Chimney passage through the roof. Ceiling cutting for the chimney Connection of the pipe to the roof in the bathhouse

In a private house or in a bathhouse with stove heating, there is always an increased risk of fire due to the close proximity of the heat source to flammable materials. Therefore, the installation of stoves and fireplaces and, in particular, internal chimneys requires compliance with the rules fire safety, established in SNiP. The most dangerous area of ​​a stove heating system in a house is the place where the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling, ceiling and roof truss system. Since the chimney pipe becomes very hot when smoke and gases pass through it, if flammable materials are located close to them, they can ignite and cause a fire. You can avoid a dangerous situation by observing the requirements for chimney installation and using special ceiling-passage units.

The ceiling-passage unit is a protective box that is installed in a designated or specially cut hole in the ceiling and roofing pie. There is a hole inside the box through which the chimney pipe is led out. The main task of the protective ceiling pass-through node- insulate the chimney, preventing it from coming into contact with flammable roofing materials or heating them to dangerous levels.

Ceiling-passage units can be purchased ready-made or manufactured independently in accordance with SNiP and fire safety standards. Finished goods – best option, because their design already provides for thermal insulation of the chimney. For installation, it is enough to select a box that matches the size and geometry of the chimney.

Important! Before installation in the ceiling, the unit must be insulated with heat-insulating material. Basalt mineral wool and foil screens, which can withstand high temperatures and have low thermal conductivity, are best suited for this purpose.

Regulatory requirements and fire safety rules

The exact requirements and figures regulating the rules for installing a chimney and its passage through the roofing and rafter system are contained in SNiP 41-01-2003, namely in section 6.6. The key condition that determines the safety of the chimney pipe through the roof is that the maximum heating temperature of surrounding structures and materials should not exceed 50°C.

In modern baths, the stove has not been heated “black” for a long time, because a chimney certainly rises above each steamy room, with the help of which all carbon monoxide smoke is eliminated. Moreover, the chimney helps to warm up the interior of the room much faster, and also creates a cozy atmosphere for relaxation, eliminating smoke and soot.

When building a bathhouse on their own, home craftsmen must take care of installing not only a chimney, but also additional components that will increase the properties fire safety. Of particular note, from the point of view of fire insurance, is the ceiling cut. After all correct installation The ceiling-passage assembly for the bath will not allow a fire to occur, which means that all the owner’s property will be securely preserved. We will consider later in the article what the installation of the analyzed node is based on, and in what sequence it is carried out.

Material for fire protection of ceiling-passage assembly

First of all, you should choose quality material, helping to prevent excessive heating of all elements that will come into contact with the ceiling walk-through assembly (CPU). There are several materials you can use for this event:

• using mineralite, which is based on cement, limestone, cellulose, mica;
• using mineral construction wool;
• using asbestos cardboard or basalt analogue.

The above materials will help to reliably protect the wooden elements of the steam room from fire, which can occur at very elevated temperatures. Of course, everyone has the right to decide for themselves which material to choose. But, if we consider environmental friendliness and harmlessness, experts recommend choosing mineralite or basalt cardboard. But it is better to refuse asbestos cardboard, since the product being analyzed can emit harmful fumes, especially when heated.

Step-by-step installation of a ceiling-passage assembly

Having chosen the most suitable thermal insulation material, you can begin step-by-step assembly steam room ceiling trim. But initially you should choose a place on the ceiling in which you need to make a hole for the chimney outlet and, of course, determine the dimensions of the future structure.

Step-by-step installation of a chimney pipe outlet

The selection and installation of a place for future ceiling cutting is carried out in the following sequence:

1. To accurately select the place where the chimney goes out, it is recommended to use a special plumb line used by builders.
2. After the hole the right size done, it would be a good idea to decorate it on all sides so that the ceiling does not lose its aesthetic appeal. For decoration, you can choose a galvanized sheet of metal or stainless steel.
3. The finishing material is cut with metal scissors in a size that should exceed the size of the finished hole by several centimeters.
4. The cut sheet of metal is attached to the ceiling with ordinary nails or stainless steel screws.

It is imperative to keep in mind that you need to start marking the vertical holes from the roof of the bathhouse, and control the center using a plumb line.

Step-by-step installation of a ceiling-passage unit

Available for free sale various options passage units - both with round and rectangular cross-sections. Installing components of various configurations will not cause any particular difficulties if home craftsmen carry out installation in the following sequence:

At this stage, the process of installing the ceiling-passage unit for the steam room can be considered complete. Beginning builders will only have to decorate the finished unit if necessary and check the efficiency of the cutting unit. As you can understand, the process of installing polyurethane foam is not that complicated, and a minimum number of tools and materials are required. Therefore, every home craftsman can handle the installation of the unit.

How to install a ceiling-passage assembly for a bathhouse with your own hands

Every bathhouse must have a chimney to prevent choking carbon monoxide from hovering in the steam room. But it is equally important to take care of the presence of fire protection

Pipe passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting - is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a bathhouse. This is due to the high frequency of fires due to the ignition of wooden structures near chimneys, and this is exactly what the floors and ceilings in baths are like.

Pipe passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse

Safety rules dictate the need to exclude unprotected contact between hot pipe and flammable materials. To comply with them, when installing a chimney in a bathhouse, you need to build a special ceiling passage unit in the form of a box using fire-retardant materials, and carry it out in strict accordance with the standards.

You can make a passage through the ceiling with your own hands

Fire safety standards and regulations

Any developer can become familiar with what chimney equipment is considered safe according to SNiP 41-01-2003.

Construction norms and rules of the Russian Federation SNiP 41-01-2003

We are interested in clause 6.6.22, which dictates a setback of 130 mm in the area of ​​passage through the floors for a brick pipe made with wood protection. It is known that brick and concrete pipes have lower heat transfer than modern metal pipes, which are most often used in baths. This means that when arranging the cutting of a single-walled metal pipe without thermal protection, you should be guided by other deviation numbers that are indicated in Appendix “K”:

• 500 mm to wood without thermal protection;
• 380 mm from the heated pipe to the flammable pipe behind a layer of thermal insulation.

These figures should be considered as distances from the smoke inside the chimney to the tree.

Errors in arranging a ceiling passage assembly

Manufacturers of stoves and chimneys provide documentation that necessarily indicates the possible value of the distances to ceilings made of various materials. They should be used as a guide when independently constructing a passage for a bath pipe through the ceiling.

What materials can be used for fire protection when installing polyurethane foam?

Both brick, ceramic, and metal parts of interfloor cutting units are heated to temperatures that create a risk of wood fire. To reliably isolate the flammable elements of the ceiling pie, you need to make a gasket made of protective materials.

These are materials that can protect wooden parts from charring and fire at high temperatures in a high-heat zone. But the primary cladding of the ends of the floor, if the necessary indents are observed, can be carried out not only by them. For these purposes, it is allowed to use materials with flammability class G1 (low flammability).

Glass-magnesium sheet (GML)

The choice of thermal insulator can play a decisive role. It should be remembered that ordinary mineral wool, which is sometimes recommended to be used for filling the passage unit, sinteres when heated and quickly loses its fire-retardant properties.

Stone wool has a fiber sintering temperature of over 1000ºС

High temperature leads to a change in its structure - while remaining unchanged in appearance, it can heat up significantly and can no longer cope with thermal insulation. To ensure reliable thermal insulation of the chimney, it is necessary to use basalt wool, designed for operation at temperatures of 800-1000°C.

