Marmoleum flooring. Marmoleum as a yet unknown floor covering Marmoleum maximum installation size

Marmoleum. Today this is a new step in interior design. This material is intended for laying on the floor. The technology is just developing, but there is no doubt that it will soon replace conventional linoleum and laminate. The features and advantages of this material include:

Marmoleum is very cheap due to the materials it is made from. So it’s simply not profitable to counterfeit a product. You can also note its environmental friendliness, which is the most important quality for a “homemade” material.
This type of coating is absolutely non-toxic and even has an antibacterial effect. Few materials can boast of this.
In terms of price, marmoleum will cost you 1/3 cheaper than laminate - the cheapest of floor coverings.
Due to the properties of the material, you do not need to carry out additional thermal insulation of the floor. It also does not fade, does not swell or bend after getting wet. Paint doesn't even stick to it, and it can easily withstand heavy loads.
Marmoleum will last you about 20 years. It does not burn or become electrified. Can be painted any color and given different textures. Today you can find more than 100 colors on sale and about 2000 shades to order.
Well, one of important qualities– ease of installation.

Weak sides

Like any thing, marmoleum also has its disadvantages:
The rolled type of marmoleum can be rolled only once and with the base facing up. When you lay it, be careful, because it has rather fragile edges.
After a certain period of time, the material tends to blur and harden. This will be beneficial for the floor, because you won’t have to worry too much about seams. But look for manufacturers with a reputation and guarantee, since if the material has been stored in a warehouse for a long time or transported carelessly, the quality is greatly reduced.
Again, a plus for flooring can turn into a minus during transportation. Good elasticity is maintained along the entire length of the marmoleum, so there is no need to worry too much about leveling the floor, the surface will turn out even. The material is able to cover irregularities even up to a third of its own thickness. These qualities also do not allow it to be used on walls and ceilings - due to its heavy weight and elasticity, it will simply sag.
Another disadvantage of this coating is the uneven edges after cutting. Therefore, they cut the material only in those places where it will later hide, for example, under the baseboard. You can create a pattern only from standard tiles.

Specifications

As mentioned above, marmoleum is very durable and can withstand up to 160 kg/sq. cm. The material has a thickness of 2-4 mm and weighs from 2.6 to 3.4 kg/kV. m.

There are three classes:

41-43 - this type is the most expensive and is used in appropriate premises. Decorative coating reaches a thickness of 3 mm and is designed for 100 thousand attacks daily for 5 years. It can even be used in places such as airports.
31-33 – more stable under static pressure. Not as well suited for alternating loads as the previous one. The thickness of the top layer is up to 2.5 mm.
21-23 – this type is intended for general use. It can be used in most types of rooms in your home. It is slightly thinner and cheaper.

From these data we conclude that brand 21-23 is sufficient for a home because it is the cheapest, but does not sacrifice quality to other brands, it simply withstands less load. Also, its small thickness becomes a plus at home, due to long static loads (cabinet legs), which will not leave their mark so noticeably.

You can find this material on sale:

In the form of rolls 2 meters wide. Keep in mind that rolled marmoleum is rolled only once. Working with it in an apartment is very inconvenient and requires a team of specialists and equipment.
Square tiles 50x50 and 30x30 cm. They are laid with glue.
Rectangular tiles 90x30 cm. Installation is similar.

Laying process

If you are going to use tools for laminate, then be careful, because marmoleum is a fragile material at the edges. It's not easy to cut or trim edges, so have a rubber mallet and hook clamp handy.

The qualities of the material allow it to be laid on top of the old coating. But if it has serious unevenness, or “walks,” then it is better to remove it and place the marmoleum on bare concrete. At the same time, there is no need to pre-insulate the floor with any materials - marmoleum itself is quite enough.

Also put on the old coating better than tiles using glue. Since the panels will fit poorly when adjusted.

The basis

When installing the coating on concrete, take care of its smooth surface. It is not necessary to level it perfectly, but sand large protrusions with a machine and fill in the depressions with mortar or putty. You can, of course, lay a plastic laminate pillow under the marmoleum, but it will cost more. Remove dust using a vacuum cleaner.

Sizing

To begin, lay tiles or sheets of marmoleum on the floor of your room. At the same time, add a gap of 10-15 mm from the wall in all places. This important point, and it is needed to avoid bending of the future coating due to changes in temperature and humidity. From above these gaps will be closed with a plinth. We cut off the entire last row of tiles (sheets) with a jigsaw.

