How to fill a garage floor without reinforcement. Pouring a garage floor with concrete with your own hands: preparing the base, step-by-step instructions

When constructing a garage structure Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the floor, since the main load from the wheels of heavy equipment falls on it. So that it does not fail, does not crack and, in the end, does not crumble, you need to know how to fill the floor in the garage correctly.

First of all, it is necessary to scrupulously take into account all the requirements that apply to the installation of the floor in this room, since the weight that it must be guaranteed to withstand without deformation is much greater than the load on floors in residential premises.

Garage floor requirements

The floor covering in the garage must have the following qualities:

Strength, reliability (withstand heavy mechanical loads);

Fire safety, since there are always flammable substances in the garage;

Resistance to influence chemicals– it’s no secret that stains of oil, gasoline, technical fluids, paint or solvents cannot be avoided;

Resistant to both high humidity and insufficient humidity;

Possibility of regular cleaning;

Durability.

Except giving semi-purely operational qualities, many owners, for whom, as you know, a garage sometimes means more than a week, even an apartment, prefer to transform the garage base decorative coating, so they often use a special floor covering for this ceramic tiles, having high strength. Such a coating will not only make the garage space more aesthetically pleasing, but will also help strengthen the coating, and will also make it easier to clean the garage, since various oil stains can be easily removed from the tiles.

But, basically, most car enthusiasts prefer simple option flooring devices are high-quality concrete screed. Even if a decision is made later to transform the garage by laying tiles, you still cannot do without a reliable screed for it.

Materials for work

If a floor made of concrete screed is installed on the ground, then in this case you will need following materials and tools:

Fine-grained crushed stone or, if the plans include certain floor insulation, then it is better to choose expanded clay pebbles - these materials are necessary for backfilling the soil under the screed;

Reinforcing mesh for strengthening the screed (reinforcement) and reinforcement or special galvanized steel profiles for the installation of beacons;

Waterproofing material - this can be thick polyethylene film, poured waterproofing or ordinary roofing felt;

Cement, gravel and sand for screed;

Self-leveling floor for finishing coating - if this is planned;

Concrete mixer;

Putty knife;

A shovel is usually a level;

Metal corner for finishing edges inspection hole, if it is planned to be arranged;

Brick for laying pit walls.

Inspection hole

To begin with, let’s talk about the inspection hole, which is very useful in the garage for car repairs or maintenance. It is necessary to arrange it correctly and produce a high-quality fill.

A pit for an inspection hole is sometimes dug when installing the foundation of a garage. This has the advantage that the open surface allows the use of earthmoving machines. Of course, a pit dug using, for example, an excavator will have to be refined, but this is much easier to do than digging the entire hole by hand.
The walls of the leveled pit must be strengthened, and this can be done using bricks or formwork and cement mortar. At the bottom of the inspection hole, one way or another, it is necessary to fill concrete screed.
First, the bottom is leveled and compacted, then a gravel cushion is laid there and compacted in a layer of 3-4 centimeters. In order not to make a mistake with the thickness of the layer, posts with a mark are installed along the entire perimeter of the pit. They are placed at a distance of 80–100 centimeters from each other.
Then a 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured in and also compacted thoroughly.
Next, before lining the walls of the pit, it is necessary to make waterproofing. If moisture will negatively affect wall material, it will quickly collapse, and waterproofing can provide reliable protection to the walls. For these purposes, any moisture-resistant material is suitable, for example, thick polyethylene film. It must be distributed throughout the pit, both along the bottom and along the walls. If the film comes in separate pieces, they need to be sealed together using special tape.
The next stage is the installation of reinforcing mesh along the walls of the pit in two layers - one close to the waterproofing, the other at a distance of about 8-10 centimeters of wall thickness. Then the mesh is fixed to the floor.
Next, the floor of the inspection pit is poured. For these purposes, it is better to make a rough solution, which will consist of sand, gravel and cement. The thickness of the mortar should be 8–10 centimeters. The bay is prepared concrete mortar, it is leveled. This can also be done “by eye” - perfect evenness on the floor of the pit is not needed.
After the floor has hardened, you can begin installing the formwork to fill the walls. It is installed partially, approximately at a height of 40-50 centimeters, along the entire perimeter of the pit and filled with solution. To keep the formwork in place, spacer boards are installed. When this thickness is filled, the formwork can be raised to the same height, without removing the bottom, and so on to the very top. The formwork is raised above the surface of the garage floor that has not yet been poured, to the height to which it is planned to raise the floors using backfill and screed.

When the thickness of the wall is filled to the top of the soil, install the outer wall of the formwork so that the top of the pit is complete, and fill it with mortar. When the concrete has set from the inside of the pit, a metal corner measuring 50 × 50 mm is built in. It is better to fasten the corners together by welding.
The pit is left to harden, and at this time you can begin preparing the garage floor for the installation of the screed.

