How to insulate an attic roof from the inside: stages of work and materials. How to properly insulate an attic roof and how to insulate it Insulating an attic roof in a country house

Low-rise buildings with a residential attic are becoming more common. First of all, this is explained by material benefits. After all, it is cheaper to build a house with a residential attic than with a full second floor, and the living area is equivalent. In other cases, house owners decide to turn non-residential attic space into rooms intended for year-round residence. In the article we will consider what material and what technology can be used to insulate an attic roof.

The importance of insulating the attic roof

• The technology for insulating an attic roof has its own nuances, since the room is located directly under the roofing material, most often made of metal, which means it gets very hot in the sun. Therefore, a layer of insulation should not only retain heat in winter, but also save from the summer heat.

Attic insulation gable roof with attic photo

• At its core, the insulation “pie” is no different from working on an attic roof. But higher demands are placed on it, since later the slope from the inside is covered with plasterboard and lined with finishing material. This means carrying out any renovation work it will be difficult.
• It will be especially difficult to do everything correctly without making mistakes when it is necessary to insulate the attic sloping roof. Due to the large number of joints, there is a high probability of the formation of cold bridges or water leaks during the operation of the house.

Regardless of the type of insulation used, the pie mansard roof as follows:

• directly roofing material;
• sheathing;
• layer of waterproofing (vapor barrier);
• insulation between rafters;
• vapor barrier with taped seams;
• finishing material.

When choosing a material for insulating an attic roof from the inside, attention is paid to its thermal conductivity. The higher they are, the more thin layer will be needed. In short, the best performance is for expanded polystyrene, basalt wool, and ecowool.

• As is known from the laws of physics, warm air rises, which means that the greatest heat loss occurs through the attic roof. If the winters in the region are snowy and the roof is covered with snow, then it plays the role of an additional heat insulator and retains the heat that has leaked through the “pie” of the attic slope. But due to the heavy load, the roof is always designed in such a way that the snow cover does not linger on it and comes off on its own. But at the same time, an ice crust should not form; it serves as an indicator that the thermal insulation was carried out incorrectly and the roofing material heats up so much that it melts the snow.
• The main difference regular roof a full second floor from the attic, serves as the size of the space for ventilation, which is necessary between the roof and the living space. So, if there is an unheated attic, then ventilation there occurs naturally through dormer windows or loose cladding of the gables. In the roof of a residential attic, a very limited space is left for a ventilation gap, most often not exceeding 15 cm.

• Ventilation is very important, as it eliminates the formation of excessive moisture under the roof, thereby leaving the entire structure dry and extending its service life. In addition, this air gap, in the cold season, prevents heating of the roofing, which avoids the formation of an ice crust. And in hot weather, on the contrary, it removes part of the heated air, eliminating overheating of the attic living space.

Insulating the attic roof video

Styrofoam

• When choosing polystyrene foam for insulating an attic roof, evaluate the size of its sheets, thickness and density. If necessary, the production can order cutting of material according to custom sizes. Most often, they don’t even ask for additional payment for this.
• But if you choose from what is presented in the hardware store, then polystyrene foam is produced standard dimensions: 2x1m, 1x1m, 0.5x1m. If the roof is insulated with a rafter pitch of 60 cm, then you will have to buy 1x1 m slabs and cut them, which results in a lot of scraps.
• The density of the foam varies from 15 to 35 (these are the brands that are commercially available). To insulate the roof, you need to choose 35; the material with lower characteristics has a looser structure and lower heat-saving qualities.

• The thickness also varies, from 20 to 200 mm. For an attic roof, it is most convenient to buy sheets 50 cm thick and lay them in a checkerboard pattern in three layers.

Tip: the density of polystyrene foam indicates a parameter such as the size of the air cavities between the foam granules. But in order to correctly calculate it and efficiently insulate the attic roof with polystyrene foam, you need to know that grade 25 material actually has a density of 20 kg/m3, and foam boards marked 15 have a density of 10 kg/m3. For internal insulation slabs with a lower density are suitable, but for external work you need stronger and more rigid ones, with a value of at least 25 kg/m3.

Material quality

• It is recommended to buy foam plastic for attic roof insulation only in specialized stores or construction markets. If the quality of the product is in doubt, or its density does not look as stated, you should ask for a quality certificate. If the polystyrene foam is too loose, during its adjustment to the dimensions of the sheathing, the edges will break and crumble. This means that it will no longer be possible to carry out high-quality thermal insulation of the under-roof room.
• You can determine the quality at first glance by the inner surface or by the cut. High-quality products should be a snow-white, uniform color with granules of uniform size. To identify an unscrupulous manufacturer, it is enough to run your hand over the material; if at this moment individual granules begin to move away from it and fly apart, then it is not worth buying it.
• It’s good if the foam is stored in a warehouse protected from rain and sun, this guarantees the safety of all its characteristics.

