How to install metal tiles on the roof. The roof won't go away! High-quality installation of metal tiles with your own hands
The popularity of metal tiles in roofing is explained by its availability and relatively simple installation technology. Metal roofing has excellent performance characteristics and is suitable for roofs of any configuration. Compliance with all requirements when laying such a coating guarantees its long service life. Correct device metal roofing will provide reliable protection under-roof space and living quarters from precipitation. Almost all manufacturers of metal tiles and roofing accessories provide buyers of their products with detailed manuals and technical instructions for the correct installation of metal tile roofing. The basic principles of installation work are identical, however, there are separate recommendations for specific products. When considering the issue of installing a roof made of metal tiles, you need to decide what the principle of its insulation will be, whether the roof will be cold or warm.
The construction of a metal roof in some aspects depends on the principle of its insulation. There are two main types of roofing – cold and warm. In the first case, we are talking about insulating only the interior of the attic or non-residential floor, despite the fact that outer part Metal tile roofs are not equipped with thermal insulation. In this case, the design of the slopes provides natural ventilation, which prevents the formation of condensation from temperature differences. A warm roof, unlike a cold one, requires the formation of a multi-layer thermal insulation layer. Design warm roof allows you to equip an attic residential floor, since its thermal insulation qualities will be much higher cold roof. The so-called pie itself warm roof metal tiles must be formed from a vapor barrier layer, a thermal insulation material that is placed between the roof joists, and a waterproofing membrane that serves as an obstacle to condensation from the back side of the metal tiles getting onto the thermal insulation. Vapor barrier film at the same time serves as protection against fumes from inside premises. 
Lathing
One of the most critical stages of arranging a metal roof is the formation of the sheathing. The assembly diagram of this structure is essentially the formation of the frame of the future roof, and the performance qualities of the entire roof depend on its correct equipment and installation.
The installation of a roof for metal tiles can be divided into the following successive stages: - erection of rafters;
- waterproofing film flooring;
- arrangement of counter-lattice;
- sheathing.
- covering with metal tiles.
The sheathing itself is mounted directly on top of the counter-lattice. For its construction, wooden blocks of 5×5 cm or 3.2×10 cm are used. They must be treated with wood antiseptics to protect against rotting, fungus or mold. Required condition is to strengthen the sheathing in the area where the ridge is located. It is ensured by connecting the last two bars. 
The distance between individual sheathing boards, or the so-called pitch, is determined depending on the selected type of metal tile. The instructions for a particular roofing profile contain detailed information about this indicator, as well as the size of the step in the eaves of the roof slope. Thus, for Cascade metal tiles, it is necessary to ensure a sheathing pitch between the first and second bars of 250 mm, between the second and third - 350 mm, and for subsequent ones - 300 mm. When installing Monterrey-type metal tiles, the step between the first and second lathing should be 300 mm, and between subsequent ones 350 mm. Metal tiles of the Elite type provide for a sheathing pitch of 350 mm between the first and second rows and 400 mm between subsequent ones. 
It is also worth paying attention to the fastening of the counter-lattice elements to the rafters. In this case, experts recommend laying a tape made of foamed polyurethane or polyethylene between the vertical bars of the counter-lattice and the rafters. Such a gasket is necessary to absorb possible slight deformation of the rafters due to drying out of the wood and subsequent damage to the structure of the counter-lattice and the integrity of the waterproofing layer. All components of the sheathing are fixed with nails. Experts, taking into account practice and personal experience, recommend using galvanized nails. Fastening the sheets of metal tiles begins from the lower right corner of the slope. The first sheet is carefully aligned in all directions and fixed to the sheathing with only one screw in the upper part. Next, another sheet is laid parallel to the fixed one. Both panels are fastened together with self-tapping screws. After this, the sheets are once again carefully aligned along the cornice and finally fixed to the sheathing using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets. Further laying is carried out by overlapping part of the new sheet onto the already fixed one. Also, many craftsmen stack sheets from left to right, slipping the next sheet into the lock of the previous one. This way you can achieve more precise joining of sheets in locks.
