A do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is a sign of a good working style. Homemade soldering iron stand
Greetings, Samodelkins!
To do this we will need the following tools and materials:
1. Laminate scraps left over after renovation
2. A small piece of 16mm chipboard
3. Clamp for polypropylene pipes
4. Electric jigsaw
5. Wood glue
6. Spray paint. The author used black, but then, in some way, he regretted that he chose such a gloomy color. dark color. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a more cheerful color.
7. Putty
8. Sandpaper
9. USB lamp from a fix-price store
10. 2 alligator clips
11. A pair of small bolts and nuts for them
12. Copper wire
The author begins work on a homemade product. First you need to decide what you are going to store in your homemade product. To determine the size of the future product, he compactly folds what will be stored in a homemade organizer in the near future.
At this stage, he also notes the approximate dimensions of the future product.
Now, but more precisely, he makes a drawing of the workpiece. When making a drawing, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the materials used.
Now the author proceeds directly to making the organizer. First, he cuts the laminate and chipboard to size. Super precision is not needed here, but still try to make the cut as close to 90 degrees as possible. This is what the box should look like.
Next, you need to mark what size the stands for the soldering iron holder should be. The recesses should naturally be higher than the walls of the box, and the stands themselves should be of such length that, when lying down, they fit comfortably in the box, and in one layer. Now you need to cut out a recess for both metal parts. The author does it this way:
After some time, he realizes that this could have been done much easier with a wood crown, and only then cut in half. Well, as they say, a good thought comes to someone else or to ourselves, but late.
This is what ended up happening. All you have to do is tighten a couple of screws and you're done.
Now let's start assembling the box itself. Starts from the bottom. Makes small recesses in advance for the screw heads. Then, in the gluing areas, use sandpaper to remove the entire glossy layer of the laminate. Next is gluing. The author takes a special glue for wood products and glues the wide side walls made of chipboard. When gluing, it is advisable to use clamps. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to secure the entire structure from below with self-tapping screws. Next, check the perpendicularity of the walls. You need to measure the angle between the walls. It should be straight - 90°.
Everything is fine, let's move on. Now this design has rigidity, so it can be glued and screwed onto screws at the same time. This is what happened.
The author made the lid of the box using a tongue-and-groove connection. It's long and tedious. The author adjusted everything by hand so that it fits tightly enough into one whole. Next he glues all the details. This will be quite enough, since practically no loads are expected on this part of the organizer.
Then you will need sandpaper. It is necessary to use it to sand down all possible irregularities and apply wood putty. Putty is mainly needed to cover the chips on chipboard ends, well, and hide all sorts of jambs that formed during production. After the putty has hardened, you need to clean it. The same sandpaper will come to the rescue.
Next stage– painting.
It is necessary to paint the box to give it a marketable appearance.
Well, the paint has completely dried and here the author would like to add one point. It was necessary to choose a more cheerful color so that loved ones would not have the desire to take the box away and bury, for example, a hamster in it. Anyway.
Now you can carefully remove the tape from the stand where the hot part of the soldering iron will be. We don't need the smell of burnt paint. If there are adhesive traces left from the tape, you can try to remove them. Or leave it as is. After turning on the soldering iron, the remaining adhesive from the tape on the stand should burn out.
And on the part where the handle will be we put on the original rubber band from the fastener for polypropylene water pipe so that the soldering iron does not slide on the stand.
The mounting of the soldering iron stand itself will be very simple. Nuts are glued into the racks and the whole thing is tightened with bolts with heads to the wall of the box. Here's what we ended up with:
Everything is very simple and practical. If you wish, you can drill several more of the same holes, and if you have more than one soldering iron, then this design feature will be very useful. It will be possible to rearrange the rack under different sizes soldering iron Now the author decided to make a couple of clips in the side wall of the box. They will be used as a third hand for soldering. To make such a design you will need this miracle of Chinese engineering from a fix-price store.
In the store it is positioned as a USB lamp for illuminating a laptop keyboard. It can also be used in conjunction with a power bank, or as a night light. It is better suited as the latter, since, to be honest, its light is so-so, but its flexible leg will be useful to us. You will also need a couple of small screws with mortise nuts.
It is necessary to disassemble this miracle lamp. In principle, he doesn’t mind at all, and he himself falls apart, thereby providing a kind of assistance in disassembling.
