How to make a house from timber with your own hands. Building a house from timber: types of building timber, design features, stages of building construction

A full-fledged solid timber log house has always been not only considered a symbol of prosperity and good taste, but also demonstrated the owner’s desire to take care of the well-being and health of his household. Construction wooden house made of timber can be considered the most justified from an environmental point of view, maintaining a healthy atmosphere in the room and ensuring good thermal insulation. The widespread use of timber materials has always been hampered by the high price of timber and the rather complex technology of constructing a wooden house.

Features of the construction of premises and buildings made of timber

When using the technology of constructing wooden houses from timber, it is necessary to take into account that wood has always been a capricious material that requires careful compliance with all technological operations:

• Properties wooden beam depend on the moisture content of the wood, so during the construction process it is necessary to make allowances for possible shrinkage and deformation of timber beams;
• The technology for the construction of wooden houses and buildings involves the implementation large quantity manual operations for sawing, cutting grooves and joints, so the quality of construction depends on the carpentry skills of the builders;
• The construction of any wooden buildings from simple profiled timber is carried out in two stages: initially, the building frame, frame and roof are assembled, and only after six months or a year do finishing operations begin.

Important! After laying the walls, the house is made of lumber material humidity gradually increases, because of this the wood becomes softer and more pliable, which invariably leads to the building frame settling under its own weight.

Even laminated veneer lumber, the wood of which is impregnated with resins and adhesives, can change their rigidity, which leads to the formation of cracks and divergence of joints.

Highlights of the technology for constructing wooden log houses

In addition to its high sensitivity to conditions and storage method, wood also has such an unpleasant drawback as different strength and rigidity of the wooden material in different directions of application of force to the beam. Therefore, during the construction of a building, to obtain maximum adhesion strength of individual beams with their side surfaces, use special methods timber connections:

For sealing joints at joints, especially if construction is carried out from ordinary timber, be sure to use flax fiber tow; in the old days, grated dry moss was laid. Many builders consider moss more resistant to moisture and decay and often use it in construction. wooden baths, dachas or country cottages made of timber.

Important! Immediately after purchasing the material and at least two weeks before the start of construction, the timber must be treated with a high-quality antiseptic and fire retardant in an organic solvent.

How to build houses from timber

Simple construction technology and the relatively light weight of the material make it possible to assemble wooden buildings of almost any complexity, provided that the project timber house pre-calculated and worked out in detail with the layout of all the key elements of a wooden building.

The process of constructing the main frame of the house consists of the following steps:

• Laying the foundation;
• Assembly of walls, interwall bulkheads and ceilings;
• Assembly truss structure roofs, roofing and finishing of gables;
• Finishing operations.

The construction technology does not require the use of heavy lifting and transport equipment. Moreover, small wooden house IC can be built almost alone, but it is better to work with a team of two or three people, especially since the installation of a roof rafter frame measuring 4x5 m cannot be accomplished by one person.

How to make a foundation when building a timber box

It is generally accepted that the wooden frame structure of a timber building has high rigidity, so it can be installed on almost any known type of foundation. In practice, a newly folded structure, until settlement is completed and the walls are finally strengthened, has only 50% rigidity. After construction is completed, there are considerable cracks and gaps in the joints and joints, clogged with tow or moss. As the required humidity increases, the timber of the beam swells and sets into a rigid wooden box.

The most difficult time for a “fresh” timber house is winter with severe frosts. At that time wood material the walls dry out and partially lose their rigidity at the joints. If the construction of a house made of timber was carried out on insufficiently deeply twisted piles with a weak lower crown or an insufficiently rigid grillage, there is a danger of opening the crowns of the walls with the formation of cracks under the pressure of heaving soils.

Most often, for the construction of a wooden building, a pile or pile-grillage foundation is used; less often, for small frame houses, a strip, shallow version of the foundation can be used. Timber beams, like any wooden structural element, are especially sensitive to moisture and dampness, so the best choice would be to use pile-grillage types of foundation. Besides, competent arrangement vents and ventilation plinth parts buildings will provide good protection timber and long service life.

Laying timber walls

After installing the waterproofing, the first crown row of beams is laid on the grillage or foundation strip. When constructing a foundation strip in concrete surface Anchor bolts are embedded in increments of 60-70 cm, with the help of which the first row of timber is secured.

When laying out the first crown, you will need to make every effort to accurately align it with the horizon. concrete base under the timber If it was not possible to create a horizon, you will need to trim the surface of the beam, otherwise the next rows of wooden beams will lie unevenly, and the walls will turn out crooked. The trimming procedure sometimes has to be used, especially if the beams themselves have slight deviations. All cuts and surfaces must be treated with antiseptics and preservatives. At the next stage, in increments of 40-50 cm, logs are laid under the future floor.

Usually, before construction begins, wooden material is sorted and rejected to get rid of the most defective and crooked timber. Rejected parts are used for short inserts and tie-ins.

The connection and joining of the timber is carried out in the classic way, corners and side joints are connected “half-tree” with the obligatory ligation of the next row with a solid beam, as in the photo.

In the corners and at the insertion points of ceiling beams, joists and internal bulkheads, a dowel must be hammered in, connecting at least three rows of timber. In this case, you can use not only metal, but also a two-wedge version made of the same wood as the wall material.

Sometimes corner connections are made in the form lock connection « dovetail"or dressings with a cut at the T-shaped joint.

As the timber is laid on the walls, transverse beams are simultaneously inserted onto which the internal partitions and ceilings will be mounted. But while construction and construction wooden box the building is not completed, partitions cannot be installed. Even temporary working platforms for moving along walls are reduced to two or three boards.