Insulating the attic roof with foam plastic

• Insulating an attic always starts from the roof. If this room is already residential, then all furniture and items that will interfere with the work are removed from it. In addition, when cutting foam plastic, a lot of debris is generated, which is then very difficult to clean. Therefore, it is advisable to temporarily cover the ceiling and walls with film and not create drafts, which will contribute to the spread of polystyrene foam granules.

• Next, check the condition of the rafters. If they are made of wood, then additional treatment is carried out with antiseptic compounds.

Advice: sometimes, when insulating the roof in country houses, the ceiling is not dismantled down to the rafters, but a new sheathing for the insulation is made directly on top of the existing one ceiling covering. This will save time and make the job easier, but the living space will be reduced by at least 12 cm and there will be no way to check wear rafter system.

• Next, attach the vapor barrier film on the right side inside (the manufacturer always indicates on the roll label which side is the front side and which side is the inside). It must be pulled very tightly so that it fits all the rafters without gaps and adheres to the sheathing of the roofing material without sagging. This can be done conveniently using construction stapler. The width of the roll on average does not exceed 1 m, so joints are formed along the length. They should be made with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with tape. Manufacturers often recommend using reinforced tape, but you can also use cheaper paper-based tape.
• Now it’s time to insert the foam. This is a lightweight but tough material that can be easily cut with a regular knife (but quickly dulls the blades, so you need to have several spare ones in stock). The work can be done by one person. The most important thing is to correctly and accurately fit each slab in size so that there are no gaps. The fewer of them there are, the more effective the thermal insulation will be, and therefore the smaller the heat loss. But sometimes the rafters can have a curved shape, and then cracks inevitably form. They will have to be foamed polyurethane foam. If a second layer is to be laid in the future, then you need to wait until it dries, cut off the excess and only then continue work.

• Most often, the foam fits rigidly between the rafters and does not require additional fixation. But sometimes there are cases when it will need to be planted with special glue.
• A vapor barrier film for interior work is stretched on top (manufacturers separate them with different letter designations; store salespeople will certainly tell you about this). It is also tightly stretched over the insulation and attached to the rafters first with a stapler. When the desired tension is achieved, a wooden strip is attached to the top, directly along the entire length of the rafter, using self-tapping screws or a guide metallic profile. This not only allows you to additionally secure the film, but will also become a frame for future cladding. With this method, the vapor barrier must be stretched immediately over the entire height of the attic roof.
• Thus, the thickness of the attic roof insulation corresponds to the thickness of the rafters and is 10-15 cm, depending on the purpose of the room and the weather conditions of the region. If the work was carried out using polystyrene foam in one layer, then many joints are formed between the sheets, which are called “cold bridges”. To avoid this, it is better to take thinner material and lay it with an overlap in the form of brickwork.

Mineral wool

If for insulation of the attic in country house foam plastic is often used, then for a house intended for year-round use, it is recommended to choose more environmentally friendly material. This is mineral wool. It differs in purpose, which depends on the density of the mats.

Attic roof insulation photo

Dimensions may vary, but the most popular standards are: width 60 cm, length 125 cm and thickness 5 cm. Therefore, when building houses, the project most often provides for a pitch of attic roof rafters of 60 cm.

There are several brands of mineral wool on sale; we will consider the most popular ones below.

• Mineral wool P-35. The number means density in kg/m3. This is a fairly loose material that is suitable for insulating the floor in the attic or for the upper straight part of the roof located under the roof canopy.
• Mineral wool P-50. This density is enough to insulate not only the floor, but also the walls, as well as the slopes of the attic roof. For middle zone In Russia it is enough to make 3 layers (15cm). This is one of the inexpensive types of this material, so consumers often choose it.
• Mineral wool PZh-175. It has not only high density, but also additional rigidity. This is especially important if insulation work is carried out from the inside. Such mats fit very tightly between the rafters or frame guides, which allows one person to carry out the work. But their cost is already significantly higher than the above analogues.
• Mineral wool PPZh-200. This type is chosen when the premises are exposed to special requirements on fire safety. Thanks to such density and rigidity, it is able to restrain the spread of fire for some time.

Despite the popularity of this thermal insulation material, it has a number of disadvantages:

• Although there is no feeling of discomfort when touching mineral wool, its small particles stick to the skin and cause severe itching, which cannot be washed off with water for some time. When insulating the attic, it is especially important to protect your eyes and nose from these particles, which crumble when laying the material on inclined and horizontal surfaces;

• mineral wool absorbs water, after which its characteristics sharply decrease. Therefore, it is important to make the right insulation “pie” using special vapor barrier sheets.

Tips for choosing mineral wool for attic insulation

• First of all, you need to rely on the manufacturer. The highest quality and proven products on the Russian construction market are represented by such European companies as “rockwool”, “ursa”, “paroc”, “isover”. If their price is too high and does not fit into the estimate, then a good domestic manufacturer produces mineral wool under the TechnoNIKOL brand.
• Mineral wool combines several types of materials. For example, glass wool and slag wool. But unlike mineral wool, they have lower noise insulation rates, are less environmentally friendly, and the first option is dangerous when working with it.
• The thermal insulation characteristics of the slab also depend on how its fibers are arranged. When positioned vertically, the material has higher noise and heat insulation properties. But when chaotic, the mat turns out to be very rigid, capable of withstanding serious mechanical stress. You can’t determine this on your own, but a store consultant is able to answer this question.

Insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands using mineral wool

• The attic is insulated with mineral wool both outside and inside. In the first case, this is preferable when building a new house, but when the work is carried out as a renovation, there is no choice left and insulation occurs from the inside.
• The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the width of the rafters, and as a rule, is 15-20 cm. This means that mineral wool is laid in 2-3 layers, which allows you to stagger the rows and cover the joints with subsequent sheets.
• As already written above, the heat-insulating material is selected with high density, which provides it required density and the necessary thermal conductivity indicators. If the rafters are mounted in increments of 60 cm, then the material fits comfortably and fits snugly between them. Otherwise it will have to be customized. When insulating with rigid slabs, first measure with a tape measure right size, then they are cut on the floor with a knife and, ready-made, they are inserted into place. When working with soft material it is simply inserted between the rafters and the excess folded edge is trimmed on site with a sharp utility knife.

Advice: all the scraps that remain from the material should not be thrown away; they may have to be used to insulate small gaps that form at the joint attic slope and walls.

• It is more convenient to carry out the work together and in special protective equipment, such as a respirator and mask. This is due to the fact that insulation is carried out above the head, and inevitably small particles of mineral wool will fall on the face, causing severe irritation and itching.

• First, lay all the layers in one strip of the frame from the rafters and immediately stretch the vapor barrier film. It allows you to tightly press and fix the insulation. TO wooden rafters such fabric is fastened using a construction stapler. It is recommended to measure its length in advance along the entire length of the wall.
• Often, when using expensive rigid slabs, the entire attic area is insulated and only then covered with a vapor barrier.

• After insulating the attic slope, they move on to thermal insulation of the walls. If it was previously cold, then first build a frame of boards 15-20 cm wide, which will ensure the installation of the necessary layer mineral wool. The guides are placed only vertically, with an indentation from the corner, to avoid a cold bridge. When insulating, it is recommended to lay one layer (the last one or outside the house) in such a way that it overlaps the wooden frame.
• The vapor barrier is also stretched very tightly over the top, overlapping and gluing all the seams.

An attic space can become a comfortable office, a children's playroom or a cozy bedroom if it is properly insulated and decorated. This process is not much different from thermal insulation of rooms in the house, but still has its own nuances. High-quality insulation It’s not difficult to make attics with your own hands, the main thing is to choose the right materials and follow the instructions.

Before insulating the attic, you need to prepare it: remove everything unnecessary, clean it from dust, and seal every single crack. Particular attention is paid to the window opening, sealing the joints along the perimeter of the glass unit. Small cracks are covered with putty, large cracks are filled with pieces of foam plastic, and then sealed with cement mortar.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Insulation must be complete, therefore both the floor and walls (if any) are also checked for gaps, unevenness, and other defects. The floor beams are covered with protective compounds, and the surface of the walls is primed. The waterproofing film should be located on the outside of the rafters; its installation is usually done during the installation of the roof. Sometimes they do without waterproofing at all: roofing good quality does not allow water to pass through and perfectly protects the rafter system from excess moisture.

Tools and materials for insulation

Thermal insulation of the attic can be done using the simplest tools:

• roulette;
• building level;
• hammer;
• drills;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam boards, and penoplex are used as insulation. For thermal insulation of the rafter system, it is better to choose slab materials that are more convenient to fasten between the beams. But on the attic floor you can lay both slabs and roll insulation. When choosing, you should take into account the vapor permeability of the material, its durability and strength.

Polystyrene foam is considered the cheapest and lightest insulation material; It is easy to cut, convenient to mount on both horizontal and vertical surfaces. It is not afraid of moisture, but at the same time it has low vapor permeability, which can cause dampness in the attic. In addition, polystyrene foam is damaged by mice and releases toxic substances when burned.

Expanded polystyrene is stronger than polystyrene foam, less flammable and toxic, and has higher vapor permeability. It is as easy to install as polystyrene foam and is available in slabs of different thicknesses.

Mineral wool is probably the most popular insulation material for residential premises. It is valued for its environmental friendliness, non-flammability, and high thermal insulation properties. In addition, mineral wool perfectly muffles sounds, which is especially important for good rest. When wet and severely deformed, this material loses its thermal insulation qualities, so during installation it should be handled carefully and protected from dampness.

Additionally, when insulating the attic you will need:

• wooden slats;
• self-tapping screws;
• construction stapler;
• waterproofing material;
• adhesive aluminum tape or tape.

Attic insulation process

If everything is ready, you can start working. The most labor-intensive stage is insulating the roof, since sloping surfaces are more difficult to work with. That is why they start with the roof, then insulate the walls and floor of the attic. And only after that they begin finishing. It is not recommended to finish part of the room before laying thermal insulation in adjacent areas, as this may compromise the tightness of the layers.

