How to cover flowers for the winter at the dacha. How to cover perennial flowers for the winter

Most gardeners lovingly and skillfully care for the queen rose. However, the natural and climatic conditions are not always and not everywhere favorable for growing this wonderful flower. The arrival of winter is of particular concern to novice summer residents. About which roses are recommended to be covered for the winter, features of the shelter different varieties and varieties, optimal timing, the subtleties of preparing roses for shelter, as well as the most rational methods, will be covered in our article.

When to cover roses for the winter

It is very difficult to name specific dates when you can cover roses for the winter, because it primarily depends on the weather conditions of your region and its climatic features.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter only when stable sub-zero temperatures arrive, and these should not be isolated frosts, but preferably so that the weather “settles”, in other words, it is best to do this on frozen ground. As for a certain temperature, at night (and it’s better to take even the daily average) it should stabilize at around -5..-7 degrees. Thus, you need to constantly monitor the weather forecast.

Note! If snow also falls along with the drop in temperature, then you can cover directly on the snow.

But it is still possible to name approximate periods of shelter in the regions. So, in middle lane(Moscow region) roses are covered around the end of October - the first half of November, as well as in Leningrad region, and in the Volga region. IN northern regions(in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October (sometimes even November). In the south of Russia - in the late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.

Important! Roses should not be covered too early. Plants will simply suffer under cover if it is warm and rainy.

Video: when to cover roses for the winter

What roses need to be covered for the winter

Park roses , as a rule, they are very rarely covered for the winter, because They have quite high winter hardiness.

Park

And here floribunda, bush, ground cover, hybrid tea, climbing and standard roses it is necessary to cover. Moreover, the latter are quite difficult to cover.

Important! Hybrid tea roses do not have good winter hardiness, and often in the spring they have to be cut to zero, but if spud was sufficient, then the chance of finding living branches under it is quite high.

Hybrid tea

Video: shelter hybrid tea roses

Specifics of shelter for climbing roses

Obviously, it is quite difficult to cover climbing roses due to their great height.

Shelter technique climbing roses next:

Advice! Before laying the roses, you can tie them with twine so that you get a long sheaf (bundle) and the branches do not stick out in different sides. After this, under its own weight, the sheaf (bundle) of roses easily bends to the ground.

Video: covering climbing roses for the winter

Features of sheltering standard roses

It is not so easy to cover standard roses.

The specificity of this type of shelter is as follows: you dig up your rose on one side and carefully lay it down, pressing it with arches. You fill (spud up) the base with earth or sand, and then everything is as usual - spruce branches (or other branches) and spunbond (or other covering material). At the same time, do not forget to wrap the standard itself.

By the way! Some particularly scrupulous flower growers, in addition to wrapping the entire rose with covering material, also place a frame on top, which is also covered.

Video: how to cover a standard rose for the winter

But it is best not to bend the bushes (especially older ones, but very young ones are quite possible), but simply install a frame around it, or directly wrap it with covering material, including the standard.

Preparing roses for shelter for the winter

Before covering the roses, it is necessary to carry out the following activities to prepare the “queen of flowers” for winter:

Feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
Conduct autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).

Cover the cuts with garden varnish or even better with RanNet paste.
Collect all the trash accumulated during the warm season (after pruning and tearing off leaves), as it is a source of infections.
Treat against diseases and pests. For example, you can spray copper-containing drugs (copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or with specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oxychom. and etc.

Important! If you are covering roses with leaves, or the plant is sick, then treatment is required.

Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone different land, climate (weather). For example, some gardeners believe that hilling in the middle zone (Moscow region) is a blessing for roses, because they damp out much more often than they freeze out.

But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses often become ripe.

Advice! If the weather is still uncertain - either rain or thaw, it is better to install arches, put spunbond on top, and leave air vents on the sides. As soon as the cold weather sets in, the vents should be closed.

Cover.