When working with a soldering iron, a special stand is required. The soldering iron cannot simply be left on the table or some other surface. As a rule, any suitable item in the house is used in this capacity. With a little effort, you can make a soldering iron stand yourself. Such a device will be cheaper and will be adapted to the needs of the master.
How to make a soldering iron stand with your own hands? To make it, you first need to make a stable base from a material that conducts heat poorly. The following tools and materials are required for work:
A rectangular blank is cut out of a sheet of chipboard, and the sides are sanded with sandpaper, rounding the corners. Next, make four rubber legs, which can be cut from a piece of rubber or a cork from chemical test tubes. The legs are screwed to the base using self-tapping screws.
A hook is bent from a long strip of iron with pliers, which is used to install the heating part of the soldering iron. At one edge of the stand, an iron strip with a hook is secured with bolts. To reliably fix the structural elements, you need to pre-drill holes in the chipboard workpiece.
The holder for the soldering iron handle can be made from any part with a suitable recess . It is bolted to the edge of the music stand. Closer to heating element The soldering holder is installed in the same way. To do this, use a metal plate made from old radio components or other consumables.
At the soldering site, you can melt a piece of tin, which is heated during operation. Thus, it turns out convenient and universal device. Rubber feet give the structure stability and prevent damage to the table surface.
The simplest device can be made from thick wire. It is a cone spring that is attached to a stable base. A piece of wire, approximately 30 cm long, is wound onto the tool. There is an eyelet at the end for attaching to the stand. For the spring, you can use a thin clothes hanger.
The base is assembled from any suitable item- a tin can, an unnecessary part from household appliances or a piece of plywood, etc. A hole is first drilled in the workpiece, where a spring is attached using a bolt.
In another version of the design, rectangular holders with recesses for a soldering iron are made from wire using pliers. They are fixed on both sides to a base made of chipboard or wooden block. The soldering installation can be equipped with containers for tin or rosin, and a box for storing small parts, which is glued with special glue.
Soldering iron stand with magnifying glass. To make it more convenient to work with small parts, a special stand with a flexible holder (“third hand”) is installed on the stand. With its help you can fix various equipment: magnifying glass, backlight and other tools. The holder is secured with hinges, which allows you to rotate the device in different directions. All holder parts are made from metal elements to ensure the stability of the structure.
To work, you will need a computer power supply cover and the following tools:
- metal scissors;
- ruler or caliper;
- file or sandpaper;
- marker.
We mark with a marker the approximate dimensions of the workpiece on the part from the computer (width 60 mm, height 35 mm). A stand is cut out according to the marks made, then recesses are made on the sides where the tool is installed. For safe work The sharp edges of the product are treated with a file or sandpaper. Thus, a homemade stand for a soldering iron can be made in 15 minutes.
From the computer power supply you can get mobile device. Such a device is a box or case, inside of which there are compartments for soldering, rosin, a clamp for circuits and other small parts. The wire holder is attached to the outside and easily folds over the lid of the pencil case.
The product is easy to manufacture and does not require special materials. For holders, fuse jaws are used, which are attached to a base made of a wooden block or PCB. The distance between the holders is set in accordance with the size of the soldering tool. The fuses are screwed using self-tapping screws into pre-drilled holes.
If you urgently need a soldering iron, you can quickly make a stand from screws or nails. IN wooden base nails are driven in crosswise. This design is quite stable and holds the tool well.
To make a homemade soldering iron stand, you don’t need specialized knowledge or skills. For work, scrap materials that can be found in any home are often used. DIY devices are simple and easy to use.
Every radio amateur or just a beginner in this business knows how to work with a soldering iron, and for its convenient use a stand is needed. In this article I will talk about how to make a homemade budget stand for a soldering iron.
In order to assemble our stand you will need:
* Chipboard sheet, 18 mm thick, could be thicker, but I think this is the most optimal thickness.
* 4 self-tapping screws 20 mm and 4 smaller bolts.
* Coarse sandpaper.
* A couple of rubber stoppers from chemical test tubes.
* Hacksaw for metal.
* Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver.
* A thin screwdriver, an awl will also work.
* Pliers.
* Iron plate.
* Metal antenna mount.
* A tin from an old receiver that covers the board.
* Spring from a fountain pen.
* The soldering iron itself is for testing.