Stage 1. Insulation of the under-roof space

Insulation boards are cut so that their width is 3-4 cm greater than the distance between the rafter beams. Next, measure the thickness of the rafters, because the thermal insulation layer should not protrude beyond the edges of the floor beams. If the thickness of the rafters is less than the thickness of the insulation sheet, wooden slats are placed on top along the beams. If the rafters are much thicker than the slabs, the thermal insulation is laid in two layers.

The slabs are carefully inserted between the beams and aligned at the corners and joints. There should be no gaps or voids; the entire space is tightly filled with insulation.

If rolled material is used, nails are placed vertically on the beams in increments of 30 cm and a thick fishing line and cord are tied to the top nails. Having laid the edge of the insulation, they tighten it with fishing line, and continue this until the end of the run. When the entire under-roof space is covered with a thermal insulation layer, a vapor barrier can be installed.

Stage 2. Attaching the vapor barrier

Glassine, polyethylene, and sometimes roofing felt are used as vapor barriers, but the most practical option for the attic is foil-coated polypropylene film. This material reliably protects the surface from any evaporation from inside the room, from the penetration of moisture from the outside, and also increases the thermal insulation properties of the lower layer by reflecting infrared rays.

The foil film is attached with a stapler to the rafter beams with the shiny side facing toward the attic; The film is placed on the sections with an overlap of 10 cm, and then they are glued with aluminum tape or tape. On the sides, the vapor barrier should extend 5-10 cm onto the walls, and a small allowance should also be left along the floor line. It is not recommended to stretch the film too much or leave sagging areas: the material should be evenly distributed over the surface and move away by a maximum of 2 cm.

Stage 3. Wall insulation

Depending on the type of roof, the attic walls may differ in height and location. Usually the gables of the house act as walls, but sometimes the roof does not reach the floor and vertical walls up to 1 m high are left on the sides of the attic. Since the walls are already primed when preparing the room, insulation begins with waterproofing:

• V brickwork drill holes and attach them to dowels wooden blocks in increments of 40 cm;
• The waterproofing membrane is fixed to the slats with staples;
• Mineral wool slabs are inserted between the bars.

You can insulate the walls a little differently: the surface is leveled with cement plaster, primed, and then polystyrene foam boards are taken and glued to the walls.

A special reinforcing mesh is attached to the glue on top, and decorative plaster. If the finishing involves covering the attic with clapboard, siding or plasterboard, load-bearing slats must be present. The insulation layer is covered with foil film, Special attention paying attention to corner seams.

Stage 4. Floor insulation

The floor of the attic is also the ceiling of the house, and insulation from the attic side saves free space in living rooms. The floor can be insulated not only with slabs or roll materials, but also loose, for example, expanded clay. This method is suitable for houses with durable floors, since the expanded clay layer puts a fairly high load on the ceiling beams.

They start by laying a waterproofing film on the attic floor. The film is laid out on the surface, carefully distributed between the floor beams, and then fixed on the sides of the beams with a stapler. All overlaps are taped; Along the perimeter, the film should extend slightly onto the walls. Between the beams, polystyrene foam, mineral wool are tightly laid out, or a layer of expanded clay is poured. Thermal insulation should not rise above the ceilings, and voids should not be left in the corners. Now the insulation needs to be covered with a foil vapor barrier, the joints glued and boards, chipboard or plywood at least 2 cm thick on top.

Stage 5. Finishing

The edges of the film are cut with a sharp knife, and the joints are sealed with tape. Starting from the ceiling, wooden slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier film in increments of 30-40 cm, depending on the type of finish. The slats must be attached perpendicularly load-bearing beams, and the sheathing, accordingly, is perpendicular to the slats. In the corners between the roof and walls, 2 slats are placed side by side on each side so that the edges of the sheathing are tightly fixed to the surface. Along the perimeter of the window opening, slats are also placed for attaching the platbands.

At this point, the thermal insulation of the attic can be considered complete. If each stage was completed with all diligence, the room will remain warm even in the most severe frosts. And on hot days, a layer of insulation will keep the room cool, despite the proximity of a hot roof.

Video - Do-it-yourself attic insulation

In order to do everything efficiently and for a long time, you need to understand the basic principle of insulating any room. Firstly, we must take into account that the air in the room where people are is much more humid than that outside, especially in winter. This moisture will rise with the warm air and saturate the insulation layer. Similar to this process, moisture from the street (during rain, fog, when high humidity, from 85%) will impregnate the drier layers of insulation located under roofing covering. That is why the sequence of layers should be done strictly as described below.

1. First layer - roofing materials. It can be slate, metal tiles, euroroofing felt - it doesn’t matter, the choice is yours.
2. Waterproofing layer. Defence from external environment. The material is laid directly on the rafters under slate or other roofing. Nail it to each rafter with a control strip so that the material is not damaged by the wind, which will blow around there a little. Some builders use ordinary roofing felt, but its effectiveness is extremely questionable, since when the temperature changes, it can crack and quickly become unusable.
3. Insulation. This can be polystyrene foam, ordinary mineral wool, glass wool, paper. The main thing is that the thickness is at least 10 centimeters, so that even the most severe frosts cannot take heat from the room.
4. Vapor barrier. This is a protective film that prevents moisture from entering the room. insulation materials, and the heat escapes out. This layer is mandatory and without it it is impossible to insulate the room, since the effectiveness of such work will be less.
5. Finishing material. Next comes the lining, plastic, OSB board, plaster - in general, everything you want to attach. For convenience, a sheathing is stuffed to which it will be convenient to attach the finishing.