Preparation of the base area

It is not recommended to lay the screed directly on the ground, so the place for it needs to be well prepared - only in this case will the garage floor meet all of the above requirements.

First, the soil of the garage floor must be removed to a depth of 30-35 cm to make room for the cushion, which will become the basis of the future coating. Excess soil is removed from the garage. The height of the future screed must be calculated based on the height of the curb that was built around the inspection hole. Next, the soil is thoroughly compacted over the entire area.
Then, the sand and gravel mixture is evenly distributed over the entire area. This layer should be about eight to ten centimeters. It needs to be compacted as much as possible, and a layer of gravel of the same thickness should be placed on top. If the floors are planned to be insulated, then instead of gravel, expanded clay is laid, which is also leveled.
Next, waterproofing is arranged - this can be plastic film or roofing felt. Between themselves, the sheets of waterproofing must be connected hermetically and therefore they are laid with an overlap, which must be at least 20 centimeters. The waterproofing should also extend onto the garage walls by 15-20 centimeters.
A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing, which is secured with staples; beacons made of reinforcement or special profiles are leveled on it. They can be fixed by welding or taking advantage ofquickly hardeningconstruction cement mortar.

On this preparatory work end, and the floor is left until the solution sets on the beacons (if this option was chosen for attaching them). The upper edge of the parapet of the inspection pit will also serve as one of the beacons, so when setting additional ones, they must be compared with the height of the curbs. All beacons are leveled to achieve the required horizontality. Sometimes garage owners deliberately make a slight slope of 1 ÷ 2º towards the garage door - this to a certain extent facilitates the process of cleaning the room.

Pouring the floor

The next stage of work is important in that the performance qualities of the garage floor itself will depend on how it is carried out. We are talking about pouring a concrete screed. For garage floors, a fairly coarse solution containing a large number of gravel

1. If it is possible to use ready-made concrete mortar, which will be delivered and poured onto a prepared and pre-reinforced site, then this will greatly simplify the task. Many people are currently doing this construction companies and reinforced concrete plants that accept orders for the production of certain concrete mixture.

Poured onto reinforcing mesh the solution is quickly distributed and, as far as possible, leveled with a shovel. Next, very carefully, guiding the rule along the beacons, the solution is completely leveled.

But, even if you use a ready-made solution, it will not always be possible to fill the entire garage floor completely at once, and in this case this process must be divided into two or three stages, depending on the area of the garage, by outlining certain fields (maps) for filling.

2. If it is not possible to order the required amount of concrete for delivery, you will have to make it yourself, using a concrete mixer.

The solution for the garage should consist of threeparts sand, one part cement and threeparts gravel - these components are mixed in a concrete mixer, into which water is gradually added until the mixture acquires the consistency of thick sour cream.

If you have to fill the floors manually, it is best to divide the entire floor area into squares with formwork and fill each of them separately. To deliver concrete to the pouring site, you will need a metal wheelbarrow or stretcher.
Installing floors in this way will take much more time and, of course, effort, taking into account the fact that the thickness of the screed should be at least 60, and preferably 100 millimeters.
When leveling the solution, it must be periodically pierced with a bayonet shovel, so that there are no voids filled with air, which can quickly lead to deformation and destruction of the screed.
The floor, poured with concrete and leveled with beacons, is left to dry for approximately seven to ten days. After it hardens and it becomes possible to move along its surface, if necessary or desired, the floors can be finally leveled with a self-leveling polymer composition or a thin solution of cement and sand with the addition of construction adhesive.
If this last leveling layer is applied, it is necessary to go over it several times with a special needle roller. This will remove any air bubbles that have formed in the screed, as well as evenly distribute the composition over the entire surface.

The concrete coating of the garage floor will be considered ready for use 30-35 days from the date of the first pouring of the floor.

There are several points that are worth considering in the process of preparing, pouring and using the floor in the garage:

To make leaving the garage convenient, along with pouring the floor, it would be wise to immediately decorate the area near the garage door, also making a reinforced screed.
When using a garage, the concrete coating is subject to abrasive wear and wears off, forming cement dust. To avoid these unpleasant moments, ceramic floor tiles are either laid on top of the screed or painted. Such protection will not only strengthen the floors, but also facilitate the process of cleaning the room. To ensure that the paint adheres to the coating reliably, the floor surface can be primed with a special agent and after the primer has dried, paint can be applied.
It will be even better if you treat the floor with a special strengthening silicate compound - sealer. Penetrating into pores concrete surface, he calls chemical reactions, neutralizing chemically active substances and creating new silicate crystalline bonds. Such treatment will not only remove dust from the floor, but can also increase the strength properties of concrete by one and a half to two times, and in addition, give it excellent waterproof qualities.