An example of insulating a ceiling groove with basalt wool

The PPU box is filled with heat-insulating basalt fiber

It is also safe to lay mineralite, asbestos or basalt cardboard. There is also a time-tested a budget option thermal protection - sand was used for it (the passage box was filled with it) and clay. For example, sufficient thermal insulation of the part of the ceiling to which the box is attached is achieved by applying an even layer of clay about 2 cm thick to a metal sheet with a flange.

Comparison of materials for fire resistance

Features of using a “sandwich” chimney when passing through the ceiling of a bathhouse

Modern metal sauna stoves are often supplemented steel pipes made of ferrous or stainless metal. Wanting to reduce hard IR radiation and make the contact point between the chimney and the ceiling above the stove safer, bathhouse owners use a “sandwich” - a double pipe with a thermal insulation layer.

Sandwich pipe elements Photo of chimney pipes

Important! In no case should the connection of the chimney elements be at the level of the ceiling passage.

Contrary to popular belief, the outer casing of a stainless steel sandwich is not much cooler than the main chimney. This pipe design, in principle, does not serve to protect the bathhouse from fire - the sandwich provides the best conditions for stable traction, which is precisely its main task. When considering fire protection measures, one should not hope that the use of a sandwich at the passage point makes it possible to reduce the distance of indentations.

It is known that due to the burning out of volatile compounds in the pipe itself, the temperature in it increases for some time as the altitude increases. If at the level of the furnace exit the gases have a temperature of 800°C, at a level of 1.5-2 m the measurements will already show 850°C. Under these conditions, the outer casing can be heated to 300°C, as evidenced by the tarnished colors on its surface.

Wanting to heat the bathhouse faster, overheating the stove, it is easy to exceed the optimal regime for the passage of combustion products through the pipe. According to the standards of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the temperature in stainless steel chimneys should not exceed 400°C; tests for certification are carried out precisely at these values. Most steam lovers far exceed these parameters. The metal quickly burns out due to overheating, and you need to understand that the sandwich can turn into a single-walled sandwich at any moment. The insulation with which the sandwich is stuffed also does not serve as a panacea for fire. If you assemble a chimney “for smoke” and not “for moisture”, the thermal insulator heats up during combustion, and after cooling it is saturated with condensate - as a result, over time it loses its useful properties.

All of the above leads to a certain conclusion - you should not frivolously reduce the recommended margins, hoping for a protective sandwich casing.

Drawing of a ceiling passage unit

Important: when using metal furnaces and stainless steel chimneys when installing a ceiling passage, the optimal distance from smoke to wooden structures is 380 mm!

Stages of ceiling cutting installation

The main tasks that the builder faces when arranging the passage of a chimney through the ceiling of a bathhouse are protection from fire of the ceiling and an even vertical installation pipes. The work takes place in three stages:

• determination and arrangement of the location of the cutting unit;
• installation of a ready-made or self-made protective casing;
• final thermal protection gasket.

This general rules, A specific methods the work depends on many factors - the allocated budget, preferences in the choice of materials, even on whether the technologies were followed during the construction of the bathhouse.

Preparing a place for the chimney passage through the ceiling

The center of the pipe passage is determined using a plumb line. The cutout is made according to the markings, slightly reducing the size of the sides so that the future decorative panel completely covered it.

A self-made passage, as a rule, is decorated on the steam room side with a sheet of metal - galvanized or stainless steel, which also serves as a heat shield. The dimensions of the sheet must exceed the size of the cutout for the pipe.

1. A vertically positioned chimney will pass through both the ceiling and the roof. When marking the chimney, you should start from the highest point and use a plumb line.
2. When using ready-made polyurethane foam structures, they are guided by the hole sizes recommended by the manufacturer.
3. By passing the chimney through the ceiling independently, without an industrially manufactured unit, a preliminary calculation of the passage duct is made. Strictly above the passage of the pipe in the ceiling pie, it is necessary to make a through hole, the dimensions of which allow the required indentations to be observed. They are calculated as follows: for example, a pipe diameter of 120 mm, a sandwich with 50 mm insulation will pass through the ceiling. The resulting outer size is 230 mm. We find the permissible distance by adding two distances of indents with internal diameter, to the smoke. According to safety standards, this is 2*380+120=880 mm.

Important! It's good if the exact location sauna stove and the chimney is thought out during the preparation of the project. In this case, it is easy to calculate the installation of load-bearing floor beams in order to provide the necessary space for the safe passage of pipes between them.

Construction of an opening for the chimney

Otherwise, the first thing you need to start work with is changing the design of the ceiling above the stove. Part of the beam that is too close to the hot chimney is cut out and strengthened by installing jumpers firmly attached to the resulting ends. Then the ceiling is covered.

Installation of a finished cutting unit - feedthrough pipe

The advantages of using a factory design are the ease of installation and the obviously aesthetic appearance of the ceiling in the steam room.

It is assumed that a sandwich will be used as a chimney when inserted into the finished polyurethane foam. The dimensions of standard devices are small to ensure reliable insulation of a single-wall chimney.

Ceiling passage units of various configurations are available for sale. The design is based on a rectangular or round section, rigidly connected to a sheet that serves both for protection from heat from below and for decorative finishing. In the center there is a cutout for the pipe; the unit is selected according to its diameter. Ready-made walk-through structures are made of metal, most often stainless steel, and mineralite, with or without a thermal insulator gasket. The best in terms of their properties are combined ones, having an internal metal box and an external mineralite box with an air fireproof layer between them.

Install the floor passage unit in this way.

1. The ends of the hole cut in the ceiling are covered with a layer of heat insulation, beating wood around the perimeter.
2. The bottom sheet of the device and all places of possible contact between metal and wood are laid with a layer of non-combustible sheet material. Good ones here: mineralite, asbestos and foil basalt cardboard.
3. The finished structure is placed on the elbow, which will be located in the passage unit, and brought to the hole cut in the ceiling. From the steam room below, the finished unit is fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws; usually the holes for them are provided in advance by the manufacturer.
4. The diameter of the bore hole is always greater than the diameter of the pipe. Rigid binding is unacceptable due to thermal deformations; a gap of at least 5 mm is required. Based on what material will be used as fire protection near the pipe, a decision is made on the advisability of insulating the gap. If necessary, the pipe at the junction is wrapped with asbestos cord.
5. From above, on the ceiling of the attic, additional thermal insulation is carried out. The box is filled with expanded clay or fire-resistant mineral wool.
6. In the attic, the cutting unit is left without exterior finishing. If the upper floor is residential, the passage structure is decorated with a metal sheet.

Cutting a ceiling hole according to the markings Hole for installing a pass-through unit The box is inserted into the opening and insulated from it with basalt wool

In the photo - fastening the box to the ceiling with self-tapping screws and an inserted chimney pipe Installation of a chimney pipe through a ceiling groove Fixing the top steel sheet

Vertical check

Homemade pipe passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse - step-by-step instruction with photo

• tin for making cutting boxes;
• minerite;
• stainless steel sheet;
• sheet of gypsum board or basalt cardboard;
• The material for filling the box is expanded clay, but dry clay can also be used.

