Homemade feather drills for wood. Wood drill – identify, select and sharpen! How to lengthen a feather drill

". Today I want to talk about how easy it is to make feather drills for wood.

The other day I needed to drill holes in chipboard. large diameter, namely 40 and 20 mm. And then it turned out that I didn’t have the necessary drills!!!

No... Of course I have many different feather drills. Both regular ones and some fake ones. But, the trouble is that I was now working at home in the basement, and my drills are on the other side of the city, namely, at a construction site, where I use them last time enjoyed...

And so I decided to quickly make the necessary drills from what was at hand...

And, in fact, for this I needed the following:

1. piece of stainless steel sheet, 2 mm thick. (Not necessarily “stainless steel”... I just had it lying around..)
2. Metal pin with a diameter of 10 mm. (It can also be thinner... I just had this one))))
3. Bolt (screw) M6 (or thinner).

(Before I start the story, I want to apologize for the poor quality of the photo. The fact is that I had no time to photograph the process step by step, so I just turned on the video recording on my smartphone, and then took screenshots from it...)

So, where did I start... I found a piece sheet metal, 2 mm thick. I came across this piece of “stainless steel”

I started with a drill with a diameter of 40mm. To begin with, I drew a drill blank on a piece of stainless steel:

Using a grinder with a cutting wheel, I cut out the workpiece:

After that I made the drill rod itself. I decided to make it from a ten-millimeter rod that was lying around in my “scrap metal”:

I didn’t have a thinner rod at hand... But I thought that this one would do. After all, a rod of this diameter will fit into any chuck of a household drill. Of course, its thickness regulates the minimum diameter of the drill, but I always have drills up to twelve millimeters in stock... (These are drills for metal, but they can also be easily used for wood). And feathers are only needed large diameters..

I cut a piece of the required length from the rod:

Clamping it in a vice, I cut a diametrical slot with a cutting wheel. I estimated the depth of the cut by eye, simply by placing the workpiece and marking such a depth “so that it would be normal”...))))

After that, I checked whether my “feather” was inserted into the slot of the rod:

Aligned exactly in the center, I made marks on the plane with a marker corresponding to the thickness of the rod:

Then I made slits along these lines:

Changing the cutting wheel to a stripping wheel, I selected the metal between the slots.

Now you need to secure the feather to the rod. It’s easier, of course, to just “drip” it by welding. But, in order not to make a second rod (after all, in addition to the forty-millimeter rod, I also needed a twenty-millimeter one), I decided to secure it with a screw. To do this, I drilled a hole in the rod, perpendicular to the slot. I used a drill with a diameter of 5 mm.

Then I drilled out the upper half of the rod (up to the slot) with a drill with a diameter of six millimeters:

And in the lower half I cut an M6 thread:

After that, I inserted the feather into the rod, aligned it, and, having marked the center with a drill, took it out and drilled a hole with a diameter of 6 mm.

Now you can insert the pen into the shaft and secure it with a screw:

I used an M6 bolt as a screw. It was easier for me to cut the threads. But if you don’t have taps on hand, you can use it as a bolt - screw the nut on the other side. It won't hurt, it just won't be as convenient to attach - you'll need two keys...

Now let's sharpen our drill. I used a homemade sandpaper with a diamond cup... Just because I had it on hand:

But you can sharpen it with anything, even with a grinder... There is no need to maintain any specific angle here. You just shouldn't make it too spicy:

All! The drill is ready. It can easily drill through both wood and chipboard:

Because The rod was already ready; making a second feather, 20 millimeters wide, was not difficult:

Of course, such drills are not suitable for permanent, professional work... For this you need purchased drills made of good steel... But I am not a professional!!! I'm a DIYer! And the last time before this incident I used a feather drill of this diameter was about ten years ago!!! And now it’s needed again!!)))).

It took me about twenty minutes to make. (During this time I would not have even gone to the store to pick it up))). And the production of subsequent diameters is half as much...

And I did the job for them - drilled the hole I needed. After that, I'll put it on the shelf, and the next time I need it.... maybe in a year... Or maybe in five!!! ... (Or maybe you won’t need it at all!)))) But you won’t need to buy or make it anymore...)))

By the way, at a construction site, when I needed to fasten beams and rafters, I also used just such a drill. At that time, I lent my long wood drill to a friend, and, as usually happens, he did not return it to me on time... And, in order not to waste days, I lost minutes - I made the same drill, only half a meter long, and got the job done...

