Pinching and pinching. Basic rules of care

CARE OF ASTERAS, EXPERT ADVICE Save the cheat sheet and share with your classmates! All plants love to be cared for. Aster is no exception. She is not picky, but if she chooses the right place with the right soil composition, and does not forget to water and feed her, then the flowering will be lush and long-lasting. In order for asters to please the eye with magnificent flowering, they must be grown in well-lit places, because these beauties are very light-loving. To avoid infection through soil by diseases, it is recommended to return to the original planting site after 4-5 years. Like many plants, asters do not tolerate excessive moisture and stagnant water, so the soil must be permeable and deep groundwater . Light sandy loam and loamy soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6.5-8) are quite suitable for them, but they must first be cultivated. Preparing the soil Cultivation of the soil for asters begins in the fall. The soil must be dug up to a depth of 22-30 cm and fertilizer added for digging: 2-4 kg of humus or compost (astra does not tolerate fresh manure, since it contributes to the infestation of plants by fusarium) and 6-9 g of superphosphate and potassium salt per 1 m2. If the soil is acidic, liming should be done in late autumn, taking into account that adding 350-400 g of carbonated lime per 1 m2 increases the pH by 1. In early spring, the soil should be loosened to a depth of 15-18 cm in order to retain more moisture and allow weeds to germinate plants that overwintered in it. Before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, the area should be thoroughly weeded, leveled and loosened again to a depth of 4-6 cm. Growing seedlings Asters in the Non-Black Earth Region are usually grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown in a window in the second half of March, in a greenhouse - in April. For sowing, mix turf soil with peat and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1. It is advisable to sift the resulting soil mixture through a sieve with 1-1.5 cm holes. Good garden soil directly from the site will also work. Sprinkle the soil on top with a layer of clean sand 2-2.5 cm thick. Seedling boxes or pots are thoroughly spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water) and filled with soil. 1-2 days before sowing, it is spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate, or, in extreme cases, just boiling water. During sowing, the soil should not be wet, but only moist. The seeds are sown scattered, not sprinkled with soil, but covered with paper. It is removed after 3-5 days, when shoots appear. Then the box is placed on a bright windowsill and the seedlings are carefully watered with water at room temperature. In the future, watering should be infrequent, but plentiful. The temperature when growing seedlings is maintained at 16-18°C during the day and 12-15°C at night. This temperature can be achieved by ventilating the room or greenhouse. The time from emergence to picking (7-8 days after emergence) is a very crucial moment, since a “black leg” may appear. During this period, you need to carefully monitor both soil moisture and air temperature. Seedlings dive when the first true leaf forms. Plants are planted every 5-7 cm in a checkerboard pattern and watered. If the subcotyledonous knee of the seedlings is very elongated, then when picking they can be deepened almost to the cotyledon leaves. 7-10 days after picking, the rooted seedlings are fed with any complex mineral fertilizer (30 g per 10 liters of water). When the 4th leaf appears, the seedlings begin to harden, lowering the temperature so that it is 10-12°C during the day and 8-10°C at night. The total duration of hardening should be 15-20 days. Hardened seedlings take root better and grow faster after transplantation. It can withstand temperatures down to minus 4°C. During hardening, reduce watering. Plants are planted in the 2-3rd decade of May. By the time of planting in the ground, asters should have a strong stem 6-10 cm high and 5-7 large bright green leaves. 2-3 days before transplanting and before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, especially if they were grown without pots. This will help better preserve the roots and soil ball. It is preferable to plant in the evening. For asters, the feeding area is very important - they should never be thickened. Seedlings of tall varieties are placed at a distance of 20-25 cm between plants, low-growing asters are planted after 10-15 cm. When multi-row planting, 60-70 cm is left between rows. If planted in a raised flower bed (15-25 cm high), large asters are placed on a distance of 30-35 and 35-40 cm between rows, undersized by 15-20 and 20-25 cm, respectively. Planting is carried out with double watering: in the holes and from above. The soil around the planted seedlings is sprinkled (mulched) with dry soil. In hot weather, it is advisable to cover the plants with a light non-woven fabric for several days for better survival. Tip: In order for asters to form strong bushes with lush inflorescences, on the eve of sowing, soak the seeds for 7 hours in a solution of zinc chloride or molybdenum (0.5-08 g per 1 liter of water). We sow in the ground. Usually, asters are grown through seedlings for earlier flowering (especially late varieties) or obtaining seeds. If all this is not so necessary, then asters can be grown by sowing in open ground. Such plants are less likely to suffer from fusarium and bloom longer, although they produce almost no seeds. Asters can be sown in the spring, as soon as the soil warms up. Usually sowing is carried out in early May, seedlings appear on May 19-24. Seeds are prepared in the same way as when sowing seedlings, and sown in furrows 0.5-0.8 cm deep. Cover with a layer of soil, water well, and lightly mulch or cover in dry weather. non-woven material before emergence. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 10-15 cm (taking into account the fact that seedlings will continue to fall out in the future). You don’t have to pull out the excess plants, but carefully dig them up and transplant them to another place. Flowering of asters sown directly into the ground will be 19-25 days later than home seedlings, but longer. You can sow asters in late autumn. They are sown in previously prepared soil, placed in furrows, and sprinkled with prepared dry soil. The soil must be frozen when sowing, otherwise the seeds may germinate and die. Winter sowing in December-January is also possible for asters. If there are no severe frosts, snow is raked from areas prepared for asters, dry seeds are sown in furrows and sprinkled with just dry soil or mixed with peat, and a layer of snow is poured on top. With pre-winter or winter sowing, seedlings appear in late April - early May. Caring for asters includes mandatory loosening of the soil. It is advisable to do this after each watering or rain. Loosen the soil to a depth of 4-6 cm, taking into account that the bulk of the roots are in the surface layer (20 cm). Before the plants begin to branch, light hilling can be done to a height of 5-7 cm. This will enhance root growth. When watering, you must remember that both a lack and an excess of water are harmful to asters. In hot weather, it is better to water less frequently, but abundantly (up to 3 buckets per 1 m2) and be sure to loosen after that. If in dry weather you are late with watering or give it insufficiently, the inflorescences will be small and of small size. Tip: Asters sown before winter not only bloom earlier, but also produce more lush inflorescences. If possible, then after rooting the seedlings it is better to feed the asters with a solution of mullein diluted 1:10. In order for the aster to grow into a beauty, it needs to be fed. Usually they give 3 feedings. The first time is fed 10-15 days after planting in the ground or thinning, using 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2. When the buds appear, a second feeding is given, this time using 50-60 g/m2 of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The same fertilizers are given during the third feeding, which is carried out at the beginning of asters flowering.

