Why leaves turn pale in tulips. Fungal diseases of tulips
Have you ever seen large, healthy tulips in amateur gardens? Probably very, very rare. Although these joyful and bright first spring flowers are loved by everyone. People enthusiastically buy bulbs and plant them in their gardens in the hope that now they will surely admire the luxurious flowers every spring. Indeed, tulips differ from other bulbs, such as daffodils and hyacinths, in that they feel great in central Russia. But over the years, and sometimes already on next year after planting, the bulbs become smaller, and then completely disappear. Surely this has happened with you. There are many reasons for this. Let's try to figure out the most common mistakes in tulip cultivation.
IMMEDIATELY should exclude such gross violation technologies, as non-annual digging of bulbs. To better understand what is the matter here, let us briefly consider the morphology and biology of this plant. You buy the bulbs in August - September. By this time, the large onion is already fully formed flower bud... It is located in the center of the bulb at the top of the bottom. It is densely surrounded by 4-5 juicy, white scales, also sitting on the bottom. The structure of the onion will be clearly visible if you cut it in half lengthwise. But it is usually a pity to destroy a tulip, so do the same with a regular bulb. onions- their structure is similar.
Bulb
The tulip bulb is dressed in dense scales on the outside Brown... And under it are juicy scales containing a supply nutrients enough to kick out the stem with leaves and bloom. This is the basis for forcing (obtaining flowers) bulbous in winter and spring. The tulip bulb is annual, although the plant itself is considered a perennial. The fact is that buds are laid between the scales of the bulb, which develop during the growth of the stem and flowering and by the end of the growing season turn into new bulbs, in the amount of 1-5 pieces. They sit in the nest, clad in the shell of a completely depleted mother bulb. The largest of these new bulbs is called replacement, and the others are called smaller ones - bulbs of the second or third analysis, even smaller - children.
If the nest of new bulbs remains in the ground, then they will lack everything - food, water, air. This is the same as non-thinned seedlings of other crops - full-fledged plants will never grow from them. But in a tulip, all this is hypertrophied. Let me explain why.
Tulip is an ephemeroid with a very short growing season. After all, we plant the bulbs at the end of September, in October they take root (the roots grow up to 20 cm), bloom in May, and in June the aboveground part of them already dries up. And during these four months, the bulb must take root in such a way as to transfer winter frosts, in the spring to form a stem with leaves and a flower or flowers, as well as to give a whole nest of new bulbs, moreover, replacing good conditions not inferior in size to the mother's bulb, and often surpasses it. Now we can conclude that, leaving the tulips un-dug, it will no longer be possible to restore their original qualities.
In addition to the annual digging, tulips for the same reasons require major preparation of the planting site. The plant must have enough nutrition to go through such a vigorous cycle of development and growth. Along with the quality of the planting material, it is the preparation of the land that will determine the success of the culture. The site should be chosen on a warm slope or flat surface, in the sun or in partial shade (diffused shade of trees), groundwater should not be closer than 60 cm from the surface. Tulips love the soil of medium or light loamy, with a neutral reaction, very high fertility and cultivated to a depth of at least 35 cm. This dosage is recommended for lean lands, with an average of 25 kg. organic fertilizers... It is not recommended to plant tulips on heavy, clayey soils and in damp places.
The land is prepared in the spring of the year of planting or in the fall of the previous year. In addition to organic fertilizers (it can also be humus or compost), lime is added - 200-400 g and simple superphosphate - 100 g per 1 m2. Double digging is used, and half of the fertilizers and all of the superphosphate are mixed with the lower layer of the earth, and the second half with the upper one. Sand is added to heavy lands - up to 20 kg per 1 m2. In summer, the site can be occupied with annual flowers or green vegetables, but it must be vacated a month before planting, at the end of August. Dig up, having previously scattered potassium magnesium - 100 g per 1 m2.