Endovy
One of the important elements when installing a metal roof is the valley. It represents the internal joint of the roof surfaces in contact with each other. The base for the valley must be formed from a solid surface. For this, wide boards are used or several standard sheathing bars are combined. The instructions provide for the installation of both lower and upper ends. The lower elements are fixed directly to the surface of the sheathing using self-tapping screws. The lower valley is made of durable galvanized steel sheet. Roofing technology using a lower valley involves draining water that penetrates under roof covering at the junction of the slopes. The design of this type of valley is an equilateral element with an internal angle of 135 degrees, the edges of which are curved.
The upper valley for a metal tile roof has more of a decorative value in order to hide the joint of the sheets with the lower valley. As the technology for arranging a metal tile roof provides, the upper valley is installed on last stages works End strips
Another important element of a metal roof is the end strip. This part is designed to protect the edge of the metal tile sheet from precipitation under its surface, as well as the accumulation of dust, leaves or other debris between the end board and the roof surface. In addition, the end strip protects the structure from wind loads and gives the roof an aesthetic appearance. appearance. The end strips must be fixed directly to the end board, and its edge must be in close contact with the metal tile sheet. The end strips need to be fixed in increments of 50–60 cm, and the overlap between such elements should be at least 5 cm. Based on the name of this element, it is easy to guess its purpose and location in the metal roofing structure. Installation of the eaves strip completes the arrangement of the roof frame. It should be attached after fixing the frontal (cornice) board to the frame. 
The instructions for carrying out work on arranging a roof made of metal tiles stipulate the need to overlap the lower edge of the waterproofing onto the eaves strip, which will protect against water penetration into the supporting structure. Ridge strips
Metal roofing at the upper joints of the slopes requires the presence of protective parts that provide natural ventilation of the under-roof space and hide the distance between the sheet material, providing reliable protection against water ingress. Such an element is ridge strips. Skates can be either flat or rounded. The technology for their installation involves fastening using roofing screws with rubber seals, and it is recommended to place a ridge seal under the bar itself. This detail prevents precipitation, debris or insects from entering under the roof surface.
Snow guards and other safety elements
The roofing structure made of metal tiles requires additional accessories to ensure its safe operation and maintenance. So, to prevent uncontrolled snow falling from the roof and possible injury to people, snow retainers are installed (some manufacturers label such elements as snow catchers). The installation diagram may provide for the arrangement of these elements in one line at a certain distance, as well as in a checkerboard pattern. These elements need to be fastened after the second or third wave of metal tiles from the eaves strip. Snow guards have two most common designs - in the form of slats of various formats or interconnected tubes. 
As you know, movement on the surface of a metal tile can cause its deformation. Accessories such as catwalks and roof railings will ensure the safety of roofing sheets and the safety of movement on them. The installation scheme for such roofing elements should provide for the presence of a separate continuous sheathing. It is also possible to install special ladders, with which you can climb slopes with too steep a slope. The installation instructions for these elements provide for the mandatory sealing of the places of attachment to the surface of the metal tile roof. In this case, the staircase can consist of two conjugate structures - wall and roof. These accessories also include brackets, seals, supports, handrails and wall flanges.
Junction strips
An important stage in the installation of a metal tile roof is the arrangement of junctions sheet material with structural elements of the building that are located on the roof. These include roof windows, chimneys, and ventilation outlets. And if in the case of roof windows it is enough to use the parts that come with the window, then the chimney outlet must be equipped with special strips. The correct technology for equipping such units prevents precipitation from getting between the chimney and the surrounding sheets of metal tiles. As in the case of installing valleys, abutment strips can also be used in two types - external and internal. The so-called internal apron completely covers the perimeter of the chimney and is fixed with the location of the upper curved edge into a pre-equipped groove in the chimney masonry. After this, the internal connection is equipped with water drainage under the sheets of metal tiles. After laying the sheet roofing material, you need to install the external abutment strips. According to the internal principle, the edges of these strips are also placed in a pre-prepared groove in the chimney.
Special accessories are installed on top of the ventilation outlets passing through the roof to prevent water or leaves from entering the channels. 
To install the described parts, you need to make a hole in the roof and secure them with self-tapping screws, not forgetting about the sealing gasket that comes with the kit. Sewer outlets and mounting points for television antennas are installed using a similar procedure. Metal tiles are the most popular roofing material, successfully combining not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. Installation of metal roofing requires strict adherence to work technology.