Laying

Stages of work when laying on a concrete screed.

In a rectangular room, start from the short side. By placing a strip wrapped in film close to it to avoid gluing. Now apply the snake to the area under the tile. Use special glue or construction silicone. Place the marmoleum tile and move it tightly against the bar.

We wait for the glue to dry according to the instructions in the manufacturer's instructions.

Seams

Don't panic if the edge of a tile cracks. This is easy to fix later. In this case, use a compound for linoleum. After installing all the elements, rate required amount facilities.

You can also experiment with decorative styling. To do this, use matches with cut off heads. Insert two at each end, between the marmolium tiles. After work, seal all seams.

Attention! Do not allow mechanical impact on the material before installation, do not throw it or bend it. It will all end in cracks.

Laying, flooring natural linoleum Forbo Marmoleum

Premises requirements
Before laying natural linoleum, the room temperature must be stable for at least 48 hours. The air temperature in the room should not fall below 17°C. The substrate temperature should exceed 14°C and the relative humidity should not exceed 75%.
Preliminary preparation of natural linoleum for installation
Before laying, marmoleum rolls must be acclimatized in the room for 24 hours, and the rolls must be placed in a vertical position.
Labels on prepared rolls must be easy to read so that the article, color, roll and batch numbers can be controlled. If several rolls of the same color are stacked in a room, you need to make sure that all these rolls are from the same batch (to avoid different colors).
Foundation requirements:
Flooring natural linoleum begins with preparing the base. The base for marmoleum flooring should be:

Smooth and monolithic (without lumps, dimples, sagging, drops and joints), otherwise all the unevenness of the base will appear on the surface of the marmoleum after installation. And during use in uneven places, the marmoleum will be rubbed;

The base must be dry (permissible base moisture is no more than 2%, measured by the carbide method);

Durable (not lower than 300 kg/cm2);

The substrate must be clean (no traces of dirt, oil, paint or grease).
Adhesive for laying natural linoleum
For laying natural linoleum, it is recommended to use exclusively water-dispersed adhesives specially designed for laying natural linoleum Marmoleum, namely - Forbo 418 glue.
characterized by exceptionally high adhesive force (at least 3 N/mm2), as well as high initial adhesive force. Moreover, this glue has what is called “moisture holding power.” This property is one of the main properties for adhesives intended for natural linoleum. The fact is that, while still wet, 418 glue develops such an adhesive force that will either keep the coating from shrinking completely or radically reduce the shrinkage of the coating.
It is not recommended to use two-component products for laying natural linoleum. polyurethane adhesives, since they do not create an initial adhesive force. This means that you will not be able to completely remove bubbles from under the marmoleum during the polymerization period of the glue. After polyurethane glue reacts, it will be impossible to remove the bubbles remaining under the coating.
Preparation of natural linoleum (cutting for premises)

Before laying, rolls of marmoleum must be rewound with the front side inward - this will significantly reduce the amount of shrinkage!

It is necessary to unwind the roll along long wall premises, cut off, leaving a margin of 10 cm on each side;

Using a trimmer, trim the edge of the linoleum sheet on both sides, cutting inward to prevent “picking”;

Push the marmoleum sheet against the wall as tightly as possible, making sure that the 10 cm margin is evenly distributed on both sides;

Set the length of the long marker to 10 mm greater than the obtained maximum distance between the wall and the covering sheet;

Holding a long marker, if possible perpendicular to the coating, mark the outline of the wall on the coating, using a needle as a marker;

Now we cut the material according to the received mark, using a hook blade, cutting inwards;

We move the covering tightly to the wall - the configuration of the wall and the contour of the covering should match;

Draw a line (edge) on the base with a pencil, using the free edge of the marmoleum sheet (opposite from the wall) as a ruler;

On the base and on the marmoleum sheet, apply a mark (short transverse line) with a pencil, which will fix the position of the sheet;

Slide the marmoleum sheet along the drawn edge of the line until the remaining 10 cm margin lies loosely on the base;

Install a long marker (between the roller stop and the needle) slightly less than the distance (shift) between the marks on the coating and on the base - to compensate for shrinkage;

Using a marker installed in this way, apply the outline of the wall to the coating, then remove the excess along the resulting outline using a hook blade, cutting inward;

