Roof on the bathhouse 2 floors. Gable roof for a bathhouse: technology and instructions for DIY construction

A bathhouse is a building for sanitary and hygienic purposes, which is extremely popular among the Russian population. It has become an obligatory part of leisure and recreation, a way of life of the Russian people, so not a single country house or even garden house can do without it. If there is enough space on the site for construction, then a free-standing bathhouse with a gable roof the best option. It will be easy to maintain the optimal temperature; the building will reflect ancient traditions in architecture. This article will tell you how to build a gable roof that retains heat with your own hands.

The gable roof of a bathhouse is formed by connecting two planes that are located at an angle to each other, called slopes. This is one of the easiest to design and install yourself roofing structures. In frontal projection, it has the shape of an isosceles triangle, which is considered traditional for of this type buildings The gable roof consists of the following parts:

  1. Rafter frame. This term refers to a set of elements that provide support to the roofing material. It includes: Mauerlat, rafters, tightening, ridge girder, racks and struts. The rafter frame is made from high-quality coniferous wood. Composition and mutual arrangement its parts are calculated in accordance with the expected load, which is influenced by the weight of the roofing material and the amount of precipitation in winter time. Rafters, like a load-bearing skeleton, give shape and rigidity to the structure, protecting it from destruction. To build a bathhouse roof, hanging or layered rafters are used.
  2. Roofing pie. This term refers to the roofing material and waterproofing layer that are laid on the sheathing supported by the rafters. Roofing felt, which has a greater margin of safety than polyethylene films and diffuse membranes, is often used as waterproofing. To cover bathhouse slopes, corrugated sheeting, metal tiles, ondulin or slate are used.
  3. Pediments. The gable roof has two triangular-shaped pediments, which are a continuation of the end walls. The gables are sewn up more light lumber or made of the same material as the façade of the building. Baths made entirely of timber or logs have a better ability to retain heat, but they are more expensive due to the higher consumption of lumber and the difficulties associated with DIY assembly. To reduce fuel consumption to maintain temperature, the gables are insulated inside or outside, seal the cracks and line them with decorative material.

Note! The microclimate that is installed in the bathhouse is an aggressive environment for building materials. The difference between internal and external air temperatures, heat and humidity have a detrimental effect on wood, so any instructions for building a roof for a bathhouse with your own hands involves treatment with antiseptic and moisture-proof compounds. The high risk of fire explains the need to use fire retardants to protect rafters from fire.

Types of structures

A gable roof is the most rational and popular type of roofing structure used for building bathhouses with your own hands. She wants the building to be similar to a traditional mansion, making it not only functional, but also aesthetic. Experienced craftsmen They talk about the possibility of installing two types of gable roofs:


Important! If the bathhouse is built as an extension to a residential building, then the most rational option the ceiling is a pitched roof. It looks less presentable and has less energy efficiency, however, it costs much less and is built faster.

Rafter system

The set of wooden elements that support the shape of the roof is called the rafter system. It consists of trusses, each of which has the shape of an equilateral triangle, its base is equal to the width of the bathhouse, and the legs are rafters. Triangle – the most resistant geometric figure, so the roof frame can withstand significant loads. To construct a gable roof, two types of frames are used:


Note! When determining the composition of the rafter frame, its own weight, the weight of the attic floors and the seasonal snow load are taken into account. The thickness of the rafters is determined in accordance with the length of the slope, the width of the step between the legs and the type of roofing material. In order for the roof to last longer, you should leave a small reserve of strength, which will prevent breakdowns in extreme weather conditions.

Installation

Construction of a roof is a technically complex process, so when building with your own hands, it is important to thoroughly follow the recommended technology. Installation work is carried out in dry weather to keep the rafter frame elements dry. The tools you will need are a grinder, a jigsaw, a screwdriver, a drill, construction stapler. Assembly is performed in the following order:


Important! Since the bathhouse requires the presence of a heating device, the final stage of roof construction is the removal of the chimney pipe. It should be located at a distance of 30-50 cm from the ridge and rise above it by 50-100 cm.

Video instruction

When building a bathhouse, everyone thinks about what roofing material to cover the roof with. The roof must perform protective function, fit well into the overall ensemble on the site and last as long as possible. The buyer wants quality characteristics and price were balanced. We will tell you how to cover the roof of a bathhouse, what roofing materials are best to use, their pros and cons.

The roof of the bathhouse should not only play a protective function, but also withstand high internal temperatures well.

It is necessary to select a roof for a bath based on the following factors:

  1. Average precipitation level in the area where construction will take place.
  2. Roof structure and angle of inclination.
  3. What material is the roof of neighboring buildings (house, garage, etc.) covered with?

Usually the design of the bathhouse is not complicated and the roof is mounted with a gable or single-pitched roof. Covering a complex structure is expensive and labor-intensive. Complex roof It is better to entrust it to specialists, since proper installation requires skill.

When choosing a roof structure, you must adhere to the following rules:

  1. For a free-standing bathhouse, it is preferable to make two slopes and a lean-to attached one. Tilt angle 45°-65°.
  2. A gable roof is built on a bathhouse with an area of ​​more than 12 m²; for a smaller one, a shed roof is suitable.
  3. For climate zones with average rainfall and more, the roof slope angle should be at least 45°. Otherwise, snow will accumulate on the roof in winter and can damage the structure.
  4. For a windy area (steppe, forest-steppe), it is better to choose a slope angle of less than 40. The wind force will have less impact on the “windage” of the roof.

Roofing materials can be sheet or roll. The design of the roof is different for different materials. It is necessary to install a sheathing under corrugated sheeting, tiles or slate. Roll types spread out on a continuous plane. To do this, boards or sheets of plywood are sewn onto the rafters in a continuous layer.

Various materials for bathhouse roofing

Ruberoid is the most economical of all roofing materials.

The roof of the bathhouse should not only be of high quality, but also inexpensive. In order to save money, we can recall the old-fashioned methods: planks, wood chips and turf.

The wood chip structure is made from large chips of coniferous trees. Lay the chips in 2-3 layers so that each chip overlaps the previous one. The roof looks vintage and attracts attention, but the work is labor-intensive. The roof will last from 5 to 10 years. The service life depends on the design and angle of inclination; the steeper the slope, the longer the roof will please the owners.

The turf roof is made in several layers: bitumen mastic, gravel in a layer of 2-3 cm, then 2 layers of turf. The lower one is laid with the roots up, and the upper one, with the roots down. Externally, the roof will resemble a grass clearing. A turf roof has high thermal and sound insulation, but in the summer in the sun it can dry out and lose its protective properties, so the roof is periodically watered with a hose. The weight of the roof is large and it is short-lived.

A plank roof is made from logs impregnated with bitumen or virgin oil. The logs are laid in 2 rows, the bottom one proudly down, the top one in a tray.

But these designs have outlived their usefulness, since they had high degree fire hazard and short service life. They can be seen on some designer vintage bath designs.

Modern roofing

Modern materials include hard, soft and rolled. All of them have a certain service life and are suitable for different angle roof slope. More detailed indicators can be seen in the table:

To save money, it is easier to cover a bathhouse at the dacha with ordinary slate or roofing felt. For a building next to a residential building, they use the same ones as on the main roof of the house: corrugated sheeting, ondulin. The most expensive option is metal or ceramic tiles. The cost of the roof can take ⅓ of the entire construction.