When the metal tile roof installation is complete, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat cut areas and scratches with spray paint.
From workwear you will need:
- gloves;
- protective glasses;
- shoes with soft soles.
The tools you need to prepare are:
- screwdriver;
- construction stapler;
- hammer;
- tape measure with rag tape;
- jigsaw;
- a hacksaw with fine teeth;
- metal scissors, manual or electric nibblers;
- hand-held circular saw with carbide cutting elements.
Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is prohibited to use a grinder or any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!
Otherwise, you not only reduce the performance properties of the roof, but also automatically lose the warranty of the metal tile manufacturer.
Taking measurements and calculating materials
From metal tiles
A metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50 mm. The area of the waves without taking into account the upper and lower cuts is usable area leaf. To calculate the number of horizontal rows of sheets required, it is necessary to divide the longest length of the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the useful width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets per row can be calculated by dividing the total length of sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. The total length of the sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang of 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, and inclined ridges, the length should completely cover all slopes.
When choosing the length of the sheet, keep in mind that at short lengths the coefficient of expansion of the metal is less, and accordingly, the tension of the metal and the likelihood of the screws breaking off, the holes becoming loose and the metal being destroyed in these places are less. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.
To minimize waste, before purchasing metal tiles, make a drawing of the roof, arrange the sheets according to the resulting diagram, taking into account the joints so that the waves are single canvas over the entire roof area.
When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.
When calculating the amount of insulation, the total roof area is multiplied by 0.2 m (recommended insulation thickness).
When calculating additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).
The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1m2 of metal tiles/1 linear meter of additional elements.
All calculations are rounded up.
Rules for the construction of a rafter system
Scheme of a hanging rafter system for a gable roof.
When planning rafter system take into account the characteristics of the roof shape, wind and snow loads. For a metal roof, experts recommend a distance between rafters of 600-900mm. Wood species with a moisture content of no more than 18-22% are suitable as materials for rafters. Everything in advance wooden elements The rafter structure, including the sheathing and additional reinforcing strips, must be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.
If it is planned to insulate the roof, to create additional inter-rafter ventilation, holes with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm are drilled in the upper side part of the rafters in increments of 30 cm.
An old rafter structure can also form the basis for a metal roof.
Before erecting the rafter system (including if it will be done on an old roof), make sure that the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes along the diagonals, check the horizontality of the cornice, ridge, and kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.
By building regulations- 14°. In snowy winters and rainy climates, the recommended tilt angle is 20-30°.
Installation of cornice and front boards, filing of cornice
Typically, roof installation requires the presence of either a cornice or a fascia board.
Options for tile roofing units.
The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is attached to special grooves cut into the rafters to avoid increasing the height of the rafter structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves for them on the eaves board. The installation of long hooks is carried out before installing the metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of metal tiles is completed. They are attached to the front board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs reinforcing and protective functions.
To hem the cornice, a block is placed horizontally on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the front board. Then, between it and the front board, a sheathing is made in the form of transverse bars, onto which a lining material is then attached (corrugated sheeting, siding or soffits matching the color and material of the metal tile).
The basic rule when filing the cornice is to ensure free flow of air into the under-roof space due to ventilation gaps. Recommended ratio total areas ventilation gaps and roofing is 1/100, the distribution of gaps along the roof is carried out in proportion to the areas of its individual elements.
Ventilation gaps are provided either between the sheathing panels (with the exception of soffits that have perforations), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the outer sheathing panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grid with small cells.
When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows.
The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while being vapor permeable. It is prohibited to use bitumen-based waterproofing material when installing a metal tile roof!
If it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated seal of the roof ridge due to ventilation gaps between the metal tiles and waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and insulation (double-circuit ventilation).
The waterproofing film is rolled out, without turning over, from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Overlapping areas must be insulated with a special adhesive tape. Please ensure that the overlaps occur on the wooden elements of the rafter structure and sheathing.
To prevent tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size due to the cold and the “play” of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the rafter legs. If you are using anti-condensation or classic type, double-circuit ventilation is required with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.
The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line and cover the end boards at the ends. Overlapping of roof elements such as stoves and ventilation pipes, must be at least 50mm with an additional layer laid around.
