Carpenter's scraper as a unique tool. Do-it-yourself professional scraper made from a diamond disc

Perhaps the most difficult task for a novice cooper who has undertaken to collect all necessary tool for his workshop, this is the production of cooper's staples. This question is far from being as simple as it seems at first glance, and if there is no experienced master-mentor nearby with his own set of tools, then you can get into trouble by making staples with incorrect parameters, which will be impossible to use.

In general, a stapler is a universal tool. Once upon a time in Rus' they were used instead of planes. The same scraper can both “drive chips” from a workpiece and remove thin, transparent shavings from it. But different staples were made for different purposes. So, for example, a straight scraper, which carpenters use to mark and scrape logs, is completely unsuitable for cooperage. It's all about two important parameters that determine the functionality of the stapler. This is the angle between the plane of the blade and the plane of the handles, as well as the angle between the handles themselves.

Straight cooper's scraper

A straight cooper's scraper is usually used for planing the outer face of the stave on a cooper's bench. They can also be used to chamfer the bottom or end of the product. Depending on the type of work, straight staplers can have different blade lengths.

Sketch No. 1 shows the optimal angle of spread of the handles of such a stapler. pay attention to the most important condition: The plane of the blade and the plane of the handles must be parallel!(shown in the left view).

Scraper "Zhelobikha"

I confess honestly - I use a straight stapler exclusively for chamfering. It is not very convenient for them to remove the outer surface of the rivet, especially if it is wide. It is much more convenient to work with another tool - a “gutter” stapler.

Sketch No. 2 shows its main parameters. Please pay Special attention for condition No. 1: the center lines of the handles must intersect the level line of the top point of the arc of the cutting part. Thanks to this, the stapler works “in both directions,” i.e., it can be used to process both the outer and inner faces of the riveting!

There are two ways to process the outer surface of the stave on a cooper's bench with a gutter - either the concave side (relative to the master) or the convex side. In the first case, the groove works on the principle of a Scherhebel plane, providing quick, rough sharpening of the workpiece. In the second, it forms a semicircular surface, which remains only to be completed with a joiner's jointer. To process the inner face of the riveting, you can use the concave side of the gutter. Rough processing of rivets with a groove is faster than with an electric planer.

It is also convenient to use the gutter for cutting out and carving wooden hoops.

In my workshop there are only two standard sizes of gutters (indicated in sketch No. 2). Large, I plan rivets of any width and for any diameter of the tub. Well, the smaller one is used exclusively for hoops.

Improved semicircular cooper's bracket

Semicircular staples are used when processing the internal surfaces of tub frames. For any semicircular staple, it is important to observe optimal inclination handles shown in sketch No. 3. It is better to make the handles parallel to each other, otherwise when scraping you will knock your wrists and hands off the edges of the frame.

A conventional semicircular staple with a constant bending radius of the blade has significant drawback. If you make its radius close to the inner radius of the tub, then its edges will touch the inner surface of the frame where it is not at all necessary, including on the already processed and cleaned side. If you reduce the radius of the scraper, it will work like a sherhebel plane, leaving a groove after each pass, which will still need to be removed somehow.

Therefore, it is better to make the bending radius of the canvas variable. In its central part the radius is large, close to the parameters of the frames of your tubs, and at the edges it is reduced. Such sharply rounded edges will never be touched by anything, and the inner surface will turn out to be quite smooth.

The bracket with the parameters indicated in sketch No. 3 is my most popular one. It is the smallest, but with its help I process almost all products. He does small and medium ones cleanly, and for large and very large ones he does a rough cut. For finishing them, I have two more standard sizes, which are quite enough for the entire range of manufactured products.

Bondar one-handed staplers

Staples are used for the same purpose as semicircular staples, with the only difference being that they are intended for products of the smallest sizes. Accordingly, the smaller your products, the smaller the radius and width of the staple should be.

Everything that is said about semicircular staples is also true for staples. In sketch No. 4 you can see that the edges of the bracket are below the horizontal center line are rounded inwards. The intersection points of the horizontal axial and the staple blade are the points of intersection of two different radii. How much smaller to make the second radius - see for yourself, it depends on the size of your products.

A little exotic

In the process of mastering the craft, each master from time to time encounters various tasks, the solution of which will require inventing special tool or device. There are, in addition to the basic ones, a great variety of different highly specific cooperage staples. As an example, consider a unique instrument, invented and made by a master I know.

This staple does not have a single surface that could be called basic. Handles diverge into different sides, moreover, in planes almost perpendicular to each other. The canvas has a smoothly changing radius of curvature, and even wraps just as smoothly with “Mobius”. None of my friends would undertake to draw this bracket, but even if they did, it is unlikely that anyone would be able to read the drawing. So here I'm just showing appearance from different angles.

tool steel 9ХС and hardened to 55...58 HRC. The bending radius of the blade is 200mm, sharpening is a straight bevel down. The 140mm long handles are made of beech and oiled. Length of the cutting part - 170mm or 270mm, width 36 mm

To select the desired staple, click on the product name

from 3600 p

Bracket PETROGRAD N3, 170mm (semicircular, R60)

A semicircular scraper with handles curved upward will be convenient for various operations in carpentry: precise adjustment of logs to size, quick removal of material, as well as making recesses. The blade is hand forged from tool steel 9XC and hardened to 55...58 HRC. Blade bending radius - 60mm, sharpening - lenticular . The 140mm long handles are made of beech and oiled. Length of the cutting part - 170mm, width 36mm. Blade thickness - 6mm, sharpening angle - 30 degrees. Manufactured in Petrograd (Russia).