Let us now consider step by step how to properly insulate an attic from the inside and what needs to be done to prevent heat from escaping from the room to the street during the cold winter.

Step 1: Taking measurements.

You have rafters with a beam height of 12-15 centimeters, then waterproofing (roofing felt), followed by roofing material. That is, you only need to install thermal insulation and a vapor barrier. For this, 10 centimeters will be enough. We measure the distance between the sides of the rafters where we will lay the pieces of thermal insulation. It can be fiberboard, glass wool, but best of all is mineral wool with a density of 45 kg/m3. Measurements are taken in such a way that there is 2-3 centimeters more than the distance between the two bars, so that the cotton wool fits in very tightly and under pressure.

Step 2: Cutting material.

This must be done with a special sharp knife, which is intended for this matter. The main thing is to follow the cutting rules: you cannot smooth the edges of the cut bush, you only need to make a right angle. Some craftsmen try to “choose the middle” so that 2 bushes fit into the groove. But this is already superfluous - the joint can simply be sealed with a sealant, especially since you will not have “cotton wool-wool” joints with the correct measurements, only cotton wool-wood.

Step 3: Installation of material.

You will get a rectangular piece of mineral wool exactly along the cell between the rafters, 2-3 centimeters larger. In order for it to sit in its place, you will need to squeeze it a little and press it. You can better seat it on the sides using a sharp object, such as a screwdriver. Mineral wool slabs will allow you to insulate an attic with your own hands in a matter of minutes - working with them is very quick and easy, especially compared to other insulation materials.

Step 4: Fastening the insulation material.

This can be done in several ways. If you have a little extra financial resources, then it is better to choose control slats. Thin ones are packed across the rafters wooden planks, which will hold mineral wool. There is no need to stuff them very often - every 50 cm will be quite enough, especially since the sheet of cotton wool itself rarely disappears somewhere from its seat. The second method of fastening is even simpler and also does not require any costs. To do this, you only need a few dozen nails, maybe crooked ones and a skein of thread. Hammer one nail every 70-80 centimeters, then stretch a thread or wire between them everywhere, you get a kind of cobweb. It is not as strong as a lath, but it is more than enough to hold a sheet of mineral wool that may “move away” from its seat.

Step 5: Finishing.

We have figured out how to insulate an attic from the inside, now we are moving on to the final stage - finishing the wall. Most often, they take a sheet of OSB, stuff it from the inside onto the rafters, which creates a flat surface on which you can glue wallpaper or screw plastic or lining. Some masters simply “close out” the heat OSB sheet, press mineral wool with it, and then leave it without finishing. This is done if a sheet of plasterboard is installed to make an attic with even vertical walls, without such “slopes”. However, this is the right of every owner and only you can choose.

How to insulate a ceiling and what material to choose

After you have treated the walls of the room and increased their efficiency in terms of saving heat, you need to work on the ceiling, because a lot of heat can “escape” through it, and therefore your money. As a rule, the ceiling is made level, that is, a sheet of plasterboard is installed along the puffs, approximately at a height of 220-240 centimeters, depending on technical characteristics premises. For thermal efficiency to be good, the ceiling must be well finished.

First, the drywall is screwed in, leaving a window through which you can climb up and walk on the puffs. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the drywall, followed by 10 centimeters of mineral wool or glass wool. Use petals to prevent material from getting into Airways, otherwise there may be severe irritation. Next comes the wiring over the puffs, attached to them with metal staples. If you have extra funds and are willing to put in the extra work, you can cover the top with an OSB board and waterproofing on the inside. Theoretically, this should have a positive effect on saving energy on heating the attic and completely remove condensation, but in practice the relevance of the latter action is extremely doubtful. If you do a good roof, no waterproofing is needed.

What to do with the floor to prevent your feet from freezing

Not only the ceiling and walls need to be treated. Up to 10% of the heat in the room can “escape” through the floor, especially if the house is brick. To prevent this from happening, you need to do the following steps in strict order.

1. We create a grid of wooden beams with a height of 70 millimeters, the cell size is 60 centimeters.
2. We fill it with glass wool or eco-friendly paper, the layer should be slightly higher than the beams, so that during the process of nailing the floor itself, the paper or cotton wool is slightly compressed.
3. We fill the OSB board with a thickness of 12 mm or 15 mm, if the load on the floor is large. You can fill thick boards in places where a significant load on the floor is expected, for example, installing a 600-700 liter aquarium.
4. Laying the floor soft covering or linoleum.

