pruned annually to approximately 15–17% of total number branches. Under young plants, the soil is loosened shallowly - up to 8 cm, while under older plants it is necessary to dig up the soil up to 15 cm.

Many gardeners are of the opinion that pruning lilacs is completely unnecessary. The postulate is this: if it grows, let it grow as it wants and where it wants. However, opinions vary: some gardeners constantly try to level, trim, and file. Experience has shown that most often the end result of those who constantly trim something is worse than those of the first ones. Everyone knows that it is necessary to prune plants and also shape the crown, but do it once a year and do it correctly.

In common broadleaf lilac and some other species, shoots branch in a false dichotomous pattern. This happens when from top node A one-year-old shoot sprouts not one, but several new shoots. Many shoots are formed on one shoot due to the germination of buds on nodes located below, and this increases the total shoots on one bush.

Accordingly in the spring root system unable to increase much in size. Based on this, every year the plant has fewer and fewer shoots and inflorescences, and the overall decorative effect of the entire bush also sharply deteriorates. Only through proper annual pruning can crown thickening be avoided and improve general form the whole plant.

Trimming methods

To carry out the procedure yourself, you should learn how to prune lilacs correctly. There are two main ways to prune lilacs:

pruning branches, crowns and damaged shoots;
removing inflorescences that have already bloomed through a cut no more than 0.4 cm in diameter.

Lilacs will not grow in place of old inflorescences large size, so it is necessary to cut off old inflorescences. It is advisable to lubricate the cut well with garden varnish, otherwise the plant will begin to rot. The rot will subsequently penetrate into the middle of the skeletal branches, and gradually healthy tree will turn into dust.

Lilac can be grown as a small tree or bush. The crown of plants is formed at the age of three; adult bushes should have several trunks. Among a large number of shoots or branches, 4–5 of the largest and strongest are selected, which are directed in different directions relative to the center of the plant. All the rest are cut off along the ring, and in the future, in order to avoid the emergence of new shoots, the crown is thinned out every year in the central part.

Thanks to this method Thick branches do not appear in the crown, the removal of which would mean severe injury to the plant. For an old bush that has a large number of trunks, this is acceptable, since after removing the old shoot, a new one is formed in its place. The latter grows from a bud in the root zone, which will take two and a half years.

Standard plants have a single trunk, and because of this it is protected from any mechanical damage from the very beginning of crown formation. Lilacs are pruned in the spring, and this process begins with the goal of reducing the height of the trunk to 1 m. In the fall, the oculants begin to grow shoots, and next spring gardeners choose the six strongest and strongest. And all the rest are cut off along the ring. Left shoots should be approximately at the same distance so that the crown looks symmetrical. This will give the plant stability and strength.

In all subsequent years, shoots and young branches that are superfluous should be removed immediately. Shoots that grow from dormant buds must be removed as soon as they have sprouted. Thanks to this method, the cuts will never be more than 2-3 cm in diameter, and this, in turn, ensures the durability of the trunk and its skeletal branches. However, if for some reason one or several branches in the crown that have significant diameters were not removed in a timely manner, there is no need to trim them. Their presence will cause less harm to the plant than the wound caused by their removal.

When to prune

As a gardener, you will have to decide for yourself when and how to prune lilacs.

Warning! Never implement pruning lilacs in the summer, since it is in the summer months that the most active bud formation occurs. An inexperienced gardener can interfere with the process and unknowingly remove just those shoots that are primed for the most luxuriant flowering.

It is necessary to trim the crown in early spring or, which is most favorable for growth, after flowering has ended. Then the faded inflorescences and dry branches are removed.

Lilac lovers know that if the old inflorescences of such varieties as common and broadleaf lilac are not removed or removed late (in August-September), all the nutrients will go to formation of seeds and fruits. There will be nothing left to lay flower buds, and later, next spring, the plant will not bloom. Therefore, it is necessary to start pruning the inflorescences as soon as the lilac has faded.

There is a certain pattern: the more petals in flowers of any variety relative to their wild relatives, the less fruit they produce. The very first to be pruned are bushes whose flowers are not double - these are more than half of the lilac varieties. The second are semi-double inflorescences, such as: Marshall Lann, Violetta Belye. Last but not least, with double and densely double inflorescences: Madame Lemoine, Madame Casimir, Lights of Donbass, Taras Bulba, Lavoisier and others. In this case, by trimming the inflorescences, you can significantly improve the decorative appearance of lilacs.

Varieties that do not bear fruit, for example, Beauty of Moscow, Lesya Ukrainka, are pruned at any time; they can be pruned even in winter. Physiologically, the presence or absence of an inflorescence in their crown does not have any effect on the process of formation of flower buds. In these species, the inflorescences are most often not pruned, because, regardless of the number and yield of seeds, every year they bloom very luxuriantly. However, there is an exception - this is the Beijing Lilac, which, provided that fruiting occurs at the maximum level, cannot form flower buds and on next year will not bloom.