These drills are very suitable for such purposes!!!

Long metal drills are used to drill through and blind holes in spindles, shafts and long parts. They are characterized by low productivity. The ground long metal drill has high fracture resistance and is used when working with alloyed and unalloyed carbon steel, Petrometal non-ferrous metals, gray and ductile cast iron, cermets, bronze and brass. Manufactured in accordance with GOST 886-77, GOST 886-77, GOST 2092-77 and GOST 22094-76. GOSTs provide information on the main dimensions of devices. They have a diameter from 1 to 20 mm, total length from 56 to 254 mm. In them, unlike other cutting tools, the total and working distance is increased, and the angle at the apex of the cutting edges is increased. In all standard designs it is equal to 118 degrees, and in long devices - 135. This feature allows you to work with materials that are much heavier, as the load on the tool is reduced. This leads to an increase in the service life of the device, as well as an increase in the intervals between sharpenings.

How to choose an extended drill bit for metal?

When choosing an extended cutting device, first of all, pay attention to the following details:

• Extended twist drills;
• With cylindrical shank.

Main Dimensions

Name	Diameter, mm	Length, mm
	1,5	70
Extended metal drill DIN 340	2	85
Extended metal drill DIN 340	2	85
Extended metal drill DIN 340	2,9	95
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3	100
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3	100
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,2	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,2	106
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,3	106
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,5	106
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,5	112
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,8	112
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,1	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,2	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,5	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,5	126
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5	126
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5	132
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5	132
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5,5	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5,5	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6,5	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	7	148
Extended metal drill DIN 340	7	156
Extended metal drill DIN 340	7,5	156
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8	156
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8	165
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8	165
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8,5	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	9	165
Extended metal drill DIN 340	9	175
Extended metal drill DIN 340	10	175
Extended metal drill DIN 340	10	184
Extended metal drill DIN 340	10	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	11	195
Extended metal drill DIN 340	12	205
Extended metal drill DIN 340	12	300

Manufacturers

The long twist drill is produced in three countries:

1. Russia;
2. Germany;
3. China

The most best devices manufactured in Germany by Heller, they have the greatest strength and service life.

How to choose a drill for metal: Video

1. Angle of sharpening of the cutting part. For this device it should be 135 degrees.
2. Labeling. It will make it clear what material the device is made of and how it can be used.
3. Color. Choose deep gold cutting tools as they have the strongest durability and the least friction.
4. Material of manufacture. It affects the device’s ability to drill certain structures.

We also recommend that you pay attention to the model of your machine, its condition, power, the method of obtaining the workpiece (this can be casting, stamping, cutting), and the accuracy of the resulting hole. Be sure to find out what tolerance and roughness the extra-long drill has. Also consider the depth of the hole being machined.

Types and technical characteristics

The following cutting tools can have an elongated design:

• Extended twist drills;
• Drills extended, conical shank, spiral;
• With cylindrical shank.

Long series drills with a conical shank have a special part of the tool that is clamped in the chuck of a drill or machine.

The length of the device is selected depending on the diameter of the hole; the size of an elongated metal drill is not much larger than standard sizes.

There are also extra long drills for metal, they are used for drilling deep holes in steels that have a hardness of 1300 N/mm 2.

Main Dimensions

In the table below you can familiarize yourself with the main parameters of cutting tools with large size, namely with their diameter and length. For example, a 5 5 long drill has a length of 139 mm.

photo: dimensions of extended metal drills

Name	Diameter, mm	Length, mm
Extended metal drill DIN 340	1,5	70
Extended metal drill DIN 340	2	85
Extended metal drill DIN 340	2	85
Extended metal drill DIN 340	2,9	95
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3	100
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3	100
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,2	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,2	106
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,3	106
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,5	106
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,5	112
Extended metal drill DIN 340	3,8	112
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,1	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,2	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,5	119
Extended metal drill DIN 340	4,5	126
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5	126
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5	132
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5	132
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5,5	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	5,5	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6	139
Extended metal drill DIN 340	6,5	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	7	148
Extended metal drill DIN 340	7	156
Extended metal drill DIN 340	7,5	156
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8	156
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8	165
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8	165
Extended metal drill DIN 340	8,5	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	9	165
Extended metal drill DIN 340	9	175
Extended metal drill DIN 340	10	175
Extended metal drill DIN 340	10	184
Extended metal drill DIN 340	10	300
Extended metal drill DIN 340	11	195
Extended metal drill DIN 340	12	205
Extended metal drill DIN 340	12	300

The work of drilling holes in metal, depending on the type of holes and the properties of the metal, can be performed different instruments and using various techniques. We want to tell you about drilling methods, tools, as well as safety precautions when performing this work.