Pros and cons of different roofs

Each type of roof has its own characteristics, pros and cons. They play a decisive role when choosing material for your bathhouse. Let's take a closer look at each of the materials.

Ondulin and soft tiles

Pros:

  1. Easy to install due to low weight.
  2. More than 5 colors.
  3. High sound insulation (rain and hail will not be heard inside the bathhouse).
  4. Good resistance to mechanical damage.
  5. Tolerates temperature differences from -60°C to +60°C.
  6. There is no need to make a massive rafter system.

Minuses:

  1. High cost soft tiles.
  2. Ondulin has a high fire hazard.
  3. You need a tilt angle of more than 45°, otherwise snow will accumulate on the roof.

Corrugated sheeting and metal tiles

Pros:

  1. Durability.
  2. The corrugated sheet is easy to install.
  3. Variety of colors, more than 25.
  4. Fire safety.
  5. Light weight, no need for massive rafter system.
  6. It tolerates temperature changes, mechanical and chemical influences well.

Minuses:

  1. High price.
  2. At strong impact may become deformed.
  3. Low sound insulation.

You can see the design in more detail in the video:

Slate

Pros:

  1. Low price.
  2. High fire resistance.

Minuses:

  1. Fragile especially at sub-zero temperatures.
  2. Unattractive appearance.
  3. It is heavy, so a more powerful rafter system is needed.
  4. Not durable.

Ruberoid

Pros:

  1. Low price.
  2. Easy to install.

Minuses:

  1. Not durable.
  2. Easily damaged.
  3. It must be applied using dangerous hot mastic.
  4. Low fire safety.

The choice of roof will determine how to install the sheathing structure. Let's look at the example of roofing made of slate (hard) and roofing felt (roll).

Features of laying a hard roof

A hard roof is one of the most successful options for a bathhouse in a private home.

The lathing under the hard roof is attached in increments of 0.6-1 m, depending on the size of the sheet of material. Waterproofing is spread on top of the sheathing, for example, a special membrane is produced under the metal tiles. If roofing felt is used as waterproofing, then the sheathing is secured with a continuous structure.

Slate can be attached directly to the sheathing using special nails with a wide head (slate). They are coated with an anti-corrosion layer and will not rust. The length of the nail depends on the material; 10-12 cm is taken for slate. A special rubber washer or a sheet of roofing felt is placed under each nail.

Laying begins from the bottom up, in a running start. The overlap of the sheets on the bottom one depends on the angle of the roof: less than 45° - 14 cm, more than 12 cm. If the area where the bathhouse is being built is windy, then the bottom row (eaves) is additionally reinforced with staples or screws. All joints and joints are coated with 4–5 mm of mastic or bitumen at the end.

The ridge for a rigid roof can be a bent sheet of stainless iron. To do this, cut strips of 0.6 m each and bend them in half. The sheet is attached to a wooden ridge. For metal tiles and painted corrugated sheets, a special ready-made ridge is sold.

Features of fastening soft roll roofing

Ruberoid looks good in a small country bathhouse.

Rolled material, such as roofing felt, must be laid in several layers. The layers are glued together with bitumen or mastic. The sheathing is fastened with a continuous layer; you can use plywood, so the work will go faster.

An iron ridge made of stainless steel is attached to the top. And additionally covered with parchment or roofing felt. The roofing felt should be attached to the ridge with bitumen mastic heated to 1800C. You need to work quickly, as the mastic hardens quickly. Be careful when doing this, as you can scald yourself. To do this, lift the solution up ⅓ of the bucket, and put on protective gloves and boots.

The bedding under the roofing felt is glued in overlapping strips, laying them across the ridge. Additionally, the material is fixed with tar paper nails. On both sides of the ridge, the material should lie on wooden roof by 25–30 mm.

You need to work with roofing felt wearing protective gloves and with caution.

The resulting layer of roofing felt is again coated with mastic and roofing felt is glued. It is also glued in strips, throwing it over the ridge. The strips are laid overlapping the previous one by ½ width. The seams are coated with mastic and carefully smoothed so that the material lies evenly and there are no bubbles.

Along the slope, the roofing material is rolled out from top to bottom, bending it 20–25 cm behind the sheathing under the cornice. The bends are secured with wooden slats and tar nails. Along the edges of the roof, roofing felt is fixed in the same way.

An additional protective layer must be made between the pipe and any roofing material. Asbestos or metal sheets are used for this. Such measures are especially necessary when roofing with soft or rolled materials.

Which type of roofing for a bathhouse is better to choose in each specific case can be answered knowing all the features of the structure. But the choice must be made carefully, since it is better to cover the roof immediately for a long time. And the quality of the material will determine how often repair work will have to be carried out.

The construction of the bathhouse is completed by fastening roofing structure, a single-pitched and gable roof is possible here. The second option is the most popular. It is quite possible to construct this type of roof on one's own subject to accurate calculations of the angle of inclination of the slopes and the power of the rafter system.

It's also worth considering using under-roof space– whether the attic or attic will be equipped. If you want to build a bathhouse with a veranda under a common roof, this also needs to be calculated in advance.

All these nuances affect ridge height, type of thermal and waterproofing, selection of necessary materials and the complexity of installation work. Of no small importance is price structural elements and roofing material.

Advantages of a gable roof

Why, when building a roof on a bathhouse? are more often chosen gable building? This is due to the complex benefits:

  • thanks to the pitched structure, it is ensured natural drainage snow and rainwater, so the roof does not require significant maintenance efforts in the autumn-winter season;
  • the practicality of the design allows for installation under the roof attic, adapted for storing various equipment and drying bath brooms, or a full living space where guests can be accommodated;
  • with a small area, bathhouses in the attic can be equipped technical area with removal of heating and air conditioning systems upstairs;
  • gable roof installation not too complicated and is accessible to the non-specialist subject to careful preparation and ensuring security and during work at height;
  • buildings with ridge roof very attractive, have a finished appearance and allow you to add variety through individual decoration of gables and the use of various roofing materials;
  • roof with two slopes lasts a long time and does not require expensive complex repairs;
  • building a gable roof is sufficient economical option m compared to the construction of more complex and large-scale roofing systems.

Gable roof installation

Before purchasing materials and proceeding with installation, you must familiarize yourself with with features gable roof devices. The basis of the design is rafter system, which rests directly on the erected walls, if the bathhouse is made of logs or laminated veneer lumber.

In case of using other types wall materials(brick or foam concrete) is laid along the upper perimeter of the wall support beam(mauerlat) for fastening the rafter system. Depending on the size of the span between the supporting wall and the ridge part of the rafters there may be layered or hanging.

As additional roof reinforcements with a span of more than 3 meters are installed under rafter legs(struts) and rafter headstock for support ridge girder. Install along the entire length of the slope triangular trusses with a certain step.