The best time to plant tulips in central Russia is from September 20 to 30. It is important to maintain the planting depth - there are two more bulb heights above the bulb. For large ones, it will be 10-12 cm from the bottom. And the distance between the bulbs is at least two of their diameters - 7-8 cm. Small bulbs and the baby are planted smaller and denser. Sand is poured under the bottom with a layer of 3 cm, and the onion with the head is also covered with it, so that there are fewer fungal diseases.
Landing
Inspect the bulbs carefully before planting. Their skin should be clean, without spots, and the bulb itself should be firm and heavy. Remove the skin from suspicious ones and, if spots appear on the white surface, destroy the onion. For prophylaxis, treat healthy bulbs with 0.2% foundationol for 30 minutes, dry and plant.
To get large flowers, extra bulbs are usually planted with a diameter of more than 4 cm and 1 parsing, with a diameter of 3.6-4 cm - for the Darwin hybrids class, in other classes, including Liliaceae, Terry, Fringed, Parrot, bulbs smaller in nature.
Care
Planting care is also important, although with good preparation of the land, it is insignificant. If the autumn is dry, then the plantings must be watered, and so that moisture saturates the ground to a root depth of 35 cm.Then they mulch with weathered peat with a layer of 3 cm.In mid-October, add 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 for better root growth. With the onset of frost, they cover them with spruce branches - from mice and in case of a winter with little snow. The bulbs not only take root in the fall, but also form a sprout that almost reaches the surface of the earth. That is why tulip tubes appear so early in spring, almost directly from under the snow. In harsh winters, the flower bud can be damaged.
In the spring, spruce branches are harvested and the plantings are immediately fed with ammonium nitrate in the same dose as in the fall. After 10 days, they are fed again with the same nitrate with the addition of potassium sulfate - 20 g, and after another two weeks - with one potassium sulfate, also 20 g per 1 m2. Tulips are also given 3-4 deep watering, and they are watered before the yellowing of the aerial part, about two weeks after the end of flowering. It is at this time that new bulbs continue to grow. Faded flowers must be pinched off. This technique is called decapitation. For a bouquet, tulips are cut with one or two leaves, otherwise good bulbs will not work.
Dig up the bulbs at the time of the yellowing of the aerial part, without waiting for complete drying. Otherwise, the nest will crumble and some of the bulbs will remain in the ground. These bulbs will go deeper into the ground every year, it will be difficult to dig them out. The dug out bulbs are dried under a canopy or in a shed for 3-4 days, then cleaned and stored in a well-ventilated room (for example, in the attic) at a temperature of 20 C until mid-August, and then at 17 C before planting, constantly monitoring their condition.
For many years, red tulips have been growing in my dacha, which are still from the previous owners. They bloomed regularly, although I dug them out from time to time (when there was time). But then she retired and decided to plant beautiful modern varieties. And something doesn't work with them. Firstly, for some reason, their peduncles are short, and, secondly, they bloom for one season, and then disappear, releasing only leaves. Am I growing them wrong? Or is there not enough power? Tell us when you need to feed tulips and why you need to dig them up? Are daffodils grown the same?
Tulips and other spring bulb crops begin to germinate and bloom very early, thanks to the nutrient reserves of the bulb. Sprouts rise above the ground among thawed patches when there is still a lot of snow in the garden. In fact, roots don't work in cold ground. Therefore, the quality of flowering largely depends on how large and healthy the bulb was.
The bulb itself, in turn, receives its nourishment from the roots and leaves. The earlier the fertilizing is given, the more nutrients the bulb can store until the dormant period.
The dormant period begins from the moment the leaves turn yellow: for tulips - in mid-late June, for daffodils - in July. Even if the bulbs are not dug up, their roots will die off anyway, and their nutrition stops. New roots grow only in September, at the time of planting.