During the construction of walls, the frame and vertical panels of the outer parts, porch, hallway, and outbuildings are assembled. They are also left uncovered for now.

Only after the ceiling beams have been laid and the rafter system with sheathing has been installed, can you proceed to laying the floors, installing partitions and partitions.

Finishing and finishing operations

If the construction of a wooden house from timber is made from dry or high-quality glued material, after six months you can install the roof. Otherwise, they put in a draft version. Installing a roof usually involves the use of a sliding connection at the point where the rafter rests on the top row of timber used as a mauerlat. At the ridge run, pairs of rafters are connected using a steel plate and bolts. Thus, during the process of settlement and subsidence of the walls, the rafter beams have the ability to change the slope, thereby compensating for the formation of a gap between the roof and the upper beam. Immediately after assembling the rafters, the sheathing is filled, a vapor barrier and waterproofing material are laid.

Roof gables are temporarily sewn up vertical lining and close plastic film until the end of the shrinkage processes. Finishing operations begin after the building has been standing for a year. Finishing comes down to repeated treatment with an antiseptic, caulking of cracks, installation of bulkheads and door hatches, windows. The internal surfaces of wooden walls after thermal insulation are most often covered with plasterboard.

Conclusion

Construction of a log house requires at least skills in working with wood and good knowledge of the methods and methods of joining timber. Having built a bathhouse or a small shed with your own hands, you can move on to building a summer house, and only after successfully building a wooden country house is it worth trying to work in a team of professional carpenters in order to fully understand the intricacies of building a house from timber.

In recommendations on how to build a house from timber with your own hands cheaply and beautifully, many construction projects are proposed. A novice craftsman may get confused by the abundance of descriptions of construction methods, but if you carefully analyze all the proposed methods, you will notice that the construction rules are described the same everywhere, and in order to build an inexpensive, beautiful, environmentally friendly home yourself, it is enough to have the skills to work with an electric saw, a hammer and a screwdriver .

A person decides: “I want to build a house from timber with my own hands,” and begins to look for information on how to do it cheaply and beautifully, but the proposed projects do not seem entirely suitable, but I want something of my own, individual. What to do in this case?

The problem is easily solved. Any building, regardless of size and layout features, consists of the following components:

• foundation;
• walls;
• roof;

Foundation

The choice of foundation type must be approached seriously, because this is the basis for the durability of the future structure. There are 3 main types of foundation:

• Tape. It's easiest to do it yourself. The strip structure is considered the most successful for building a country house or a small cottage.
• Pile. It is recommended for use when building on loose or silty soils. Concrete piles or asbestos pipes are installed as pillars in the trench.
• Slab. A concrete slab is used as a subfloor, on which a timber frame will be erected.

3D model pile foundation for future housing gives a comprehensive answer to the question of structural strength

Beginning builders, if the soil conditions allow (the soil is quite dense and dry or moderately moist), are recommended to give preference to the strip structure. In addition to ease of execution, this type of foundation has the following advantages:

• Functionality. On it you can build with your own hands not only a small house, but also a two-story house.
• Variability. On the proposed basis, it is possible to build not only square or rectangular buildings, but also additional extensions.
• Cheap and reliable. For small country houses, a small depth is enough, which means that concreting the base will be cheap. This provides no less strength than more expensive foundation options.
• Possibility to make a cellar. The presence of storage for household supplies has always been considered necessary for a country house.
• Aesthetics. The slightly protruding concrete part above the soil does not spoil the appearance of the building, and if desired, it can be beautifully decorated with tiles or decorative stone.

Foundation pouring process large area carried out by special construction organizations

Beginners will find it convenient to use the step-by-step guide:

1. Marking. It is recommended to pay maximum attention to this stage, because the configuration of the future house depends on the markings. To do this, at the location of the internal and external corners Pegs are placed, and a construction line is stretched between them. Before you start next stage construction, you need to measure the distance in all areas between the threads stretched along the inner and outer perimeter (it should be the same).
2. Digging trenches. The trenches are dug so that they protrude 10 cm on both sides of the marking thread; the depth must be at least 60 cm. If there is a need to construct a cellar, then at this stage a pit is dug under it.
3. Filling trenches. A 10 cm layer of moistened gravel or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the dug trench (moistening can be done after backfilling by generously pouring water on the crushed stone).
4. Pouring concrete. Prepared in advance concrete mortar poured over gravel in a layer of 5-10 cm.
5. Installation of spacers. For this, temporary wooden shields are used, which are connected on the inside by wooden panels fixed to the top, and supported on the outside by supports made of boards or any available material.
6. Reinforcement. Reinforced rods are laid along and across the resulting corridor of wooden panels in several layers, and at the intersection points the rods are fastened with wire.
7. Pouring formwork. After laying the reinforcement, the concrete solution is poured. To increase strength (so that no air bubbles remain in the concrete monolith), it is recommended to use a vibrator for concreting.

Poured foundation for a house under construction

After completing all work, you must wait 4 weeks (time for complete hardening concrete mixture), after which you can begin to build an inexpensive and practical log house with your own hands.

Walls

The construction of a house made of timber begins with laying 2 layers of roofing felt on the base along the entire perimeter. This waterproofing will provide reliable protection against moisture.

