Make your own hand drill. How to make a homemade, hand drill for a well with your own hands

When building a house and arranging a site, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but larger diameter and depths required when installing pile foundation. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. They are available in stores sufficient quantity, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.

There are three main designs of earth drills:

Garden. Usually these are two semicircular blades welded at an angle to one another. A hand drill of this design is used to organize holes for planting plants, which is why it is called “garden”. But the same tool is used to make holes when installing posts for fences, gazebos and other light buildings.

An example of a homemade earthen garden auger

The auger drill is distinguished by spirally wound several turns of the spiral

Folding blade - features of the TISE pile drill

Garden gardeners that are easier to make earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Garden auger- the simplest, but efficient design. It consists of:

Cutting part. It usually consists of two steel semicircles with sharpened edges. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the diameter of the holes that need to be drilled. For convenience, the blades can be made removable - bolted.

The post drill can be equipped with a prefabricated rod

This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square section. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm;
saw blade for grinder suitable diameter.

Earth drill with blades made from a saw blade for an angle grinder

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. Can be further sharpened side faces so that the soil can be cut easier.

The peak drill is made from different materials- there are a lot of her designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of rod large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made from round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters

You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required when monolithic version- with welded blades.

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

Manual drill with one turn

The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

Strengthening a hand drill for drilling wells in dense soils

The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost ideal option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.

The disc is sawn in half

This homemade drill for excavation works shows quite high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers

If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.

A homemade drill with an earth receiver is suitable for installing poles and piles

And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it’s much easier to work than store-bought ones.

Due to the large number of turns, an auger auger creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when making a drill for deep wells - for water, for constructing underground probes for heat pump and so on.

This is what an auger drill looks like

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.

A sector is marked in the rings and cut out

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to a folding structure with bolted joints.

More complex design

The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.

There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, conventional design doesn't work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

Drill for soft soils

This drawing shows interesting design handles - it can be rearranged as the length of the bar increases.

Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Auger and garden auger for soil of different densities

Detailed projection drawing of an auger drill

Garden auger drawing

Owners summer cottages or private houses know firsthand that there is always a need to build, plant or dig something. In many of these cases you need excavation. They require a lot of time and labor costs, but they can be simplified and speeded up if you use a hand-held excavation auger instead of a shovel.

Work with a garden auger

There are many models of this popular tool available in specialized stores and markets, but choosing a truly high-quality hand-held earth drill is not so easy. The main problem of many factory models of hand-held earth drills is the use of too “soft” metal for their manufacture in order to reduce the cost of production. The solution may be to make it yourself.

Using a hand drill for earth, you can perform a wide range of applied work in the household or at the dacha: construction, planting trees and shrubs, landscaping, landscape works and many others.

It makes it easy to do wells of regular cylindrical shape. It is not difficult to maintain the same depth, which is extremely difficult to achieve when using a shovel.

Tool design

It consists of a steel rod with a pilot drill on one side, a knife and a handle. A small auger can complement the knife or even completely perform its functions. It should be noted that the auger allows you to remove a larger volume of soil from the hole at a time, but requires a little more physical effort during operation. A steel rod extension can be provided for drilling deep holes.

Materials for production

To make your own hand-held garden auger, you don’t need a lot of materials and a large list of tools. Will need:

Of course, making a drill takes a lot of effort and energy, but at the same time it allows you to save family budget and be completely confident in the quality of the device.

Sequence of work

In addition, by producing it you can gain skills that will be useful in the future for more complex tasks. So, the materials and tools are prepared, it’s time to start making. The procedure is as follows:

Using a hand-held garden auger, it is necessary to periodically remove it from the hole and clean it of adhering soil and dirt. This will speed up and facilitate drilling work.

If the knives are not welded, but are bolted to the rod (most often this is done to facilitate their subsequent sharpening), then after constant exposure to wet soil and abrasive particles it is very difficult to unscrew them. Sometimes it’s completely impossible.

