Single-pipe underfloor heating system. How to connect a heated floor to heating

Installation and connection of water floor heating to the water heating system in the house is possible both at the construction and planning stage, and to an already existing and functioning heating circuit. Before making a heated floor from heating, it is necessary to correctly calculate its expected performance, take into account the features of combining the radiator circuit and the additional structure pipeline, as well as other parameters. Installation on a wooden base must be carried out taking into account the operating conditions of the finishing coating.

Fact! To implement such a system, both a single-pipe and a two-pipe main are suitable, and it can be used both in an apartment and in a private house, including a wooden one. A special pump will provide constant circulation of hot water, which will significantly increase the efficiency of heating and return of coolant through the return pipes. You can design the circuit of an underfloor heating system yourself, taking into account the basic principles of pipe arrangement. With proper and high-quality installation, proper operation of the boiler and general thermal insulation, this heating method will be an effective replacement for batteries.

In accordance with regulated standards, unauthorized unauthorized connection of water floor heating in an apartment to central heating is prohibited. Unauthorized do-it-yourself tie-in is fraught with danger irreversible consequences in terms of high-quality heating of neighboring apartments from below or above, depending on the principle of hot water supply in the water central heating system. Connecting an additional structure with central heating can damage the general hydraulics of the entire multi-story building. If there is autonomous water heating in the apartment, which is connected to the boiler, permission from utility services is not needed. This applies to houses of old construction; in new buildings it is possible to connect water floor heating.

Connecting a heated floor to individual heating

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Connection types for water floor heating depend on general scheme heating systems, there are the following systems:

Single-pipe;
Two-pipe;
Gravitational.

To connect the structure to an individual heating system in a private house or apartment, it is necessary to correctly design the outline of the structure, take into account the distance between the turns and the distance from the boiler, as well as the expected location of furniture or other decorative and interior elements. It is recommended to locate the circuit under an open, unoccupied floor surface.

In a private house, installation of this type of heating usually occurs during overhaul when strengthening and filling with cement mortar of floors is carried out. On wooden floor laying a water heating structure is also possible if there is a frame made of additional logs and a new coating. Please note that installation on a wooden base requires the presence of effective thermal insulation from the bottom side of the structure. Also, laying on a wooden frame should ensure uniform distribution of the generated heat, for which purpose recesses can be equipped in the logs for the location of the pipeline.

The single-pipe water heating circuit, the so-called “Leningradka”, is considered one of the simplest and least expensive designs. This scheme and its installation provide for the presence of one main line for hot water; the circuit in this case only increases its total length. The operation of the installation is ensured by a circulation pump, without which the heating efficiency is insufficient. The presence in a private house of a boiler in which such a pump is installed also does not guarantee that the circuit will be as efficient as possible. For high-quality circulation of hot water through the pipes, the pump should be installed approximately in the middle of the line. In this case, the underfloor heating circuit must have a connection after the pump, and the return line after it. Control is carried out using special regulators that are installed on the open part of the pipeline. The circuit connected to a single-pipe heating system should not exceed 20 - 30 m. Otherwise, the efficiency of its operation is noticeably reduced. Special attention attention should be paid to the location of the mixer for heated floors, which is also installed on the open part of the structure.

A two-pipe heating circuit is considered the most optimal for connecting and operating underfloor heating. A two-pipe radiator heating system provides for separate pipelines for return and hot water supply connected to the main boiler. In this case, you can connect the heated floor system in one place on the open part using a mixer module or conventional ball valves, which will ensure the necessary flow of water through them.

Important! The two-pipe type of connection can ensure normal functioning of a heated floor circuit, the length of which does not exceed 50 m.

The gravity scheme provides for the natural circulation of water through the pipeline. The water heated floor circuit must be connected to such a circuit, taking into account the slope of the line. You need to connect the system at one end of the room, and output the return line at the other. Installing and connecting to such a system with your own hands is a very labor-intensive process that requires special knowledge.

You should also choose the correct pipe diameter for both the battery connection and the heated floor. The size of the main pipes connected to the boiler must be at least 32 mm.

The pipeline layout can be made according to the principle:

The diameter of the pipe for laying heated floors when a single-pipe or two-pipe scheme heating, should not exceed 18 mm.

You can connect a water heated floor with your own hands, while observing the basic requirements for installing such structures. Using this heating method will allow you to abandon the open radiator heating circuit, which is also acceptable in a private wooden house. If the external insulation of the building is insufficient or the wooden base is not insulated, it is recommended to use two heating principles together, depending on the efficiency of the boiler. The installation algorithm that determines how to make a warm floor from heating must include testing of operation at open system, not filled with cement screed. The final formation of the floor covering in the house is possible after a certain period of time, making sure that the structure is intact and there are no leaks.

“Heated floor” systems are rapidly gaining popularity among owners of private suburban housing and city apartments, and many of them have the question: “How to make a heated floor from heating.” This is not surprising - such a heat exchange scheme in the room is the most effective and economical - heated air from the floor is evenly heated rises up, creating an optimal comfortable temperature distribution without the formation of horizontal convection currents.

There are many underfloor heating schemes - they can be, that is, with the laying of pipes for the circulation of liquid coolant, and electrical, which use various heating schemes from the power supply. Due to the fact that electricity cannot be called cheap, many homeowners pay increased attention to the “water” circuit. Moreover, the owners of city apartments are tempted to take advantage of the central heating circuit, therefore, in Internet search engines, the top queries always include the following: “how to make a heated floor.”

Unfortunately, many articles on this topic begin with the fact that the reader is presented with the most rosy prospects, for example, “the installation of such a warm floor is not difficult and can easily be done on your own.” Is it so? Practice shows that the equipment of such a system will require considerable effort to overcome a variety of problems, both purely technological and administrative in nature.

The purpose of this publication is not so much step-by-step instructions on how to independently install a water-heated floor heating system, but rather an overview of all complex issues in the implementation of this project with options for their possible resolution. Having assessed the scale of the work, the nature of the upcoming difficulties and their own strengths, it is likely that some apartment owners will decide in favor of one that is much easier to install.

Administrative difficulties

First of all, you need to point out that the installation of such a “warm floor” with a connection to central heating may be hindered by administrative barriers.

The central heating system is calculated taking into account the power of the boiler room, the throughput of heating mains, the pipe distribution system in multi-storey buildings, the number and total area of heated apartments and many other factors. The insertion of additional heating circuits, especially those of considerable length, will certainly affect the overall parameters of the system. It’s good if the boiler room’s power and wiring capabilities make it possible to compensate for heat losses, but this does not always happen. Thus, residents of apartments connected to one riser may feel a decrease in the temperature of the heating radiators, which will lead to complaints about the work of utility workers.

Therefore, the installation of additional underfloor heating circuits requires mandatory approval from the organization providing heat supply. apartment building, and it’s not a fact that she will agree to it. Of course, there are always “smart guys” who can connect “pirate-style”, without notifying housing and communal services specialists, but sooner or later this is discovered and ends with the imposition of considerable penalties.

As a rule, permission can be given if the apartment is located at the very end of the heating circuit. For example, with a heat supply scheme down up, there should be no special problems for owners of apartments on the highest floor - the extraction of additional thermal energy will not in any way affect other residents of the house. Conversely, when top heat supply is used, the owners of an apartment on the first floor will have this advantage. But in both cases, the heat supply organization will most likely require the installation of an additional heat energy meter for individual calculation of payment for its consumption.

Managers or heat supply organizations can meet halfway even if the apartment heating system does not use a common coolant, but energy transfer carried out through special device – heat exchanger. In this case, the “warm floor” circuit becomes autonomous to a certain extent, but a metering device for consumed heat will nevertheless still be required.

Only owners of apartments with an autonomous heating system, that is, those who have disconnected from the central network and installed their own gas or electric boiler and a closed circuit that is not connected to the outside, may not have such problems with permission to install a water-heated floor. This, of course, means that the installation of your own heat generator (boiler) and “autonomization” have already received appropriate approval in advance. But even in this case, one will have to face considerable difficulties, only now of a technological nature. This will be discussed below.