Spring pruning negatively affects the appearance of the lilac bush, since the pruning places (dips) may not disappear before flowering begins. That is, when the crown blooms next time, dark spots will appear there, which visually worsens the overall appearance of the bush.

Trimming – important element care ornamental shrubs. It promotes the formation of flower buds and plant rejuvenation. Lilac is also one of the crops whose crown it is desirable to constantly shape. How this manipulation should be performed in the spring and autumn periods and according to what scheme can be found in the article.

Why do they trim bushes?

Everyone knows that most plants consist of aboveground and underground parts, which are completely dependent on each other. Any impact on one of them is instantly reflected on the second. Therefore only correct pruning– the key to the well-being of the plant as a whole.

Lilac is no exception to the crowd. Its shoots are arranged in such a way that 2 branches sprout from each node. Over time, the root system is simply unable to provide the overgrown crown with nutrients, as a result of which the plant will be weak and very few buds will form on it.

For achievement decorative look Regular pruning of lilacs is required. Any deviation from the rules will cause irreparable damage. For those gardeners who prune something very often and thoughtlessly, the bushes may die completely.

Attention! By pruning lilacs every year and existing rules established experimentally, you can get bushes literally strewn with flowers over their entire height.

It should be borne in mind that lilac, like any other plant, “gets a shock” during pruning, and thick sections can rot in persistent wet weather. Experts recommend eliminating fertilizing during this period, and lubricating all wounds with brilliant green or other suitable antiseptic to avoid problems.

How to prune in the fall

Pruning lilacs in the autumn is required to achieve several goals:

removal of old and damaged branches;
bush rejuvenation;
giving the bush a beautiful shape, that is, its formation.

As usual, all these procedures are carried out early spring period, but many gardeners practice them in the fall.

Attention! The work should be done no later than a month before persistent cold weather. Otherwise, the plant will not have time to recover.

Sanitary pruning involves cutting out all shoots that have dried out or been damaged. This also includes the removal of spent inflorescences. The rejuvenating procedure is recommended to be performed only from the age of 15 years of the lilac bush. It includes pruning excess young shoots and shortening the tops. The latter is performed to activate the branching of lateral shoots. Formative pruning of lilac is also included in autumn care. Thanks to it, the plant is given its intended shape. For example, to get a bush in the shape of a cylinder, the following scheme is required:

On lilacs that have reached 3 years old, 4-5 main shoots are left, the growth of which is directed in different directions. The rest are carefully cut down to the ground. The tops of the remaining branches are trimmed at the same level.
For the second season, the most powerful, well-branched shoots are left. They should be at the top of the bush and point outward. The rest, which thicken the crown, are removed.
Each subsequent season, the scheme is repeated until the crown takes on the intended appearance. In this case, there should be no thickening or noticeable voids.

Such a scheme, in addition to its main purpose, will not allow the bush to grow old.

Attention! All pruning work should be done on a cloudy day. This will help avoid sun damage to injured shoots.

In addition to the cylinder, lilacs look good in standard form. But such plants cannot be called strong. They are often exposed to disease and freeze.

How to prune lilacs before and during flowering

Pruning lilacs in spring is mainly carried out for sanitary purposes. Remove all shoots that have darkened and broken over the winter. It is not recommended to heavily thin out lilacs at this time - there is a risk that the plant will “refuse” to throw out buds this season.

Formation of a lilac bush

In addition, in the spring, before the buds open, you should remove old branches covered with lichen or those that have cracks in the bark. Such shoots consume quite a lot nutrients, while flower buds do not form on them. Of the young shoots on the lilac, a few of the strongest ones are left in order to maintain the annual growth. They should grow upward and not disturb the shape of the crown. During the flowering period of lilacs, it is allowed to cut many fragrant inflorescences, which gardeners love to decorate their homes with. This procedure has a beneficial effect on the bush.

Attention! Can't break blooming lilac. An unsightly mark remains at the fracture site, into which pathogens can enter.

Pruning lilacs for rejuvenation

This procedure is performed on old, heavily overgrown lilac bushes. Afterwards, be sure to water and feed the plant. This is done in early spring, at a time when the buds have not yet blossomed, according to the following scheme:

Weak and unnecessary shoots are cut to ground level.
Those branches that you decide to leave are cut 40-60 cm from the root collar.
Next spring most the remaining shoots are cut into rings. On each stump you will get several strong branches.

Buds on a lilac bush are formed 3 years after the start of rejuvenation.

Attention! Heavy pruning of this type prolongs the decorative effect only for a few years. Old stumps quickly collapse and the plant dies.

Lilac is a plant that requires minimal care. Several bushes with flowers of different colors, pruned annually according to the rules, can become the main decoration of the entire site.