Drilling holes in metal may be necessary when repairing engineering systems, household appliances, car, creating structures from sheet and profile steel, designing crafts from aluminum and copper, in the manufacture of circuit boards for radio equipment and in many other cases. It is important to understand what tool is needed for each type of work so that the holes are made required diameter and in a strictly designated place, and what safety measures will help avoid injuries.

Tools, fixtures, drills

The main tools for drilling are hand and electric drills, and also, if possible, drilling machines. The working part of these mechanisms - the drill - can have different shapes.

Drills are distinguished:

• spiral (most common);
• screw;
• crowns;
• conical;
• feathers, etc.

Drill production various designs standardized by numerous GOSTs. Drills up to Ø 2 mm are not marked, up to Ø 3 mm - the section and steel grade are indicated on the shank; larger diameters may contain Additional information. To obtain a hole of a certain diameter, you need to take a drill a few tenths of a millimeter smaller. The better the drill is sharpened, the smaller the difference between these diameters.

Drills differ not only in diameter, but also in length - short, elongated and long are produced. The maximum hardness of the metal being processed is also important information. The drill shank can be cylindrical or conical, which should be kept in mind when selecting a drill chuck or adapter sleeve.

1. Drill with a cylindrical shank. 2. Drill with tapered shank. 3. Drill with a sword for carving. 4. Center drill. 5. Drill with two diameters. 6. Center drill. 7. Conical drill. 8. Conical multi-stage drill

Some jobs and materials require special sharpening. The harder the metal being processed, the sharper the edge should be sharpened. For thin sheet metal, a regular twist drill may not be suitable; you will need a tool with a special sharpening. Detailed recommendations for various types drills and processed metals (thickness, hardness, type of hole) are quite extensive, and we will not consider them in this article.

Various types of drill sharpening. 1. For hard steel. 2. For of stainless steel. 3. For copper and copper alloys. 4. For aluminum and aluminum alloys. 5. For cast iron. 6. Bakelite

1. Standard sharpening. 2. Free sharpening. 3. Diluted sharpening. 4. Heavy sharpening. 5. Separate sharpening

To secure parts before drilling, vices, stops, jigs, angles, clamps with bolts and other devices are used. This is not only a safety requirement, it is actually more convenient, and the holes are of better quality.

To chamfer and process the surface of the channel, a cylindrical or conical countersink is used, and to mark the point for drilling and so that the drill does not “jump off,” a hammer and a center punch are used.

Advice! The best drills are still considered to be those produced in the USSR - exact adherence to GOST in geometry and metal composition. German Ruko with titanium coating are also good, as well as drills from Bosch - proven quality. Good feedback about Haisser products - powerful, usually with a large diameter. The Zubr drills, especially the Cobalt series, performed well.

Drilling modes

It is very important to correctly secure and guide the drill, as well as select the cutting mode.

When making holes in metal by drilling important factors are the number of revolutions of the drill and the feed force applied to the drill, directed along its axis, ensuring the depth of the drill with one revolution (mm/rev). When working with different metals and drills, different cutting modes are recommended, and the harder the metal being processed and the larger the diameter of the drill, the lower the recommended cutting speed. An indicator of the correct mode is beautiful, long chips.

Use the tables to choose the right mode and avoid dulling the drill prematurely.