Important! The shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides

Advice! It is much more convenient and practical to cover many roses at once, rather than one at a time. Therefore, it is recommended to grow them in rose gardens.

Covering with earth or hilling

The most “ancient” way to cover roses is to sprinkle them with earth.

However, its significant disadvantage is that during the thaw (for example, in late autumn) the roses are under a layer of soil warm up.

But if there are no such thaws in your region, then you can try.

At first, you simply lightly mound the base of the bush with earth, and after the onset of stable frosts, you cover the bush itself (but preferably with dry soil), making a mound about 30 cm high.

Advice! If you live in a private house and decide to cover the roses with soil, then, if possible, add some snow when you clear the paths. This way your favorite flowers will definitely not freeze.

Without arcs (air-dry)

To create a frame and provide air under the shelter, it is optimal to use spruce branches. Moreover, they can even be covered repeatedly, that is, it is not necessary to always use fresh branches; last year’s semi-dry ones are also suitable.

Important! It is not necessary or necessary to cut branches spruce branches directly from the trees, you can pick up broken branches that are lying on the ground, for example, after a strong wind.

If it is not possible to collect spruce branches in the forest, then you can use them instead branches from shrub pruning(only not sick ones), or even better, branches from the forest - again broken from birch or cut elderberry branches.

Please note! Hay will not work because... it scuttles and there are mice under it. Just like sawdust, because it gets wet during thaws, and when frost hits, it freezes and spoils the root collar, it turns black and becomes frozen in an ice cocoon.

Step-by-step instruction covering roses for the winter without arches (on branches):

On arcs (air-dry)

Step-by-step instructions for covering a rose for the winter on arches (air-dry method):

Video: how to cover roses for the winter (air-dry methods)

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and best covering materials

Interesting! Covering material is necessary for protection from icy winds in the pre-winter period and from sunburn in the spring.

Its installation on a frame (arches or branches) acts as a canopy so that the roses are not crushed by snow, and there is still air under it.

At all, The best covering material for roses is snow. If you have a lot of snow, then wintering will go well.

Covering with film

Many people use film for covering. However, you can cover roses with film only if you have the opportunity to come to the dacha until winter, as well as in the very early spring (or you live in a private house) in order to open the shelter and ventilate the roses during the onset of thaws. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the plants under the film will simply rot. In addition, frozen film is very difficult to remove in the spring (it can tear).

By the way! If you live in a rainy region, then on top of spunbond It is recommended to cover roses with film on the arches, but it is important not to cover the ends (leave vents). Or you can make a film tunnel shelter on arcs.

Note! In all other cases, you should never cover roses with film, they don’t breathe!

Covering with non-woven material (spunbond, agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, geotextile)

The advantage of covering with non-woven material is the fact that despite the fact that, for example, spunbond allows moisture to pass through, it still practically does not accumulate under such a covering, most of rolls down. Thus, the most optimal humidity and air conditions are maintained under the agrofibre.

If you find spunbond grade 30, 40 microns, then it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. If you have 60 microns, then you can use 1 layer, but it’s better to use 2 (moisture will definitely not seep into 2 layers).

Advice! You only need to use light (white) spunbond. Black - heats up much more during a thaw. The ground inside will begin to thaw earlier, and there will be more moisture. Black spunbond is usually used on beds (strawberry) or flower beds to prevent weeds from growing.

Video: covering roses for the winter using spruce branches and spunbond

Sugar sacks

It is quite inexpensive to cover roses with polypropylene sugar bags; they practically do not allow moisture to pass through and breathe well (thanks to climbing structure).

Advice! It is quite convenient to put the bags on a frame made of a cardboard box.

Covering with cardboard

Cardboard is a very good covering material that protects from the wind (it’s also a frame), but, unfortunately, it gets wet, so you need to lay another layer on top of it, for example, the same spunbond (2 layers) or film.