The pipe passage in this example is carried out at the stage before finishing ceiling. This is not important; the sequence of operations does not change.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse - a portal about bathhouse construction technologies

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse The passage of a chimney through the ceiling between floors - ceiling cutting - is one of the most critical stages in the construction of a bathhouse. This is due to the high frequency

How to make a ceiling assembly

In one of the previous articles about baths in the old days, the fact was mentioned that these wooden buildings always placed near water and away from residential buildings. This was primarily due to the fact that they often burned. The absence of a chimney as such and a thatched roof - this was the reason for the fires.

Currently, bathhouse construction technologies have advanced; many modern building materials, but they didn’t burn less often. This is the result of inept operation of stoves (we heat until the ears begin to curl into tubes) and an erroneous chimney design.

About the first reason we can say this - you need to balance your desires with your capabilities (correct selection of the stove) and simply follow the culture of sauna preparation.

But still, most often fire or smoke occurs due to improper smoke removal.

Now let’s take a closer look at the most problematic area of ​​the chimney system - the place where it passes through the ceiling.

The part of the channel passing through the ceilings is usually called cutting. It can be ceiling or roofing.

It is also called a ceiling-passage unit (CPU).

No matter how connoisseurs of a real Russian bathhouse oppose metal stoves, it must be admitted that at present the overwhelming majority purchase precisely such devices. And they, in turn, with rare exceptions, are supplied with iron chimneys. Therefore, we will understand the cutting device using the example of the presented data.

So, the stove has been selected and installed in its proper place. It is taken into account that no ceiling beam or roof rafter will stand in the way of the proposed chimney. Further work depends on the readiness of the ceiling.

In this case, there are two options:

The overlap is done with the chimney already installed,

The pipe is installed when the rough or finishing ceiling is ready.

In the first case, it is somewhat easier to arrange the cutting; there is no need to adjust or move anything. But this option is rather an exception; much more often, the installation of the furnace is carried out after the ceilings are ready.

In this case, it is determined as precisely as possible where the channel should go, then this place is cut out to the size of the cutting.

Its factory version is a ready-made box made of polished stainless steel. Steel grade and product thickness different manufacturers not the same. It is better to purchase it immediately along with other chimney elements.

The tool and components of the d/channel are in place, let's get to work. Using a plumb line, we determine the point - the center of the channel on the ceiling: we press the thread against the ceiling board, and the weight should be fixed in the middle of the outlet pipe of the stove. Next, we take the cutting box, turn it over and put it on. Aligning its center with the marked point, we mark the contour for cutting.

You can choose a place for a passage unit in different ways, but we do this - we drill a hole in the ceiling with a drill, and then use a jigsaw to make a neat cut.

Dry figures taken from outdated SNiP, developed back in the USSR, tell us that according to fire standards, the distance between flammable material, i.e. wood or flammable insulation and the outer wall of the chimney must be at least 37cm. Modern cuttings suggest reducing this distance to 13-26 cm, provided that an insulated pipe is used. Many, fearing that this is not enough, increase this distance or additionally insulate it, replacing (adding) the assembly with sheets of mineralite, magnesite or other heat-resistant materials.

The hole of the required size is ready, then, after trying on the box and making sure that everything is as it should be, we proceed directly to installation. Having assembled the first part of the d/channel, including the element with the gate, we put a groove on it, after which we attach a sandwich pipe to the transition element, which passes through the ceiling and goes out into the attic.

Then we insulate the edges of the box adjacent to the lining with cardboard based on asbestos or basalt and fasten it to the ceiling with p/w screws.

We are carrying out further work in the attic, the task is to prevent the wood from heating up from the walls of the pipe. To do this, the space outside and inside the box must be filled with a material that has low thermal conductivity and cannot ignite. The materials used are sand, expanded clay, basalt wool, vermiculite and mineralite.

The cutting, regardless of the thickness of the ceiling, must rise above it by at least 10 cm,

If the polyurethane foam is filled with insulation. material, then it is not permissible to fasten two chimney elements here,

The joint above the ceiling of two sections of the channel is not lower than 30 cm.

Roof passage

The temperature in this part of the chimney is slightly lower than polyurethane foam, so the requirements for its insulation are not so severe. But again, cutting out the hole, installing the next pipe bend and insulating it from precipitation will take a lot of time.

We cut the roof sheathing with a jigsaw, after which, marking the center of the passage of the d/channel with a plumb line, we cut a hole in the roofing material slightly larger than the diameter of the chimney. We install the next section of pipe, not forgetting to coat the joint with heat-resistant sealant, and bring it out onto the roof. The sandwich can go through the roof either through a special roofing cut or without it.

In the first option, a ready-made structure is purchased that has different angles of inclination. It will be appropriate when constructing a room on the second floor or simply insulating the roof.

In the second, not only is it not installed, but the pipe is not even insulated. Although foil material or the same basalt insulation will not be superfluous.

The main problem of such places is water leakage, so waterproofing work should be carried out responsibly. Again, you can use an item from the store for this, because... called master flash or, if you are not looking for easy ways or are used to doing everything yourself, make it from a galvanized sheet using roofing sealant.

Well, in conclusion, I would like to say that after doing everything according to the rules, you should not forget about regularly checking all the elements of this system. And the older the chimney becomes, the more closely you need to monitor it.

Installing a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling and roof

In one of the previous articles about baths in the old days, the fact was mentioned that these wooden buildings were always located near the water and away from residential buildings. This is in

To ensure comfort and safety in a room with a stove structure, it is necessary to correctly make the passage of the chimney through the ceiling. Fire safety is ensured simple rules pipe installation. All work can be done with your own hands.

To exhaust the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to build a unit that provides the required distance from the ceiling materials to the pipe. These rules are regulated by a special document, which specifies certain recommendations:

• The distance from the surface of a concrete or brick chimney to the battens or rafters must be at least 13 centimeters.
• If the chimney is ceramic and without insulation, then the distance should be as follows: minimum 25 cm. And if there is a heat-insulating layer - 13 cm.

When installing beams, these rules must be taken into account. Their step should be about 60 cm. These recommendations apply to pipes with a layer of insulation.

The outlet pipe must have a diameter 11.5-12 cm. If a sandwich with a heat-insulating layer is laid through the ceiling, then the pipe should have a diameter of about 32 cm. On each side it is necessary to observe a distance of at least 13 cm. To calculate the distance between installed beams, you need 13 x 2 + 32, the result is 58 cm, which corresponds to the recommended 60 cm.

You can also calculate the distance of the pipe without insulation. If a pipe with an internal diameter of 11.5 cm., then the distance to the ceiling material should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there should be a distance between the beams 25 x 2 + 11.5, which equals 61.5 cm. This step is recommended for use when constructing a ceiling.

• If the partition is protected from possible fire, then when chimney thickness 12 cm, the distance should be about 26 cm. If the pipe is 5 cm thick, then the distance is 38 cm.
• If the partition is not protected from fire, then in the first case the distance can reach 32 cm, and in the case of the second option - up to 50 cm.

The document also states that you need to maintain a certain distance from the walls. Often the chimney pipe is installed near the surface of the wall, which over time can lead to a fire, since the temperature inside the chimney can be 500 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary to lay a heat-insulating layer on the surface of the wall with your own hands, and then cover it metal sheet.

Read also: Chimney cleaning

Types of nodes

Chimney passage through wooden floor It is necessary to protect from high temperatures and secure the pipe in a special position. This is what cutting is intended for; its second name is “passage unit.”