Rafters with support on the Mauerlat It is easier to install than hanging ones, but it is necessary to take into account the spacer load on the walls and adjust the weight of the rafter system. The optimal angle of inclination of the slope is considered 40-50 , therefore, with significant inter-slope spans, the height of the ridge is proportionally increased, which can improve the design buildings and become the basis for arranging the attic living area.

Phased construction technology

The construction of a gable roof of a bathhouse includes several main stages:

  1. carrying out structural calculations and compilation drawing or scheme with dimensions;
  2. acquisition and marking materials, tool preparation;
  3. installation load-bearing beams;
  4. installation rafter system, including installation of intermediate truss gables;
  5. equipment ventilation pipe outlet from the stove-stove with a fire-resistant casing to prevent the roof from catching fire;
  6. fastening battens;
  7. installation insulating layers;
  8. flooring roofing materials;
  9. decor ridge part.

The best material for forming a rafter system is high-quality pine timber. Suitable for lathing edged board . Roofing material is chosen based on style preferences, budgetary possibilities and labor intensity of the flooring.

The most popular roofing material for bathhouses is considered profiled sheet by virtue of optimal combination its cost, performance and ease of installation.

For waterproofing It makes sense to purchase membrane materials that are lightweight and at the same time highly effective in protecting the structure and attic space from moisture. Thermal insulation is selected taking into account material weight, which is especially important when building a large bathhouse with several rooms, including a residential attic area.

Gable roof for a bathhouse - stages of construction


The construction of the bathhouse is completed by fastening the roof structure; a single-pitched and gable roof is possible here. The second option is the most popular. It is quite possible to construct this type of roof independently, provided that accurate calculations are made of the angle of inclination of the slopes and the power of the rafter system. It is also worth thinking about the use of the under-roof space - whether an attic or attic will be equipped. If you want to build a bathhouse with a veranda under a common roof, this also needs to be calculated in advance. All these nuances affect the height of the ridge part, the type of thermal and waterproofing, the selection of necessary materials and the complexity of installation work. The cost of structural elements and roofing material is of no small importance.

Roof for a bathhouse with your own hands: single-pitched and gable

Even at the bathhouse planning stage, you need to think about what the roof will be like. Its main functions are protective, but do not forget about the aesthetic side. For the simplest structure of a bathhouse, you should not take a complex roof structure. The fewer bends, skates, the more practical system. For a bathhouse, they usually use a gable or single-slope structure, which you can easily assemble with your own hands. If you don’t know how to install a roof for a bathhouse with your own hands, then this article will be a real help. We will tell you how to do the work quickly and correctly, introduce you to some of the subtleties and tricks of installation, and help you choose a practical design.

Roof for a timber bathhouse, gable.

Standard roof model for baths

There are many roof structures for bathhouses, but the basis is always taken as a standard one of 2 elements: a rafter load-bearing base and a roof, which is attached to a sheathing with waterproofing. Based on functionality, roofs can be divided into: with and without attic floors. The first option is more difficult to assemble, but the bathhouse will become functional. Availability attic floor does not in any way affect the choice: single-slope or gable. Of course, you can find more complex hipped ones, but these are rarely assembled with your own hands.

Which roof is better, a shed roof or a gable roof?

When choosing a roof design, you need to take into account the following factors:

  1. Location of the building on the site. For attached baths, this is usually a lean-to system.
  2. Material possibilities. A single-slope building is built mainly to save money.
  3. Features of the bathhouse layout. For a building with an attic, it is better to choose a gable one.

Scheme pitched roof for a bath

A lean-to structure is chosen mainly for a bathhouse at the dacha, when you need quick assembly With minimal costs. Mostly pitched roofs are made low, at a slight angle.

Scheme of a gable roof for a bathhouse.

More often you can find gable structures with a high ridge. If you equip and insulate the roof, you can get additional space. It is convenient to place a recreation room or billiard room in such a room. The uninsulated one is used as an attic for storing brooms and dried herbs for the steam room.

What to consider when choosing the height of the ridge or the steepness of the slope

When choosing the height of the ridge you need to consider:

  1. Features of the climatic conditions of the region (windiness, amount of precipitation).
  2. Aesthetic aspects.
  3. Features of the construction of a bathhouse.

The roof is gable on a bathhouse made of timber with a slope of 45 degrees.

The roof inclination angle can be from 2.5 to 60 °. A flat roof can be used in a region where the average annual rainfall is low. Cool is done when the design includes an attic or attic space. But in regions with strong winds, a ridge that is too high cannot be used. For example, in steppe regions, where the amount of precipitation in winter is minimal, a flat roof with an angle of a maximum of 10 ° is used, in northern regions with a lot of snow - from 45–60 °.

The lower the roof, the less material and physical means spent on its installation.

Bath roof support system

A gable roof has a base of slopes that rest on floor beams or are connected to the mauerlat frame on top. Mauerlat is a beam that is mounted on two walls of a bathhouse. Floor beams gable roof on wooden bathhouses they are attached using special sockets, which are made in the upper crown. The nests must have a strict horizontal line where the support elements are placed.

Floor beams can protrude beyond the walls of the bathhouse. If the support beam protrudes beyond the walls by more than 1 m, then additional support is installed for it in the form of a column.

For a bathhouse with a pitched roof, the beam system is made so that the stop on both sides has different heights. Rafter trusses are secured using purlins and rafter beams.

Rafter leg system

A rafter truss consists of rafter legs that rest on the top link of the wall or mauerlat. The rafter legs in the structure are affected by two forces at once: compression and bending. Therefore, they need to be made from wood with a diameter of at least 120 mm or timber 60x60 mm. You can make the legs of the rafter system from boards 40x150 mm or larger.

It is easier to assemble trusses from glued or edged timber with your own hands. If you don’t have such materials at hand, you can take boards and join them together with nails or self-tapping screws. You can install notches in such legs only at support points.

According to the method of fastening, rafter legs can be layered or hanging.

Hanging rafters

This system consists of rafter legs that rest on top of each other. A ridge is mounted at this junction. The reference points of the hanging rafters are the outline of the roof. Hanging systems are subject to horizontal pressure, which a special tightening helps to resist. Nodal connections hanging rafters can be strengthened with rails, but in a lightweight design they can be omitted.

To build a lightweight system from small-section timber, it is necessary to perform additional runs. They will strengthen the structure.

Rafter system hanging structure should be as rigid as possible, since during operation heavy loads are placed on it. The slope planes are connected by additional diagonal beams, this is especially important in windy areas of the country.

Layered rafters

Sloped roof structures are most often used in single-pitch types. The system does not use additional puffs; it is as simple as possible. The rafters rest on a mauerlat, which is mounted on one of the load-bearing walls. They can be fastened with knitting wire or through the Mauerlat with screws or metal pins. The pitch of the rafters of the layered system is calculated depending on the total load of the roof and winter precipitation. In this case, you need to take into account the selected slope of the bathhouse roof.

Features of installation of a gable roof truss system

The gable roof system of the bathhouse consists of trusses, which should be installed sequentially. All of them must have the same dimensions and are installed in one step. The rafter system is needed for laying roofing material for hydro and thermal insulation.

The easiest way is to put together a truss system on the ground with your own hands, and then raise it with the help of machinery. The shape of the rafters should resemble an isosceles triangle. If the roof is complex, then the structure can be strengthened with additional linings and ties. To simplify the work, you can make a truss template and substitute it during the manufacture of each subsequent one.