And some, like the gardener from the next video, first wrap the roses in spunbond, then cover them with cardboard, 2 more layers of spunbond on top and a final layer of film (but only on top, not on the sides, so that the cover can breathe).

Video: how to cover roses for the winter - a method with cardboard, spunbond and film

Conclusion! Thus, when choosing a covering material, you should adhere to the following rules.

Between shelter and rose shoots there must be space - air gap, it will protect the flowers from the cold.

The shelter must allow air to pass through, i.e. covering material it should be breathable so that there is no inside high humidity.

Important! Plastic basins and buckets are not suitable for shelter.

Video: how and with what to cover roses - tips on how to properly cover a rose garden

Features of covering roses in different regions

Depending on the climatic characteristics of the region where the “queen of flowers” is grown, there are some small nuances for covering roses for the winter.

In the south of Russia

If you live in a warm southern region, then for the winter it is enough to hill up the roses, for example, by covering the base (neck) with dry sawdust or just earth. After all, in general, even if the shoots freeze, new ones will grow from the neck.

In the middle zone (Moscow region), in the Urals and Siberia, everything is different.

In the middle zone (Moscow region)

The middle zone is a zone of risky farming, and there are both snowy and completely snowless winters. Therefore, the best shelter for roses in the middle zone (Moscow region) is air-dry. In other words, there must be air under the shelter, and it must be protected from precipitation.

In the Urals and Siberia

In principle, sheltering roses in the Urals and Siberia is similar to sheltering in the middle zone, but amateur flower growers advise avoiding hilling or using spruce branches (quite controversial) when covering, and simply making an air-dry shelter on arches, stretching, for example, geotextiles on top in 1 layer (density 150).

Video: hiding roses in the Urals and Siberia

How to preserve roses in winter in very cold northern regions

Very often, gardeners are completely unable to grow roses in the frosty northern regions (for example, in Tyumen), where in winter it can reach -50 and below.

In such climatic conditions it is better plant roses in a pot And For the winter, put it in a cellar or basement.

For normal storage in the cellar, a very low temperature must be maintained all winter - no higher than +4-5 degrees, optimally around 0. For more high temperature roses will begin to grow and stretch from lack of light.

Winter care for roses in pots in the cellar is as follows: first of all, you need to ensure that the earthen lump does not dry out “to death”, which means that you should periodically water it dry, adding snow to the pot.

In the spring, gradually begin to bring it into the light, especially if the plants begin to grow. And when the temperature starts to stay in the positive range (in April-May), then you can already take it out into the garden.

So that even novice gardeners can easily endure the winter with tender and beautiful flowers and delight them in the spring with a magical riot of colors, it is necessary to avoid mistakes in covering them for the winter. And for this it is very important to take into account the features various types and varieties of roses, optimal periods of shelter, as well as natural and climatic conditions in different regions and most suitable methods protection during thaws and frosts.

Video: how to properly cover roses for the winter

Important! If you you do not want so that under the shelter of a rose chewed by mice, then you need to put special sent baits or, alternatively, rags soaked in birch tar(small pieces).

In contact with

Sheltering plants for the winter is a special ritual that must be approached with all responsibility. Even knowing the basic rules for preparing plants for cold weather, snowfalls and unexpected thaws, you cannot do without consulting an experienced dendrologist.

The optimal period for covering plants for the winter occurs when the air temperature no longer rises above -5°C and does not fall below -10°C. This period begins in the second ten days of November.

First you need to decide which plants need shelter and what materials will be needed for this. Depending on the growth form and heat-loving nature of the plants, coniferous spruce branches, fallen leaves, coniferous litter, sawdust, burlap, agrofibre and others are used.

First of all, young plants of the current year, heat-loving perennials and exotics are covered. Special attention should be given to pets that were purchased and planted in the autumn.