The first step is to sand the already cut chipboard sheet. We sand thoroughly and give the edges a rounded appearance. We bring the blank for the stand to this form. The photo shows which workpiece was before grinding and which after.
Having thought that many purchased stands are so simple that they do not have legs, I decided to make rubber feet for my stand.
We saw through the rubber plugs taken from the chemical test tubes with a hacksaw, making them the same thickness using sandpaper if it was not possible to saw off smoothly.
After that, screw a 20 mm self-tapping screw into each leg.
And screw the leg with a screw into the pre-prepared hole.
Screw on the first leg.
We fasten the second, third and fourth in the same way. We've sorted out the legs, now the stand won't go anywhere and won't scratch the table.
The next thing I did was bend the iron plate into a hook shape, as in the photo.
Using a screwdriver for small parts, I made a hole for two bolts that will hold this hook.
We tighten the bolts, as we can see the hook holds well.
Let's try on how the soldering iron will sit.
Using pliers, bend one edge of the hook, it should look something like this.
So, the heating part of the soldering iron is not going anywhere now, so let’s move on to the back of the soldering iron, or rather to the handle.
I decided to make this holder from an antenna mount that had been lying around for a long time; there are already holes there.
There is also a recess where the soldering iron handle fits well.
We fasten this mount with two screws.
And now the soldering place, since the tin needs to be taken from somewhere, for convenience we will make it closer to the soldering iron tip.
I punched a hole in the record that I took out of the radio and screwed a bolt into it; it firmly pressed it to the stand.
From a ballpoint pen, which had just ended, I removed a spring and decided to put it on our hook, first I bent one end of it, then I made a hole with a screwdriver in the board of the stand and inserted this end of the spring there, and soldered it to the hook at the top.
The stand is almost ready, the next thing I did was melt the tin at the soldering site, now, if necessary, I can heat this place and tin the wires there.
Good day to all.
Today I want to tell you about a universal soldering iron stand that I purchased on eBay.
It’s not that I’m an ardent fan of assembling or soldering anything, but sometimes it happens that you can’t do without a soldering iron. Either the wiring needs to be soldered somewhere, or the button needs to be re-soldered, or something else will come off or break suddenly and at the most inopportune moment. Since I got a soldering iron, all these problems have become easily solvable and not as global as they were before. But there was still one nuance - sometimes you had to solder something extremely inconvenient, when you hold the wires with one hand and try to solder them with the other. In such cases, taking solder becomes very problematic and then I had to resort to the help of my wife :) Use it instead of a wire clamp. My wife didn’t really like this job and I once thought about purchasing something more trouble-free than a woman. In other words, I started looking for a stand. Much to my surprise, problems with searching of this device I didn’t have any problems, but there’s a problem with variety - I managed to find only a few models that didn’t differ much from each other in their functionality. In the end, I decided not to overpay and purchased one of the cheapest lots - a stand that cost only $9.19. Perhaps some of you will say that you can buy this in some hypermarket or radio equipment store, but let’s not forget that this review was written by a resident of Belarus, and we have a completely different situation here. And rather than wandering around the shops, it’s easier for me to place an order online and receive it in the mail after a couple of weeks.
The seller turned out to be quite prompt and sent my parcel a few hours after payment. If anyone is interested, you can see the movement of a parcel from China to Belarus.
During the not very long journey, the parcel suffered a lot: one side of it was terribly jammed. 
But there were no losses and the contents of the parcel were not damaged. I really can’t imagine how this is possible, given such damage to the packaging :) As you can see, the factory packaging was once a beautiful, colorful cardboard box with fairly high-quality printing. Our stand is depicted on the front side of the box, and its main characteristics and capabilities are on the sides. 
Inside the box was our stand, as well as a black and white instruction manual. The stand is supplied disassembled, the grips come in a separate cardboard box, and the soldering iron holder, made in the form of a spiral, also comes separately. 
There are no complaints about the quality of production. Immediately upon receipt, the plastic emitted a not very strong, but not very pleasant smell. Today it has decreased significantly, but the stand still smells, although this is not critical, since much stronger odors appear during soldering :)
There are 2 fastenings on the stand - a movable hinged one for the grips and a stationary one for the holder. 
They are fixed using special clamping screws with plastic caps. It seems that they are not very flimsy, but this saving did not seem very practical to me. If you try to tighten the fastener, you may not calculate the force applied and break the plastic. It would be much better if these screws were completely metal.