Feed S 0 , mm/rev	Drill diameter D, mm
	2,5	4	6	8	10	12	146	20	25	32
	Cutting speed v, m/min
When drilling steel
0,06	17	22	26	30	33	42	—	—	—	—
0,10	—	17	20	23	26	28	32	38	40	44
0,15	—	—	18	20	22	24	27	30	33	35
0,20	—	—	15	17	18	20	23	25	27	30
0,30	—	—	—	14	16	17	19	21	23	25
0,40	—	—	—	—	—	14	16	18	19	21
0,60	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	14	15	11
When drilling cast iron
0,06	18	22	25	27	29	30	32	33	34	35
0,10	—	18	20	22	23	24	26	27	28	30
0,15	—	15	17	18	19	20	22	23	25	26
0,20	—	—	15	16	17	18	19	20	21	22
0,30	—	—	13	14	15	16	17	18	19	19
0,40	—	—	—	—	14	14	15	16	16	17
0,60	—	—	—	—	—	—	13	14	15	15
0,80	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	13
When drilling aluminum alloys
0,06	75	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—
0,10	53	70	81	92	100	—	—	—	—	—
0,15	39	53	62	69	75	81	90	—	—	—
0,20	—	43	50	56	62	67	74	82	-	-
0,30	—	—	42	48	52	56	62	68	75	—
0,40	—	—	—	40	45	48	53	59	64	69
0,60	—	—	—	—	37	39	44	48	52	56
0,80	—	—	—	—	—	—	38	42	46	54
1,00	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	—	42

Table 2. Correction factors

Table 3. Revolutions and feed for different drill diameters and drilling carbon steel

Types of holes in metal and methods of drilling them

Types of holes:

• deaf;
• end-to-end;
• half (incomplete);
• deep;
• large diameter;
• for internal thread.

Threaded holes require diameters to be determined with the tolerances established in GOST 16093-2004. For common hardware, the calculation is given in Table 5.

Table 5. The ratio of metric and inch threads, as well as the selection of hole size for drilling

Metric thread				Inch thread				Pipe thread
Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	Threaded hole diameter		Thread diameter	Thread pitch, mm	Threaded hole diameter		Thread diameter	Threaded hole diameter
		min.	Max.			min.	Max.
M1	0,25	0,75	0,8	3/16	1,058	3,6	3,7	1/8	8,8
M1.4	0,3	1,1	1,15	1/4	1,270	5,0	5,1	1/4	11,7
M1.7	0,35	1,3	1,4	5/16	1,411	6,4	6,5	3/8	15,2
M2	0,4	1,5	1,6	3/8	1,588	7,7	7,9	1/2	18,6
M2.6	0,4	2,1	2,2	7/16	1,814	9,1	9,25	3/4	24,3
M3	0,5	2,4	2,5	1/2	2,117	10,25	10,5	1	30,5
M3.5	0,6	2,8	2,9	9/16	2,117	11,75	12,0	—	—
M4	0,7	3,2	3,4	5/8	2,309	13,25	13,5	11/4	39,2
M5	0,8	4,1	4,2	3/4	2,540	16,25	16,5	13/8	41,6
M6	1,0	4,8	5,0	7/8	2,822	19,00	19,25	11/2	45,1
M8	1,25	6,5	6,7	1	3,175	21,75	22,0	—	—
M10	1,5	8,2	8,4	11/8	3,629	24,5	24,75	—	—
M12	1,75	9,9	10,0	11/4	3,629	27,5	27,75	—	—
M14	2,0	11,5	11,75	13/8	4,233	30,5	30,5	—	—
M16	2,0	13,5	13,75	—	—	—	—	—	—
M18	2,5	15,0	15,25	11/2	4,333	33,0	33,5	—	—
M20	2,5	17,0	17,25	15/8	6,080	35,0	35,5	—	—
M22	2,6	19,0	19,25	13/4	5,080	33,5	39,0	—	—
M24	3,0	20,5	20,75	17/8	5,644	41,0	41,5	—	—

Through holes

Through holes penetrate the workpiece completely, forming a passage through it. A special feature of the process is to protect the surface of the workbench or tabletop from the drill going beyond the workpiece, which can damage the drill itself, as well as provide the workpiece with a “burr” - a burr. To avoid this, use the following methods:

• use a workbench with a hole;
• put a wooden gasket or a “sandwich” under the part - wood + metal + wood;
• put under the part metal bar with a hole for free passage of the drill;
• reduce the feed rate at the last stage.

The latter method is required when drilling holes “in situ” so as not to damage nearby surfaces or parts.

Holes in thin sheet metal are cut with feather drills, since a twist drill will damage the edges of the workpiece.

Blind holes

Such holes are made to a certain depth and do not penetrate through the workpiece. There are two ways to measure depth:

• limiting the length of the drill with a sleeve stop;
• limiting the length of the drill with a chuck with an adjustable stop;
• using a ruler attached to the machine;
• a combination of methods.

Some machines are equipped with an automatic feeding system to a given depth, after which the mechanism stops. During the drilling process, you may need to stop work several times to remove chips.