Possible solutions for laying “warm floor” pipes

If there are problems conciliatory there is no more character, then issues with the system for laying the “warm floor” circuits have to be resolved. Here you will have to deal with a lot of nuances - assessing the possibility of raising the floor level and additional load, purchasing high-quality components, creating reliable thermal insulation, choosing a laying scheme and technology for covering the floor over pipes. Let's talk about everything in order.

How much will the floor surface rise?

This factor should be taken into account in advance, even before all subsequent work begins. The water-heated floor system itself implies reliable thermal insulation of the base, so that expensive energy is not wasted simply on heating the floor slabs between floors.

For apartments located above heated rooms, a 30 mm layer of standard insulation (for example, extruded polystyrene) is considered sufficient. In the case when such heating is installed on the ground floor, under which there is a cold basement or basement, or soil, a layer of at least 50 mm, and sometimes up to 100 mm, will be required.

Installation of a “warm floor” always leads to a significant increase in the height of the covering

But that's not all. You should add the thickness of the screed, which will cover the pipes and act as a powerful thermal energy accumulator. That is, you need to add at least another 50 mm. Plus to this is the thickness of the finishing floor covering. The total will result in a general rise in surface level. Based on this result, you can assess whether this can be done in an apartment.

It is possible to do without a concrete screed, thereby reducing the height of the floor.

For this purpose, a system of laying pipes in heat-exchange metal plates is used, which are installed in ready-made wooden modules, slatted or joist structures, or in thermal insulation mats.

One of the options for placing plates is on slatted logs

In this case, heat transfer is certainly somewhat reduced, but this is an inevitable price to pay for saving space.

In any case, a certain rise in the surface level cannot be avoided. If the “warm floor” system is planned only in separate rooms, this will lead to the formation of steps in the apartment, which is not entirely convenient in everyday life - a similar factor must also be kept in mind.

Thermal insulation mats

So, as already mentioned, laying “warm floor” pipes will require preliminary thermal insulation of the surface. Rolled foam polyethylene, even with foil, will clearly not be enough (with rare exceptions), and usually special mats are used for these purposes. They come in several types:

Flat polystyrene foam mats with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm with a foil coating and, ideally, with a laminating layer on which a marking grid is applied, making it easier to lay pipes according to the developed pattern.

To fix pipes to such mats, special clamps - “harpoons” are used, or, when pouring reinforced screed, the pipes are attached to the reinforcing mesh using polymer clamps - “ties”. In addition, for convenience, special mounting rails can be used.

Expanded polystyrene profile mats with special bosses, the location and height of which allow the pipes to be securely fixed in a given position.

Particularly convenient are such mats with a laminated coating and a system of locks for mutual interfacing - they create a single surface that no longer requires additional waterproofing.

Such mats are made from high-density polystyrene foam (more than 40 kg/m³), which guarantees that they can withstand the loads both from the poured screed and those arising during operation. The standard dimensions of one such profile panel are 1.0 × 1.0 or 0.6 × 0.8 m. Thickness varies (without accounting boss heights) within 5 ÷ 50 mm, permissible pipe laying spacing is 50 mm or more (multiples of 50).

Such mats provide another advantage - their complex relief structure, along with the physical properties of polystyrene foam, provide excellent noise-absorbing Effect.

Prices for mats for heated water floors

Mats for warm water floors

Which pipes are optimal for “warm floors”

Pipes in a “warm floor” system are installed with a view to a long period of use, during which their regular inspection will simply be impossible. That is why their choice should be treated with special care. What requirements should they meet:

Seamless pipes are unacceptable - they will not guarantee the safety of the circuit when the pressure in it increases.
For the same reason, you should avoid any joints in the circuit - this place is vulnerable to both blockages and leaks.
Pipes must have the necessary margin of safety - they are subject to load both from the coolant and external, from the weight of the screed, floor covering and dynamic loads. You should focus on a pressure resistance indicator of at least 8 ÷ 10 bar.
Pipes must have the highest performance corrosion resistance, resistance to the formation of scale deposits, chemical inertness. The “scourge” of pipelines is oxygen diffusion, and the optimal choice would be a material with a special protective layer against this process.
Not everyone may like the noise of water flowing through pipes. This means that the pipes must have an appropriate level of sound insulation.
Diameter - usually 16 or 20 mm pipes are used. An underestimation will lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance and a decrease in heat transfer, and excessively thick pipes will significantly increase the thickness of the screed and lead to significant heat loss in the overall heating system.
Pipes should be purchased in one solid piece for the circuit, the length of which, with a diameter of 16 mm, should not be more than 60 - 80 meters. If this value is exceeded, a “closed loop” effect may appear in the circuit, when the pressure created by the circulation pump cannot cope with the internal hydraulic resistance. If this length is not enough to cover the entire area of the room, you will have to organize two or more separate circuits from one collector.

Which pipes are preferable for “warm floors”:

Metal-plastic pipes are great for underfloor heating systems, but with some caveats. Really high-quality material must be used, since there are frequent cases of rupture of the pipe body from excess pressure. The problem, in fact, is not at all the unreliability of the structure itself, but the fact that the building materials market is oversaturated with low-quality fakes that do not stand up to criticism. In pursuit of a low price, it is not difficult to get into a very unpleasant situation - something that is easily eliminated, for example, in a water supply system, can have catastrophic consequences when a low-quality pipe is located in the thickness of the floor.

Another note is that the aluminum layer, in general, although resistant to corrosion, nevertheless, over time, under the influence of oxygen, gradually loses its qualities, becoming brittle. This significantly reduces the service life of such pipes. Therefore, when choosing a material, it is best to choose a variety with a special oxygen barrier.

Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene have recently begun to hold the leading position in this area. A process of special polymer processing - “cross-linking” - creates additional three-dimensional intermolecular bonds, which ultimately gives excellent strength and flexibility of the pipe. The best pipes are marked RE-Xa, in which the degree of “crosslinking” reaches 80–90%. It’s even better if the “EVON” layer is included in the pipe structure - it almost completely blocks the possibility of oxygen diffusion.

In addition, some manufacturers reinforce PE-Ha pipes with a layer of overlap-welded aluminum, and such products become ideal for use in heating systems - they can withstand the most critical loads.

Recently, stainless steel corrugated pipes have begun to compete with polymer pipes. They have excellent flexibility, and the external and inner layer polyethylene coating makes them practically absolutely impenetrable.

Such pipes are produced in coils up to 50 meters, but have such a reliable fitting system that they can be extended even with the connections closed concrete screed.

Which styling “pattern” to choose

When drawing up installation schemes, one of two main methods with possible variations is usually used - “snail” or “snake”.

The “snail” or double “snake” schemes shown in the right figure are a little more difficult to install, but they provide more uniform heating of the floor surface, since the supply and return pipes are located in parallel each other.

The pitch of laying pipes can be different - it all depends on how insulated the room itself is and the effect expected from such a heating system. It is usually considered the norm to place turns at a distance of 100 mm. You can create areas of increased heating by shortening this step, or, conversely, in those places where special heating is not required, significantly increase the distance.

Be that as it may, all ends of the circuits are reduced to one point - to the installation site of the distribution manifold, which will be discussed below.