Don’t forget about such an important technique for obtaining high-quality cutting as pinching. During the initial growth period, asters have one trunk. Then branching begins. Stepchildren appear in a row. Depends on varietal characteristics there can be from 2-4 to several 10s. The more sons there are, the smaller the diameter of the inflorescences will be. Therefore, their parts are removed, leaving 2-5 pieces. Asters become especially large when all the stepsons are removed and only one inflorescence remains on the central stem. In this case, the diameter of plants of certain series and species can reach 18-20 cm (Toreador, Valkyrie, Corrida, etc.).

But there are varieties and variety series for which the removal of first-order stepchildren is contraindicated. These are low borders (Camelot, Classic, etc.), bouquet, columnar, pompom (Serenade, Biedermeier, etc.). The diameter of their inflorescences does not increase, and their decorativeness disappears. So this requires a personal approach. If it is not the diameter of the inflorescences that matters, but their quantity, first-order stepchildren are not standardized. More more harm stepchildren of the second and third order bring, if their development is allowed. They take away a lot of nutrients, and as a result, the quality of the main inflorescences is significantly worsened. Such stepchildren develop especially actively in the fall, when the main inflorescences begin to dry out or some of them are cut off. Many people cannot get seeds specifically because the plants waste their energy on the development of stepchildren, and the main inflorescences dry out and the seeds do not ripen.