To prevent this, You can put a rubber hose on the threaded part or heat shrink casing. To always know the depth of the hole, you can put a scale on the drill rod. For this purpose, horizontal marks are made every 10 cm using a file or paint. additional convenience they should be marked with numbers or paint different color. You can put tips from a garden hose on the handles or wrap the edges with electrical tape - it will become much more convenient to work.

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

Residents of the private sector are very familiar with situations when something needs to be built or installed, but the base of such a structure will be in the ground. In this regard, many are wondering how to make a drill for drilling holes for pillars (piles) with their own hands, using materials that may be available in household. In addition, without excessive modesty, it can be argued that in some cases, self-made instruments exceed the quality of factory products. The thing is that a standard is produced at the factory, and at home you can adapt such a device to specific needs, taking into account the condition of the soil.

Homemade hand garden auger

Dependence of design on purpose

For household needs, you can make a hand drill with your own hands for various purposes, although in any case, such a tool is intended for drilling holes. But at the same time they are distinguished by appearance And operational characteristics, This:

ordinary garden auger;
auger garden auger;
drill for TISE piles (Technology of Individual Construction and Ecology).

To assemble such a tool you will definitely need welding machine, operating on alternating or direct current.

Common garden auger

Earth garden auger

To make an ordinary garden auger, which is most often used for not very deep holes, you need a powerful rod, made of solid (scrap) or hollow pipe profile. In addition, you will need semicircular cutting discs welded at a certain angle of attack (it is best if it is alloy steel). Using this tool, holes are made for planting plants (usually seedlings of shrubs or trees), as well as holes for installing fence posts or other light architectural structures.

Homemade auger hand drill

The word “auger” from German (“Schnecke”) is translated as “snail” and this perfectly characterizes the configuration of the cutting device. The blades are arranged like a right-hand thread with a large pitch, which allows you to pull the drill out of the ground much less frequently, since the soil rises to full height blades without interfering with drilling. The functionality of such a tool is practically no different from the device described above, but labor productivity in this case almost doubles. If, for example, you build a fence around the perimeter of the site, you will have to install a lot of supports, so speed will only bring benefits. Certainly. It is better to use an automated drive for the auger.

Homemade drill for TISE piles

This tool is used to make wells with expansion at the bottom

The TISE pile drill fully complies with the technology individual construction and ecology of work, and in domestic conditions, as a rule, it is used for pouring pillars with an expanded base under. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that near the cutting blades there is a folding blade (knife), with the help of which an expansion is formed. If we talk about labor productivity when pouring such foundations, then such tools are simply irreplaceable.

Making an ordinary garden auger at home

Below we will look at how you can make such a design at home, provided that you have a workshop (for many car enthusiasts this is a garage).

Components

The constituent elements from which the entire assembly is made

List of elements:

The cutting parts are two semicircles made of alloy steel, with sharpened edges. Depending on the purpose of the tool, its diameter is also determined. In some cases, semicircular blades are fixed with a bolted connection so that they can be replaced with a different diameter.
The rod is a round or square pipe profile, although sometimes such a part is made from scrap, but this significantly increases the mass and complicates the work process. The length of the rod depends on the need, but most often it is made for pits 50-80 cm long and up to 1.5 m (if this parameter is reduced, you have to constantly work in a bent position). But if one and a half meters is not enough (the depth of the hole is 80-100 cm or more), then it is better to make a prefabricated rod with extendable rods (they can be joined using a nipple).
The crossbar for the handle is welded to the top of the rod in the shape of the letter T, where the optimal length of the crossbar is 25-30 cm in each direction. If you make these levers shorter, then scrolling will be much harder.
The tip is made sharp; it serves as a drill, which centers the blades in relation to the surface of the earth. That is, they will not move to the side, since they are a single unit with the drill.

What materials will you need?