Holes of complex shape

Holes located on the edge of the workpiece (half holes) can be made by connecting the edges and clamping two workpieces or a workpiece and a spacer with a vice and drilling a full hole. The spacer must be made of the same material as the workpiece being processed, otherwise the drill will “go” in the direction of least resistance.

A through hole in a corner (profiled metal) is made by fixing the workpiece in a vice and using a wooden spacer.

It is more difficult to drill a cylindrical workpiece tangentially. The process is divided into two operations: preparation perpendicular to the hole platforms (milling, countersinking) and actual drilling. Drilling holes in surfaces located at an angle also begins with preparing the site, after which a wooden spacer is inserted between the planes, forming a triangle, and a hole is drilled through the corner.

Hollow parts are drilled, filling the cavity with wood plug.

Shouldered holes are produced using two techniques:

1. Reaming. The hole is drilled to the full depth with a drill of the smallest diameter, after which it is drilled to a given depth with drills of diameters from smaller to larger. The advantage of the method is a well-centered hole.
2. Reducing the diameter. A hole of maximum diameter is drilled to a given depth, then the drills are changed with a successive decrease in diameter and deepening of the hole. With this method it is easier to control the depth of each step.

1. Drilling a hole. 2. Diameter reduction

Large diameter holes, ring drilling

Producing large-diameter holes in massive workpieces up to 5-6 mm thick is labor-intensive and costly. Relatively small diameters - up to 30 mm (maximum 40 mm) can be obtained using conical, or better yet, stepped conical drills. For larger diameter holes (up to 100 mm), you will need hollow bimetallic bits or bits with carbide teeth with a center drill. Moreover, craftsmen traditionally recommend Bosch in this case, especially on hard metal, such as steel.

Such annular drilling is less energy-intensive, but can be more costly financially. In addition to drills, the power of the drill and the ability to work at the lowest speeds are important. Moreover, the thicker the metal, the more you will want to make a hole on the machine, and when large quantities holes in a sheet more than 12 mm thick, it is better to immediately look for such an opportunity.

In a thin-sheet workpiece, a large-diameter hole is obtained using narrow-toothed crowns or a milling cutter mounted on a grinder, but the edges in the latter case leave much to be desired.

Deep holes, coolant

Sometimes it is necessary to make a deep hole. In theory, this is a hole whose length is five times its diameter. In practice, deep drilling is called drilling that requires forced periodic removal of chips and the use of coolants (cutting fluids).

In drilling, coolant is needed primarily to reduce the temperature of the drill and workpiece, which heat up from friction. Therefore, when making holes in copper, which has high thermal conductivity and is itself capable of removing heat, coolant may not be used. Cast iron can be drilled relatively easily and without lubrication (except high-strength).

In production, industrial oils, synthetic emulsions, emulsols and some hydrocarbons are used as coolants. In home workshops you can use:

• technical petroleum jelly, castor oil - for soft steels;
• laundry soap— for aluminum alloys type D16T;
• a mixture of kerosene and castor oil - for duralumin;
• soapy water - for aluminum;
• turpentine diluted with alcohol - for silumin.

Universal refrigerated liquid can be prepared independently. To do this, you need to dissolve 200 g of soap in a bucket of water, add 5 spoons machine oil, you can use the waste one and boil the solution until a soapy, homogeneous emulsion is obtained. Some craftsmen use lard to reduce friction.

Processed material	Cutting fluid
Steel:
carbon	Emulsion. Sulfurized oil
structural	Sulfurized oil with kerosene
instrumental	Mixed oils
alloyed	Mixed oils
Malleable cast iron	3-5% emulsion
Iron casting	No cooling. 3-5% emulsion. Kerosene
Bronze	No cooling. Mixed oils
Zinc	Emulsion
Brass	No cooling. 3-5% emulsion
Copper	Emulsion. Mixed oils
Nickel	Emulsion
Aluminum and its alloys	No cooling. Emulsion. Blended oils. Kerosene
Stainless, heat-resistant alloys	A mixture of 50% sulfur oil, 30% kerosene, 20% oleic acid (or 80% sulforesol and 20% oleic acid)
Fiberglass, vinyl plastic, plexiglass and so on	3-5% emulsion
Textolite, getinaks	Blowing with compressed air

Deep holes can be made solid and ring drilling, and in the latter case, the central rod formed by the rotation of the crown is broken out not entirely, but in parts, weakening it with additional small-diameter holes.