Coniferous spruce branches are used as a material for covering plants for the winter only in cases where protection from cold winds, the adhesion of wet snow and the formation of an ice crust is needed. Coniferous branches contribute to the accumulation of snow and under their protection they overwinter well, holly, garden hibiscus, relatively frost-resistant varieties roses and grapes, irises, tulip and daffodil bulbs. Spruce branches cannot protect especially heat-loving sissies from severe frosts.

The most affordable and budget material for covering plants for the winter - this is foliage. Low-growing plants are covered with fallen dry leaves, but in this case there is a risk of damping off those we are trying to save. During thaws, under a dense and moist cover, moisture does not evaporate, the foliage undergoes a process of decomposition and especially delicate pets rot.

Snow can also serve as shelter for plants for the winter. But you can’t rely on this method alone.

Junipers, thujas, cypresses as evergreens are designed to decorate the garden with green colors even in winter period. But their columnar shapes require individual preparations for successful wintering. To do this, it will be enough to carefully press the branches to the trunk and, without pinching them, tie them in a spiral with a rope. This will allow the bushes to withstand the accumulation of wet snow and not lose their decorative shape in the future.

You also need to consider ways to protect evergreens from sunburn. To do this, you need to stock up in advance with special shadow shields, burlap or artificial materials for covering plants - Agrotex, agrofibre, etc. Direct impact sunlight, enhanced by reflection from the snow, burns the needles, so on sunny days they put up shields or wrap the crowns of plants in burlap.

Canopies made from wicker can also be used to cover plants that are susceptible to sunburn. To use them to protect plants from the cold, you need to pour pine litter under the cap or additionally cover it with spruce branches on top.

Plants with flexible branches, vines, climbing plants (climbing roses, grapes, clematis) bend to the ground. The top is covered with leaves, spruce branches and other materials. To ensure that the shelter lasts all winter, the structure is lightly sprinkled with soil.

The most painstaking process is the process of covering plants with fragile branches (hibiscus, maple). For this purpose, special frames are built. It is better to use wooden rods or stakes as material for the frame. The frame is placed around the plant in such a way as not to damage or break the branches. Spreading bushes are first carefully tied, then wrapped in burlap or covered with spruce branches. The entire structure also needs to be tied.

Preparing plants for winter is a very painstaking task, but dead exotics and yellow needles on evergreen favorites are unlikely to please anyone.

Natalya Vysotskaya, candidate s. -X. Sci.

With questions and comments on this article (and not only), you can contact Natalya directly on our website.

What is the best way to cover plants? Opinions differ, and discussions sometimes become very serious.

In our region, even frost-resistant crops have a hard time surviving the winter. What's the problem? Why do plants that are tolerant at -40°C die in winter? Many people rush to cover them early in the fall, but in the spring, on the contrary, they open them too late. So the plants die not from frost, but from sudden changes in temperature and high humidity under the shelter itself, from damping off and getting wet.
Unstable weather with sudden temperature changes and excess moisture provokes mechanical damage (tissue rupture), rotting of the root system, etc. Snow itself is good, but not sufficient material for shelter.

Tolerant ground cover crops overwinter well under it; for the rest, additional protection methods must be used. In addition, in our region, severe frosts can often begin in November, and snow can fall after the New Year. In such winters with little snow, it is almost impossible to preserve heat-loving crops without additional shelter. Which material to choose?

Old methods of hiding

Hilling up with earth

An old and time-tested method is suitable for shelter low growing plants. Moisture quickly drains from a plant covered with soil, but such mulch freezes in winter. Therefore, it is better to use something other than ordinary garden soil, but a mixture of peat and humus that is lighter in structure. In addition, when hilling, you cannot take the soil around the bush, thereby exposing the roots of the plant.