Repeat the above process for the opposite side;
Now sweep or vacuum the base, and place the prepared marmoleum sheet in its place;

If it is necessary to lay two sheets of natural linoleum or more in a room, each subsequent sheet is laid in exactly the same way, after which it is cut first along the long side and then from the ends;

In order to ensure accurate marking of the seams, it is first necessary to place the sheets overlapping: 1.5–2 cm.
How to apply glue for laying marmoleum?
After opening the can, the glue should be thoroughly mixed and applied to the base using a TKV/B1 notched trowel. Glue consumption when gluing natural linoleum is about 450 g per 1 square meter. m.
Using circular movements, carefully and evenly apply glue to the entire surface of the base. In this case, you only need to use one side of the spatula, the other should remain clean. Excess glue must be collected with a spatula back into the jar and closed.
After applying glue to the base, there is no need to withstand the “drying time”, since the base absorbs moisture, and natural linoleum itself is a moisture-permeable coating.
Bonding natural linoleum Marmoleum
After you have cut the marmoleum into sheets in accordance with the room, it can be glued.
Holding the short sides of the sheets, the prepared marmoleum sheets are simultaneously wrapped with the base upward, freeing up 1 half of the base area for applying glue.
It is impossible to roll prepared sheets, as this will lead to deformation of the coating and the appearance of bubbles.

On the base, along the folded edge, draw a boundary for applying glue with a pencil;

Using an appropriate notched trowel (TKV/B1), apply glue to the base, strictly observing the previously marked glue boundary;

Place the first part of marmoleum on the glue and roll it;

After one side of the linoleum strip has been laid on adhesive layer and rolled, it is necessary to wrap the remaining un-glued edge of the marmoleum and carefully apply glue to the base, observing the border. If glue is repeatedly applied to the same place, it will appear through the coating in the form of a stain;

Roll the coating across the roll to expel the air trapped under the coating along the shortest path, only then roll along the roll.

After 15 minutes, you need to re-roll the natural linoleum to achieve final and reliable adhesion of the linoleum and the base;

After laying all the strips of natural linoleum, it is necessary to trim the seams. Using a short comb marking tool, set the seam width.

When working with Marmoleumom Forbo you can:

for rooms where there is no danger of a significant amount of water appearing on the coating, leave a tight seam without welding - the transverse expansion of linoleum makes such a seam exceptionally dense and reliably protects it from the penetration of small amounts of water;
for rooms where the likelihood of water appearing on the coating is very significant, it is necessary to weld the seams, for this it is necessary:

Place the foot of the comb marking machine under the previously left “overlap”, rest your heel on the edge of the glued sheet of covering and, moving the comb marking tool along the edge of the covering, mark on the upper sheet the exact contours of the edge of the lower sheet of marmoleum;

Trim the edge along the mark using a hook blade, also cut everything inward;

Place the cut edge of the coating into the glue, pressing carefully;

Remove any glue that gets on the coating using a clean damp rag;

Wash the instrument from glue with cold water.

Features of gluing natural linoleum
After you apply the glue, you can carefully lay the marmoleum. Natural linoleum laid on glue must be thoroughly rubbed in using a board covered with a piece of carpet; the air from under the linoleum is squeezed out along the shortest path - in the transverse direction.
After this, it is strongly recommended to roll the entire surface of the marmolema with heavy rolling rollers weighing 50-70 kg. First, the coating is rolled in the transverse direction, removing air from under the coating, and then in the longitudinal direction. Particular care should be taken to roll the coating in the area of the seams.

General recommendations for laying natural linoleum
If several rolls of the same article are stacked in a room, you should strive to stack the rolls in sequence with increasing roll numbers.
Sheets of natural linoleum should be laid in one direction; on back side Marmoleum has arrows indicating this direction.
Due to the properties of natural linoleum, when laid in a wet adhesive layer, it shrinks in the longitudinal direction (1 mm/1 linear m), it is necessary to rewind the rolls with the front side inward before laying - this will significantly reduce the amount of shrinkage.
Due to the property of natural linoleum, when laid in a wet adhesive layer, it expands somewhat in the transverse direction, it is necessary to trim the marmoleum, slightly tilting the knife so that the linoleum sheets laid next to each other touch with their sharp upper edges. When natural linoleum expands, the sharp edges touch and even slightly wrinkle, forming a tight seam. This will prevent the linoleum from being squeezed out in the area of the seams - the so-called “picking”, which would occur if the linoleum sheets rested against each other throughout the entire thickness of the coating.