At first glance, installing a floor in a garage is a very difficult task, requiring some special construction skills. However, if you approach this process with a full understanding of the actions being performed, with maximum responsibility and in compliance with all recommended technological operations, then it is quite possible to do this work yourself.

The strength and durability of the floor covering in a garage building is influenced by many factors and they should certainly be taken into account when arranging the floor. You need to know the technology of the work in order to understand how to fill the surface correctly, and what is the best way to fill the floor in the garage.

Requirements for floor coverings in garages

First of all, strong and reliable flooring in a garage building, shown in the photo, must withstand the weight of heavy vehicle, which will be located in it and not deform.

High-quality poured floor for the garage:

retains its original strength under mechanical loads - during installation, you need to take into account the weight of the machine, which is always distributed unevenly and this leads to deformation of the floor surface;
fireproof – this moment extremely important, since flammable substances are usually stored in garages. The coating should not support combustion processes and react to a significant increase in room temperature;
moisture resistant - tolerates without problems high humidity;
durable - lasts for decades without cracks or damage to the surface;
easy to keep clean;
resistant to chemicals and fuels and lubricants that often fall on the floor.

Some owners of garage buildings, in addition to providing the required performance characteristics They strive to give the room an aesthetic appearance by installing decorative flooring using high-strength ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware.

But such floors are expensive and therefore most car enthusiasts opt for a high-quality concrete screed. Even if in the future the owner decides to lay tiles in the garage, without reliable concrete base he can't get by. Let's figure out how to concrete a garage floor correctly, in order to take into account all the details of such work.

Selecting materials for filling the floor

If pouring a garage floor involves installing a concrete screed directly onto the ground, you need to prepare the following materials:

For backfilling on the ground under the screed - fine-grained crushed stone or expanded clay pebbles.
To equip beacons and strengthen the base - galvanized steel profiles and reinforcing mesh.
To create a moisture-proof layer - a dense film of polyethylene, or roofing felt in rolls, or poured waterproofing.
To mix a special solution for filling the floor in the garage - gravel (crushed stone), sand, cement.
For finishing, when it is planned - components for self-leveling floor.
To complete the edge design on the inspection hole, use a metal corner.
Bricks for laying walls in the basement. Read also: "".

Tools you will need:

shovels;
spatulas;
level;
concrete mixer.

Construction of an inspection pit

To create conditions in the garage for convenient maintenance and repair of vehicles, you will need to install an inspection pit. This work needs to be done well.

Stage one. When building a foundation in a garage, in some cases, a pit is simultaneously dug for an inspection hole, since the open space allows the use of earth-moving equipment. A pit dug by an excavator still has to be further refined, but this is easier to do than digging the ground by hand.

Stage two. The walls of the prepared pit are strengthened by lining them with bricks or using formwork and a mixture containing cement. Before pouring the garage floor, you need to lay a concrete screed at the bottom of the hole (more details: " "). To do this, the base is leveled and then compacted. Then a gravel cushion 3-4 centimeters high is placed on the bottom and compacted again. In order to avoid mistakes regarding the height of this layer, posts with markings are installed around the perimeter, maintaining a gap of 80–100 centimeters.

Stage three. Pour a 10-centimeter layer of sand and compact it well. Before you start lining the walls of the basement, for them reliable protection Waterproofing is done against moisture. Any material with moisture-resistant qualities is suitable for this purpose. This may be a thick film of polyethylene. It is laid on the surface of the walls and base, using construction tape to connect individual pieces.

Stage four. Reinforcing mesh is installed on the walls in two layers. The first row is mounted close to waterproofing material, the second - at a distance of approximately 10 centimeters. Then the mesh is fixed to the base.

Stage six. When the floor has hardened, they begin to install the formwork necessary to fill the walls. The structure is fixed around the perimeter at a height of 40-50 centimeters, after which it is filled with liquid solution. To stabilize the formwork, spacer pieces of boards are used. When the space inside is filled, the structure is raised to a similar height without removing the lower part. They continue to do this until the very top point. The formwork should be raised above the surface of the floor of the room that has not yet been filled to a height equal to the thickness of the backfill together with the screed.

Preparatory work

Professionals do not recommend installing a screed directly on the ground. The fact is that the garage floor will only meet the requirements described above when the base for the floor covering is well prepared.

The sequence of actions when performing this work will be as follows:

The soil for the floor of a garage building is removed to a depth of approximately 30 to 35 centimeters. This frees up space for the pillow - the basis for the future covering. When deciding how thick to fill the floor in the garage, they are guided by the height of the curb arranged around the basement.
The soil throughout the rest of the garage area is compacted and a sand-gravel mixture is laid on its surface in an 8-10 cm layer. It should be compacted as much as possible. A layer of gravel of similar thickness is placed on top. If it is necessary to install thermal insulation, instead of gravel, take expanded clay and level it.
Then you need to start installing waterproofing using roofing felt or thick polyethylene film. The pieces of material must be connected hermetically, for which they are overlapped by 20 centimeters. It is necessary that the waterproofing layer covers the walls of the building by about 15-20 centimeters.
A reinforcing mesh is mounted on top of the waterproofing, secured with staples. Beacons are placed on it according to the level, using galvanized profiles or fittings. These elements are fixed by welding or quickly hardening cement mortar.