Installation of sheathing, installation of the lower valley
For a roof with an inter-rafter pitch of 900mm, boards with a section of 30x100mm are suitable for lathing, and with a pitch of 600mm - with a section of 25x100mm. If the distance between the rafters increases when installing the sheathing, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50x100mm or 50x150mm. The cross-sectional height of the lowest (initial) lathing plank should be greater than the height of the remaining planks by the height of the sheet wave, since the top of the metal tile step rests on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the cornice. The second lathing is attached with a pitch of 280mm, and all subsequent ones with a pitch of 350mm.
The place where the ridge strip is attached must be reinforced with two additional strips with a pitch of 50mm. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15mm greater than the thickness of the other sheathing boards to create a ventilation gap.
A continuous sheathing is made around the protruding roof elements. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the sheathing should also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the sheathing. Waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should extend onto the cornice board.
Installation of metal tile sheets
Installation diagram of metal tile sheets.
Lifting sheets of metal tiles onto the roof is carried out using ropes along two guide beams fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on metal tiles is allowed only in places where the wave deflects and only along the contour of the sheathing.
Each sheet of metal tile has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually they start laying from the side where the sheet does not need to be cut. Sheets can be mounted from left to right, or vice versa, overlapping in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.
Basic rules for laying metal tiles
- Docking “along the waves” to protect the roof from side winds. The screws at the joining point are screwed into the crest of the joining wave just below the stamping line. First of all, the longitudinal joints are tightened.
- Docking “in rows” with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
- Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the eaves line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the sheathing with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly placed on the slope should you screw in the remaining screws and finally secure the joined row.
Use roofing screws with EPDM gasket and a protective layer to match the roof standard sizes 4.8x28mm. Screwing is carried out in places where the sheet adheres to the sheathing into the base of the wave perpendicular to the sheathing until the gasket is slightly compressed; steel shavings are removed with a brush with soft bristles.
The sheets are attached to the initial lathing strip above the step through a wave, and to subsequent battens - through a longitudinal wave into every second transverse wave as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile at the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.
The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.
Installation of the end strip, upper valley and abutment strips
The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is covered with an end strip, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a pitch of 350 mm and an overlap of 100 mm.
The end strip is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turns out that the bottom ridge falls on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet upward.
Carrying out installation upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in in such a way as to prevent them from passing through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise, the waterproofing layer will be damaged. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (junction strips) and the metal tile.
Installation of ridge strip and snow guard
The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50 mm for unhindered evaporation of moisture. In spot places ventilation holes The seal must be installed. The ridge strip should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end onto the end strips with an edge protrusion of 20-30 mm by attaching it to the upper ridge and the sheathing through the wave. To prevent snow from blowing under the ridge, an aeroroller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.
To prevent an avalanche of snow from the roof, it is necessary. Even at the stage of installing the sheathing, provide supports in the intended places of fastening of this element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. carried out parallel to the cornice with a metal tile sheet fastened under the second transverse step.
Metal roofing also needs to be grounded to ensure the safety of the entire structure.
When the metal tiles are finished, remove any construction debris with a soft brush and treat any cuts or scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of roof operation, check the condition of the screws and, if necessary, tighten any loose ones.
Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bitumen shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent specifications do it excellent options for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.
A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a home. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:
- light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;
It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.
- simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
- a large assortment color solutions;
- the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
- the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
- the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.
There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of increased noise levels on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.
Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples
Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.
Viewing photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from best method in this case, since during the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:
- different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
- special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
- elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
- internal and external valleys;
- other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, metal tile eaves, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.
Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.
In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied on top of the sheet.
So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on back side metal tile sheet:
- presence of polymers;
- how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
- production date and warranty period for the use of the material;
- manufacturer's name;
- sheet thickness.
During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.
Important! If we are talking about material purchased from a large manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.
Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work
Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much it costs professional installation metal tiles. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.
The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.
Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations
The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.
Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.
There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.
Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.
In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.
When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow you to correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.
In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.
Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which metal tiles can be installed.
Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands
In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- yardstick;
- hammer;
- marker;
- mounting tape.
It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection face and hands (glasses, gloves).
As for Supplies that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, then this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. Of course, you will also need fasteners - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.