Prices for water pipes and fittings

Water pipes and fittings

Features of connecting “warm floor” circuits to an existing heating system

The apartment owner who believes that it is enough to simply embed the contours of the “warm floor” into the heating risers of the house - supply and return - is deeply mistaken. This approach is simply impossible based on a number of considerations:

Water in narrow and long circuits will never begin to circulate independently - it will choose the path of least hydraulic resistance. Thus, a circulation pump becomes a mandatory element
In order to ensure the movement of the coolant with effective heat transfer, a device for equalizing pressure in the system is necessary, which will prevent stagnation or, conversely, the appearance of the effect of water hammer.
A drainage system is required accumulating in the air system.
The coolant in the central system is not always clean, and in order to prevent clogging of the “warm floor” circuits, it is necessary to install filters.
One of the main reasons is the need to necessarily reduce the temperature of the coolant. The water in central heating pipes can be heated to very high limits, sometimes even reaching 80 degrees, which absolutely not applicable for a "warm floor" system. Overheating of the surface negative will affect the integrity of the screed and thermal insulation layer and the condition of the final floor covering. In addition, too high a surface temperature will create absolutely not comfortable the situation in the apartment. Practice shows that the optimal temperature for heating the coolant for a heated floor is a temperature of 35 - 40°, and it is not recommended to exceed it. This means that a special mixing unit is needed that will mix water from the supply and return to achieve the desired level of heating.

Of course, all this requires the installation of visual monitoring devices and parameter adjustment, manual or automatic.
And finally, not a single heat supply organization will give permission for any connection unless all the rules for the safe operation of the system are observed, its efficiency in terms of thermal energy consumption, if it at least to some extent interferes with the normal operation of the central heating the entire building.

Amateur activity in such matters is not encouraged - there are several basic connection diagrams, which are developed on the basis of carefully carried out thermal and hydraulic calculations.

For example, when connecting “warm floor” collectors at the final section of the riser (first or top floor, as mentioned earlier), the diagram shown in the figure is usually used. It provides:

Inlet valve with a mandatory filter - “dirt trap” (1).
Valve on the return pipe of the circuit with check valve (2).
Three-way tap – mixer (3) with manual or servo-driven control.

If control is carried out in automatic mode, then it is connected to a temperature sensor - the control signal is shown in the diagram with a green dotted line.

Circulation (4) with a capacity corresponding to the total length of the circuits connected to the collectors.
To equalize the required pressure difference in the supply and return pipes, a bypass valve (5) is installed.
The “combs” of both collectors must have air vents(6) and drain valves (7) to drain the coolant for maintenance or repair work.

In the case when the underfloor heating system cuts directly into the coolant supply pipes (permission for this has been obtained, or in the conditions of an autonomous home heating network), the diagrams should be slightly different:

Recommended schemes for connecting “warm floors” to heating risers

On the diagram "A" shows a connection using a two-way valve (2) connected to a thermostat. The tap regulates only the total flow of water, without mixing, increasing or decreasing the pressure and, therefore, the rate of heat exchange. General adjustment is carried out balancing valves(3 and 4). Pressure equalization is carried out by the bypass valve (8).
Scheme "b" descending from the first, and differs only in the presence of a direct bypass (jumper) between the collectors (8) with a valve designed to operate when the permissible pressure in the supply pipe is exceeded.
On the image "V" a pipe connection unit with a three-way valve (11) installed on the return line is shown, redirecting the flow of cooled liquid to the supply line. This scheme is one of the simplest, but at the same time it is quite reliable.
Similar to it, but more advanced and easier to adjust - circuit "G" . Here, a three-way mixer (9) is installed on the supply pipe, providing direct mixing of hot and chilled water before entering the circulation pump (1).
The most perfect scheme is considered "d" with a four-way valve mixer, with manual adjustment, or equipped with a servo drive connected to a thermostat unit.

This adjustment gives the most accurate adjustment indicators, both for the temperature of the coolant and for the liquid in the “warm floor” circuits.

And finally, in the picture "e" The previously mentioned diagram of connecting a “warm floor” to a central heating system through a heat exchanger (14) is shown. A characteristic feature is the mandatory presence of its own safety group (12), including its own control pressure gauge, overpressure valve and air vent, as well as installation expansion tank membrane principle action (13), which will compensate for inevitable pressure drops.

To ensure the necessary replenishment of the coolant, a jumper (15) with a dirt filter, shut-off valve and check valve can be installed.

If several “warm floor” circuits are connected to the collectors in parallel, another problem arises - uneven flow of coolant in them. Sometimes this even ends in hydrostatic “locking” - the liquid completely stops moving along one of them, choosing its path with least resistance. This, of course, can be dealt with by maintaining a precisely verified uniform length of all contours, but in practice this is extremely difficult to implement. There is only one way out - control valves are installed on the collector combs for each circuit, allowing the total flow to be balanced so that it is distributed evenly.

Shut-off and control valves on the manifold combs

In addition, such shut-off valves make it possible to turn off some heating zones in case of unnecessary use or in the event of emergency situations - for preventive maintenance or repairs.

Is it possible to assemble a similar wiring, mixing and fine-tuning system yourself? Perhaps, if the apartment owner has the necessary knowledge in this area, he may succeed, but more often than not, help will be needed qualified specialist– commissioning work on such interdependent circuits will require a professional approach.

But in order to make the process of installing a “warm floor” from heating as easy as possible, equipment manufacturers offer ready-made comprehensive solutions– mixing and collector units various designs with already assembled elements, including a circulation pump, a system of mixers and taps, instrumentation, and automatic or manual control units. Thus, the apartment owners can, after consulting with specialists, choose the most acceptable option that best suits the specific installation conditions and suits the cost. The choice is quite large - such units are produced both for small rooms and capable of optimally distributing coolant flows over large areas.

As a rule, for such mixing units a manifold cabinet is provided, which can be completely hidden in a niche cut out in the wall. The location is selected for reasons of maximum simplification of the layout of the “warm floor” pipe system, access to the supply and return risers of the central heating system. With small heating areas and small dimensions of the unit itself, it is sometimes placed directly on the external wall.

The process of laying and connecting pipes, launching a “warm floor” system

Laying the contours of "warm floor" pipes is usually done in next sequence:

The condition of the subfloor is inspected. If necessary, its defects are eliminated - depressions and cracks are sealed with repair mortar, protruding places are cut down to a smooth surface. After removing debris and removing dust, it is necessary to apply a deep penetration primer - it will increase the strength of the base and create an additional waterproofing barrier.
A layer of waterproofing film with a thickness of at least 200 microns is covered. It should be on the surface of the walls at 150 ÷ 200 mm. Adjacent strips are laid overlapping with an overlap of 150 mm, the resulting seams are taped with durable construction tape.
A damper tape is attached along the entire perimeter of the wall, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the future screed covering the pipes of the heating circuits. The height of the rise of the tape on the walls should correspond to the planned thickness of the screed plus another 20 ÷ 30 mm.
Thermal insulation mats are laid. It is also advisable to glue the joints with waterproof tape. If the polystyrene foam is not equipped with a reflective foil layer, it is also necessary to lay a thin foil backing made of polyethylene foam.
The pipes are laid out according to a pre-developed scheme. The layout begins from the manifold cabinet, and it should end here. To ensure the connection of the pipe to the collector, the necessary reserve must be left.
If profile mats are used, the pipes are fixed between the bosses. For even insulation panels, plastic fasteners and mounting strips are used. As an option, the pipes can be tied to the reinforcing mesh. It is best to carry out such actions with an assistant, who, as the coil unwinds and lays out, will immediately fix the pipe in the right place.

Laying the “warm floor” contour

Both terminals of each circuit are hermetically connected to the corresponding manifold in the distribution cabinet.

The next step is to check the tightness of the system. To do this, it is carried out - all circuits and elements of the mixing cabinet are filled with water under operating pressure. If it is possible to use compression equipment, then the pressure should even be increased by one and a half - two times. The filled system must remain in this position for at least 24 hours, during which the pressure gauge readings and visual monitoring of the condition of the pipes and all fittings or threaded connections. If a leak or pressure drop is detected, the necessary repair measures are carried out and the pressure testing process is repeated. Only with a stable positive result can you proceed to closing the “warm floor” contours with a screed.

Closing the “warm floor” with a screed

carried out in the usual manner - with reinforcement, installation of a beacon system. Use concrete mortar grade strength not lower than M200 with fine sand. It is highly desirable to add a plasticizing composition, which will make it easier to lay the mortar in difficult places (near pipes and on the protrusions of mounting strips or relief mats), and will help avoid the formation of air voids - they can not only reduce the strength of the coating, but also worsen the thermal characteristics of the heating system being created.