First, you should install the two outer rafters and connect them with a reel. The regel is a transverse beam that connects the trusses to each other. The regel can be secured using metal screws. To do this, you need to cut it out and drill holes for fastening.

Rafter trusses must be installed strictly vertically. To do this, they are checked with a plumb line. Defects are leveled out by trimming off excess or lining that does not reach under the rafter.

A short video will help you understand the installation in more detail:

Features of installation of a pitched roof truss system

If the distance between load-bearing walls baths are less than 4.5 m, then there is no need to provide additional support. a mauerlat is laid on one of the walls, in which grooves for the rafters are cut out. On the opposite wall, the same ones are cut out in the upper link. Their size should correspond to the rafters so that it fits snugly against the cut. You should not use all possible sealing gaskets.

The rafters should be such a length that they extend beyond the contour of the walls by 30–50 cm. This will make it possible to mount a cornice that will protect the walls from rain. The rafters are attached to the mauerlat and the top beam using iron pins or screws.

Roof sheathing

Next, for any design, the sheathing is made. Its pitch must be calculated depending on the material with which the structure will be covered. If this soft roof, for example, andulin, then the sheathing is made of wide boards, leaving a gap of 1 cm between them. For hard sheets, for example, slate or corrugated board, the sheathing is made of bars with a section of 50x50 mm. The fastening step can be from 15-50 m.

Installation of the sheathing should begin from the ridge downwards using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Along the ridge, installation of the sheathing begins with two boards, which should be attached to it. Next, the roof is waterproofed and covered with the selected material. The ridge and cornices are hemmed.

For roofs with an attic, additional insulation is necessary. You can read about how to insulate the roof of a bathhouse in the following article.

If you don’t rush and do the work correctly, the roof of the bathhouse will last for more than one generation of your family. And its appearance and shape will delight you for many years.

Roof for a bathhouse with your own hands: installation, photos and videos


Roof for a bathhouse with your own hands, which roofs are easier to assemble yourself. Description of the design of a pitched and gable roof.

How to make a bathhouse roof with your own hands

Most owners of private houses build a bathhouse on their property. Laying the foundation and building the walls is only part of the job. You also need to properly make the roof with your own hands, since this will determine how much the structure can withstand precipitation. Only a combination of correctly performed work can guarantee you a high-quality result and comfortable conditions in the bath. This can be achieved if you follow step by step instructions for construction with your own hands.

Options for roof designs for bathhouses

Before you start building a roof in a bathhouse, you need to choose the best option. It should be as simple as possible, but reliable, since it is needed to protect the structure from rain and snow.

Most often, baths are:

The roof structure itself depends on this. This is also affected by the frequency of operation of the bath. For one that will be used all year round, it is best to choose a gable one with an attic, as it is warmer. There you can equip a rest room.

Summer baths are usually built without an attic, but are designed to install a tank of water for heating under the sun. This type of roofing is easier to construct.

According to their shape, roofs can be:

Shed roofs are the simplest. Typically used when attaching a bathhouse to the main house or other building. The rafters rest firmly on opposite walls at a certain angle of inclination.

The optimal tilt angle is 20–30°, but if the bathhouse is built in areas with high levels of precipitation, then this parameter increases to 45°.

Gable roofs are installed on separate structures. They consist of two parts connected to each other at an angle. For areas where it rains in winter a large number of snow, the connection angle should be quite sharp (from 45 to 80°) so that precipitation can easily drain and does not put pressure on the roof from the outside. And in areas where there are frequent winds - minimum slope so that in case of strong gusts it does not fly off the bathhouse.

Multi-pitched roofs are usually not erected on small bathhouses, as this is not entirely rational and convenient. But if a large bath complex is being built, then it will be appropriate here. It has a beautiful appearance and allows you to arrange additional rooms under its arches (relaxation rooms, billiard rooms, storage rooms, etc.). The disadvantage of the roof is the complexity of its construction.

That is why masters often choose this option.

How to make a gable roof diagram correctly

The best option for a small bathhouse is a gable roof. It can be inclined and hanging. The first option is equipped with additional wooden stops for greater stability. Hanging systems rest only on the mauerlats or ceiling beams. At the top, the rafters are supported by crossbars.

Preparation for installation: sizing, drawings

For convenience, all calculations will be made for a bathhouse with a side of 5 m. It is recommended to build it from sawn timber, and use the top row as a mauerlat.

Before making rafters, you need to do everything necessary calculations and measurements, as well as determine the angle of inclination of the roof and the dimensions of the wooden elements.

The roof system is subject to certain loads:

  • the mass of rafters, sheathing and the roofing material itself;
  • workers' weight;
  • probability natural Disasters(they are not taken into account in our country, since they have a low percentage of probability of their occurrence).

When calculating the thickness and width of the rafter system elements, take into account the totality of all types of loads.

The lower elements of the rafters are placed on the Mauerlat, and they bear lateral and vertical loads. Horizontal ones are placed on crossbars. The ridge part of the rafters takes on the compression forces in the horizontal direction. Rafter spans are subject to the greatest degree of bending.

When calculating the load, it is necessary to use correction factors that depend on the height of the house.

There are also different snow load values ​​depending on the climate zone.

Belonging to a certain climatic zone can be viewed on a special map.

Choosing roofing material

The wood that is used for the construction of the rafter frame must have a minimum number of flaws (primarily this concerns knots and cracks).

For the roof of a bathhouse, pine or spruce boards are most often chosen due to their high degree of strength. This wood is easy to process. Experts recommend using grade I lumber, well treated with antiseptic and antifungal agents. But for a small bathhouse, grade II or III material is suitable.

You can use laminated veneer lumber with a high degree of strength without signs of deformation. But such material is expensive.

  • 20% (if the inside of the bathhouse ceiling is completely covered with finishing materials);
  • 23% (if some roof elements will be located on the street, for example, a canopy over a veranda or terrace).

Wood for roofing must be dried in a natural way(in a dry room at a low temperature) for 2–3 years or in special chambers at the highest possible temperature.

There are a large number of roofing materials:

The most popular and available materials are metal tiles and corrugated sheets, which are characterized by their low price and long service life.

The corrugated sheet is made of galvanized steel with a special coating. Its main difference from metal tiles is the thickness of the metal. For example, corrugated sheets with a thickness of more than 1 mm are not intended for roofing.

Advantages of this material:

  • high performance;
  • ease of installation (sheets can be easily selected according to the exact size of the roof slope);
  • light weight;
  • affordable price.

There are also disadvantages, for example, low sound insulation characteristics, less attractive appearance compared to metal tiles, short service life (about 5 years).

  • high degree of corrosion resistance;
  • excellent sound absorption, which provides multilayer material;
  • long service life (about 50 years);
  • wonderful appearance.

Despite positive traits, it is not suitable for installing pitched roofs, since it is laid only at an angle of at least 14°. Corrugated sheets have no restrictions.

Ruberoid is an inexpensive but short-lived material. It is easy to install and does not require much labor. For a budget roof covering for a bathhouse, roofing felt can be called a completely acceptable option.