The only problem this process– high cost, because wooden beams cost a lot of money, as does a thick OSB board. But these costs pay off within several years of using the attic, since it will practically not need to be heated. A 400-500 W device is enough to raise the temperature in a few minutes and maintain it for a long time.

If the attic is located above the living space, then there is practically no need to heat it in spring and autumn; the temperature from the first floor (through the floor) will be enough for a comfortable stay on the second. In winter, especially in windy weather, you will have to heat it a little. One radiator centralized system There will be enough heating.

The attic floor is often used for housing, so it is necessary to properly insulate it to create comfortable conditions. The technology is similar to similar work in any other room, but the peculiarity is that the attic is separated from the street by gables and roofing, and not by main walls. All surfaces need to be insulated, and since they differ in design, the installation of insulation is carried out differently.

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof?

Usually not on the attic floor load-bearing walls, having high thermal insulation characteristics, therefore the insulation of the roof and gables must be carried out especially carefully and effectively. This is the only way you can feel comfortable and cozy in the attic both in summer and winter.

If we compare the roof of the attic space and the main walls, it is clear that it cannot compete with them in terms of thermal insulation. In addition, the roof cannot withstand heavy loads. All this must be taken into account when choosing insulation.

Properly insulated attic room allows you to significantly increase living space Houses

In order to maximize the useful volume of the attic floor, during its construction the following rules must be adhered to:

• to reduce the load on the rafter system, choose lightweight roofing materials; in this case, use natural tiles Not recommended;
• to reduce the layer roofing pie choose modern and effective thermal insulation materials;
• special attention is paid to organizing ventilation of the roof space, otherwise moisture will accumulate in the room and thermal insulation properties will get worse.

Correctly performed ventilation and waterproofing of the attic roof allows you to remove moisture from under the roof space, which ensures effective thermal insulation and long service life of the materials used.

For the attic roof it is necessary to choose lightweight materials

The number of layers required and the thickness of the thermal insulation “pie” depend on the choice of insulation. The attic has its own design features, so the insulation must meet the following requirements:

• have low thermal conductivity, experts recommend using materials with a coefficient below 0.05 W/m*K;
• due to possible roof leaks, the insulation must be moisture resistant and lose a minimum of its properties after getting wet;
• have a light weight so as not to overload the rafter system, it depends on the density of the material, which should be in the range of 14–50 kg/m3, denser insulation materials are not recommended;
• must not burn or support combustion;
• since the thermal insulation material is laid on the roof, this requires that it holds its shape well and does not slip over time, forming gaps;
• withstand significant temperature changes, not be afraid of frost;
• have a long service life.

Insulation materials

The following materials are most often used to insulate an attic roof:

1. Mineral wool. This is an excellent solution, it does not burn and does not support the combustion process, is easy to install, has low weight, and high thermal insulation characteristics. In addition, mineral wool has an affordable price, therefore it is popular and in demand. Depending on the region where the insulated building is located, the thickness of its layer can be from 150 to 300 mm. The main disadvantage is that this material absorbs moisture well, so it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing.

   Mineral wool can be in rolls and mats; roof insulation with rolled materials is more difficult

2. Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. This material has light weight, good thermal insulation characteristics, low moisture permeability, but its main disadvantage is high degree fire hazard. When laying the foam, it crumbles, so there are gaps that need to be additionally sealed. After some time, unprotected from exposure external factors polystyrene foam begins to gradually deteriorate, so experts do not recommend insulating the attic with this material.

   To insulate the attic, you must use polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 50 mm; if necessary, it can be laid in several layers

3. Extruded polystyrene foam. This good insulation for carrying out the specified work, since it is durable, not afraid of moisture, does not burn and holds its shape well. A sufficient layer of material is 5–10 cm. Extruded polystyrene foam has low vapor permeability, so for creating in the attic comfortable conditions needs to be done right supply and exhaust ventilation, which means additional time and expense. In addition, its price is higher than that of conventional foam.

   When insulating a roof with extruded polystyrene, good ventilation is required

4. Polyurethane foam. Special equipment is used for installation, which allows the material to be applied without cracks or gaps. It has good thermal insulation characteristics, is light weight, does not burn, and is waterproof, but its disadvantage is low vapor permeability. Without organization forced ventilation It will be uncomfortable to be in such a room due to high humidity.

   It will not be possible to carry out the work of polyurethane foam insulation on your own, as professional equipment is required

5. Ecowool. This is the most suitable material for insulating the attic. It is also applied without gaps, penetrates into all cracks and fills them well, is not afraid of moisture, does not burn, is lightweight and has good vapor permeability, and is environmentally friendly. In addition to the fact that the cost of the specified material is high, it will not be possible to insulate the attic with ecowool on your own, so you will have to invite specialists to carry out the specified work.

   Special equipment is used to apply ecowool

6. Foil materials. They not only insulate the room, but also reflect heat. In order for such materials to effectively fulfill their purpose, the mirror layer must be directed into the attic. A gap of about 5 cm is left between the insulation and the vapor barrier.