After preparation is completed, the floor surface is left to allow the solution to harden on the beacons (in the case when this particular method of fixing them is chosen). One of the landmarks will also be the top of the parapet of the inspection pit.

All beacons are set according to the level, achieving maximum horizontality. You can make a slight slope of 1-2 degrees relative to the entrance to the garage and thereby simplify the cleaning procedure in the future.

Pouring the floor surface

Before you begin this stage of work, you need to know how to properly fill the floor in the garage, since the final result will directly depend on this. Typically, to create a floor in a garage, a coarse mortar containing an increased amount of gravel is used, due to which the floor covering will be more durable.

It is not always possible to completely fill the entire base of the garage floor at one time. In the presence of large area premises, this process should be divided into several stages, having previously outlined the sequence of design of individual areas.

When it is not possible to order delivery of ready-made concrete mortar, then the mixture will need to be made independently, using a concrete mixer. To do this, you will need to take 3 parts sand and gravel and 1 part cement. All three components are placed in a concrete mixer and mixed. Water is poured in gradually until a consistency similar to thick sour cream is obtained.

Before pouring the garage floor manually, experts advise dividing the surface area into squares, installing formwork and pouring them all separately. To deliver the prepared mixture to the right place, you need a special stretcher or a metal wheelbarrow. Self-cooking solution and its subsequent filling takes much more time. This type of work requires a lot of physical effort. Upon completion of pouring and hardening of the solution, the result should be a concrete screed with a thickness of at least 60 millimeters and no more than 100 millimeters.

When leveling the solution, it is necessary to pierce it from time to time with a bayonet shovel and thereby check for the presence of voids filled with air and eliminate them. Otherwise, the screed will begin to deform and eventually collapse.

After filling and leveling according to the mounted beacons, the floor is left to dry. This process takes from 7 to 10 days. When the concrete has completely hardened and it becomes possible to move on its surface, the floor, if desired, is decorated with a finishing coating using liquid bulk polymer mixtures.

As an alternative, you can prepare a thin-consistency solution of sand, cement and construction adhesive. When using such a leveling layer, after applying it, the surface must be treated several times with a needle roller, which allows you to remove any air bubbles present in the screed and at the same time pour the mixture more evenly over the entire coating area.

The entire concrete garage floor surface will be ready in 30-35 days from the start of work.

In the process of preparing, pouring, finishing and operating the garage space, the following recommendations from specialists will be useful:

With regular use of a garage building, the concrete floor covering is subject to abrasive wear and, as a result of abrasion, cement dust will certainly begin to appear on its surface. For elimination this deficiency You can lay, for example, ceramic tiles on top of the screed or paint them. Such measures will not only give the flooring additional strength, but will also greatly simplify cleaning the room.
Before painting, it is advisable to prime the floor surface in a garage building using special remedy. After it has completely dried, begin applying paint.
There is another way to finish a screed, which involves treating it with a sealer, which is a silicate reinforcing compound. This product penetrates into the pores of the surface of the concrete layer, after which chemical reactions begin in it, which neutralize the active substances and create new crystalline bonds. Treatment with sealer, in addition to removing dust from the floor surface, increases the strength properties of concrete by one and a half to two times and gives the surface good waterproof characteristics.
To ensure convenient exit from the garage, at the same time as pouring the floor, it is advisable to arrange buildings near the gate concrete platform with reinforcement.

When choosing or building a garage, special attention should be paid to the floor. It must be durable to withstand the weight of your car and available materials, as well as reliable and moisture-resistant.

Concrete floor in garage − the best option, which exists today. In addition, you can do it yourself. Let's figure out what is needed for this.

The advantages of a concrete floor are obvious, which is why it is preferred:

It is highly resistant to static load.
It has a durable coating.
It is very resistant to chemical influences, because in the garage you often use various liquids and oils.
The concrete floor is fireproof.
Resists temperature changes.
It will last a long time if construction work is carried out properly and carefully.

The disadvantages of this coating are the labor-intensive process and dust. You can get rid of the latter by laying it on top of concrete floor tiles. And you can make the process of construction work easier by first carefully studying the recommendations with all the subtleties of preparing the base for a concrete floor and its direct pouring.

Concrete floor base.

The simplest concrete floor in a garage consists of the following balls:

priming;
crushed stone;
sand;
waterproofing;
insulation;
concrete;
metal reinforcements;
tiles (if you want to get rid of dust).