I have a prejudice against food dyes that can be purchased in stores, especially before Easter.

Letniki are definitely the brightest and, perhaps, the most unpretentious inhabitants of our gardens. But they also need care. Weeding, fertilizing and, of course, correct and timely formation of each bush. For careful care, the plants will thank you with lush and especially long flowering. So, let's start in order!

Formation of annual vines

Annual vines are fast-growing plants. With their help, you can decorate an unsightly wall of an outbuilding, decorate a fence or gazebo, or create flower arch or a floral emerald curtain. Simply put, with their help you can turn everyday life and dullness into something completely fantastic and enchanting. In order for the vine bushes to captivate the eye with their power and splendor in the future, they need to be pinched back at the seedling stage. Pinching - removing the tip of the shoot above the 3-4 leaf, stimulates the formation of side shoots. This procedure is necessary for tall and medium-growing varieties of peas, fire beans, moonflower, dolichos, azarina, thunbergia and others.

Formation of heat-loving perennials

Heat-loving perennials, which are cultivated as, also need timely pinching. Removing the top above 4-6 leaves has a beneficial effect on the development of hybrid fuchsia, Peruvian heliotopus, hybrid browallia and coleus. Pelargonium zonalis, fire-red kufeya, New Guinea balsam and Waller's balsam also need pinching. The result is branched, compact and abundantly flowering bushes.

But don’t get carried away, because every pinch delays the beginning of flowering. 1-2 procedures are enough. Overly zealous flower growers northern regions due to repeated pinching, they may not wait to bloom before the onset of cold weather.

Formation of ampelous plants

Queens hanging planters And balcony boxes: petunia, surfinia, fuchsia, ivy-leaved pelargonium, calibrachoa, ferulifolia series, large-flowered anagallis, sutera and others need shaping. Repeated pinching as it grows promotes branching of the bushes. As a result, shoots and flowers form an incredibly lush and colorful cascade.

Some decorative foliage hanging plants also need pinching and pruning of shoots. Flower growers do not need to be careful when shortening the shoots of ivy leaf, green grass or, for example, ivy. After all, these plants even frequent pruning will do no harm.

Forced pinching

Flower growers of lobularia, petunia, zinnia, hybrid verbena and other beautifully flowering annuals often face the same problem. And entirely through my own fault.

Attention!

Incorrectly calculated timing of sowing seeds, lack of light during the growth period, untimely planting of summer seedlings in the ground - all this leads to elongation of the stems of young plants. In this case, removing most of the stem will help correct the situation.

New branches will soon grow from the axillary buds remaining on the shoot. And after a short time, the plants will look as they should - healthy and strong.

Ageratum mexicanis

Pinching after planting in the ground

Carnation or, for example, tall varieties of helichrysum bractae begin to grow only after planting on permanent place. For this reason, pinching of shoots is also carried out after planting seedlings in the phase of 3-4 pairs of leaves. The central shoot is pruned at the level of 2-3 nodes, which further promotes better tillering and abundant flowering plants.

Helichrysum bractae

Pinching to prolong flowering

Every summer gives flower growers surprises. Either it shines with a rainbow, then it cries with rain, then it smiles with a ruddy sun. But sometimes the “gift” of summer is the merciless heat that turns a flower garden into a desert. In such unfavorable conditions, plants rush to leave behind offspring. You can often see how, after a short flowering, Chinese carnation, Iberis umbelliferae, Drummond's phlox, lobularia and hybrid gatsania are already swaying seed pods on their branches...

To enjoy bright colors as long as possible, flowering can be extended. To do this, shoots must be cut off at a height of 5-8 cm from the ground. Afterwards, feed and water the bush. After one to two weeks, flowers will appear on the newly formed shoots.

Ageratum, calendula, salvia, verbena, Snapdragon, petunia, pelargonium, godetia grandiflora, marigolds, and others are plants whose flowering can be prolonged by plucking out wilted inflorescences. Of course, very large areas It's difficult to do this alone. But on small garden plots It’s quite possible to implement your plans, even for a beginner. Moreover, the reward for your work is the opportunity to admire the play of colors until late autumn.