3500 p

Bracket PETROGRAD N5, 270mm (Swedish type)

Forged bracket, curved in two directions has the advantage ahead of other non-linear staplers, in convenience and control. The blade is hand forged from tool steel U8A and hardened to 55...58 HRC. The 140mm long handles are made of beech and oiled. Length of the cutting part - 270mm, width 36mm. Blade thickness - 6mm, sharpening angle - 30 degrees. The total length of the staple is 650 mm. Manufactured in Petrograd (Russia).

5200p

Scraper PETROGRAD N7, for cleaning grooves in logs (Meddragskniv)

Scraper PETROGRAD N7, for cleaning grooves in logs (Meddragskniv). A complete analogue of the Norwegian skebel Meddragskniv. Blade thickness - 6 mm, selectable groove radius - 35 mm, distance between handles 400 mm, sharpening angle 30 degrees. Forged hardened blade made of 65G steel, cutting edge hardness - 55-58HRС. Total weight - ~1.1kg. Handle length - 140mm. The handles are made of beech.
Designed for finishing the lunar groove after an adze (removes the scaly effect). The shape of the arms of the staple allows it to be rotated during operation to grind the entire surface of the groove. Forged by hand.

Production - carpentry and carpentry tools factory PETROGRAD.
Made in Russia.

8400p

John, the author of the YouTube channel “John Heisz - I Build It,” talks about making another tool - a staple, which, although not very often used in carpentry, is, nevertheless, simply necessary. In addition, he will tell you about very reliable way fastening tool handles.

Materials.
— Hardwood
— Old diamond disc for concrete
— Two-component epoxy resin
— Sandpaper
— Impregnation for wood
— Thick copper wire.

Manufacturing process.
Making a scraper is quite simple from an old, unnecessary diamond disc for concrete, as the master demonstrates to us.

In his own words, he sketches out the shape of the future scraper from memory, recalling the shape of similar products in photos on the Internet, while trying to fit as much as possible into the dimensions of the disk.

And he begins marking from the front edge of the knife, its tip, which will be approximately 5 inches long. This is a lot for a small skewer.

Then cutting disc John cuts down a small piece of steel to see if it can be hardened. This is steel good quality and it will give a good descent. The author had problems with the first cutting disc: it got stuck in the cut and overheated the metal. John replaced it with a newer one and it worked much better. The fact is that the steel of most of these discs is already hardened, and it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to cut with such a tool. Of course, this is not a problem for a plasma cutter! However, in this case, grinding to a given shape will take a lot of time.

Master applies here an ordinary grinder, although it also has a battery in its arsenal. The thing is that a cordless machine is good in cases where you need to make a quick cut or in jobs where you don’t need to apply a lot of force. Otherwise, it is better to resort to a regular corded tool. The discs on it last longer and cut faster at higher speeds.

After cutting out the main part, he slightly refines difficult places with a sharpening disc. For this kind of work it is better to have a spare one. grinder with a regular sanding disc to quickly switch from one to the other.

I marked the future blade and secured the workpiece with a clamp.

He then saws down at a right angle, and makes cuts on the edges of the future handles, the purpose of which will be announced a little later.

Initially, the author intended to carry out all the work on sharpening the blade using a manual whetstone. But, since he had a tape in his arsenal grinding machine, the master did not refuse his services.

In front of you homemade machine Roger with 2x72 inch tape. All the necessary plans for its assembly are available at this link.
To guide the blade at the desired angle and maintain it, John secured a piece of board to the machine.

The next step might not have been taken, since the author mentioned that this is already hardened steel. Besides, he didn't do anything that would cause her to overheat. After heating the blade to a slightly crimson color, I simply cooled it in water.

John tried not to overdo the cleaning and limited himself to only removing rust and scale that formed after heating the steel. But if you wish, you can bring the product to shine.

Next, the author cuts a piece of maple for the handles. And then the craftsman finds interesting solution how to attach them to the blade. He makes slots wide enough for the shank to fit right into the circular saw. It's much faster and easier than drilling out these slots.

And then he will fill the open part of the groove with a board of the same thickness.

Now the reason why John cut these slots on the ends of the shank... The most unexpected and dangerous thing that can happen while using a staple is when the handle suddenly slips off the shank. To prevent such a development of events, the author bends the ends of the shank using pliers, in this way, after warming them up properly.

And then immediately puts the handle on them. Thus, he burned grooves in the handle for the “mustache.” Charming technical solution, is not it?

Repeat the same action with the second handle.