• Creation of dense waterproofing. Coat the roofing material well with bitumen and place it on top new leaf. Alternate bitumen with roofing felt until the thickness of the waterproofing layer is 30 cm.
• Installation of backing board. This stage in the technology of building a house from timber is not considered mandatory, but builders recommend installing a larch board 5 mm thick under the first crown. This is due to the fact that in the future, during repairs, replacing the wedding board will not only be faster, but will also cost less than replacing the entire lower crown.
• Laying the crowns. The first crown is laid on top of the backing board or waterproofing and, regardless of the chosen design, is always connected in half a tree. Subfloor boards are installed horizontally on it.
• Insulating material is laid on top of the beams. The optimal thermal insulation material is tape insulation, but you can use tow, flax or jute, which are fixed to the surface of the wood with a construction stapler. Insulation will prevent heat loss, prevent cold condensation from forming and reduce the risk of mold development.
• Construction of the first floor. The rest are laid on top of the first crown with a gasket of thermal insulation and fastened together using dowels (vertical pins). This is how the first floor is built (height about 3 m), leaving openings for the door and windows.

This is what a foundation looks like, waterproofed with materials intended for this purpose.

For one-story buildings, the construction of the log house can be considered complete. If you plan to build a second floor, then you need to lay a subfloor and wait at least 4 months for the wood to shrink. If this is not done, then during the shrinkage process the structure may deform and lose strength.

Before erecting the roof, it is also necessary to give the timber time to shrink.

Recommendations regarding shrinkage time are given to those who plan to use solid timber for construction. But most craftsmen advise building a house from profiled timber with your own hands. Unlike solid timber, glued (profiled) timber does not shrink, looks beautiful in appearance, but is more expensive.

Those who doubt their ability to beautifully and correctly build a house with their own hands are recommended to purchase a ready-made log house. This option will not be so cheap, and the layout options interior spaces It will be smaller, but pre-marked beams are much easier to assemble. In addition, you can always make an additional extension to the house from timber with your own hands.

Roof

Phased roof construction includes:

1. Floor installation. Ceiling beams are laid on the frame at a distance of 1 m from each other. The beams must lie strictly horizontal.
2. Installation of the roof frame. First, a rough frame is installed from rafters, which are located at a distance of about a meter from each other, and then boards or beams are attached to the rafters.
3. Installation of sheathing. It is attached step by step to the rafters at intervals of 40 cm.
4. Laying hydro- and thermal insulation. The material is fixed layer by layer to the rafters and ceiling beams.
5. Roof decking. The last stage the frame will be covered with roofing material. Here it is possible to use corrugated sheets made according to modern technologies, but you can use more cheap option and cover the roof with slate.

Done correctly roofing system not only provides protection from moisture, but also promotes air exchange

After the roof is installed, the door and window frames into the openings intended for them.

Floor

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the subfloor, and insulation is installed on top of it. For insulation you can use:

• Mineral wool. The use of mineral wool made using special technologies not only allows you to obtain a warm floor, but also provides additional protection against moisture penetration.
• Expanded polystyrene. The material is inexpensive and provides good thermal insulation.
• Sawdust. Eco-friendly and cheap material. The cost of a large 50-liter bag of sawdust will be 100-200 rubles. If you have a home sawmill, some craftsmen prefer to make sawdust themselves, using construction waste.
• Expanded clay. Burnt clay granules retain heat well and are not afraid of moisture. They are recommended to be used for floor insulation in damp rooms.

Finished floor boards are laid on top of the insulation and decorative finishing is carried out.

After completing the construction of the house, you can begin exterior and interior decorative finishing.

• Section size. A house built from 6x6 m timber with a cross-section of 80x140 mm will cost cheap, but this wall thickness is only suitable for country houses or summer buildings– in winter it will be cold in such housing. For regions where winter cold There are up to -30°, it is recommended to build from the thickest material, approximately 230x140 mm.
• Characteristics of the material. Solid or profiled timber is used for construction. The instructions on how to build a house from 150x150 mm laminated timber are exactly the same as for working with solid beams, the only difference is in the speed of construction (there is no need to wait for the wood to shrink). Profiled is more expensive, but looks beautiful and does not require additional finishing.

Various sections of laminated veneer lumber

Build housing from solid beams or build a house from laminated veneer lumber with your own hands - this is the individual choice of the builder. Just remember that solid beams do not look very aesthetically pleasing in appearance and require additional decoration.

After a step-by-step review of all the stages, the instructions on how to properly build a log house no longer seem too complicated. If you follow all the recommendations, you can cheaply build a strong, beautiful and durable home with your own hands.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

It must be admitted that in Lately becomes fashion trend relocation from urban to rural areas. Of course this decision It is not easy to accept and you need to understand that considerable troubles await the migrants ahead. The first thing that comes to mind is to remove a private house or repair the old one, but in this article we will talk about how to build a house from timber with your own hands.

We immediately need to decide on the criteria to which we will gravitate when designing and building a house, namely, relative cheapness, warmth of the room and comfort.

The customer is strongly recommended, regardless of the chosen material and method of construction, to delve into all stages of the construction process on his own, because only then can he achieve a positive result and get what he really wanted.

Advantages of building a house from timber

Of course, it is imperative to understand the advantages and disadvantages of the technology that will be used. First of all, you need to look at photos and videos of how to build a house from timber with your own hands.

With photo report and others auxiliary materials can be found on the corresponding page of the site.

Firstly, it is pleasant to be in a wooden house - this is an important fact. Secondly, the construction of such a house occurs quite quickly. (The box can be built by four people in 4 days).

Thirdly, if you use the technology mentioned in this material, you can move into a timber house immediately after completion of construction. Fourthly, the skill that would be an integral part of construction by other methods is not at all necessary.

It is important to identify the disadvantages. The main disadvantage is that a material such as wood is used, the harvesting of which is carried out using completely unacceptable methods, that is, they violate the environment. Secondly, a house made of timber cannot be abandoned without finishing. Despite the inexpensive construction, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to spend an impressive amount of money on finishing, completion, coating the timber with an antiseptic to protect rotting and fungus, etc. In addition, the building will need to be insulated, especially if it is built in areas with cold winters.