Space for creativity

A little imagination, skills with scissors and the hands of a florist can work wonders. But this is provided that there is santolina, coleus, perilla or, for example, ragus on the site. These plants with variegated or curly leaves are easy to pinch and shape. So it won’t be difficult to create a small hedge or colorful border with their help.

But, not a single plant compares with. It will give you the opportunity to feel like a real sculptor. By trimming twig by twig, a lush bush can be turned into a pyramid, cube or ball. And the sculpture is simple and unpretentious, but it was made with your own hands. What could it be the best decoration a flower garden, if not a creation dear to the heart?

Kochia broom

If quality is more important than quantity...

Asters, gillyflowers, zinnias and chrysanthemums are beautiful not only in a flowerbed, but also in a bouquet. To grow the largest flowers possible, side shoots must be removed during budding. For dahlias grown for cutting, you need to remove the side shoots, and of the three buds formed on each peduncle, leave two, breaking off the middle one.

Thus, knowing these simple rules formation of annuals and, applying them in practice, you will be convinced that flowers are the most grateful creatures!

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What flowers to plant is a question that is asked by almost all gardeners and plot owners. The desire to get chic and constantly blooming flower bed makes professionals and amateurs look for the most exotic flowers. But one flower is sure to be found in any garden or flower bed. This is a perennial autumn aster. This is a flower that blooms one of the last and delights with its bright colors during the period of prolonged autumn rains. In this article we will look at the features of a flower that is familiar to us, talk about the main types of perennial aster and popular varieties, and also learn all the nuances of agricultural technology for growing this autumn beauty.

Features and description of perennial aster

Perennial asters are flowers that few people notice in the summer. They most often act as a background for other flowering plants and delight only with their greenery. And only with the arrival of autumn they amaze with a riot of flowering. Star flowers different color They are decorated with lush green bushes and attract the eye. Aster is the rightful queen of the autumn garden.

Aster is a perennial herbaceous plant and belongs to the Asteraceae or Compositae family. This is a completely different genus of plants and should not be confused with annual asters, which are also called callistephus. Perennial aster is found in nature almost all over the world: it grows in Europe and Asia. North Africa, America. Cultivate this flowering plant became at the end of the 16th century.

Description of the perennial aster:

• Perennial asters have different stem heights. Depending on the species, they can reach an average of 25 cm to 160-180 cm.
• Represent herbaceous perennials, growing in the form of a bush.
• The stems of perennial aster are erect and branched.
• The shoots are densely covered with foliage, which has an elongated flat shape and a rich dark green color.
• Perennial aster flowers have the shape of stars and reach 4-5 cm in diameter. There are various colors: blue, purple, white, pink.
• This type The plants are quite hardy and can survive the first frosts and even falling snow.
• Perennial asters come in many forms. Their flowers are simple, double and semi-double.
• Today, there are more than 500 different varieties of perennial aster, but only a small part of them is cultivated in gardens.
• Aster begins to bloom from June to October. It all depends on the specific variety. According to the time of flowering, all perennial asters are divided into three groups.

Photo of a perennial aster on the site

The perennial aster looks beautiful on the site. Compact bushes with bright star flowers, even when planted alone, look great against the background of the lawn. The presented photos show all the beauty of these flowers in landscape design.

Astra in a single planting:

Perennial aster of compact varieties along the paths:

Tall aster:

Main types and popular varieties of perennial aster

Perennial asters amaze with their diversity of species and varieties. They can be divided by flowering time, bush height, and flower shape. All varieties of perennial aster have their own characteristics that allow you to create incredibly beautiful flower beds.

Based on flowering time, perennial aster is divided into the following groups:

• early asters - flowering begins in May and lasts until the end of June;
• summer asters - flowering begins in July and lasts until the end of August;
• autumn or late asters - such flowers begin to bloom only in September and delight until October.

Let's take a closer look at each group and highlight the types of perennial asters that correspond to each group.