The thickness of the screed must be at least 50 mm. Too much thick layer disrupt the thermal balance and become an unnecessary load on both the pipes and the ceiling. Insufficient thickness of the screed will not ensure the safety of the contours from dynamic loads, and will not allow it to cope with the role of a heat accumulator.

Before pouring concrete, the pipes must be filled with coolant to prevent deformation of their walls as the weight load increases.

Until the screed has completely dried (3 - 4 weeks, depending on the type of solution used), it is forbidden to increase the temperature of the coolant in the system - the screed must gain strength at a stable temperature.

Completely dry concrete surface will become the basis for laying any type of finishing floor covering.

Video: screed option over “warm floor” pipes

If the use of “concrete” technology is impossible (due to the concept of the floor level being too high or due to the inadmissibility of a large load on the ceiling), it is recommended to install “warm floors” in wooden modules using heat exchange plates, which were already mentioned above.

Laying “warm floor” pipes in wooden modules

Similar plates can also be used on profile mats, if you select them in full accordance with the diameter of the pipes and the distance between the bosses.

You can carry out a similar installation on profile mats...

Alternatively, even in ordinary mats of extruded polystyrene foam, grooves can be cut for installing heat exchange plates and then laying pipes in them.

... or even directly on XPS panels

On such a surface, after crimping, you can immediately lay the finishing floor covering. If you plan to lay laminate flooring, then only a foam polyethylene backing will be needed. In the case when linoleum or tiles will be laid on the floor, a layer of plywood (OSB, GVL) is first laid over the metal plates, and only then the finishing coating is installed.

And finally, the features of starting a “warm floor” system from heating. Under no circumstances should you immediately run it at full power. Commissioning should be carried out in steps, with a smooth increase in the coolant temperature to the design temperature. It is recommended to extend this process over 3–4 days.

What is the conclusion from all of the above? Is it possible to call the process of creating a heated floor from an existing heating system a simple one that anyone can undertake? Probably not. Should

flexible structure is convenient for creating any turns and roundings;
complete freedom in styling shape (stripe, square, L-shape);
increased power of 330 W allows you to use the element as the main heating in the room;
easy installation in concrete screed;
Weighs only 1.7 kg, convenient for transportation;
two cables in the structure provide more heat;
interact with both electronic and mechanical thermostats.

The thermostat must be purchased separately;
Only suitable for tiles.

Electric heated floor Devi 330 W

Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

This is the best heated floor heating cable for a large room, which is 60 meters long and allows you to heat 7 m2, which is effective in front of the bed and TV or in other places often passable place. The product is supplied in a coil, and the heating element is equipped with a gray insulating coating. Additionally, a tape is included to secure the cable in a certain shape. A power of 850 W allows the use of heated floors as the main source of heating.

can be placed in screed or tile adhesive;
it is allowed to use the cable under parquet, stone, tiles, carpet;
interacts with various thermostats;
light weight of 2.5 kg will not complicate delivery;
two cores inside provide increased heat transfer;
a thick layer of insulation protects against electric current.

cannot be laid under linoleum;
The connection cable has a large cross-section and is more difficult to hide unnoticed next to the outlet.

Electric heated floor Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

This is the best heated mat floor for a loggia, because its width allows you to cover a long area of up to 6 m with a width of 500 mm. The cable is laid on a foil base and attached to a mesh, which simplifies unfolding. The power of 450 W is optimal for maintaining a comfortable temperature on the balcony. The kit includes a wire for connection, a coupling and corrugated protection. The thickness of 5 mm does not require a large layer of mounting adhesive.

cold end 4 m long for connection;
Teflon internal insulation;
aluminum foil for screening;
heating to a temperature of 90 degrees;
certified by all GOST, CE standards;
installation in tile adhesive is simpler;
There are two cores inside for greater efficiency;
Suitable for tiles, porcelain stoneware, parquet boards, carpet.

It is more difficult to cut the mat for separate placement according to the area.

Electric heated floor Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

Equation 1260 W, 9 m2

This is the best heated floor for arranging a children's room due to the power of 1260 W, which allows you to use the mat as the main heating and will prevent children from catching a cold from playing on the floor. The cable is supplied in a green insulating sheath on a white mesh with a cold lead for connection and corrugated protection. It can heat up to 9 m2, which corresponds to most children's bedrooms.

two cores for increased heat transfer;
weight 3 kg;
power supply from a household network 220 V;
laying without screed in tile adhesive;
covers 9 m2 at once;
suitable for interaction with programmable thermostats;
can be laid under parquet board, laminate, linoleum, porcelain stoneware.

You need a good thermostat that clearly monitors the duration of switching on so that the increased heating power does not lead to a fire.

Electric heated floor Equation 1260 W, 9 m2

Caleo Grid 220 W 3 m2

These are the best heated film floors for heating a bathroom, because the technology is completely fireproof and is designed to work under tiles. The film covers an area of 3 m2 and can be cut in 25 mm increments to shorten it if necessary. Thin strips of carbon paste are laid on an anti-spark mesh to prevent arson. Film power of 660 W is optimal for heating small room and economical electricity consumption.

This is the best element for creating a water heated floor with an existing gas or solid fuel boiler, which allows you to lay a pipe over the entire area of the house without a single joint. The corrugated pipe easily bends at different angles, which is convenient for turns, steps and level changes. Stainless steel is not subject to corrosion, so it can be safely poured into a concrete screed and not be afraid of leaks.

annealed steel has high strength fracture-resistant and withstands pressure of 21 bar;
thermal conductivity coefficient 17 W (m*K);
the internal diameter of the pipe is 14 mm and the outer diameter is 15 mm, which is optimal for throughput and rapid circulation of the media;
operating temperature up to 150 degrees with short-term exposure to even 400 degrees;
complete fire safety;
lifetime warranty on the pipe itself;
high flexibility of the material with the task of any geometry;
is not afraid of freezing and does not burst in unheated rooms;
The corrugated structure withstands water hammer well.

needs many parts additional equipment(manifolds, water pump, thermostat, couplings);
crimping is required before pouring the screed, because subsequent repairs are complicated by limited access.

This is the best water heated floor in quality economical option for arranging individual heating in the apartment. The pipe is made of cross-linked polyethylene and is equipped with a protective layer that acts as a barrier against oxygen, which contributes to long-term service.

good flexibility allows you to lay the pipe with various turns;
it fits well with a European fitting, suitable for manifolds of any manufacturer;
protective barrier layer;
bending radius 80 mm;
outer diameter 16 mm is convenient for covering with floor materials;
12 mm internal diameter is optimal for circulation.

requires the purchase of a separate fitting for connection, manifolds, pump;
during installation, creases are possible, which will have to be corrected by heating with a hairdryer so that an obstruction does not form for the wearer;
needs crimping;
to avoid the appearance of bumps on the surface of the screed, a layer of up to 30 mm is needed;
must be stored and transported in packaging so as not to damage the protective layer.

To combined heating system worked fine, you need to know how to properly connect radiators and water heated floors.

In this article we will look at several piping schemes for a combined heating system, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of each scheme.

Connecting a heated floor to a single-pipe heating system (option 1)

The diagram below shows a single-pipe heating system, otherwise called “Leningradka”:

The diagram shows a boiler (floor-standing), a safety unit, shut-off valves (valves) on the supply pipe and on the return pipe, an expansion tank and a circulation pump in front of the boiler.

The radiator system is made in the form of two branches; On each branch - immediately after connecting to the main riser - a shut-off valve is also installed. Each radiator has two radiator valves: on the supply and on the return - in case it is necessary to replace a failed radiator without draining the entire system.

Supply and return – main pipeline – made by pipe polypropylene diameter 25 mm, radiators are connected to the main pipe with a 20 mm polypropylene pipe.