Construction technology

Of course, it is best to design a house made of timber with your own hands. One of the first steps is the labor-intensive marking for dowels.

Here it is better to contact a professional who could help with this stage. The technology is such that on each marked beam, dowels are drilled immediately: from above and from below, and this is done strictly according to a tape measure. As a result, if everything is accurately cut and trimmed, the timber easily fits one on top of the other.

It is necessary to determine the sequence of actions. For clarity, we recommend watching a video of building a house from timber with your own hands.

The first step is to prepare the workplace: they make some skeleton, then move the beams. Those with a hump are naturally placed on top, etc. That is, it is necessary to mark the beams - which one will go where. Another builder no longer thinks about which side will be the top and which will be the bottom - he already plans, seeing the markings. Next, other types of markings are made: end markings, etc.

Management and step-by-step instruction on building a house or Russian bathhouse from timber with your own hands.

How much does it cost to build a house?

For many Russians, a new gardening life begins every year with this question. After a newly minted landowner receives a plot of land, he will definitely face a difficult economic situation in our country.

Interesting offers from many construction companies- to build any turnkey structure may conflict with the family budget. Even if you give up architectural sophistication, building a house will be an expensive pleasure.

Often, the costs that will go into direct construction will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will rest on a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work are equal. Therefore, it is better to build a house yourself.
The main difficulty in self-construction at home is ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their implementation.

How to properly build a house from timber?

It is better to build a wooden house. After all, buildings made of wood are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work with. Wooden houses have an excellent microclimate.
You can go further in two ways. The first is to collect money and purchase the entire set at once building materials. This set includes

• lumber for ceilings and floors,
• timber for log house,
• edged and unedged boards,
• window and door blocks, etc.
• insulation made of flax or jute,
• roofing material,
• glassine,
• glass,
• roofing felt, g
• haul, staples, tow, etc.

The second way is to purchase all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.

It’s better to go the first route, as it will end up being cheaper. In addition, many companies, when purchasing a complete set of building materials, deliver them directly to the site for free.

It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the timber, one of the most important components of the future house, are no less than 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move away from these parameters.

Where to start building a house?

First of all, you need to go to the site, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there are no roads yet), determine the connection of the future house to the area, and the type of soil. The place where the garden house will be built is determined according to a plan for dividing the entire territory into separate sections. The position of the house must be agreed upon with the board of the dacha association.

First of all, it is necessary to draw a plot plan on a piece of paper on a certain scale, indicating specific dimensions and marking on it the place that will be allocated for the house. It is necessary to certify this plan to the board with the seal or signature of the responsible person.

Work on the site should begin with cutting down bushes, mowing grass, uprooting stumps and cutting off hummocks on the territory of the future construction site. For these works you need to have an axe, a shovel, a scythe, a hand winch, a crowbar and a sledgehammer. It is better to use a sledgehammer to remove stumps.
Once the area has been cleaned, you can move on to the next step.

First you need to determine the type of foundation. It is better to choose a strip foundation, since with its help you can get a finished warm foundation from a homogeneous material. solid foundation with the least amount of labor. And you won't have to do any more extra work for the manufacture and installation of fences and lintels. A simplified method for marking axes should be used without using scraps. After all, cast-offs make it very difficult to dig foundation trenches.

When digging a foundation, you need to remove the soil that is being removed away, otherwise it will interfere with construction. The fertile layer should be placed in a separate pile; it can be useful in gardening. A very important factor is the depth to which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will be influenced by the level of groundwater, the type of soil and the depth of freezing.

A shallow foundation with sand filling the bottom of the trench is best. To do this, sand was always poured into the trench in layers of 25 cm, compacted and watered. Before pouring concrete, the reinforcement was laid on a sand bed. There must be at least two reinforcement bars.

Broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting poles can be used as reinforcement. You can use a sledgehammer to break the concrete around the post reinforcement. Two pillars are enough. From one you can get 8-10 reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend it at the corners. To do this, you can use two railway spikes. Hammer them with ridges towards each other into a stump, beam or log so that there is a reinforcing rod between them. The rods that are placed must overlap each other by at least 20 cm. To prevent them from diverging when pouring concrete, it is better to tie the ends of the rods with wire where they overlap.

In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, you need to place stones, pieces of brick, and crushed stone under the bars so that the reinforcing bars are raised above the sand by at least 5 cm. If there is nothing to put the bars on, they can be hung. The crossbar covers the top of the trench and reinforcement is suspended from it. Then the trench is filled with concrete. It's better to buy ready-mixed concrete, preparing it by hand is very labor-intensive.

Pouring the foundation

It is better to fill the foundation as follows. Along the axes of the foundation, metal rods 40 cm long are inserted into the uncured concrete. These rods are immersed into the base of the foundation to a depth of 20 cm. The remaining 20 cm form the base of the foundation. Rods are inserted at the corners of the foundation, and then after 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will be connected into one whole base with the plinth, and will serve as the basis for attaching the plinth formwork panels.

In warm weather, the surface of fresh concrete should be protected with moss, grass, sawdust and moistened with water, or simply covered with roofing felt. Then it is necessary to make formwork panels. To do this, it is better to use edged boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The panels will have no gaps, the surface of the base does not require plaster. To save money, you can use unedged boards.

After preparing the boards, you need to assemble boards of the length and height that correspond to the plan. When finding the length of the shields, the initial size will be the thickness of the base and the distance between its center lines.

The panels are assembled on spacers laid out on the ground so that they face the inside of the base. smooth side. Using conventional blade clamps, the boards are pressed tightly against each other. Overlays are nailed to the shields, which are located at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. The height of the panels should be 10 cm above the concrete pouring level.