   Foil insulation is used for hydro, heat and sound insulation

In each case, choose the most effective insulation for the attic you need to approach it individually. When using mineral wool, the thermal insulation “pie” can be disassembled, the condition of the rafters can be assessed and, if necessary, repair work can be carried out, and then everything can be put back in place. If sprayed materials were used, then it will not be possible to inspect the rafters.

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof from the inside?

When choosing materials for insulating the attic from the inside, the climatic conditions in which the house is located are taken into account. Each material has its pros and cons. The most popular and available material, with which the attic is insulated from the inside, is basalt wool. Installation is carried out in several layers, with overlapping seams. Usually a layer 15–20 cm thick is sufficient.

Basalt wool is laid in several layers

Experts often use polyurethane foam. It has high adhesion, so there are no gaps left after application. Polyurethane foam has high thermal insulation characteristics, so it is applied in a smaller layer, unlike other materials, which will require much more. But keep in mind that the cost of this material is high and installation will not be possible without special equipment. Expanded polystyrene boards are also often used; the thickness of the required layer will depend on the density of the material used.

If you are thermally insulating the attic roof from the inside yourself, then it is best to use polystyrene foam, basalt or mineral wool, as they are easy to install. They are often combined: first, mineral wool is laid, and then polystyrene foam boards are laid.

How to properly insulate an attic roof

The technology for carrying out these works is not complicated, especially if the insulation is performed with mineral wool. During installation of thermal insulation, it is necessary to observe personal safety measures: be sure to wear tight and closed clothing, use goggles, gloves and a respirator.

Sequence of work:

1. Preparatory stage. All wooden surfaces are well treated with antiseptics, metal parts are coated with anti-corrosion impregnation.

   Treatment wooden elements antiseptic roofs can significantly increase their service life

2. Fastening waterproofing. A waterproofing film is fixed to the rafters, and a sheathing is mounted on top. Waterproofing material laid overlapping between the sheathing and rafters, all seams are taped with mounting film, for example, “Ondutis BL” or “Ondutis ML”. First, the tape is attached to the canvas located below, this is done 5–6 cm from the edge, then removed from the tape protective layer and fix the top sheet. The material is laid from the lower slope of the roof. First, the film is secured with a stapler, and then wooden counter slats are installed to create a ventilation gap. You can fasten the slats to the rafters with nails or powerful staples, but it is better to do this with self-tapping screws. Then they move on to installing the insulation.

   Laying of insulating layers is carried out in a certain sequence

3. Installation of insulation. The insulation is laid between the rafters, work starts from the bottom and gradually moves up. In order for the insulation to fit tightly, its size should be slightly larger than the distance between the beams. To fix the insulation, use special anchors or frost-resistant glue. This applies to roll and slab insulation, such as mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam. Ecowool and polyurethane foam are applied using a special installation, so there are no unfilled voids left.
4. Attaching the vapor barrier. After laying the last layer of insulation, a vapor barrier is installed. It is attached to wooden sheathing, laid on a heat-insulating layer. Don't pull too hard vapor barrier membrane, it should sag by 2–3 cm, this will ensure the presence of a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the exterior finish.
5. The final stage is the installation of finishing materials. To do this, a sheathing is made on top of the laid vapor barrier; you can use wooden slats or a metal profile, and sheets of plasterboard, plywood, chipboard or lining are fixed onto it using special screws.

   Installation of drywall is carried out on a metal or wooden sheathing, which is attached to the rafters on top of the vapor barrier

When installing insulation, the slabs must be tightly adjacent to each other, and to eliminate cold bridges, it is recommended to lay a second layer with overlapping joints.

Useful tips for selection and installation various types insulation:

• if mineral wool or fiberglass is used, then to ensure high thermal insulation characteristics their layer should be 15–20 cm;
• basalt wool can withstand temperatures up to 1000 °C, does not absorb moisture, but it is damaged by rodents;
• 2.5 cm layer of polyurethane foam in its own way thermal insulation characteristics corresponds to an 8 cm layer of mineral wool;
• A 15-centimeter layer of ecowool corresponds to a 50-centimeter layer of wood in terms of thermal insulation characteristics;
• In order for the rolled or slab material to fit tightly between the rafters, its width should exceed the distance between them by 1–2 cm.

Features of installing insulation for an attic roof

During the design of a building with attic floor it is necessary to correctly calculate the distance between the rafters to ensure maximum structural strength. When installing insulation between the rafters, it is necessary to lay the material end-to-end so that there are no gaps, otherwise cold bridges will form.

Only correct styling all elements will allow you to effectively insulate the attic

During the installation of waterproofing, all work is carried out from the lower slope of the roof and the material is laid overlapping. It is recommended to lay another continuous layer on top of the insulation mats, which will completely cover the rafters. Wooden or metal rafters have thermal conductivity higher than insulation and are cold bridges. If they are covered with insulating material, it will be inconvenient to install the finishing elements. To simplify this task, it is necessary to mark the location of the rafters during installation of the last layer of insulation.

If we talk about insulating an attic roof from the inside, then not all materials are convenient to install; it is almost impossible to install roll insulation properly. To strengthen the rafter system, various connections are often used, which complicate the installation of the insulating layer.