Slate is an affordable roofing material that is suitable for a bathhouse. It has a fairly long service life (about 40 years) and does not require additional care. Installation of slate sheets is carried out quickly, which is very important in the final stages.

The disadvantage of this material is the high degree of water absorption, so after 2-3 years moss and various harmful lichens may appear on it - painting will help to avoid this. The high fragility of slate is also a significant disadvantage. Therefore, it is better to pre-drill holes into which fasteners will be driven.

What material and tools are needed

In order to build a gable roof for a 5x5 m bathhouse, you need:

  • boards (pine or spruce) - 50x150 mm (the distance between the rafters is recommended to be 90 cm);
  • unedged board for temporary fixation of rafters;
  • edged board - 20x100 mm (length 3 m);
  • metal corners;
  • metal plates - thickness 2 mm;
  • bars - 50x50 mm;
  • bolts with washers and self-tapping screws;
  • glued plywood, OSB or unedged board for sheathing;
  • slats - 20x50 mm;
  • insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing material;
  • metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
  • Bulgarian;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • stapler;
  • hammer;
  • tape measure - length at least 10 m;
  • sharp knife;
  • electric screwdriver;
  • antiseptic agents and impregnations.

Construction of a bathhouse roof: step-by-step instructions

To install the roof you need to follow the following plan:

  1. Check the parallel position of the Mauerlat (the degree of run-up is no more than 2–3 cm). Fixing dowels must be placed at the required distances.

Creating a sheathing

The sheathing can be slatted or solid.

All work takes place in several steps:

  1. Creating a sheathing from wooden slats depends on the chosen roofing material. For subsequent fastening of metal tiles or corrugated sheets, it is necessary to nail slats onto the slings in increments of about 40 cm. It is recommended to make a template to control the distance between the sheathing elements. Near the ridge, the slats should be nailed in small increments. On the side of the two gables, you need to make a straight line using a special beating rope. Cut off the excess ends of the slats with a saw.

After installing the sheathing, it is necessary to close the end sides of the roof. If you plan to create an attic, then you need to leave space for installing doors and windows.

Insulation from the inside

For insulation, you can use mineral wool 10 cm thick. First, it is laid on the rafter system vapor barrier material to protect against moisture from the interior of the bathhouse.

Insulation is laid on top of it, and then waterproofing material, which will prevent moisture from penetrating through small cracks in the roof.

Protective hydro- and vapor barrier films are laid with an overlap of about 15–20 cm, then glued together with construction tape.

How to properly cover a roof

Laying roofing material is no less important part of the roof structure than its construction. If you properly cover the bathhouse with metal tiles or metal profiles, you can protect everything wooden elements structures from precipitation, which will significantly extend their service life.

To lay metal tiles you will need:

  • roulette;
  • electric screwdriver;
  • construction cord;
  • special screws (4.8x28 mm and 4x20 mm) with gaskets;
  • long rail;
  • scissors for cutting metal profiles;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • special cutting electric shears.

Stages of installation of roofing material:

  1. The metal tiles are lifted onto the roof frame using special belts. The first sheet is placed and carefully aligned along the end part and the cornice. It is attached with self-tapping screws at the points where the wave joins the sheathing slats. They are screwed in a certain order.

How to properly build a bathhouse roof with your own hands


How to make a bathhouse roof with your own hands: construction instructions. Selection of materials. How to properly lay roofing and thermal insulation material. Photo and video.

Gable roof for a bathhouse: technology and instructions for DIY construction

A gable roof with an attic is the optimal solution for creating reliable design in the bathhouse meeting all standards. It is functional and the right approach can be a good decoration. But in order for the gable structure to meet all the assigned tasks, it is necessary to design it correctly.

Advantages of a roof with two slopes

In some cases, you can get by with installing a simpler roof with one slope. But if you think about it, financial expenses are not that different. Moreover, in terms of functionality, a gable roof has a number of advantages:

  • the possibility of arranging a residential attic space or adapting it for bath accessories;
  • high degree of thermal insulation of the bathhouse ceiling;
  • at proper organization slope, the structure will last as long as possible without repairs and additional maintenance;
  • decent appearance.

A simple example of a gable roof: 1 – rafters; 2 – transverse fastening; 3– Mauerlat; 4 – ridge beam.

What will you need for your job?

Construct a gable roof on small sauna You can do it yourself, but first you need to decide on the materials. This is not only the wood used to assemble the frame, but also the coating responsible for the angle of inclination. For each type of material, its own indicators are recommended:

  • ondulin – 3-15 degrees;
  • metal tiles - 27 degrees;
  • Euroslate - 27 degrees;
  • seam roofing – 18 degrees;
  • roofing material - 5 degrees;
  • corrugated sheeting – 8 degrees.

The indicators are dictated not by the decorative finish, but by the weight load on the roof frame. The heavier the material, the greater the angle of inclination is necessary. Gentle slopes may break under the influence of precipitation (snow) and the load exerted by the coating. In addition, the heavy structure will create additional load on the foundation of the bathhouse. This also needs to be taken into account.

When choosing a material and determining the angle of inclination, it is recommended to take into account the climatic conditions in the region. If precipitation is not intense, then the given indicators for each material can be changed.

In addition to the covering, the construction of a gable roof on a bathhouse and other structures requires lumber:

  • embedded beam (mauerlat) is made of material with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm;
  • trusses are wooden beams 50x100 mm;
  • Unedged boards are used as sheathing.

In addition, you will need a film to isolate the steam passing from the steam room and washing department and insulation.

Stages of gable roof assembly and rafter system

A roof in any structural plan is a frame sheathed with a roofing covering. All work is carried out in strict sequence.

First, the Mauerlat is installed. To do this, a 150x150 mm beam is laid along the top of the walls and attached to studs. They are built in in advance at the stage of laying bathhouse walls made of brick or other material. There is also the option of wire fixation. To do this, pieces of the required length are laid between the penultimate and last crown of logs, if the bathhouse is built of wood, or in brickwork. The Mauerlat must be laid evenly, both horizontally, and the diagonal of the structure must be checked.

Grooves are cut out in the Mauerlat for laying the rafter legs at a certain distance. If Wall panel thicker than the base of the roof, it is additionally wrapped in several layers of roofing felt and bricked on the outside to increase strength.

Next you need to collect truss structure. This is a rigid triangular beam made of timber. To further strengthen them, a spacer is mounted across each one. A crossbar is installed at the top of the corner. It is installed after installing the rafters, and it is better to assemble them on the ground, having previously “removed” the dimensions.

When collected required amount rafters, they need to be installed on the Mauerlat. The ridge corners are installed first. Trim and attach to the Mauerlat. All is ready. Of all the types of bathhouse roofs with two slopes, the process of installing the main rafters in this system is the simplest. At the end of the work, the evenness of both structures is checked. Next, the rope is pulled along the top of the corners and the remaining trusses are mounted relative to this landmark.

After installing all the rafters, we check the evenness of the installation and carry out a control fixation to the Mauerlat and the ridge strip. If the roof slope is more than 4.5 meters, then you need to additionally install supports so that one side holds the rafter leg and the other rests against the floor beam.