Helpful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, you should use decorative overlays.
How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work
The low weight of metal tiles allows for minimal amount preparatory work, before proceeding with installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.
The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the process of attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor One thing that should be taken into account during the installation of the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.
Related article:
Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof
When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, first lay on the rafters vapor barrier material, and then a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, it is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.
Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.
This “pie” is the most effective roof thermal insulation system that metal tile installation technology allows. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.
Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules
Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:
- There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
- There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw that passes through all the sheets.
- The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
- In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.
Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements
Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:
- the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
- for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
- It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
- for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
- if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;
- The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
- It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.
Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether installation is possible specific model ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need to completely replace the entire roofing covering.
It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.
Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles
Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected - valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.
There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.
As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.
Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.
In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:
- installation must be done from the bottom up;
- a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
- the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
- fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.
Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, consider the case when installing dormer window. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.
How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope
If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.
Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.
In order to install the ridge assemblies, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the angle of the “ridge”. If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.
The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. It's not too much difficult task, if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. Bright colors are used as auxiliary material. polyurethane foam, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.
Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"
A separate type of metal tile, undoubtedly worthy of attention– Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:
- extremely high level of material resistance to both ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
- due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout its entire service life;
- the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
- multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
- due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
- using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a large step between fasteners. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.
This material has only two disadvantages - a large number of residues after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.
As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:
- For various models of this material, it is necessary to prepare various lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
- in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
- on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
- the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
- Before installing the material must be removed protective covering, since this may not be possible in the future.
It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.
Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.
How to properly care for a metal roof covering
Having studied step by step instructions installation of metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.
The top layer of metal tiles is a polymer material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:
- remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
- If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. Use aggressive chemicals strictly prohibited, as they destroy protective layer and render the material unusable;
- cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
- It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.
Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.
Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands
Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:
- installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
- It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
- Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
- when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
- You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.
Taking these simple rules into account, as well as acting in accordance with the technology for laying metal tiles, you can make a beautiful and reliable roof yourself.
Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties
A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.
Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.
It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:
Q = G×s
In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.
In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.
Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules
As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.
It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.
The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.
Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly
Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.
The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.
Corner snow retainers for metal tiles
Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget-friendly options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.
For fixation corner snow guards On the roof of a metal tile roof, self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.
These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.
Installation of a roof window in metal tiles
It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.
First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter pitch is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.
The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are mounted. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.
Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay attention Special attention the issue of installing the ridge of metal tiles, if it is planned dormer window. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.
Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners
For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.
Metal tiles are a reliable and durable roofing covering. The high corrosion resistance of this material is ensured through the use of high-quality raw materials (galvanized steel from leading global manufacturers) and special polymer coatings. You can buy from the Stroymet company. We also have in stock roofing materials others famous manufacturers from Russia and Finland.
Additional elements of Grand Line metal tiles
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Fixes sheets of metal tiles at the ends roof slopes, preventing the fasteners from loosening. Protects the structure from wind and precipitation. |
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Upper valley strip Decorative element, covering the joint between the slopes on internal corners roofs. |
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Bottom valley plank Provides removal of precipitation at the joints of adjacent slopes. |
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Prevents uncontrolled snow removal from roof slopes. Protects against additional snow load gutters, as well as the area adjacent to the building. |
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Closes the joint of adjacent roof slopes, preventing precipitation from entering the under-roof space. |
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Mounted in the end part of the ridge. |
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Protects the frontal board and other wooden elements of the rafter system located in the lower part of the eaves overhangs from the negative effects of moisture. |
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Junction strip Installed at the joints of roof slopes with vertical structures(walls, chimneys). |
Basic requirements when working with metal tiles
Shipping
To avoid damage, the sheets must be firmly fixed in the car body. At the same time, they must fit completely in the body along the length (otherwise, kinks are possible on the overhang line). Optimal driving mode vehicle: speed no higher than 80 km/h, without sudden acceleration or braking.
Loading and unloading operations
They can be done manually or using special equipment (forklifts, cranes with soft slings). Packages are unloaded onto a flat, clean, dry surface. The number of personnel during manual unloading depends on the length of the sheets (1 person per 2 linear meters, but not less than 2 people per 1 sheet). Carrying is carried out in a vertical position. It is prohibited to drag sheets on the ground or other surfaces.