It is recommended to use the device industrial production. It represents a special metal box, is attached to it on one side galvanized plate. There is a hole in the middle for inserting a sandwich. A special plate is installed on the side of the room, which covers the hole in the ceiling and acts as a decorative element. The plate also serves as a support for the heat-insulating layer, which is laid in the gap between the beam and the surface of the pipe.

Many experts claim that stainless steel cutting is the best option, since galvanized sheet under the influence of high temperatures emits harmful substances. Therefore, it is recommended to use stainless steel in a living room or bathhouse.

The ceiling unit is installed quite simply. If at the construction stage it was not planned to remove the chimney, then a hole of a certain size must be made between the beams so that the chimney can be installed. Then secure the heat insulator. To do this, you can use mineralite, stone wool or asbestos. Experts also recommend fixing metal strips.

A special device must be placed on the pipe in a straight section that passes through the ceiling. Then it needs to be raised to the required level and a thermal insulation layer secured around the edges. After this, the assembly is secured using self-tapping screws.

Products may have different configurations. In some cases, you may need a metal cylinder that fits around the hole and plate edges advocate for him a little. It should be noted that when installing such a device, the hole must also have square shape. The hole is closed using a plate. You should also protect ceiling materials from high temperatures using a heat insulator.

The unit may be without a cylinder, but it is installed around the perimeter special sides made of mineralite or metal. The edges of the device must be covered with a thermal insulation layer. It is recommended to use mineralite, as it acts as a heat insulator.

Read also: Spark arrester for chimney

Passage through the ceiling

When venting the chimney through the ceiling, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• There should be a metal pipe coming out of the oven without a heat insulator. Its length should be more than one meter, since the output is too high temperature. Above you can use a sandwich.
• Where it passes through the ceiling, the pipe must have a protected sheath. To do this, you can use an industrial sandwich or insulate the walls yourself.
• Joints are allowed only before or after the passage. Therefore, all connections need to be monitored.
• The horizontal section can have a maximum length of one meter.
• The entire chimney can have a maximum of three elbows.
• Use rigid mount is prohibited, since under the influence of high temperature the dimensions of the chimney change.

Selecting a thermal insulator

When the device is fixed to the ceiling, you need to go up to the next floor or attic to fill the distance between the beams and the chimney with heat insulation.

If the temperature in the pipe does not exceed 600 degrees, then you can use basalt wool as an insulator. However, some experts do not recommend using this option. They explain this by the fact that during the manufacturing process they use resins as a binder, and they release harmful formaldehyde under the influence of high temperatures. In addition, it forms in the chimney condensate, and when wet, the thermal protection characteristics of cotton wool deteriorate. Therefore, this option is not the best.

You can fill the gap with fine expanded clay. This is a lightweight and natural material that, if wet, quickly restores its characteristics.

Until recently, sand was most often used. But in this case there is one significant drawback: over time, the material spills out through small cracks, so the stove must be constantly cleaned and the gap must be filled again.

You can use clay. To do this, it must be diluted so that it acquires a paste-like consistency.

Some experts do not recommend insulating the unit at all and leaving it unfilled. This allows you to avoid burnout of the chimney and its overheating. But this option is not the best, since wood will dry out over time, and there is a risk of fire.

When installing a chimney of any type, the main thing is to follow fire safety rules. Any chimney is a possible source of fire, since the temperatures of the exhaust gases can be very high and the slightest violation in installation can lead to serious consequences.

Passage of a round chimney pipe through a wooden ceiling using polyurethane foam of various designs

To pass the chimney through wooden structures, you can use a ready-made ceiling-passage assembly (see photo). It is selected based on the outer diameter of the pipe. Before installation, this ceiling passage unit must be prepared: all surfaces that will come into contact with the wood of the ceiling sheathing, and all internal surfaces of the passage box, are lined with thermal insulation.

Usually basalt wool serves as thermal insulation, but it must be special: it can withstand high temperatures. When purchasing a material, make sure that it is designed for use at temperatures of 800-1000 o C. These materials have a higher cost, but it is unreasonable to skimp on safety. Cheaper options contain binders that sinter at high temperatures, causing the thermal insulation to lose all its properties, and this can lead to a fire. In addition, it is advisable to use foil heat insulator - this will make the structure even safer.

Having insulated the passage unit, prepare a place for its installation. Mark on the ceiling where the chimney will be located. Outline a hole of a suitable size: slightly smaller sizes the front panel of the pass-through unit in such a way that it is convenient to attach it to the ceiling trim with self-tapping screws. Having cut a hole, cover its edges with the same heat insulator as the pass-through unit, or any other with similar properties. To increase the level of fire safety, metal strips can be strengthened on top of the heat insulator. Insert the prepared passage unit into the finished hole. It can be put on the pipe and installed with it. Having installed this structure in place, secure the panel of the passage unit with self-tapping screws (the holes can be pre-drilled).

After checking the vertical installation of the chimney pipe, proceed to complete this stage. The voids remaining in the passage unit are filled with thermal insulation. You can use pieces of the same basalt wool or fill the voids with expanded clay. In theory, you can use sand, but you shouldn’t. It is inferior in thermal insulation properties to expanded clay and basalt wool In addition, sooner or later it will end up at the bottom, since there are cracks, and through them grains of sand will fall onto the stove.

Further actions depend on where you led the chimney: to the second floor or to the attic. But the main difference is in aesthetics and the availability of finishing. If you led the chimney pipe into the attic, the passage through the ceiling can be considered complete. If you take the chimney to the second floor or into the attic, put a protective cover on the pipe metal screen, which is now attached to the floor with the same screws. After this, you proceed to the next stage - output through the next ceiling (this is if you are on the second floor) or through the roof, if in the attic or attic.

The chimney passage through the ceiling may also look like this. This is a ready-to-use option that consists of two boxes. The inner box is made of metal, the outer one is made of heat-resistant material (in this case, mineralite).

Between them there is air gap ensuring fire safety. According to the manufacturers, the remaining free space between the sandwich pipe and the cutting box does not require filling with a heat insulator. You can leave everything as it is, or you can, for greater reliability, still add heat-resistant thermal insulation. In such a case, such as a chimney passing through a wooden ceiling, it is better to be on the safe side than to put out a fire later.

The passage through the ceiling can be like this (see photo). In this case, sealing the edges of the hole in the ceiling is mandatory (remember, there is thermal insulation around the edge first, metal on top).

Pipe passage through a chimney without a factory passage unit

It is possible to remove the chimney without a passage device. In this case, the edges of the hole in the ceiling are also sealed with a fire-resistant heat insulator, and metal strips are placed on top of it. A protective plate made of non-flammable material is put on the sandwich coming from the oven, in which a hole of a suitable diameter is cut, and holes are drilled along the edges for fasteners. Traditionally this is a sheet of metal. Next, the sandwich is passed into a hole in the ceiling and fixed there using some non-flammable guides. For example, you can use drywall profiles or something similar. The main thing is to securely fasten the pipe and observe the basic rule of fire safety: there must be a distance of at least 36 cm from the edge of the pipe to the flammable material.

Important! When installing and securing the chimney, keep in mind that the pipe changes its size due to thermal expansion. It must be secured so that it can move relative to the roof.

Then the pipe is lined with non-flammable material from below (from the ceiling). From the attic or second floor side, the voids formed in the groove are filled with a heat insulator. The requirements for it are still the same: tolerance to high temperatures. Expanded clay may be the most budget-friendly. Actually, this completes the exit of the chimney pipe through the ceiling.