In a single-pipe system, section A should be of a smaller diameter (with a main pipe diameter of 25 mm, the pipe in this section has a diameter of 20 mm). (Why this is done was described in the next article.)

What's wrong with this system?

On the upper branch, the supply to the radiators is from above, and the return from the radiator is from below. This connection provides the greatest efficiency. On the lower branch, both the supply and return of the radiators are connected at the bottom of the radiator. With such a connection, the efficiency of radiators will be only 88%, as described in the article about effective and ineffective connections of radiators.

Another drawback: this connection scheme is not suitable for big houses, having about 30-40 radiators. That is, if a building has more than one floor, then when connecting radiators in this way, you need to make its own branch for each floor, separate from the others. In one-story buildings with large areas (more than 150 sq. m.), a different scheme is used, which will be discussed later, but for now we will talk about connecting a heated floor in the scheme under consideration.

How to connect a heated floor?

The coolant leaves the boiler at a temperature of 80 degrees. Having passed through all the radiators, the coolant in the return line already has a temperature of 50-55 degrees, which provides an ideal opportunity to connect a heated floor to the return line, as can be seen in the diagram.

Shut-off valves are also installed on the supply and return of the heated floor, making it possible to turn off the heated floor without stopping the radiator system. There is a bypass on the return line, with the help of which part of the coolant (if it is too hot in the return line for a heated floor) is directed to the boiler.

That is, if the bypass is closed, then all the coolant will flow through the heated floor. When the bypass is open, due to the greater resistance in the heated floor, the coolant will go directly to the boiler, and the floor will not heat up. It is clear that the bypass is not necessarily only completely open or only completely closed. It can be opened slightly to a certain extent to set the desired temperature in the heated floor.

Of course, bypass adjustment is a manual adjustment and is not very convenient, but not everyone has the opportunity to buy expensive mixing units with automatic valves. That is, bypass is a budget option, perhaps for the first time, until it becomes possible to install automation.

Connecting a heated floor to a single-pipe heating system (option 2)

The following is an example of a combined heating system:

Here the boiler is shown as a wall-mounted one, but this doesn’t matter, the boiler can be installed in any way you like.

The radiators are connected according to a single-pipe scheme: the return of the first radiator is the supply for the second, etc.

The disadvantage of this connection is that the first radiator is the hottest, and in the last one the water temperature is the lowest, which may simply not be enough to warm up the room in which this last radiator is installed.

Let's consider connecting a heated floor.

Unlike the previous scheme, here the heated floor is connected to the supply, and not to the return, of the radiator system. Since the coolant reaches the heated floor at the same temperature (80 degrees) as the radiators, there must be a temperature control (mixing unit) in front of the supply manifold. Without such temperature control, the heated floor can overheat, which will be uncomfortable for a person. In this case, one bypass unit shown in the diagram is not enough.

Connecting a heated floor to a two-pipe heating system

The following diagram is a two-pipe heating system, in which there is a separate supply pipe and a separate return pipe:

The disadvantage of such a system is the same as in the previous scheme: when large quantities radiators in the last radiator, the coolant has the lowest temperature.

But the warm floor, connected to the return line just before the boiler, has the most suitable temperature. A bypass is also installed here for manual control of the heated floor temperature, as in the first scheme.

Combined heating system in the apartment

This diagram illustrates how you can make a combined heating system - connect a heated floor - in the apartment. Of course, not all cities allow connecting a heated floor to an apartment’s heating system. In any case, the permission needs to be clarified. Nevertheless, I will provide a diagram.

The diagram shows vertical supply and return risers that run through all floors of the house. Above is a radiator connected to the risers. Below - instead of a radiator! – the underfloor heating system is connected: collectors, circulation pump and mixing unit for temperature control.

Through the supply pipe from the main riser, water with a temperature of 80 degrees comes to the mixing unit (that is, it seems like it should be at this temperature, but many living in apartments have the right to doubt, but oh well). In the mixing unit, more than cold water from the return of the heated floor, thus lowering the supply temperature to the desired value.

This, in fact, is the whole principle of operation of a heated floor in a city apartment. However, you must always remember to strictly control the temperature of the coolant in the heated floor and to ensure that your neighbors also have enough warmth. Well, I’ll repeat it again: first you need to find out from the relevant services whether it is allowed to have heated floors in your city/house.

In general, on my website there is a detailed article on how to make a water-heated floor in an apartment without having problems with the connection diagram shown above.

All the diagrams given in this article, despite the indicated disadvantages, are functional, and you can use them to install heating in your home. However, there is one principle; if you understand it, then combined heating system of any complexity you will be able to do it. What is this principle? Read the next article.

How to connect a heated floor to heating

Fact! To implement such a system, both a single-pipe and a two-pipe main are suitable, and it can be used both in an apartment and in a private house, including a wooden one. A special pump will provide constant circulation of hot water, which will significantly increase the efficiency of heating and return of coolant through the return pipes. You can design the circuit of an underfloor heating system yourself, taking into account the basic principles of pipe arrangement. With proper and high-quality installation, proper operation of the boiler and general thermal insulation, this heating method will be an effective replacement for batteries.

Connection and installation of a water floor in an apartment

In accordance with regulated standards, unauthorized unauthorized connection of water floor heating in an apartment to central heating is prohibited. Unauthorized connection with your own hands is fraught with irreversible consequences in terms of high-quality heating of neighboring apartments below or above, depending on the principle of hot water supply in the water central heating system. Connecting an additional structure to central heating can damage the overall hydraulics of the entire multi-story building. If there is autonomous water heating in the apartment, which is connected to the boiler, permission from utility services is not needed. This applies to houses of old construction; in new buildings it is possible to connect water floor heating.

Connecting a heated floor to individual heating

The types of connection for water floor heating depend on the general heating scheme; the following systems exist:

In a private house, the installation of this type of heating usually occurs during a major renovation, when the floors are reinforced and filled with cement mortar. Laying a water heating structure on a wooden floor is also possible if there is a frame made of additional joists and a new coating. It should be noted that installation on a wooden base requires effective thermal insulation on the underside of the structure. Also, laying on a wooden frame should ensure uniform distribution of the generated heat, for which purpose recesses can be equipped in the logs for the location of the pipeline.

The single-pipe water heating circuit, the so-called “Leningradka”, is considered one of the simplest and least expensive designs. This scheme and its installation provide for the presence of one main line for hot water; the circuit in this case only increases its total length. The operation of the installation is ensured by a circulation pump, without which the heating efficiency is insufficient. The presence in a private house of a boiler in which such a pump is installed also does not guarantee that the circuit will be as efficient as possible. For high-quality circulation of hot water through the pipes, the pump should be installed approximately in the middle of the line. In this case, the heated floor circuit must have a connection after the pump, and the return line must be connected after it. Control is carried out using special regulators that are installed on the open part of the pipeline. The circuit connected to a single-pipe heating system should not exceed 20 - 30 m. Otherwise, its operating efficiency is noticeably reduced. Particular attention should be paid to the location of the mixer for heated floors, which is also installed on the open part of the structure.

Important! The two-pipe type of connection can ensure normal functioning of a heated floor circuit, the length of which does not exceed 50 m.

You should also choose the correct pipe diameter for both the battery connection and the heated floor. The size of the main pipes connected to the boiler must be at least 32 mm.

The pipeline layout can be made according to the principle:

"Snakes";
Spirals.

The diameter of the pipe for laying a heated floor, when a single-pipe or two-pipe heating circuit is installed, should not exceed 18 mm.

You can connect a water heated floor with your own hands, while observing the basic requirements for installing such structures. Using this heating method will allow you to abandon the open radiator heating circuit, which is also acceptable in a private wooden house. If the external insulation of the building is insufficient or the wooden base is not insulated, it is recommended to use two heating principles together, depending on the efficiency of the boiler. The installation algorithm, which determines how to make a heated floor from heating, should include testing the operation with an open system, not filled with cement screed. The final formation of the floor covering in the house is possible after a certain period of time, making sure that the structure is intact and there are no leaks.