Top dressing and watering
The first time you can feed the bulbous plants in the snow. But this must be done carefully so that the granules do not fall on the leaves, otherwise there will be a burn. The second dressing is given at the bud stage. This contributes to obtaining a high-quality cut (high stem, large flower). The third dressing should be given after flowering to form the bulb. It is better to use mineral fertilizers, as manure and compost can cause fungal diseases. In dry weather, you need to feed only with watering, so as not to burn the roots.
In general, watering has great importance for the development of tulips. May is often dry and hot. During this period, tulips definitely need watering. Unfortunately, this rule is not always followed. In gardens where organized centralized irrigation, at the beginning of May the irrigation system has not yet been established. As a result, gardeners water only the beds where delicate seedlings grow, which cannot do without water.
How does the bulb grow?
As already mentioned, the bulb feeds on the roots and leaves. Therefore, when cutting tulips, leave on the stem as much as possible more leaves... This is difficult to do when the stem is short, because it is customary to put in a vase tall flowers... It is easier with daffodils: their peduncle is devoid of leaves, you can cut it off right near the ground.
In tulips, the bulb is renewed annually, that is, one or two new and small “babies” grow to replace the old bulb. Naturally, this happens with the participation of the leaves. This means that the presence of a leaf apparatus is especially important for tulips for normal metabolism.
But if the stem was cut at the root, don't worry, the bulb hasn't died. By the time of flowering, tulips have already tied a small bulb. She gets some of the nutrients from the old bulb, which the flowering tulip did not have time to use. But in this case, next year new onion will not bloom, usually it releases only one or two leaves.
Daffodils have a perennial bulb. As a rule, it has enough nutrition from the roots and leaves. The exception is perennial overgrown bushes, where the bulbs are very crowded. In the fall, you just need to plant them.
The height of tulips and daffodils is determined primarily by the variety. For cutting, varieties with a height of at least 50 cm are suitable.This makes it possible to cut a flower with a long stem and leave it on it enough leaves. Low-growing varieties used for decorative purposes to decorate flower beds and borders. When buying bulbs, see the description on the packaging. The height of the plants is indicated there.
Why dig up the bulbs?
V natural conditions tulips grow in climatic zone where the summer is very hot and dry. The aboveground part of the plant dies off completely, and the bulb “sleeps” quietly in the warm, dry ground. V Middle lane In Russia, it rains in summer, the soil is moist, and the temperature is much cooler.
We can create a warm dry dormant period only artificially by digging up the plants and storing them in a room with a suitable climate (for example, in the attic of a garden house).
If the bulbs are not dug up, the flower bud may not form. This is especially true of modern "pretentious" varieties (terry, fringed, parrot, etc.). This again leads to the fact that tulips only grow leaves.
Many old varieties bloom for 2-3 years without digging, but then flowering weakens, and the bulb goes deep into the ground. There are several modern tulip varieties that have been bred specifically for the busy and "lazy": their bulbs can also be dug out only once every 2-3 years. We will tell you about these varieties in August, closer to the tulip planting season.
In terms of rest, daffodils are more patient. Many varieties can do without annual digging. But it is desirable, nevertheless, to reduce watering for the dormant period or eliminate it altogether (if there are no other plants nearby).
If tulips only grow leaves, they may be affected. viral disease(on the picture). Diseased plants must be destroyed.
Sometimes everything is simpler: the bulbs are deeply planted or they themselves have sunk into the ground, since they have not been dug out for a long time. These tulips can bloom again if you follow the rules of agricultural technology. Water and feed them, and be sure to dig them up in the summer. These tulips bloom the next year or a year later.
M.B. Sharova, biologist
You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" 2011 № 7.
There can be several reasons for the wilting of leaves in tulips. First of all, perhaps, it is worth considering possible violations of the water regime, because this reason is easiest to eliminate and then exclude. If the leaves continue to remain lethargic, it means that the plants are missing some element, or they are overcome by diseases and pests.Tulips are moisture-loving plants. They need a lot of moisture to form a healthy bulb that gives a beautiful flower stalk. Moisture enters the plant as follows: first - into the bulb, then - along the stem to the flower, and last of all - to the leaves. If there is not enough moisture in the soil, the leaves will also lack it, and they will wither. To eliminate this factor, it is necessary to thoroughly spill the tulips with water.