Passage through the ceiling of a brick chimney

Brick itself is a good heat insulator; however, for a brick stove, compliance with the rules for passage through flammable materials is also required: there must be a distance of at least 25 cm from the edge of the chimney duct to this material. To ensure this, stove makers make a special penetration on the pipe (see picture) increasing the thickness of the wall of the brick chimney at the point of passage through the ceiling.

If for some reason it is impossible to make such a penetration, you can cut a hole in the ceiling that will be 10 centimeters larger than the size of the chimney on each side. And then repeat the penetration of the round stove through the ceiling:

• seal the edges with heat-resistant thermal insulation material;
• cover it with strips of metal (minerite is also suitable if someone has it);
• sew up the side of the room with a metal sheet;
• Fill the resulting voids on the attic/second floor side with heat-resistant thermal insulation material;
• if necessary, cover the ceiling cutout from the attic/second floor side with a sheet of metal.

With this option, the brick pipe is quite reliably insulated (just use heat-resistant heat insulating materials with a use temperature of 800-1000 o C).

Passage through the roof of a brick chimney

The passage of a chimney through the roof must simultaneously solve two not so simple problems: ensure fire safety and tightness. According to fire safety rules, in places where the chimney comes into contact with flammable materials, the temperature of the chimney walls should not be higher than 50 o C. For brick chimneys this can be solved by increasing the wall thickness. For this purpose, stove makers lay out a special penetration. There is no single solution here, since much depends on the angle of the roof. That’s why this option is not very popular today - it’s hard to find a person who can competently and safely make such a penetration through the roof.

How is the question resolved then? They just make it square or rectangular pipe, which is placed between the rafter legs, transverse beams are installed above and below the pipe. Distance between pipe and wooden elements designs – 13-25cm. If the distance between the rafters is greater, additional ones are installed. In this way, we minimize the damage that we will certainly cause to the hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof: in order to remove the pipe, we will have to violate the integrity of the films and membranes. When installing the chimney, it ends up in a separate box. The films and membranes inside this box are carefully cut. The cut geometry is similar to the geometry of a pipe or box, but smaller than the dimensions of the rafter box. In the corners of the film, they are cut at an angle (envelope), the edges of the films are folded and fixed using staples or clamping strips to the elements rafter system. The edges and entry points of fasteners are sealed with adhesive tapes or sealants. This operation should be carried out carefully - the durability and reliability of the roof depends on it.

There is another option. This is possible if the temperature of the pipe in the roof area is not higher than 50 o C. In this case, the edges of the films can be glued to the pipe with sealants or the same adhesive tapes (trying to seal everything as best as possible). Now there is free space between the rafters and the brick pipe. It is laid with a heat-resistant heat insulator.

Drainage of water from joints

It is most difficult to seal the joint between a brick pipe and a roof if a rigid roofing material is used.

First, a lower apron is installed around the pipe. It is usually made of tin and consists of four elements: two sides, a top and a bottom. How to do it, see the next video. Everything is told in detail.

A so-called “tie” must be placed under the lower apron. This is the site roofing material, a sheet of tin or galvanized metal that will divert water to the drain (the tie should be this long - extend slightly into the drain) if the chimney is located low or into the valley, if it is closer. The following video further demonstrates the technique for installing an internal brick chimney flashing and also shows how to install a tie and external decorative flashing.

In general, as many materials as there are, there are as many ways to install a pass-through unit. Another video that demonstrates another technique for waterproofing a brick pipe. They use modern materials produced by Ondulin manufacturers.

It is much easier to waterproof the joint between the chimney pipe and the roof, if used soft tiles or other soft flexible roofing material. On a plastered pipe, coated with impregnation for better adhesion, this material is simply bent and trimmed. You can apply a layer of sealant along the edge of the curved roofing material and secure everything using a pressure strip. The place where the roofing material is connected, the pipe and the strip are also treated with sealant. This video demonstrates the technique of sealing a chimney using soft tiles.

Passage through the roof of a round pipe

The passage unit for round pipes through the roof can be either metal or soft - rubber or silicone. Metal roof penetrations are made of galvanized iron, sometimes they are coated with protective covering, similar in color and composition to the coating of metal tiles.

Often, metal tile manufacturers offer special penetrations: this is the same sheet of roofing material to which an elastic rubber cap is attached, which serves as an excellent insulator.

For other roofing materials, flexible penetrations can be used as a roof penetration unit. There are many of them on the market today. Different colors, compositions, for different angles of roof inclination, straight penetrations, with different types of fastening (for self-tapping screws, with an adhesive composition, etc.).

Among all flexible penetrations, Master Flash has the most good recommendations. It is quite easy to distinguish: in addition to the company name printed on the back side roof penetration There are additional corrugated grooves that increase the degree of adherence to any roofing material. On the outside, the base along the edge has a metallized coating, with which it is easy to achieve any desired relief.

To install a flexible penetration, part of the outer cap is cut off - the diameter of the resulting hole should be less than the diameter of the pipe. The penetration is pulled onto the pipe with force. To reduce resistance, you can coat the surface of the pipe soap solution. After the penetration is tensioned, the lower flange is given the required configuration. WITH back side it is coated with sealant, then pressed against the roof and fixed with self-tapping screws. This method of sealing a round pipe is not very labor-intensive, but quite reliable.

Silicone and rubber penetrations are used at pipe temperatures up to 100 o C. If the chimney temperature is higher, you will either have to make an additional layer of insulation between the penetration and the pipe or, more likely, use a metal skirt and glass. Demonstrates what they look like and how to secure them next video. Everything was done there not entirely correctly, but the installation principle is clear.

The construction of a chimney duct to the stove requires its passage through the ceiling and out to the roof. The bathhouse pipe through the roof must pass in full compliance with fire safety rules. Otherwise, the possibility of fires increases, which will cause harm to human health.

Chimney outlet to the roof

Safety regulations

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse is regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. This document states that:

• the passage of the bath pipe in the ceiling should be located at a minimum distance of 350 mm from flammable structures and 250 mm from difficult to flammable elements;
• It is considered ideal to leave this distance not closed (air). However, such a design will lose a large number of heat;
• the specified distance is filled with non-combustible materials;
• the hole must be covered with metal sheets (stainless steel is more often used, which does not damage appearance premises);
• the pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof should not have joints. This factor must be taken into account when designing a chimney;
• maximum length the pipeline passing through the ceiling or roof should not exceed 1 m;
• The chimney should not be attached rigidly to the ceiling or roof.

Selection of thermal insulation material

The heat insulator can be following materials:

• basalt or mineral wool. The insulation can withstand heating up to 600ºС. The main disadvantages are: the release of formaldehyde, since the material contains resins and instability protective qualities when wet, which is possible in case of condensation formation;

Basalt wool

• expanded clay The material has excellent properties. When wet, expanded clay quickly restores its functions. However, to arrange the ceiling, you will have to additionally install containers in which the material will be located;

Middle fraction expanded clay

• mineralite The material consists of cement, cellulose and mineral fillers. Minerite tiles can withstand temperatures up to 600ºC. When heated, it does not emit harmful substances, and when exposed to water, it does not lose its properties;

Minerite insulation

• asbestos. It is a good insulating material, but when heated strongly it releases substances harmful to humans;
• sand or clay. The materials were used as heat insulators earlier, before the advent of modern insulation materials. However, some experts prefer to use natural materials rather than artificial ones.