Sheets of metal tiles are stacked using wooden bars (laid at the base of the stacks) and slats (laid between the sheets). If storage is carried out in an open area, it is necessary to ensure a slight slope of the sheets along the length to allow water to drain. It is prohibited to carry out any activities in the immediate vicinity of the storage area. welding work, as well as other operations that can damage the surface of the metal tile.
Safety precautions
To avoid cuts from the sharp edges of metal tiles, personnel should wear protective gloves. In the process of lifting sheets onto the roof and installing them, it is necessary to use safety equipment. It is prohibited to carry out work at height in difficult weather conditions (strong wind, rain, hail, snowfall).
Fasteners
To fix sheets of metal tiles, self-tapping screws are used. of stainless steel with polymer gasket. Approximate consumption – 6-7 screws per 1 sq. m.
Tools for installing Grand Line metal tiles
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Note! When cutting metal tiles, do not use angle grinders with abrasive wheels. Violation of this requirement can lead to intense corrosion of products (due to damage to the zinc layer and polymer coating).
Roofing pie structure
Modern roofs consist of several layers that perform various functions. The reliability and durability of the roof is ensured through the use of quality materials and proper installation of Grand Line metal tiles. If even one element is installed incorrectly, this will lead to a sharp reduction in the service life of the entire structure. According to the experience of Stroymet specialists, violation of installation requirements entails the accumulation of moisture in the insulation (because of this, it significantly deteriorates performance characteristics), as well as destruction of wooden and metal parts (due to rotting and corrosion).
- Metal tiles.
- Lathing.
- Waterproofing.
- Rafter leg.
- Counter-lattice.
- Vapor barrier membrane.
- The first sheathing board.
- Gutter bracket.
- Frontal board.
- Dropper.
- Cornice strip.
- Ventilation perforated tape.
Installation of thermal insulation
It is laid between the elements of the rafter system. To make it hold better, it needs to be cut with a small margin in width (1-1.5 cm). Installation must be organized in such a way as to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture entering the thermal insulation layer.
Installation of vapor-waterproofing films and membranes
Insulating materials are laid on both sides of the rafter structure: on the outside - waterproofing, on the inside - vapor barrier. Laying is done horizontally, from bottom to top, with an overlap of 15-20 cm.
Standard waterproofing is installed with 2 ventilation gaps of 3-5 cm:
- between the film and the heat-insulating layer;
- between the film and the roofing covering.
The superdiffusion membrane is installed with 1 gap (between the membrane and the roofing). A second gap is not needed, since the performance characteristics of the membrane allow it to be laid directly on top of the thermal insulation layer.
When installing a vapor barrier, a gap is required between the film and internal lining. The overlap lines of adjacent film rows are sealed with sealing tape.
Installation of drainage system brackets
Brackets designed to fix the gutter are mounted in such a way as to ensure a slight slope of the structure towards the drainpipes. The vertical displacement parameters are determined by the formula: h = 0.005 x L (L is the distance between the outer hooks). The brackets are first numbered and marked taking into account the specified offset. Correct installation of long brackets is only possible before laying the roofing. The design of short brackets allows you to attach them to the frontal board at any stage of roofing work.
Installation of sheathing
The sheathing is usually made from wooden planks and bars. They must first be dried and treated with fire and bioprotective compounds.
A drip tray is installed at the bottom of the eaves overhang, designed to drain water and condensate into the gutter.
The first sheathing board should be thicker than the rest (to standard thickness the wave height of the metal tile is added). The recommended distance between the bottom edge of the first board and the middle of the second is 30 cm, from the center to the center of the remaining elements of the sheathing is 35 cm.
A continuous sheathing is installed next to the ridge, in the valley area, in places where snow retainers are installed, around the perimeter of chimneys.
Installation of curtain rods
The cornice strip protects the front board from moisture and dirt. Using self-tapping screws, a ventilation tape is attached to the ends of the counter slats and the first board of the sheathing.
Installation of lower valley strips
The joints of adjacent slopes experience increased operational loads. Therefore, a continuous sheathing is installed in the valley area and a special seal is installed. The valley strips are mounted from bottom to top (starting from the eaves strip) with an overlap of 30 cm.