Watering may be sufficient, but the weather is very hot. Tulips - do not like early spring flowers and heat. When planting tulips, it is better to choose places where there is no bright sun, which can be too hot in late spring or early summer. If the location is sunny and the leaves of the tulips are drooping, try spraying the plants and shading them from the sun at noon.
Lack of nutrients
If it's not about watering, it's likely that your tulip bulbs are lacking in nutrients. The shortage is also primarily reflected in the leaves. Watering will help again. This time with mineral fertilizer. If the reason is a lack of moisture, after watering in the evening the next morning, the leaves will become healthy again and rise. After compensating for the lack of nutrients, flowers need more time to come to normal condition... You can notice changes for the better in 3-4 days.Diseases and pests
But if, in spite of everything Taken measures, the leaves remained lethargic, began to turn yellow and dry, which means that your tulips are sick or damaged by pests. There are about thirty fungal diseases that tulips can be susceptible to. The most dangerous of them are fusarium, gray rot and sclerocial rot. They damage the bulb. And in this case, sluggish leaves can be a signal that the entire plant will die.To verify the presence of a fungal infection, it is necessary to remove one plant with drooping leaves from the soil along with a bulb and inspect. If the bulb is damaged, all plants should be treated. For fungal diseases, the soil under the tulips must be watered with copper preparations ( copper sulfate). If vitriol is not at hand - with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. You can spray all plants with a 1% Bordeaux mixture.
The most common pest on tulips. onion mite... It can be found when inspecting the bulb in which the pest makes moves. With a plantation infected with a tick, proceed as follows. the bulbs are dug out and before laying on winter storage processed hot water+ 45 ° С for five minutes. The next year, it is better to break a flower bed with tulips in another place.
In the process of growing tulips, many beginners have the same questions, the answers to which have long been known to experienced flower growers and are happy to share them in the article.
Why does the onion shrink?
Indeed, after planting a full-fledged, well-developed bulb in a couple of years, and sometimes already in the next year, its size becomes much smaller, it does not bloom, and after a couple of years it may completely disappear, just as it never existed. One main reason for this behavior of tulips is not adherence to cultivation technology.
Any of the following can affect the unwanted shredding of tulip bulbs:
1.
Long-term cultivation of tulips in one place for more than three years.
2.
Late digging of the bulbs, when the foliage has not yet withered.
3.
Too much early landing bulbs, when the bulb not only does not have time to take root, but even to start growing in the ground. They start planting when the soil begins to cool down to + 5 ... 8 ° С. This period begins in late September - early October.
4.
Incorrect storage conditions for the bulb: high humidity or dryness, sun exposure.
5.
Negligence in preparing a site for a new planting of tulips and, as a result, inappropriate, its nutritional regime and light conditions.
6.
Extreme growing conditions of the current year: drought in spring or autumn period, or, conversely, souring from excessively heavy and frequent rains. Dry periods require compensation with regular irrigation.
7.
Planting an unhealthy bulb - light, stained or damaged.
8.
Allowing fruiting and ripening of seeds. This process takes a lot of energy from the bulb, so the wilted flowers are immediately plucked out.
9.
Cutting tulips at the very base.
large tulip bulbs
small tulip bulbs
Can a tulip change its variety and begin to bloom in a different color over the years?
As a rule, inexperienced gardeners formulate the question like this: “We planted different varietal tulips, they bloomed so beautifully, and the next year they all bloomed red. Did they get dusty? "
The color of a flower depends only on the variety and condition of the bulb from which it originated. Pollination of some varieties by others leads only to the formation of seeds, which, after sowing and maturation, can really give new variety... But this does not in any way affect the color of the mother bulb that gave these seeds. So, the reason here lies elsewhere. The reason for this is the virus, which blocks the acquired traits during selection and leaves only the dominant ones, which were still in wild tulips. Considering that most varieties have their progenitor, it is not surprising that in case of illness, they bloom with yellow and red flowers that are classic for this group of tulips.