In any foundation, the base at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground should have ventilation windows. They should be opposite each other different sides base To create windows, you need to put asbestos-cement pipes into the formwork, tightly fitting the ends to the panels so that concrete does not pour into them

1. Installation of shields begins with the inner contour. Before this, pieces of wire are wound around the pins so that on both sides of the pins there are free ends of the wire, the length of which is at least 20 cm.
2. First, shields with locks are installed. They are temporarily fixed.
3. Then shields are placed next to them, the edges of which rest on the locks. The ends of the shields are attached to the locks with nails.
4. The panels of the internal contour, fastened together, are aligned relative to the axes of the foundation, and the diagonals at the corners are checked.
5. The upper and lower spacers are nailed, which determine the width of the base.
6. Then the outer contour panels are attached, their centers are aligned with certain marks on the foundation.
7. The nails in the upper and lower spacers are forgotten. The shields are knocked together. It is checked whether the installation of the shields is symmetrical relative to center lines base, and diagonals are measured at the outer corners.
8. Then we bend the nails upward, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the axes of the base.
9. In the upper part of the plinth, it is convenient to place the bars of the plinth reinforcement on spacers. Then the upper part of the base formwork is fastened with ties. Scraps of reinforcement are laid overlapping and tied with wire.
10. In this simple way, a rigid structure was obtained that is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before pouring concrete into the formwork, you need to mark the top pouring line on the boards. Marking the horizon level of the base begins from the most elevated corner on the ground. Marks are made 1-1.5 meters from the starting point and nails are driven in along them through the boards. The height of the base will be shown by the exposed ends of the nails. They will also serve as reference marks when pouring the base.

To create an ideal surface, it is necessary to make marks and constantly control the horizon using a hydraulic level. In hot weather, the poured base should be protected. The concrete needs to be kept in the formwork for about 2-3 days. During the process of building a house, it will gain the required strength.

Unloading construction materials

If during the construction of a house the entire set of building materials was ordered, then you need to think in advance where to unload them.
First, you need to remove the window and door blocks from the car. It is better to push other materials back, having first laid out unedged boards on the ground.

After the materials have been unloaded, they must be immediately sorted by type and laid out in predetermined places.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of a house is located in the corner between the property line and the road.

In this regard, building materials must be laid as follows: against the two walls of the base. It is advisable that the distance from the stack to the foundation be at least 3 meters. In order to prevent warping and sagging of the beams, they need to be laid on even pads laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as spacers. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is placed in a cage: one row is placed lengthwise, the other – across.

Boards are laid on linings made from scrap boards. A gap is left between the boards to allow the stack to “breathe.” Each new row of boards must be interspersed with spacers. It is necessary that the planed plane of the board faces down. U unedged boards The wide part should be facing down.

All stacks must be raised above the ground by at least 20-30 cm.
When all the material has been sorted and laid, it will be necessary to cover it from precipitation with roofing felt. An important detail: on any lumber you must immediately remove any remaining bark.
Approximate calculation of “related” materials for building a 6x6 house:
— 50 pieces of staples;
- 2 bales of tow;
— nails: 200 mm – 16 kg, 150 mm – 8 kg, 120 mm – 6 kg, 100 mm – 20 kg, 70 mm – 10 kg;
— 7 kg slate nails;
- nails for exterior and internal lining;
— 3 rolls of 15 m glassine for the ceiling and pediment;
— 12 rolls of 15 m of roofing felt for the base, for the subfloor and for the roof.

Floor and walls of a house made of timber

Now it's time to lay the first crown.
Before laying the bottom trim, you need to apply two layers of roofing material to the base around the entire perimeter. To do this, a strip of roofing material is bent lengthwise and laid on the base.

For tying, select smooth beams no cracks, jumps or signs of rot. To prevent water from getting into the cracks between the beams, you need to remove 10x10 mm chamfers on the upper edges. It is better to connect the beams at the corners using a tongue and groove. The dimensions of the tenon should be 4x4 cm, and the dimensions of the groove should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the tenon.

Using rectangular or round dowels and 200 mm nails, the beams are joined together in vertical plane.
It is better to cut curved beams into small pieces and lay them in window and door openings.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the antiseptic treatment of the beams of the first crown. Preheated oil should be used to lubricate the inside and bottom sides of the beams, while leaving the ends clean. The treated strapping beams are laid on the base and fastened together with staples.

After this, you need to immediately lay out the floor joists. As logs, beams can be used, which are laid every 1 m. If the width of the plinth allows, then the ends of the logs are laid on it. If it doesn’t allow it, then cuts are made into the harness, and the ends of the joists are inserted there.

For large spans, the logs are laid on brick or concrete pillars, which are buried 50 cm into the ground. The main requirement is that the position of the logs must be horizontal and the upper layers must have a single plane. For temporary flooring, unedged boards are laid on the joists.
Then you can start building the walls.

All the timber from which the house is built has the same length. But there are also window and door openings in the walls, so smaller beams may be needed. From one large timber You may end up with 3-4 smaller beams.
The beams are prepared for 2-3 crowns. A homogeneous, even layer of tow is placed on the lower crown; its thickness should be 1 cm. Tow is rolled outward on both sides of the beam by 5-6. The second crown is placed on the tow. Then the tow is put on again, etc. The beams of the new crown are connected with nails to the beams below and the overlying crowns. The first nails from the corner of the house are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Further nails are driven in after 1.5 m.

Window blocks are fastened to the wall beams with nails every 2-3 crowns.
If there is no window block, but you need to assemble a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the thickness of the log house. With the help of these boards, the beams of the opening are fixed and fastened in a vertical plane.