Early asters

• Perennial alpine aster. This type of asters is one of the most common. She is considered low growing plant, can reach an average height of only 15-30 cm, so it is ideal for decorating the edges of flower beds and for planting along paths. Growing perennial alpine aster is considered the easiest for amateur gardeners, which is why this flower is so popular. The flowers of this aster are single inflorescences with a diameter of 5 cm. The colors are also very diverse: white, purple, blue, pink, purple, red. Flowering begins at the end of May and lasts until July. Popular varieties: “Albus” (with white flowers), “Happy End” (pale pink flowers), “Rosea” ( pink flowers), "Gloria" (sky blue flowers).

• Perennial Anders' aster. Also is spring flower. This type of perennial aster is low-growing. It can reach a height of 30-40 cm, less often 50 cm. The flowers have a bright purple color. The most popular varieties: low purple “daisy” and Tongolese.

Aster perennial summer flowering period

• Italian aster. A bright representative of this group of asters. It is often called chamomile aster. This perennial, reaches a height of 60 cm. Therefore, it can be planted as single bushes or placed along the fence. The flowers of this species are collected in corymbs and reach a diameter of 4 cm. The flowers are light purple, pink or blue. The Italian aster blooms from the end of July. Popular varieties: “Lady Hindlip” (pale lilac flowers), “Veilchenkoenigin” (light blue flowers).

• Bessarabian aster. It is a variety of Italian perennial aster, but differs more large flowers and a distinct brown core. "Rubellus" and "Cassubicus major" are the most common varieties of this aster.

Autumn perennial aster

This is perhaps one of the most numerous groups. It’s not for nothing that the perennial aster is called the queen of the autumn garden.

• New England aster. This plant is a tall plant; it can reach a height of up to 2 meters, so it can be planted in the center of a flower bed or along a fence. Flowers are collected in a thick brush of 20-25 pieces. One flower can reach 3-4 cm in diameter. It begins to bloom in early September with white, pink, purple or purple flowers. Popular varieties: “Bars Pink” (carmine flowers), “Browmann” (purple-lilac flowers), “Gerberose” (pink flowers).
• New Belgian aster. This type of aster can be classified as either tall or compact flowering plants. On average it can reach 40-150 cm in height. The flowers are collected in panicles, which are located on highly branched woody stems. It begins to bloom in September with pink or purple flowers. The peculiarity of this species is that during flowering due to large quantity You can't even see the flowers or foliage. Popular varieties: "Amethyst" (dark purple semi-double flowers), "Ballatd" (hot pink flowers).

• Aster is a perennial bush. Is a compact flowering bush, which reaches a height of 50 cm. Flowering begins in mid-September and blooms until the onset of cold weather. The flowers are white or light purple in color. Popular varieties: “Alba flor plena” (snow-white flowers), “Blue Bird” (light purple flowers), “Venus” (lilac-pink flowers).

These types of perennial asters are represented by a large number of varieties, from which everyone can choose something special for their site.

Preparing perennial aster before planting

An important step on the path to obtaining a beautiful and flowering plant is the choice right place, as well as preparing soil suitable for perennial aster.

Selecting a location

Growing perennial aster is possible anywhere, but to obtain a lush bush and a large number of brightly blooming flowers, you need to choose a specific place. Aster grows well in open sunny areas. Good lighting will promote harmonious growth of the entire plant, not just the stems and foliage. The right location will give you a profusely flowering plant in the future.

The choice of location also depends on the type and variety of perennial aster. If you want to plant several species, then select the height so that after flowering early varieties, they did not block the later ones. For framing garden paths perfect low-growing varieties, and tall ones can be used for single plantings or for planting along a fence. Most often, compact varieties of perennial aster are used in gardens and flower beds.

Soil selection and preparation

Asters prefer to grow in medium-heavy, loose and permeable soils. loamy soils. It is very important for the growth of asters to apply complex and mineral fertilizers. It is important for them that the soil drains moisture well; in places where groundwater stagnates, perennial aster will grow poorly.

Before planting a perennial aster, it is imperative to prepare the soil, dig it very carefully and add organic and mineral elements to create fertility.