The holder has a knurled end that allows it to be securely secured using a clamping screw. 
But the fastening of the grips is simply pressed against the stand, which is also not very good. It is not possible to securely fix it, one way or another it remains movable: (Most likely you will have to drill small holes for the clamping screw with reverse side holders, or use electrical tape :) By the way, the entire part of the structure on which the clamps are installed is connected using hinge joints. Thanks to this, you can easily position the paws as you please. There are 3 such connections in total, that is, this structure can be bent in 6 places almost 360 degrees. There are no problems with the choice of positions here and cannot be. The grips here are a la crocodiles, with a fairly tight spring, so you have to be careful when fixing fragile objects. But everything is clamped securely - nothing will accidentally fall out. 
The wings are clamped with decent effort. You may need pliers for fixation :) 
And above the whole thing rises a plastic magnifying glass, fixed on a bendable support. If you believe the seller and what is written in his ad, it magnifies it 3.5 times, and if you use the small insert located at the top of the magnifying glass, then 12 times. 
I don’t know about the accuracy of this data, but the fact that glass magnifies is a fact.
Right there, near the magnifying glass, you can see a button that turns on the backlight. Yes, yes, this stand has LED lighting, which can be useful in some cases. The button presses well and smoothly. No problems with its operation have yet been discovered. 
It includes 2 diodes located under a magnifying glass. It’s not that these diodes give light like a normal lamp, but illuminate some kind of small area or their power is quite enough to disperse the shadow. 
This whole cunning circuit is powered by 3 AAA batteries, which are installed at the foot of the stand. 
When assembled, this entire structure looks like this: 
And finally, about the shortcomings. Or rather, not so much about the shortcomings, but about what I would like to see here. And I would like to see a built-in socket and cord here to connect the stand to the network. I think it would be convenient to plug the soldering iron into the stand, rather than into a socket - there would be more room for maneuver, so to speak. Perhaps, if I’m not too lazy, I’ll try to modify the stand myself :)
Overall, I was very pleased with this purchase. The stand turned out to be very convenient, practical and functional. It fully justifies its cost and will definitely be useful to everyone who has ever held a soldering iron in their hands. The only 2 nuances that can be a little frustrating are the plastic lens, which will probably get scratched over time and the “lambs” are not very comfortable to clamp (but this is only if you want to clamp them very tightly).
And this is what she looks like fully armed: 
Basically, that's all. Thank you all for your attention and time spent.
A little background. I've wanted it for a long time do normal soldering iron stand , but didn't know where to start. Recently I came across a lid (I don’t remember exactly why), which for a long time was in a box.
She gave me the idea for the design.
To make the stand I used:
— “unknown” cover (stand);
- plywood;
- wooden glazing bead;
- self-tapping screws;
- nails;
Description of work
To begin with, I removed everything unnecessary from the lid.
“Tabs” were left on the sides, which will play the role of fastening.
Next, 3 planks were cut out of plywood. Since the bottom of the lid is not level, a backing was cut out for easy attachment to the base. 
From three sawn planks:
- the largest is the base of the entire structure;
- the other two are identical. On one there will be a mount for a soldering iron, in the other I made holes into which jars of flux for soldering will be placed. I also made holes in the backing in the shape of the bottom of the lid.
I drilled holes in the “tongues”. Then I screwed two identical boards to them with self-tapping screws.
To prevent the jars of flux from falling through, a small board was cut out of plywood, and two small beads were cut to the board.
I nailed this board to the base with nails, placing sawn glazing beads under it.
A partition into the lid was cut out of tin. From the tin that was cut from the lid, I bent a stand on which the soldering iron will rest. The partition was screwed to the base with self-tapping screws through holes in the lid. The stand was screwed to a board without holes.
Under the board on which the soldering iron will rest, I cut out 2 glazing beads and nailed them onto nails.
I placed a sponge in the part of the lid with the divider. Cellulose sponge for washing dishes. Sponges that are sold specifically for cleaning soldering iron tips are no different from cellulose sponges for washing dishes, only in size and price. Dish sponges are much larger in size and cheaper in price. This sponge was purchased at a hardware store for 30 rubles.
The lower part was removed from the sponge. I also cut it to fit the lid.