Welding seams (joints) of natural linoleum
To ensure complete waterproofness of the natural floor covering, it is necessary to weld the marmoleum sheets using a special welding cord designed for natural linoleum. Please note that using a welding cord of a contrasting color on the marmoleum coating you can create various designs.
Work on welding natural linoleum must be carried out after complete polymerization of the glue, preferably the next day or a few hours after flooring. If you start welding immediately after laying the coating, then the glue boiling under the influence of hot air and steam emissions from the seam will not allow the marmoleum joints to be welded reliably.
Unlike welding PVC coatings, it would be more correct to apply the term “soldering” to natural linoleum, since hot air is not able to melt a coating made from wood flour.
When “welding” natural linoleum, a cord consisting of a low-melting polymer melts, penetrates the pores of the marmoleum and, when solidified, seals the seam.
For high-quality “welding” of natural linoleum, you must use only professional tool: hair dryer with stepwise air temperature control, special knives and devices.

Make a “groove” under the seam using a cutting knife - a Grover;

The depth of the “groove” should be almost the entire depth of the marmoleum, up to the jute base, which cannot be damaged;

Then you need to thoroughly vacuum the seam area;

Set the hair dryer temperature to about 350°C, put on a cast nozzle with a diameter of 5 mm and turn on the hair dryer;

Wait until the nozzle heats up to the required temperature;

We take a piece of welding cord a little more than half the length of the seam and insert it into the nozzle, immediately press the end of the cord into the groove of the seam and, holding it in this position for about a second, begin to move the hair dryer along the seam (at the same, low speed);

The heel of the nozzle should always be parallel to the surface during movement;

It is necessary to select the correct speed of the hair dryer, making sure that the cord actually melts, contacting the coating material; with the correct welding process, two paths of tiny beads from the material of the welding cord are formed on the sides of the seam;

Immediately after finishing welding, while the cord is hot, using a crescent knife and an attachment for preliminary cutting of the cord, remove the excess cord “roughly”;

Repeat the welding, starting from the opposite wall, and overlap the cord by 20 cm onto the previously welded and trimmed cord;

Once the temperature of the cord is equal to the temperature of the coating, it is necessary to completely remove the excess cord, while keeping the crescent knife as parallel to the floor surface as possible.
If you cut the fused cord in one pass, when the cord is still hot, then as a result, after the cord cools, a groove will remain - the cord shrinks when cooled. Such negligence can lead to significant deterioration appearance laid covering, since dirt and dust will collect in the grooves.

When creating designs in the form of friezes (“frames”), it is necessary to cut strips natural linoleum only along the roll, but not across it. Natural linoleum, being rolled up, has been subjected to prolonged exposure to significant bending forces and is in a tense state. By cutting strips across the roll, it is impossible to compensate for this stress with adhesive force (due to the small width of the strip); as a result, the coating strips will take on a characteristic “slab” shape. The smaller the width of the strip, the more noticeable this effect will be. Most often, such a “croaker” cannot be corrected by pressing down and placing heavy objects on such areas.
THEREFORE, when creating friezes you must adhere to the following rules:
The strips are always laid in one direction, in accordance with the arrow indicating the direction;
The strips of marmoleum from which the frieze is formed are joined only diagonally, at an angle of 45° - this will evenly distribute the stress and prevent tears and/or “picking” at the joint points.
Drying chamber deflection
The term “deflection of the drying chamber” is understood as a factor associated with the production technology of natural linoleum, namely the preservation on the linoleum sheet of a stable transverse “wave” 10-12 cm wide of the trace from the crossbar used to tension the sheet of natural linoleum when the marmoleum is ripening in drying chamber.
As a rule, it is located in the middle of the roll - at a distance of 15-16 meters from the beginning of the roll. Unfortunately, due to the stress in this area, installing the “drying chamber deflection” is fraught with some difficulties. For reliable gluing of such a section, the reliable adhesive force inherent in adhesives for natural linoleum is often not enough. Therefore, if possible, it is recommended not to use this area if the size of the premises, the design of the coating pattern and the supply of linoleum allow it.

It’s strange, but the further science advances in terms of creating cheap artificial materials, the more often people strive to use natural materials in decorating their homes. Not everyone can afford to completely decorate an apartment or house with natural building materials, but you still want to bring at least something into your home.

One of the available natural materials is marmoleum, which is also called “natural linoleum”. Its cost is approximately 2 - 3 times higher than the cost of a high-quality one, but it is quite affordable for most people.

Do not think that marmoleum is a super-modern material. Its prototype was invented back in the 16th century. And now the production process has simply been improved, thanks to the capabilities of modern technology.

Marmoleum - what is it?

Let's start with the fact that only natural ingredients are used in the production of the material:

wood flour;
linseed oil;
coniferous tree resins;
natural coloring pigments.

Thanks to the variety of natural dyes, manufacturers managed to create a material in such a wide range of colors that the decoration of each interior can be made exclusive.

The color pattern of marmoleum is carried out over the entire thickness of the material, so even with some wear it retains its decorative effect.

The cost of the material is partly explained by the duration of the production process:

the linoleum mass mixed from natural products must mature for a week at a certain temperature;
after that, pigments are added to it and pressed on special machines;
then the layer is cut into strips of a given width and laid on a jute base;
the resulting dense texture matures for another two weeks in the drying chamber, where it turns into marmoleum;
the last stage is the creation of a protective surface layer of polymers, which increases the wear resistance of the coating (you can purchase material without this layer, it will be 100% natural, but it must be constantly rubbed with special mastics).

Quality of material and its types

Like many floor coverings, marmoleum is divided into classes based on quality and durability:

22 - 23 class - the thickness of the pattern is about 2 mm, the coating is used for laying in general purpose(including residential);
31-32 class – pattern thickness is 2.5 mm, the coating can withstand significant loads and has industrial applications;
41 – 43 class – pattern thickness is at least 3 mm, the coating is used in rooms with high traffic (airports, hotels).

The higher the class of coverage, the higher its price. Therefore, when buying marmoleum for your home, you should not overpay for quality; the thinnest and cheapest material is quite suitable here.

Depending on the form in which it is released, marmoleum is divided into:

roll 200 cm wide;
square tiles measuring 30*30 and 50*50 cm based on HDF board;
slabs rectangular shape dimensions 90*30 cm.

For home use buy more often tile material, which is less susceptible to damage, both during transportation and during installation.

Advantages and disadvantages of marmoleum

There are disadvantages, like any other, but they are few:

There are many advantages:

The material is environmentally friendly, making it possible to use it even in medical and children's institutions;
, which is given to it by the resin of coniferous trees;
Hypoallergenic for both people and pets;
Large selection of colors and shades, giving ample opportunities design;
Uncomplicated and quick installation coatings;
Possibility of reuse with careful dismantling of tile coverings;
High, unlike linoleum, resistance to mechanical damage and chemicals;
Marmoleum is well tolerated high temperatures, therefore can be used as a topcoat for.

To begin with, it is worth noting that the material is not recommended for installing floors in damp or cold rooms.

The best conditions for its operation are: humidity not more than 60% and temperature not lower than 18 degrees. Therefore, bathrooms are contraindicated, where the coating can become deformed and unheated premises(summer houses and loggias).

The material is good for installing floors in children's rooms, bedrooms, living rooms, and office spaces.

Preparation for installation

First you need to carefully examine the purchased material in daylight. If you find defects after installation, you will no longer be accepted for quality claims.

Before starting work, packages of material are stored for 2-3 days in the room where it will be installed, laid on a flat surface.

The room must be dry and clean, all concrete and plastering work, as well as installation of windows and doors.

The subfloor must be level, dry and durable. If there are irregularities, they must be eliminated using a self-leveling floor or a dry screed. The deviation of the surface from the horizontal can be no more than 2 mm in either direction per 2 m.

Humidity concrete base cannot exceed 2%.

Can be used as plastic film 0.2 mm thick. The edges of the film should be placed on the walls by 5 cm, and overlap at the seams by at least 20 cm.

For better sound insulation and cutting off impact noise, a special substrate made of foamed polyethylene with a density of at least 30 kg per cubic meter must be laid on top of the waterproofing. m and thickness 2 mm.

If you have chosen roll material, then its installation is practically no different from. The only limitation is to avoid bending the material too much, it may crack.

To lay the tiles you will need:

roulette;
pencil for marking;
or ;
wedges 1 - 1.5 cm thick;
wooden blocks;
hammer.

Determine the floor pattern and the direction of laying the tiles in advance. Carefully examine the places where pipes pass, the location of thresholds, and wall projections and decide on the most rational placement of tiles in these places.

Technology:

The gap between the wall and the first panel should be at least 1 -1.5 cm, which will protect the floor from deformation due to temperature expansion. To set this gap, prepared wedges are used. The first panel is laid with a ridge against the wall, the rest are joined at their ends until the end of the row. You need to correct the position of the panel by gently tapping the gasket with a hammer. wooden block. This precaution will help avoid damage to the material.
The beginning of the second row is the cutting of the last slab of the first row. It is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the first row, but the lock is not latched, leaving the panel at an angle. The tilt is provided by prepared bars. All panels are sequentially joined together at their ends, leaving them at an angle. And only when the entire row is ready, the bars are removed and, by gently pressing, the second row is snapped into place with the first along the longitudinal joint.
All subsequent rows are mounted in the same way.
After laying several rows, if the distance between the marmoleum and the wall becomes less than 1 cm, the position of the coating is adjusted.
If the width of the last row is less than the width of the tile, then the material is cut to width with a jigsaw.
Minimum clearances must also be maintained near the pipes. Upon completion of the work, they are covered with special overlays.
They are attached only to the wall, since the coating should not be fixed motionless. The width of the plinth should cover the installation gap between the floor and the wall.
If the edge of any panel crumbles a little during installation, then after completion of the work all such defects are repaired with linoleum compound; it is only important to choose the right color.

Caring for the coating is simple:

According to consumer reviews, for some time after laying the coating in the room, an oily smell may be felt, which disappears over time. You need to be prepared for this and not be afraid - marmoleum does not emit any harmful substances.

It was also noted that wood saws with a pitch of 2.5 mm allow you to cut slab material almost perfectly - without chips or burrs.

When laying marmoleum in the kitchen (for greater sealing of the coating), you can use a sealant to treat the seams, the excess of which can be easily removed 10 - 15 minutes after application.

Cleaning, updating and restoration of natural linoleum

Marmoleum is not only beautiful, but also environmentally friendly flooring wear-resistant. Like any material, natural linoleum requires care.

To extend the service life of the coating, restore shine and original appearance, it is recommended to carry out a general cleaning of the marmoleum every 1-2 years (depending on the intensity of use of the coating).

Below we clearly demonstrate the “restoration” of the appearance of natural linoleum - marmoleum, at one of Our facilities.

Marmoleum was intensively used in the corridors of the institute for 2 years and after this time we updated it. We want to show you step by step the entire process of updating natural linoleum:

So, in photo 1 (below) you see what the marmoleum looked like after 2 years of intensive use.

Rice. 1
We begin the process of updating/restoring marmoleum:

Step 1. Cleaning (Fig. 2).

On the most contaminated areas of the floor (dark streaks, stubborn dirt), rub diluted Forbo 891 cleaner (3 caps per 2 liters of water) and leave for 15 minutes, allowing it to dissolve dirt particles for easier cleaning.

After 15 minutes, wash the entire floor with water adding Forbo 891 cleaner in a lower concentration (1:100 or 1 cap per 2 liters of water).

Step 2. Wash the floor thoroughly with regular clean water to remove any remaining cleaner and dirt (wash twice).

Rice. 2

Step 3. On a clean, dry floor, apply the first layer of Forbo 898 mastic (it can be matte/glossy), in this case glossy mastic was used. (mastic is applied in 2 layers).

We distribute the mastic over the entire surface using a lint-free cloth, or (as in this case), it is processed big square floor using a special mop-polisher. Let the floor dry completely before applying a second coat of mastic. Important: when distributing the mastic, rub it in a circular motion and do not allow the mastic to accumulate (whitish spots or streaks).

Rice. 3. Mastic is applied in 1 layer.
Step 4. After the first layer has completely dried (about 30 minutes), repeat step 3 and apply a second layer of mastic.

Rice. 4. Mastic is applied in 2 layers.
Step 5. Allow the floor to dry completely (at least 30 minutes). You should refrain from walking on the polished floor until it is completely dry.

Rice. 5. Result. (On the left - it was, on the right - the Updated Marmoleum).
We offer A complex approach in working with floor coverings, including installation, dismantling and further care of floor coverings.

Here you can find a line of products for the protection, care and restoration of natural linoleum-marmoleum, and get advice on the care of any other type of floor covering.

We are glad to be of service to you.

In one of the previous materials we already considered the features of such finishing material like marmoleum and clarified all its advantages and disadvantages. Today we would like to introduce the reader to the procedure for laying the presented floor covering and reveal the nuances of the work.

Preparation for work

As mentioned earlier, marmoleum in its visual characteristics is identical to ordinary linoleum, but unlike it, it is produced not only in the form of rolls, but is also made in the form of tiles (PVC type) or panels with lock connection(similar to laminate). In view of this, laying marmoleum with your own hands is somewhat different depending on the material used.

Foundation preparation process

Depends on material basic basis. So, if you plan to lay marmoleum on wooden surfaces, then you should first make sure mechanical strength bases (damaged floorboards, cracks, differences are not allowed). And after that, make the final leveling of the floor by covering it with OSB panels or sheets of plywood.

When you plan to lay marmoleum on a concrete floor, you should make sure there are no potholes, cracks, chips and, if necessary, level the base using cement-sand mortar or a self-leveling mixture.

In addition to the procedure for preparing the foundation for initial stage It is advisable to mark and cut the material. To do this, panels or tiles must be laid out in the place of intended installation and control points must be marked.

When performing these operations, it is necessary to take into account certain features:

Marmoleum belongs to the group of natural finishing materials, which is why it has the ability to change linear dimensions when temperatures change. That is, when laying it, compensation gaps should be provided between the material and the wall (10 - 15 mm), which will subsequently be covered with a finishing plinth.

Mechanical processing of marmoleum (cutting) is associated with certain difficulties, which is why during the work it is desirable to minimize the number of cuts as much as possible and place them in visually hidden places.

Marmoleum laying technology

Depending on the type of material used (rolls, tiles or panels), the method of laying the material also varies.

Rolled marmoleum is laid by analogy with linoleum, however, unlike its synthetic analogue, marmoleum is not allowed to be rolled more than once, and this can only be done front part up. This circumstance is associated with the fragility of the finish, in particular its end zones. That is, the material is simply rolled out indoors and trimmed around the perimeter, after which the mature marmoleum is pressed to the floor using baseboards and decorative thresholds.

Marmoleum in the form of tiles (50x50cm, 30x30cm) can be laid using two methods: with or without pattern selection. Moreover, in the first case, the installation of finishing material should begin from the middle of the room, gradually moving to its edges. Whereas in the second option (for rooms of a standard shape), it is best to start laying from the wall, with the smallest dimensions.

The work algorithm itself involves performing the following actions:

In the place where the first row is laid (in the area of the wall), a basic rail - beacon (10 - 15 mm thick) is installed;
A specialized adhesive composition is applied (in the form of a snake) to the reverse side of the finishing material;
The tile is compared with the beacon strip and at the same time pressed against the base;
All tiles of the first row are laid in an identical manner, after which the whole process is repeated again (until the work is completely completed);
After drying adhesive composition joint voids can be filled with special grout of the appropriate color shade.

Panel marmoleum is laid in a similar way to standard laminate. However, unlike the specified material, joining marmoleum panels is more complex, which is associated with its flexibility and fragility. Therefore, adjacent elements should be connected at a strictly defined angle, which ensures the highest quality engagement of the floorboards.

To ensure a given angle of inclination, it is best to use wooden templates with an oblique cut (the angle of inclination of which will allow the marmoleum panels to be placed under the most optimal angle during installation).

Such equipment is placed under the free edge of the trim and fixed in the groove of the previous row. Well, in order for the adjacent panel to close, the block is simply removed and the marmoleum takes the desired position.

To ensure that the installation of natural floor finishes does not cause any particular difficulties, it is advisable to adhere to some recommendations during the work process:

Tapping the marmoleum (for high-quality joining) must be done through special spacers and using rubber hammers.
To cut marmoleum, it is best to use a hacksaw or a jigsaw with an appropriate file (fine tooth, reverse direction).
Marmoleum should be purchased only from specialized shopping centers guaranteeing the originality of the product.
In order to ensure a good fit of the material from the base bases, it is necessary to remove all dust and construction garbage using a vacuum cleaner.