Square pipe profile

To make a rod, as mentioned above, a square or square pipe profile is suitable round section. If the wall of such a profile has a thickness of 2-2.5 mm, then a section of 20×20 mm or ø20 mm is suitable, but if the walls are thinner, then the section should be increased to 30×30 or 35×35 mm, ø30-35 mm. In the event that during work there may be a need to screw on an additional rod, then only a round pipe profile is suitable for the rod.

Flat tip in the form of a lance with central and side sharpening

A sharp tip must be welded to the end of the rod, which can be made from a piece of a thick drill with Pobedit soldering– they are used for drilling concrete with a hammer drill. But you can also make such a point from thick reinforcement or a piece of steel, sharpening it in the form of a flat peak, as in the top photo.

The cutting part is made of a disk for manual circular saw

The most crucial moment is the manufacture of cutting blades and they can be made from:

sheet steel 3-4 mm thick;
saw blade from a grinder (diamond) or a hand-held circular saw.

In this case, it is most convenient to use discs from a diamond-coated grinder, designed for cutting concrete, or from a hand-held circular saw. When the diamond coating is applied, a thin strip of no more than 1 mm remains around the circumference and it is easy to grind it off, making the edges sharp, and the toothed disk from the circular saw can only be cut in half.

For reference. Inner diameter the disk or mounting hole is standard and is 22.5 mm.

And a few more words about the handle - it should be made of a round pipe and in no case should you put any plastic on it, much less wrap it with electrical tape.

Method of fastening knives

Removable bolt-on blades

If it is planned to drill wells of different diameters, then the blades on the tool can be made of a removable type. For this purpose, two shelves are welded to the rod and knives are bolted to them, as shown in the top photo.

The optimal angle of attack is 30-40⁰

If you are not going to change the diameter of the blades, then most best option, this is ø120 mm and for this purpose a saw or trimming disk ø125 mm (5 mm width of diamond coating and it will no longer be) is best suited, which needs to be cut into two semicircles. The ø22.5 mm seat will have to be adjusted to the rod, cutting off the excess by electric welding. For soft soils, the angle of attack is usually 30⁰, and sometimes even 40⁰, but for hard soils it is better to lower it to 22-25⁰.

Components of a garden auger: 1) rod with a point, 2) cutting discs, 3) handle for rotation

Here is a drawing of a homemade garden auger with ø120 mm blades (according to the diameter of the used cutting disc on concrete with diamond coating). Below is a video on how to make such a tool:

Video: Do-it-yourself garden drill in a home workshop

Auger drill

Schematic diagram of the manufacture of an auger drill

Now let's figure out how to make an auger drill for drilling holes for pillars with our own hands. Such a tool does not have to be removed from the hole every 5-10 cm of passage, since the soil dump moves during rotation to the upper blades of the auger. This significantly speeds up the process, but working with it requires a lot of physical strength, so in most cases such installations are used in conjunction with an automated drive.

All disks are clamped in a vice and the same sector is cut out for rotation

Now the most crucial moment: you need to cut out a trapezoidal sector from all the disks folded together, although these inclined ones will intersect in the center, forming an acute angle. The bottom line is that when turning each upper disk, the left edge of the cut sector should coincide with the right edge of the lower one. It is, of course, better to first do such things on paper and if everything matches, transfer the markings for cutting to the metal. The number of screw turns will correspond to the number of disks.

Attention! Do not lose sight of the fact that for docking the lower disk uses the right side of the sector, and the upper one the left. If you do the opposite, you will have to drill counterclockwise.

Now the welding work begins:

place a disk on a plane, and place another one on top of it, but so as to overlap the cut sector, that is, the left edge of the upper one should adjoin the right edge of the lower one;
this joint is welded by electric welding and the next disc is placed on top, acting on the same principle;
This is how all the disks are joined and welded, making a compressed spring out of them.