Installation of a bypass around the perimeter of the chimney
The waterproofing film is placed on the surface of the pipe (an overlap of at least 5 cm) and secured with self-adhesive tape. Then, abutment strips are installed around the perimeter, which are inserted with the upper side into the grooves made in the outer wall of the pipe (recommended depth - 1.5 cm). After this, drainage is done (to the nearest valley strip or to the eaves overhang).
Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, a lifting structure is installed from wooden boards and bars, on which the sheets are fixed. After this, the metal tile along with the structure is carefully lifted onto the roof. During the lifting process, personnel must use safety equipment.
Installation of metal tiles Grand Line
To avoid damage to the sheets, work must be carried out in shoes with soft soles (sports or special), and you can only step into the deflection of the wave.
Laying is done from bottom to top. The lower edge of the sheets is carried 5 cm beyond the cornice and carefully aligned along the entire length of the slope.
Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to install a lightning rod.
- The sheets are attached to the deflections of the waves in places where they fit tightly to the sheathing boards.
- The metal tiles are attached to the first board of the sheathing through a wave, above the step.
- Sheets are attached to other boards under the steps (as close to them as possible).
- Along the edges of the slopes (at the gables), each step is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Through exits to the roof
To ensure the tightness of through exits, Stroymet specialists recommend using self-adhesive tape and silicone sealant.
Dormer windows
Installation is carried out in the following order:
- the bottom plank of the valley (placed below the pediment line of the dormer window structure);
- roofing;
- upper valley strip (it is recommended to install a special seal before installation).
Installation of end strips
The planks are mounted from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm (the recommended pitch between screws is 30-35 cm).
Installation of the upper valley strip
This is carried out after laying the universal seal. Allows you to hide possible unevenness of cut sheets at the junction of adjacent slopes.
Installation of junction strips
In places where metal tiles adjoin vertical elements To ensure effective waterproofing, a polymer seal must be installed. The planks are fixed with roofing screws.
Ridge installation
The ridge strip is fixed through the wave with special ridge screws (they are longer than standard ones). A self-adhesive ventilation tape is pre-installed over the entire ridge. Plugs are installed at the ends of the ridge.
Installation of roof safety elements
In areas where snow guards, roof ladders, walkways, and fences will be installed, continuous sheathing must be installed.
Snow guards are installed at the bottom of the slope (but above the eaves overhang, otherwise they may not cope with the snow load).
The fasteners must fit not only into the sheathing, but also into the elements of the rafter system.
Eaves overhang trim
Plastic or corrugated sheets can be used as cladding materials.
In this case, it is necessary to ensure a good level of ventilation of the under-roof space (Vilpe valves are usually used for this).
According to Stroymet specialists, the optimal solution for lining eaves overhangs is vinyl soffits. Their installation is carried out using wooden blocks and additional elements (J-profile and J-chamfer). Perforated soffits help maintain comfortable air circulation in the under-roof space.
Installation options for brackets for drainage systems
The drip tray is used to remove condensate from the waterproofing film (connected to it with double-sided tape).
Ventilation tape - prevents clogging of the under-roof space and improves air exchange. Fixed with self-tapping screws.
Post-installation care
Upon completion of the installation of Grand Line metal tiles, all debris (metal scraps, shavings, remnants of consumables, etc.) must be removed from the roof surface. If micro-scratches are found on the sheets of Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to apply special paint to them. This will not only make the damage invisible, but will also avoid corrosion.
The procedure for installing drains
- The gutter is marked for the installation of funnels.
- Holes of the required size are cut and funnels are installed.
- Plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter (rivets and silicone sealant can be used for additional waterproofing).
- The gutters are installed on brackets and connected to each other using special connectors.
- Brackets intended for fixing drainpipes are installed on the façade of the building in 1 m increments (at least 2 brackets per pipe).
- The drainage riser is being installed (pipes, elbows, connecting pipes). The drain elbow should be located 20 cm from the ground.
- Drainpipe connects to the funnel, then the structure is adjusted and all the brackets and clamps of the riser are fixed.
Coastal zone (less than 3 km from the seashore)
The terms of the company guarantee for Grand Line metal tiles can be found upon purchase at Stroymet sales offices ( detailed information contained in the warranty cards).