Owners of country houses do not always know how to make underfloor heating. Installing the system and connecting it yourself is very simple if you know a few nuances.

Installation of heated floors from an existing heating system is carried out based on the following principles:

a collector unit must be connected to existing radiators;
the installed structure must differ in standard pressure, which does not exceed 8-9 atm.

Connecting a water heated floor to existing system autonomous water heating

The latter type is characterized by the presence of two pipelines. One is designed to supply hot liquid, and the other is to remove cooled coolant back to the boiler for heating.

A single-pipe heating system is characterized by the presence of one pipeline through which water circulates. Therefore, the warm floor is connected to it according to the principle of another radiator. It is installed after the heating device, which allows you to reduce the temperature of the coolant without additional devices.

Materials for installing a warm water floor

Installation of water heated floor heating

To ensure the efficient functioning of a water heated floor, it is recommended to use pipes with a diameter of 2 cm. Preferred Material– polyethylene or metal. When using the latter option, a multilayer structure is used for pipelines, and the surface of the elements is covered with a special anti-corrosion layer.

Characteristics of Rehau pipes for underfloor heating

Polyethylene as a material is more preferable. It is not subject to electrochemical corrosion, which cannot be said about metal. Polyethylene pipes are also easier to install. They are sold in large-volume coils, which allows installation of an entire water circuit with one element. The main material for securing pipelines is plastic ties or special profiles, which are installed using dowels.

SANEXT pipe structure for heated floors

The circuit is installed according to the selected scheme. If the pipe material is polyethylene, then the radius of the coil should not be less than five of its diameters. If you bend the contour too much, creases will form. This is where the material is most susceptible to destruction during long-term use.

Installation of VALTEC water heated floors

The structure of the underfloor heating collector

The cheapest manifold is equipped only shut-off valves. This model does not provide the ability to adjust operating parameters, which makes the heated floor not always effective.

There are also models that are equipped with servos and pre-mixers. The first additional element provides full automation, and the second allows you to adjust the temperature of the coolant supplied to the heated floor.

Thermal insulation substrate

Pipelines are laid on a prepared base, which is formed using special heat-insulating substrates. Use the following options:

with foil coating. Thermal insulation material used is penofol. This substrate can be used when there is no need for high-quality insulation floors;

Laying foil underlay under a heated floor

Types of mineral wool insulation for heated floors

Connecting a heated floor to heating devices occurs in several ways, depending on the configuration of the existing system:

single-pipe scheme. The supply of the circuit with the circulating coolant is connected after the circulation pump, and the return - after. The operation of the system is adjusted using an installed manifold or ball valve;

Single pipe water heating system

Connection diagram for a one-pipe and two-pipe heating system without a circulation pump

Heated floor connection diagrams depending on design features

A system of pipelines with a circulating coolant is connected to existing heating devices using the following schemes:

application of balancing adjustment. The circuit includes a special tap. It allows you to reduce the fluid flow rate to the required level. In this way you can regulate the temperature of the warm water floor;

optimal and uniform heating of the entire floor surface, which is achieved by introducing additional control devices into the design;

Connection diagram of a water heated floor to the central system through a separate input

Connecting a heated floor to an existing heating system

The site's email often receives questions about how to connect one or more underfloor heating circuits to an existing heating system.

In this article you will learn how to do this. The underfloor heating circuit can be connected to a system, for example, radiator heating using a local underfloor heating connection module. To do this, you need to purchase this module or make it yourself.

Let's consider an everyday example: You have a radiator heating system installed in your house and you have installed a heated floor circuit, for example, in an extension and want to connect it to your heating system, but at the same time you are wondering how to do it correctly. And on the Internet, I’ll tell you, there is a lot of conflicting information regarding such a connection.

First, let's look at how the heating system should be designed, to which a heated floor circuit can be connected. The system must have its own circulation pump. It can be two-pipe, single-pipe (Leningrad) or gravity.

The first and most ideal option for connecting a heated floor circuit is a two-pipe radiator heating system. At the same time, we install the underfloor heating circuit and connect it to the supply and return pipelines of the radiator heating system. It can be done either through a heating floor connection module, or simply using two ball valves.

Connecting a heated floor to a single-pipe heating system

The second option is to connect the heated floor circuit to a radiator heating system called Leningradka. Or a simple one-pipe system. In this case, you need to connect the heated floor circuit supply after the circulation pump, and the heated floor return before the pump. In this case, you can also regulate the room temperature using a heated floor connection module or using ball valves.

Connecting a heated floor to a gravity heating system

The third option, for example, is purely gravitational horizontal system heating without a circulation pump. Since the system in this case is sloped, it is possible to connect a heated floor circuit, for example, in one room, using the same slope system. To do this, we connect the supply of the heated floor circuit at the beginning of the room, and the return of the circuit at the other end of the room. I want to say right away that you will have to tinker a lot to connect the heated floor circuit to the gravitational heating system. It’s easier to embed a circulation pump into such a system and make the connection according to the second option.

Connection conditions

Now let's talk about the conditions for a heated floor circuit connected to a radiator heating system. First, you need to understand that the installed radiator heating system is not rubber. Therefore, it has some limitations. And it must be done correctly. I very often see how people install radiator heating systems using, for example, a 25 mm PPR pipe. And in this case, how to connect heated floors to the system? That's why I always recommend installing pipes for a radiator heating system from diameter 32 mm and above.

Now about the length of the heated floor contour. The length should not exceed 40-50 meters for a two-pipe system, depending on the above characteristics. It can be mounted either in a snake starting, for example, from the outer walls, or in a spiral.

The length of the heated floor contour for Leningradka with forced circulation should not exceed 20-30 meters. Wherein if your outline is longer, then you need to divide it into equal parts.

In this case, I recommend using a metal-plastic pipe for installing the heated floor circuit, 16-18 mm maximum. DM 20 mm is used for gravity systems. Typically, the coolant temperature in radiator heating systems is at least 70 degrees. At the same time, PEX-AL-PEX pipes can withstand temperatures of 90 degrees. There are also analogues of cross-linked polyethylene pipes with an oxygen-impermeable layer, which can also withstand temperatures of 90 degrees Celsius.

Module for connecting a heated floor to a heating system

Now let's talk about the operation and design of the floor heating circuit connection module. The heated floor control module operates according to all the laws of the heated floor system. That is The module, using a thermal head, turns off or turns on the supply of coolant to the heated floor circuit. In this case, the module is mounted on the return line. For this purpose, an automatic air release device is installed in the module. To expel air from the heated floor circuit.

The module is assembled in a plastic box with a lid and is used for hidden installation inside the wall. There is a hole in the lid from which a thermostatic head looks out to measure the room temperature. And, consequently, the resumption or cessation of coolant circulation in the heated floor circuit.

The thermal head is mounted on a shut-off valve under the thermal head. The valve, in turn, is connected to a tee into which the air release machine is screwed. All this is located inside the box.

Installation of the heated floor circuit begins with the installation of the heated floor module . To do this, you need to choose a place indoors near the door. Precisely from the side of its opening. At a height of no more than 1000 mm. Make a recess in a brick wall or a frame in a plasterboard wall. It is also necessary to make a fine from the recess to the floor measuring 50x50 mm.

Now we install the heating floor control module. We install a heated floor pie according to all the laws of the genre ( details here) and connect the pipes of the heated floor circuit to the radiator heating system, following this diagram.

But things are not so smooth these days. Modules for connecting a heated floor circuit are expensive and cannot always be found. In this case, the module for the circuit can be made with your own hands.

To do this, take, for example, a panel for installing electricity. The shield or junction box can be plastic or metal. Junction boxes are also suitable. In this case, we choose the size 200x300 mm. 300 mm exactly in height. Now we take a direct radiator valve under the thermal head. Set the direction up. At the bottom we attach a fitting for connecting pipes. Could be abs or TM. We screw a ½ inch outlet from the top with the inner and external thread. We screw a ½-inch tee onto the outlet. We screw in the automatic air vent on top. At the bottom there is a fitting for connecting pipes. Could be abs or TM. Now, using metal clamps on a stud, we mount this structure into the shield.