To concrete a garage floor, first of all, you need to prepare the base for pouring. To do this, you need to dig a hole around the entire perimeter of the garage with a depth of 25 cm or more. With this procedure, it is very important to remove the fertile layer down to clean soil. This way you will avoid the destruction of the material in the future due to sprouting rocks.

If you plan to have an inspection hole in the garage, you need to dig an area sufficient for it and install a metal box in there, which is supplemented with boards on top. The metal box also needs external thermal insulation from expanded polystyrene.

Next, we arrange the formwork for the inspection pit, top level which should lie flush with the future garage floor. Also take care of the plastic pipe through which you will later run the electrical cable for lighting into the inspection hole. You can also take brick as the main material for the pit.

Having prepared the base for the concrete floor, you can proceed to the main measurements.

Zero level mark

To create the most correct concrete floor, consisting of layers of different building materials, it is necessary to accurately carry out all measurements. First of all, this concerns the main indicator - floor level. It should be the same at all points in the garage.

Measurements can be taken laser level, which is significantly convenient, and in its absence - water. In the second case, you and your assistant will need to move around the garage and make marks at the required level.

Such marks are applied to all walls of the room. These points are then connected by a straight line, which should be drawn along the entire perimeter of the structure.

Calculation of the thickness of PGS layers

Insulating layer under the screed.

The average thickness of the layers of material that are involved in creating a concrete floor is 25 centimeters, excluding floor tiles (if you want to lay one, add the required height to the calculations). With this calculation, the thickness of the concrete floor in the garage will be 10 cm, crushed stone will take you the same amount, and for sand we will allocate no less than 5 cm.

Thus, the depth of the excavated pit should be 25 centimeters or more. Based on these calculations, you can purchase the necessary construction material to start work.

The layers of materials must be laid gradually: first crushed stone, and then sand. The concrete layer will be the final one. For convenience, mark the height of each layer on the walls and control this when performing work.

Materials for backfill

When choosing a material for a concrete floor, we recommend choosing crushed stone. The fact is that rounded gravel will never compact to the desired level, but crushed stone will create a reliable fixed layer for you. It is better to take medium and fine crushed stone in a ratio of 60/40 or 70/30.

Sand should not contain clay, and must be sifted before use.

As for cement - a key component concrete flooring− it is recommended to use durable, for example, the grade of concrete for pouring the floor in the garage should be M200 or M300.

Making a pillow for a concrete floor

It is very important to use a vibrator or rammer when installing a concrete floor in a garage. First of all, it is necessary to compact the soil. Then we pour crushed stone over the entire floor area. However, this should be done in stages: a small layer of a few centimeters, after which it should be compacted, and then we add the next layer of crushed stone a few centimeters in size and compacted again.

Next, pour sand onto the compacted layer of crushed stone. Mandatory requirement to the sand - it needs to be moistened. We lay the sand in the same way as crushed stone, dividing it into 2-3 portions, carefully tamping each ball. This creates the necessary cushion of crushed stone and sand.

At this stage, you can also begin to push out the walls of the inspection pit, if provided for in the plan.

The next layers will be hydro- and thermal insulation materials, and then concrete pouring using reinforcement. However, first you need to take care of the joints around the perimeter of the floor.

Damper gap

Concrete floor installation.

The concrete floor on the ground is “floating”. Walls and floors can sag and rise. How to make a screed to maintain the integrity of the structure? To do this, between the vertical and horizontal ceilings along the entire perimeter, it is necessary to lay a damper tape or thin sheets of foam plastic 10 millimeters thick.

They should rise above the final floor level. Afterwards, the excess height is cut off to a level with the flooring.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a garage

Waterproofing the floor in the garage is mandatory, especially if groundwater lies close to upper layers soil. If the occurrence groundwater deep, it will be enough to use a plastic film of 250 microns or more if the water is close to the surface. You can waterproof your garage floor yourself.

To do this, you need to spread the sheets of film overlapping on the compacted surface of the sand and glue the joints with tape. The film should protrude above the level of the expected floor along the entire perimeter of the garage. After completing the concreting of the floor, the remaining film should be cut off.

Reinforcement

Since the concrete floor in the garage must support the weight of your car, it must be reinforced. To do this, you need to purchase a wire mesh with a cage size of 15 centimeters and a material thickness of 7-8 mm. Layers of mesh are laid overlapping on the floor, secured together with clamps.

However, do not rush to place the mesh directly on the waterproofing. For the reinforcement to be of high quality and reliable, it must be inside the concrete layer. Therefore, the mesh should be raised to the middle of the thickness concrete covering and place bricks or other fasteners under it over the entire area so that when the floor is poured with concrete, it does not move from the markings.

Garage floor covering.

If the concrete layer is 10 centimeters, then the mesh needs to be raised 5-6 centimeters from the waterproofing level. In this case, you will make reliable reinforcement for the floor in your garage.