Video: insulating the attic roof from the inside

Insulation of the attic gable from the outside

When insulating a gable from the outside, most specialists and home craftsmen use extruded polystyrene foam or regular foam. To perform the above work you will need scaffolding, since doing everything using a ladder will be difficult, time-consuming and tedious.

The technology for insulating the gable from the outside consists of the following steps:

1. First, the walls are prepared. To do this, they are cleaned of dirt and then primed. The primer will allow the glue to better demonstrate its characteristics. It is recommended to prime in two layers, the second is applied after the first has dried.
2. If you plan to use a finishing material such as siding, then you need to make a sheathing to secure it. It can be made of wooden beams or galvanized profiles. The height of the sheathing should correspond to the thickness of the insulation used.

   To make it easier to install polystyrene foam, the pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the width of the sheet, then the material will lie tightly and waste will be minimal

3. A sheet of foam plastic is smeared with glue in the corners and in the center and pressed for 30–35 seconds to the surface of the pediment.
4. If the foam plastic is to be plastered, it is better to additionally secure it with plastic dowels.

   If the foam plastic is to be plastered, it must be secured with dowels, and if siding is being installed, then fixing it only with glue is sufficient

5. After laying the insulation, a waterproofing film is attached. If the sheathing is wooden, then this is done using a stapler, and it is fixed to the profile using a counter lath, onto which the siding is then attached. To create a gap between waterproofing and decorative finishing, the thickness of the lathing should be 20–30 mm.
6. On last stage siding is installed or foam is plastered and then painted.

   To finish the gable, you can use both metal and vinyl siding

Video: insulating the attic gable

It’s not difficult to insulate an attic with your own hands; it’s enough to have basic knowledge and skillful hands. If we talk about pediment insulation, then when using curtain façade It is better to take a thermal insulation material such as mineral wool. If the facade is wet, it is better to insulate it with polystyrene foam. Only if the developed technologies are followed and correct execution stages of work on insulating the attic, the expected result will be obtained. If everything is done correctly, then you can use the attic as a living space all year round.

The use of attic spaces for residential purposes has long become commonplace for most domestic developers. Due to this, it is possible to obtain a completely comfortable living space at minimal financial costs. True, for a comfortable stay one very important condition must be fulfilled - properly insulating the roof. This is the only way to not only minimize heat losses V heating season, but also to maintain a favorable microclimate in the rooms.

Currently, the construction industry produces a large assortment insulation materials with high heat saving rates. To make it easier to accept optimal solution, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the performance characteristics of each of them.

Builders use two methods of insulating attic roofs, each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Insulation from outside

The arrangement of the roofing pie occurs in the following sequence: installation of the rafter system, vapor barrier from the attic, laying insulation, waterproofing (wind protection), sheathing and counter-lattice, roofing materials.

The advantages of this method This includes the ability to qualitatively control each technological operation and, if problems are detected, correct them in a timely manner.

But there is also a serious drawback. If it rains while laying the insulation (mineral wool), then very big troubles will arise. Cotton wool quickly absorbs a lot of water, and dries without dismantling for a very long time. The only best option is to take out the materials and dry them on a level area. But during dismantling, a lot of mineral wool is damaged and needs to be replaced, and this significantly increases the cost of the roof.

And one more problem. Wet wool bends so much that there is a possibility of damage to the integrity of the vapor barrier. This layer must be sealed, otherwise moisture freely enters the insulation with all the extremely negative consequences.

Insulation from the inside

The order of arrangement of the roofing pie changes. After the construction of the rafter system, waterproofing, sheathing and counter-lattice are laid and roofing materials are installed. You can take a big break here - attic space completely protected from precipitation.

Builders are quietly doing other things internal works, further insulation does not depend on the weather and can be performed at any convenient time. Insulation is installed on the attic side, fixed in the niches between rafter legs and is sealed with a vapor barrier layer.

How is vapor barrier different from waterproofing? What kind of material is vapor barrier and wind protection? Why choose membranes? Find answers to these questions in the article on our website. Peculiarities various materials and rules for their installation.

The advantage is obvious - precipitation does not have a negative impact on the quality and timing of construction warm roof. The only, and even very conditional, drawback is that it is difficult to control the gap between the wind protection and the insulation. But this is not critical for two reasons:

1. First, experienced roofers have their own methods for checking the distance between insulation and wind protection.
2. Secondly, there are the most modern membranes that can be laid close to mineral wool, and their effectiveness is not reduced by this.

Several types of materials can be used to insulate an attic roof. The specific choice should take into account the cost of insulation, climate zone location of the building and customer wishes.

What materials can be used to insulate an attic roof?

A wide selection of insulation materials puts inexperienced developers in a difficult position. It is difficult for them to find objective information; each manufacturer intensively advertises only its products. Moreover, advertising is often not entirely truthful. In the table below we will try to give objective performance characteristics each type of insulation material.

We specifically do not provide comparative indicators of thermal conductivity of various materials; they are almost the same and in practice the differences are unnoticeable.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials