Unheated vestibule in a private house. A vestibule in a house - why is it needed and how to properly plan and make it at the entrance
Features of the vestibule layout
There are no separate standards for the design of vestibules. However, there are rules that also regulate the arrangement of this space.
It is advisable to locate the entrance to the house, and along with it the vestibule, taking into account the prevailing wind directions in the area. A door on the leeward side will make the house a little warmer, because gusts of wind will not blow into it.
In this case, the vestibule can be built into the main volume of the building or attached to it in the form of a protruding part (risalit), where a staircase can also be located. Entrance door must necessarily open outward: this improves its resistance to burglary, increases the free space in the vestibule, and ensures safer evacuation in case of fire.
It is not necessary to organize natural lighting; artificial lighting is sufficient. But in interior door glazing can be provided: this will increase both illumination and improve the visual perception of space. The floor covering must be hard and non-slippery (including when wet). When installing dirt collection grates, they should be installed flush with the top floor covering, without a protruding threshold. This guarantees safer travel. Finally, the vestibule area is often lowered two or three steps below the level of the first floor, which further helps to retain the cold in this room.
- Most often, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house.
- A translucent structure, for example made of glass, can also serve as a vestibule.
- In small old houses, for example in adobe, they often did summer kitchen- essentially the same vestibule, insulating the residential part of the house from the cold.
- The construction of a vestibule in the main volume of the house, with reasonable planning, can help in zoning the space
- If the vestibule is small, then the door should be installed so that it opens to the street.
- It is better to heat the vestibule autonomously - using a “warm floor” system or installed above external door fan heater.
- The vestibule, lowered 2-3 steps below the level of living quarters, better retains the cold.
- Fencing off a small hallway by turning it into a vestibule is easy and inexpensive, and the resulting buffer will allow you to save on heating costs.
- Two rugs - with a large cell and hard pile - will best clean shoes
Which vestibule to build – heated or not?
The question of the necessity and possibility of heating the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend drawing a contour here common system heating to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.
However, according to building regulations, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant. And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional heating systems: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. The very essence of the vestibule, why it is needed in the first place, is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.
It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, it is a cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles. Air will also benefit thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow. It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (i.5~5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.
Thermal insulation of vestibule
The usefulness of the vestibule as a constructive temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities. External wall vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, - compound element thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.
The wall is made of the same material as in the rest of the house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of ceramic block or laminated veneer lumber is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation made of foam plastic, perlite or mineral wool slabs(basalt or glass wool - read more about seamless insulation here). For the latter, film vapor barrier with inside and waterproofing from the outside. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered with finishing paint or plaster.
The attached vestibule can also be made using technology winter garden: frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable docking profile design with the main wall. To do this, make an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and are protected with facade sealant or hydro insulating tape. The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and the entrance vestibule in order to avoid the appearance of cracks over time. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover an attached vestibule, it is better to perform an independent truss structure, and close the joint from above with a cornice strip.
Also in the vestibule you need special attention Make sure there are no cracks: around the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow them out with polyurethane foam, and fill small cracks with tow, seal them with insulating tape, or simply “close” them with silicone sealant.
DIY vestibule
I assembled galvanized corners with yellow screws, because... black ones break after one. Bottom beam pulled it in with studs that were pre-placed during concreting.
I suddenly remembered that I forgot about the porch (in fact, I wanted a welded one, but abandoned this idea). We make formwork for the porch.By this time the frame had already been sheathed.
Let's fill this up, not forgetting the embeds under the railings.
There is wind protection on the outside, vapor barrier on the inside or vice versa, I don’t remember.
We cover the outside with siding, in advance installed profiles. We also cook pillars for the canopy
Inside - plastic panels
Tambour made of double-glazed windows
- The area on which the vestibule will be located is determined.
- The farthest corners of the future room are pits for support pillars.
- To ensure correctness, the pillars are concreted during installation.· Filling the proposed floor with soil.
- distribute metal profiles with their fastening to support pillars.
- Roof beams are added, connecting them to each other, using all safety measures.
- Attaching roof beams to the profile frame and to the metal profile.
- Next come the materials that insulate the vestibule.
- Wall treatment, room style design.
- Inserting double-glazed windows and doors, securing them to the load-bearing frame.
- Elimination of unfinished details.
Do-it-yourself small vestibule
Likewise, we start any construction from the foundation. The foundation will be piled with a grillage. To do this, you need to drill holes with a hand drill to a depth below freezing of the soil. Install reinforcement into the hole under the pile.
We waterproof the pile. We take the roofing material and roll it into a tube, install it in the mouth. In addition, it will act as formwork, since the grillage is raised 10 cm above the ground. We pour concrete.
For the grillage, we make formwork, lay reinforcement and fill it with concrete. In order to raise it above the ground, you need to add sand and cover the bottom of the formwork with film.
Then, after three days, you can begin installing the reinforced concrete floor.
On the seventh Tuesday we build walls that are connected to external wall at home using fittings.
Building up the roof in the vestibule.
Vestibule size
For residential buildings, the dimensions of the vestibule should be as follows: depth 1.4 m, width = width of the doorway + 0.3 m.
For public buildings The vestibule size is calculated slightly differently. Depth should be equal to width door leaf+ 0.2 m, and width = width of the door leaf + 0.15 m on each side. Only in this case, the minimum depth should not be less than 1.2 m, and if it is abused by disabled people, then the minimum depth should be 1.8 m and width 2.2 m.
Building a vestibule measuring 1.4 x 1.2 m under the table on foot is not entirely rational. Therefore, this building often develops into glass veranda, where already more space and you can place some kind of furniture.
Sources: imhodom.ru, kak-svoimi-rukami.com, svoidomstroim.ru, hdinterior.ru
The warm floor in the hallway is an element of the heating system of the apartment or country house, allowing to improve the internal microclimate and ensure comfortable living for homeowners and tenants.
Depending on the element that provides heating of the floor surface, heated floor systems are classified as water and electric.
In water-type structures, the source of thermal energy is the coolant circulating through the heating circuit laid in the floor preparation.
The heating circuit is made of metal-plastic pipes, laid in the form of a coil, and water or another liquid substance with good thermal conductivity characteristics is used as a coolant.
In systems electric type, the source of heat is electrical energy.
Such devices, depending on their design, can be divided into three groups:
- Heating cable - laid in the floor screed in the form of a coil.
- Heating mat - the same heating cable, but already laid on a flexible base (fiberglass or other similar material) in factory conditions.
- Thermal film - source infrared radiation, thermoelements are located inside the film.
The choice of heated floor design depends on the area of the heated surface, technical characteristics the premises where the installation of this system is required, as well as the indicators of the power supply system and other parameters that determine the possibility of using this or that type of heat source.
Advantages and disadvantages of heated floors
Depending on the design of heating devices and the type of heat source, “warm floor” systems are characterized by the following advantages and disadvantages, which can be formulated as follows.
The advantages of installing a water-type heated floor include:
- Environmental Safety.
- Favorable temperature regime provided by the parameters of the circulating coolant.
- No need to install heating radiators increases usable area premises where this system is installed.
- Comfortable perception of heat transferred from the floor surface to the interior space of the room (radiation through the entire floor surface).
- Cost-effectiveness, in comparison with electrical analogues, in terms of payment for the services of energy supply organizations.
- No electromagnetic radiation.
The disadvantages of water type heating are:
- Lower reliability compared to electrical analogues.
- Difficulty obtaining permission to execute installation work in apartment buildings.
- The labor intensity and complexity of installing such a system.
- The need to perform additional installation work related to waterproofing the base on which installation is being carried out, which in turn leads to an increase in the cost of construction and installation work in general.
- If it is necessary to reduce the temperature of the coolant entering the “warm floor” system, installation is required additional equipment (mixing unit, circulation pump), which also leads to an increase in the cost of this type of system.
For "warm floor" systems based on the use electrical energy, also has its advantages, in addition to those listed above related to water systems:
- Wide range of uses for objects and premises for various purposes.
- Easy installation and maintenance.
- Long service life.
The main disadvantage of electric heating is the costs associated with paying bills for consumed electrical energy.
Installation of heated floors in the hallway
Depending on the area of the hallway or corridor located at the entrance to individual house or apartment, as well as covering material (laminate, tile, linoleum) and floor structures ( concrete screed, reinforced concrete slab, lumber), the heating system is also selected.
The water design is usually used when heating is required large area floor, while the costs of its maintenance do not depend on this indicator.
The pipes are laid on waterproofing, which in turn is placed on a layer of thermal insulation placed on the base (floor slabs basement). After that he lies down reinforcement mesh and the entire system is filled concrete mortar. The floor finishing material can be different, depending on the personal preferences of the user and the style of the hallway.
When using electric heating, the design looks like this.
A special heating cable is laid on a layer of thermal insulation, which is placed on the ceiling. The cable is secured with a special adhesive mounting tape.
A temperature sensor is placed in the space between the cable turns to monitor the temperature in the heating zone. Placed on top of the cable sand-cement screed, on which the finishing material is placed.
The temperature sensor is connected to the thermostat, which operates the system automatically in accordance with the specified parameters.
When using a heating mat, the “pie” itself for laying the heating element and the automation system are similar to the option of using a heating cable. The difference is that the mat is manufactured in a factory and has certain geometric dimensions and electrical power, which determine the possibility of its use in a particular place.
The installation of such a system is much simpler than when using a cable, since to install it it is enough to roll out the heating mat itself on a prepared base and carry out subsequent construction, installation and finishing work.
Infrared heating (film)
It is the most secure and energy-efficient effective method floor heating. Infrared rays heat the surface of the floor, walls, objects and things located in the area of their radiation, after which their heat is transferred to the air in this room.
Due to their small geometric dimensions (film thickness), such systems are installed directly under the floor covering.
Whether a warm floor is needed in the hallway and which system to choose, if there is such a need, everyone decides for themselves individually, focusing on the requirements for the microclimate of a given room and economic feasibility.
Even in the most inhospitable house, the front door opens constantly, whether you come yourself or guests, ask the dog to come home, go to work in the garden or do something around the house. During the entire time the door is open, the air carries with it heat or cold from the street, and the feet of those who enter dust and dirt during the cold and damp season.
To solve such problems, a vestibule is built in the house.
Despite the seemingly obvious benefits of the vestibule, many perceive it small space at the entrance only as a small storage room and a place for shoes. The following opinion is also widespread - this mini-room is not needed, it eats up the living area without much benefit, and also requires additional expenses for arrangement. And many designers ignore the vestibule when planning the construction of cottages. This decision is justified as follows: it is enough to make a well-insulated (or better yet, double) door, and these short-term “ventilations” will not play a big role.
However, a vestibule is necessary and useful in every home. The only exception is buildings in the southern regions of the country, where the climate is milder.
It should be borne in mind that building codes do not directly oblige the installation of a vestibule in residential buildings.
But, according to the regulations, living rooms(bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. This requirement is fully met by the vestibule, which is an intermediate, buffer space between the first and second (internal) entrance doors.
Due to their sequential opening, cold air remains between them and does not enter the living spaces. Also saved home warmth, heating devices do not “warm” the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is preserved, which is especially important when using air conditioning. Thus, both winter and summer provide more efficient use climate control technology and savings on heating or cooling costs.
In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts and prevents the penetration of smoke and various odors into the home. Finally, this is where you can leave your shoes, and with them the dirt.
Features of the vestibule layout
There are no separate standards for the design of vestibules. However, there are rules that also regulate the arrangement of this space.
It is advisable to locate the entrance to the house, and along with it the vestibule, taking into account the prevailing wind directions in the area. A door on the leeward side will make the house a little warmer, because gusts of wind will not blow into it.
Wherein the vestibule can be built into the main volume building or attached to it in the form of a protruding part (risalit), where a staircase can also be placed. The entrance door must open outwards: this improves its resistance to burglary, increases the free space in the vestibule, and ensures safer evacuation in case of fire.
It is not necessary to organize natural lighting; artificial lighting is sufficient. But glazing can be provided in the internal door: this will increase both illumination and improve the visual perception of space. The floor covering must be hard and non-slippery (including when wet). When installing dirt collection grates, they should be installed flush with the top floor covering, without a protruding threshold. This guarantees safer travel. Finally, the vestibule area is often lowered two or three steps below the level of the first floor, which further helps to retain the cold in this room.
Reliable insulation
The usefulness of the vestibule as a constructive temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities. The outer wall of the vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.
The wall is made of the same material as in the rest of the house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of laminated timber or laminated timber is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation from foam plastic, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool - read more about seamless insulation). For the latter, film vapor barrier on the inside and waterproofing on the outside are required. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered with finishing paint or plaster.
The attached vestibule can also be made using winter garden technology: a frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable connection of the profile structure with the main wall. To do this, make an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and protect it with façade sealant or waterproofing tape. The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and the entrance vestibule in order to avoid the appearance of cracks over time. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover the attached vestibule, it is better to make an independent rafter structure and cover the joint from above with a cornice strip.
Also in the vestibule you need to pay special attention to see if there are any cracks: along the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow them out with polyurethane foam, and fill small cracks with tow, seal them with insulating tape, or simply “close” them with silicone sealant.
Particular attention should be paid to doors.
The outer one should be made of solid wood or metal frame With internal insulation. Perfect as a second one balcony door With double-sided handle, glazing and complete sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours. You can also install a simple one, even made of wood or plastic, you just need to line it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.
Which vestibule to build – heated or not?
The question of the necessity and possibility of heating the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend installing the circuit of the general heating system here to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.
However, according to building codes, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant. And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional heating systems: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. The very essence of the vestibule, why it is needed in the first place, is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.
It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, it is a cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles. An air thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow, will also be beneficial. It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (i.5~5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.
Ergonomics of the territory
Tambours are often used as storage rooms and old shoes, household equipment, small items are stored here. Construction Materials. Thus, they clutter up the space and increase the area of surfaces that collect dust. In a small vestibule, it is advisable to arrange only shelves for shoes, as well as hooks and shelves for keys and other accessories. You can also hang a mirror on the wall. In the more spacious vestibule, after a walk, a baby stroller and sled are left.
If the depth allows, then you can equip a built-in closet (for example, a wardrobe) and store skis, balls and other sports equipment inside it. A mezzanine is made for the same purpose. And at the same time, due to it, the ceiling level is reduced so that there is no feeling of a well in the vestibule. Boxes from purchased equipment are stored in these same furniture elements, which should not be thrown away during the warranty period, etc. But the most frequently worn outerwear and hats should be stored in the wardrobe or hallway.
It is convenient when a door to the adjacent garage is built into the side wall of a spacious vestibule. Finally, internal and external doors are positioned both along the same axis, perpendicular to the facade, and at an angle of 90° to each other. The second option reduces airflow, but is less convenient as it makes it difficult to carry furniture.
Leave dirt in the extension
The entire history of a person’s movements during the day remains on the sole of the shoe: in the form of dust, small pebbles, snow, ice, etc. In a word, dirt. All of it remains with the shoes in the vestibule, but gradually accumulates and, sooner or later, ends up in the house. To prevent this, rag or rubberized mats are most often used, but they quickly become dirty, and the former also get wet. As a result, such coatings not only do not retain dirt, but also “return” it to the soles.
So it is better to use special dirt protection systems. For example, grilles made of aluminum or hard rubber, as well as combined products (they have metal strips alternating with rubber inserts). The cells in the grid should be square or diamond-shaped and of such a size that clods of dirt are collected and are not a trap for women's heels. The entire area of the vestibule should not be covered with grating. But to ensure complete collection of dirt, its width should be equal to the doorway (or better, 10-20 cm wider than it). The thickness of the grate is assumed to be 1o-16 mm - this allows you to collect up to 7-10 kg of dirt and clean it less often. At the same time, dirt can be collected using a grate on the outside area near the door, then a canopy should be strengthened over the entrance to protect it from precipitation.
Read also:
Features of the final finishing of the vestibule
A vestibule is a room with constant changes in temperature and humidity. Materials that can be used for walls and ceilings should be wet cleaning. For example, you can use facade paint, plaster or plastic panels. But gypsum and other types of materials intended for indoor use are not suitable - coatings made from them may crack.
For visual increase spaces are chosen light colors finishing. Finally, a wear-resistant material is laid on the floor. ceramic tiles, natural or fake diamond or linoleum. They not only resist abrasion, but are also easy to clean.
Location and layout of the vestibule (schematic drawing)
- Traditional small vestibule with wardrobe
- Tambour, which also serves as a hall with stairs
- Unusual planning solution allows efficient use of space
- The entrance is recessed into the façade of the house, which provides even better protection from the cold. There is an exit from the vestibule to the garage
- The entrance to the house is made on the same level as the facade. A door leads from the vestibule to the laundry room
- Part of the vestibule, which has a complex shape, is reserved for a small dressing room
Additionally to the article:
- Most often, the vestibule is built from the same material as the house.
- A translucent structure, for example made of glass, can also serve as a vestibule.
- In small old houses, for example in adobe, they often made a summer kitchen - essentially the same vestibule that insulates the living part of the house from the cold.
- The construction of a vestibule in the main volume of the house, with reasonable planning, can help in zoning the space
- If the vestibule is small, then the door should be installed so that it opens to the street.
- It is better to heat the vestibule autonomously - using a “warm floor” system or a fan heater installed above the external door.
- The vestibule, lowered 2-3 steps below the level of living quarters, better retains the cold.
- Fencing off a small hallway by turning it into a vestibule is easy and inexpensive, and the resulting buffer will allow you to save on heating costs. How to attach a mini-veranda to your houseNew... Household: tips, improvements and improvements Bucket...
- Why does the refrigerator leak? Trying to maintain the required...
A well-made and insulated vestibule can make a significant contribution to maintaining a comfortable microclimate in the cottage.
Tambour retains heat
According to standards living rooms(bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. When they are opened sequentially, cold air remains between them and does not enter the living spaces.
At the same time, the house remains warm; heating devices do not “warm” the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is preserved, which is especially important when using air conditioning.
Thus, both in winter and summer, more efficient use of climate control equipment is ensured and savings in heating or cooling costs are created.
In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts and prevents smoke and unnecessary odors from entering the house. Finally, here you can leave your shoes, and with them the dirt from the street.
Reliable insulation
Whether the vestibule will act as a temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities.
The outer wall of the vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.
The wall is made of the same material as the entire house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of ceramic block or laminated veneer lumber is usually not required, then in the vestibule area, experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation from polystyrene foam, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool).
For the latter, a film vapor barrier on the inside is required, which will prevent the insulation layer from getting wet and losing its qualities. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered with finishing paint or plaster.
Technologies for vestibule
Attached the vestibule can also be made using winter garden technology: frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable connection of the profile structure with the main wall.
To do this, make an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and protect it with façade sealant or waterproofing tape.
The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and the entrance vestibule to avoid the appearance of cracks in the future. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover the attached vestibule, it is better to make an independent rafter structure and cover the joint from above with a cornice strip.
Also in the vestibule you need to pay special attention to see if there are any cracks: along the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow them out with polyurethane foam, and fill small cracks with tow, seal them with insulating tape, or simply “close” them with silicone sealant.
Doors for vestibule
Particular attention should be paid to doors. The outer one should be made of solid wood or a metal frame with internal insulation.
As a second option, a balcony door with a double-sided handle, glazing and complete sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours is perfect.
You can put a simple one, even interior door made of wood or plastic, you just need to cover it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.
To heat or not to heat?
The question of the need and possibility of heating for the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend installing the circuit of the general heating system here to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.
However, according to building codes, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant.
And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional heating systems: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. Herself the essence of the vestibule is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.
Heating the vestibule
It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, this cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles.
Will be beneficial and air thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow.
It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (1.5-5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.
According to standards, living rooms (bedrooms and children's rooms) must be separated from the street by at least three doors. When they are opened sequentially, cold air remains between them and does not enter the living spaces.
At the same time, the house remains warm; heating devices do not “warm” the street. And in the summer, the coolness in the house is preserved, which is especially important when using air conditioning.
Thus, both in winter and summer, more efficient use of climate control equipment is ensured and savings in heating or cooling costs are created.
In addition, the vestibule blocks the formation of drafts and prevents smoke and unnecessary odors from entering the house. Finally, here you can leave your shoes, and with them the dirt from the street.
Reliable insulation
Whether the vestibule will act as a temperature barrier for other rooms depends, first of all, on its thermal insulation qualities.
The outer wall of the vestibule, being part of the external structures of the house, is an integral element of the thermal contour of the building, and its “pie” should help ensure and maintain the “thermos effect”.
The wall is made of the same material as the entire house. But if additional insulation, for example, for a wall made of ceramic block or laminated veneer lumber, is usually not required, then in the vestibule area experts recommend installing a layer of thermal insulation made of foam plastic, perlite or mineral wool slabs (basalt or glass wool).
For the latter, a film vapor barrier on the inside is required, which will prevent the insulation layer from getting wet and losing its qualities. From the outside, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened onto the heat-insulating layer and then covered with finishing paint or plaster.
Technologies for vestibule
The attached vestibule can also be made using winter garden technology: a frame made of aluminum or plastic profile with double glazing. The main thing is to ensure reliable connection of the profile structure with the main wall.
To do this, make an expansion joint: leave a gap 20-50 mm thick, fill it with fibrous insulation (tow or mineral wool, but not polyurethane foam) and protect it with façade sealant or waterproofing tape.
The same seam must be made at the junction of the cottage foundations and the entrance vestibule to avoid the appearance of cracks in the future. But the roof of the extension cannot be joined in this way. To cover the attached vestibule, it is better to make an independent rafter structure and cover the joint from above with a cornice strip.
Also in the vestibule you need to pay special attention to see if there are any cracks: along the perimeter of the doors, along the baseboards and in the corners. It is better to fill large holes with mineral wool, but you can also blow them out with polyurethane foam, and fill small cracks with tow, seal them with insulating tape, or simply “close” them with silicone sealant.
Doors for vestibule
Particular attention should be paid to doors. The outer one should be made of solid wood or a metal frame with internal insulation.
As a second option, a balcony door with a double-sided handle, glazing and complete sealing of the opening due to two sealing contours is perfect.
You can install a simple, even interior door made of wood or plastic, you just need to seal it around the perimeter with a rubber seal.
To heat or not to heat?
The question of the need and possibility of heating for the vestibule raises a lot of controversy. Some experts strongly recommend installing the circuit of the general heating system here to avoid the appearance of frost on the doors or ceiling of the room in winter. In addition, according to them, the vestibule can become so cold in cold weather that it ceases to act as a temperature buffer.
However, according to building codes, heating devices should not be placed in rooms that have external doors to avoid freezing of the coolant.
And most designers do not recommend connecting the vestibule to traditional heating systems: this leads to unnecessary, completely unnecessary energy costs. The very essence of the vestibule is to be a buffer, a mixing zone of cold and warm air.
Heating the vestibule
It is permissible to install two heating devices here. Firstly, it is a cable heated floor. It will not harm the main function of the vestibule, will provide a more comfortable change from street shoes to house slippers, and will speed up the melting of snow, which often accumulates on the soles.
An air thermal curtain, that is, several fan heaters installed above the doorway, with a flat, clearly directed air flow, will also be beneficial.
It will be enough to install a curtain of low power (1.5-5 kW) so that a wall of warm air along the opening completely cuts off the cold air from the residential area. In this case, the vestibule will be used only for changing shoes and accumulating street dirt.