Pipe joint insulation

To make the joints airtight, use:

• high strength sealants that can withstand big differences temperatures;
• special clamps made of the same material as the chimney.

Crossing the ceiling

How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling? To arrange the transition you can:

• purchase ready-made cuts;
• build the crossing yourself.

Arrangement of a ceiling transition with ready-made cutting

The finished shelf assembly is designed to facilitate the installation of a ceiling transition. You can purchase such a chimney element at any specialized store. There are two types of ready-made passages:

1. containing insulation;
2. without insulation.

The pass-through unit with finished insulation consists of:

• two plates;
• a piece of insulated pipe;

Finished ceiling assembly with insulation

An adapter without insulation consists of metal boxes that need to be filled with insulating materials and holes for pipes.

Unit for arranging a passage through a ceiling without insulation

How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling using ready-made cutting? The whole process consists of next stages:

1. make a hole in the ceiling of the required dimensions (depending on fire safety requirements and cutting dimensions);
2. in the right places, the cutting is insulated with the previously selected material;
3. the finished unit is installed in the ceiling passage;
4. a pipe is connected to the ceiling in the bathhouse. The length of the pipe should be 10 - 15 cm less than the height;
5. The next section of pipe is connected in the attic.
6. pipe joints are sealed.

Installation process of finished cutting

Arranging a ceiling transition with your own hands

For self-made transition node will need:

• metal plates;
• insulation;
• chimney pipe.

The pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling is installed according to the following scheme:

1. a hole is made in the ceiling, the diameter of which is 130 - 180 mm greater than the diameter of the stove pipe used;

Additional reinforcement ceiling beams

1. the chimney goes into the attic. In this case, the pipe connection must be higher or lower than the ceiling;
2. a metal plate is installed on the ceiling on the inside of the bathhouse;

Attaching the support metal plate

The pipe in the bathhouse is laid through the wall in a similar way. You can see the process in more detail in the video.

Exiting the smoke duct to the roof

Before you remove the pipe in the bathhouse through the roof, you need to take care of two factors necessary for the operation:

• select the location of the output;
• purchase the necessary items.

Place for withdrawal

The pipe outlet through the roof of the bathhouse can be done:

Required Items

Installing a pipe into a bathhouse through the roof is impossible without the following elements:

• cutting, similar to the passage through the ceiling;
• insulating material (compliance with safety rules);
• a special apron that protects the chimney from precipitation.

Cuttings can be used either ready-made or self-made.

Aprons can be:

Instructions for removing the pipe

How to remove a pipe in a bathhouse through the roof? To do this you need:

• make a hole of a suitable size in the selected place on the roof (slightly larger than the outlet pipe);
• Carry out reinforcement work around the hole on the floor beams;
• install a groove from the inside of the roof, as when crossing the ceiling;
• bring out the pipe of the required size;
• install an apron on the outer part of the roof.

Scheme of arranging a passage through the roof

Thus, knowing the fire safety rules and instructions for arranging the main components, you can install a chimney for a bathhouse yourself. To do this, you need to purchase all the materials and basic elements of the system. Before firing the stove for the first time, time is required to dry the sealants used (approximately 1 day) and check the tightness of all joints of the chimney duct.

vse-o-trubah.ru

How to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling with your own hands

The main aspect when building a bathhouse is the installation of the pipe in accordance with all fire safety rules. Many people prefer to install the pipe in the bathhouse through the roof. This design is the most reliable and durable. To make a chimney, you can use various materials. For example, you can use sandwich pipes or build a brick chimney. Before installing the structure, you need to make a hole of a suitable diameter and waterproof the chimney.

If you decide to install a pipe on the ceiling with your own hands, you need to choose a suitable chimney design. The pipe can be external or internal. An external chimney is less fire hazardous and easy to install. The internal location of the chimney allows you to retain more heat.

When choosing a pipe, you need to consider a number of nuances:

1. The pipe must be made of galvanized metal, ceramics or brick. The use of aluminum pipes is prohibited.
2. It is best to make pipe insulation from non-combustible materials. Expanded clay or stone wool are perfect.
3. Only foil-coated materials should be used as thermal insulation materials. Foil-coated aluminum is best.
4. If you use a sandwich pipe, then it needs to be filled with basalt wool.

When installing a pipe in a bathhouse, it is necessary to use galvanized metal; the use of aluminum is strictly prohibited

Before installing the pipe, mark the surface of the ceiling. Remember that the chimney should not come into contact with roofing materials, as it can damage them. In order to avoid damage to roofing materials, you need to install a metal casing.

Sandwich pipe in a bathhouse in the ceiling

If you are a beginner, then it is better to install a sandwich type pipe in the ceiling. It is quite easy to install and is fireproof. Sandwich pipes are usually made of several metal layers, between which some kind of fire-resistant composition is installed.

The sandwich pipe is quite easy to assemble. Assembly begins by attaching the product to the pipe. For fixation, you need to use a starting cone. One end of the starting cone is put on the pipe, and the other is mounted on a straight section of the chimney pipe.

The sandwich pipe should not be in direct contact with wooden interior elements

The sandwich pipe is cut in the following order:

• Install the unit on the roof. It is needed to tightly fix the pipe.
• Make a hole in the ceiling. Remember that its diameter should be 15 centimeters larger than the diameter of the sandwich pipe.
• Fill the space between larger diameter pipes and the sandwich pipe with sand or expanded clay.
• If you do not want to use a larger diameter pipe, you need to install a box through which the sandwich pipe will pass. The free space in the box also needs to be filled with expanded clay, sand or basalt wool.

How to make a brick pipe in a bathhouse through a wooden ceiling

A chimney made of brick is the most reliable design. Before you begin installing the structure, you need to design a chimney. During design, you should pay attention to the features of the stove that is installed in the bathhouse. Also take into account that installing a massive brick chimney is not practical in small bathhouses.

It is best to assemble the chimney on the ground, since it will be extremely difficult to do this on the roof. To raise the chimney on the roof, you can use hinges, a rod or guy wires. Clamps should be used as a fixing material for the chimney pipe.

A brick pipe is considered the safest option for removing smoke from a bathhouse

Technology for installing a chimney on the roof:

1. Make a hole for the pipe. The diameter for the passage should be 20 centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe itself.
2. Then you need to remove the product through the roof.
3. Insulate the pipe using metal sheet.
4. Seal the structure by placing the edge of the sheet under the roof.
5. Attach a metal umbrella to the chimney. It will protect the structure from moisture.
6. Apply heat-resistant paint to the chimney. It will protect the metal parts of the structure from corrosion.

Cutting a pipe on a low bathhouse ceiling: norms and rules

If you decide to remove the pipe yourself, you need to adhere to a number of rules regulated in SNiP. First of all, you need to take care of installing a special passage unit. There should be a distance of 130-150 millimeters from the outer surface of the pipe to the sheathing and rafters. If you use ceramic pipes without insulating materials, then the distance between the chimney and the rafters should be at least 260-270 millimeters.

In the attic of the bathhouse, the pipe must be insulated using special materials from direct contact with the sheathing

When choosing pass-through units, keep in mind that you need to use only those products that are made of metal. Also, a stainless steel plate must be installed on the passage unit. Pipe penetrations must also be made exclusively of stainless steel.