Spruce and pine spruce branches

It is traditionally used on farms where there is a forest nearby. Plants covered with it are protected from cold winds, sleet and freezing rain. It does not increase the frost resistance of the plants themselves, but a favorable air space with good ventilation is created under it. A light cover made of spruce branches also saves plants from the scorching rays of spring.

fallen leaves

A good covering material that reliably protects from the first snowless cold and, by overheating, helps to increase soil fertility. But not all foliage can be used for winter shelter. Oak is best; you can also use maple, birch or chestnut foliage. Foliage fruit trees do not use. Only dry foliage is suitable for shelter. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to collect it in mesh bags and place it in beds. With the help of such “pillows”, improvised houses for plants are obtained. However, it is in the foliage that mice like to hibernate, so be sure to place poisoned baits.

Straw or dried plant stems

They are similar in action to foliage; they cover perennial heat-loving crops and winter crops. As in the case of foliage, soaking leads to caking of the material, disruption of the air permeability of the shelter and, as a result, the risk of disease and death of plants.

Therefore, a film or other waterproof material (roofing paper) is placed on top of shelters made of foliage or straw, leaving air access from below.
Or they tie straw in bunches and make special mats, arranging shelters like a hut.

Modern methods of shelter

IN last years are gaining more and more popularity modern materials for covering plants. You don’t need to go to the forest to get them, they are not that expensive and are suitable for reusable use. But they also need to be handled correctly.

Sackcloth

This is a fairly strong and rigid fabric, made of linen or jute material. It does not contain impurities or additives, so it can be buried in the ground without worrying about the consequences. The trunks of young trees are tied with burlap, conifers are shaded from spring burns, cover the roses, large leaf hydrangeas and other heat-loving crops.

However, natural burlap not only allows moisture to pass through, but also absorbs it. Under damp burlap during a thaw, a favorable environment is created for the development of rot and mold, and in frost it can turn into a hard, icy shell.

Therefore, when insulating plants with burlap, try to leave between the plant and the fabric air gap.

You cannot use old bags of potatoes and other vegetables for shelter without treating them with fungicides. For winter shelter and spring shading, buy clean burlap in rolls.

Non-woven polypropylene covering material (lutrasil, spunbond, geotex and others)

The material allows air, moisture and light to pass through. Provides plant protection from both overheating and hypothermia. Can be used to cover the soil or be used for covering structures frame structures. Material with a density of 30 g/m2 is able to protect plants in frosts down to -7 °C, material with a density of 60 g/m2 can withstand strong winds and frosts down to -9 °C. In addition, non-woven material is well protected from pecking by birds, since its fibers are quite resistant to deformation.

In recent years, ready-made reusable covers made of spunbond have been gaining popularity. They are quite durable and do not contain harmful impurities. For agricultural purposes, UV-stabilized spunbond or Agrospanbond is used. This cover protects plants from exposure low temperatures, fading in the sun, as well as from rodents and insects, resistant to external influences environment, does not impede air exchange.

Ready-made greenhouses are produced to cover roses for the winter.: a cover made of non-woven covering material is quickly put on a frame made of polypropylene tubes, installed above the plant.

Photos for the material: Oksana Kapitan, Vladimir Lukyanov, Yulia Popova, Shutterstock/TASS
Thank you the “Magazin dlya Nursery” company for assistance in preparing the material and providing photographs.

EXPERT OPINION
Ksenia Ishevskaya, agronomist at the Nursery Store company
Plants are covered for the winter in the middle zone, usually in late October - early November. After the first frost, it is necessary to cut off the entire above-ground part of perennials. herbaceous plants to a height of 5-10 cm. Most perennials respond well to hilling the base of the bushes with humus or earth, which gives additional protection for the roots. Non-woven materials (lutrasil, spunbond, etc.) with a density of 40-60 g/m2 are suitable for covering the upper part of plants, white or light shades other colors so as not to cause overheating covered plants in early spring.
To cover the trunks of young fruit tree seedlings, it is convenient to use cut-bandages from nonwoven material: the trunk is tightly wrapped with them up to the skeletal branches. This not only protects them from frost, but also becomes an obstacle for mice and hares. To cover plants such as hydrangea, young conifers, and rhododendons, it is convenient to use cover-covers made of non-woven material, secured at the bottom and top with special laces.
The cover is put on the plant and tightened. During winter thaws, such shelters must be ventilated to avoid wetting and dampening of the root collar of plants.
Coniferous plants big size in November it is necessary to protect against early spring sunburn. To do this, the crown is loosely tied with non-woven light material with a density of 30-40 g/m2, leaving holes. In spring, the shelter is removed when the average daily air temperature remains stable at +1...+3 °C, usually in April.