Finishing work according to plan

The roof skeleton has been assembled, all that remains is to carry out final works. First of all, we determine the location of the chimney outlet if it is not laid through a wall. We mount a metal adapter and insulate it with insulation.

Next, using a stapler, we attach the vapor barrier layer to the rafters. On top of it we stuff a sheathing of unedged boards. The pitch is selected according to the type of roofing material. For roll coverings, continuous lining, for sheet materials You can fix the boards at a distance of 15–20 cm from each other. The lathing is stuffed over the entire rafter system, with a protrusion of about 20 cm beyond the lower edge. There is no need to do more, and if the trusses turn out to be longer, then they are sawed off at the same distance.

There is no need to rush to lay the coating. First, you need to give it additional strength by sewing up the end parts. For this you will need a board. IN brick baths, stone is laid out, with lining of the gables. If you plan to use the attic space, leave space for installing a window frame.

When the structure is sewn from the gables, it will be much stronger. Now you can start next stage. Waterproofing is laid over the sheathing. In some cases, the membrane used for these purposes is laid between the rafters, under the counter-batten. This allows you to create an additional air layer for quick drying of the roof structure and additional ventilation of the bathhouse ceiling from the attic space.

Laying roofing material

Most final stage gable roof assembly. The installation principle is the same for all types of coatings. You need to start from the bottom of the cornice and gradually rise, covering the lower rows with the next layers. Make sure the installation is even so that the appearance is not spoiled by crooked lines. Having closed both slopes, we install ridge bar, securing it with self-tapping screws.

The gable roof assembly process is complete. This is the simplest option for designing a rafter system. Taking into account the tips, you can design your own reliable roof in a bathhouse that meets all technological requirements.

Gable roof for a bath - step by step construction with your own hands


Gable roof for a bathhouse. Design advantages, necessary materials and calculation of the angle of inclination. Step-by-step construction of a gable roof for a bathhouse with your own hands: assembly of rafters, sheathing, external lining.

A bathhouse is a complex engineering structure, the construction of which is feasible with your own hands, but will require engineering knowledge and time. Special attention and the roof requires calculations, since the greatest heat loss occurs through the coating - from 30 to 45%. Construction of a roof requires a balanced approach and an accurate understanding of the type, structure of the roof and the material of its covering even before construction begins.

Stages of building a roof over a bathhouse

Work on installing a roof on a bathhouse, taking into account all standards and rules, is carried out in several stages:

  1. Selecting a roofing option, covering material and supporting structure.
  2. Collecting loads, performing drawings and calculations of the supporting structure, drawing up estimates and a list of necessary materials.
  3. Purchase of materials, preparation construction site and the necessary tools.
  4. Construction.

Choosing a roof option

The choice of roof structure is influenced by the covering material, the purpose of the attic space - whether it will be heated with a residential attic or cold, as well as the level of wind and snow load in the region where construction is taking place.

Kinds pitched roofs, used in individual construction:

  1. Single-pitch. Sloping roofs with one slope are often used to cover small structures such as bathhouses when it is necessary to build quickly and inexpensively.

    A pitched roof has the simplest design and is erected very quickly.

  2. Gable. If you need a larger roof slope and want to have a full-fledged attic space, they build a more complex gable roof.

    A gable roof is more difficult to install, but it allows you to get a full-fledged attic space for storing bath accessories

  3. Hip and half-hip. Such roofs have 4 slopes - instead of gables, the ends of the house are also covered with a slope. Roofs of this type are built in climatic regions with high wind loads. A roof in which the end slopes - hips - descend to half the length of the main roofing covering is called half-hip.

    The hip roof resists strong winds well due to the installation of additional slopes instead of end gables

  4. Tent. This is a special case of a hip roof, which is built over houses that are square in plan, as well as over bases that fit into a circle.

    A hip roof is constructed in the same way as a hip roof, but does not have a ridge, since all the hips converge at one point

  5. Multi-pincer and combined. Multi-gable roofs are used to cover complex structures of L-shaped or U-shaped buildings, and at the same time they can be used in coatings different types roof shapes.

    Multi-gable roofs consist of several roofing structures combined into one whole

  6. Attic. This is a very popular type of roof for residential buildings. They happen the most different shapes, but what they have in common is the presence of a warm living space in attic space. Such roofs are also found on bathhouses.

    Device mansard roof allows you to get a full-fledged living space on the second floor

The simplest option for construction is a pitched roof. It is often used when the bathhouse is attached to the main house, and with slight slopes of the roof. When building a free-standing bathhouse, the gable roof shape is most in demand.

Roof design

Factors influencing roof design:

  • snow load on the roof, which is determined based on the geographical location of the construction area;
  • standardized heat transfer resistance, also depending on the climatic region. This parameter affects the choice of insulation thickness;
  • weight of the structure. It depends on the roofing material;
  • choice between attic and attic. Insulation of the roof above the attic affects its design and puts additional load on the rafters;
  • type of bathhouse - an attached room or a separate building: the extension can be covered with a single-pitched structure, while it is more economical to complete a separate building with a gable roof;
  • roof slope angle. His choice is influenced by the roof material, as well as the intended purpose of the roof space and the personal preferences of the owners.

Collection of loads on load-bearing roof elements

Snow and climatic regions are determined individually using maps attached to SP 50.13330.2010 “Thermal protection of buildings” SNiP 23–02–2003, updated edition. These maps are used to determine the specific snow load on the roof in winter period. The load from the weight of the coating varies from 6 kg/m2 (Ondulin) to 55 kg/m2 (ceramic and cement-sand tiles).

Having planned a warm attic over the bathhouse, the weight of the insulation, vapor barrier layer and internal lining premises - from 30 to 55 kg/m2 depending on the type of insulation and facing material. If the attic above the bathhouse is not heated, then only the weight of the under-roofing membrane is added, which can be neglected.

The weight of coniferous wood (pine, spruce, larch), from which roof structures are most often made, is determined as the product of density and volume. The density of wood is 600 kg/m3.

Table: specific snow load depending on region

Region No.1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
80 120 180 230 320 400 480 560

The region number is determined from the distribution map snow loads, which is produced by Roshydromet.

Each region of our country is assigned a number depending on the average intensity of snow load

The height of the passage under the roof slope is standardized and must be at least 1.6 m to allow periodic inspection technical condition designs.

When choosing a roof slope angle of up to 20 o, the coating can be made of metal profiled sheets, including metal tiles; with a slope of 20 to 40 o, any roofing material can be used, except for rolled bitumen-polymer roofing materials.

Table: roof angle depending on roofing material

Structural calculation of rafters

Calculation of roof structures is carried out in accordance with SP 64.13330.2011 “Wooden structures”, but you can use tables with averaged data. This method is much simpler, although the result will slightly exceed the design minimum, since the tables are designed taking into account the maximum loads from snow and the weight of the roof. To determine the cross-section of the rafters, it is enough to know the span of the building and set the distance between the rafters.