Planting perennial aster

Planting, replanting and propagation of perennial aster is carried out in the spring. Alternatively, planting material can be purchased in specialized stores and professional nurseries. Aster can be planted with seeds, you can also purchase ready-made seedlings or grow it using cuttings and dividing the bush (if such a plant already exists on your site).

Planting aster with seeds

Growing perennial aster from seeds is suitable only for varieties of alpine aster; for all others, this method is unacceptable. The reason for this is weak seedlings, which have difficulty taking root. It is necessary to sow perennial aster seeds in autumn period, immediately after their collection. However, for alpine aster, the best time for sowing is spring, when the earth warms up well. With the onset of warmth, seedlings appear, and in the fall, young plants can be transplanted to a permanent place. During germination, it is necessary to water the plant abundantly, loosen and feed it. A perennial aster can grow in one place for no more than 5 years, then I replant it.

Growing perennial aster by cuttings

The most common method of planting and propagating perennial asters. Preparations should begin in the spring, when young shoots appear. For cuttings, the tops of shoots 10-15 cm long are cut off. Make sure that the lower cut is made obliquely. The lower leaves can be completely removed, leaving only the top couple. Before planting, the cuttings must be kept in water or in a special growth stimulator, following the instructions.

Next, they must be placed at an angle in the ground in partial shade in a special shelter with film. Rooting usually occurs within one month. Boxes or greenhouses are suitable for planting. Ideal soil mixture will turf land, peat and sand. The resulting substrate can be treated with potassium permanganate. Flowers can be left at the rooting site until next spring, and only then transplanted to a permanent place.

Growing aster by dividing the bush

This method is suitable if it’s time to replant mature plant to a new place. Typically, one aster bush in a permanent place can grow for 4-5 years, and then it must be replanted. This is where dividing the bush will help. You can divide the bushes in autumn and spring. Suitable for early varieties autumn time, and for later ones - spring.

When dividing a bush, dig it up and remove the soil from the roots. Then, using a sharp pruner, you need to separate the parts with young roots and shoots. It is best to discard the old root altogether.

Features of caring for perennial asters

Although the aster is perennial and unpretentious plant, however, she also needs care and attention.

Watering

Watering must be carried out constantly. And in dry times it should definitely be increased, especially when the green mass begins to grow.

Loosening and mulching

Asters love light and breathable soil, so during the season it is necessary to loosen the soil around the plant and remove weeds. Can this process minimize by adding mulch. Use sawdust, peat or bark as mulch. This will help retain moisture, prevent the soil from drying out, and also slow down the growth of weeds.

Top dressing

This is a mandatory step, since asters love soils rich in mineral and organic elements. You can use organic matter, phosphorus fertilizers and lime. It is especially important to feed with phosphorus fertilizers and humus during the growing season. This will allow the plants to gain strength before flowering.

Trimming and garter

Asters, depending on the type, require additional care. Shrub asters, as well as low-growing compact bushes, require pruning to form a crown. If you planted such asters along paths, pruning will help create a beautiful hedge.

For tall asters, it is necessary to prepare a support, as they can reach 2 meters in height. Usually long, strong pegs are used, or the plant is planted along the fence in advance.

Preparing for winter

The perennial aster is an unpretentious plant that is not afraid of winter frosts and cold. However, before winter you should still cut off the shoots at the root and cover the soil with compost and fallen leaves. Young plants will especially need this care.

Pest and disease control

Asters can be affected by gray mold or powdery mildew. This may be due to bad weather or Not proper care. To prevent such diseases, you should properly care for the plant and also treat it periodically during the season. soap solution or special drugs.

Aster is a stunning flowering plant that is ideal for our climate. And by paying enough attention to it and organizing proper care, you will get bright plant with lots of flowers.

Astra - beautiful flower. Not at all exotic, but not a single flower bed in our front gardens can do without it. Its beautiful flowers of various shades delight us in the long, warm autumn until the first snow. Perennial Astra is herbaceous plant with small leaves and flowers that bloom in late summer. Peonies and chrysanthemums are similar to it, and therefore they are often confused.