When cutting a pipe, you also need to take into account a number of nuances:

• There should be no joints in places where floors intersect. Take this nuance into account when designing sections.
• To insulate the pipe, use non-flammable materials or factory sandwiches.
• It is forbidden to rigidly fasten the pipe to the ceiling, since the chimney material can expand under the influence of high temperature.

How to properly remove a pipe from a bathhouse through a high ceiling

To properly install the structure, you need to prepare holes for the chimney. It is recommended to cover them with metal sheets. The sheet thickness must be at least 0.5 millimeters. The holes must be square.

It is very important to assemble the protective box correctly. To assemble the adapter you need to use 4 metal sheets measuring 50*50 centimeters. In the middle of one of the sheets you need to cut a hole for the pipe. Metal sheets are connected to each other by welding.

The pipe must not have any damage, special attention should be paid to welds

Subsequent installation is carried out in the following order:

1. Insulate the box with basalt and cover it with metal foil material.
2. Install the first pipe segment. It must be attached to the stove using metal fasteners.
3. Then install the second link.
4. Fill the box with expanded clay.
5. Fix subsequent segments.
6. After you assemble the pipe, install the metal umbrella.

Installing a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling (video)

Running a pipe through the ceiling is not difficult at all. The main thing is to choose the right ones insulating materials and install the box correctly. To assemble the structure, use exclusively non-flammable materials. At the design stage of the structure, take into account all the nuances of the stove and roof. Remember that the chimney must be insulated with a casing. Otherwise, the roofing materials may catch fire.

Pipe outlet in a bathhouse through the ceiling (photo)

homeli.ru

How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling with your own hands?

Many lovers of bathing procedures prefer to heat the bathhouse exclusively with wood, for which a stove is installed in the room. But it is also important to provide a well-equipped chimney so that combustion products can easily leave the room without creating a danger for those steaming. How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling correctly with your own hands, step by step?

A common way to arrange a chimney is to remove it through the ceiling space and roof. This option seems more reliable and durable.

To make such a chimney it is possible to use various types materials, but certain finishing technologies are required.

Types of pipes

Today, several types of chimney pipes are used:

Increasingly, people are beginning to pay attention to more expensive options for finishing chimneys, preferring reliability and safety over cheap ones. Conventional metal chimneys can cause a fire in the room, while a brick pipe or sandwich chimney reliably protects the bathhouse from fire.

Rules for installing a chimney pipe

There are several undeniable rules that should be followed when installing a chimney:

1. Before installing the chimney, it is important to carefully plan its location so that it does not interfere with the main components of the roof. Moreover, the pipe should not turn more than 3 times;
2. the section of pipe located horizontally from the furnace to the insert should not be more than 1 meter;
3. a metal pipe must have a gap of at least 1.5 m to flammable finishing elements;
4. the chimney should be installed so that its cut does not fall on the leeward zone. This will significantly reduce the strength natural traction;
5. In the gas duct, provision should be made for cleaning the pipe, including from condensate.

Read also: How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse

Professionals also advise protecting a single-wall pipe with a layer thermal insulation material. Basalt fiber is most often used for this. From the outside, the insulation layer is covered with a casing made of galvanized steel. This will prevent condensation from forming and protect the attic from fire.

Stages of installing chimneys in the ceiling

Conventionally, the process of installing a chimney pipe in the ceiling space can be divided into several stages.

Stage 1: Design

As mentioned above, for quality installation you need to take a responsible approach to the process of installing a chimney, which means that you first need to draw up a detailed plan for the location of the chimney.

It is important that the chimney is located conveniently for steamers and is not located too close to load-bearing beams and rafters, as well as provide the necessary clearance to flammable finishing materials.

Stage 2: Purchase of a chimney and necessary materials

At the design stage, it is also worth deciding what type of chimney will be installed in your bathhouse. Once the choice is made, you can safely go shopping. Don’t forget to also check with the consultants in the store what Additional materials will be needed to install the chimney.

Stage 3: Marking the ceiling surface for the chimney opening

In order to correctly determine the location of the future chimney, you will need a construction kit, with the help of which we specify the place where the pipe outlet from the stove should be located. We mark the location of the future chimney shown with a plumb line.

Stage 4: Cut a hole for the pipe

Using the markings made earlier, we make a hole in the ceiling surface for the future chimney. It’s not scary if the hole is a couple of centimeters larger than it should be.

On the inside, the gaps will be closed with a special box, and on the attic side it will be possible to insulate the gaps with stone wool or other suitable material.

Stage 5: Marking the roof for the pipe

This is no less important stage work, which involves marking the roof surface for the chimney. The fact is that the roof surface usually has a slope. Accordingly, the greater the roof slope, the larger the area of ​​the hole cut for the chimney should be.

Stage 6: Preparing the hole in the roof

The hole in the roof is cut out in the shape of an oval, and the greater the slope, the larger the area of ​​the oval. To close the hole from the street side, special rubber seals are subsequently used.

When choosing a sealant, it is very important to consider the slope of the roof.

Stage 7: Installation of the chimney

When choosing a metal chimney you must:

• maintain a distance from wooden structures (40 - 50 cm) to avoid fire in the room;
• in the area of ​​the ceiling passage and on attic space the pipe must be wrapped in a sheet of asbestos, which can prevent overheating of materials close to the pipe.

The asbestos sheet is pre-moistened in water to avoid cracks and breaks when wrapping, and is also wrapped with wire on top to prevent the material from slipping.

• in a steam room, the resulting hole is covered with a thin metal sheet or asbestos to reduce the heat exchange between the chimney and the finish. It is possible to pour expanded clay or put basalt insulation on top of the metal sheet;
• A rubber seal is not suitable for closing a hole in the roof, as it will not withstand high temperatures. A sheet of metal should be used, which is laid over the hole, and the resulting cracks should be sealed with rope asbestos, generously soaked in cement mortar;

The easiest to install would be a sandwich chimney, which is easy to install and ensures the fire safety of the building.

Sandwich pipes usually consist of several metal sheets, between which fire-resistant material is laid.

• a unit is installed on the roof of the bathhouse to tightly fix the chimney pipe;
• the pipe is installed in the prepared hole in the roof;
• the space formed between the sandwich pipe and pipes of larger diameter is filled with sand or expanded clay;
• if using a larger pipe is undesirable, you should use a box for sandwich pipes, the cavity of which is also filled with expanded clay;

It is important to maintain the interval from the sandwich pipe to the finishing materials. Under no circumstances should they touch each other so as not to create a fire hazard.

The most reliable and preferable, but also quite expensive, design is a brick chimney. Before installing it, you need to carefully plan everything, not forgetting the fact that installing such a chimney in small baths is impractical.

• a hole is made for the pipe, the diameter of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20 cm;
• then the chimney is brought out through the roof surface and insulated with a metal sheet;
• the structure is sealed by placing the edge of the metal sheet under the roof;
• then to installed pipe a metal umbrella is attached to protect it from moisture;
• The final finishing of the chimney is to apply heat-resistant paint to it, which will protect the metal parts from corrosion.

Having completed the installation outside, we proceed to installation inside the steam room.

First, the box is insulated with basalt and lined with foil insulator, and the first chimney element adjacent to the stove is installed.

Then the second chimney link is installed, and the box is filled with expanded clay. Afterwards, all remaining segments are fixed, and a metal umbrella is installed.