In this case, the nails are driven through these boards into the end of the beam. When erecting the walls of a house, it is important to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of the walls. The beams need to be fastened at the corners so that they do not come out.

A very crucial moment occurs when laying beams over door and window blocks. To avoid pinching them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is equal to 1/20 of the entire height of the log house.
Next you need to install the scaffolding. They are a flooring that rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the base and frame. In forests, flooring is very important. It must support at least three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.

For the manufacture of scaffolding, any timber can be used - bars, slabs, round timber, edged and unedged boards. If the scaffolding sag, you need to make it double. The laying of timber can be completed when the height between the floor and ceiling is at least 2.4 meters. The last crown must be thoroughly checked according to elevation marks and diagonals and fastened with staples at the corners. Now the walls are ready.

Roof

There are many different types of roofs: shed, gable, hip, hipped, cross, etc. But in dacha construction the most common are gable broken roofs. Due to their simplicity and ease of installation, they have become very popular. These roofs will also allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.

The roof is based on a reliable ceiling. It should consist of ceiling beams that are laid parallel to the facade. For a span of 6 meters in length, it is necessary to use beams with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. You can support floor beams using a permanent wall.

The distance between the floor beams should not be more than 1 m. Along the top frame of the log house, you need to mark the places where the floor beams need to be placed. Using a hydraulic level you need to achieve a general plane and strict horizontality. All irregularities that stick out must be carefully cut off with an ax.

It is necessary that the length of the floor beams exceed the width of the frame by two cornices.
Floor beams can be extended using pieces of 50x150 mm boards. At both ends of the beams, you need to cut out quarters 1 m long, insert extensions into them, connecting them with 150 mm nails to the beams. Then, for ease of installation, inserts with a depth of 3-5 cm are made on the extensions.

The prepared beams are raised to top harness log frame and placed in places on tow and nailed with 200 mm nails. Liners are inserted between the beams. With their help you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. The liners are nailed to the beam and to the trim with 200 mm nails. The finished floor is covered with unedged boards.

In order to correctly determine the proportions of the roof, you can make a template. It can be made on the ground from edged boards. It is better to make a life-size template. So, using a template, you can determine which one mansard roof needs to be built.

The next stage is the installation of the attic frame. It can be done transversely and longitudinally. In both cases, assembly is carried out on the ceiling. In the case of the transverse method, the frame profile is assembled from a U-shaped tie and 2 racks and installed on the desired ceiling beam of the house. The installed U-shaped elements are connected to each other by purlins.

The flatness of the walls and ceiling of the attic is difficult to achieve, just as curvature of the ceiling beams is possible. Therefore, it is better to use a longitudinal installation method.

To use this method, it is necessary to free the right side of the floor from the temporary flooring. The racks are laid on the ceiling beams and the upper purlin is attached to them with staples. Then the racks are fixed with braces. The frame span must be lifted without jerking; at the initial moment of lifting, beams must be placed under the run. After checking the plumb verticality of the racks, secure them with braces.

In order to facilitate installation, intermediate posts are installed under the purlins that are already raised. The same operations must be repeated on the other side. After the racks with purlins are raised and fastened, you need to tie them together using attic beams - floor ties.
When the attic beams are laid and fastened to the purlins with nails, you need to lay unedged boards on them.

Overlays assembled according to a template, ridge rafters, the crossbars are installed on the ties and secured with nails. Installation begins with the fronts, and then the intermediate ridge rafters are installed.
Now the attic frame is built.

House roof

This is a very responsible job that requires dexterity, knowledge, and skills.
We need to start with preparing the fronts. This preparation consists of installing two transverse and two vertical boards, the cross-section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontal-vertical position is checked and secured with nails.

Next you need to tighten the pediment with glassine. It will protect against moisture and protect the house from drafts. It is advisable to place the glassine strips overlapping and horizontally, and attach it to the posts with small nails or felt pins. Usually the pediment is sheathed with clapboard. It is better to sew the lower part of the pediment horizontally and the upper part vertically. This method is technologically advanced and very economical.

First, the vertical upper part is sewn up. You need to carefully ensure that the boards lie vertically and that the ridge of the catch fits tightly into the groove. You can stuff the catch, and then cut off its ends that protrude above the rafters with a hacksaw.

It is important to nail the drain board correctly. It needs to be nailed with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical parts of the sheathing. When sewing up the upper part of the gable, you need to remember that the facing should always be with the groove down. It is also necessary to constantly monitor horizontality.

Roof sheathing

We can say that this work is simple, but it has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is necessary that the sheathing protrudes beyond the dimensions of the house. Such a protrusion should be made to protect the front of the building from being hit storm water. Most often, an overhang of 50-70 cm is made. If the roof of the house is roofing material, then the size of the overhang does not play a special role.

If the roof is slate, then the size of the overhangs of the gable eaves must be accurately determined in accordance with the total length of the sheathing. This can be done using a very simple method. It is necessary to lay two boards parallel on the ground across the entire expected width of the roof. It is necessary to place slate on them with the required overlap in a whole wave or half wave.

Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid row and the sheathing is divided into two parts and the required overhang width is obtained.
After the overhang values ​​have been determined, two boards are nailed to each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice must correspond to the overhang of each board. Then it is nailed along the board to the ends of these projections.

Natural stops are obtained for the intermediate sheathing boards.
The sheathing can be made from unedged boards, if they are nailed downwards. There should be a gap of 5 cm between the boards. When laying the boards, alternate the butt part with the top. It is worth nailing edged boards at the bottom and top of the rafters.

After the sheathing is ready, you should immediately sheathe the gable cornices. This is a very labor-intensive task that requires certain skills, because you have to work in hard to reach places and at high altitude. You can immediately sew up the cornices with shields, which can be easily and calmly made on the ground. After they are made, all that remains is to lift them onto the roof and make room for placing the overlays between the sheathing boards.