We connect the heating circuit to the module and enjoy its operation and the heated floor.

eurosantehnik.ru

How to connect a heated floor to a water heating system

Connecting a water-heated floor to the heating system

Principles of technology for connecting a heated floor to a heating system

the coolant temperature must be reduced to at least +55°C;

Also on the list preparatory work includes the calculation of all operating parameters of a warm water floor, which depend on the characteristics of the existing heating system. It can be single-pipe or double-pipe.

How to connect a heated floor to a heating system

It is also necessary to take into account that it is impossible to achieve effective functioning of a heated floor in the presence of the gravitational principle of fluid movement. When the coolant passes from the pipeline large diameter to a lesser extent, the coolant will not be able to overcome the resulting hydraulic resistance.

More expensive options are equipped with additional valves. They allow you to adjust the operation of the heated floor when necessary.

The collector is mounted in a special box (material – galvanized steel), which corresponds to its size. It is installed at a certain height so that all the necessary pipelines can be connected to it.

Do-it-yourself underfloor heating manifold

Expanded polystyrene boards for water heated floors

Connection diagram for a water heated floor depending on the configuration of the existing heating

Two-pipe water heating system

Installation of a water heated floor system

unregulated. To operate the structure, a low-power circulation pump is used. Given this feature, the length of the circuit should not exceed 70 m. Its diameter is 16 mm, which provides a throughput of 5-10 l/min. This scheme is not effective, since there is no possibility of monitoring its operating parameters;

Three way thermostatic mixing valve design

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating from existing heating

Installing a water heated floor according to this scheme has several advantages:

Video: Installation of a single-pipe heating system with heated floors

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A warm water floor can be connected to a heating system in many ways. Let's look at four main schemes that are most often used in our realities.

But before moving on to their detailed study, it is worth paying attention to the minimum requirements that generally apply to heated floors. They can influence the choice of scheme in one way or another.

Restrictions and regulations

Let's start with the fact that water heated floors do not belong to high-temperature heating systems. According to the standards, the coolant temperature cannot be exceeded or heated above 55C.

In practice, heating occurs to a maximum of 35 or 45 degrees.

However, do not confuse the temperature of the coolant and the temperature of the floor surface. It can range from 26 to 31 degrees maximum.

Also, don't forget about the circulation pump. A warm floor is still a separate independent circuit. The pump can be either built into the boiler or mounted outside it.

With the help of a pump, it is easier to fulfill another requirement regarding temperature differences. For example, between supply and return, the difference should be no more than 10 degrees.

But when choosing a pump, do not overdo it with the flow rate of the coolant. The maximum permissible value here is 0.6 m/s.

Direct connection diagram

You have a boiler, after which all safety fittings + a circulation pump are installed. In some wall options boilers, the pump is initially built into its body.

For floor-standing units you will have to install it separately. From this boiler, the water is first directed to the distribution manifold, and then disperses through the loops. After which, having completed the passage, it returns through the return line to the heat generator.

Specification of materials and equipment using the example of Valtec

With this scheme, the boiler is directly adjusted to the desired temperature of the TPs themselves. You don't have any additional radiators or radiators here.

What are the main features worth paying attention to here? Firstly, with such a direct connection, it is advisable to install a condensing boiler.

In such schemes, operation at relatively low temperatures is quite optimal for the condenser. In this mode it will achieve its highest efficiency.

If you use a regular gas boiler, you will soon say goodbye to your heat exchanger.

The second nuance concerns solid fuel boilers. When you have it installed, for direct connection to heated floors, you will also need a buffer tank.

It is needed to limit temperature regime. Solid fuel boilers It is very difficult to regulate the temperature directly.

Three-way valve circuit

In the vast majority of houses, this combined underfloor heating system is installed.

Specification of materials and equipment

It includes:

presence of heating radiators with heating up to 70-80C

separate TP circuit with an average water temperature of 40C

The main question here is how to get a flow of water for heated floors from the 80 degrees going to the batteries at half the temperature.

The problem is solved using a three-way thermostatic valve.

It is mounted on the supply pipe. At the same time, do not forget to install a circulation pump after it.

Colder water is taken from the return of the heated floor. Mixing with hot water The coolant coming from the boiler acquires the reduced temperature required for underfloor heating.

The disadvantage of this scheme is that you will not be able to accurately limit and regulate the flow of cooled water from the return. What does this mean?

The fact is that both water that is too cool and, vice versa, water that is overheated beyond normal will periodically enter the pipes of heated floors.

The efficiency and comfort of the entire system suffers because of this.

An unprincipled person may not notice this, however, these temperature differences are present in this circuit, and there is no escape from them. Of course, time periods of supply of hot and unheated coolant can be compensated by the thermal inertia of the screed concrete.

But this is all relative. You can never accurately calculate the optimal thickness with such heating.

The advantages of such a combined scheme with a three-way valve:

easy installation

affordable price equipment

This installation method justifies itself if you have a small apartment or house. And you don’t suffer from excessive demands for super-comfortable living conditions.

Scheme with pump-mixing unit

This diagram also applies to combined systems when you have both radiators and heated floors at the same time.

However, here, instead of a 3-way valve, a more expensive pumping and mixing unit is used.

Specification of materials

In fact, the cooled return flow is also mixed into the main boiler feed here. But thanks to the balancing valve, cooled water can be mixed in in certain doses and given proportions.

This will ensure the precisely specified temperature of the coolant entering the TP tubes through the manifold.

This is the most effective and most comfortable scheme. The pumping and mixing unit itself can be assembled in various variations.

Depending on your needs and financial capabilities, the following components may be included:

Scheme with thermostatic kit for one loop

This heating system is implemented using small thermal installation kits. They are initially designed to attach only one single loop.

Here you don’t have to install complex manifolds, mixing groups, etc. It is designed to heat rooms with a maximum area of 15-20 m2.

It looks like a small plastic box in which are mounted:

coolant temperature limiter

limiter responding to ambient temperature in a heated room

air vents

Hot water flows directly into the floor heating loop without any manifolds or any regulators. This means that its initial temperature reaches a maximum of 70-80 degrees, and cooling occurs right in the loop itself.

Due to the presence of only one small loop, no additional pumps not used here. The pump installed in the boiler itself must handle the flow of water.

Most often, people use such kits in 3 cases:

1 You want to make a heated floor in a small area (bathroom, toilet, balcony) and not spend a lot of money on a mixing unit with a pump.

2 You big square heated floors on the first floor of the house, and there is a remote bathroom on the second.

In order not to pull one single loop from the first to the second floor, plus the use of air vents there, you can use this inexpensive solution.

3 You have already installed a water heated floor system and suddenly your wife remembers that she would like one more loop, and the distribution manifold has already run out of free outlets.

Again, as an alternative, you can use a thermostatic kit.

The presence of a cold floor in the house leads to a certain discomfort, especially in the winter season, since even a boiler turned on at full power is not able to warm the surface to the optimal level. This phenomenon is due to the fact that a traditional heating system can only heat an air mass, and not a dense and massive floor.

What to do?

One way to solve the problem described above is to connect a heated floor to the heating system.

Carrying out such actions leads to the following positive aspects:

High economic efficiency.
Safety.
Almost imperceptible noise level.
Unobtrusiveness.

A person who has a water heated floor installed in his house can set the required temperature at any time. In addition, such a design can evenly heat any room.

Only accurate calculations and measurements can determine correct connection warm floor to the heating system, which, in turn, will significantly reduce utility bills.