In order for plants to survive safely winter frosts, in the fall they need to create special shelters. Certain types of shrubs are so unpretentious that they can winter in open ground without mulching and additional protection from the cold, but most perennials still need to be wrapped. Every gardener should know which perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter and be able to choose the right covering material for plants.

Features of wintering perennials

Flowers are called perennial because after the growing season their roots, and in some cases the above-ground part, do not die. Plant development stops in winter to begin active growth in spring. Based on the type of root system, perennials are divided into:

bulbous;
rhizomatous;
tuber-bulbous;
tuberous.

In the warm season, the above-ground parts of flowers accumulate nutrients for the winter, its pruning is carried out with the arrival of the first frost, which in most regions of Russia occurs at the end of September-October. Trimming perennial bushes needed to:

The cutting height depends on the structure and height ornamental plants. Low-growing small bushes are cut at ground level; for more powerful specimens with strong, semi-lignified branches, the lower part of the shoots is left intact. With their help, in the spring it will be possible to accurately determine the location of the bush/flower, and in the winter they will serve to additionally retain snow, which will be a natural protection against freezing. The most winter-hardy perennials, for example, aquilegia, cornflower, rudbeckia, and astilbe, are pruned, leaving no more than 5 cm of stems above the soil.

Delphiniums and other tall plants with strong hollow stems are cut to 25 cm, otherwise water entering the branches will cause rotting of the upper part of the rhizome and destroy the crop. Irises are also prepared for winter: the leaves are cut to a height of 10 cm 2 weeks before the onset of cold weather. The climbing annual shoots of clematis and similar crops are shortened so that their green parts do not freeze or rot in the shelter. Care for everyone perennial flower depends on the characteristics of the region and its winter hardiness.

What flowers to cover for the winter

The time has come when it is time to insulate heat-loving perennials must be judged by the weather in a particular region. It is not recommended to do this early, since in October (after the first serious cold snap) sometimes very warm weather sets in. Then the prematurely wrapped flower may fade. TO perennial plants you need to add garden soil and mulch while the soil is still loose, and cut shoots should be covered with spruce branches, straw and film after the onset of persistent cold weather.

Roses

Inexperienced gardeners are wondering, “Do I need to cover roses for the winter?” Since cultivated varieties of flowers often freeze, they need to be wrapped during cold weather. Probably, rose bushes are not adapted to extreme cold, but weak temperatures are often to blame for their freezing winter shelter. Preparing bush plants for winter depends on the group to which the flower belongs. For example, hybrid tea varieties of roses and certain types of climbing roses are considered the most delicate.

Is it possible not to cover roses for the winter? temperate climate? If in your region winter season relatively warm, and the thermometer reading does not drop below -10, then miniature roses and floribundas do not need to be wrapped - they tolerate cold well. Among the park varieties there are even “walruses”, which do not need to be insulated even in more severe frosts. However, if you do not know what types of roses grow in your area, it is better to cover them for the winter, which will rid the bushes of excess moisture and create a stable microclimate without sudden temperature changes.

Roses need to be prepared for winter from the end of August, when the bushes stop being watered and fed. nitrogen fertilizers. In September, they refuse to loosen the soil so as not to prematurely awaken the buds that are still “sleeping” and not to stimulate the growth of new shoots. All rose bushes, with the exception of park and climbing ones, are pruned, which is carried out approximately at the height where the top of the future shelter ends. Leaves and branches that have not had time to ripen and have a light green color are cut off, and woody ones are trimmed shorter.