Table: length and cross-sectional size of rafters depending on the distance between them

Rafter length, mDistance between rafters, cmRafter section size, cm
until 3120 8 x 10
until 3180 9 x 10
up to 4100 8 x 16
up to 4140 8 x 18
up to 4180 9 x 18
until 6100 8 x 20
until 6140 10 x 20

When purchasing material, remember that the length of the rafters in this case is the size from support to support, that is, in fact, the rafters will be longer by the overhang of the roof eaves and trimming in the gable.

Sheathing design

The design of the lathing depends on the coating material:

  • metal tile covering on the eaves and ridge of the roof requires a continuous flooring with a width of 450 mm, the pitch of the intermediate sheathing corresponds to the transverse profile of the corrugation and is prescribed by the material manufacturer;
  • Roofing made of bituminous tiles (for example, “Shingles”), tiles, small slopes of roofing made of corrugated sheets (Euro slate Ondulin) require continuous flooring made of boards or moisture-resistant board materials (OSB, DSP).

The Code of Rules for Roofing (SNiP II-26–76) standardizes the minimum size of sheathing elements at 30x50 mm.

Execution of a set of drawings

The set of roof drawings includes:

  • roof plan;
  • installation diagrams of load-bearing elements;
  • detail drawings of each structural element;
  • attachment points;
  • section of the roof with a flag showing the layer-by-layer composition of the roof;
  • statements of material requirements;
  • general data on drawings with installation instructions and material requirements.

The most commonly used sections of a timber rafter system

When calculating the distance between rafters, it is necessary to take into account the presence of vertical structures, for example, a chimney.

Without an engineering education, it is impossible to make drawings, so individual builders draw elements by hand or print out detailed components from technical literature and specialized Internet sites. However, the best solution is to order a roofing project from companies specializing in this type of work. This way, all requirements of current standards will be met, which guarantees the durability of the roof structure.

Video: designing a gable roof

Photo gallery: drawings of a gable roof

On wiring diagram rafters indicate all dimensions in horizontal projection The sections show required dimensions, elevation marks, system elements and nodes are marked The design of the connection of elements has been worked out on the drawings of the units The assembly shows the required dimensions, layer-by-layer composition of the roof, and individual elements are marked. Based on the drawings, item-by-element statements are drawn up indicating quantity/volume/weight

Installation of a roofing system for a bathhouse

Let's look at the sequence of installing a roof for a bath using the example of a gable roof structure.

Required Tools

To build a roof you will need a set of measuring, cutting and carpentry tools:

  • tape measures of different lengths from 5 to 20 meters;
  • marker, pencil;
  • cord along the length of the skate;
  • claw hammer;
  • metal scissors;
  • roofing knife;
  • putty knife;
  • scotch;
  • hacksaw, electric saw, electric drill and screwdriver, various drills and attachments for them;
  • horizontal and vertical level;
  • rod, ruler;
  • polyurethane foam and silicone sealant.

Tools must be kept in the tool bag while working on the roof.

For the safety of work, the following is required:

  • safety belt, rope;
  • protective glasses;
  • mittens;
  • set of workwear.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gable roof

The installation of the roof begins when the attic floor beams are installed. Before starting work on the beams, running flooring is made from boards or slabs of chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, capable of withstanding the load from a person and the structure being mounted. Perform impregnation of all wooden structures roofs with a fire retardant, antiseptic and fungicide or preparation comprehensive protection from fire, rotting and fungus.

All covering elements are prepared for installation on the ground using a template. The finished trusses are lifted to the installation site and temporarily secured with boards.

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Installation of the support beam - Mauerlat. The Mauerlat, which ensures the stability of the roof and transfers the load from the roof to the walls of the house, is preferably made of dense hardwood that is resistant to rotting (oak, maple, larch). The minimum size of the beam is 100x100 mm; most often, a beam measuring 100x150 mm is used, positioning it at least 5 cm from the outer edge of the wall. Attach the beam to the wall through a gasket made of waterproofing material on the studs laid during the construction of the wall. The holes for the studs are placed evenly along the length of the beam, not aligned with the rafter attachment points. The holes for the studs are marked and drilled before the beam is lifted into the design position.

    The Mauerlat is attached to the wall with evenly spaced studs, pre-embedded in the frame

  2. Assembly of the rafter system. It is easier to assemble a structure consisting of a pair of rafter legs and a tie on the ground using a template. In this case, all trusses will have identical dimensions. True, the weight of the structure can be significant, and a crane will be required for lifting.

    Rafter trusses are easier to assemble on the ground and then lift to the roof

  3. Installation of roof trusses. First, the structures are installed at the ends of the house, temporarily securing them with mounting boards, racks and spacers. For ease of installation of subsequent elements in the ridge, a cord can be pulled between the installed trusses. Then intermediate trusses are installed. After all elements of the rafter system have been installed, they are finally secured at all points and temporary supports are removed.

    To simplify the installation of intermediate trusses, a cord can be pulled between the outer rafters

  4. Installation of a superdiffusion membrane using a counter-lattice, installation of the main lathing. Using a counter-lattice, we attach a superdiffusion membrane to the rafters. Depending on the chosen covering material, we install the sheathing - sparse or slab flooring.

    When installing a roofing pie, it is imperative to maintain a ventilated gap between the membrane and the roofing covering

  5. Covering installation. The coating material is laid from bottom to top from the left corner. The work is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make all necessary connections to vertical structures(for example, a chimney), the roof ridge is covered with a special ridge element.

    Sheets of metal tiles are attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws with a neoprene gasket

  6. Installation drainage system(if provided by the project). The drainage system protects the walls from excessive moisture. With a cornice height of up to 4 meters, its installation is not necessary, but the presence of a gutter and pipes will increase the service life of the building, and the costs will pay off handsomely. It is better to purchase a drainage system kit at the same time as purchasing the roofing material, matching the color of the roof or a contrasting color, depending on the taste of the owner. The drainage system includes:
  7. Installation of building gables, filing of cornices. In masonry buildings, the gables are usually made from wall material. In houses made of timber or logs, the gables are sewn up after installing the rafters, securing racks and purlins to the end pairs of trusses, along which they are covered with boards or metal profiles.

    The gables of bathhouses are usually covered with siding or wooden clapboard along the sheathing fixed to the end truss

Lastly, the cornices are hemmed and the soffits are installed in the eaves overhang.

Video: roof, attic and rough ceiling of the bathhouse

If you do not feel able to correctly calculate the rafter system, complete the drawings and build the roof, entrust this part of the work to professionals. If you decide to overcome difficulties on your own, remember that building a roof will take more than one week, because all work requires precision and consistency.

The final and most difficult stage in the construction of a bathhouse is the construction of the roof. Here it is important to choose the right angle of inclination, overhang length, and think over the configuration of the rafter system. Much depends on the type of roof: a gable structure is more functional, but a single-pitch structure is easier to install. Of course, you can hire specialists for this, but a roof for a bathhouse with your own hands will cost several times less.

A pitched roof is installed mainly on small bathhouses. One of the walls is made higher by 2-3 rows, which allows the floor beams to be laid at the desired angle. To reduce the load on the floors, the angle of inclination should be at least 20 degrees. In regions where there is a lot of snow, the slope is made even steeper - up to 45 degrees.