The compressed spring is stretched using a winch

Finishing welding work, this homemade spring needs to be stretched to form an auger. To do this, the assembly is put on a rod and the lower disk is welded at the desired angle, for example, 30⁰, and something like a ring can be welded to the upper disk so that it hooks onto the winch hook. The rod is fixed on the floor (figure out how to do this yourself - circumstances vary) and the spring is stretched with a winch, after which the upper disk is welded. The rod is released and the entire structure is scalded in a spiral.

Video: Making an auger drill

Drill for TISE piles

Operating principle of the TISE pile drill

The drawing above shows the principle of operation of the TISE pile drill: first it makes a shaft required diameter, and at the bottom the well is expanded using a folding knife. But perhaps I will disappoint you, since in order to make such a design at home, you need, at a minimum, a workshop with tools and professional mechanic skills. To consider such an assembly, you will have to post a separate article, even a small one, but here we will limit ourselves to showing a video on self-assembly of a TISE drill:

Video: Homemade drill for TISE piles at home

Conclusion

From this material you learned how to make a drill for drilling holes for poles with your own hands. You won’t use a drill for TISE piles to install a fence or build a foundation, so for a house an ordinary drill or, if you have something to make a drive from, an auger drill is quite enough.

A mechanical or manual drill is a universal device that helps without extra effort make a hole in the soil of the required diameter. It is useful to use when making recesses for posts or racks for fences, tables and various fastenings. Where can I get such a device? The purchase is just a waste of money, because the drill is easy to assemble with your own hands using ordinary materials and tools. The main thing is to follow all the rules and recommendations when assembling it.

Features of application

The main purpose of using a drill is to help make holes of the required diameter. This is much easier than digging a shapeless hole with a shovel, while spending a colossal amount of time and effort to fill it up at the end of the process.

The drill is useful in such cases as:

These are just the most common types of work for which a drill is used. The peculiarity of this tool lies in its design, which includes a rod, multiple blades or a spiral system, allowing to loosen and retain the earth on them. After this device is completely inserted into the ground by rotation, it is taken out without reverse rotation so that the earth remains on the spiral. The result is a hole of even diameter and the required length.

Unlike industrial type you can make a drill with your own hands collapsible design. That is, for drilling holes, it will be possible to easily select the required diameter and length by simply replacing several parts.

The industrial type of drill is distinguished by the high strength of its parts, the possibility of choosing mechanical types that do not require manual action, but the cost of the equipment is sometimes simply scary, and this is especially true for cases when the drill is needed only for single jobs.

Types of drilling rigs

All drills are divided into several groups depending on the design and type of work. In the private sector, manual and compact equipment is most often found. Basically, all hand-held models with a small diameter and length are used as assistants when making holes for trees or poles.

Mechanical models are used in specialized industrial sectors where work the creation of holes has been put on stream and manual work takes a lot of time and effort. These drills are equipped with engines that run on gasoline or electricity, which significantly increases costs. In addition, to change the diameter and length, you most often have to buy additional adapters and various attachments.

Engine classification

All devices are divided by engine type:

electric;
petrol.

The option with an engine that runs on gasoline is the most common and high-quality. The use of such fuel allows you to reach high power and make holes in hard soils with a large admixture of stones, pebbles or simply compacted and dry earth. A drill with a gasoline engine can be:

manual - compact but low-power device;
The wheeled version is characterized by high power, but a bulky appearance.

Choose which one more option suitable, depending on your goals. For building a fence or planting trees for personal purposes, the manual option is undoubtedly suitable etc. If you want to expand own business in the field of construction or gardening, it is better to purchase a wheeled version, because this way the work will be completed faster with minimal physical effort.

The operation of a drill with a gasoline engine is divided into three stages:

First of all, the engine starts and warms up at idle speed for three minutes.
Then the corresponding button is pressed, which starts the auger, which is pushed into the ground using hydraulic or mechanical pressure.
After passing the required interval, the button to stop the auger operation is pressed.
A hydraulic or mechanical system lifts the soil on the surface of the spiral, without rotation.