Before covering roses for the winter, they are treated Bordeaux mixture or 3% iron sulfate. Under each bush, fallen leaves, grass, and debris are raked out to prevent the development of spores of pathogenic fungi. After treatment, each bush is hilled to a height of about 20 cm, which improves the ability of the roots to “breathe”. In winter, soft soil holds air better, preventing the root system from freezing.

Hilling and pruning help the crop to withstand frosts more easily and avoid fungal diseases. They begin to prepare roses for covering in mid-October or later, after the first frosts have completed and a stable temperature has been established. subzero temperature(about 5-6 degrees). Light frosts are not scary for roses: thanks to them, the shoots are hardened and finally ripen. It is impossible to cover the bushes prematurely, since the growth of new branches may begin due to rising temperatures, and the roots will dry out due to lack of air.

Before insulating roses for the winter, you should wait for dry weather, so that during cold weather the soil will maintain moderate moisture and the risk of developing fungal diseases will be minimized. For any type of shelter chosen, the gardener must leave an air layer between the bush and the insulation. This is important because roses, as a rule, do not freeze out in winter, but become damp or wet during prolonged February thaws due to the dense material surrounding the plant, which disrupts the normal supply of oxygen.

Experienced gardeners advise covering crops using an air-dry method. It provides plants with relatively stable temperature air (from 0 to -4 degrees) and provides good aeration. Work on creating an air-dry shelter has the following sequence:

is being built metal carcass about 60 cm high, which is installed around the bush;
insulation (glassine, waterproofing paper or cardboard panels) is laid out on top of the frame and secured with twine;
the shelter needs to be closed plastic film which will serve as a waterproofing agent;
The bottom of the film should be sprinkled with soil.

Bulbous

What perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter? Most small-bulbous crops such as blueberries, muscari, hazel grouse, snowdrops, herbaceous peonies, crocuses, and daylilies are not covered for the winter, since they are winter-hardy and easily tolerate frost. Flowers planted before mid-September have time to take root well and do not freeze out over the winter. However, later rooting of seedlings requires mulching of the top layer of soil.

It is recommended to protect winter-hardy Dutch bulbous plants (tulips, lilies, daffodils, phlox, primroses) planted in the fall with spruce branches, which will protect the flower not only from the cold, but also from mice that like to feast on the bulbs. It is better to cover the top of the spruce branches with film and cut shoots of perennials (that is, a dry shelter is formed). It is not recommended to cover flowers with straw for the winter, as this will create excellent conditions for the reproduction of mice. Important condition wintering for everyone bulbous plants– non-flooding landing site spring waters.

Rhizomatous

In autumn, plant growth stops, and the above-ground part of some herbaceous crops dies. Dried foliage and stems are cut off to prevent fungi from developing in them. Other rhizomatous perennial flowers whose leaves remain green after frost (bergenia, iris, hellebore) are not subject to complete pruning, but only partial pruning. They need wintering greenery in the spring for development. An example of shelters for common perennial rhizomatous flowers:

Aquilegia (catchment). In October, the leaves and stems are cut almost to the base (5-7 cm remains above the ground). Aquilegia overwinters without shelter, but its exposed roots need to be covered with humus, plain soil or peat.
Astilbe. Young rooted flowers can overwinter without insulation, but they are still prepared for winter by cutting off the dry ground part in late autumn and covering the roots with peat/humus (the optimal layer is 5 cm). Old astilbe plantings are covered with dry leaves and film to prevent the leaves from rotting due to precipitation.
Asters. Perennial asters the stems are trimmed to the base (stumps 5-10 cm high remain). The plant should be covered for the winter in dry weather, while the roots are covered with dry leaves, humus, and covered with spruce branches. Perennial asters are able to overwinter without shelter, but weakened by late flowering, they will produce fewer shoots the next season.
Badan. The roots of the plant overwinter well without shelter under a layer of snow. However, to prevent snowdrifts from being blown away by the wind on a hill, you need to build a shelter from dry branches.