Solid drilling is performed in a well-fixed workpiece with a twist drill, into the channels of which coolant is supplied. Periodically, without stopping the rotation of the drill, you need to remove it and clear the cavity of chips. Working with a twist drill is carried out in stages: first, take a short hole and drill a hole, which is then deepened with a drill of the appropriate size. For significant hole depths, it is advisable to use guide bushings.

If you regularly drill deep holes, we can recommend purchasing a special machine with automatic feeding Coolant to the drill and precise alignment.

Drilling according to markings, templates and jigs

You can drill holes according to the markings made or without it - using a template or jig.

The marking is done with a center punch. With a hammer blow, a place is marked for the tip of the drill. You can also mark the place with a felt-tip pen, but the hole is also needed so that the point does not move from the intended point. The work is carried out in two stages: preliminary drilling, hole control, final drilling. If the drill has “moved away” from the intended center, notches (grooves) are made with a narrow chisel, directing the tip to the specified location.

To determine the center of a cylindrical workpiece, use a square piece of sheet metal, bent at 90° so that the height of one arm is approximately one radius. Applying a corner with different sides blank, draw a pencil along the edge. As a result, you have an area around the center. You can find the center using the theorem - by the intersection of perpendiculars from two chords.

A template is needed when making a series of similar parts with several holes. It is convenient to use for a pack of thin-sheet workpieces connected with a clamp. This way you can get several drilled workpieces at the same time. Instead of a template, a drawing or diagram is sometimes used, for example, in the manufacture of parts for radio equipment.

The jig is used when precision in maintaining the distances between holes and strict perpendicularity of the channel is very important. When drilling deep holes or when working with thin-walled tubes, in addition to the jig, guides can be used to fix the position of the drill relative to the metal surface.

When working with power tools, it is important to remember human safety and prevent premature wear of the tool and possible defects. In this regard, we have collected some useful tips:

1. Before work, you need to check the fastenings of all elements.
2. When working on a machine or with an electric drill, clothing should not contain elements that could be affected by rotating parts. Protect your eyes from chips with glasses.
3. When approaching the metal surface, the drill must already be rotating, otherwise it will quickly become dull.
4. You need to remove the drill from the hole without turning off the drill, reducing the speed if possible.
5. If the drill does not penetrate deep into the metal, it means that its hardness is lower than that of the workpiece. Increased hardness of steel can be detected by running a file over the sample - the absence of traces indicates increased hardness. In this case, the drill must be selected from carbide with additives and operated at low speeds with low feed.
6. If a small-diameter drill does not fit well in the chuck, wrap a few turns of brass wire around its shank, increasing the grip diameter.
7. If the surface of the workpiece is polished, put a felt washer on the drill to ensure that it does not cause scratches even when it comes into contact with the drill chuck. When fastening workpieces made of polished or chrome-plated steel, use fabric or leather spacers.
8. When making deep holes, a rectangular piece of foam placed on a drill can serve as a meter and at the same time, while rotating, blow away small chips.

Drilling wood is one of the most common tasks in repair and construction, but it’s not always possible to purchase a high-quality wood drill. Therefore, it is very important to know how to choose a good tool and be able to sharpen a dull product!

Modern drills are often sold with a set of different drills, however, basically, they are always the same type of product, just of different lengths and diameters. So you have to independently select the types of wood drills that suit all your tasks. Of course, such a set should include a twist drill for wood; products are presented in a wide range - from 3 to 52 mm in diameter! Good tool this kind should have a point, thanks to which it will not slip off the surface.

Products with a diameter of 10 mm or more must have a hexagonal shank so as not to rotate during operation. It is also important to know what number of revolutions during drilling should correspond to a particular tool diameter. For example, if you are dealing with small products up to 14 mm, you should set no more than 1700-1800 rpm for soft rocks wood and half as much when drilling hardwood. When working with tools with a diameter of 16 to 25 mm, on hard rocks you should stick to 500 revolutions; the speed can be increased three times when drilling soft rocks.

The larger the diameter, the lower the speed - by observing this ratio, you will extend the service life of the product for a long time! When choosing tools, pay attention to the color of the metal - if it is a regular gray color, then such a product has not been subjected to any additional processing, and accordingly it will not last long. Black color indicates very hot steam treatment, and yellow inherent in products that are treated with titanium nitride, which increases their service life significantly.