This completes the work on installing the chimney through the ceiling. As you can see, this is not such a complicated step-by-step procedure, which, however, requires certain theoretical knowledge and professional experience.

In any case, with a little determination you can do this work independently, without the help of professionals.

Useful videos on removing the chimney from the bathhouse

bezremont.ru

Installation of a pipe in a bathhouse through the roof

A bathhouse pipe through the roof solves the important problem of removing combustion products from a sauna stove and providing draft in it. When a bathhouse pipe is installed through the ceiling and roof, specific problems arise related to operational safety. The question of how to remove the pipe of a bathhouse stove through the roof is considered important issue, which must be solved taking into account existing standards and recommendations from specialists. The installation and arrangement of the pipe can be done with your own hands, but provided that all requirements are met.

Why do you need to remove the pipe from the bathhouse?

The heart of the Russian bathhouse is considered to be a stove, which is traditionally heated with wood. As a result of combustion solid fuel smoke containing wood combustion products is produced. If these harmful substances are not removed from the steam room, then concentrated carbon monoxide poisoning can occur within 15-25 minutes. Thus, the main objective pipes, i.e. stove chimney - this is getting rid of carbon monoxide. In addition, for efficient combustion of fuel, an influx of oxygen is necessary, and the draft necessary for combustion is provided precisely by the pipe.

In other words, the question of how to remove a pipe in a bathhouse through the roof is related to safety bath procedure and efficiency of furnace use. The main problem in organizing the pipe outlet through the roof of the bathhouse is the temperature of the rising flow. At maximum mode, smoke can heat up above 4500C, which creates a risk of ignition of flammable materials. This circumstance requires the adoption of fire prevention measures. In addition to safety requirements, there are certain requirements for the size of the chimney to create the necessary draft.

Principles of chimney arrangement

The chimney is a pipe connected to the stove firebox and ending at a certain height above the roof. Traction, i.e. The efficiency of the chimney depends on the size of the internal channel, the presence of obstacles in it, the length of the pipe and the cooling conditions of the exhaust smoke. Naturally, the longer it persists heat inside the channel, the faster the heated smoke will rise.

Taking into account the assigned tasks, the following important requirements arise:

• reliable sealing of the entire pipeline;
• absence of obstacles in the channel, which means minimizing the number of bends and joints (especially pipes of different diameters);
• maximum rise of the pipe above the roof surface;
• creation of fireproof passages through the ceiling and roof;
• maintaining safe distances to flammable materials.

Installing a pipe in a bathhouse through the roof, in principle, can be done in 2 ways: installing a vertical pipe with a passage through the ceiling and exiting above the roof, and forming an external chimney, i.e. leading the pipe from the stove through the wall to the outside and installing a vertical chimney already on outside bath wall. In the latter case, there is an important drawback: the presence of a significant bend in the pipe, and most importantly, a sharp cooling of the flow already at the initial movement of the smoke, which significantly reduces the draft. The vertical pipe of a bathhouse through the roof does not have these disadvantages, but poses the problem of arranging a passage through the ceiling and roof.

The most common chimney option is a bath pipe through the roof, i.e. vertical pipe outlet.

To build such a chimney, it is necessary, first of all, to determine optimal place location of the pipe outlet on the roof. Taking into account the increase in the height of the pipe, it is preferable to place the pipe on the ridge of the roof (maximum height of the bathhouse), but such an exit is only possible in the absence of a ridge transverse beam. Most often, the reliability of the roof is increased due to the presence of such roofing element, and it is not recommended to violate its integrity to remove the chimney.

The exit should not be located in the valley area. The largest volume of precipitation accumulates here, which requires enhanced waterproofing. The pipe should not be placed next to a skylight or close to an adjacent structure. It is considered optimal to place the pipe on the roof slope at a distance of approximately 2-3 m, in order not to damage the ridge beam when constructing a passage through the roof.

Design features of the bath pipe

The chimney of a sauna stove can be made of metal or ceramic pipe using brickwork or using a sandwich pipe. The latter option is considered a modern reliable method and is increasingly used. The following elements (areas) are distinguished in the design of chimneys:

• head (pipe on the roof with a probe for extinguishing sparks);
• passage unit in the roof (master flush);
• attic chimney;
• walk-through ceiling unit;
• indoor chimney;
• furnace outlet (iron pipe).

Valves are provided inside the chimney to regulate the flow of smoke.

The dimensions of the chimney must comply with current regulations. The diameter of the chimney channel is related to the power of the sauna stove. This is how the dependency for the pipe is established rectangular section: with a furnace power of up to 3 kW - the pipe size is at least 14x14 cm; up to 5 kW – 14x20 cm, up to 7.5 kW – 14x28 cm. Round pipe normalized as follows: with a power of 1 kW – the pipe cross-section is selected to be more than 80 mm2; at 15 kW – 160 mm2 (about 14 cm in diameter). When installing a chimney, one condition should be taken into account: the length of horizontal or inclined sections should not exceed 100 cm.

There are also standards for the height of the head, and it depends on the location of the outlet relative to the ridge. When the outlet is located at a distance of 1.4-1.6 m from the ridge, the sufficient height of the head is 50 cm above the ridge; at a distance of 1.6-3.2 m - 10 cm or at the level of the ridge; when removed further than 3.2 m - 10 cm below the ridge or level with it. If the roof has a flat appearance, then the height of the head is chosen to be at least 100 cm, and if a tube is installed above 1.4 m, then it is secured with guy wires.

Features of passage units

When leading a pipe through the roof, the following problems must be solved:

1. Formation of a reliable thermal barrier that protects the roofing material from overheating permissible temperature.
2. Reliable hydraulic protection of the pipe from precipitation and water flowing down the roof slope.
3. Restoration of multi-layer sauna protection to prevent heat loss and steam escape from the steam room.

In accordance with current standards, the distance from the chimney pipe to the combustible roofing material, even taking into account the creation of a thermal barrier, must be at least 14-26 cm (depending on the materials used). Thus, in a multilayer bath protection, a sufficiently large window is created where the protective layers are removed. To restore protection, the passage area is first separated from the common roof. To do this, additional rafter supports are installed around the pipe, which are connected by jumpers. An insulated box is created, which is filled with basalt mineral wool and covered with hydro- and vapor barrier roll material. The edges of the protective films are formed in the shape of an envelope and placed on the surface of the pipe, where they are secured with staples or nails. All joint areas are reliably sealed with heat-resistant adhesives. It is best to drain the flow of water and condensate using special drainage gutters that are installed directly around the pipe.

When arranging a pass-through unit on a round sandwich pipe, it is recommended to use ready-made master flush units.

They are made from elastic waterproofing material and reliably protect the passage through the roof from moisture. The design includes a flange and an apron made of silicone polymer or rubber. The flange also has a certain elasticity, but is strengthened by metallization. Such a ready-made sealing unit is put on the pipe and covers it tightly. The edges of the apron are folded under roof covering.

When installing a pass-through unit, it is important to reliably seal all joints. For this purpose, special adhesive compositions with increased heat resistance. Most often, special silicone-based sealants are recommended, which remain operational at temperatures up to 350-4000C.

The sauna chimney plays important role and is a mandatory element when using solid fuel. When installing a chimney and passing it through the roof, all fire safety standards must be observed, and all sauna protective layers must be restored.

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