Winter covering material for plants

When the ground parts of perennial flowers die off or in cases where you are not sure of the frost resistance of the plant, it is better to cover it for the winter. Taking into account the size and type, the following is used to protect flowers:

Spruce/pine spruce branches. Needle branches - available material in forested regions. The spruce branches do not get wet, provide an additional layer of air, and hold snow well, which protects plants from frost. In addition, the thorns repel rodents, so spruce branches are especially valued for covering young seedlings. In early spring the material protects the plant from sunburn. The disadvantage of spruce branches is that it oxidizes the soil, while some plants prefer an alkaline environment. Sometimes the needles are sick and branches with plaque can infect healthy flowers, so the spruce branches are carefully examined before use.
A layer of mulch or soil. It is effective to hill up the soil in tree trunk circles with peat to protect the roots from frost, but it will not become a full-fledged insulator. In addition, the soil is not suitable for all crops, since it acidifies the soil and actively absorbs moisture, which causes it to become compacted and worse protect the flowers from the cold.
Shavings, sawdust. They only need to mulch the soil. Like needles, they serve as oxidizing agents - this fact should also be taken into account in accordance with the characteristics of the bush/flower. Before mulching the soil, the sawdust is thoroughly dried so that it does not get wet during the winter, and the top is covered with polyethylene. Minus this method– sawdust may be banned.
Non-woven material. Spunbond or agrofibre are made from polypropylene - the material is durable, lightweight, easy to use, protects well from frost, allowing air to pass through freely. However, it cannot cope with severe frosts, so it is not suitable for regions with an unstable climate. In addition, spunbond creates a humid microclimate, so it must be fixed to frames to avoid contact with shoots.
Bag. Rough thick fabric used to cover the trunks of young bushes and heat-loving perennials. Burlap cover - no best method protection from the cold, since it gets wet, and in frosty conditions it freezes, resembling an ice dome. It is recommended to use only new covering material to avoid the appearance of harmful microbes on the bushes.
Lutrasil. Non-woven material is made from polypropylene; it is combined with other covering agents, since it cannot protect perennials from temperatures below -7 degrees. Lutrasil is highly breathable, perfectly transmits light, and prevents damage caused by insects and birds.
Straw. It is used to cover gardens with winter plantings and is used to protect perennial flowers. During rains, the straw should be protected with polyethylene. Dry grass holds snow well, but mice love to nest in it and cause damage to plants. In addition, flowers under the straw sometimes rot.

Air shelters

Insulating plants for the winter is necessary in order to prevent damage caused by sudden temperature changes. Air cushions save you from such a misfortune. To create them, lutrasil or film is used. A slatted tripod is installed around perennial flowers, and a cover made of non-woven material is put on top. The disadvantage of covering with lutrasil/film is the risk of moisture or overheating of plants during a snowless winter. Then the flowers wake up ahead of time and soon die from low temperatures.

To avoid the death of crops, gardeners build a “stool” type shelter with transparent walls through which light penetrates well, and a dark top that protects from overheating. This option is ideal for rhododendrons and coniferous varieties. To form insulation, pegs are inserted into the ground around the bush, on top of which a plywood board is placed. The structure is covered with film, burying the edges in the ground, while the shoots should not come into contact with the shelter.

Air-dry shelters

In addition to air, a layer is used as insulation sawdust, dry leaves, hay. Support blocks are installed around the flowers, and a boardwalk is made on top, which is covered with soil mixed with dry material. The whole thing is covered with plastic film. Plants do not penetrate into such shelter for the winter. Sun rays, however, the temperature always remains at the same level, optimal for perennial crops. Air-dry insulation is suitable for plants that cannot easily tolerate frost - yuccas, deciduous rhododendrons, gingos, etc.