When drilling such small wells, people often encounter problems due to hard soil or the presence of large stones, garbage, metal fragments. This significantly increases the load on the tool, deforming it, and does not guarantee that stone or debris will eventually be destroyed by the action of the auger. In such cases, a safety system is activated, turning off the equipment during prolonged or high loads, which can severely deform the auger, hydraulic system or engine.

The electric drill does not have a safety system. Its power is not enough to deform the tool. If it hits a stone or metal object, the auger will spin on it surface without visible problems for myself, but the work in this area will come to an end. A device with a motor, which runs on electricity, is used only as an assistant for drilling wells 1-1.5 meters in loose soil with a minimum amount of stones and debris. This model is more suitable for use in a private home.

In any case, drills that operate using a motor have advantages such as:

ability to work with ice, hard and dry soil;
high speed;
no physical strength required;
possibility of changing nozzles.

The disadvantages of mechanical engines include:

large dimensions and weight;
availability of a power source or fuel;
cash expenses.

Various attachments and blades

As mentioned above, nozzles for industrial models will have to be purchased additionally, and they are expensive. True, the variety of different transitions, blades and attachments is simply enormous. This allows you to make a hole of any depth, diameter and not focus on the hardness of the soil or inclusions inside it.

An auger and disks are the most common attachments that help you easily make a hole.

The screw is characterized by high productivity. Spiral shapes quickly dig even into hard and dry rock, automatically delivering it to the surface, cleaning the wellbore. It is great for preparing space for poles, piles or landscaping. The disadvantages of this nozzle include its small diameter, which does not allow drilling big holes under the foundation. This model is difficult to make with your own hands.

A disk drill is a rod on which metal halves of a sharpened disk are mounted. Disc thickness is about 2 mm and they are located parallel at an angle of 25 degrees. The angle must be maintained so that the discs can easily stick into the ground and bring it to the surface. Due to this principle of operation, a disk drill can make holes of any diameter and depth.

Industrial and garden drills

A hand drill differs from mechanical models only in the absence of a motor that sets the movement. This type works from the physical strength of a person who rotates the handle and puts the tool into action. By the way, the hand model tool is an auger or disk rod. That is, there is nothing new in the design, except that you have to apply your own strength.

To more in complex ways drilling include:

Shock-rope method used more for drilling deep wells in the construction industry. This is a kind of pipe mounted on a tripod, which is dropped into the well and, under its own weight, enters the soil layer. Thanks to its high speed and mass, it is possible to reach a small amount of soil. This type of work requires experience and patience.
Chisel bit is somewhat reminiscent of the shock-rope method, only here the tool is rotated slightly after falling to secure the soil in the pipe.
Coronal method drilling is a pipe with an installed crown. Depending on the strength, metal and destructive material on the teeth of the bit, it depends on how quickly it can pass through strong rocks. In practice, with the help of diamond crowns, it is possible to destroy even granite layers.
Spoon method drilling is more suitable for clayey or waterlogged rocks. The spoon is a tube with curved edges at the end. In the middle of the end of the pipe, the curved edges turn into a spiral. It is lowered to the bottom of the well and rotates, scooping up soil and securing it in the walls of the pipe. In this simple way, small, narrow, but very even and deep wells are drilled.

All these techniques are used in the manufacture of a hand drill. Such a tool can be made with your own hands by a mechanic, welder, or even a person with little work experience.

Assembly at home

Before you begin assembling a manual drill pit, you should select the type of structure. They are already starting from this, collecting the necessary material and equipment. The most popular homemade drill is a device shaped like the letter “t”. It is made by joining vertical rod with a short piece of horizontal rod. Next, you should select the type of drilling structure.

Disc type is simple design, which does not require special equipment. This option has good penetration ability even dry soil. In addition, unlike an auger, it is easy to replace discs and thereby increase or decrease the drilling diameter.