Installation of beacons

In order for the floor to be level, you need to install beacons ─ straight long strips or metal tubes that are fixed in cement, according to the concrete floor pouring level marks that you previously applied to the walls of the garage.

As a rule, the planks are laid lengthwise long wall garage, lead from the wall opposite the gate ─ to the exit. The beacons are fixed on islands of a thickly mixed solution.

Next, using these planks, using a tool called a “rule,” you should level the concrete floor in the motorhome. The width between the slats should be less than the width of the rule. The first plank should be placed 30 centimeters from the garage wall, and the next one according to the dimensions of your rule.

When building a floor in a private garage, experts recommend making a slight slope from the rear garage wall towards the gate so that liquids that fall on the floor flow to the exit. The level of such a slope is from 1 to 2 degrees no more.

The next day, when the floor is dry, the beacons are removed, and the resulting voids are filled with mortar and rubbed into a level.

Insulated garage floor

Insulating your garage will save you 20% of resources in the future. How to insulate a concrete floor in a garage?

There are two options:

Insulate the floor before pouring concrete.
Place the insulation on a concrete surface.

In the first option, the insulation is laid directly on the hydraulic material, after which one should proceed to reinforcement and directly to pouring concrete. Extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 to 8 mm has proven to work well as insulation.

It can withstand high loads and is resistant to moisture. Sometimes a layer of geotextile is laid on top of the insulation - a special membrane that distributes the load. It is used in the construction of highways.

Pouring a concrete floor in a garage

Concrete floor drawing.

As a rule, concrete grade M250 or M300 is used to fill the garage floor. It is strong and reliable enough to support the weight of a passenger car. According to technology, a concrete floor in a garage should be poured in one approach, that is, in one working day.

It is likely that at this stage of the work you will not be able to cope on your own and will have to hire a team of 4 or more workers, as well as rent two concrete mixers.

Another way out of the situation is to order ready-made concrete mortar. The tray with the flow of concrete solution should be directed strictly to the center of the garage. This will make it possible to more quickly and conveniently direct the solution to the corners of the structure, level the floor and make a high-quality concrete screed, usually using beacons.

Once you have poured the concrete and pre-distributed it over the garage area, work it with a submersible concrete vibrator. It must be lowered into the concrete layer in a checkerboard pattern until “milk” appears on the surface. It will increase the fluidity of the solution, which will now certainly get into all planes, and will also remove bubbles from the composition of the material.

Using progressive movements, work along the beacons, making the floor even and smooth. If pits appear, add solution and level the surface again.

When the concrete floor is completely dry, it can be opened protective layer and paint. In addition to painting, the concrete floor can be covered with tiles. In case of cracks or chips, repairing such a concrete floor will be easier by replacing a fragment of the tile.

Very rarely used in garages wooden floor, because it is short-lived and absorbs moisture.

If you want to create an elite designer garage, use porcelain tiles for the floor. It is quite wear-resistant, can withstand heavy loads, is easy to clean and is absolutely fireproof. Does not deform during temperature changes.

Given that correct installation and care can be used for up to 50 years. This type of flooring is quite expensive, but creates a stunning impression.

Curing

Caring for a concrete garage floor is possible with your own hands. There is nothing complicated about this, but it is very important because when the concrete dries, the water evaporates and cracks appear. To avoid them after pouring a concrete floor in a garage when the outside temperature is hot, you should close the windows and gates and cover the floor itself plastic film or burlap.

Over the course of a week, you should irrigate the surface of the concrete with water, first lifting the film or watering directly over the burlap. For irrigation, use a nozzle with a large number of holes.

The concrete finally dries and sets in 7 to 20 days.

Bottom line

As you can see, making a concrete floor with your own hands in the garage is quite possible. The most important thing in this work ─ correct calculations and selection of quality materials. Before you begin installing your garage floor, carefully consider whether you need insulation, an inspection pit, and what type of flooring you will use.

Check everything carefully necessary measurements and calculations.

Do it slowly and step by step construction works, paying attention to compliance with technology. For the main stage ─ pouring the concrete floor ─ get the support of a team, since concrete hardens quickly and you need to distribute the material evenly along the entire perimeter of the garage in a short time.

Pick up quality material For finishing works on concrete, cover it with paint or lay tiles.

Concreting is the easiest way to provide a garage with a durable and reliable floor. Although not complicated, this process requires a fair amount of labor and money. But you don't need a luxury garage and extra expenses no point at all. How to properly fill a garage and how can you save money?

Filling a garage with your own hands

3 stages of concreting the garage floor

1) Ground work

Preparation, in fact, comes down to land work.

Before you start concreting, you need to take a shovel and carefully level the ground. Any unevenness needs to be removed. The smoother the earth's surface, the best result will be achieved in the end. Well-compacted soil is required for concrete pouring. Make sure that the surface does not have any, even the slightest, slope. Otherwise, the car will constantly roll downwards.