Advantages of water heated floors

Almost every person believes that heated floors have only advantages. Firstly, the heat comes from the bottom up, therefore, everything will warm up correctly - your legs and head will be comfortable at the same time. This same point is the main difference between underfloor heating and radiator heating; if the latter is present, a rise occurs warm air to the ceiling, and then lowering the cooled one to the feet, which is not only less comfortable, but also uneconomical.

This same heat transfer feature allows water warm floor improve indoor air quality. The operation is based on thermal radiation, not convection, therefore, the circulation of harmful bacteria, pollen and dust is significantly reduced, which has a positive effect on air quality. People suffering from allergies or bronchial asthma simply need such heating.

Another undeniable advantage of a water heated floor is that by the time installation and finishing works it will not be visible.

You can completely remove the radiators and arrange the furniture based on your own wishes, without fear that the room will not warm up completely.

Installing a water heated floor in a house allows you to provide different levels of temperature in the rooms depending on individual needs. All you need to do is purchase and connect

Another undoubted advantage of water heated floors is energy efficiency. The reason for this is extremely simple - the coolant in radiator system usually warmed up to 80-90 degrees, when for optimal heating through a heated floor, 35-50 degrees are needed. Thanks to the large placement area, the lower temperature allows you to warm up the room in the same way as a hot battery, but using much less energy, which leads to reduced costs.

Extremely simple maintenance cannot be ignored. Installation and proper commissioning guarantee uninterrupted operation of the water heated floor without human intervention.

Optimal connection diagram

To ensure excellent performance, the owner must have a diagram for connecting the heated floor to the heating system, drawn up by a competent engineer. In this case, the needs of the owner and the characteristics of the house should be taken into account. For example, the design of a water floor is influenced by: the area and shape of the heated room, its layout and designated zones, arranged furniture and Appliances, as well as the number of external walls in the room, which are the main source of cold.

The most common connection of a heated floor to a heating system is a spiral pipe installation. True, if you plan to heat a large room, then you can use a laying method such as a loop or snake.

Regardless of which scheme you choose, it is impossible to make a water heated floor without: a circular pump comb, pipes, ball valves, fittings, and other equipment.

Single pipe heating system

Connecting a heated floor to a single-pipe heating system (“Leningradka”) requires the presence of: a heat exchanger (floor-standing boiler), return and supply pipes equipped with shut-off valves, an expansion tank located in front of the boiler, a circulation pump and a safety unit.

In this case, the supply pipeline is located immediately behind the circulation pump, and the return pipeline is located in front. To regulate the temperature in the room, shut-off valves installed on the insets are used. This can be either a valve or a ball valve.

The outlet heat exchanger has a temperature of 80 degrees, and by the time it enters the return pipe, it drops to 50 degrees. This is the optimal temperature for underfloor heating. Using shut-off valves installed in the supply and return pipes, you can completely shut down the system without stopping the operation of the radiators. In addition, you can install a bypass on the return line, which will allow you to regulate the temperature.

Technological features

Connecting a heated floor to a heating system requires significant modernization, as the quantitative and qualitative characteristics of the heating circuit change.

The preparatory stage involves solving the following issues:

How to connect the manifold module to existing pipes?
How to reduce the temperature of the water that circulates in the heating system to the optimal value (approximately 55 degrees)?
How to achieve optimal pressure (8-9 atm.)?

Suitable heating systems

If the house already has a coolant, then the methods for connecting the heated floor to the heating system will depend on its type.

If we are talking about a single-pipe system, then an additional radiator will be required.

The two-pipe system already assumes the presence of pipes with hot liquid and pipes necessary for the return of water to the coolant for the next heating.

Correctly determining the order of connecting the water supply and collector results in the simplest and most reliable way to connect a heated floor.

Important! It is undesirable to use the gravitational principle of fluid advancement, since it leads to the fact that the water cannot cope with the hydraulic resistance formed due to different diameters, as a result of which the operation of the system can be completely blocked.

About the elements of a heated floor connection diagram

Connecting a heated floor to an existing heating system requires the presence of the following standard elements:

Pipes (preferably polymer).
Heated floor displacement unit (its main task is to maintain the optimal water temperature - approximately 50 degrees).
Collectors that distribute liquid along circuits.
Thermostats are devices that allow you to control the system.

Mixing unit

Connecting a heated floor is necessary to solve the following problem: the coolant leaving the boiler has a temperature of about 90 degrees, and a heated floor requires no more than 55 degrees. It can be connected to both new and existing structures.

The main function is to reduce the temperature of the coolant by mixing water from the return pipe into the supply pipe.

Operating principle and installation procedure of the mixing unit

Includes pump and three-way valve. Stores may also offer a kit that includes a manifold and expansion tank.

Installation mixing unit involves choosing one of the following methods:

Attachment to the collector, and it does not matter which side.
The location of the mixing unit is in the boiler room, and the collector is somewhere else, for example, in the living room.

The second method allows you to get rid of the sound of a running pump.

Types of thermostats

Installing a heated floor thermostat makes it possible to use any heating device without fear that it may overheat or fail. That is why this unit can be found not only in this system, but also in an iron or kettle.

If we are talking about an electric warm field, then the thermostat will not only allow you to set optimal temperature, but also significantly save electrical energy.

The coolant fluid requires a slightly different temperature control procedure - a three-way valve or circulation pump.

Some important nuances

Despite the fact that water heated floors do not have obvious disadvantages, there are still several important nuances that cannot be ignored:

First of all, you need to make sure that installing a concrete screed will not cause difficulties. As an option, you can pay attention to aluminum panels, however, their cost is much higher, and compared to a concrete floor, they lose heat faster.
The area of the room in which it is planned to install a warm water floor must be at least 20-25 m2. If you need to insulate a bathroom or toilet, then it is better to use an electric heating field.
You need to determine in advance flooring. Ideal option tiles are considered, since porcelain stoneware has the highest thermal conductivity.
Main characteristic feature warm water floor under a concrete screed consists of slow heating. It is recommended to use this type of heating to maintain the temperature, but not to turn it on and off constantly. So, for example, if you need to warm up a room that has been empty for a long time, you need to turn on the heated floor in advance, since it will take a certain time to warm up.

In general, a water heated floor is the best for a cottage, among the undeniable advantages of which are: simple installation, long service life and low level energy consumption.

Single-pipe underfloor heating system. How to connect a heated floor to heating

Connecting a heated floor to individual heating

Administrative difficulties

Possible solutions for laying “warm floor” pipes

How much will the floor surface rise?

Thermal insulation mats

Prices for mats for heated water floors

Which pipes are optimal for “warm floors”

Which styling “pattern” to choose

Prices for water pipes and fittings

Features of connecting “warm floor” circuits to an existing heating system

The process of laying and connecting pipes, launching a “warm floor” system

Video: screed option over “warm floor” pipes

Teplolux Eco 850 W, 60 m

Devimat DTIR-150, 450 W, 3 m2

Equation 1260 W, 9 m2

Caleo Grid 220 W 3 m2

Connecting a heated floor to a single-pipe heating system (option 1)

Connecting a heated floor to a single-pipe heating system (option 2)

Connecting a heated floor to a two-pipe heating system

Combined heating system in the apartment

How to connect a heated floor to heating

Connection and installation of a water floor in an apartment

Connecting a heated floor to individual heating

Materials for installing a warm water floor

Thermal insulation substrate

Heated floor connection diagrams depending on design features

Connecting a heated floor to an existing heating system

Connecting a heated floor to a single-pipe heating system

Connecting a heated floor to a gravity heating system

Connection conditions

Module for connecting a heated floor to a heating system

How to connect a heated floor to a water heating system

Principles of technology for connecting a heated floor to a heating system

Connection diagram for a water heated floor depending on the configuration of the existing heating

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating from existing heating

Video: Installation of a single-pipe heating system with heated floors

What to do?

Advantages of water heated floors

Optimal connection diagram

Single pipe heating system

Technological features

Suitable heating systems

About the elements of a heated floor connection diagram

Mixing unit

Operating principle and installation procedure of the mixing unit

Types of thermostats

Some important nuances

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