To build a pitched roof you will need:

  • durable timber with a section of 60x80mm;
  • floor beams;
  • boards 250x30 mm;
  • hydrobarrier membrane;
  • insulation;
  • roofing;
  • nails and screws;
  • hammer;
  • hacksaw;
  • antiseptic primer;
  • building level.

Step 1. Attaching the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is called load-bearing beam, laid on top of the walls around the perimeter of the bathhouse. It is designed to connect walls and rafter systems. In wooden baths, the role of the mauerlat is played by the top row of the frame, but for buildings made of bricks or blocks it must be installed separately. You can secure the beams to the wall using steel wire, anchor bolts or construction studs. The third option is considered the most convenient for pitched roofs.

Construction studs are embedded into the upper rows of the masonry at a distance of 60-70 cm. This must be done carefully so as not to stain the threads with mortar. The threaded part should rise above the Mauerlat by about 3 cm, and the bottom should be buried 45 cm into the wall. Ruberoid is cut into strips along the width of the wall and laid on top, pricked onto studs. Then the beam is also placed on the points and hit with a hammer so that marks remain. Drill holes along the marks, put the beam on the studs and tighten the nuts onto the threads.

Step 2. Installation of ceiling beams

Grooves for the floor beams are cut out in the Mauerlat every 60-70 cm. After laying the beams, their ends should protrude beyond external walls baths at least 30 cm. The ceilings, which are also rafters, are attached to the Mauerlat with nails or using wire. During installation, you should carefully ensure that the beams lie in the same plane. Upon completion of the work, the wooden elements are primed with an antiseptic composition.

Step 3. Insulation and waterproofing of the roof

The floor beams are lined with boards from below, and then the roofing is continued. A vapor barrier film is attached to the rafters, laying the material overlapping and connecting the joints with tape. The next layer is thermal insulation. Slab insulation is more convenient to use, but you can also use roll insulation. Insulating material is tightly laid between the rafters, all gaps and holes are foamed, and a water barrier is secured on top. It is also laid overlapping, the seams are sealed with tape along the entire length.

Step 4. Roof installation

The beams and boards for sheathing are treated with an antiseptic and dried. Next, the beams are placed on the rafters directly through the waterproofing film, and then the resulting frame is sheathed with boards. Depending on the type of roof, the gaps between the boards can be of different widths - from 1 to 15 cm. When the sheathing is ready, you can begin installing the finishing coating - slate, corrugated sheets, tiles or others. Sheet roofing secured using self-tapping screws with special gaskets that prevent moisture from penetrating through the holes.

Construction of a gable roof

For a spacious bathhouse, a gable roof is more suitable. Can be stored and dried in the attic bath brooms, which is also very convenient. The rafter system of a gable roof is assembled in several stages, and the main elements are made on the ground.

During the construction of the roof you will need:


Step 1: Installing Ceiling Beams

In the mauerlat or upper crown of the log house, grooves are cut for the ceiling beams. The distance between the grooves is 1 m, the depth of the cutouts is about 7-9 cm. The beams, treated with an antiseptic and dried, are inserted into the grooves on the edge and secured with nails. It is possible to make ceilings with a projection beyond the walls, but then additional sealing will be required in the areas adjacent to the Mauerlat.

Step 2. Assembling trusses

A gable roof is formed by several identical triangular structures called trusses. Each truss consists of two beams of the same length - rafter legs, a base and a lintel - a crossbar. The truss elements are fastened together with special screws. For the base and rafter legs, a 50x100 mm edged board is used; in this case, the length of the rafters is 280 cm, and the length of the base is 50-60 cm longer.

The edges of the boards are cut at an angle of 40-45 degrees, holes are drilled for screws at the joints and the boards are firmly fastened together. Stepping back about half a meter from the junction of the rafters, a groove for the crossbar is cut out in the beam. Rectangular cuts are also made at the ends of the crossbar, with the help of which the jumper is tightly inserted into the rafter legs. Screws are tightened in the places where the crossbar meets the beam. The rest of the farms are collected in the same way.

The two trusses that will be located above the side walls should be sheathed immediately, and it will be more convenient to do this on the ground. A 50x50 mm beam is nailed to the truss in the form of horizontal jumpers every 30-40 cm, the ends are cut at an angle. Additionally, the structure is strengthened with two bars diagonally. Now they sheathe the sheathing with boards vertically, leaving an allowance of 2.5 cm from the bottom edge. You can do the opposite: the frame beams are nailed vertically, and the sheathing boards are fastened horizontally. It is necessary to make a door in the casing of the second truss.

Step 3. Installation of trusses

The finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the ceiling beams. First, they are secured with temporary timber spacers, aligned vertically. The outer trusses are installed first: several are drilled into the base through holes and screw the rafters to the mauerlat. To more conveniently control the vertical location of the truss, you need to attach a plumb line to the crossbar. After installation of the structure, it is additionally strengthened with jibs - strong beams, one end of which rests against the load-bearing beam on the wall, and the other against the rafters at the level of the crossbar.

After installing and strengthening the outer rafters, proceed to the remaining trusses. They are leveled and fixed with temporary spacers; the distance between adjacent rafters is 1 m. When all parts of the rafter system are installed, they are connected by a canopy. To do this, use 2 long boards, which are nailed to the beams at the very top on both sides of the roof.

Step 4. Installation of the sheathing

For sheathing, it is advisable to take boards of such length that they completely cover the roof and protrude 20 cm beyond the edges of the truss. If you use short boards and join them on the rafters, the strength of the roof will be reduced. The width of the gaps between the boards depends on the type of roofing and can range from 1 to 50 cm. The boards are nailed to the rafters. At the location of the chimney, a hole of appropriate parameters is made and a continuous sheathing is made around it. Next, a waterproofing membrane is laid: the film is stapled to the boards, laying strips of material with an overlap of 5-10 cm. Around the hole for the chimney, the edges of the film should hang slightly inward.

Step 5. Installation of roofing

50x50 mm bars for the counter-lattice are nailed onto the film on top. They are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic and dried well. The covering is laid on the counter-lattice, starting from the cornice. For a bathhouse, you can use any type of roofing - from soft tiles to corrugated sheets. The roofing material is attached according to the instructions, making allowances for the overhangs. For the chimney, holes are cut in the covering, and after installation outer pipe seal the joints with bitumen mastic or special glue and cover with an apron.

Step 6. Thermal insulation of the bathhouse roof

After installing the roof covering, you should carefully insulate the roof from the inside. Since the rafters have already been primed with an antiseptic, it is not necessary to treat them again. Thermal insulation slabs are laid as tightly as possible between the beams, trying not to compress or bend the edges of the material too much. When deformed, the properties of the insulation are noticeably reduced. It is recommended to blow out the gaps and seams between the slabs and at the corners of the rafters with foam.

Special attention should be paid to the insulation of gables. First, they are covered from the inside with a waterproofing film, then the sheathing beams are attached. Can be used for these purposes and aluminum profiles. The next layer is insulation, and then a vapor barrier is attached. At the joints of slopes and gables, a vapor barrier film is laid with an overlap and taped. If necessary, the inner surface of the roof can be sheathed with clapboard, regular boards or plywood.

Video - Do-it-yourself roof for a bathhouse