Land works

Foundation for pouring - to be or not to be?

Usually, a cushion of sand and crushed stone is not made for garages for passenger cars. She entails additional expenses, but brings little real benefit. Even if cracks appear without it, they will not be critical.

If the vehicle is a truck, a base of sand and crushed stone is required. And its thickness should be at least 10 cm. Otherwise, the concrete will very quickly become covered with cracks.

Gravel is poured first, and then sand. The gravel must be compacted well, and the surface of the sand must be carefully leveled. Sometimes a layer of waterproofing is placed on top.

2) Reinforcement

Reinforcement is needed to prevent concrete cracking in the future. For these purposes, a special masonry mesh is best suited. The greater the strength concrete pouring You need the thicker the reinforcement should be. For an average garage, fittings with a diameter of 5 mm are sufficient. A mesh with cells of 240x240 mm is usually used. The greater the load your floor will bear, the smaller the mesh cell should be.

If you have a passenger car, you can get by with one layer of reinforcement.

Reinforcement with masonry mesh

At this stage, beacons are installed. Their role is most often played by reinforcement, profile or corner. The beacons are leveled using a level. Usually two such guides are enough.

It is better to install beacons so that they do not touch the masonry mesh. During the process of pouring concrete, you will have to walk on the mesh, and the beacons may move if they come into contact with it.

3) Pouring concrete

Pre-fabricated concrete is best suited for concreting garages. Take a concrete grade no lower than M200. For an average garage, a thickness of concrete pouring of 10 cm is sufficient.

The most convenient way is to order ready-made concrete mortar from a company specializing in this at a specifically designated time. Modern equipment will not only deliver concrete to you, but will also pour it into the place you have prepared.

Making concrete for a garage by hand is a very labor-intensive process, since a garage requires a decent amount of it. Therefore, several people must be involved in its preparation. And it is more difficult to fill with them, since it is necessary to divide the garage into small zones, which are filled in turn.

If you are planning to concrete the floor of the garage, plan to immediately place the concrete and move in to it. Then you won’t have to pay for the concrete mixer twice. And if your neighbor also wants to pour his garage, you can agree with him to do it on the same day, and you will reduce your costs for delivering concrete.

Cheaper together

Perform concrete pouring better company from several people.

As you pour it onto the masonry mesh, you need to carefully distribute the solution over the surface with a shovel.

Pouring process

When the pouring is completed, the surface of the concrete must be carefully leveled using a rule sliding along the beacons. By moving the rule left and right, you can better level the surface of the concrete. This is very painstaking work, but the result will be smooth and smooth surface concrete if the beacons are installed correctly.

In one cycle of left-right movements, the rule is attracted to itself no more than a centimeter. This is the secret to a perfectly flat garage floor.

Fill Alignment

The screed sets quickly, so you need to maintain a certain pace. Professional teams of concrete workers have already developed a certain pace of work and consistency in the concrete pouring process, and your company will have to learn this during work.

The concrete pour hardens within 7 days. After this period, you can park the car in the garage. During this week, you will not have to sit idle, but will need to pour concrete twice every day (a must in hot weather!). Or, as a last resort, cover it with film to prevent moisture from evaporating.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the process of concreting a garage floor, and you can do it yourself. A certain inconvenience is only a large number physical work. But doing all the work yourself allows you to save money and not have to pay a team of concrete workers. So, gather your friends and go!

Ready fill

Among existing options The most practical and durable coating is considered to be a concrete garage floor. From this publication you will learn how to properly pour a concrete screed with your own hands and refine it different ways. We will also consider alternative solution for auto repair shops – durable wood flooring from boards.

How to concrete garage floors

Since most garages are designed to store cars, the flooring in such rooms is subject to increased stress. In order for a concrete base to last for decades, it must be poured using industrial flooring technology - make monolithic slab with reinforcement and waterproofing on a sand cushion.

Reference. The thickness of industrial coatings that can withstand a load of 500 kg/m² of area is 150-250 mm. Minimum thickness basics for a car– 10 cm, provided that it is fulfilled good reinforcement. For heavier vehicles - minibuses and trucks, this figure increases to 150 and 200 mm, respectively.

Procurement of building materials

To pour a concrete floor in a garage over the ground, prepare the following materials:

If you plan to build an inspection hole in the garage, then you will additionally need red brick for the construction of the walls, plastic pipes for laying electric cable and ventilation devices.

For laying ventilation in the pit are used sewer pipes PVC

The amount of building materials is calculated as follows:

a sand cushion 10 cm high is considered to cover the entire area of the room;
to prepare 1 m³ of concrete mixture you will need 6 bags of cement (50 kg), 48 buckets of sand (capacity - 10 l) and 74 buckets of crushed stone;
waterproofing - the area of the garage plus overlaps of the panels on each other and overlaps on the walls of 100 mm;
polyethylene foam - the perimeter of the room multiplied by the height of the screed;
the total length of the reinforcement is calculated using a grid with cells of 15 x 15 cm.