The color of a flower depends only on the variety and condition of the bulb from which it originated.
But tulips can suddenly not only turn red, but also bloom. The most common large red tulips in our gardens, if they sit for a long time in one place, bloom with more refined, small flowers, streaked with white, pink, crimson, red and yellow stripes. At the same time, the flowering time is significantly shifted towards late blooming tulips... So you might think that a new variety was born in the garden by itself. This illusion disappears as soon as we transplant such bulbs to a new place. As a rule, in the first year after transplanting, they bloom again with the bright red color characteristic of the variety. But the process is already irreversible, the tulip will still "blotch up" again.
This miracle has long been known to the world, it is called the variegated virus. It ranks first on the list of the most dangerous tulip diseases. The virus infects the entire plant, slows down metabolic processes, which leads to the loss of all characteristics of the variety: it changes the color of the flower, shifts the flowering time, while shortening its duration, lengthens and thinns the peduncle stem.
The virus infects the entire plant, slows down metabolic processes, which leads to the loss of all the characteristics of the variety.
When such tulips are found in the garden, they are instantly dug up and destroyed, since this virus remains incurable for now. Also, it will be useful to prevent the appearance of leaf-eating insects, because it is transmitted with juice from one plant to another.
variegation of tulips
What to look for when choosing bulbs?
A high-quality healthy bulb is always hard and dry to the touch, its weight is palpable, the covering scales are clean, without damage or stains, the bottom is devoid of roots, and the upper bud is without signs of growth.
How long can tulips grow in one place?
In collectible gardens, tulips are transplanted every year. Then the bulbs always remain healthy, large and productive. In the gardens where they perform decorative role, as part of a mixborder, planted on a bed or among bushes, tulips can be grown for 3-4 years, but subject to a high agricultural background, which guarantees the formation of a large bulb. This is a sunny place, systematic feeding and sufficient planting depth - 20 - 25 cm.
What conditions must be met in order to admire the tulips in the flower bed for as long as possible?
There are several such conditions:
1.
Sunny, sheltered from the wind, the location of the flower bed.
2.
Nutritious, loose soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction and a feeding system:
The first feeding (30 g of nitrogen, 20 g of potash and 30 g of phosphorus fertilizer per bucket of water) is carried out immediately after germination;
the second (20 g of nitrogen, 20 g of potassium and 30 g of phosphorus) before flowering and the third (20 g of potassium and 30 g of phosphorus) after flowering.
3.
Qualitative preparation of the site before planting. For one to two weeks, the selected area is dug up with a complex of fertilizers. For one square meter, 5-6 kg of humus or compost, 50 g of nitrophoska and 30 g of potassium salt are introduced. If the site is prone to flooding by thawed or groundwater, it is drained or organized high ridge with deep aisles.
4.
Maintaining optimum humidity the soil with regular watering.
5.
The exclusion of growing tulips in an area with previous crops that have the same diseases - these are all bulbous and nightshade. Tulips can be returned to their original place not earlier than after 5 years.
6.
Selection of tulip varieties from all four groups.
planting tulips in prepared soil
How to properly organize a tulip transplant?
Dead, but not yet dried up leaves of plants are a signal that we can start digging the bulbs. They are carefully removed from the ground with a shovel, cleaned of excess scales and the upper part, if necessary, separated or washed in water and soaked for half an hour in a solution of any fungicide. After that, the bulbs are laid out in one layer in a shady, ventilated place and dried for about 3 to 5 days. When sending onions for storage, do not forget that processes are actively taking place inside it that affect future flowering. An increased temperature during such a period accelerates these processes, a lower temperature slows it down. The optimal temperatures are considered for the first month of storage - 25 - 30 ° С, for subsequent ones, up to disembarkation - 15 - 17 ° С.