Having generously coated the grooves with epoxy resin, install the handles on the shanks and drive a suitable board into the groove.

After polymerization epoxy resin, cuts off the excess board and carefully sands it with sandpaper.

Initially the master planned to use copper tube for a safety ring, but later decided to use copper wire, wrapping it several times around the handle. This is ordinary copper wire from power cable, from which the insulation was previously removed.

This turned out to be quite difficult. This work should have been done before the handle was mounted on the shank. Then it would be possible to bend the wire more accurately to the shape.

John then coats the copper coil with a thick layer of epoxy to hold it in place. At the end, the author applies a couple of layers linseed oil on the handle, more for beauty than functionality.

A day for drying and finishing.

Of course, impregnation with linseed oil is mandatory.

First testing on a piece soft wood. Cuts great!

This is the instrument John came up with.

Thanks John for detailed master class, and especially for the reliable way to attach the handles!

Scraper (plane, planer, koroder) is an ancient tool for carpenters in the form of a straight or curved knife with handles at the ends, designed for stripping bark from logs and their primary planing, as well as the main tool for manually planing rivets in the manufacture of cooperage utensils (tub, tub and so on.).

Skobel (another name is plow ) is used for stripping logs when cutting log houses ; after stripping, the wood becomes light-colored, without traces of bark. The walls of a log house, treated “to look like a scraper,” do not require additional cladding or finishing and are attractive with the natural beauty of the wood. At the same time, it is impossible to level the surface of the log with a scraper - there are irregularities that follow the shape of the trunk, and burrs from the ax on the knots.

In general, a stapler is a universal tool. Once upon a time in Rus' they were used instead of planes. The same scraper can both “drive chips” from a workpiece and remove thin, transparent shavings from it. But different staples were made for different purposes. So, for example, a straight scraper, which carpenters use to mark and scrape logs, is completely unsuitable for cooperage. It's all about two important parameters that determine the functionality of the stapler. This is the angle between the plane of the blade and the plane of the handles, as well as the angle between the handles themselves.

Straight cooper's scraper

A straight cooper's scraper is usually used for planing the outer face of the stave on a cooper's bench. They can also be used to chamfer the bottom or end of the product. Depending on the type of work, straight staplers can have different blade lengths.

Life does not stand still, it moves. Something dies out in it, making way for the new, but something remains unshakable, like fashion - everything new is well forgotten old. About skobel and his modern application my story.

I was prompted to master this instrument by an incident when a friend gave me several bags of barn rubbish, left as an inheritance from my father-in-law, a well-known craftsman in our area. Crazy with luck, I took out from my bags either a rare selection, or a set of kalevok - a true gift of fate, and even a surprise - a curved forged knife, shaped like a sickle, with two vertical handles. This outlandish tool turned out to be a stapler, which I had seen many times in pictures, but had never held in my hands. Immediately, intuitively picking it up, I tried it on a log and realized that I wanted to master working with it.

It turned out that the skobel is much older than I could have imagined. Already in the Middle Paleolithic, people used stone scrapers, flint plates with an arched working edge beveled inward. With the advent of iron in everyday life, the staple takes on its familiar form and no longer changes. It served for stripping and scraping bark. It was stripping, and not cutting, of the material that determined such a long life for this instrument. Let's remember the structure of a tree: bark, cambium, bast, sapwood, heartwood and pith. The cambium layer and the bast part of the tree are the natural protection of wood from external influences. Preservation, and not cutting of bast, is the main task of working with a stapler. By prying up the bark and tearing it off, the scraper crushes the back surface, smoothes the bast to a characteristic shine, compacting and leaving the wood undisturbed. The movement of the scraper is possible only along the cambium, since it is soft and loose in structure, and it is absolutely unacceptable for the tool to get stuck or split the wood. The movement of the staple is directed towards itself, by the force of two hands, smoothly and without jerking, in order to tear off, rather than cut, the material and, of course, along the growth of the fibers, from the butt part to the top. After cleaning with a scraper, the surface of the wood takes on a characteristic, waxy White color. The wood begins to shine, as if after waxing or varnishing. If such a visual effect is observed, then technological process is performed correctly. The walls of a log house, made of logs “treated as a scraper,” usually no longer need additional protection and attract attention with their unique and natural beauty.

But with a stapler you can also carry out rough, as most literature says, primitive planing. I don’t know why it’s primitive? Having sharpened the cutting edge a little, it is very convenient for me to trim, clean and adjust the thermal groove with a scraper when knitting a log house. I also use it to clean and adjust the corner bowls. But this is an exception rather than a recommended practice. Because the proverb is still alive: “After dinner, mustard is like an ax after a scraper.”

In the recent past, debarking logs for scraping was widespread, as people tried to use as much as possible natural protection, without having yet come up with impregnations and performing many operations manually. Today, many companies also offer clients “scraped” logs, but in practice they remove the layer by planing, and not by crushing the bark with scrapers until the bast shines. Of course, such logs are sold at a higher price, and if you agreed to pay for this work, try to control it.