To assemble the disk rod, you will need the following materials and tools:

fittings about 40 cm long and 1.5 for making a handle and rod;
worn circular saw blades about 2-3 mm thick;
drill with a diameter of 15 mm;
grinder and cutting wheels;
hammer;
welding machine;
sandpaper.

The entire cycle of making a drill hole with your own hands is divided into several stages:

Making an auger drill

It’s difficult to make a manual auger drill with your own hands, but if you follow step-by-step instructions and apply maximum patience and everything will work out. There are several stages of assembly:

A hole is cut in circular disks equal to the diameter of the rod.
The discs are not cut, but unbent in such a way as to form a kind of spiral.
Required amount The spirals are installed one after another on the rod and thus a screw device is obtained.
A drill is used as a chisel for installation on drilled drill holes.

Unlike the disk model, when making the auger you will have to suffer for some time, but in the end everything will work out.

Making brownies with your own hands is easy and simple. This device will be a great help in the household and will save money. cash, time and effort. By assembling this device yourself, it is easy to make the required diameter and length without purchasing additional adapters. The main thing during assembly is to observe safety precautions and follow necessary recommendations to make high-quality and durable equipment.

A hard-working person always has a lot to do, both at home, in the workshop, and in the garden. But you never know where a completely simple device may be needed - a modern embodiment in metal of the “Archimedean screw” principle!

Of course, like many other things, the designated tool, even on a gasoline engine, can today be bought in a specialized store. But for a real master who also knows how to count his money, there is no problem in how to make a drill with your own hands.

It is enough to assemble this device of high quality and easy to use in order to understand how much the horizon of possibilities of a person who wants to make his living space as comfortable and functional as possible will expand.

Hand drill for earth, its design and purpose

As already mentioned, a drill is perhaps the simplest mechanism that converts a person’s muscular effort or engine impulse (if we are talking about a motorized version) into a rotational-translational movement of a large “drill” (Fig. 1).

The simplicity and reliability of this device is emphasized by the minimal number of its components.

Picture 1. Earth drill- a device designed for drilling holes in the ground.

If you do not take into account some additional details, then conceptually it consists of only three elements - a metal (sometimes wooden, which is worse) pole (stand) or pipe attached to it at one end of the auger and a rotary handle (lever) attached to the other sides.

The auger, which forms a classic Archimedes screw, can have a number of additional blades for improved penetration of a particular soil mass, and the handle-lever can be made in the form of a T-shaped crossbar, a cross-shaped design, or in any other form that seems most acceptable to the customer For efficient work with a drill.

This device is widely used in geological exploration and construction work, in gardening and during men's leisure, which is winter ice fishing. It will be very helpful for a person who needs to dig several planting holes in the garden, make drainage wells in the yard, make a number of recesses for mounting piles, etc.

Depending on these and other purposes for using the tool, all drills may differ from each other in size and have different configurations auger However, they all operate on the same principle.

Materials and tools required for making a drill

Before you start working directly, you should stock up on everything necessary materials and tools. The master will need:

line segment gas pipe(for making a vertical stand);
sheet steel fragment high strength(for the production of propeller blades);
a piece of smooth reinforcement (metal rod) with a diameter of 16-20 mm (for making a handle);
welding machine;
welding clamp;
lathe;
emery wheel;
electric drill;
set of metal drills;
angle grinder (grinder) with a metal disc;
gas key;
assembly vice.

How to make a drill: sequence of operations

The manufacture of a drill (Fig. 2) begins with the production of its blade. For this purpose, a steel sheet is taken from which round blanks are cut. They are made in such a way that the diameter of the circle is approximately 5-6 mm larger than the diameter of the planned hole in the ground. Enough for a standard drill minimum quantity in 2 disks.

Figure 2. Drawing of an earth drill.

Then the central holes are drilled in the round blanks. For convenient mounting on a rack, their diameter must exceed the diameter metal pipe– future rack – by about 1-2 mm.