Dead, but not yet dried up leaves of plants are a signal that we can start digging the bulbs.
In autumn, late September - early October, to a new location. At the bottom of a trench 20-25 cm deep, the largest bulbs are first laid with an interval of 5-10 cm and lightly sprinkled with earth. Between them are medium-sized bulbs, which are also covered with a layer of earth. All the smallest baby onions finish off, after which the entire ridge is filled up flush with the soil level and mulched well. An important point- all bulbs are placed upside down or on their side.
tulip planting time - autumn
How to properly cut flowers in a vase so as not to harm future flowering?
To decorate your home with wonderful tulips, they break them, leaving at least 2 on the plant bottom sheets... The remaining leaves will take care of the replenishment of strength and the growth of new bulbs. Never cut tulips by the root, otherwise you will be left without blooming flower beds next year! By the way, it is better not to cut tulips, but to break them. After all, viruses, and the first of them - variegated leaves, are transmitted from one plant to another through the blades of knives or secateurs. One infected plant is enough to destroy the entire plantation.
Never cut tulips by the root, otherwise you will be left without a blooming flower bed for the next year!
Broken tulip flowers also have a wonderful property to grow in a vase. Therefore, do not wait for the tulips to bloom, but cut them at the colored bud stage, even if the plants are still short with small buds. In the vases in our rooms, the stems of tulips can grow up to 20 cm, and the buds grow many times over. And do not pour a lot of water into the vase, the stems from the heat can quickly rot. Let the water level be no more than 10 cm and add, or rather change the water every day. Then tulips will decorate your home for at least 7-14 days.
correct cutting of tulips
I hope this article has found the answer to your question. Or, perhaps, one of them was left without attention? Leave it in the comments to the article, and I will definitely answer it.
Tulips can be affected by fungal, bacterial, viral and non-infectious diseases. Preventive measures can help protect tulips from most of them. In our article - the most frequent illnesses tulips with photos, as well as methods of their treatment.
Fungal diseases of tulips
The most common fungal diseases include:
1. Fusarium (wet rot) infects tulip bulbs by penetrating through the roots and bottom. Diseased plants give short peduncles and roots, small buds. The disease is expressed by a putrid odor and the appearance of brown spots on the bulb, leading to its softening and decay.
Pre-planting treatment with a 0.2-0.25% solution of foundationol or uzgen of bulbs will protect tulips from disease.
One of the most common tulip diseases is fusarium.
Attention! Fusarium causes the greatest damage during storage of bulbs, leading to significant losses of planting material. The microclimate of the storage contributes to the spread of fusarium - high humidity in combination with t ° from + 25 ° C.
2. Gray rot- a disease transmitted through infected bulbs. It manifests itself in spots of brown color, over time causing darkening and shrinking of the bulbs.
The infected plant serves as a source of infection for other flowers. With a mild disease, signs of damage on the bulb are practically invisible, manifesting themselves on the overgrown aerial parts in the form of gray-yellow spots that increase during wet weather and covered with a gray bloom. The disease causes softening and drying of tissues, leads to deformation of peduncles, leaves and buds, in some cases - to a lack of flowering.
Compliance with the rules for growing tulips and storing bulbs will help protect plants from gray rot. The dug out bulbs should be etched with foundation (0.2% solution) for 30 minutes before storage. Re-processing of the bulbs is carried out immediately before planting. During the growing season, to protect against infection with gray mold, it is recommended to spray tulips 2-3 times with Bordeaux liquid (1%) or euporenum (0.5-1%), for the first time - after the emergence of sprouts, the second time - after 2 weeks.