Note. Cement strainer performed with M200 concrete in volume proportions 1: 3: 5 (cement / sand / crushed stone). The ratio of components by weight is shown in the table.

Base structure

To make a reliable foundation for concrete floors in the garage with your own hands, you need to dig a pit 30 cm deep (calculated from the design level of the future coating). At this stage, an inspection ditch with a width of 0.8 m plus 25 cm at brickwork, length and height are arbitrary, selected individually depending on the height of the owner and the size of the car.

The walls and floors of the pit need to be covered with roofing felt, and then proceed to the masonry

Advice. If you plan to install heated floors in the garage, then the depth of the pit will have to be increased by 50-100 mm (the thickness of the insulation).

Carry out further work in this order:

Note. The same operations must be performed in the inspection ditch, excluding the laying of reinforcing mesh.

Before concreting the floors, you need to arrange a pit for car repairs - perform a simple screed, build brick walls and frame them metal corners with shelf sizes of 35-50 mm. During the laying process, lay between the bricks metal-plastic pipe under the lighting cable and sewer - for ventilation. For details of the construction of the technological ditch, see the video:

After 3 days, when the masonry mortar has set, install formwork from boards and beacons around the ditch. The latter are recommended to be made from reinforcement welded to rods driven into the ground, as done in the photo. The number of beacons depends on the width of the garage and the rules for stretching the concrete mixture, but usually 4 pieces are enough. – 2 along the walls and a couple in the middle.

Recommendation. It is better to insulate garage floors polymer materials high density - foam plastic 35 kg/m³ or extruded foam. Thermal insulation boards lay on top of the waterproofing, but under the reinforcing mesh.

Laying extruded polystyrene foam on waterproofing

Instructions for concreting

Ideally, the floor in the garage is poured with imported concrete from a mixer truck (in jargon - a machine - mixer). You will be required to: calculate the amount of concrete mixture, order its preparation at the nearest enterprise and pick up the machine at the specified time. For ease of installation, it is advisable to prepare a wooden gutter covered with plastic film, otherwise you will have to scatter the concrete with a shovel.

The use of a concrete mixer reduces the cost of the process, but adds labor intensity. To prevent the screed from cracking, the interval between batches should not exceed 40 minutes. The work is performed as follows:

Once pouring is complete, close the garage and do not disturb the monolithic slab for 7 days. If work is carried out in hot weather summer period, water the concrete with a small amount of water daily. After a week, remove the formwork from the pit, and after another 7 days you can begin finishing. It is allowed to load the coating after 4 weeks, not earlier. The master will tell you more about concreting floors in his garage in the video:

How to coat a concrete surface

An unprotected concrete coating tends to generate dust throughout its entire service life. The simplest way To avoid this, soak new garage floors with a deep-penetrating primer. But over time, the surface wears out and becomes dusty again, so the concrete should be finished with something. We offer the following options:

most cheap way– prime and paint;
buy rubber plates (the kind used in stadiums) or conveyor belt and glue them to the concrete base;
arrange a self-leveling floor from polymer materials.

Reference. There are many options for garage coatings, one of them is paving slabs. But, judging by the reviews on the forums, after 2-3 years of operation, a rut from the car wheels will form on it. The phenomenon cannot be avoided: the tiles are laid on a sand cushion, which sags under constant load in one place.

Painting instructions

Simple painting of floors is done with special abrasion-resistant compounds - acrylic, silicate or polyurethane enamel. The first two are applied with a wide brush or roller, and the polyurethane one is applied with a spray gun. The application technology is as follows:

Remove as much dust as possible from the surface.
Treat the floors with primer 2 times with a drying break of 15 minutes (or the time indicated on the package).
After the primer has completely dried, apply 2 layers of paint.

Important point. The primer is selected according to the type of paint. If the latter is made on acrylic base, you need to buy the appropriate soil.

How to make a self-leveling floor

This wear-resistant coating consists of two layers: a thin cement-based self-leveling screed (for example, Cerezit CN-76) and a two-component epoxy-based paint. Preparing concrete for application is carried out in the same way - removing dust and thoroughly priming. Then follow this algorithm:

Note. The surface can be made rough by sprinkling so-called decorative chips in the form of multi-colored crumbs onto fresh paint.

Complete hardening, or more precisely, polymerization of the epoxy coating occurs within 7 days. After this, the floors are allowed for use.

Installation of wooden flooring

Wood covering is not the best The best decision for the garage, but relatively cheap. The flooring is made of boards 35-40 mm thick, laid on logs made of timber with a section of 10 x 5 cm. The installation interval of the beams is 0.5 m.

Installation wooden floors is done using the following technology:

Advice. For ventilation underground space Make a couple of air vents with grates in the corners.