If the need arises, you can cover the junction of the shield with the gable boards with flashings. Frontal boards should be nailed to the ends of the shields.
Next comes the roof. On initial stage During construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of roofing material. The rolls need to be lifted onto the roof and rolled out perpendicular to the ridge. It is necessary that each next strip the roofing material overlapped the other strip by at least 10-15 cm.

The first layer of roofing material can be attached with buttons, and the second - with wooden slats, which can be treated with paint, drying oil, machine oil or an antiseptic. It is better to cover a roof covered with roofing felt with a galvanized iron sheet along the ridge.

The ends of the roofing felt that hang down must be well secured.
Now the house is under a roof. Next will be finishing interior work. This is the most enjoyable stage in building a house.

Interior finishing work

This stage of construction should begin with filling the subfloor. First you need to fill the cranial bars along the lower edges of the joists. And then nail the subfloor boards to them. This flooring is covered with a layer of roofing material and insulation is placed on top of it. How can it be used as insulation? mineral wool or expanded clay. Glassine should be placed on top of the insulation.

The finished floor boards are placed face down on the joists, without hammering the nails in completely. After a year, you will need to pull out the nails, and turn the boards over and nail them down completely.
When flashing the ceiling, you need to decide where to leave the opening to the attic floor.

After the ceiling is lined, you need to move to the second floor. There, glassine is laid on the ceiling boards, insulation is placed, then glassine is added again and the floorboards are nailed.
After this, the attic ceiling is hemmed.

On the stage interior decoration door and window units. They are secured with wedges in the openings. The exposed blocks with the walls of the log house are fastened with 100-120 mm nails. Tow is packed into the cracks, the parts that protrude are cut off. The gap between the wall and the block is closed with platbands. Threshold door block should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.

When fixing window blocks, an inclined cornice should be nailed above the upper casing, and a drain should be installed on the bottom board.
We need to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. The simplest design is the one-flight staircase.

The lower part rests on the floor, and top part- on the wall of the attic opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, materials for the bowstring, railings and steps are prepared. To make a bowstring, it is better to purchase lumber with a cross-section of 60x200 mm.
For the steps it is necessary to select dry material with a thickness of at least 50 mm. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length must be identical.

The steps are laid on bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and fastened with 100 mm nails to the strings. The contact points of the staircase to the attic and to the floor are determined. Cuts are made, and the necessary workpiece is obtained, which fits tightly to the wall and floor.

The second string is cut out from this blank. Both strings are combined, and marks for future steps are applied on the outer edges. The bars are nailed to these marks, and then the steps. Steps with outside the bowstrings are nailed with decorative hats.

For the construction of country cottages, various wall materials, each of which has its own characteristics. Many private developers who want to have environmentally friendly and comfortable housing that does not require large construction costs choose timber. Today you can build a log house using modern, improved materials and technologies, resulting in a beautiful, reliable and durable cottage. What types of houses are made from profiled timber, photos and descriptions of the construction process are in our article.

If you are thinking about how to build a house in the forest, then timber is the best option.

What is timber

This is a building material that is made from wood by hewing. It has a square or rectangular cross-section. The minimum cross-sectional size is 10 by 10 cm, the maximum is 40 by 40. It is quite durable and “warm” natural material, allowing you to build houses on light, inexpensive foundations. Timber made of resinous wood saturates the cottage premises with phytoncides (useful bactericidal substances). In addition, it belongs to vapor-permeable materials. Thanks to this, a microclimate favorable for humans is formed inside the house.

The correct geometry of the timber facilitates the process of assembling a log house and allows you to build walls without cracks and gaps. During manufacturing, the timber is treated with special compounds that protect it from moisture, insects and rodents, while making the wood fire-resistant. After completing all stages of manufacturing, the material is dried using special equipment, as a result of which it shrinks by about 10%. There is also timber natural humidity, which dries (settles) under normal conditions for several months.

Professional developers use the following types timber for building a house:

profiled;

• insulated.

Profiled

This wood material with a rectangular cross-section, which has recesses designed for the most tight joining of individual bars with each other. The front side of such a beam can be round or flat. The inner side is usually flat. Profiled material eliminates the possibility of cracks in the wall. Thanks to the notches, the construction of the log house is very quick and easy.

Glued

Glued laminated timber is made from individual lamellas, which are pre-dried and then glued together with non-toxic glue. Thanks to the different directions of fibers in the lamellas, the glued material is very durable. It hardly shrinks. Such material may have longer length, which increases its versatility in use.

Insulated

This version of the beam is distinguished by the presence of a hole between the front and back side. This hole is filled with cellulose. The result is a material with improved thermal insulation characteristics.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects from construction companies, presented at the exhibition of houses “Low-Rise Country”.

Wood type

Timber for building houses is made from species that are less susceptible to rotting and rodents than others. Mostly it is larch, spruce or pine. The tree with the most attractive characteristics is larch. It is durable, fireproof, and does not rot even in sea water. The resin secreted by larch acts as a natural antiseptic that protects it from insects. The only disadvantage of this type of wood is its high cost.

More economical options spruce and pine are considered. Spruce is looser in structure and has many knots. However, when the right approach High-quality construction timber is made from it. Pine is more practical in all respects. In terms of its characteristics, it is second only to larch.

Which material to choose

Currently, profiled and laminated timber are especially actively used. The choice between these two options is based on their differences. Thus, laminated wood is produced in a wider range of standard sizes. Due to the fact that the lamellas can be “joined” in length, laminated veneer lumber can reach 18 linear meters, while profiled material has a length of up to 6 meters.