On next stage The points at which the disks will be attached to the rack are indicated. Holes should be drilled in the pipe at these points. For mounting disks on lathe metal bushings are manufactured. They also have radial threaded holes. Bushings bolted to the post will attach the removable auger blades to it.

Next, using a grinder with a cutting wheel, small sectors are cut from the edge to the center in the blade blanks. After this, using a vice and gas wrenches, the edges of the cuts are carefully stretched in opposite directions. As a result, each circle should have a spiral appearance. To complete the preparation stage of the blades, the lower edges of their cutouts are sharpened at an angle of 50-60 degrees.

Let's move on to the counter. So that the drill can easily enter the processed mass, a metal drill is welded at its end, where the auger will be formed. For this purpose, the tip itself is sharpened at a sharpening angle of 20-30 degrees.

The final phase of manufacturing a hand drill is the installation of a handle-lever, which will carry out axial rotation of the entire device. To fix it on the stand, a special bushing is used, previously turned on a lathe. The handle should be removable, since when drilling to great depths, you will probably need to extend the stand more than once with additional elbows. The manufacture of these elbows should be taken care of separately.

DIY drill: other design options

Figure 3. A - diagram of a drill with an auger from a recycled combine harvester, B - diagram of a drill with a pan-shaped container, C - diagram of a drill with auger blades from used disks.

Along with the described standard drill, we can offer some other options for manufacturing a hand-held drilling device, which use elements of well-known designs that have already been in use.

In particular, you can make a drill that uses an auger that was once installed on a recycled grain harvester (Fig. 3, a). At the bottom of the auger, the diameter of which is approximately 130-150 mm, an auxiliary blade made up of two old cultivator paws is mounted near the end of the stand. They should be welded to the stand so that the angle between them and the plane perpendicular to the axis racks was 25-30 degrees.

It is possible to make a drill using a container shaped like a pan (Fig. 3, b). This element is attached to the stand through a hole drilled in the center of the bottom of the container. The stand at the bottom ends with a drill with a diameter of up to 25-30 mm. Two knives are attached to the container body on opposite sides. In front of both knives, slots up to 40 mm wide are made in the bottom of the pan - through them, when the drill rotates, waste soil will flow into the container and accumulate there. When the container is filled, the drill is removed from the recess, the contents are poured out and lowered into the well again.

The third option, the simplest, is a drill, the auger blades of which will be used disks, previously cut into two equal hemispheres (Fig. 3, c). These parts are welded to a metal stand at their central point. Moreover, improvised blades must be attached to the stand in the same place, at a distance of at least 900 mm from the lever handle.

To give these semicircles the properties of an effective drill screw, their planes must be inclined in directions opposite to each other, and the angle between both planes is set to at least 30 degrees. This option, despite all its simplicity, is distinguished by a very high operating efficiency - such a drill can drill a meter-long well with a diameter of about 15 cm in 10 minutes.

A few points to consider when making a drill

To make a drill not only high-quality, but also practical in the widest possible range of applications, a clear understanding of a number of important factors and following the appropriate recommendations will help. In conclusion, they deserve special attention.

For example, when producing a universal hand drill, which can be used to perform operations of various purposes and volumes, it is recommended to ensure that the auger blades are not tightly welded to the stand, but are removable. This circumstance, as well as the presence of a whole set of round blades of different diameters and configurations, will certainly make this tool a truly multifunctional device, useful in many cases in life.

It is known from practice that 9- and 12-centimeter drill blades are best suited for drilling holes for fertilizing and planting seedlings, wells for determining the level groundwater, holes for the installation of greenhouses and installation of tunnels for underground communications. Blades with a diameter of 17 and 25 cm, the best way will satisfy those who plant plants with tap roots, fill the supports of all kinds of fences, fences and other small outbuildings, arrange compost pits, builds wells.