3. Soft rot - a disease that affects tulip bulbs, making them watery, staining pink. Infected bulbs are easily recognizable due to their putrid odor. When tulips are affected during the growing season, the disease manifests itself as yellowing of the tips of the leaves, leading to premature drying of the buds. Protect tulips from soft rot treatment of the bulbs with a fungicide will help.
Attention! The disease affects the bulbs in the first weeks after planting in greenhouses, if the soil temperature exceeds 12 ° C, therefore it is recommended to maintain the soil temperature at 10 ° C for the first 2 weeks.
Viral diseases of tulips
1. Necrotic spotting (August disease), manifests itself in the form of brown streaks, causing drying and cracking of plant tissues. As a result, infected tulips gradually dry out, or retain their vitality, form deformed buds, and in some cases do not bloom.
On the bulbs appear brown spots transmitted to children. Diseased plants become susceptible to fungal diseases.
Compliance with the rules of cultivation and crop rotation will help protect tulips from necrotic spotting. Affected plants are to be destroyed, along with an earthen clod.
Attention! Disease of necrotic spotting is most susceptible to early varieties tulips.
2. Variegation - the disease is expressed by a violation of the formation of pigment - the appearance of a variegated color of buds, leading to a change in honeycomb characteristics and degeneration of plants. The vectors of the disease are insects: thrips, aphids, whiteflies and others.
Attention! The disease of variegation spreads with plant sap, therefore, the source of damage is often cutting tools used for cutting flowers.
Destruction will help protect tulips from disease harmful insects and timely destruction of diseased plants, refusal co-cultivation lilies and tulips, disinfection of cutting tools with a solution of potassium permanganate, soda or alcohol.
Non-communicable diseases of tulips
The source of this type of disease is unfavorable external factors.
1. The drooping of the peduncle is caused by a lack of calcium in the tissues during the period of accelerated growth caused by increased temperature. The cause of the disease is an unripe bulb dug out too early. The disease manifests itself in the form of a vitreous spot in the upper part of the plant. Compliance will help prevent the development of the disease temperature regime, additional feeding fertilizers containing calcium.
Lack of flowers in tulips - planting too early or improper storage of bulbs
2. Blind buds appear as a result of violation of the rules for storing bulbs. The second reason is early planting in insufficiently cooled soil, which is why the bulbs are actively moving into growth, while root system practically does not develop, causing a growth imbalance. The second cause of the disease is infection of the bulbs with Fusarium. Planting such bulbs provokes a lack of flowering in neighboring healthy tulips.
To prevent the development of the disease, compliance with the conditions for planting bulbs (soil temperature + 5-10 ° C), ensuring appropriate storage conditions, and rejection of bulbs infected with fusarium will help.
3. Lime disease affects tulips if the bulbs are stored in damp rooms with high temperature... The cause of the disease is the digging of unripe bulbs. The disease is expressed by the appearance of white hard spots on the bulbs.
Features of prevention
Carrying out certain measures can significantly reduce the level of diseases and reduce the area of their distribution:
- careful selection of the site, in accordance with the requirements for growing tulips;
- soil preparation, applying the necessary fertilizers to it;
- when cultivating tulips in a greenhouse - an annual soil change;
- soil treatment with fungicides before planting the bulbs;
- compliance with the conditions of crop rotation when growing in open ground- Re-planting of tulips in one place is possible after 4 years;
- competent feeding with the help mineral fertilizers... An overdose of nitrogen fertilizers leads to a decrease in the resistance of tulips to diseases;
- compliance with planting conditions, lack of thickening.
- weeding, timely destruction of infected plants;
- rejection of diseased and mechanically damaged bulbs;
- storage of bulbs in appropriate conditions and using a disinfected container.
Tulips, differing in a variety of shapes and colors, are popular garden flowers... The ability to recognize the signs of diseases and know how to deal with them, and most importantly, how to prevent the development of diseases in flowers, will allow you to grow beautiful and healthy tulips, and, accordingly, get high-quality planting material for breeding them.