The thicker the wall elements, the better than walls it retains heat. However, solid profiled material with a cross-section of more than 200 cm is rarely used, since thick beams are difficult to dry. Glued has fewer restrictions here too. If desired, you can purchase laminated veneer lumber with a cross-section of 275 mm.

In terms of environmental friendliness, profiled material, which is made without the use of glue, is considered more attractive. But in this matter, it should be remembered that responsible manufacturers use adhesives only from the class of safe compounds. In addition, profiled timber also does not remain completely environmentally friendly, since it must be coated with protective substances.

The level of vapor permeability of profiled timber is higher. At the same time, the glued material gives minimal shrinkage and has more high strength and is a more fire-resistant type of construction wood. In addition, a house made of laminated veneer lumber can be prepared for moving in immediately after assembly, and a building made of profiled material should last about six months until the shrinkage process is completed. In general, the performance of laminated wood is more acceptable, but profiled wood costs about 30% less, so it is no less in demand.

Recently, insulated (or double) timber has been increasingly used. Houses made from it are warmer and stronger than from glued ones, since it is a structure made of wood, insulation and cross joints. Insulated timber weighs less than glued timber and is cheaper. However, before building a wooden house from this type of timber, you need to think carefully about its disadvantages. The main one is the rapid destruction of insulation, which cannot be replaced.

double timber

Video description

Laminated timber and thermo-timber, differences and cost of a turnkey house made of thermo-timber - see the following video:

Construction stages

The technology for building a house from timber is not particularly different from building a cottage from other building materials. But there are still some nuances.

Project

The engineering basis of a log house should be high-quality professional project, created by specialists who know how to properly build a house from timber. In architectural development, all characteristics of the material are taken into account, and solutions are used that enhance the advantages of wood buildings.

The timber is ideal for the construction of small and medium-sized houses. But if you wish, you can build a large wooden mansion with complex architecture. In any case, the length of the walls is calculated taking into account standard length timber (6 meters). In order for the designed log house to be built quickly, while leaving a minimum of waste, the length of the walls, a multiple of 2 or 3 meters, is included in the design.

Purchase of materials

Materials are purchased in accordance with the architect's calculations. It is very important to purchase all necessary timber single purchase. This is especially true for profiled wood, where the percentage of moisture content can vary significantly between batches.

Site preparation

Any construction begins with site preparation. At this stage, old buildings are dismantled, trees and shrubs that may interfere with construction are removed, and the ground is leveled.

Foundation

Timber cottages are built on strip foundations. Such a foundation is built in several steps. First, they dig a trench around the perimeter of the future building. Sand and crushed stone are poured onto the bottom. All this is compacted well. Next is installed wooden formwork and concrete is poured.

Subfloor

The construction of the timber building itself begins with laying the lower crowns and arranging the subfloor. At this stage, it is very important to know how to build a house from timber so that it turns out warm and dry. The first step is to ensure effective waterproofing foundation. After this, the first crown is laid from carefully processed beams. Next, the floor is installed.

For the subfloor, logs are first laid - usually with a cross-section of 150 by 100. To increase the reliability of the structure, a support made of wider beams is also laid. Floor boards are laid across the joists. Waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier are placed on top. After this, the subfloor is laid with 40 mm thick boards.

Box assembly

The walls of the log house are laid out by layering crowns. All crowns are pulled together using dowels. Indoor and outdoor wall structures are being built simultaneously. For fastening internal partitions On the inside of the front walls, cuts are made through a row into which the ends of the partition beams are recessed.

Roof

The roof consists of rafter system, battens for fastening roofing and the coating itself. First, the upper crown is pulled together by laying solid beams with a section of 100 by 150. Then they are made from boards and installed rafter legs. After this, the pediments are laid out.

To lay the covering, a sheathing is constructed. After this, the roof is insulated and the covering is laid.

Windows and doors

Door and window openings are framed by racks. It is very important to provide a competent system of grooves and technological gaps around the openings so that double-glazed windows and doors do not interfere with the natural shrinkage process. Otherwise, the wooden elements may become deformed and crack.

Video description

Installation of plastic windows in a timber house

Insulation

In construction timber houses Often a practice is used in which walls are built from a material with a small thickness, and then an insulation system is installed. You can insulate a house from the outside or from the inside. To make wood last longer, it is better not to cover it with insulation from the outside, but to insulate it internally. In this case, the wooden wall is insulated with hydro and vapor barrier, then insulation is installed, and another layer of vapor and waterproofing is installed on top. The insulating pie is covered with plasterboard, after which you can decorate the walls with any facing material.

Communications

All communications are connected to the house, according to a previously prepared project. Particular attention is paid to safety precautions when laying the electrical network and arranging the heating system.

Video description

Communications in a timber house

Finishing

Timber walls do not require facial finishing. The exception is houses with insulation. Usually, after the construction of the insulating pie, the walls are decorated with panels under natural wood so that the facades of the house and its interior walls formed a single harmonious composition.

The floor in the house is covered with any floor covering. Typically, the floors in log cottages are quite warm. However, if desired, you can install a “warm floor” system.

The ceiling can be left open or decorated with tension fabric. Other options ceiling decoration undesirable due to shrinkage.

Video description

Let's talk about materials, about the whole cycle production process, pros and cons of technology:

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of laminated veneer lumber from construction companies presented at the exhibition of Low-Rise Country houses.

Conclusion

Every year in the Moscow region they are increasingly building houses from timber. Such houses are built quite quickly. But if you yourself don’t know how to properly build a house from timber, then professional builders can carry out all the stages in a couple of months. The main thing is to take into account the characteristics of the materials and provide everything to ensure that it lasts as long as possible.