Flowers are:

• White;
• Burgundy;
• Lilac;
• Pink;
• Purple.

The height, depending on the variety, varies from 20 cm to 150 cm.

This plant has many varieties that have different bush heights and color of flowers. As a result, by mixing and matching varieties you can create the most beautiful flower bed, which will delight us all autumn with its flowering.

The variety of colors allows aster to occupy a leading position in popularity in landscape design

Perennial low growing

Among the wide variety of perennial Asters, a group of low-growing dwarf Asters stands out well. They grow to a height of 20 cm, and with their help rock gardens and the edges of all kinds of ridges and flower beds are decorated.

When the flowers bloom, the small bush is completely covered with flowers, so that you can hardly even see the greenery.

Gardeners appreciate the view for excellent frost resistance, covering them with spruce branches will only be necessary in the northern regions of Russia, where there are severe and prolonged frosts.

In contrast, there is the variety Callistephus Chinese. The variety is also known as an annual, as it blooms from mid-summer to October.

Pink

Alpine, New Belgian and other species can also have pink shades of flowers. perennial Asters. They all differ in flowering time and bush height.

Bush

Bush - a perennial species, grows as a compact bush about 50 cm in height. The species' homeland is recognized North America . Flowering begins in September and lasts until the first frost.

Shades of inflorescences:

• White
• Lilac

White

White perennial is also not the name of the species, since many varieties of Alpine and Italian perennial Asters bloom with white flowers.

Alpine

A common variety with early flowering. Aster is native to the Alps. The height of an adult bush is 30 cm. In sunny areas it can grow to about 15 cm. It is often planted at the front edge of the flowerbed or along garden paths.

Flowers blooming on a bush have the following parameters:

Italian

This perennial Astra grows to a height of 60 cm and is a representative of this species, which is planted in the middle ground of flower beds. Its inflorescences resemble chamomile flowers and have a diameter of up to 4 cm and light purple color of the petals.

If not for the purple petals, the Italian would be a copy of the chamomile

New England: high view

Tall, grows up to 150 cm in height. Therefore, it is planted with a tapeworm in the center of the flowerbed, planting it different varieties. Flower buds collected in dense brushes of 25 pieces, the diameter of a single flower reaches 4 cm.

Shades of colors:

• White;
• Pink;
• Purple.

Landing

It is important for the flowerbed to look beautiful and please the eye. choose the right varieties Asters and plant them correctly. All the procedures are simple, but they should be followed in order for the perennial to delight with its flowering.

How to choose a landing site

In order for the bushes to grow well and not get sick, and in the fall to be completely covered with flower buds, you need to choose the right place in the flowerbed. The soil in the area allocated for perennial Asters should be sufficiently loose and nutritious.

Check the quality of the soil BEFORE planting, otherwise the flower may get sick and grow poorly.

If the soil is poor in microelements, then before planting it is worth applying complex fertilizers.

Before planting the rhizomes of the plant, humus cannot be added, since unrotted humus will provoke the development of fusarium.

The place should be sunny, but the flowers easily tolerate partial shade or a lacy shadow due to the foliage of a tree.

If the groundwater in the garden lies very close to the soil surface, then when planting, make a 10 cm cushion of gravel to avoid rotting of the plant’s root system.

How to sow seeds correctly

The perennial Astra reproduces well by sowing seeds. To do this, untreated seeds are treated with any growth stimulant and fungicide, after which they are planted in prepared boxes up to 10 cm deep, filled with nutritious soil.

To make the rows even, they can be made with a knife or a wooden ruler.

The depth of planting seeds in the ground should be no deeper than 2 cm.

After the seeds have been placed in the prepared grooves, they are sprinkled with a small layer of disinfected (calcined) sand. After which the soil should be spilled with a pink solution of potassium permanganate - this will prevent the seedlings from becoming infected with the “black leg”.

In order for the seedlings to sprout more amicably, the seedling box is covered with glass or placed in a transparent bag for education greenhouse conditions.