Long wood drills are very dependent on their diameter. You will not find thin and at the same time long products - the thinner the tool, the shorter, otherwise it may break even with light pressure. So, a ten-millimeter drill can be up to 45 cm long, while a twelve-millimeter drill can be up to 60! Of course, it is absolutely not necessary to buy such long ones, unless you are dealing with drilling holes in thick beams.

Of course, you must maintain a healthy relationship between the capabilities of the drill itself and the dimensions of the drill, because a product with a length of 45 cm and a diameter of 52 mm will weigh almost 3 kilograms! An ordinary household drill will barely turn it even when idle! Experienced builders When working with such “giants”, even low-speed drill-mixers are used!

However, there is a compromise between the ability to drill large diameter holes and the weight of the drill! Products of this type are called feather ones, since drilling occurs due to a “feather” of the required diameter at the end of a long rod. On the market you will find tools from 10 to 55 mm. True, this compromise option also has significant disadvantages compared to the same spiral ones - they do not have a chip outlet, which greatly complicates the process of working with deep holes. Most often, these are used for drilling not very thick boards, as well as fiberboard and chipboard, so they are produced up to 15-20 cm in length. True, there are also extensions with which you can make holes up to 40 cm deep!

Typically, these tools have a hex shank to ensure a firmer fit in the chuck. This option is perfect for holes under door locks. But you can work with them even with not very powerful tools, and they are much cheaper in price than spiral ones - sometimes the difference is 5-10 times! Recommended rotation speed when drilling for hard wood with tools up to 25 mm is 1500 rpm, if drills of a larger diameter are reduced to 1000. Soft wood can be drilled at 1500-2000 rpm.

Forstner drills are especially popular among furniture makers because they can be used to drill a blind hole with a flat, even and smooth bottom. That is why such drills are often called plug drills, although in fact this definition does not quite suit them, because there are special products of a different design just for drilling plugs.

The diameter of the products is presented in the range from 10 to 50 mm. Quite often the cutting edges are made of hard alloys, which significantly increases the service life of the product. As a rule, such drills are up to 10 cm in length, although with the help of extensions this parameter can be tripled. In operation, recommended speeds for soft wood range from 2500 rpm to 1000 rpm for large diameters, while hard wood is recommended to be drilled at fairly low speeds. For example, for tools with a diameter of 15 mm, it is recommended to set no more than 500 rpm.

The external resemblance to a crown gave rise to another name for such products - crowns. Their most important advantage is the ability to make holes of large diameters, which cannot be made even by the largest spiral or feather drills. The crowns look like a ring with teeth and are usually sold in sets, like attachments on one base, inside of which there is a centering drill. Of course, you can’t make very deep holes like this - ordinary models are capable of cutting through material up to 22 mm, professional ones - up to 64 mm. In addition, such tools are effective when working with plastic and drywall.

It wouldn't hurt to note one more thing unusual look– thermite drills, or, as they are called in professional language, milling drills. Thanks to the characteristic appearance Such products cannot be confused with anything else - they have a monolithic tip, like a conventional twist drill, and a core with many cutting edges. With the help of such tools, not only drilling is performed, but also milling - first we drill, and then we go into the right side. You can work with milling products on both wood and plastic. Their diameter does not exceed 12 mm.

Drilling blind as well as through holes in long parts necessitates the need for long metal drills. Sometimes it is not possible to purchase cutting tool the required length, which entails the need to lengthen the existing one. How to lengthen a metal drill and is it effective?

Methods for lengthening a tool, their features

Most ways to increase the length of a product involve attaching an extension to its shank. A specific method should be selected based on the diameter of the tool, the availability auxiliary equipment, as well as its desired final length.

The most common methods:

When extending the tool, remember that the part used as an extension should be selected with a slightly smaller diameter than the drill. In addition, when working with a converted product, you should adjust the cutting conditions when drilling.

Drills and accessories for Metaltool drilling machines

The Metaltool group of companies sells high-quality equipment and metal cutting tools the best domestic and global manufacturers, providing delivery throughout Russia and the CIS countries.

Own brand core drills are reliable and productive, they can be used with turning, milling and drilling equipment. Qualified consultants will help you select products and place an order, comment on the characteristics and advantages of the products offered. A long warranty will ensure that equipment and tools are replaced or repaired as quickly as possible, and regular promotions will be a pleasant bonus when purchasing.