The air temperature in the room where seedlings are grown should be +20 degrees. When most of the germinated seedlings appear, the glass is removed and the first watering is carried out.

What time to grow

The end of March is the best time to start sowing perennial Asters for seedlings. If you need to propagate by seeds by sowing seeds directly into open ground, then this period depends on the gardener’s habitat.

In the southern regions of Russia, they are planted in open ground, depending on weather conditions, in early April and covered with film to create greenhouse conditions. In the Moscow region the beginning of sowing seeds occurs in the first days of May, since return frosts can also occur at the end of May.

Seeds can also be sown in the fall before winter, but then they will need to be covered with peat, which will protect them from freezing.

How to grow seedlings

To prevent the seedlings from stretching excessively, they must be taken to a cooler room, where the air temperature will be approximately 16 degrees Celsius. The room should be sunny.

Timely turning of seedlings towards the light guarantees their proper development

In order for the seedlings to develop evenly on all sides, it is necessary turn different sides in relation to the sun.

Do not forget to water in a timely manner, preventing young seedlings from drying out.

Basic rules of care

In order for perennial bushes to please their owner, they must be cared for. Here are some wishes that must be fulfilled when cultivating the plant.

Watering

Any Asters and perennials are also quite drought-resistant plants. But in order for the flowering to be lush during the summer, it is necessary to regularly water the plant. But they should not be flooded, and therefore, during periods when there is no rain, perennial water is watered. once every 10 days.

If there is a lack of moisture, the bush will turn yellow and drop its leaves.

Temperature

Temperature does not matter much, but at an average temperature of 28 degrees Celsius the plant develops well. If the air temperature drops to +5 degrees or rises above 35 degrees, Astra falls into a dormant state.

Naturally, the root system does not develop and flower buds do not form.

Fertilizers

The plant requires three feedings during the growing season. Of course they can live without additional conditions, but fertilizing a flower will lead to more luxuriant flowering and beautiful bush shape.

Make all fertilizing only after watering - this will save root system plants.

Diseases and pests

Fusarium - this disease cannot be treated; all perennial Asters infected with this disease are destroyed outside the site. But the disease can be prevented while doing prevention:

1. Do not fertilize the soil intended for planting Asters with manure.
2. The soil is limed, thereby reducing its acidity.

Fusarium is dangerous not only for aster - this disease is on the list of the most dangerous for a number of plants. For example, we already wrote about it in the section.

Incurability makes fusarium one of the most dangerous enemies of asters

Rust on sheet plates is the convex parts that are located on the bottom side sheet plate. Diseased plants are destroyed, and the rest are treated with the drug "Hom".

Sometimes you can notice aphids and onion bugs on the bushes - these pests can be easily destroyed by diluting one Iskra tablet in a bucket of water.

Treatment of a diseased plant should begin immediately after the disease is detected.

Flower propagation methods

Except seed propagation For perennial Asters, there are simpler ways:

1. Dividing an adult bush.
2. By cuttings.

Dividing the bush is The easiest way which should be used to propagate a perennial plant. Best time This is what spring is for. An adult bush can be divided once every 4 years; this time is enough for the divided bush to acquire a large number of roots and branches on the bush.

Therefore, to propagate a bush, you need to:

1. Dig up an old bush.
2. Using a shovel, divide it into parts containing the roots and vegetation mass of the plant.
3. They are planted in prepared holes and watered so that they take root better.

Don't forget to maintain the temperature - create greenhouse conditions using a simple glass jar

Cuttings are carried out just as easy, like dividing a bush. For this purpose, in June they cut apical cuttings and planted in the ground where there is no sun. For greenhouse conditions, it is good to cover it with a three-liter glass jar.

Watering is done as the soil dries. They spend their first winter under the can, and in the spring it is removed and the young bushes are transplanted to their permanent place of growth.

Perennial Astra is unpretentious plant, which deserves its place in the garden in the flower beds. Because we can’t imagine without her autumn garden. By following simple rules for caring for it, you can observe all its beauty when it blooms against the background of yellowed foliage.